I had a 2012 Charger 5.7 hemi. After buying it I heard and read hundreds of stories about how the engine would rattle, eat cams, lifters oil pumps. I changed the oil every 6,000 miles using 5-20 synthetic Pennzoil. I used the Wix oil filter every change. Unfortunately the car was totaled by another vehicle. It had 176,488 miles on it. The quietest engine I ever had. No rattling, knocking or oil consumption issues. I did the changes myself! Trust issues. You maintain them and they will last.
The gen III hemi gets a bad rap for all those top-end problems. It's a big engine that makes a lot of heat. If you always drove it like you stole it, it will fall apart in 120,000 miles. But if you take care of it, use a high quality oil and change it every 5-6k, and watch oil temps and back off if they start to get too high (much over about 240 f), no reason why it couldn't last 200-250k. Thing is, if you weren't original owner, you never truly know the history. Recommended interval is 8k, and dealers usually don't use full synthetic even if they claim they do. They use use whatever they can buy a drum of for the lowest price. Can't even be sure it's the right viscosity.
Personally, I am in the same boat where I change all my own oil and I only use top shelf oil every single time and I typically change between 5 and 6,000 miles. And overall, while sending my oil samples to Blackstone Labs once per year, all of my engines are in great condition, over 100,000 miles.
@@Jimster481same here! I change my oil 4X per year. In the Spring and Fall, I may use the Wal Mart oil as the ambient temps are more moderate. But during Summer and Winter, I’ll use the top shelf oils and filters just because they hold up better in extreme temperatures.
Regardless of whether changing the oil more frequent makes the engine last longer ...it still get s somebody under the hood more often to check things, because the average custemer today just turns the key and drives it...
Many people come in for 10K oil changes on many of these newer vehicles that use a quart of oil every 2K-3K miles. Guess how much oil is in the vehicle when the tech sees it? VVT on many cars works on oil pressure. Timing chain tensioners work off of oil pressure. It's no wonder that engines are dying so much more than in the past.
@@dmitripogosian5084No, vehicles have to be maintained heavily unless you want to be spending $15,000 a year to buy a new car or fix the one you screwed up.
I agree 100%. I usually go half of the factory recommended mileage. The car I have now now is 10,000, I go 5,000. I consider the extra cost of the oil will be far less than the repairs you will do otherwise.
Old timey Automotive/SAE Mech. Engr ... who also did 'tribology' - lubrication science. My personal Rx: 1. If 90% steady-state (cruise control) ... highway speed driving - change the oil AT, or before, the OEM Mfg. change recommendation. If predominantly at 'city' or Stop and Go driving ... change the oil at HALF the recomended CHANGE INTERVAL . Maximum intervals vs. 'time' is ~9 months regardless of mileage. --- all for (older) engines with 'normal' piston ring tensions. 2. For engines (~2010 onwards - with loose OEM piston rings !!!) .... Steady-state highway speeds change @ ~75% of recommended miles interval. For City - stop and go ... change @ HALF the changeout interval. .... To help prevent carbon build up in the piston ring grooves that result in a high propensity to 'stuck rings'; thus, premature cylinder wall wear. I normally get 200-300 miles from my engines. Reason; changing the oil is MUCH MUCH cheaper than a new vehicle or even an engine 'rebuild'. OIl Filters ... My preference, based on actual testing, remains WIX. (havent tested the Chinese made WIX; so, I will remain 'doubtful about the Chinese made WIX.). USA, EU and Japanese oil filters are historically consistent; others can be variable in meeting 'spec' - IMO. Caution: always check the µM (micrometer/ 'micron') removal rating and 'effective surface area' of the filter .... NEVER EVER EVER use a filter with a 'smaller' µM particle retention (OEM spec.) .... as such will have 'significantly' REDUCED 'recirculation' oil flow rate and thus the engine will risk to be 'starved' from the designed 'recirculating' oil rate !!!!! The 'faster' the oil flow rate, the FASTER the particulate (and HEAT) REMOVAL !!! OK (preferable) to use a filter with expanded 'effective filtration surface area' .... allows MORE and 'faster' particle removal, especially if you're an 'aggressive' driver who likes to 'accelerate'.
@@richh1576 smaller than what specification ?: "NEVER EVER EVER use a filter with a 'smaller' µM particle retention (OEM spec.) ...." ??? almost all mainstream filters are apparently within the typical range of 20 to 30. So this seems to be a total non issue, no?
@@richh1576not true. Oil basically doesn’t degrade from time, at least to a point. It’s been proven oil with the same miles but one that had 2 years on it as opposed to 6 months tested to be virtually exactly the same.
@@JS-tr7oo what? You are telling me synthetic oil isn’t much better than conventional oil? 🤦♂️🤦♂️. Sold you a lie? So just because you change the oil more often ur engine AND tranny is guaranteed to last 500k miles right? You have a junk box that went to almost 200k miles. That’s way past normal. And maybe read the service book where is says “recommended service times”. Then read where is says under certain conditions. 🤦♂️🤦♂️. You sound slow and refuse to take responsibility for ur own actions. No way you are an adult.
My 2007 Toyota Camry has over 411,000 miles on it. Always changed oil and filter every 5,000 miles and haven’t ever changed the transmission oil. It’s my daily driver putting 600 miles a week on it. Still going strong and might use half quart of oil between oil changes. Best car I’ve ever owned.
Why didn't you ever change the transmission fluid? With all the heat that transmission experience, I would think someone like yoursel - who religiously changes their engine oil - would also do the same for the transmission (every 30 - 50 thousand miles).
Yeah Toyota's can go the distance. I've had several, for example I had an 1993 Toyota Corolla with the old 4AFE engine, that one had over 500k when I sold it (still running and driving great). I had a 2000 Corolla with the 1ZZ-FE engine, I had to rebuild the engine in that one at 200k because of excessive oil burning due to bad rings though, but it had over 550k miles when I sold it (it also ran and drove great still). I did do regular fluid service on the transmissions though. I also had an old school Geo Prism with over 400k miles on it. I delivered pizza full time for over 15 years, so I racked up a huge amount of miles. Even now I prefer older Japanese cars, I have a 98 Accord with the 2.3L F23A1 that I've converted to a 5 speed manual. Just did a full rebuild on that one at 245k miles, but I love those engines.
Personally, I don't agree with the 7K interval. I have 4 Toyotas to maintain, I change the oil in them every 4,000 miles. That may be a bit early, but I go by the belief that oil and filters are relatively cheap, engines are not.
The Car Care Nut, a Toyota Master Mechanic, recommends 5K mile oil changes on all Toyotas, as opposed to 10K miles. I'm sure he would be pleased with 4K intervals. After all, sometimes we are in the middle of a long unplanned trip when the oil change comes due. Better to be a little early most of the time (after all, it is not like there are magic things at each 1000 mile mark).
@@flagmichael Exactly. I have a friend who has a Expedition with the twin turbo v6, I changed their oil before they went on a trip to Florida. I told them with the twin turbos, i would change that oil religiously at 3k because of the turbos. Even one turbo failure is more than $3,000 so changing the oil is cheap insurance. When they came back from Florida, he called me and said he was quite surprised that it was already at 3k miles, it had been one month.
4K? Factory says mine should be changed every 20K miles. Seems like a long time to me but my Blackstone Labs test came back fine. How have your oil tests come back?
I've been servicing my own cars for 20 years and stuck to the manufacturers recommended intervals and all my vehicles have hit 150k + miles while not having any drivetrain issues. I live in the rust belt so everything else breaks down before the engine/trans did.
I agree. Proper oil, wix filter every 5000. It’s not a guarantee on the motor but it’s the cheapest and easiest action we can take to get a good long lasting outcome.
full synth, better than all the rest? that's what I use but didn't hear the recommendation on this video, did I just miss it or do we simply pull the owner's manual out and go strictly by that even if it doesn't mention full synthetic oil?
I'm from Spain and last weekend did my Audi A7 3.0 TDI oil service. Manufacturer sais to do It every one year or 15k kms (9k miles) un fix intervals or 30k kms (18k miles) un longlife intervals. I do it every year and this year, with only 4k miles. Using Mann filter and Amsoil 5w30 LS European Car Formula. If You're take Care of your Car, your Car will take care of you and your pocket
Be careful to ensure the 'Amsoil 5w30 LS European Car Formula' oil meets the manufacturer's requirements for your TDI Diesel. My understanding is diesel rated oils are different in their additive package (more detergents) and using an oil designed for gas engines is not the best way to go, even if you change the oil more frequently...
My personal experience is that investing in frequent oil changes does not influence how much your car ultimately costs you in repairs: it will be the non-oil related failures that will likely cost you and make you consider renewing your vehicle.
I am 71. Yeah, old. I get it. I change my oil every six months. I buy the cheapest oil on sale. I sometimes buy more than I need if the price is really low. I been doing this for going on 55 years now. I am old. All my engines runs great. With the money I save, I take my honey out for a movie and a meal. Sometimes I take my wife!😅
Good on you! It sucks seeing more and more people paying out the tuchus for services they can do themselves. My pops (68) is much the same way. Luckily, I am in the business, so I do all of his maintenance for him now.
I'm a non-pro DIY'er and I believe 5,000 is the absolute max I'll go on my fleet of about 12 cars (Family included). I do believe in high quality oil and filters as well, WIX is great and I also go to the dealer for OEM filters.I don't care what anyone else does, but I don't want gunk building in my family and friends engines. I want them to last 300, 000 or more miles, and they do. Thanks
@@micker9830Happens all the time. Tiny oil passages gunk up and clog or slow oiling. Takes out a critical system. Even Toyotas. People who only drive short trips and go with long intervals are in for a surprise.
@@briancoleman971especially the VVT solenoids they clog fairly easy. I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. The rest of the country refers to us as “Winterpeg.” December and January, overnight lows of -30 to -40 C. July and August, summer highs of +30 to +35 C, and very humid. In this climate, if you change your oil only twice a year or every 8,000km, the engine will make it through warranty and not much longer. Especially stop and go driving. I personally change my own oil and filter every 3 months or 6,000km, whichever comes first. For my Focus, I run Mobil 1 5W-20 in warmer weather. For winter, Mobil 1 0W-20. Ford recommends a 0W-20 if ambient low temps are -30 C or colder.
Bottom line. If you maintain your engine and keep clean oil in it chances are that you will not have problems with it. Unless there is a manufacturer defect in it. You should be fine. My late father always said “ do your oil changes and keep your engine oil clean and you will not have problems.” I have owned many cars in the past 40 years and have never had a major mechanical problem or blown an engine. And most of my cars and trucks went well over 100,000 miles. That’s my story. Thanks you for your video.
Love the thorough work that you perform on autos. I was changing my own oil back in the 70s on my Dodge Dart. The pandemic brought me back. Yes, I buy Wix filters for my cars and my riding lawnmower. I went to full synthetic during the pandemic.
I prescribe to the 5k / 6months on full synthetic. I do this work for a living and see what happens to engines day in and day out for people who try and extend the oil service interval. I might enjoy putting motors in other peoples vehicles, but not mine!
@@chodkowski01 yeah definitely smart. I have an old truck that I put about that mileage on, I actually do it every year and intentionally drive it on long trips to keep the oil from being diluted. But the logic is that its a 99 dakota, putting 1k miles on it a year it is going to last longer then the parts availability! Which when you can no longer find parts for a vehicle you might as well junk it. If you garage keep your car with that mileage I wouldn't think its a big deal to go the full year on full synthetic either. My parents have a 12 accord with the original Michelin defenders on them. they are 11 year old tires with no sidewall cracks and 50k miles on them. You would be surprised how much a difference garage keeping a vehicle makes. The oil age is definitely very subjective depending on climate and if the car is garaged or out in the elements. But definitely not the mileage!
I recently started working on vehicles that aren’t mine, and absolutely love it. My main frustrations working on cars came from working on my own vehicle. Probably because at the time I didn’t have access to a second vehicle, so until the job was done I had nothing to drive.
Here’s part of the ton of replies you predicted. I totally agree with you. Top quality, and top quality oil. One point you didn’t touch in, was turbocharged engines. They seem to be harder on oil, and should have oil changes done more frequently than for non-turbo engines. The turbo chargers stress the oil, mainly with heat. The Oil-Life Monitor on my 2.7L V6 Edge requests oil,changes at about the 5,000 interval. I comply with full synthetic oil.
💯 % agree. Honest, educated, professional video. Thanks more making it for the uniformed. Not only for longevity but for reliability while you own/drive it also
I'm relatively new to the channel but am already completely "hooked" on your business model/approach. So much respect for your steadfast commitment to doing the right thing......quality, quality, quality. Although I'm just an amateur wrench turner, I absolutely LOVE doing the general maintenance on my vehicle and am a total nerd about oil and oil filter quality issues. I currently own a 2022 VW Jetta GLI with the 2.0 I4 turbo and the 7-speed DSG trans. As many others, VW recommends oil service at every 10k miles. I choose to change it every 5k with Ravenol 0w-20 full synthetic combined with a Hengst oil filter. So far, everything is problem free and running like silk......and with no oil loss/consumption between changes. Thanks for posting everything you do.....I appreciate your time and efforts with everything. Never compromise.
I love the straight talk - it's worth a subscription. I have a 2014 Prius with 186K miles and no measurable oil consumption between oil changes. We bought it used; I just used the oil change reminder built into the car. Every 5K miles it says to service the oil. Then I read the warranty / service booklet, where it says 10K miles. Huh. So, I reset the oil reminder and started on the second 5K. I made it about 1K miles before I saw a Car Care Nut (Toyota Master Tech) video in which he warned about oil consumption problems associated with cylinder scuffing with 10K mile oil change intervals. I changed the oil right away, I tell you what! I change the oil myself; affordable enough after buying the steel oil filter tool from Toyota - about $75 - to get the filter housing off. I agree it is a matter of the use and vehicle; 5K for mine. EDIT - I almost forgot: I get the filters from Toyota: $6. I'm sure Wix is great, but we are seeing a flood of counterfeit auto parts. Don't bet any higher end parts at auto parts stores are genuine. The stores are honest, but the supply chain can have a lot of vulnerabilities on it. In particular, every major auto parts chain has had problems with counterfeit NGK and Bosch iridium plugs. Some are toast after 15K miles. Dealer supply chains are more direct and probably better vetted. I hope.
Many newer car models are now turbocharged. These turbos spin at 80k to 100k rpm. The turbo's bearings are lubricated using the same oil from the car's engine. You don't need a crystal ball to predict what will be happening in the future when customers follow extended oil change intervals.
Many newer vehicles have turbos with water-cooling around their bearings. Not as much of an issue as it used to be. You rarely hear of newer turbos failing because of carbon build-up in their bearings.
A lot of the time it’s not the bearings, it’s the tiny oil feed line that clogs, cracks me up as an engineer, how people think “modern “ engines somehow defy physics, a modern engine was engineered to last the power train warranty period, that exact how it was engineered, and exactly what the engineers were paid to accomplish.
@@chippsterstephens6800 And yet, there are many 'modern' vehicles on the road today which exceed the manufacturer's warranty by many hundreds of thousands of miles. I have direct experience of this. Your claim isn't credible in the least.
Australia here and our 2013 Hyundai i30 Premium 1.6 CRDi diesel turbo (Hyundai use Garret) and now after 445,000KM's (276,000 miles) later it has never had a single mechanical issue, is still on it's original double row timing chains and tensioners, uses no oil nor makes extra oil between changes done every 15,000KM's (9,320 miles), has not required an inlet manifold or valve clean (inspected at 200,000 KM's and just recently at 443,000KM's) and the valves are light volcanic ash colour with zero carbon buildup. The car still gets 40mpg/city and 60mpg/highway and it pulls like a freight train. Engine is very smooth, quiet and a joy to own. Cheers. @clean6903
Great discussion Wiz. Fully agree that these intervals are ridiculous. I sat in on a GDI class this weekend that talked manufacturer credits toward their epa scores based on cost of maintenance. By having further in-between intervals the "cost" of maintenance is lower so they can get more credits for not X amount of mpg's required by EPA
@@retiredsnowbunnyhunterx5106 Why would a GDI engine change the oil change interval? They have high pressure fuel lines, a different injector, and intake valve carbon issues, but pretty much the same otherwise aren't they?
@@theredscourge Correct you are about that. There particular GDI engines that do not like dirty oil. Will stretch the timing chain. So far I haven't seen anyone not lose oil cause of leaks due to failing to change PCv valve and having to install a catch can.
I live in the UK my work van only gets a oil change every 21k miles wouldn't want to be the next owner.I service all my VW vehicles at 9k found hengst filters to be very good BMW OE .
You are 1000% right. My wife has a 2023 RAV4, I change the oil and filter every 5000 miles Full Syn. I have a 2003 ford f-150 supercrew 4x4 only 120,000 miles bought new. Drive it 16 miles around time to work. Change oil every 3,000 miles multi-syn.
I built a Chevy 350 engine 36 years ago. It has hundreds of thousands of hard miles on it today and still works perfect. I change the oil once a year and use Mobile One synthetic.
I agree with your recommendations. I do my own Oil changes at 5K with full synthetic with Trans fluid changes at 40K and my Toyota & Mazda vehicles last over 250K miles.
Great discussion on oil service frequency. I have a 2015 4Runner (69k miles) and 2019 Avalon Hybrid (39k miles) and use Mobil 1. Both maintenance schedules say every 10k miles. I change every 5k miles. Both uses zero oil between changes. I’ll keep doing what I do, and I’ll keep both vehicles until “the wheels off” (or thereabouts, lol)!
My 2015 4Runner has 170k miles and has had 5k oil changes with Mobil 1 since new. Uses no oil and has never been to the dealer. Figure it will last another 170k with proper servicing.
Same, 5k intervals on our 2022 4Runner and 2022 Tundra. My service advisor stopped reminding me I only need to do oil changes every 10k after the 3rd service.
I do 3500 mile service intervals high mileage Mobil 1 (because it has seal conditioners) 2007 4Runner. Have 295k miles. Doesn’t burn a drop of oil! Your cars will last forever. Change your oil just like you are doing.
You speak absolute truth. The recommended service intervals are the bare minimum to get the car over the warranty period w/o any trouble. If you want the car to last you need to get more aggressive with the maintenance. For many manual transmissions they don't even recommend changing the fluid in them. They are lubricated "for life". That life is probably 10years/60000mi. The fluid that came out of my gearbox at 30000mi was absolutely disgusting.
This is the kind of shop we all wish we had around the corner from our homes! Great information! Caters to his customers based on their individual needs! Honest and up front without all the BS!... and uses quality parts, period! I just had the oil change interval conversation with a friend of mine whom just purchased a 2018 Toyota RAV4 with only 15,000 miles. She mentioned that the oil changes are every 10,000 miles, but I know that she keeps her vehicles until the wheels fall off, so I told her to make sure to do it every 5000 miles and to make sure they are using a good quality filter! I reminded her of when I had my 2008 BMW 335i which recommended oil changes every 15,000 miles! I know... I know... I didn't know then what I know now! I started having issues with the car about 3000 miles after the warranty expired, to the point where I simply got rid of the car. Thank you for posting videos like this. Keep it up my friend!
I love your perspective regarding the manufacturers and your own place in the arena you work in. As a scientist I'm concerned about the chemistry and the specifications, not the brands or marketing. I'll choose a full synthetic oil, but I'll get it from Costco or wherever is least expensive. But I'll change the fluids in that car at one half the manufacturer's intervals. Fluids are inexpensive, cars are not.
It seems that your "mellan service" is intended as an intermediate service between regularly scheduled service intervals. Here in the US, our manuals usually refer to this as "severe service." So yes, essentially the same.@@markwarnberg9504
As an engineer, that's EXACTLY what I do w/ respect to oil selection. I run Walmart's and Costco's, and no issues whatsoever. Multiple videos online demonstrate both are in fact good oils.
As a fellow Engineer, I get slightly offended when people try to make these anecdotal arguments. It completely ignores the most difficult variable to plan for; the average consumer. And people don't seem to understand that. Of COURSE you see engines blowing up if the owner says they "did their maintenance at regular intervals.".....and that would be because no one sticks to the regular intervals. People are busy, they have work, they have kids, they don't have a second car and cannot afford to have one down for any given amount of time, they're broke, whatever. But there's always something where they stretch out the maintenance or forget or they haul without telling their tech or they try to ford a river, whatever. Life happens and mechanicals suffer.
I have an 1989 F150 that I owned for over 30 years. I used synthetic and changed oil between 3000 and 5000. I recently took the motor out and planned on rebuilding it to put in another vehicle. When I third into it and even the factory original cross hatching that they did to seat the rings was still visible. I just put the motor back together put it in another rig and am driving it today. It has to have nearly 300,000 miles, like new compression, uses no oil and runs fine. Oil is pretty cheap if you figure the cost per mile and is excellent insurance. Plus it is very easy to do yourself. Used to be if you used a quart every 1000 miles, it was time for a ring job
Mine got 250k km on it, changed oil every 15k miles. Still has the honing on it (cross hatch you mentioned) You can also change your oil evry 1k miles the result will be the same. You don´t need to change it 4x a year, that´s silly.
I use Walmart SuperTech 0-20 in my 5th gen 4runner and I change it every 3000 miles! Project Farm tested many oils, and SuperTech was right at the top for performance! It costs around half of the other "brand name oils" so 3000 miles is economically reasonable!! Cheap insurance!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Corolla Hybrid SE AWD - 4 month intervals / Calgary, AB Mobil 1 OW-16 + Toyota Filter January, February, March, April May, June, July, August Sept, Oct, November, December 5,000 kilometers = 3,125 miles ✅ 6,000 kilometers = 3,750 miles ✅ 7,000 kilometers = 4,375 miles ✅ 8,000 kilometers = 5,000 miles ✅
Im partial to Mobile1 synthetic 0w20 from Walmart 😂 and change my 2020 4Runner every 5k miles. I saw his video in that too and learned a ton of things about oil and additive packages. Also learned that synthetic oil doesn't need changing annually, it can be done at 5k -7k with no major issues. My 4runner only has 13,800 miles and dont drive it much. Watching his video on under using the synthetic oil was nothing but a wast because it still had life left.
Late to this video but it was great. One thing no one has commented on is engine IDLE hours. 1 hohr of idling equals 30 miles of driving. Thats why when I set up oil intervals on our fleet vehicles and my own its 5,000 miles 250 hours or 3 months. No exceptions. Never lost an engine and I overseen over 800 pieces of equipment on and off road. Good oil, filters, and intervals you will not go wrong. Love what you do and respect your values!
I personally think it’s engine dependent. The ford f150 5.0 is a normally aspirated engine with close to 9qt oil capacity. I would be comfortable going 7,500-10,000 miles with full synthetic. On my Raptor I have a 3.5 eco boost with a 6qt capacity. I change the oil every 3,000 miles with AMSOIL 100% synthetic. I know that’s probably a waste of money but that’s what I like to do. I just feel a twin turbo engine with a smaller oil capacity should have the oil changed sooner than a NA V8 with a large capacity oil capacity.
I watched an autopsy of that engine and the one thing that kills them is oil starvation to the turbos. The RUclips channel is called I Do Cars. There are two cigarette shaped filters that are in the block that feed oil to the turbos. When those get clogged it kills the turbos. I think you are on the right track short of changing those filters out.
of course! The problem is 100%, "what get washed down into the crankcase" and turns into an acid /steam(condensation, which will then circulate up thru the internals(gaskets & seals) thru PCV and bypass ALL the essential filtration systems of ANY ICE. Change the oil 4K and use a oil catch can/filter on every ICE! Thank Me later!,,, Military Mechanic
Great reasoning.! Also don't forget are your trips short or LOOONG ? Highway miles are easier due to steady state. I've had tremendous results using Supertech Full Synthetic oil or Mobil 1 alternatively, with Supertech filters / Fram Ultra In my Regal TourX 2.0 Turbo (6 qt sump) & Mercedes ML500 (V8 w 9qt sump) SUV + e320 wagon (V6 w 9qt sump) Go about 7,000 miles in both & change to new filter at 3,500 halfway there ! Synthetics are uber durable as long as kept clean & filtered. Both Amsoil & Mobil have lab bench tested their Synthetics for 100k continuous running miles & found almost no degradation of viscosity #s. So, were ok to extend things a bit IF using top quality lube & filters.
This. My Alfa Romeo is a 1.4 litre turbo they’re getting 125 kilowatts from it, so it’s fairly highly strung. It also has the dump pipe running right against the sump, and it only has 3.8 litres of oil!! The oil is hot and hard working! It gets 7500km oil - half the recommended 15K kms interval.
I do oil changes every 3-4K miles, but try to stay as close to 3K as possible. OEM filters, and using SuperTech Full Synthetic. This is what works for me! 13 RDX and 21 4Runner!
I also agree.. If the cheaper filter meets manufacturers requirements you are going to be safe. The sieve rate and filter media are pre designed to do the job .However, I believe they are designed for reduced oil change rates, and not for extended oil changes such as 7500 miles plus.. I am a believer that oil life expectancy is 3000-4500 miles in varied climates and should be changed accordingly if you want to keep your vehicle a long time.If done in this fashion most oil filters will be fine if they meet manufacturers specifications at time of purchase.I would not expect them to be fine after 4500 miles however.
I have a Nissan frontier got it new try to do as close to 3k As possible went to almost 4 . Oil is still golden a little darker than new. I bought a used Ford Transit with a 100000 not sure how often it got oil changes before me oil with a couple hundred miles was getting dark. I did a epr flush the oil didn't seem that dark I put in pensoil synthetic it's much darker than than my frontier at 3000 and it only has 2000. I don't know if it's blow by I might do another flush and a 2000 mile change it runs good no issues there. Maybe I should just leave well enough alone
I live in Las Vegas. No snow, salt or even rain. I change oil every 3000 to keep the inside of the engine clean. My cars last virtually forever. Valvoline synthetic and a Wix filter. 10,000 mile changes are CRAZY.
Switch to AMSOIL, you’ll be able your 5070 500 miles, I had a Toyota Prius yeah I know I drove all the lot of city and I tested my oil they said I can go to 17 five on a oil change however I still changed it every 7500 miles
@@halftontimrvreviewsandtips3106 I did a test with Blackstone. Amsoil, Pennzoil Synthetic Ultra (made from natural gas) and Valvoline Synthetic High Mile and Mobile One. I ran each oil 5000 miles, number one was Valvoline. Best numbers, two was Pennzoil Ultra, then Amzoil, then Mobile One. Amsoil was very good, they were all very good, but Valvoline was the clear winner. Had the most additives left, best wear numbers.
I watch a YT channel that is primarily a guy tearing down engines that have failed young. Most of them are due to oil issues. He shows all the bearings, VVT components, turbos, etc. Those vids opened my eyes. I trust your advice and have become a loyal watcher.
Great honest video! I’m the owner of a 04 Dodge Dakota with the 3.7 liter V-6 that I bought new with 4 miles on it. I do all my maintenance on and she’s pushing 288k miles now. It doesn’t smoke or use any oil at all. I’ve put this truck through it’s paces and it’s been the most reliable truck I’ve ever owned! My parents just bought a new Toyota suv and my dad was telling about the oil service being around 7000 miles and I told him no way in hell I would drive that many miles before a oil change , 5000 max and hopefully he’ll take my advice!
Great advice! Some ideas to lengthen engine life: Take it easy for the first 5 minutes of each drive. Avoid short run times where the engine never reaches full operating temperature. But once the engine is hot, and the trans has shifted thru all the gears, OPEN IT UP to full throttle a few times every driving trip. And obviously, never let the oil level get too low. Good luck!
I change my oil every 4000 miles with full synthetic oil , been doing that on my 2 vehicles one car is 15 years and the other 9 years both bought new. Oil is cheap engines are not!
-First oil change @ 1000 miles. Then, at 5k odometer miles, and every 5k miles afterward. (More for severe usage). -Oem recommend viscosity in winter, one step up on the W viscosity in summer. (More film strength, due to less viscosity modifiers). -Oil filters are genuine OEM. Or a known quality brand, provided it has the correct bypass valve psi. for that engine. - Transmission at 5k miles. Then, at 50k odometer miles and ever 50k miles afterward. (More for severe usage). Differentials & Transfer Cases, same as Transmission. - Power steering every 100k. -Coolant & Hoses, every 100k. -Belts, every 100k-125k -Spark plugs, every 100k-125k. -Brake fluid every 5 years or so.
I bought my first new car in 1990. It was 1990 Pontiac Grand Am with a 2.3 liter Quad4 engine. I drove it off the dealer lot with 4 miles on it. It came with conventional oil and I did first oil change at 500 miles, then 1000, 3000, and 5000 with conventional and Fram oil filters. After 5000 miles, my oil change interval was 10,000 with Mobil 1 and Fram oil filters. I ended up junking the car at 260K miles because it was a rust bucket due to salt and snow not because engine. The engine was still running like new. I now have a Toyota Camry with 360K milles and have only used Supertech oil and Supertech oil filters. Engine and tranny are running great but might have to get rid of it due to rust. If I didn't live in Chicago, I would surely still have my 1990 Grand Am.
I dont drive much either. My 93 Chevy Cheyenne has 106k in 2006. It was my spare vehicle. I only used it to go to the hardware store or for home projects. The body started rusting out here in Western Pennsylvania. And it was time for it to go with only 127k 😢. I have a 2020 4Runner now, only 13,800 miles. It needs to last 20 years 😂 an i dont drive it in snow.
@@leechburglights I have a Nisaan Frontier that I don't use in the winter too. I wait until after a couple of good rain falls before I start driving it in spring
Great video. You know what's best for you and your customers. 30 yr vet knuckle buster, 1st year shop owner. New to the channel. You're going to make me a lot of money and a lot of happy customers. Thank you all.
Mom’s one family owned, slightly modified, ‘83 Caprice sports package, would burn 1 pint every 4,000 miles. We changed the oil at 6 months or 4k miles. We started doing 4 1/2 quarts of 10w-30 conventional with 1/2 quart of STP oil treatment. No oil loss by 4k miles.
Checking engine oil level regularly and frequently plays a significant role over merely oil & filter changes as I have seen vehicles running with the dirtiest grimiest darkest oil still chugging along problem free.
Great video. Overall I agree. I drive a lot of highway miles. Change my oil. Every 10k and I have over 400 K on my engine. Runs great. However if I did more city driving, I would probably change it around every 7K
My work car, which is an 06’ Camry sees tons of highway miles and gets the 7,000 mile treatment. However, turbo vehicles absolutely need sooner oil change intervals. 3K ideally, 5K if you absolutely have to. Yes, a quality oil will withstand the heat cycles to a degree but stop/go traffic and short trips where the engine doesn’t reach full operating temperature are things to consider as well. If you don’t want a blown turbo/engine that is.
I’m aware of the manufacturer set the service interval to be attractive and not always comply to real life. IF the use of the car is abnormal like multiple cold starts and/or excessive idle etc. it’s a good thing to shorten the interval and actually this are mentioned in service bulletin, too. I would say 7000 miles is a waste of oil and money in normal driving condition. I have a 2012 Mercedes E200 CDI, with 610000 km(385000 miles) it has always been serviced as recommended by Mercedes; oil change every 25000 km (16000 miles) doesn’t use ANY oil between service. What I think is odd is that you recommend customers who often change their car, to skip the services.
The new economy vehicles (Yours is Not) have low tension rings (he Stated) and direct injection, that yields far better fuel mileage and lower emissions BUT more carbon and deposits in the oil. Check the Car Nut, on you tube, showing an Avalon owned by a doctor, serviced by the dealer, engine shot at 130,000, Your statements are about the exception and the exception does not prove the rule
@@thomasmorris302 Well, that is not only my experience, a lot of Mercedes vehicles has the same service record, as I been working at a dealership and know for a fact people doesn’t change oil in between services!
Love to hear you point of view I’m master technician 46 years working Asia products that had carbon coking on oil control rings on the cylinders that shut down for fuel economy then recommended 5000 oil internal and none of our customers had this issue.
I agree with you on quality filters are very important I’m still the 3000-4000 mile oil change intervals I have done this with my gas motors & diesel motors Cummins & Duramax with little to no oil consumption might be a bit drastic but definitely works for me for longevity .
Before I retired, my round trip commute was not quite 100 miles, all but 4 miles was highway. I did an oil change every 5000 miles just because the math was easy, and I got 250,000 miles out of a 2002 Chevy Cavalier (from new), no major rebuilds. One set of tires went 107,000 miles. Oil change, regular maintenance by a mechanic you can trust are the big ones in my opinion.
@@drury2d8 that was a long time ago… I think they were Continentals. (TBH, when I finally replaced them, they were getting a little squirrelly in the rain.)
@@dabneyoffermein595 it wasn’t/ didn’t seem so at the time. However now, when I go back to have lunch w/ former coworkers, it boggles my mind that I used to do that five+ times a week.
This is one of the most controversial issues concerning car owners. You ask 10 owners when they should change their oil, and you'll get 10 different answers. Years ago, I was on an airplane flight and sitting next to me was an engineer who helped design one of the engines Ford uses. I asked him his opinion about this very subject. His answer was this: Follow the manufacturers maintenance schedule for your vehicle. He said, we designed the engine. We test oils, parts and have laboratories that specifically do this. He said to use the oil (weight and Brand) that we recommend. He said issues arise when people use off brands of oil, cheap oil filters and then start adding additives to the oil. Ever since then, I have been following his recommendation. I admit, my manual says to not let the engine oil change go past 10,000 miles. I do change it around 7500 miles and use the brand of oil the manual says to use. So far, so good. Thanks for the video!
From everything I read and hear, even 7500 miles is slightly too long and 10,000 is just asking for it. I always use manuf recommended weight and grade since I think there are no "political considerations" regarding that much. But I tend to over-maintain and just ignore the manufacturer's intervals. I won't go over 5,000 miles without changing oil and usually just go by time. I know that guy you talked to works for them but all that means is he is part of the problem. When the guy is just parroting Ford's "recommendations" despite knowing better (and if he doesn't, he's a lousy engineer) I wouldn't listen. Not to somebody that says 10,000 miles is ok for an oil change, when the people who stick to such an interval usually wind up with oil-related engine problems (which tend to happen once the warranty's expired, of course). Few if any auto makers give a hoot in hell about their product once the warranty is over (exactly as OP says), only you do. And to people who choose to believe them - are you really sure 10,000 mile oil changes are good enough? I'm not!
I change my oil every 5k miles, when I was unemployed for a few years I changed it every 6 months because I never hit 5k miles then, drive 215k on my last car and never burned a drop, at 210k it started a small leak. Sold it 5 years ago bought my current car and as of 110k no oil burning either. Most people I know that change long intervals start burning oil between 60-75k. Most people I know changing 5k or less go into the high miles little to no consumption
I agree with everything you say in this video...spot on! You are a breath of fresh air my friend. I have always used the best oils and filters in my vehicles. For the past 20+ years I have used Mobil-1 oil with either Purolator or Wix oil filters, and changes at 5000 miles. I am firm believer in the advantages of synthetic oil and have never experienced any internal engine failures. You did not mention the oils you recommend. I would be interested in that information. This is my first visit to your channel and you make so much sense that I subscribed to hear more. I also am a subscriber to the "Ford Boss Me" channel. Rick has sent several virgin oils to Blackstone Labs for evaluation. The consensus is that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Valvoline Extended Protection have the best additive packages of those tested, with the exception of Redline. Also, Mobil-1 EP has one of the least impressive additive packages. This causes me to question if Mobil-1 EP is still the best choice for a quality synthetic oil. Would love to hear your opinion on the best oils based on your experience. Thank you for a very informative video. 👍👍 👍 Geo from Kalamazoo, MI
I always change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles. It’s more important today with these new junk quality cars coming out to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. You’re crazy if you’re not regularly changing your transmission fluid, oil, coolant, and any other fluid. Fluid degrades overtime from heat and west and tear
If im doing a lot of highway miles I go 5k towing and stop n go city driving .. 3k mainly if oil is still gold I go 5k if it is the slightest brown its done at 3k.
I'm not getting under my car every other Month and I'm certainly not paying anyone to do it. So for me 6 months or 10k will do especially considering it uses less than 1L in that time . The only exception for me would be if I would be towing it .
3K miles holy shit it´s 3x more often than recommended. You know you can also check the fluid instead of changing it ? I bet you change it 3x more often than need be.
This is the type of auto repair service you want to go too. There isn’t a recommended service interval that is a one size fits all solution. Knowing what your wants and needs are in the hands of an understanding and honest shop is money in the bank. Cheers on a great post
First off, great video and we need more honesty in vehicle services. Oil consumption can also be negated by proper engine break-in when the vehicle is new. I've owned most mentioned in your video, every single time I start out with a new rig, I do an engine break in. I run the oil that came with the vehicle for 500 miles, change it when it's hot (tolerably hot) refill, run it for 1,500 miles, change it again, run it up to 3,000 miles, change it again but this time I will install a premium synthetic oil. I've never had an engine consume oil. On multiple break-in oil changes, what is happening is the micro metal particles from the engine completing it's break-in are flowing around in the oil acting like sandpaper and is creating more wear. every third oil change after break in, I use the same oil but a high mileage blend which has seal conditioners in it, same oil but includes conditioners for the seals and keeps the elasticity in the seals and keeps them from drying out.
Absolute rubbish. Wow you talk a lot of crap. Oil hold contaminants in suspension, that is one of it's 4 jobs, as well as lubrication, reducing friction and dissipating heat. It's nit the 1980s anymore you don't need to do a break in change. First one at 10k is perfectly fine. Damn you waste a lot of good oil. And money 🤦🤣
I absolutely agree with you. Common sense and experience rule the day here. It's unfortunate that oil, oil changes, and filters have become such a debated subject. It is obvious that the manufacturer is going to want the longest interval. It is also obvious there have been so many instances of 10K-15K oil changes causing issues with carboned rings, sludge, etc. I have newer model Toyotas which have 10K OCI and I typically do changes 6-8K, Usually ending up at about 7K. I keep all my daily use vehicles as long as I can and typically sell at 200-250K miles. Never had any significant oil issues over the years. Can you do 10K oil changes? Sure you can, but it is not a good plan for a long term vehicle.
yep. Soooo many ppl who do the oil lab tests, those testing co's have databases of all the same engines and it's easy to see that after around 7 or 8K miles on many brands/models, the oil rapidly degrades to the point of losing viscosity (raising viscosity too high usually) among other degradation factors. Some engines degrade the oil by 5K, so it just depends on the engine design, and the usage.
@@18_rabbit Blackstone Labs has told me that I can extend my 15,000 mile oil change interval to 17,000 miles on my 2017 Cummins Ram after testing two of my samples with 15,000 miles on them. They of course have a huge data base for my Cummins 6.7.
Thanks for the video. I bought a new car and changed the oil at 7 thousand miles and i never changed it again. Its inportant to change your oil early. One and done
I love your mindset, sir. I wish more guys still thought this way. Sustainability is better in the long run than the gimmicks to save a little gas just to throw away an entire car at a quarter of the life of an old gas guzzler.
Most manufacturers list a "severe service" (and also "extreme service") maintenance schedule. I recommend starting in the severe interval range, and adjust up or down from there based on vehicle use, history, and oil analysis. Any fleet or multi-driver vehicle should be considered severe (or extreme) service automatically. Edit: At a minimum, use the recommended oil TYPE and Grade- if owners manual says use 5W30 SN plus/SP, use that (or higher API level). If it specifies DEXOS, use oil rated for that (usually full synthetic) For diesels, it's more complicated. Unless type FA-4 oil is Specified, you should use CK-4. Why? Because they are different applications. In some cases, you can use CK-4 where FA-4 is Specified, but rarely the other way around. Always consult the Manufacturer for details and TSBs for your specific VIN regardless of engine type.
Totally agree, frequent oil changes with a good quality filter is inexpensive insurance to keep a motor running in good shape and for a longer period of time. I personally like to go about 5 to 6K miles in my cars and trucks.
I do full synthetic change every 5k miles or 6 months personally. On the topic of fluids, a lot of modern manufacturers call their transmission fluid "lifetime fluid" as well. I got lucky and still have a drain plug and fill hole for my transmission and you better believe i do a drain and fill every 30k miles.
This is accurate. 3,500, 5000 and 7,500. Don't go past 7,500. The first number is for the perfectionists out there and you will never have consumption or break down issues. 5000 is theoretically your max with synthetic period. However if you have good climate conditions and a majority of highway driving, you can get away squeezing it to about 7,000 with a quality filter. I change mine between 3k and 5k with decent filters. Watch videos on oil breakdown and lab results. That will give you science over stipulation so you can decide what's best for you. Thanks for the video.
I use amsoil 5w-30 signature on both my vehicles and change the oil every 12,000 miles my 1997 7.5 liter f-250 has over 300K miles and my 2016 Honda civic 1.5 turbo is at 200K miles and they’re running just fine .
Blackstone Labs disagrees with you. I have sent them two samples of oil from my 2017 Cummins Ram 3500 with 15,000 miles on the oil. They told me the additive package was still fine, and that I could extend the interval to 17,000 miles.
I agree with this video. I have 335,000 miles on my ‘08 Honda Accord w 2.4L. I used to go to 15% left on my maintenance minder which typically ~8,000 miles. Now that it’s high mileage I’ve gone a bit earlier between 5,000-6,000 miles just to keep peace of mind to get me well over 400,000 miles. Throughout life of vehicle, used Mobil 1, Amsoil SS, and now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Gonna stay on my 5,000-6,000 OCI. Love this video!
Also… in order to keep oil consumption down I use 5w-20 4 qts and 1 qt of 5w-30. Both PUP. With Purolator Boss oil filter. Works great and I use about 1 qt per OCI from a consumption standpoint.
I do 6 months or 5000 miles. I own a Chevy with a 3.6 and these engine timing chains are very sensitive to long oil change intervals. From what I read, many chains (there are 3) are needing replacement at around 120,000 at the most. With my car it will be interesting if I get more mileage out of the chains with more frequent changes. I use full synthetic oil and Napa Gold filters.
I have a 2008 Pontiac with that engine. I was told 5K on synthetics from the dealer and to disregard the oil life monitor. Weak oil is the main contributor to timing chain failure. My car has 120K on it and the timing is still good
"G.M." was great for using aluminum/ nylon tooth cam sprockets that would "FAIL" but "G.M." did not care, due to the fact that when the cam would jump timing, the vehicle was out of warranty., I always replaced the chain, and the sprockets with steel. "G.M." claimed that they used the nylon sprockets for noise reduction. when I replaced with steel sprockets, I did not hear any abnormal noise. G.M." also had issues with "SOFT" cams, and the lobes would wear off, causing no valve lift. the owner would complain that there was an engine "MISS".
It depends on the driving. I attribute the 43mpg I achieved at the time I finally sold my 07 Civic at 402,000mi due to the fact that I never missed an oil change ....and...that most of that was highway driving. My OCI was 8,000mi. When the dealer confirmed the catalytic was shot at 380,000, they were shocked: 200k was common, 300k was rare...I went nearly 400k. Pennzoil from natural gas and a Mobil filter (and K&N for a few years). My girlfriend's 05 Highlander and my '18 Camry get driven around a city mostly...and my '12 civic is a manual: all of those I follow 5k oci.
I agree with your reasoning. I change the oil every 6 months at 5k miles with regular oil. If I use synthetic, then I change the oil once a year or at 6-7k miles. I always use a good filter, usually Wix, even if I have to provide it to the oil change facility myself. For my Toyota Highlander, I go to a local car wash /lube center to get my oil changed. They only carry cheap $2 filters. In matter of fact, they only credit you $2 when you provide your own filter. For my Porsch Panamera 4s, I go to a reputable independent Euro-car shop that uses Liquimoly oil and filters exclusively. I find that manufacturers recommend longer intervals due to them wanting to keep the advertise costs to run the vehicle low. Dealers and lube facilities want to make $ and recommend intervals that are way too short. It's all about using common sense. I would never leave oil in any car longer than 7500 miles! Period! Especially in a German car with hot V twin turbos!
The $2 credit doesn't necessarily dictate the value of the filter. The shop's likely just retaining their profit by ONLY crediting you that amount. Having watched MANY RUclips videos on oil filter cut-opens and reviews, the only filter that gave cause for concern was the company with orange filters and starts with an "F." All the others are shockingly similar. It is true that if you spend~>=$12 for a premium filter that you'll get a better overall product, but the difference isn't all that striking, as it turns out.
We use Liquimolly oil for most oil changes in our small shop, good product especially for cars like Audi or BMW, which are oil sensitive and bad for timing chains. Our recommended OCI is about 50% of the manufacturers recommended mileage, more or less 8-10k km max. in Canadian conditions close to Upper State NY. We did many CR-Vs engine re-rinnging and replacement and all were due to 'baked' rings syndrome. Some of the CR-Vs engines are still in very good shape, especially the well maintained ones, not taking any oil all.
This is what I've had good luck with. Full synthetic for naturally aspirated around 5k, turbocharged engine I do 3 to 3.5K. Filter every time, agree filter quality matters. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1. If engine has 150K or more miles decrease interval by about 1k. I switch drain plug out to magnetic type. Change it while hot, take extra time to look for other issues underneath, let oil drain until it barely drips. Most importantly if doing yourself be safe under vehicle. I have change oil in my F-150 and noticed one of the plastic ramps I had splitting while underneath (I use steel now)
I run 4 vehicles, 2 4WDS a Campervan and a Commercial Van. I change the oil every 6 months or 5,000 Kilometers. My Campervan (a Toyota HiAce has done 515,000 Kilometers and is still running beautifully.
The best time to change is about every 7K miles and change with a new, high quality oil filter, but this is for 100% Synthetic Oil, because it lasts longer and stays clean longer. Also, it's more slippery. I have 320,000 on one vehicle and it never uses a drop of oil during long road trips.
I use synthetic oil and change at 5,000 miles. The main reason is that 5,000 mile intervals are easy to remember and I think 10,000 is a little on the long side. I am sure the oil is good for 7,500, but who wants to try to remember that the next oil change is at 37,500 rather than 42,500? Every 5K is very easy to remember and keeping things simple is usually better.
Exactly! I started changing my oil every 5,000 miles according to the odometer just in the last few years, but now I never have to try to remember how many miles it has been. I don’t have to rely on those windshield stickers. I don’t know why it took me so long to learn this.
Good point: Living in Canada with the metric system makes this super easy. I change oil and filter every 10,000 km (6200miles). So next change will be 190,000km on my 17 Outback. It’s not an oil burner like my 11 and 14 Foresters were. All have ( had) the 2.5 DOHC.
Some of the oil life monitoring systems, when the vehicle is used in Canada in cold weather, will call for an oil change after 2500 miles. Cold starting at -35 to -40 is very hard on engine oil. It gets diluted with gas from all of the time running when not up to operating temperature.
I have a 2021 Jeep (Pentastar V6 gas). Am here in too-warm TX right now (going back to colder CO in 2 years) and as I did with my 2016 Honda Pilot earlier, I get the oil & filter change done when the Oil Life "maintenance-minder" gets to zero (and do a tire-rotation also). That seems to happen around 5K+/- miles -- which seems to be a decent interval, ESPECIALLY since I use full synthetic -- so I don't do a "fixed mileage" oil/filter changes anymore. Or even a fixed time. -- BR
@@DaveP-uv1ml IMO, taking it in at 15% Oil Life on the "Maintenance Minder" (as Honda calls it, not sure what Jeep's name for their dash-reminder is) is one of the many dealership ploys to get you into Service as often as possible, even if you don't NEED it. When I do oil-changes on my own (or take it in to the dealer but bring my own oil & filter) I use Mobil 1 (full synthetic, not like Jeep's synthetic-blend oil -- very GOOD oil but not FULL synthetic as I prefer) "Extended Performance" which is good for 20K miles -- outrageous! And my Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter is also good for 20K miles. Doubly outrageous!! However, I look at those numbers as "headroom" (a cushion/fudge-factor, if you will) to play with re: exactly WHEN I take my Jeep in for an oil-change, when the Oil Life hits 0% regardless of the odometer reading...but which just happens to be around 5K miles. Even if it's 5500-6000miles by the time Oil Life gets to 0%, there's PLENTY of oil life (and filter) protection left that I could let it go to 10-15K miles and not worry. Of course, I WON'T let it go that long, jsut saying I'm not AT ALL worried about any harm done to my engine when I let it go to 0% and it's around ~5K miles since my last oil/filter change. I had that same policy with my previous cars that had a Oil Life reminder (like my 2016 Honda Pilot EX-L AWD). "Jeep Wave" ...even if you don't have a Jeep, or a Ford Bronco: Yes, I wave at them, too, but hardly see any around here. Even if I do see one and wave, they have no clue what the Jeep Wave is ("It's a Jeep thing") and why I would be waving at them...as there isn't a "Bronco Wave" -- but there SHOULD be, if Ford's Marketing/PR department wasn't asleep at the wheel. After all, lots of the Bronco design copied the Jeep...you'd think Ford would ALSO copy the Jeep Wave. ;-) -- BR
Couldn't agree more. I live in the UK and manufacturer's service intervals are ridiculous here. Most private buyers of new cars trade them in after 3 or at most 4 years and don't suffer the consequences of these service intervals. I've just retired and sold my Doblo Cargo van. The service interval on it was 21000 miles or 2 years. This is mad. it's a turbo diesel and thrashes the oil.
I love your philosophy! I haven't lived where car ownership was a practical option for a lot of years, but back when I did, my philosophy was that I wouldn't feed my family crummy food, so why would I "feed" my car crummy oil and crummy filters? I never found a shop that I trusted to actually follow through, so I did most of my oil changes by myself. In my young days, 3000 miles was still almost the universal recommendation, but I think that had changed by the time I was in my twenties. I used to set my target for 5000 miles, knowing that I would get busy and put it off until 6K or 7K, anyway.
I own an AFM 5.3 liter with 283,000 miles. Oil change interval 3000 Miles. Still has Original Cam and AFM lifters. That's how to avoid engine damage. The price of my oil and filter is still less than an engine replacement.
Great video and so true. My shop recommends 3k on non synthetic and 5k on synthetic. Hondas have a "maintenance minder" and i have customers that go by that and change between 10 and 15k and i can tell you this when it comes time to adjust the valves i can tell you who does 5k services and those that change at 5 usually dont have oil burning issues. As far as filters its OE.
But the 10-15K cars are still fine. It's a complete waste to change your oil at 5K miles, if it's 10K recommended and you use good synthetic. It would take hundreds of thousands of miles to see a difference, if ever and by that point the car would have many other issues before that.
@@micker9830as I stated before. When it comes time to adjust the valves on a Honda, which is all I work on, I can tell the difference in customers who service at 5 and those that service at 15. The valves are usually adjusted around 110k. The internals are much cleaner and not "gunky" if routinely serviced at 5k and I have most complaints of oil burning from those that service at 10-15k. . I dont by any means pressure my customers to change every 5k miles but if they intend on trying to keep the car forever I recommend every 5k and I have customers who have 250-300k miles and dont burn a drop and have super clean internals. Compared to those that do 10-15k and have 150k that burn 2-4 quarts and have nasty internals. Just stating what I see with my customers cars.
@@smokinwithskruggs Thats the older cars. The new cars are designed for very thin synthetic oil and don't need to be changed before the recommended interval, which is usually 10k or so. Good full synth oil will not have lost any viscosity or properties, so why would changing it early help anything?
@micker9830 I am talking about Hondas that use 0W20 Synth oil. Honda has been using that since 2005 so I don't know what you consider a newer vehicle. You want to tell your customers to change their oil every 15k have at it. Like I said I don't push my customers I just give them facts of what I see in my other customers cars. I've seen oil come along ways as a mechanical of 48 years but real life and what's on paper is two different things in my opinion. Changing your oil more leads to longer, cleaner running engines. Just my opinion.
I use full synthetic in all of my cars. I change the oil every 10K miles. I've never had an engine fail and I get well over 300K miles from each of them.
As long you are changing your own oil yes you can go 1 year 10k oci no doubt. People who go to jeffylube and that kind of quick lube places to change their oil, even 5k oci won't help their engine to survive longer. So in my opinion as long you are changing your own oil with quality oil and filter, you can go 10k oci
On the other hand, you could use a regular mineral oil with the same API spec required by manufacturer of the engine and replace it every 3 months or 3,000 Miles or 5,000 Km and still save money!
Great video. I agree with everything you said, 100%. I’ve always wondered about why the service intervals were exaggerated the way they are. Then you hit the nail on the head: low cost of ownership. If a manufacturer can coerce you into believing that their vehicles do not require too much maintenance-or money-then it is a good vehicle. While that may be true to some extent, it is precisely the excuse they need to push a new vehicle on you if and when something does go wrong. People often forget that these corporations are there to take our money, not to help us save it!
I appreciate the in-depth dive into this debated topic. I’ve conducted oil analyses on my personal vehicles which have reveals the compromises of direct injection and low piston ring tension. Varying levels of fuel dilution. I’ve used these reports to determine my own oil change intervals. Vehicle variability, environment, and driving style should all be considered.
I'm a big advocate of time and mileage based maintenance on vehicles. Say an elderly couple owns a vehicle and only goes to and from the grocery store and church just up the street a few times a week. That engine may never get up to full operating temperature. If that's the case the oil change needs to be done more frequently to protect the engine from slugging. In the end ever car and owner is a unique situation and needs to be evaluated as such. If it were up to me I would talk to the customer and tell them we are going to monitor your oil during the change intervals. Have them stop by one ever few weeks and inspect the level and condition of the oil. At 4k miles change it and see what it looks like if good add another 500 miles or subtract 500 miles. Keep adjusting themselves until y out reach the just right spot for each situation. But on the flip side you have to have a customer who is willing to be that dedicated and loyal to your shop to make it work for them.
You are correct. Many years ago we had an elderly lady who had a early to mid 80s Honda. She only drove it in our downtown area, very small area. We had to change her oil every 400, that's hundred, miles because you could smell the fuel in the oil. It was a carburetored model so that didn't help.
Low tension piston rings combined with aluminum blocks will have more sealing issues than cast iron blocks. For me personally, 5k is the max. Oil changes are cheaper than hard part replacements like engines.
Since a majority of owners never open the hood on their vehicles, modern engines that use a quart of oil every 2 to 3 thousand miles have very little oil left in them at 10K oil change intervals. Since many components in today's engines function with oil pressure, you may be sure that that engine will fail prematurely.
It's not low tension rings. It's GDI abrasive soot and fuel dilution of the oil. Just do search on those issues. OEMs want consumers to think it's a simple ring issue so they can cut thier losses. I haven't seen an all aluminum block since the Vega, yes we had one. Modern cars have steel cylinder liners.
I change my own oil. I even kind of like doing it. I've never heard of a problem from changing oil too often, so that's the side I err on. I am now applying the same philosophy to automatic transmission fluid (if I got the car new or under 60k miles).
Changing it too often may be a problem with cheap oil. Part of the oil will degrade faster and create ashes/deposits on the engine. So if you do 3000mi and use cheap oil then you might want to reconsider and buy great oil and do it every 5000mi.
@@johnnyblue4799 It tends to be 4k-6k, except for a car I rarely drive and I change that full synthetic oil once a year. The others are also full synthetic API SN Plus certified. If I can get it I also use the same oil but in the high mileage Dexos 1 certified oil for GM cars. Typically I use Wix filters. Those were the good certifications as I understood it. Are these what you call great oil, or should I be looking at something else? Thanks.
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh 50 years ago you did not have solenoids for variable valve timing and not many cars came with turbo. You probably had carburetors and no EGRs either. A bit of sludge was not that detrimental and also the best oil then would be outperformed by cheap oils today. Both oil and engine technology changed a lot. 3000 miles drain interval today would be overkill. I wouldn't do 10000, anywhere between 5 and 7 is perfectly fine with good synthetic. Also, 50 years ago 100k miles was probably a decent lifespan for an engine, but that's totally not acceptable today.
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh Right. As long as the oil meets or exceeds the OEM's requirements for the API certification, viscosity, etc., you're in the clear. The rest is just marketing and snake oil. "Cheap" oils should only refer to those that don't comply with the American Petroleum Institute's standards, which are quite rare these days and are seldom used in the real world.
Manufacturer recommendations are one size fits all and don't take into account location and driving style. Proper oil changes are never a waste of money because it is cheap insurance against replacing an engine.
An absolutely superlative video. I own a 2008 SAAB 9-5, bought new for $17,000 in 2012 as a leftover after GM cut them loose. It now has 135,000 miles. I live in Manhattan and do a lot of stop and go driving. Since new I change my Mobil 1 0w-40 and Mann filter every 3000-4000 miles. I buy my filters in bulk. They run about $6.00 each. I buy my oil at Walmart for $22.97...and more often than not with a $10.00 rebate. I bring the oil and filter to my indy SAAB Master Tech, and he charges $25.00 to do the change. So I basically pay--at the most--$220 a year for oil changes. Per 3000-3500 miles, I don't burn any oil whatsoever, and that's on a turbocharged engine. On a side note, since new, with parts, labor, preventative maintenance, fluids, tires, suspension and exhaust, I've spent $5,300...or $378 per year. That's pretty good over 14 years. So even if a major repair happens, I will still pay to have it fixed. A timing chain job is about $700. Turbocharger is $750. Rebuilt transmission is $1,400. Sure beats buying a new car for $40,000.
got a Saab 9-3 estate 1.9td with 242,000 miles! Engine is absolutely fine never used oil changed every 6,000! Down side is the electrics have thrown a wobbly so have parked it up! Am in the UK
Auto makers may want the oil change intervals stretched out, but garages and oil manufacturers want it shorter so they can make more money, so you’re darned if you do, darned if you don’t.
@@willg.5168perhaps when you realize that these extended maintenance intervals are written by marketing and not engineers, you may not think it’s crazy.
@@a3300000 the sweet spot would be about the 5000 mark. Oils are too advanced to dump out at 3000 is all I'm saying. If we were still in the Carter days, then 3000 would be spot on
Oils are SO much more advanced now than 30 years ago. If you had your oil analyzed at 5,000, 7,500 and 10,000 miles, you’d find with very few exceptions that the oil would be fine at 10,000 miles. Navy ships, locomotives, long haul trucks and stationary generator systems all use long drains, even 4 years of use. They all have bypass filter systems to keep the oil clean. Cars could easily go 10,000 miles with a bypass filter. Amsoil sells them.
I do agree with you, I also do more transmission service than most people do. My last car had 180,000 mile and the transmission failed, ( service every 50,000 mile) the oil changes were every 5 k mile. The engine was great but the cost of the transmission was worth more than the value of the car. I now service my transmission once a year.
Thanks for your concise description of real cost of ownership of quality vehicles. I agree with your business model and follow this process on all my private DIY work. Cheers. Retired Pro Import Guy/
I had a 2012 Charger 5.7 hemi. After buying it I heard and read hundreds of stories about how the engine would rattle, eat cams, lifters oil pumps. I changed the oil every 6,000 miles using 5-20 synthetic Pennzoil. I used the Wix oil filter every change. Unfortunately the car was totaled by another vehicle. It had 176,488 miles on it. The quietest engine I ever had. No rattling, knocking or oil consumption issues. I did the changes myself! Trust issues. You maintain them and they will last.
The gen III hemi gets a bad rap for all those top-end problems. It's a big engine that makes a lot of heat. If you always drove it like you stole it, it will fall apart in 120,000 miles. But if you take care of it, use a high quality oil and change it every 5-6k, and watch oil temps and back off if they start to get too high (much over about 240 f), no reason why it couldn't last 200-250k. Thing is, if you weren't original owner, you never truly know the history. Recommended interval is 8k, and dealers usually don't use full synthetic even if they claim they do. They use use whatever they can buy a drum of for the lowest price. Can't even be sure it's the right viscosity.
Personally, I am in the same boat where I change all my own oil and I only use top shelf oil every single time and I typically change between 5 and 6,000 miles. And overall, while sending my oil samples to Blackstone Labs once per year, all of my engines are in great condition, over 100,000 miles.
@@Jimster481same here! I change my oil 4X per year. In the Spring and Fall, I may use the Wal Mart oil as the ambient temps are more moderate. But during Summer and Winter, I’ll use the top shelf oils and filters just because they hold up better in extreme temperatures.
You changing the oil at 6k doesn’t mean anything.
@@carlovanrijk4039changing 4x a year is a complete waste of time unless you drive 25k miles a year.
Regardless of whether changing the oil more frequent makes the engine last longer ...it still get s somebody under the hood more often to check things, because the average custemer today just turns the key and drives it...
Many people come in for 10K oil changes on many of these newer vehicles that use a quart of oil every 2K-3K miles. Guess how much oil is in the vehicle when the tech sees it? VVT on many cars works on oil pressure. Timing chain tensioners work off of oil pressure. It's no wonder that engines are dying so much more than in the past.
Isn't it a progress when you do not have to open the hood every time you want to drive, or hand crank the engine ?
@@dmitripogosian5084No, vehicles have to be maintained heavily unless you want to be spending $15,000 a year to buy a new car or fix the one you screwed up.
@@LandonDean-zk4wn You don't have a brain
@@dmitripogosian5084you don’t check every single time you start to drive. Once a week is more than enough.
I agree 100%. I usually go half of the factory recommended mileage. The car I have now now is 10,000, I go 5,000. I consider the extra cost of the oil will be far less than the repairs you will do otherwise.
Old timey Automotive/SAE Mech. Engr ... who also did 'tribology' - lubrication science.
My personal Rx: 1. If 90% steady-state (cruise control) ... highway speed driving - change the oil AT, or before, the OEM Mfg. change recommendation. If predominantly at 'city' or Stop and Go driving ... change the oil at HALF the recomended CHANGE INTERVAL . Maximum intervals vs. 'time' is ~9 months regardless of mileage. --- all for (older) engines with 'normal' piston ring tensions.
2. For engines (~2010 onwards - with loose OEM piston rings !!!) .... Steady-state highway speeds change @ ~75% of recommended miles interval. For City - stop and go ... change @ HALF the changeout interval. .... To help prevent carbon build up in the piston ring grooves that result in a high propensity to 'stuck rings'; thus, premature cylinder wall wear.
I normally get 200-300 miles from my engines. Reason; changing the oil is MUCH MUCH cheaper than a new vehicle or even an engine 'rebuild'.
OIl Filters ... My preference, based on actual testing, remains WIX. (havent tested the Chinese made WIX; so, I will remain 'doubtful about the Chinese made WIX.). USA, EU and Japanese oil filters are historically consistent; others can be variable in meeting 'spec' - IMO.
Caution: always check the µM (micrometer/ 'micron') removal rating and 'effective surface area' of the filter .... NEVER EVER EVER use a filter with a 'smaller' µM particle retention (OEM spec.) .... as such will have 'significantly' REDUCED 'recirculation' oil flow rate and thus the engine will risk to be 'starved' from the designed 'recirculating' oil rate !!!!! The 'faster' the oil flow rate, the FASTER the particulate (and HEAT) REMOVAL !!! OK (preferable) to use a filter with expanded 'effective filtration surface area' .... allows MORE and 'faster' particle removal, especially if you're an 'aggressive' driver who likes to 'accelerate'.
@@richh1576 smaller than what specification ?: "NEVER EVER EVER use a filter with a 'smaller' µM particle retention (OEM spec.) ...." ??? almost all mainstream filters are apparently within the typical range of 20 to 30. So this seems to be a total non issue, no?
@@richh1576not true. Oil basically doesn’t degrade from time, at least to a point. It’s been proven oil with the same miles but one that had 2 years on it as opposed to 6 months tested to be virtually exactly the same.
I agree 25%. I change at 25% of the factory recommended manual, because, of course, I know more than those elitist engineers…
@@JS-tr7oo what? You are telling me synthetic oil isn’t much better than conventional oil? 🤦♂️🤦♂️. Sold you a lie? So just because you change the oil more often ur engine AND tranny is guaranteed to last 500k miles right? You have a junk box that went to almost 200k miles. That’s way past normal. And maybe read the service book where is says “recommended service times”. Then read where is says under certain conditions. 🤦♂️🤦♂️. You sound slow and refuse to take responsibility for ur own actions. No way you are an adult.
What a truthful and trustworthy person! Thank you for being a good guy!! Wix and Mann are the best!!
My 2007 Toyota Camry has over 411,000 miles on it. Always changed oil and filter every 5,000 miles and haven’t ever changed the transmission oil. It’s my daily driver putting 600 miles a week on it. Still going strong and might use half quart of oil between oil changes. Best car I’ve ever owned.
Why didn't you ever change the transmission fluid? With all the heat that transmission experience, I would think someone like yoursel - who religiously changes their engine oil - would also do the same for the transmission (every 30 - 50 thousand miles).
@@Michael-fw5ef He's got his money's worth out of it
Which engine? The V-6 or 4 cyl. engine?
Yeah Toyota's can go the distance. I've had several, for example I had an 1993 Toyota Corolla with the old 4AFE engine, that one had over 500k when I sold it (still running and driving great). I had a 2000 Corolla with the 1ZZ-FE engine, I had to rebuild the engine in that one at 200k because of excessive oil burning due to bad rings though, but it had over 550k miles when I sold it (it also ran and drove great still). I did do regular fluid service on the transmissions though. I also had an old school Geo Prism with over 400k miles on it. I delivered pizza full time for over 15 years, so I racked up a huge amount of miles. Even now I prefer older Japanese cars, I have a 98 Accord with the 2.3L F23A1 that I've converted to a 5 speed manual. Just did a full rebuild on that one at 245k miles, but I love those engines.
What oil and filter do u use?
i like the saying 'oil is cheap engines are not'
Learned that lesson
Except when you return the lease in 4 years anyway. Then extra oil change beyond manufacturer scheduled is just an unneeded extra expense
Personally, I don't agree with the 7K interval. I have 4 Toyotas to maintain, I change the oil in them every 4,000 miles. That may be a bit early, but I go by the belief that oil and filters are relatively cheap, engines are not.
The Car Care Nut, a Toyota Master Mechanic, recommends 5K mile oil changes on all Toyotas, as opposed to 10K miles. I'm sure he would be pleased with 4K intervals. After all, sometimes we are in the middle of a long unplanned trip when the oil change comes due. Better to be a little early most of the time (after all, it is not like there are magic things at each 1000 mile mark).
I put 400k miles on my 2015 highlander and I do 10k intervals the only time i didn’t was at 1k 2.5k 5k then 10k every since then
@@flagmichael Exactly. I have a friend who has a Expedition with the twin turbo v6, I changed their oil before they went on a trip to Florida. I told them with the twin turbos, i would change that oil religiously at 3k because of the turbos. Even one turbo failure is more than $3,000 so changing the oil is cheap insurance. When they came back from Florida, he called me and said he was quite surprised that it was already at 3k miles, it had been one month.
4K? Factory says mine should be changed every 20K miles. Seems like a long time to me but my Blackstone Labs test came back fine. How have your oil tests come back?
Yeah most Toyotas I see throw a maintenance required light real close to 5k. Over doing it never hurt a thing
Agreed. I have been servicing my own cars for 25 years. And everything you said is true.
I've been servicing my own cars for 20 years and stuck to the manufacturers recommended intervals and all my vehicles have hit 150k + miles while not having any drivetrain issues.
I live in the rust belt so everything else breaks down before the engine/trans did.
hyundai says 10k km and 7500 under heavy loads @@inorite4553
I agree. Proper oil, wix filter every 5000. It’s not a guarantee on the motor but it’s the cheapest and easiest action we can take to get a good long lasting outcome.
When you can do it yourself, here in the Netherlands an oil change costs more than €200,00……..
full synth, better than all the rest? that's what I use but didn't hear the recommendation on this video, did I just miss it or do we simply pull the owner's manual out and go strictly by that even if it doesn't mention full synthetic oil?
@@dabneyoffermein595most manufacturers use full synthetic now.
Wix is no longer Wix. Mann Hummel owns it and other long cherished brands. People have noticed inferior products by these brands. Beware
Very helpful video. I am grateful for the independent shop that I take my car to. They aren't the cheapest, but they are honest and do quality work.
I'm from Spain and last weekend did my Audi A7 3.0 TDI oil service. Manufacturer sais to do It every one year or 15k kms (9k miles) un fix intervals or 30k kms (18k miles) un longlife intervals. I do it every year and this year, with only 4k miles. Using Mann filter and Amsoil 5w30 LS European Car Formula. If You're take Care of your Car, your Car will take care of you and your pocket
Be careful to ensure the 'Amsoil 5w30 LS European Car Formula' oil meets the manufacturer's requirements for your TDI Diesel. My understanding is diesel rated oils are different in their additive package (more detergents) and using an oil designed for gas engines is not the best way to go, even if you change the oil more frequently...
My personal experience is that investing in frequent oil changes does not influence how much your car ultimately costs you in repairs: it will be the non-oil related failures that will likely cost you and make you consider renewing your vehicle.
I am 71. Yeah, old. I get it. I change my oil every six months. I buy the cheapest oil on sale. I sometimes buy more than I need if the price is really low. I been doing this for going on 55 years now. I am old. All my engines runs great. With the money I save, I take my honey out for a movie and a meal. Sometimes I take my wife!😅
Haha awesome. We salute you.
R u old?😂
71 is not old!
Hey I'm 71. Not old.
Good on you! It sucks seeing more and more people paying out the tuchus for services they can do themselves. My pops (68) is much the same way. Luckily, I am in the business, so I do all of his maintenance for him now.
I'm a non-pro DIY'er and I believe 5,000 is the absolute max I'll go on my fleet of about 12 cars (Family included). I do believe in high quality oil and filters as well, WIX is great and I also go to the dealer for OEM filters.I don't care what anyone else does, but I don't want gunk building in my family and friends engines. I want them to last 300, 000 or more miles, and they do. Thanks
Have you ever had a car die, because of the engine wearing out lol? It would take hundreds of thousands of miles and something else would go first.
@@micker9830Happens all the time. Tiny oil passages gunk up and clog or slow oiling. Takes out a critical system. Even Toyotas. People who only drive short trips and go with long intervals are in for a surprise.
@@micker9830I have, and I still do....due to lousy maintenance
@@briancoleman971especially the VVT solenoids they clog fairly easy.
I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. The rest of the country refers to us as “Winterpeg.” December and January, overnight lows of -30 to -40 C. July and August, summer highs of +30 to +35 C, and very humid.
In this climate, if you change your oil only twice a year or every 8,000km, the engine will make it through warranty and not much longer. Especially stop and go driving.
I personally change my own oil and filter every 3 months or 6,000km, whichever comes first. For my Focus, I run Mobil 1 5W-20 in warmer weather. For winter, Mobil 1 0W-20. Ford recommends a 0W-20 if ambient low temps are -30 C or colder.
@@briancoleman971no
Bottom line. If you maintain your engine and keep clean oil in it chances are that you will not have problems with it. Unless there is a manufacturer defect in it. You should be fine. My late father always said “ do your oil changes and keep your engine oil clean and you will not have problems.” I have owned many cars in the past 40 years and have never had a major mechanical problem or blown an engine. And most of my cars and trucks went well over 100,000 miles. That’s my story. Thanks you for your video.
Love the thorough work that you perform on autos. I was changing my own oil back in the 70s on my Dodge Dart. The pandemic brought me back. Yes, I buy Wix filters for my cars and my riding lawnmower. I went to full synthetic during the pandemic.
I prescribe to the 5k / 6months on full synthetic. I do this work for a living and see what happens to engines day in and day out for people who try and extend the oil service interval. I might enjoy putting motors in other peoples vehicles, but not mine!
Yeh I have already started that little bit aggressive oil change interval when I want to run it until wheels fall off 😅
I average 1,200 miles a year so I change my oil every 6 months around the 600 mile mark.
@@chodkowski01 yeah definitely smart. I have an old truck that I put about that mileage on, I actually do it every year and intentionally drive it on long trips to keep the oil from being diluted. But the logic is that its a 99 dakota, putting 1k miles on it a year it is going to last longer then the parts availability! Which when you can no longer find parts for a vehicle you might as well junk it.
If you garage keep your car with that mileage I wouldn't think its a big deal to go the full year on full synthetic either. My parents have a 12 accord with the original Michelin defenders on them. they are 11 year old tires with no sidewall cracks and 50k miles on them. You would be surprised how much a difference garage keeping a vehicle makes.
The oil age is definitely very subjective depending on climate and if the car is garaged or out in the elements. But definitely not the mileage!
@@chodkowski01If you park your vehicle in a garage, you probably should change your oil ONCE every Four YEARS.
I recently started working on vehicles that aren’t mine, and absolutely love it.
My main frustrations working on cars came from working on my own vehicle. Probably because at the time I didn’t have access to a second vehicle, so until the job was done I had nothing to drive.
Here’s part of the ton of replies you predicted. I totally agree with you. Top quality, and top quality oil. One point you didn’t touch in, was turbocharged engines. They seem to be harder on oil, and should have oil changes done more frequently than for non-turbo engines. The turbo chargers stress the oil, mainly with heat. The Oil-Life Monitor on my 2.7L V6 Edge requests oil,changes at about the 5,000 interval. I comply with full synthetic oil.
Great topic i change my oil every 5,000 miles.
BTW you are telling the truth!
i get mad if i let one slip to 6,500 miles, normally much sooner, like 4K
💯 % agree. Honest, educated, professional video. Thanks more making it for the uniformed. Not only for longevity but for reliability while you own/drive it also
I'm relatively new to the channel but am already completely "hooked" on your business model/approach. So much respect for your steadfast commitment to doing the right thing......quality, quality, quality. Although I'm just an amateur wrench turner, I absolutely LOVE doing the general maintenance on my vehicle and am a total nerd about oil and oil filter quality issues. I currently own a 2022 VW Jetta GLI with the 2.0 I4 turbo and the 7-speed DSG trans. As many others, VW recommends oil service at every 10k miles. I choose to change it every 5k with Ravenol 0w-20 full synthetic combined with a Hengst oil filter. So far, everything is problem free and running like silk......and with no oil loss/consumption between changes. Thanks for posting everything you do.....I appreciate your time and efforts with everything. Never compromise.
I love the straight talk - it's worth a subscription.
I have a 2014 Prius with 186K miles and no measurable oil consumption between oil changes. We bought it used; I just used the oil change reminder built into the car. Every 5K miles it says to service the oil. Then I read the warranty / service booklet, where it says 10K miles. Huh. So, I reset the oil reminder and started on the second 5K. I made it about 1K miles before I saw a Car Care Nut (Toyota Master Tech) video in which he warned about oil consumption problems associated with cylinder scuffing with 10K mile oil change intervals. I changed the oil right away, I tell you what!
I change the oil myself; affordable enough after buying the steel oil filter tool from Toyota - about $75 - to get the filter housing off. I agree it is a matter of the use and vehicle; 5K for mine.
EDIT - I almost forgot: I get the filters from Toyota: $6. I'm sure Wix is great, but we are seeing a flood of counterfeit auto parts. Don't bet any higher end parts at auto parts stores are genuine. The stores are honest, but the supply chain can have a lot of vulnerabilities on it. In particular, every major auto parts chain has had problems with counterfeit NGK and Bosch iridium plugs. Some are toast after 15K miles. Dealer supply chains are more direct and probably better vetted. I hope.
2022 Prius 198K I plan on putting 500K on it so I change the oil every 3K.
Many newer car models are now turbocharged. These turbos spin at 80k to 100k rpm. The turbo's bearings are lubricated using the same oil from the car's engine. You don't need a crystal ball to predict what will be happening in the future when customers follow extended oil change intervals.
Many newer vehicles have turbos with water-cooling around their bearings. Not as much of an issue as it used to be. You rarely hear of newer turbos failing because of carbon build-up in their bearings.
A lot of the time it’s not the bearings, it’s the tiny oil feed line that clogs, cracks me up as an engineer, how people think “modern “ engines somehow defy physics, a modern engine was engineered to last the power train warranty period, that exact how it was engineered, and exactly what the engineers were paid to accomplish.
@@chippsterstephens6800 And yet, there are many 'modern' vehicles on the road today which exceed the manufacturer's warranty by many hundreds of thousands of miles. I have direct experience of this. Your claim isn't credible in the least.
Australia here and our 2013 Hyundai i30 Premium 1.6 CRDi diesel turbo (Hyundai use Garret) and now after 445,000KM's (276,000 miles) later it has never had a single mechanical issue, is still on it's original double row timing chains and tensioners, uses no oil nor makes extra oil between changes done every 15,000KM's (9,320 miles), has not required an inlet manifold or valve clean (inspected at 200,000 KM's and just recently at 443,000KM's) and the valves are light volcanic ash colour with zero carbon buildup. The car still gets 40mpg/city and 60mpg/highway and it pulls like a freight train. Engine is very smooth, quiet and a joy to own. Cheers. @clean6903
@@chippsterstephens6800Well said.
Great discussion Wiz. Fully agree that these intervals are ridiculous. I sat in on a GDI class this weekend that talked manufacturer credits toward their epa scores based on cost of maintenance. By having further in-between intervals the "cost" of maintenance is lower so they can get more credits for not X amount of mpg's required by EPA
Yeah I ain't waiting no 10k oil change on a GDI engine. The max I would go even with synthetic is 3k
@@retiredsnowbunnyhunterx5106 Why would a GDI engine change the oil change interval? They have high pressure fuel lines, a different injector, and intake valve carbon issues, but pretty much the same otherwise aren't they?
@@theredscourge Correct you are about that. There particular GDI engines that do not like dirty oil. Will stretch the timing chain. So far I haven't seen anyone not lose oil cause of leaks due to failing to change PCv valve and having to install a catch can.
I live in the UK my work van only gets a oil change every 21k miles wouldn't want to be the next owner.I service all my VW vehicles at 9k found hengst filters to be very good BMW OE .
You are 1000% right. My wife has a 2023 RAV4, I change the oil and filter every 5000 miles Full Syn. I have a 2003 ford f-150 supercrew 4x4 only 120,000 miles bought new. Drive it 16 miles around time to work. Change oil every 3,000 miles multi-syn.
I built a Chevy 350 engine 36 years ago. It has hundreds of thousands of hard miles on it today and still works perfect. I change the oil once a year and use Mobile One synthetic.
Yeah, and a cow jumped over the moon.
I agree with your recommendations. I do my own Oil changes at 5K with full synthetic with Trans fluid changes at 40K and my Toyota & Mazda vehicles last over 250K miles.
My fords and hondas have had 250k 370k when I sold them t get something different
Yup! That's good, i rarely go over 5,000m myself & v.rarely indeed over 6,000m, oil is still good 3-4,000m.
Me too- every 5k and tire rotation at the same time! Rav4 2GR V6 200K is running flawless!
So? 10k changes for me and they all last mega miles too. Not sure what your point is.
Where do you dispose of transmission fluid. I want to do this in about a year on my 2012 CRV.
Great discussion on oil service frequency. I have a 2015 4Runner (69k miles) and 2019 Avalon Hybrid (39k miles) and use Mobil 1. Both maintenance schedules say every 10k miles. I change every 5k miles. Both uses zero oil between changes. I’ll keep doing what I do, and I’ll keep both vehicles until “the wheels off” (or thereabouts, lol)!
My 2015 4Runner has 170k miles and has had 5k oil changes with Mobil 1 since new. Uses no oil and has never been to the dealer. Figure it will last another 170k with proper servicing.
Best of luck on trying to live long enough to witness the "wheels falling off" either your 4Runner or Avalon!
Same, 5k intervals on our 2022 4Runner and 2022 Tundra. My service advisor stopped reminding me I only need to do oil changes every 10k after the 3rd service.
I do 3500 mile service intervals high mileage Mobil 1 (because it has seal conditioners) 2007 4Runner. Have 295k miles. Doesn’t burn a drop of oil! Your cars will last forever. Change your oil just like you are doing.
Do you use 0W-20 or 5W-30 grade oil?
You speak absolute truth. The recommended service intervals are the bare minimum to get the car over the warranty period w/o any trouble. If you want the car to last you need to get more aggressive with the maintenance. For many manual transmissions they don't even recommend changing the fluid in them. They are lubricated "for life". That life is probably 10years/60000mi. The fluid that came out of my gearbox at 30000mi was absolutely disgusting.
Finally someone speaks the truth! You are 100% correct, I wish they’re where more mechanic shops like yours!
This is the kind of shop we all wish we had around the corner from our homes! Great information! Caters to his customers based on their individual needs! Honest and up front without all the BS!... and uses quality parts, period! I just had the oil change interval conversation with a friend of mine whom just purchased a 2018 Toyota RAV4 with only 15,000 miles. She mentioned that the oil changes are every 10,000 miles, but I know that she keeps her vehicles until the wheels fall off, so I told her to make sure to do it every 5000 miles and to make sure they are using a good quality filter! I reminded her of when I had my 2008 BMW 335i which recommended oil changes every 15,000 miles! I know... I know... I didn't know then what I know now! I started having issues with the car about 3000 miles after the warranty expired, to the point where I simply got rid of the car. Thank you for posting videos like this. Keep it up my friend!
I love your perspective regarding the manufacturers and your own place in the arena you work in. As a scientist I'm concerned about the chemistry and the specifications, not the brands or marketing. I'll choose a full synthetic oil, but I'll get it from Costco or wherever is least expensive. But I'll change the fluids in that car at one half the manufacturer's intervals. Fluids are inexpensive, cars are not.
Here in the EU it states in the owners manual to do a "mellan service" in hard driving condition, is it not the same there in America?
It seems that your "mellan service" is intended as an intermediate service between regularly scheduled service intervals. Here in the US, our manuals usually refer to this as "severe service." So yes, essentially the same.@@markwarnberg9504
Claims to be a scientist, changes oil at half the manufacturer's intervals. Gullible mug is more what I'd say you are.
As an engineer, that's EXACTLY what I do w/ respect to oil selection. I run Walmart's and Costco's, and no issues whatsoever. Multiple videos online demonstrate both are in fact good oils.
As a fellow Engineer, I get slightly offended when people try to make these anecdotal arguments. It completely ignores the most difficult variable to plan for; the average consumer.
And people don't seem to understand that.
Of COURSE you see engines blowing up if the owner says they "did their maintenance at regular intervals.".....and that would be because no one sticks to the regular intervals.
People are busy, they have work, they have kids, they don't have a second car and cannot afford to have one down for any given amount of time, they're broke, whatever. But there's always something where they stretch out the maintenance or forget or they haul without telling their tech or they try to ford a river, whatever. Life happens and mechanicals suffer.
I have an 1989 F150 that I owned for over 30 years. I used synthetic and changed oil between 3000 and 5000. I recently took the motor out and planned on rebuilding it to put in another vehicle. When I third into it and even the factory original cross hatching that they did to seat the rings was still visible. I just put the motor back together put it in another rig and am driving it today. It has to have nearly 300,000 miles, like new compression, uses no oil and runs fine. Oil is pretty cheap if you figure the cost per mile and is excellent insurance. Plus it is very easy to do yourself. Used to be if you used a quart every 1000 miles, it was time for a ring job
Mine got 250k km on it, changed oil every 15k miles. Still has the honing on it (cross hatch you mentioned) You can also change your oil evry 1k miles the result will be the same. You don´t need to change it 4x a year, that´s silly.
I use Walmart SuperTech 0-20 in my 5th gen 4runner and I change it every 3000 miles! Project Farm tested many oils, and SuperTech was right at the top for performance! It costs around half of the other "brand name oils" so 3000 miles is economically reasonable!! Cheap insurance!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Corolla Hybrid SE AWD - 4 month intervals / Calgary, AB Mobil 1 OW-16 + Toyota Filter
January, February, March, April
May, June, July, August
Sept, Oct, November, December
5,000 kilometers = 3,125 miles ✅
6,000 kilometers = 3,750 miles ✅
7,000 kilometers = 4,375 miles ✅
8,000 kilometers = 5,000 miles ✅
Im partial to Mobile1 synthetic 0w20 from Walmart 😂 and change my 2020 4Runner every 5k miles. I saw his video in that too and learned a ton of things about oil and additive packages. Also learned that synthetic oil doesn't need changing annually, it can be done at 5k -7k with no major issues. My 4runner only has 13,800 miles and dont drive it much. Watching his video on under using the synthetic oil was nothing but a wast because it still had life left.
Great video. I am an aircraft mechanic and doing my own oil changes. ( on airplane you have to change on 50 hours….) I just follow the logic.
That is actually a good point, it is motor time that matters, not mileage. I am told synthetic oils are aimed at 250-300 motor hours usage
@@dmitripogosian5084 Hello. Oil and filters are so cheap. No point not to change often
Late to this video but it was great. One thing no one has commented on is engine IDLE hours. 1 hohr of idling equals 30 miles of driving. Thats why when I set up oil intervals on our fleet vehicles and my own its 5,000 miles 250 hours or 3 months. No exceptions. Never lost an engine and I overseen over 800 pieces of equipment on and off road. Good oil, filters, and intervals you will not go wrong. Love what you do and respect your values!
I personally think it’s engine dependent. The ford f150 5.0 is a normally aspirated engine with close to 9qt oil capacity. I would be comfortable going 7,500-10,000 miles with full synthetic. On my Raptor I have a 3.5 eco boost with a 6qt capacity. I change the oil every 3,000 miles with AMSOIL 100% synthetic. I know that’s probably a waste of money but that’s what I like to do. I just feel a twin turbo engine with a smaller oil capacity should have the oil changed sooner than a NA V8 with a large capacity oil capacity.
I watched an autopsy of that engine and the one thing that kills them is oil starvation to the turbos. The RUclips channel is called I Do Cars. There are two cigarette shaped filters that are in the block that feed oil to the turbos. When those get clogged it kills the turbos. I think you are on the right track short of changing those filters out.
of course! The problem is 100%, "what get washed down into the crankcase" and turns into an acid /steam(condensation, which will then circulate up thru the internals(gaskets & seals) thru PCV and bypass ALL the essential filtration systems of ANY ICE. Change the oil 4K and use a oil catch can/filter on every ICE! Thank Me later!,,, Military Mechanic
@@richardwilson5709 What is a catch can filter?
Great reasoning.!
Also don't forget are your trips short or LOOONG ?
Highway miles are easier due to steady state.
I've had tremendous results using Supertech Full Synthetic oil or Mobil 1 alternatively, with Supertech filters / Fram Ultra In my Regal TourX 2.0 Turbo (6 qt sump) & Mercedes ML500 (V8 w 9qt sump) SUV + e320 wagon (V6 w 9qt sump)
Go about 7,000 miles in both & change to new filter at 3,500 halfway there !
Synthetics are uber durable as long as kept clean & filtered.
Both Amsoil & Mobil have lab bench tested their Synthetics for 100k continuous running miles & found almost no degradation of viscosity #s.
So, were ok to extend things a bit IF using top quality lube & filters.
This. My Alfa Romeo is a 1.4 litre turbo they’re getting 125 kilowatts from it, so it’s fairly highly strung. It also has the dump pipe running right against the sump, and it only has 3.8 litres of oil!! The oil is hot and hard working!
It gets 7500km oil - half the recommended 15K kms interval.
I do oil changes every 3-4K miles, but try to stay as close to 3K as possible. OEM filters, and using SuperTech Full Synthetic. This is what works for me! 13 RDX and 21 4Runner!
I agree, 3000 miles
I also agree.. If the cheaper filter meets manufacturers requirements you are going to be safe. The sieve rate and filter media are pre designed to do the job .However, I believe they are designed for reduced oil change rates, and not for extended oil changes such as 7500 miles plus.. I am a believer that oil life expectancy is 3000-4500 miles in varied climates and should be changed accordingly if you want to keep your vehicle a long time.If done in this fashion most oil filters will be fine if they meet manufacturers specifications at time of purchase.I would not expect them to be fine after 4500 miles however.
I have a Nissan frontier got it new try to do as close to 3k As possible went to almost 4 . Oil is still golden a little darker than new. I bought a used Ford Transit with a 100000 not sure how often it got oil changes before me oil with a couple hundred miles was getting dark. I did a epr flush the oil didn't seem that dark I put in pensoil synthetic it's much darker than than my frontier at 3000 and it only has 2000. I don't know if it's blow by I might do another flush and a 2000 mile change it runs good no issues there. Maybe I should just leave well enough alone
Super teak oil is crap…
Your wasting your money. Full synth will easily go 7500.
I live in Las Vegas. No snow, salt or even rain.
I change oil every 3000 to keep the inside of the engine clean. My cars last virtually forever.
Valvoline synthetic and a Wix filter.
10,000 mile changes are CRAZY.
Vegas here as well, but i do 5k miles interval. Works for me so far.
Switch to AMSOIL, you’ll be able your 5070 500 miles, I had a Toyota Prius yeah I know I drove all the lot of city and I tested my oil they said I can go to 17 five on a oil change however I still changed it every 7500 miles
@@halftontimrvreviewsandtips3106 I did a test with Blackstone.
Amsoil, Pennzoil Synthetic Ultra (made from natural gas) and Valvoline Synthetic High Mile and Mobile One.
I ran each oil 5000 miles, number one was Valvoline. Best numbers, two was Pennzoil Ultra, then Amzoil, then Mobile One.
Amsoil was very good, they were all very good, but Valvoline was the clear winner. Had the most additives left, best wear numbers.
You should change oil every gas fill up…just to be safe
10K is too long but 3K on full synthetic is ridiculous too. 5-6K is a good medium.
I watch a YT channel that is primarily a guy tearing down engines that have failed young. Most of them are due to oil issues. He shows all the bearings, VVT components, turbos, etc. Those vids opened my eyes. I trust your advice and have become a loyal watcher.
Great honest video! I’m the owner of a 04 Dodge Dakota with the 3.7 liter V-6 that I bought new with 4 miles on it. I do all my maintenance on and she’s pushing 288k miles now. It doesn’t smoke or use any oil at all. I’ve put this truck through it’s paces and it’s been the most reliable truck I’ve ever owned! My parents just bought a new Toyota suv and my dad was telling about the oil service being around 7000 miles and I told him no way in hell I would drive that many miles before a oil change , 5000 max and hopefully he’ll take my advice!
Great advice! Some ideas to lengthen engine life: Take it easy for the first 5 minutes of each drive. Avoid short run times where the engine never reaches full operating temperature. But once the engine is hot, and the trans has shifted thru all the gears, OPEN IT UP to full throttle a few times every driving trip. And obviously, never let the oil level get too low. Good luck!
I change my oil every 4000 miles with full synthetic oil , been doing that on my 2 vehicles one car is 15 years and the other 9 years both bought new. Oil is cheap engines are not!
Several full throttles every drive to lengthen engine life? Never heard that on before 🤔
@@JohnnyUtah9173mostly to burn off condensation and built up carbon
Absolutely agree with everything except full throttle operation.
@@jimiguitar3252 Italian tuning maybe?
-First oil change @ 1000 miles. Then, at 5k odometer miles, and every 5k miles afterward. (More for severe usage).
-Oem recommend viscosity in winter, one step up on the W viscosity in summer. (More film strength, due to less viscosity modifiers).
-Oil filters are genuine OEM. Or a known quality brand, provided it has the correct bypass valve psi. for that engine.
- Transmission at 5k miles. Then, at 50k odometer miles and ever 50k miles afterward. (More for severe usage).
Differentials & Transfer Cases, same as Transmission.
- Power steering every 100k.
-Coolant & Hoses, every 100k.
-Belts, every 100k-125k
-Spark plugs, every 100k-125k.
-Brake fluid every 5 years or so.
I bought my first new car in 1990. It was 1990 Pontiac Grand Am with a 2.3 liter Quad4 engine. I drove it off the dealer lot with 4 miles on it. It came with conventional oil and I did first oil change at 500 miles, then 1000, 3000, and 5000 with conventional and Fram oil filters. After 5000 miles, my oil change interval was 10,000 with Mobil 1 and Fram oil filters. I ended up junking the car at 260K miles because it was a rust bucket due to salt and snow not because engine. The engine was still running like new. I now have a Toyota Camry with 360K milles and have only used Supertech oil and Supertech oil filters. Engine and tranny are running great but might have to get rid of it due to rust. If I didn't live in Chicago, I would surely still have my 1990 Grand Am.
Awesome 👍
I dont drive much either. My 93 Chevy Cheyenne has 106k in 2006. It was my spare vehicle. I only used it to go to the hardware store or for home projects. The body started rusting out here in Western Pennsylvania. And it was time for it to go with only 127k 😢. I have a 2020 4Runner now, only 13,800 miles. It needs to last 20 years 😂 an i dont drive it in snow.
@@leechburglights I have a Nisaan Frontier that I don't use in the winter too. I wait until after a couple of good rain falls before I start driving it in spring
Great video. You know what's best for you and your customers. 30 yr vet knuckle buster, 1st year shop owner. New to the channel. You're going to make me a lot of money and a lot of happy customers. Thank you all.
Mom’s one family owned, slightly modified, ‘83 Caprice sports package, would burn 1 pint every 4,000 miles. We changed the oil at 6 months or 4k miles. We started doing 4 1/2 quarts of 10w-30 conventional with 1/2 quart of STP oil treatment. No oil loss by 4k miles.
Checking engine oil level regularly and frequently plays a significant role over merely oil & filter changes as I have seen vehicles running with the dirtiest grimiest darkest oil still chugging along problem free.
Great video. Overall I agree. I drive a lot of highway miles. Change my oil. Every 10k and I have over 400 K on my engine. Runs great. However if I did more city driving, I would probably change it around every 7K
My work car, which is an 06’ Camry sees tons of highway miles and gets the 7,000 mile treatment. However, turbo vehicles absolutely need sooner oil change intervals. 3K ideally, 5K if you absolutely have to. Yes, a quality oil will withstand the heat cycles to a degree but stop/go traffic and short trips where the engine doesn’t reach full operating temperature are things to consider as well. If you don’t want a blown turbo/engine that is.
I keep all my cars for 200k+ miles. I do almost exactly what you are saying. You give good advice on maintenance. Keep it up.
Thank You for your discussion on; "How Often Should an Oil Service Be Performed?". I agree with your philosophy 100%!
I’m aware of the manufacturer set the service interval to be attractive and not always comply to real life. IF the use of the car is abnormal like multiple cold starts and/or excessive idle etc. it’s a good thing to shorten the interval and actually this are mentioned in service bulletin, too. I would say 7000 miles is a waste of oil and money in normal driving condition.
I have a 2012 Mercedes E200 CDI, with 610000 km(385000 miles) it has always been serviced as recommended by Mercedes; oil change every 25000 km (16000 miles) doesn’t use ANY oil between service.
What I think is odd is that you recommend customers who often change their car, to skip the services.
The new economy vehicles (Yours is Not) have low tension rings (he Stated) and direct injection, that yields far better fuel mileage and lower emissions BUT more carbon and deposits in the oil. Check the Car Nut, on you tube, showing an Avalon owned by a doctor, serviced by the dealer, engine shot at 130,000, Your statements are about the exception and the exception does not prove the rule
@@thomasmorris302 Well, that is not only my experience, a lot of Mercedes vehicles has the same service record, as I been working at a dealership and know for a fact people doesn’t change oil in between services!
Love to hear you point of view I’m master technician 46 years working Asia products that had carbon coking on oil control rings on the cylinders that shut down for fuel economy then recommended 5000 oil internal and none of our customers had this issue.
I agree with you on quality filters are very important I’m still the 3000-4000 mile oil change intervals I have done this with my gas motors & diesel motors Cummins & Duramax with little to no oil consumption might be a bit drastic but definitely works for me for longevity .
3 is just too early unless it's at 250k mi
Before I retired, my round trip commute was not quite 100 miles, all but 4 miles was highway. I did an oil change every 5000 miles just because the math was easy, and I got 250,000 miles out of a 2002 Chevy Cavalier (from new), no major rebuilds. One set of tires went 107,000 miles. Oil change, regular maintenance by a mechanic you can trust are the big ones in my opinion.
Finding a mechanic you can trust !
Therein lies the problem.
wow, 100 mile commute, that's brutal.
what brand of tires?
@@drury2d8 that was a long time ago… I think they were Continentals.
(TBH, when I finally replaced them, they were getting a little squirrelly in the rain.)
@@dabneyoffermein595 it wasn’t/ didn’t seem so at the time. However now, when I go back to have lunch w/ former coworkers, it boggles my mind that I used to do that five+ times a week.
This is one of the most controversial issues concerning car owners. You ask 10 owners when they should change their oil, and you'll get 10 different answers. Years ago, I was on an airplane flight and sitting next to me was an engineer who helped design one of the engines Ford uses. I asked him his opinion about this very subject. His answer was this: Follow the manufacturers maintenance schedule for your vehicle. He said, we designed the engine. We test oils, parts and have laboratories that specifically do this. He said to use the oil (weight and Brand) that we recommend. He said issues arise when people use off brands of oil, cheap oil filters and then start adding additives to the oil. Ever since then, I have been following his recommendation. I admit, my manual says to not let the engine oil change go past 10,000 miles. I do change it around 7500 miles and use the brand of oil the manual says to use. So far, so good. Thanks for the video!
From everything I read and hear, even 7500 miles is slightly too long and 10,000 is just asking for it. I always use manuf recommended weight and grade since I think there are no "political considerations" regarding that much. But I tend to over-maintain and just ignore the manufacturer's intervals. I won't go over 5,000 miles without changing oil and usually just go by time.
I know that guy you talked to works for them but all that means is he is part of the problem. When the guy is just parroting Ford's "recommendations" despite knowing better (and if he doesn't, he's a lousy engineer) I wouldn't listen. Not to somebody that says 10,000 miles is ok for an oil change, when the people who stick to such an interval usually wind up with oil-related engine problems (which tend to happen once the warranty's expired, of course).
Few if any auto makers give a hoot in hell about their product once the warranty is over (exactly as OP says), only you do. And to people who choose to believe them - are you really sure 10,000 mile oil changes are good enough? I'm not!
I change my oil every 5k miles, when I was unemployed for a few years I changed it every 6 months because I never hit 5k miles then, drive 215k on my last car and never burned a drop, at 210k it started a small leak. Sold it 5 years ago bought my current car and as of 110k no oil burning either. Most people I know that change long intervals start burning oil between 60-75k. Most people I know changing 5k or less go into the high miles little to no consumption
I agree with everything you say in this video...spot on! You are a breath of fresh air my friend. I have always used the best oils and filters in my vehicles. For the past 20+ years I have used Mobil-1 oil with either Purolator or Wix oil filters, and changes at 5000 miles. I am firm believer in the advantages of synthetic oil and have never experienced any internal engine failures. You did not mention the oils you recommend. I would be interested in that information. This is my first visit to your channel and you make so much sense that I subscribed to hear more. I also am a subscriber to the "Ford Boss Me" channel. Rick has sent several virgin oils to Blackstone Labs for evaluation. The consensus is that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Valvoline Extended Protection have the best additive packages of those tested, with the exception of Redline. Also, Mobil-1 EP has one of the least impressive additive packages. This causes me to question if Mobil-1 EP is still the best choice for a quality synthetic oil. Would love to hear your opinion on the best oils based on your experience. Thank you for a very informative video. 👍👍 👍
Geo from Kalamazoo, MI
I always change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles. It’s more important today with these new junk quality cars coming out to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. You’re crazy if you’re not regularly changing your transmission fluid, oil, coolant, and any other fluid. Fluid degrades overtime from heat and west and tear
If im doing a lot of highway miles I go 5k towing and stop n go city driving .. 3k mainly if oil is still gold I go 5k if it is the slightest brown its done at 3k.
I'm not getting under my car every other Month and I'm certainly not paying anyone to do it. So for me 6 months or 10k will do especially considering it uses less than 1L in that time . The only exception for me would be if I would be towing it .
Yea, newer cars are cheaply made, crap half the time...why would you buy new...
3K miles holy shit it´s 3x more often than recommended. You know you can also check the fluid instead of changing it ? I bet you change it 3x more often than need be.
If that makes you happy and it works for you then when you decide to sell it give me a call.
This is the type of auto repair service you want to go too.
There isn’t a recommended service interval that is a one size fits all solution.
Knowing what your wants and needs are in the hands of an understanding and honest shop is money in the bank.
Cheers on a great post
Subscribed, you are truly no click bait! Please stay this way, my favorite RUclips mechanic I have followed for years is now full of click baits.
I totally agree. Great information. Dealerships want to sell cars and could care less how long it lasts as long as it gets out of warranty.
First off, great video and we need more honesty in vehicle services. Oil consumption can also be negated by proper engine break-in when the vehicle is new. I've owned most mentioned in your video, every single time I start out with a new rig, I do an engine break in. I run the oil that came with the vehicle for 500 miles, change it when it's hot (tolerably hot) refill, run it for 1,500 miles, change it again, run it up to 3,000 miles, change it again but this time I will install a premium synthetic oil. I've never had an engine consume oil. On multiple break-in oil changes, what is happening is the micro metal particles from the engine completing it's break-in are flowing around in the oil acting like sandpaper and is creating more wear. every third oil change after break in, I use the same oil but a high mileage blend which has seal conditioners in it, same oil but includes conditioners for the seals and keeps the elasticity in the seals and keeps them from drying out.
Absolute rubbish. Wow you talk a lot of crap. Oil hold contaminants in suspension, that is one of it's 4 jobs, as well as lubrication, reducing friction and dissipating heat. It's nit the 1980s anymore you don't need to do a break in change. First one at 10k is perfectly fine. Damn you waste a lot of good oil. And money 🤦🤣
I absolutely agree with you. Common sense and experience rule the day here. It's unfortunate that oil, oil changes, and filters have become such a debated subject. It is obvious that the manufacturer is going to want the longest interval. It is also obvious there have been so many instances of 10K-15K oil changes causing issues with carboned rings, sludge, etc. I have newer model Toyotas which have 10K OCI and I typically do changes 6-8K, Usually ending up at about 7K. I keep all my daily use vehicles as long as I can and typically sell at 200-250K miles. Never had any significant oil issues over the years. Can you do 10K oil changes? Sure you can, but it is not a good plan for a long term vehicle.
yep. Soooo many ppl who do the oil lab tests, those testing co's have databases of all the same engines and it's easy to see that after around 7 or 8K miles on many brands/models, the oil rapidly degrades to the point of losing viscosity (raising viscosity too high usually) among other degradation factors. Some engines degrade the oil by 5K, so it just depends on the engine design, and the usage.
@@18_rabbit Blackstone Labs has told me that I can extend my 15,000 mile oil change interval to 17,000 miles on my 2017 Cummins Ram after testing two of my samples with 15,000 miles on them. They of course have a huge data base for my Cummins 6.7.
Thanks for the video. I bought a new car and changed the oil at 7 thousand miles and i never changed it again. Its inportant to change your oil early. One and done
I love your mindset, sir. I wish more guys still thought this way. Sustainability is better in the long run than the gimmicks to save a little gas just to throw away an entire car at a quarter of the life of an old gas guzzler.
Very clear and helpful advice. Thanks, Tom.
Most manufacturers list a "severe service" (and also "extreme service") maintenance schedule. I recommend starting in the severe interval range, and adjust up or down from there based on vehicle use, history, and oil analysis. Any fleet or multi-driver vehicle should be considered severe (or extreme) service automatically. Edit: At a minimum, use the recommended oil TYPE and Grade- if owners manual says use 5W30 SN plus/SP, use that (or higher API level). If it specifies DEXOS, use oil rated for that (usually full synthetic) For diesels, it's more complicated. Unless type FA-4 oil is Specified, you should use CK-4. Why? Because they are different applications. In some cases, you can use CK-4 where FA-4 is Specified, but rarely the other way around. Always consult the Manufacturer for details and TSBs for your specific VIN regardless of engine type.
Great discussion!!! Very educational and honest.
Totally agree, frequent oil changes with a good quality filter is inexpensive insurance to keep a motor running in good shape and for a longer period of time. I personally like to go about 5 to 6K miles in my cars and trucks.
I do full synthetic change every 5k miles or 6 months personally.
On the topic of fluids, a lot of modern manufacturers call their transmission fluid "lifetime fluid" as well. I got lucky and still have a drain plug and fill hole for my transmission and you better believe i do a drain and fill every 30k miles.
As a great youtube mechanic once said...oil is cheap engines are expensive 😂 5k miles for me!
Oil is cheaper than engine replacement.... I have never gone over 5k ever...
This is accurate. 3,500, 5000 and 7,500. Don't go past 7,500. The first number is for the perfectionists out there and you will never have consumption or break down issues. 5000 is theoretically your max with synthetic period. However if you have good climate conditions and a majority of highway driving, you can get away squeezing it to about 7,000 with a quality filter. I change mine between 3k and 5k with decent filters. Watch videos on oil breakdown and lab results. That will give you science over stipulation so you can decide what's best for you. Thanks for the video.
I use amsoil 5w-30 signature on both my vehicles and change the oil every 12,000 miles my 1997 7.5 liter f-250 has over 300K miles and my 2016 Honda civic 1.5 turbo is at 200K miles and they’re running just fine .
Blackstone Labs disagrees with you. I have sent them two samples of oil from my 2017 Cummins Ram 3500 with 15,000 miles on the oil. They told me the additive package was still fine, and that I could extend the interval to 17,000 miles.
I agree with this video. I have 335,000 miles on my ‘08 Honda Accord w 2.4L. I used to go to 15% left on my maintenance minder which typically ~8,000 miles. Now that it’s high mileage I’ve gone a bit earlier between 5,000-6,000 miles just to keep peace of mind to get me well over 400,000 miles. Throughout life of vehicle, used Mobil 1, Amsoil SS, and now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Gonna stay on my 5,000-6,000 OCI. Love this video!
Also… in order to keep oil consumption down I use 5w-20 4 qts and 1 qt of 5w-30. Both PUP. With Purolator Boss oil filter. Works great and I use about 1 qt per OCI from a consumption standpoint.
One of the most honest automotive channel there is. Thank you for that.
I do 6 months or 5000 miles. I own a Chevy with a 3.6 and these engine timing chains are very sensitive to long oil change intervals. From what I read, many chains (there are 3) are needing replacement at around 120,000 at the most. With my car it will be interesting if I get more mileage out of the chains with more frequent changes. I use full synthetic oil and Napa Gold filters.
Good luck will be interesting to see how it does
I have a 2008 Pontiac with that engine. I was told 5K on synthetics from the dealer and to disregard the oil life monitor.
Weak oil is the main contributor to timing chain failure. My car has 120K on it and the timing is still good
"G.M." was great for using aluminum/ nylon tooth cam sprockets that would "FAIL" but "G.M." did not care, due to the fact that when the cam would jump timing, the vehicle was out of warranty., I always replaced the chain, and the sprockets with steel. "G.M." claimed that they used the nylon sprockets for noise reduction. when I replaced with steel sprockets, I did not hear any abnormal noise. G.M." also had issues with "SOFT" cams, and the lobes would wear off, causing no valve lift. the owner would complain that there was an engine "MISS".
It won't last 120k with 5k oil change intervals
@@clb_52 mine has. It’s 15 years old.
It depends on the driving. I attribute the 43mpg I achieved at the time I finally sold my 07 Civic at 402,000mi due to the fact that I never missed an oil change ....and...that most of that was highway driving. My OCI was 8,000mi. When the dealer confirmed the catalytic was shot at 380,000, they were shocked: 200k was common, 300k was rare...I went nearly 400k. Pennzoil from natural gas and a Mobil filter (and K&N for a few years). My girlfriend's 05 Highlander and my '18 Camry get driven around a city mostly...and my '12 civic is a manual: all of those I follow 5k oci.
I agree with your reasoning. I change the oil every 6 months at 5k miles with regular oil. If I use synthetic, then I change the oil once a year or at 6-7k miles. I always use a good filter, usually Wix, even if I have to provide it to the oil change facility myself. For my Toyota Highlander, I go to a local car wash /lube center to get my oil changed. They only carry cheap $2 filters. In matter of fact, they only credit you $2 when you provide your own filter. For my Porsch Panamera 4s, I go to a reputable independent Euro-car shop that uses Liquimoly oil and filters exclusively. I find that manufacturers recommend longer intervals due to them wanting to keep the advertise costs to run the vehicle low. Dealers and lube facilities want to make $ and recommend intervals that are way too short. It's all about using common sense. I would never leave oil in any car longer than 7500 miles! Period! Especially in a German car with hot V twin turbos!
The $2 credit doesn't necessarily dictate the value of the filter. The shop's likely just retaining their profit by ONLY crediting you that amount. Having watched MANY RUclips videos on oil filter cut-opens and reviews, the only filter that gave cause for concern was the company with orange filters and starts with an "F." All the others are shockingly similar. It is true that if you spend~>=$12 for a premium filter that you'll get a better overall product, but the difference isn't all that striking, as it turns out.
We use Liquimolly oil for most oil changes in our small shop, good product especially for cars like Audi or BMW, which are oil sensitive and bad for timing chains. Our recommended OCI is about 50% of the manufacturers recommended mileage, more or less 8-10k km max. in Canadian conditions close to Upper State NY. We did many CR-Vs engine re-rinnging and replacement and all were due to 'baked' rings syndrome. Some of the CR-Vs engines are still in very good shape, especially the well maintained ones, not taking any oil all.
This is what I've had good luck with. Full synthetic for naturally aspirated around 5k, turbocharged engine I do 3 to 3.5K. Filter every time, agree filter quality matters. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1. If engine has 150K or more miles decrease interval by about 1k. I switch drain plug out to magnetic type. Change it while hot, take extra time to look for other issues underneath, let oil drain until it barely drips. Most importantly if doing yourself be safe under vehicle. I have change oil in my F-150 and noticed one of the plastic ramps I had splitting while underneath (I use steel now)
I run 4 vehicles, 2 4WDS a Campervan and a Commercial Van. I change the oil every 6 months or 5,000 Kilometers. My Campervan (a Toyota HiAce has done 515,000 Kilometers and is still running beautifully.
The best time to change is about every 7K miles and change with a new, high quality oil filter, but this is for 100% Synthetic Oil, because it lasts longer and stays clean longer. Also, it's more slippery. I have 320,000 on one vehicle and it never uses a drop of oil during long road trips.
I use synthetic oil and change at 5,000 miles. The main reason is that 5,000 mile intervals are easy to remember and I think 10,000 is a little on the long side. I am sure the oil is good for 7,500, but who wants to try to remember that the next oil change is at 37,500 rather than 42,500? Every 5K is very easy to remember and keeping things simple is usually better.
Exactly! I started changing my oil every 5,000 miles according to the odometer just in the last few years, but now I never have to try to remember how many miles it has been. I don’t have to rely on those windshield stickers. I don’t know why it took me so long to learn this.
Good point: Living in Canada with the metric system makes this super easy. I change oil and filter every 10,000 km (6200miles). So next change will be 190,000km on my 17 Outback. It’s not an oil burner like my 11 and 14 Foresters were. All have ( had) the 2.5 DOHC.
Some of the oil life monitoring systems, when the vehicle is used in Canada in cold weather, will call for an oil change after 2500 miles. Cold starting at -35 to -40 is very hard on engine oil. It gets diluted with gas from all of the time running when not up to operating temperature.
I have a 2021 Jeep (Pentastar V6 gas). Am here in too-warm TX right now (going back to colder CO in 2 years) and as I did with my 2016 Honda Pilot earlier, I get the oil & filter change done when the Oil Life "maintenance-minder" gets to zero (and do a tire-rotation also). That seems to happen around 5K+/- miles -- which seems to be a decent interval, ESPECIALLY since I use full synthetic -- so I don't do a "fixed mileage" oil/filter changes anymore. Or even a fixed time.
-- BR
@@DaveP-uv1ml IMO, taking it in at 15% Oil Life on the "Maintenance Minder" (as Honda calls it, not sure what Jeep's name for their dash-reminder is) is one of the many dealership ploys to get you into Service as often as possible, even if you don't NEED it.
When I do oil-changes on my own (or take it in to the dealer but bring my own oil & filter) I use Mobil 1 (full synthetic, not like Jeep's synthetic-blend oil -- very GOOD oil but not FULL synthetic as I prefer) "Extended Performance" which is good for 20K miles -- outrageous! And my Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter is also good for 20K miles.
Doubly outrageous!!
However, I look at those numbers as "headroom" (a cushion/fudge-factor, if you will) to play with re: exactly WHEN I take my Jeep in for an oil-change, when the Oil Life hits 0% regardless of the odometer reading...but which just happens to be around 5K miles. Even if it's 5500-6000miles by the time Oil Life gets to 0%, there's PLENTY of oil life (and filter) protection left that I could let it go to 10-15K miles and not worry. Of course, I WON'T let it go that long, jsut saying I'm not AT ALL worried about any harm done to my engine when I let it go to 0% and it's around ~5K miles since my last oil/filter change. I had that same policy with my previous cars that had a Oil Life reminder (like my 2016 Honda Pilot EX-L AWD).
"Jeep Wave"
...even if you don't have a Jeep, or a Ford Bronco: Yes, I wave at them, too, but hardly see any around here. Even if I do see one and wave, they have no clue what the Jeep Wave is ("It's a Jeep thing") and why I would be waving at them...as there isn't a "Bronco Wave" -- but there SHOULD be, if Ford's Marketing/PR department wasn't asleep at the wheel. After all, lots of the Bronco design copied the Jeep...you'd think Ford would ALSO copy the Jeep Wave. ;-)
-- BR
Couldn't agree more. I live in the UK and manufacturer's service intervals are ridiculous here. Most private buyers of new cars trade them in after 3 or at most 4 years and don't suffer the consequences of these service intervals. I've just retired and sold my Doblo Cargo van. The service interval on it was 21000 miles or 2 years. This is mad. it's a turbo diesel and thrashes the oil.
I love your philosophy!
I haven't lived where car ownership was a practical option for a lot of years, but back when I did, my philosophy was that I wouldn't feed my family crummy food, so why would I "feed" my car crummy oil and crummy filters? I never found a shop that I trusted to actually follow through, so I did most of my oil changes by myself.
In my young days, 3000 miles was still almost the universal recommendation, but I think that had changed by the time I was in my twenties. I used to set my target for 5000 miles, knowing that I would get busy and put it off until 6K or 7K, anyway.
I own an AFM 5.3 liter with 283,000 miles. Oil change interval 3000 Miles. Still has Original Cam and AFM lifters. That's how to avoid engine damage. The price of my oil and filter is still less than an engine replacement.
Right there with you. Bought my ‘07 Sierra brand new and at 247,000 she’s still going strong. AFM and all.
An 07 is different....the newer ones are garbage
No, newer chevys are garbage. I've seen them with like 17k miles that needed lifters.
Great video and so true. My shop recommends 3k on non synthetic and 5k on synthetic. Hondas have a "maintenance minder" and i have customers that go by that and change between 10 and 15k and i can tell you this when it comes time to adjust the valves i can tell you who does 5k services and those that change at 5 usually dont have oil burning issues. As far as filters its OE.
But the 10-15K cars are still fine. It's a complete waste to change your oil at 5K miles, if it's 10K recommended and you use good synthetic. It would take hundreds of thousands of miles to see a difference, if ever and by that point the car would have many other issues before that.
@@micker9830as I stated before. When it comes time to adjust the valves on a Honda, which is all I work on, I can tell the difference in customers who service at 5 and those that service at 15. The valves are usually adjusted around 110k. The internals are much cleaner and not "gunky" if routinely serviced at 5k and I have most complaints of oil burning from those that service at 10-15k. . I dont by any means pressure my customers to change every 5k miles but if they intend on trying to keep the car forever I recommend every 5k and I have customers who have 250-300k miles and dont burn a drop and have super clean internals. Compared to those that do 10-15k and have 150k that burn 2-4 quarts and have nasty internals. Just stating what I see with my customers cars.
@@smokinwithskruggs Thats the older cars. The new cars are designed for very thin synthetic oil and don't need to be changed before the recommended interval, which is usually 10k or so. Good full synth oil will not have lost any viscosity or properties, so why would changing it early help anything?
@micker9830 I am talking about Hondas that use 0W20 Synth oil. Honda has been using that since 2005 so I don't know what you consider a newer vehicle. You want to tell your customers to change their oil every 15k have at it. Like I said I don't push my customers I just give them facts of what I see in my other customers cars. I've seen oil come along ways as a mechanical of 48 years but real life and what's on paper is two different things in my opinion. Changing your oil more leads to longer, cleaner running engines. Just my opinion.
@@micker9830 The GDI engines are dirty engines. I did 7k once and never again.
I use full synthetic in all of my cars. I change the oil every 10K miles. I've never had an engine fail and I get well over 300K miles from each of them.
As long you are changing your own oil yes you can go 1 year 10k oci no doubt. People who go to jeffylube and that kind of quick lube places to change their oil, even 5k oci won't help their engine to survive longer. So in my opinion as long you are changing your own oil with quality oil and filter, you can go 10k oci
On the other hand, you could use a regular mineral oil with the same API spec required by manufacturer of the engine and replace it every 3 months or 3,000 Miles or 5,000 Km and still save money!
@@rbruce63 I'm lazy.
@@rbruce63It’s the oil. Synthetic is 1000 times better than dinosaur juice
My bet is they are mainly highway driven ?
Great video. I agree with everything you said, 100%. I’ve always wondered about why the service intervals were exaggerated the way they are. Then you hit the nail on the head: low cost of ownership. If a manufacturer can coerce you into believing that their vehicles do not require too much maintenance-or money-then it is a good vehicle. While that may be true to some extent, it is precisely the excuse they need to push a new vehicle on you if and when something does go wrong. People often forget that these corporations are there to take our money, not to help us save it!
I appreciate the in-depth dive into this debated topic. I’ve conducted oil analyses on my personal vehicles which have reveals the compromises of direct injection and low piston ring tension. Varying levels of fuel dilution. I’ve used these reports to determine my own oil change intervals. Vehicle variability, environment, and driving style should all be considered.
I'm a big advocate of time and mileage based maintenance on vehicles. Say an elderly couple owns a vehicle and only goes to and from the grocery store and church just up the street a few times a week. That engine may never get up to full operating temperature. If that's the case the oil change needs to be done more frequently to protect the engine from slugging. In the end ever car and owner is a unique situation and needs to be evaluated as such. If it were up to me I would talk to the customer and tell them we are going to monitor your oil during the change intervals. Have them stop by one ever few weeks and inspect the level and condition of the oil. At 4k miles change it and see what it looks like if good add another 500 miles or subtract 500 miles. Keep adjusting themselves until y out reach the just right spot for each situation. But on the flip side you have to have a customer who is willing to be that dedicated and loyal to your shop to make it work for them.
You are correct. Many years ago we had an elderly lady who had a early to mid 80s Honda. She only drove it in our downtown area, very small area. We had to change her oil every 400, that's hundred, miles because you could smell the fuel in the oil. It was a carburetored model so that didn't help.
Low tension piston rings combined with aluminum blocks will have more sealing issues than cast iron blocks. For me personally, 5k is the max. Oil changes are cheaper than hard part replacements like engines.
Since a majority of owners never open the hood on their vehicles, modern engines that use a quart of oil every 2 to 3 thousand miles have very little oil left in them at 10K oil change intervals. Since many components in today's engines function with oil pressure, you may be sure that that engine will fail prematurely.
It's not low tension rings. It's GDI abrasive soot and fuel dilution of the oil. Just do search on those issues. OEMs want consumers to think it's a simple ring issue so they can cut thier losses. I haven't seen an all aluminum block since the Vega, yes we had one. Modern cars have steel cylinder liners.
I change my own oil. I even kind of like doing it. I've never heard of a problem from changing oil too often, so that's the side I err on. I am now applying the same philosophy to automatic transmission fluid (if I got the car new or under 60k miles).
Changing it too often may be a problem with cheap oil. Part of the oil will degrade faster and create ashes/deposits on the engine. So if you do 3000mi and use cheap oil then you might want to reconsider and buy great oil and do it every 5000mi.
@@johnnyblue4799 It tends to be 4k-6k, except for a car I rarely drive and I change that full synthetic oil once a year. The others are also full synthetic API SN Plus certified. If I can get it I also use the same oil but in the high mileage Dexos 1 certified oil for GM cars. Typically I use Wix filters. Those were the good certifications as I understood it. Are these what you call great oil, or should I be looking at something else? Thanks.
Better with cheaper oil more often than more expensive oil less less often. 71 retired been doing this for over 50 years plus
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh 50 years ago you did not have solenoids for variable valve timing and not many cars came with turbo. You probably had carburetors and no EGRs either. A bit of sludge was not that detrimental and also the best oil then would be outperformed by cheap oils today. Both oil and engine technology changed a lot. 3000 miles drain interval today would be overkill. I wouldn't do 10000, anywhere between 5 and 7 is perfectly fine with good synthetic. Also, 50 years ago 100k miles was probably a decent lifespan for an engine, but that's totally not acceptable today.
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh Right. As long as the oil meets or exceeds the OEM's requirements for the API certification, viscosity, etc., you're in the clear. The rest is just marketing and snake oil. "Cheap" oils should only refer to those that don't comply with the American Petroleum Institute's standards, which are quite rare these days and are seldom used in the real world.
Good advice and breakdown of how dealers and manufacturers recommend their services for perception of reliability to the customer.
Manufacturer recommendations are one size fits all and don't take into account location and driving style. Proper oil changes are never a waste of money because it is cheap insurance against replacing an engine.
An absolutely superlative video. I own a 2008 SAAB 9-5, bought new for $17,000 in 2012 as a leftover after GM cut them loose. It now has 135,000 miles. I live in Manhattan and do a lot of stop and go driving.
Since new I change my Mobil 1 0w-40 and Mann filter every 3000-4000 miles. I buy my filters in bulk. They run about $6.00 each. I buy my oil at Walmart for $22.97...and more often than not with a $10.00 rebate.
I bring the oil and filter to my indy SAAB Master Tech, and he charges $25.00 to do the change. So I basically pay--at the most--$220 a year for oil changes. Per 3000-3500 miles, I don't burn any oil whatsoever, and that's on a turbocharged engine.
On a side note, since new, with parts, labor, preventative maintenance, fluids, tires, suspension and exhaust, I've spent $5,300...or $378 per year. That's pretty good over 14 years.
So even if a major repair happens, I will still pay to have it fixed. A timing chain job is about $700. Turbocharger is $750. Rebuilt transmission is $1,400. Sure beats buying a new car for $40,000.
got a Saab 9-3 estate 1.9td with 242,000 miles! Engine is absolutely fine never used oil changed every 6,000! Down side is the electrics have thrown a wobbly so have parked it up! Am in the UK
rebuilt trans for 1400. lol
@@bennye862 Actually Benny, that's what a friend with a 2007 9-5 paid. My independent SAAB master tech said he would just swap in a used one.
Easy fix. Check wires for the ECU. A mechanic will check the wires and fix it in a couple of hours. @@mrmick4757
Auto makers may want the oil change intervals stretched out, but garages and oil manufacturers want it shorter so they can make more money, so you’re darned if you do, darned if you don’t.
I live in Las Vegas. No snow, salt or even rain.
I change oil every 3000 to keep the inside of the engine clean.
10,000 mile changes are CRAZY.
3000 is even CRAZIER🤷🏽♂️
@@willg.5168perhaps when you realize that these extended maintenance intervals are written by marketing and not engineers, you may not think it’s crazy.
@@a3300000 the sweet spot would be about the 5000 mark. Oils are too advanced to dump out at 3000 is all I'm saying. If we were still in the Carter days, then 3000 would be spot on
Oils are SO much more advanced now than 30 years ago. If you had your oil analyzed at 5,000, 7,500 and 10,000 miles, you’d find with very few exceptions that the oil would be fine at 10,000 miles. Navy ships, locomotives, long haul trucks and stationary generator systems all use long drains, even 4 years of use. They all have bypass filter systems to keep the oil clean. Cars could easily go 10,000 miles with a bypass filter. Amsoil sells them.
@@darrylsjodin7184 thanks for the clarification 🙂
I do agree with you, I also do more transmission service than most people do. My last car had 180,000 mile and the transmission failed, ( service every 50,000 mile) the oil changes were every 5 k mile. The engine was great but the cost of the transmission was worth more than the value of the car. I now service my transmission once a year.
Thanks for your concise description of real cost of ownership of quality vehicles. I agree with your business model and follow this process on all my private DIY work. Cheers. Retired Pro Import Guy/