As the proud owner of the worst ratio'd Gunpla handpainting video on RUclips, I must say, great work my friend! I wish this video existed when I started handpainting! I'd love to have you on my show to talk Gunpla sometime!
Always nice to see someone brush paint. I choose brush over air for various reasons. I find I have to ‘learn’ each colour as the amount of dilution and number of coats for a good finish varies
It’s a more relaxing way to paint for me, airbrushing is a bit less “personal”. I agree on what you’re saying about learning the colors. That’s where the sp00n really becomes an essential tool.
nice work! I'm a brush painter and i like seeing how other folks go about gunpla painting. I haven't heard of these paints before, I'm going to look into them more
Wow the algorithm actually doing good work for once! This is exactly the stuff I’m looking for. At my current place I’m unable to airbrush but past forays into brushing have left me disappointed. Currently I’ve got a backlog and really considering just straight building with light panel lining. The perfectionist in me wants these kit to look their absolute best so I really really want to paint them, I’m just really hesitant man.
Thanks! I’m the same, I love to have the best result I can! Unfortunately I just can’t paint everything, there’s not enough time. But I try to have at least the inner frame done which already makes the model look so much better.
Loved your guide! I'll start my first custom kit in a few days and this guide made me learn some things I didn't know! Thanks, man, and greetings from Venezuela!
@@TeaandGunplaThanks, bud! Btw, I've got a question, do you have any other options for coating instead of sheik's? I can't buy sheik mainland paints and coating here. Are they the same as Vallejos varnishes or do you recommend me to use other brands?
You can absolutely use Vallejo colors and varnishes. Vallejo acrylics work exactly the same. They are just a bit more thick than SM, so you should thin them a bit more. Maybe do some testing on spoons until you find the right mix
Hey friend, great guide! Another method you can use is painting with makeup sponges. It gives you a really, really nice finish that is very close if not comparable to airbrush. There's a fellow on youtube that used to do it called "Healing-Pla," though he's not been posting videos as of late. I've been testing it on spoons and it's really nice. I use a combination of brushes and sponges now a days.
Thank you so much. I’ve been intrigued by the sponge painting, tbh. It’s totally something I want to try as soon as I have some time, which is not a lot lately!
Hi.. nice video! i might have missed it.. but just want to ask: 1. what brand of acrylic paint did you use ? 2. what brush type/ number (if there is) would you usually use ?
Thank you! The paint’s brand is SM (Sheik Mainland). It’s a Chinese brand that you find on AliExpress. I usually use a 7mm and 10mm pointy brushes and a 8mm flat brush. If I need to detail really small parts I use a 5mm thin tip
You can use painters tape to mask the areas you don't want to be painted to get crips lines. I only painted one of my kits and only had a spray paint that was safe for plastic that wasn't hobby paint. It turned out great, but you have to spray very very light and be about a foot away from it.
Thank you! The times really varies depending on the paint and how much is applied. Making really thin coats it usually take less than a minute to be ready. After I finish a coat I start another piece and, by the time I’m done with it, the first is ready for the next layer. Anyway, just look at the paint, if it’s not shiny anymore you can proceed with painting again.
Thanks for a great video! I’m looking to start hand painting as well. I was wondering instead of the black panel lining paint you used, can I use the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color? Would it still rub out with water?
Thank you for watching! Unfortunately you can’t use an enamel panel liner like the Tamiya. Water will not clean it at all and the cleaner (or other products like lighter fluid) will ruin both the gloss coating and the paint. The acrylic black filler/wash is the best and safest option
@@TeaandGunplaThank you! I don’t have access to the brand you used. What product would you recommend to get the same effect (for the gloss coat and acrylic black filler)?
I know, you can get them only on AliExpress if you’re in the western world. I would suggest for the filler/wash amzn.eu/d/czwOkeA and for the gloss coat amzn.eu/d/esambQT The shops are only for reference, I found them with a quick google search
I did some experimenting and you can use a nail polish top coat to top coat your kits! And it brings out the paint even more! You don’t need to spend big money on top coat. I understand people will probably say otherwise but you need to try it
@@TeaandGunpla it was my only alternative since I don’t have the luxury of using spray cans at my home lol and I don’t feel like going outside to spray 😆
it's a beautiful video, I really love the tutorial, Until this time I used to the Tamiya sprays TS, but the spray it's very expesive, so, I thinking about use the brush and acrilycs paints, but, most of the videos about gunpla and model kits in general use a airbrush, and I don't want to use Airbrush, so this video it's very clear about the painting with brushes. Sorry for the low level of inglish, Greetings from México.
@@TeaandGunpla thank's, I honest enjoy the video, the explanation it's so clear, actually I buy a sintetyc brushes of Rodin, I just need the acrylic paint of tamiya
Metallic paints are a bit tricky and I’ll sure make an in depth video about them in the future. Tips I can give are: make sure you’re using a black primer, the first coat should be almost a dry brushing, the second coat onwards should be regular and nicely thinned. Practice is the best advice I can give tho :)
There isn’t a specific brand that you need to use. They all come down to your preference. Any acrylic will work, if thinned properly. Some will give you better results, of course. I would suggest to start with what you have available near you and to order better ones online in case you’re really unsatisfied
Yes. Make sure the paint doesn't dry on the brush. You can use different cups of water, to keep them clean, or running water. You can use your palm or a second brush to clean them trough
Thanks for giving me the confidence to finally tackle painting my MG MK II and FM Aerial. Can you also make a tutorial about painting whites with a brush?
Glad you liked the video. The Gundam MkII is one of my favourite designs ever, like almost all the ones from Z Gundam! I hope it will turn out perfect. What would you like to know? To paint white you just need a white primer and a lot, a lot of coatings! But if you have any question feel free to ask, if I make a video about it wont be very soon unfortunately.
@@TeaandGunpla Thank you. I myself really like UC timeline MS designs and the MKII is a solid design. I like how bulky and almost like a Grunt Suit it looks. Usually when I paint white, like when I started working on my HG Revive RX 78, I sprayed surface primer Gray on it and applied multiple layers of white. I felt like I used too many layers and sort of clogged up the details and looked too thick. Should I have instead used White Primer instead of Surface Primer?
I’m so sorry, for some reasons I missed the second part of your comment! I think you made 2 mistakes. The first is not using white primer. Make sure you spray only a thin layer. Then you will need less white color coatings to get your result, and everything will be smoother Make sure your color is nicely thinned , which will help with preserving the details
hello from central Mexico..I just watched your video on panel lining gundam... looked at all comments... still have a question... I have primed and painted my kit Vallejo acrylics, then put Tamiya Acrylic X22 Gloss,Clear QUESTION.. can I use tamiya enamel panel liner... and with WHAT do I clean it off with? zippo, airbrush cleaner, iso 95% to 99%? so that the acrylic gloss coat and under paints don't get damaged... THANK YOU
Hola! Simple answer: you shouldn’t use Tamiya Panel Liner or any other panel liner that’s not acrylic. The liner is not the issue, the issue is cleaning it. Zippo fluid will melt the acrylic coating and leave smudges. Same for the Mr. Color Thinner. I can’t be sure about the others product but I wouldn’t risk ruining a model. The acrylic wash/filler can be cleaned with water and it’s 100% the safest option.
No worries! I would also suggest, when you’re not sure if a product is safe or not, to do some test on your runners or spare parts. Always better safe than sorry
Your tutorial is great, Sir, as I'm mainly a Gunpla brush painter as well, but, if I can, I try to avoid using primers as they are an added layer of paint that can somehow hide details. Not always possible, of course. If you don't mind, may I ask you why you applied a layer of gloss coating instead of a matte one, please? Shouldn't you have used a matte one, as you ended the painting by spraying a matte topcoat?🤔🤔🤔 Thank you in advance for your answer.
Thank you! I would suggest to always use the primer for a couple of reasons. It gives a good base for the color to stick on, with time it’s easier for the paint to get ruined without. Also you will need less coatings to get your color even. The primer should anyway be nicely thinned and applied carefully to not cover all those nice details :) Regarding the gloss coat, it’s mainly because of the panel lining. The gloss creates a smooth surface, while the matte a rough one. Cleaning a smooth surface is way easier! With a matte coating there’s the risk of leaving a black/grey shadow or worst. It also does not really change the final texture of the matte topcoat. I hope I’ve been clear enough and let me know if you have more questions!
Question, if I want to make like a pattern or a shape on top of a surface without using the panel lines as a guide, lets say those caution stripes on those construction machines, is it fine if I use Masking Tapes? Or would that be bad because it could possibly bleed into it? Is there a better way?
If you apply the tape correctly it won’t bleed in, but you can have two main issues: The first is that your design will be higher then the rest of the paint, literally being tridimensional. Especially if you’re using light paints like yellow that needs a lot of coats. The second is that you risk to chip the paint once you remove the tape. You have to think about your paint layers as a thin sheet of ice, it doesn’t break in a straight line. So you need to be very careful. At the end it’s possible, but really risky. If you’re planning to do simple design like the stripes I would suggest to scribe them lightly.
@@TeaandGunpla then I guess Ill scribe it first, and then cut tape it according to the scribed lines? Hopefully the excess paint would go into the recessed lines instead of under the tape. And how can I avoid the paint from forming a noticable bump between the stripes? Sanding?
I would just skip the tape. The scribed lines should be enough to give a clean separation between the colors. Also the level difference shouldn’t be noticeable with some space in between
In all the paint videos I've watched this is the first time I'm seeing mention of painting in the opposite direction on every layer. What's the reasoning behind it? I usually just keep going the same direction.
It helps when using really thinned paint. Being the color so liquid it has less grip and the risk of it being applied unevenly is higher. Using a cross pattern helps making the surface slightly more rough. Also it helps in evening out any streak marks: instead of accentuating them with passing over in the same direction, going the other way will kinda flatten them.
That is a common issue and it’s not so easy to solve. The best thing is to be extremely careful when handling a painted model. You should also assemble it before painting and check where friction happens. Then you can try two things: sand down the inside of the part, trying to create a gap to eliminate the friction. Or you could also some masking tape on the inside (of the skirt in this case).
I’m using modeling brushes by Ray Studio, a brand I really enjoy. You can find them here: raystudio.shop/collections/painting-tools/products/modeling-brush-pointed-flat?variant=44504183931124
Unfortunately with a dry palette is going to be harder to thin your paint. Without thinning the risk of strake marks is really high. You can find wet palettes for miniature painting at less than 10$ on Amazon, I would suggest to consider getting one.
I’m sorry to hear that, but I’m not surprised :( For the paints, I think the best option is AliExpress, there are a few online shops selling them like a.aliexpress.com/_oFPPwlj You can search for more with SM paint or Sheik Mainland paint
I brush paint 90% of my models I ad a little bit of water to the acrylic paint I mix my colors Myself And I use dollar Tree paints Except for white I get that from the lobby of the hobby And I pay forty nine cents And my clear coat I use restolium semi gloss Or restorium Matte It depends on the part I'm putting the clear coat on And I use black Gray or white primer from the rustolium brand Depending on the part and what color I'm planning on painting it, For example if I'm handpainting green red or blue I use the gray Or white primer If I'm doing something metallic I go with Black If I'm doing a color like a yellow or a really light green I do white
Metal markers are actually pretty good for painting the inner frame (or parts of it, like in HGs). You can use regular markers also for details and small parts, but doing a full armor is pretty tricky tbh. I’ll cover the inner frame with metal markers in an upcoming video.
Yeah, I confirm that works. I usually do it with the metal markers to paint small details, reach areas where the marker can get or dry brushing. It works pretty well.
I am terrible at airbrushing, and I live in an area where aerosol cans are inaccessible. I love videos like this, but at some point there is always an aerosol can😂 I get that topcoating is very difficult to do cleanly with a brush, I mean no criticism, it just seems that spraying is inescapable at some point
Tbh I use the spray topcoat because it's just so much faster! But you can totally use an acrylic one, like the Vallejo Matte Varnish and get very good results. It will just take way more time and patience
i still dont get it, it all using water base paint n coat. but wiping the panel line also with water. but why its not erasing the top coat also even the paint? since its using the same water.
@@TeaandGunpla good tutorial tho.. I tried hand painting with Entry grade Nu-Gundam.. But yours looks far easier.. I'll give this a shot.. I'm getting another Entry grade to test it later for the strike freedom :) Tho its hard to get that chinese brand where im from so I just stick with the citadel ones
As the proud owner of the worst ratio'd Gunpla handpainting video on RUclips, I must say, great work my friend! I wish this video existed when I started handpainting! I'd love to have you on my show to talk Gunpla sometime!
Thank you! I will absolutely check out your channel then and maybe we could have a chat
Always nice to see someone brush paint. I choose brush over air for various reasons. I find I have to ‘learn’ each colour as the amount of dilution and number of coats for a good finish varies
It’s a more relaxing way to paint for me, airbrushing is a bit less “personal”. I agree on what you’re saying about learning the colors. That’s where the sp00n really becomes an essential tool.
@@TeaandGunpla a most important tool!
nice work! I'm a brush painter and i like seeing how other folks go about gunpla painting. I haven't heard of these paints before, I'm going to look into them more
Thank you! Here in Asia they’re pretty easy to source and they have a great choice of colors.
Just started a week ago and couldn’t find any good tutorials for hand painting. Thanks boss.
Thank you for watching. Let me know if you have any questions, happy to help.
I will ABSOLUTELY try this in the future.
glad to see ppl handpainting kits, i always recommned folks to start handpainting when getting into the hobby.
I think everyone should give it a try, it’s a great side of the hobby, even for just some detailing
I wish i could watch this when i was started to hand pant a while ago, very helpful sir 🙏🙏🙏
Happy to help!
Wow the algorithm actually doing good work for once! This is exactly the stuff I’m looking for. At my current place I’m unable to airbrush but past forays into brushing have left me disappointed. Currently I’ve got a backlog and really considering just straight building with light panel lining. The perfectionist in me wants these kit to look their absolute best so I really really want to paint them, I’m just really hesitant man.
Thanks! I’m the same, I love to have the best result I can! Unfortunately I just can’t paint everything, there’s not enough time. But I try to have at least the inner frame done which already makes the model look so much better.
Hey thanks for the tutorial. Haven't touched a kit in a long time and am rusty af. Great jumpoff point while I get my feet wet.
Thank you and welcome back to the hobby! I hope my tutorials will be helpful.
Great tutorial. I'll will try it for my next kit.
Loved your guide! I'll start my first custom kit in a few days and this guide made me learn some things I didn't know! Thanks, man, and greetings from Venezuela!
Thank you very much! Good luck with your build and maybe take a look at my other tutorials, if you think you need some extra tips
@@TeaandGunplaThanks, bud! Btw, I've got a question, do you have any other options for coating instead of sheik's? I can't buy sheik mainland paints and coating here. Are they the same as Vallejos varnishes or do you recommend me to use other brands?
You can absolutely use Vallejo colors and varnishes. Vallejo acrylics work exactly the same. They are just a bit more thick than SM, so you should thin them a bit more. Maybe do some testing on spoons until you find the right mix
I have try your technique on my juaguu and it work like a charm.
That’s great to know! I’m really glad the video has been helpful
Hey friend, great guide! Another method you can use is painting with makeup sponges. It gives you a really, really nice finish that is very close if not comparable to airbrush. There's a fellow on youtube that used to do it called "Healing-Pla," though he's not been posting videos as of late. I've been testing it on spoons and it's really nice. I use a combination of brushes and sponges now a days.
Thank you so much. I’ve been intrigued by the sponge painting, tbh. It’s totally something I want to try as soon as I have some time, which is not a lot lately!
Thank you so much
Thank you for watching!
@@TeaandGunpla you’re welcome!
Thats what I was looking for, TYSM for a detailed guide cus airbrush was too scary for me
Glad I could help and thanks for watching!
Hi.. nice video! i might have missed it.. but just want to ask:
1. what brand of acrylic paint did you use ?
2. what brush type/ number (if there is) would you usually use ?
Thank you!
The paint’s brand is SM (Sheik Mainland). It’s a Chinese brand that you find on AliExpress.
I usually use a 7mm and 10mm pointy brushes and a 8mm flat brush. If I need to detail really small parts I use a 5mm thin tip
You can use painters tape to mask the areas you don't want to be painted to get crips lines. I only painted one of my kits and only had a spray paint that was safe for plastic that wasn't hobby paint. It turned out great, but you have to spray very very light and be about a foot away from it.
With acrylic colors there is the risk of chipping the paint while removing the tape. So it’s a bit risky!
Phenomenal guide thanks so much :D
Thank you for watching it!
I learned a lot! Nice vid! ❤
Thank you, happy that you find the video helpful
Amazing Video!!! 😊How long are you waiting between coats of the acrylic? I’m never sure and probably end up taking more time than needed
Thank you! The times really varies depending on the paint and how much is applied. Making really thin coats it usually take less than a minute to be ready. After I finish a coat I start another piece and, by the time I’m done with it, the first is ready for the next layer. Anyway, just look at the paint, if it’s not shiny anymore you can proceed with painting again.
Great video ❤ May I know the code for your gloss coat?
Thank you! The code is: RBT1115K
Thanks for a great video! I’m looking to start hand painting as well. I was wondering instead of the black panel lining paint you used, can I use the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color? Would it still rub out with water?
Thank you for watching! Unfortunately you can’t use an enamel panel liner like the Tamiya. Water will not clean it at all and the cleaner (or other products like lighter fluid) will ruin both the gloss coating and the paint. The acrylic black filler/wash is the best and safest option
@@TeaandGunplaThank you! I don’t have access to the brand you used. What product would you recommend to get the same effect (for the gloss coat and acrylic black filler)?
I know, you can get them only on AliExpress if you’re in the western world. I would suggest for the filler/wash amzn.eu/d/czwOkeA and for the gloss coat amzn.eu/d/esambQT
The shops are only for reference, I found them with a quick google search
I did some experimenting and you can use a nail polish top coat to top coat your kits! And it brings out the paint even more! You don’t need to spend big money on top coat. I understand people will probably say otherwise but you need to try it
That is a new technique that I will absolutely try out, now I am intrigued!
@@TeaandGunpla it was my only alternative since I don’t have the luxury of using spray cans at my home lol and I don’t feel like going outside to spray 😆
it's a beautiful video, I really love the tutorial, Until this time I used to the Tamiya sprays TS, but the spray it's very expesive, so, I thinking about use the brush and acrilycs paints, but, most of the videos about gunpla and model kits in general use a airbrush, and I don't want to use Airbrush, so this video it's very clear about the painting with brushes.
Sorry for the low level of inglish, Greetings from México.
Thank you so much! I hope your experience with brush painting will go smoothly. An don't worry, your English is very good! No need to apologize
@@TeaandGunpla thank's, I honest enjoy the video, the explanation it's so clear, actually I buy a sintetyc brushes of Rodin, I just need the acrylic paint of tamiya
great video really educational, is there anything special i should do when using metallic paints? i always get alot for brush strokes on those
Metallic paints are a bit tricky and I’ll sure make an in depth video about them in the future. Tips I can give are: make sure you’re using a black primer, the first coat should be almost a dry brushing, the second coat onwards should be regular and nicely thinned. Practice is the best advice I can give tho :)
Is there a specific paint type? I have access to hobby lobby and Michael’s and it’s mostly those small bottles of acrylic paint
There isn’t a specific brand that you need to use. They all come down to your preference. Any acrylic will work, if thinned properly. Some will give you better results, of course. I would suggest to start with what you have available near you and to order better ones online in case you’re really unsatisfied
Do you clean your brushes with just clean water?
Yes. Make sure the paint doesn't dry on the brush. You can use different cups of water, to keep them clean, or running water. You can use your palm or a second brush to clean them trough
painter of miniatures here looking into FiguRise Kamen Riders, just what i needed 👍👍
Hello fellow painter! Happy to help and thanks for watching
hi. great video. is there a top coat to apply with a brush? like the mister hobby spray can but to use with a brush because I paint in a closed room.
Hi, of course there is, for example:
a.co/d/2PXKf4W
But to be honest I prefer the fast spray can way, I just spray it on my balcony!
Thanks for giving me the confidence to finally tackle painting my MG MK II and FM Aerial. Can you also make a tutorial about painting whites with a brush?
Glad you liked the video. The Gundam MkII is one of my favourite designs ever, like almost all the ones from Z Gundam! I hope it will turn out perfect. What would you like to know? To paint white you just need a white primer and a lot, a lot of coatings! But if you have any question feel free to ask, if I make a video about it wont be very soon unfortunately.
@@TeaandGunpla Thank you. I myself really like UC timeline MS designs and the MKII is a solid design. I like how bulky and almost like a Grunt Suit it looks.
Usually when I paint white, like when I started working on my HG Revive RX 78, I sprayed surface primer Gray on it and applied multiple layers of white. I felt like I used too many layers and sort of clogged up the details and looked too thick. Should I have instead used White Primer instead of Surface Primer?
I totally agree, once I progress with my backlog I’ll totally get one too
I’m so sorry, for some reasons I missed the second part of your comment!
I think you made 2 mistakes. The first is not using white primer. Make sure you spray only a thin layer. Then you will need less white color coatings to get your result, and everything will be smoother
Make sure your color is nicely thinned , which will help with preserving the details
@@TeaandGunpla What's your recommendation of thin ratio for paints? Per drop of paint, how many droplets of water do you recommend?
Just found your channel/. Top vid.
Thank you!
hello from central Mexico..I just watched your video on panel lining gundam...
looked at all comments... still have a question...
I have primed and painted my kit Vallejo acrylics, then put Tamiya Acrylic X22 Gloss,Clear
QUESTION.. can I use tamiya enamel panel liner...
and with WHAT do I clean it off with?
zippo, airbrush cleaner, iso 95% to 99%?
so that the acrylic gloss coat and under paints don't get damaged...
THANK YOU
Hola!
Simple answer: you shouldn’t use Tamiya Panel Liner or any other panel liner that’s not acrylic.
The liner is not the issue, the issue is cleaning it. Zippo fluid will melt the acrylic coating and leave smudges. Same for the Mr. Color Thinner. I can’t be sure about the others product but I wouldn’t risk ruining a model.
The acrylic wash/filler can be cleaned with water and it’s 100% the safest option.
@@TeaandGunpla thank you so much, phew I am glad I asked you...
No worries!
I would also suggest, when you’re not sure if a product is safe or not, to do some test on your runners or spare parts. Always better safe than sorry
Your tutorial is great, Sir, as I'm mainly a Gunpla brush painter as well, but, if I can, I try to avoid using primers as they are an added layer of paint that can somehow hide details. Not always possible, of course. If you don't mind, may I ask you why you applied a layer of gloss coating instead of a matte one, please? Shouldn't you have used a matte one, as you ended the painting by spraying a matte topcoat?🤔🤔🤔 Thank you in advance for your answer.
Thank you! I would suggest to always use the primer for a couple of reasons. It gives a good base for the color to stick on, with time it’s easier for the paint to get ruined without. Also you will need less coatings to get your color even.
The primer should anyway be nicely thinned and applied carefully to not cover all those nice details :)
Regarding the gloss coat, it’s mainly because of the panel lining. The gloss creates a smooth surface, while the matte a rough one. Cleaning a smooth surface is way easier! With a matte coating there’s the risk of leaving a black/grey shadow or worst. It also does not really change the final texture of the matte topcoat.
I hope I’ve been clear enough and let me know if you have more questions!
@@TeaandGunpla Thank you very much, Sir. Your answer is clearest.
You’re welcome!
Question, if I want to make like a pattern or a shape on top of a surface without using the panel lines as a guide, lets say those caution stripes on those construction machines, is it fine if I use Masking Tapes? Or would that be bad because it could possibly bleed into it? Is there a better way?
If you apply the tape correctly it won’t bleed in, but you can have two main issues:
The first is that your design will be higher then the rest of the paint, literally being tridimensional. Especially if you’re using light paints like yellow that needs a lot of coats.
The second is that you risk to chip the paint once you remove the tape. You have to think about your paint layers as a thin sheet of ice, it doesn’t break in a straight line. So you need to be very careful.
At the end it’s possible, but really risky. If you’re planning to do simple design like the stripes I would suggest to scribe them lightly.
@@TeaandGunpla then I guess Ill scribe it first, and then cut tape it according to the scribed lines? Hopefully the excess paint would go into the recessed lines instead of under the tape.
And how can I avoid the paint from forming a noticable bump between the stripes? Sanding?
I would just skip the tape. The scribed lines should be enough to give a clean separation between the colors. Also the level difference shouldn’t be noticeable with some space in between
@@TeaandGunpla thanks. I'll keep this in mine for my future projects
In all the paint videos I've watched this is the first time I'm seeing mention of painting in the opposite direction on every layer. What's the reasoning behind it? I usually just keep going the same direction.
It helps when using really thinned paint. Being the color so liquid it has less grip and the risk of it being applied unevenly is higher. Using a cross pattern helps making the surface slightly more rough. Also it helps in evening out any streak marks: instead of accentuating them with passing over in the same direction, going the other way will kinda flatten them.
@@TeaandGunpla I’ll try this the next time I paint. Thanks for the advice 🙏
You’re welcome, let me know how it goes!
Do you have any tips on preventing paint chipping on hi friction areas like the thigh bumping into the side skirts?
That is a common issue and it’s not so easy to solve. The best thing is to be extremely careful when handling a painted model.
You should also assemble it before painting and check where friction happens. Then you can try two things: sand down the inside of the part, trying to create a gap to eliminate the friction. Or you could also some masking tape on the inside (of the skirt in this case).
@@TeaandGunpla ohh thanks, I'll try those out.
You’re welcome!
I'm interested with your brush. Most i find here the bristles are quite long & tend to easily become split end.
I’m using modeling brushes by Ray Studio, a brand I really enjoy. You can find them here: raystudio.shop/collections/painting-tools/products/modeling-brush-pointed-flat?variant=44504183931124
A godsent video for a beginner like me, my only question is that only have a dry palet, it shouldn't be that different right?
Unfortunately with a dry palette is going to be harder to thin your paint. Without thinning the risk of strake marks is really high. You can find wet palettes for miniature painting at less than 10$ on Amazon, I would suggest to consider getting one.
@@TeaandGunplayou were right my friend, it was a pain
Also, can you give me a link to buy those paints?
I’m sorry to hear that, but I’m not surprised :(
For the paints, I think the best option is AliExpress, there are a few online shops selling them like
a.aliexpress.com/_oFPPwlj
You can search for more with SM paint or Sheik Mainland paint
@@TeaandGunpla thanks champ
I brush paint 90% of my models I ad a little bit of water to the acrylic paint I mix my colors Myself And I use dollar Tree paints Except for white I get that from the lobby of the hobby And I pay forty nine cents And my clear coat I use restolium semi gloss Or restorium Matte It depends on the part I'm putting the clear coat on And I use black Gray or white primer from the rustolium brand Depending on the part and what color I'm planning on painting it, For example if I'm handpainting green red or blue I use the gray Or white primer If I'm doing something metallic I go with Black If I'm doing a color like a yellow or a really light green I do white
Is it possible to paint using markers?
Metal markers are actually pretty good for painting the inner frame (or parts of it, like in HGs). You can use regular markers also for details and small parts, but doing a full armor is pretty tricky tbh. I’ll cover the inner frame with metal markers in an upcoming video.
@@TeaandGunpla thank you! Looking forward to all your tips
I saw someone use the pour markers and dab the marker in a dish to get some of the paint out and then used a brush to paint with it.
Yeah, I confirm that works. I usually do it with the metal markers to paint small details, reach areas where the marker can get or dry brushing. It works pretty well.
I am terrible at airbrushing, and I live in an area where aerosol cans are inaccessible. I love videos like this, but at some point there is always an aerosol can😂 I get that topcoating is very difficult to do cleanly with a brush, I mean no criticism, it just seems that spraying is inescapable at some point
Tbh I use the spray topcoat because it's just so much faster! But you can totally use an acrylic one, like the Vallejo Matte Varnish and get very good results. It will just take way more time and patience
i still dont get it, it all using water base paint n coat. but wiping the panel line also with water. but why its not erasing the top coat also even the paint? since its using the same water.
Because the acrylic coats/varnishes are waterproof :)
They are made specifically to not be ruined by water.
@@TeaandGunpla ooh, okay thats new. Waterbased but waterproof..
I know, right? It’s like witchcraft but it works!
the MG SP00N is too expensive so I just stole one of the plastic spoons from my the trash
Wait for the PG Sp00n, it will revolutionize the industry.
@@TeaandGunpla good tutorial tho.. I tried hand painting with Entry grade Nu-Gundam.. But yours looks far easier.. I'll give this a shot.. I'm getting another Entry grade to test it later for the strike freedom :) Tho its hard to get that chinese brand where im from so I just stick with the citadel ones
Thank you! Let me know if you will have any questions. Happy to help