This is an amazing tutorial, I will build my first gunpla this week, your tutorials have really helped me a lot to understand what I'm getting into, thanks a lot
Great video and beautiful work! I currently hand paint everything (no space for an airbrush setup), but it's still good to see how different people approach the test fit and cleanup phases. I'll add that Tamiya airbrush cleaner is essentially the same formula as their extra thin cement but much cheaper by volume. It can be used to melt runner into sprue goo that can be spread into seamlines for more effective filling than the "squeeze out" method. It can be messier, but I like it more than using putty.
Amazing work like always,I just started to paint in a airbrush and I like it but I'm interested in scribes the lines just I have to save some money for the tools because they are a little expensive but some day I'm going to do it. I hope to seeing more videos like this one.
If you’re not painting your gunpla (just using the base colors) do you still need like a base coat before applying a matte finish? Or do you apply matte coat first before panel lining and weathering?
Not really but I recommend doing it especiallyif you’re painting with water-based acrylics. It also removes dips in the plastic making the model look more refined and professional looking
hi! just asking . i saw you using a Bosny primer before airbrushing it. is it "safe" to use the Bosny on plastic? a lot of vidz tell that its harmful on plastic. But its cost effective at Bosny is cheaper and contains more than Tamiya/Mr Hobby primers
I wouldn’t be using something if it’s harmful for the plastic of model kits. Been using Bosny for awhile now and have no problems with it so far so I’d say it’s safe enough
Cool video as always! Are there any issues I need to be aware of when trimming the male pegs for easy disassembly? Will it not affect articulation later on? Also, if you can link your runner stand, that would be great. Thanks a lot!
Good question! It generally has minimal impact on the articulation if done correctly. Here's why: A proper 45-degree cut removes a small portion of the peg, not a significant chunk. This ensures the peg can still fit snugly into the corresponding hole. And The main factor maintaining articulation is friction between the peg and the hole. As long as the peg fits securely, the pose should hold. The runner stand is something like this, can’t remember the exact one I got as it’s been awhile. - www.amazon.com/Shelves-Organizer-Figures-Accessories-Container/dp/B09P4VCL2V?th=1
Great learning video! Did you spray any gloss varnish on your model kit before panel lining? Having a coat of gloss varnish helps the flow of the panel line smoothly better according to several Gundam builders. Thanks!
Not for me. I don’t paint the ‘insides’ as much as possible so the fitting stays almost the same. In some cases, simply scraping the excess off the pegs is not too much hassle for me.
This depends on the opaqueness of the paint and how strong you spray, as well as on the consistency of the paints so it varies a lot, like for metallics it can just be one full coat while for other more transparent paints it can be as much as 4-5 coats. So the best way to see if you got enough coats of paint is if you’re happy with the coverage and you think it’s even enough. Personally, on average I end up doing 2-3 coats
How to avoid paint chipping and scratching when posing painted kits? I really want to paint my mg kits, especially the inner frame. Do i need to prime the inner frame? Btw i'm using tamiya spray cans, another question, do i need to clear coat my painted kit first before panel lining?
It’s not advisable to play or continually change the poses of painted kits since chipping will be inevitable on high friction areas like the joints. Being careful and topcoating is almost the only way to avoid it.
Very helpful video! I’m on my third Gundam kit and cant seem to get good results scribing. Part of it is my technique and the other part is the scriber I’m using. What brand do you recommend and what sizes? Thanks!
I have other tutorials about scribing, could be helpful if you want to check it out 😊 as for the brand, SAB Panel Liners are something I swear by, but they can be pricey for others, a more wallet-friendly option is Dspiae or Madworks, you get what you pay for in terms of quality. The sizes, you can get 0.15 and 0.2mm for starters
@@NicoSuratos thanks for the reply! I don’t mind spending extra for a quality tool that will last. And I need more practice! Can’t quite get smooth lines and I always mess up somewhere.
Definitely recommend the SAB Panel Liners then! Muscle Memory is a huge part of scribing I think, so practicing consistently is really one of the best ways to get better at it
This is an amazing tutorial, I will build my first gunpla this week, your tutorials have really helped me a lot to understand what I'm getting into, thanks a lot
Thanks for watching! I’m glad to be of help! :) have fun with your first gunpla
Absolutely awesome video! Very well articulated!
Thanks for watching!
I've been building gunpla since the '95 no grade wing kits. This refresher course is very helpful.
Thank you for watching!
is this guide for lacquer or acrylic
Works for both since I didn’t delve deep into the airbrushing aspect
i never got to show my late wife gunpla properly and I know she would have loved watching you as she was Filipina. Great video!
Oh thank you! That’s very heartwarming to hear!
Awesome work! Love your paint job!!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the tutorial! I just started building myself!
Hope you enjoy it!
Great video and beautiful work! I currently hand paint everything (no space for an airbrush setup), but it's still good to see how different people approach the test fit and cleanup phases.
I'll add that Tamiya airbrush cleaner is essentially the same formula as their extra thin cement but much cheaper by volume. It can be used to melt runner into sprue goo that can be spread into seamlines for more effective filling than the "squeeze out" method. It can be messier, but I like it more than using putty.
Awesome, thank you!
for a 1/144 scale HG, what sizes of scribers would you recommend (mostly/ commonly used)
Amazing work like always,I just started to paint in a airbrush and I like it but I'm interested in scribes the lines just I have to save some money for the tools because they are a little expensive but some day I'm going to do it. I hope to seeing more videos like this one.
Go for it!
very nice video for beginners !
Thanks for watching!
Really good tutorial for gunpla with tips for any skill level, really!
Glad you think so!
@@NicoSuratos Definitely earned my subscription! :)
If you’re not painting your gunpla (just using the base colors) do you still need like a base coat before applying a matte finish? Or do you apply matte coat first before panel lining and weathering?
Thank you for the video. I have a question about sanding. Would it be necessary to sand the entire part before painting.
Not really but I recommend doing it especiallyif you’re painting with water-based acrylics. It also removes dips in the plastic making the model look more refined and professional looking
hi! just asking . i saw you using a Bosny primer before airbrushing it. is it "safe" to use the Bosny on plastic? a lot of vidz tell that its harmful on plastic. But its cost effective at Bosny is cheaper and contains more than Tamiya/Mr Hobby primers
I wouldn’t be using something if it’s harmful for the plastic of model kits. Been using Bosny for awhile now and have no problems with it so far so I’d say it’s safe enough
@@NicoSuratos finally an alternative to the Mr Hobby /tamiya primers canisters which cost a lot (for a 400 ml ).
Cool video as always! Are there any issues I need to be aware of when trimming the male pegs for easy disassembly? Will it not affect articulation later on? Also, if you can link your runner stand, that would be great. Thanks a lot!
Good question! It generally has minimal impact on the articulation if done correctly. Here's why:
A proper 45-degree cut removes a small portion of the peg, not a significant chunk. This ensures the peg can still fit snugly into the corresponding hole. And The main factor maintaining articulation is friction between the peg and the hole. As long as the peg fits securely, the pose should hold.
The runner stand is something like this, can’t remember the exact one I got as it’s been awhile. - www.amazon.com/Shelves-Organizer-Figures-Accessories-Container/dp/B09P4VCL2V?th=1
Great learning video! Did you spray any gloss varnish on your model kit before panel lining? Having a coat of gloss varnish helps the flow of the panel line smoothly better according to several Gundam builders. Thanks!
I did, mentioned it around 14:45
Hello great video!! I saw that you didn’t mask the joints when you painted, does that make articulation and fitting harder?
Not for me. I don’t paint the ‘insides’ as much as possible so the fitting stays almost the same. In some cases, simply scraping the excess off the pegs is not too much hassle for me.
Like the video please Subscribe if you haven't yet
Idk if I just missed this, but I still want to confirm.
How many coats do you do for primer and base colors?
This depends on the opaqueness of the paint and how strong you spray, as well as on the consistency of the paints so it varies a lot, like for metallics it can just be one full coat while for other more transparent paints it can be as much as 4-5 coats. So the best way to see if you got enough coats of paint is if you’re happy with the coverage and you think it’s even enough.
Personally, on average I end up doing 2-3 coats
@@NicoSuratos so it all depends on your preference
oki oki thank you :)
How to avoid paint chipping and scratching when posing painted kits? I really want to paint my mg kits, especially the inner frame. Do i need to prime the inner frame? Btw i'm using tamiya spray cans, another question, do i need to clear coat my painted kit first before panel lining?
Yes, you should prime first. You should gloss coat before panel lining too
@@NicoSuratos i tried it once but when i'm posing it the paint chips especially the painted parts near the joints when its already clear coated.
It’s not advisable to play or continually change the poses of painted kits since chipping will be inevitable on high friction areas like the joints. Being careful and topcoating is almost the only way to avoid it.
@@NicoSuratos oh i thought i can change it anytime i want, now i know. Thanks a lot. 😁
Very helpful video! I’m on my third Gundam kit and cant seem to get good results scribing. Part of it is my technique and the other part is the scriber I’m using. What brand do you recommend and what sizes? Thanks!
I have other tutorials about scribing, could be helpful if you want to check it out 😊 as for the brand, SAB Panel Liners are something I swear by, but they can be pricey for others, a more wallet-friendly option is Dspiae or Madworks, you get what you pay for in terms of quality. The sizes, you can get 0.15 and 0.2mm for starters
@@NicoSuratos thanks for the reply! I don’t mind spending extra for a quality tool that will last. And I need more practice! Can’t quite get smooth lines and I always mess up somewhere.
Definitely recommend the SAB Panel Liners then! Muscle Memory is a huge part of scribing I think, so practicing consistently is really one of the best ways to get better at it