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I use 800 or 1000 grit to prepare the part. It has to be really light, just to roughen the surface a bit

I’m glad you found the video helpful! If you want to dive into Gunplas, I have others beginner friendly tutorials that may help you out. For the Emperor!

Thanks for the sub and for the advice! I had been trying different products for polishing the kits, and the balancer is still the best choice, unfortunately. You can swap to cheaper polish boxes, use higher grits or even polishing creams, but the easiness to use and speed of the balancer rest unmatched!

Thank you! It’s actually not so hard to do. I made a tutorial about it, if you’re interested. ruclips.net/video/n3Wig0Vx-Bk/видео.html

I sanded them down so they could sit properly, but the weight was still too much. I made a couple of brackets with metal wire to keep them in place and they work fairly well

Thanks! I'll try to crack more jokes then lol

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you so much. I honestly like the tone down effect of the flat topcoat on my metallic colors. If you want to keep the shininess, you have two options. The first is using a gloss or semi-gloss coating, but I am not a huge fan of the final result (personal opinion). The other is switching to metal markers. The ones from Ray Studio, for example, are pretty scratch resistant and, paying a bit of attention, won't get ruined easily. They can be applied with brushes too and you can do panel lining with acrylic on top without worries. For the pla plates, I used the ones from Dspiae, you can check their shop if they deliver to your location: dspiaestore.com/products/dspiae-pc-gy-plastic-plate-for-model-customization-diy-parts?srsltid=AfmBOor22FuVd6Ls1_BB_AVtbNG5V0ElHueL89jNwGShXjiuUABPm7JL Let me know if anything is unclear!

Great video and to do so much custom for HG is great inspiration! For hand painting with acrylics are normal artist grade acrylic paints okay or specific model painting acrylics the only way to go?

Thank you! You can use any brand of acrylics you want. The ones for models, like the brand I am using, are usually already thinned, to minimize the strake marks.

Thank you! The weathering tutorials will come in 2025, don't worry! Regarding the swab I use the secret power of editing lol, there is no way to avoid ruining them... I just record with a presentable one, but I go trough a decent amount of them each video.

@@TeaandGunpla can’t wait to see it, and that makes a whole lot of sense lol I was thinking it was some sort of rubber one or something.

Haha, no. I wish there was an indestructible one tho’

@@TeaandGunpla it would certainly be a dream

I like to add some depth with different shades of colors, I think helps a lot!

Happy new year! I cant wait to watch and learn some new techniques. I’ve already learned a lot about brush painting gunpla from your vids, which i definitely enjoy more than airbrushing

Thank you! Really glad that you found the videos helpful!

Thank you! I get them on TaoBao, but if you're not in Asia, it will not be possible. I know that some shops sell them on Aliexpress

I can’t wait for the Ver.Ka!

Unfortunately white is a pain, it’s probably the hardest color to paint. My suggestion is to apply a lot of really thin layers to minimize the strokes. It’s easy to get fed up and start using too much paint trying to get coverage. You should also know that it will probably still look a bit patchy at the end, but once you spray a flat topcoat is gonna be alright. Maybe do a test on a spoon if you don’t feel confident

@TeaandGunpla thank you so much! I'll try that in future

I forgot to add that you should make sure you’re using a white primer! Pretty obvious, but sill worth mentioning

@@Amy_CoolShark I can doubly confirm what Tea said. I've tried to handpaint white on parts before using Gundam Marker. *it does not work very well on the first go.* This is because white is the brightest general color you can have, so anything of the original color showing through will stick out like a sore thumb. You just need to be patient with it.

Make sure you apply a black primer for the metallic paint. The first coat has to be pretty dry, almost like dry brushing it. Then you can apply regular coatings. If you didn’t, I suggest watching the inner frame tutorial I posted, I explain the metallic paints there

Thanks for subbing! Honestly, I never used the pen on the acrylic coat, but I’m pretty sure that the chemicals you’ll need to clean up would mess up both coat and paint. If you don’t want to use an acrylic filler/wash and clean it with water, I would suggest to just use a spray gloss topcoat, like the one from Mr. Hobby

Thank you! Paint brushing is totally approachable, it just need a bit of training and time.

Glad you like it

It will protect the paint only from an acrylic filler/wash cleaned with water. If you use Tamiya panel liner or Mr. Weathering Color, for example, the chemicals you will you need to use to clean up will totally ruin both the coating and the paint.

@@TeaandGunpla thanks so much for your guidance

No worries! Happy to help

I know, right? That's why some external support really helps. The beam cannons actually weight on the torso, and that's pretty stable. I managed to create a couple of brackets to keep them in place too. I think it should work fine.

I'm really happy you found it helpful!

It is the same paint, don’t worry.

@@TeaandGunplathank you!

You’re welcome!

It really depends on the model. Taking the MG Gouf as an example and blue, which is the main color, I should be able to do 5 or 6 of them with one bottle.

I checked the manual and your best safe bet is using a part separator. Even the one that comes with Lego pieces should be good

MG are my favorite line for sure, I really hope they will revive it…

Keep an eye open around your area. Sooner or later Bandai will be there!

@@TeaandGunpla it is unlikely considering where I live but I can always hope.

They’re from Ray Studio. You can find more info in the video description

I don’t remember all the prices and it depends on the model, but HG were around 100 to 200 hkd, RG 150 to 300 and mg 250 to 500/600 (Ver.Ka). The one I got were: RG Crossbone 165 ,RG wing 200, HG Barbados and Barl 95 each. If you have time it’s worth to take a look in my opinion.

@TeaandGunpla Oh yeah I have to consider how far it is. Thank youuu

No worries! If the event is way out of your area, check out Sino Center in Mong Kok, 582 Nathan Road. You can find a decent amount of shops selling Gunpla and sometimes I managed to snatch great ones for an amazing price

Thank you! First of all, don’t expect miracles. You can clean it but it won’t get white again. What it will do is stopping leaving black streak marks. With Tamiya just get zippo lighter fluid, damp the eraser and pass it multiple times on some absorbent paper. Repeat the process until it doesn’t leave any color on the paper. Still, be prepared to change the tip at least once for every kit, if not more.

@@TeaandGunpla I see, this makes sense. I saw someone showing a perfectly white tip and saying they used it already on like 3 kits, so my expectations were a bit skewed. Still one tip per kit is not that bad, not sure if it's worth it over regular cotton buds tho. Thanks for the quick answer!

No worries! I still think they clean better than cotton buds, and they're more eco friendly too!

Thank you! There are a lot of ways to reuse your runners, this is one of many. Glad you enjoyed it!

I know right? But at least there aren’t too many kits with an exaggerated number of thrusters!!

@@TeaandGunpla Nightingal: .... 🤣🤣

Thank you! They are metallic markers from Ray Studio. You can find more detailed info in the video description

Thank you for watching! I hope you can maybe find some good online shop that can deliver in your area, that would be your best bet....

That’s a nice skill to have indeed! I honestly like to collect tools, it’s like a hobby of mine

It’s totally fine, you can use any gloss topcoat you prefer.

@ thank you!! Looking forward to more tutorials and uploads from u

Thank you for the support! Don’t worry, more content is on its way

Is it okay if the top coat is lacquer based?​@@TeaandGunpla

It’s a bit risky to be honest. Lacquer is really strong and there is the risk to ruin the paint. I would avoid it. Stick to enamel or acrylic and make sure the paint is nicely dried

Absolutely! Never underestimate the power of the brush!

Thank you! I totally should have mention this in my video… Bad oversight from me! Probably is going to be an idea for some future content.

I’ll be honest, I’m not a huge fan of it! But I’ll sign it down and, if I can fit on the schedule, I’ll cover it!

No problem! Thank you for watching!

Unfortunately patience is a required skill for most of Gunpla customization!

Thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it!