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Thank you very much!

Thanks! The top 5 I mentioned is perfect for both MG & HG kits :)

You’re very welcome! 😁

Yes!

Yeah?

Yay! 😁

@@NicoSuratos awesome, hopefully in the future you can show us how to use sab zero chisel as well

Sure! I'm planning to drop a series of tutorials all about scribing soon-ish :)

Good choice! They are really amazing. 😊

I’m glad to hear you like them!

Thank you for watching po!

If you mostly build 1/100 scale kits then yes 0.2 is what you want. For 1/144, it would be 0.15

@@NicoSuratos The .125mm is taking the (small) world of big scribers by storm. It's really weird.

Big night and day, SAB may have taken inspiration from BMC, even the name stands pretty similar. (BMC - Sujibori do, SAB - Samawangu). I stand by it as well for using them for 3 years (BMC chisels were known to be scalped on the resell market for $100 each size practically making you spend $1200 for the whole set, While SAB when it started, nobody has tried to resell it, somewhat always in stock even when it goes out of stock in newtype. This goes to show you how much production is made comparing SAB and BMC and the total for SAB is close to $289 and a massive difference to BMC. You still need practice, even with the best tools, you still need foundation. Fun fact, someone who also has a popular channel compared SAB and BMC (and it's somewhere here in youtube).

PLS SHOW US THE ROOSTER FR FR

Definitely will! 🤙

Hahaha why

What panel liner are you going to use? Tamiya? Or you’re doing something similar to the video?

Ok? Have no idea about star gate so…🤣

@NicoSuratos watch the movie and tv show. Just trying to help

It sounds like you need wait longer for the topcoat to fully cure before applying the panel liner. Acrylic takes 2 weeks to a month to fully cure. Plus, if you’re using Tamiya Panel Liner and cleaning it with Lacquer thinner, then of course, the acrylic base coat will react harshly. You can’t use lacquer on top of acrylics. Lacquers are ‘too hot’ compared to acrylics. You can switch to lighter fluid since it’s less harsh and don’t soak the cotton buds with it while cleaning. Or use water-based oil paints for panel lining.

@NicoSuratos thank you so much for responding. Great help 🙏

Okay so first, Topcoat is Varnish. It’s called Topcoat because you apply it on TOP of everything else as the final step, otherwise, it’s just called Varnish, if you’re doing more steps after it. You gloss VARNISH before panel lining to create a smooth surface for the liner to run through, makes it easier to clean up after as well. After that, when you’re done with your build and you want to display it already, that’s when you TOPCOAT with whatever finish you want - Gloss, Satin, or Matte.

Thanks for watching! 😊

Sure, no export markup plus it’s tax-free for tourists.

Hey @luifranco1457, thanks for the feedback! Scribing speed is definitely a personal preference. Some people prefer a slower, more methodical approach, while others like to work quickly and efficiently. I think the best way to find what works for you is to experiment with different speeds and see what gives you the best results. If you have a light hand, like I do, you might be able to get away with a faster pace. However, if you tend to apply heavier pressure, slowing down a bit can help you maintain control and avoid mistakes. Ultimately, the goal is to produce clean, consistent lines. Whether you scribe slowly or quickly, as long as you're happy with the results, that's what matters most.

@ Wise words! Keep up the great work! 👍

Thanks, I appreciate it! 😊

I didn't really film the whole process of this since I was rushing to make it in time before the deadline.

HAHAHAHAHA oo nga, parang ganun 🤣

You can try this method if you don't have panel liner. ruclips.net/video/KJgDkqfGOio/видео.htmlsi=oDwInHhcaVMzNcY7 Black wash can work, it can just be too transparent to work properly. You might have to do multiple layers just to make it solid enough. Speed paint might work too, I just think it stains the parts too much as it's kinda harsh so might be hard to clean it up. Could also scratch the paint underneath while attempting to clean it.

The clear uv resin ones? Sure you can use that, I just find it too hard to sand without resorting to a mini grinder

Thank you for watching my videos! This was my reply to a somewhat similar comment: I use 0.15, 0.2 and 0.5 the most. * 0.15mm: Perfect for fine details and intricate lines, it's the same size as the existing panel lines on 1/144 kits as well. * 0.2mm: A versatile size suitable for general scribing and panel lining on 1/100 scale kits. Same size as the existing lines on those kits too. * 0.5mm: Best for creating wider lines and deeper grooves, ideal for highlighting larger panel lines and add variety to your panel line design.

@@NicoSuratos This is so helpfull! Thank you! now i just have to look for these.

I’m okay! Just released the explanation video about this 😅

Thank you!

Gracias!

Who says I’m not having fun? 😆

@NicoSuratos your last video you depressed about it. I get it how it feel I am we are cheering you on this time. I wish you luck.

I’m all good! I released the full video explaining that short if you want to check it out! Thank you for the support! 😊

Well built I meant.

Thank you! I'm glad you like it!

Thank you! Mine is the yellow!

Thank you so much! Really appreciate it! 😊

Philippines 😊

Both are similar. Aqueous and Acrysion are both water-based acrylic paints just like Vallejo.

@ thanks nico!

Welcome!

I use 0.15, 0.2 and 0.5 the most. * 0.15mm: Perfect for fine details and intricate lines, it's the same size as the existing panel lines on 1/144 kits as well. * 0.2mm: A versatile size suitable for general scribing and panel lining on 1/100 scale kits. Same size as the existing lines on those kits too. * 0.5mm: Best for creating wider lines and deeper grooves, ideal for highlighting larger panel lines and add variety to your panel line design.

You can send me a dm/email for commission inquiries :)

Sure you can! My dad uses them all the time :) Just be mindful of how many coats and how heavy you apply it since miniatures are a lot smaller so the details can get flooded easily.

@NicoSuratos thank you sm! Def got a sub

Makes it a whole lot easier honestly!

Tamiya is alcohol-based so it's really tricky to handpaint with it. Alcohol-based paints reactivates so you can't do a second coat, you're just scratching the first coat underneath. It's mainly for airbrushing. Therefore, Citadel paints are better in this case. Those are actually formulated for handpainting since they're meant for miniature figures.

Ah, I understand. I come from Warhammer but I accidentally invested in some tamiya acrylic paints before doing research. Thanks for the tip!

Got it! You can use Citadel paints or whatever you're already using on your warhammer minis to handpaint Gunpla :)

@@NicoSuratos Dude your channel is legitimately helpful and you're so active in the comments, I really appreciate you - keep it up!

Definitely!

Yes it does! So surprised with the video quality when I tried it!