Holy crap, a model maker who understands that not everyone has an airbrush! The amount of hate I have received in some modeling circles when i say i brush paint because i cannot afford and airbrush is frankly staggering.
Really? Dang I can’t afford a airbrush setup aswell, I got discouraged when I saw the lack of brush paint support. I also can’t afford 50 different spray cans. So I’m using 10ml Timiya bottles. Hope it works :/
@@everythingrc2324 you could pickup one of the new battery powered airbrushes. Some are actually quite good, and only cost around $50. Same price as a kit basically.
I started Military Scale Modelling in the 1970's ... back then brush painting was ubiquitous AND an Art Form - there's nothing cheap or second rate about it compared to Air Brushing, but it requires a level of skill just like anything else. The fact that Brush Painting allows an entry level enthusiast to get into the hobby for less should not be confused with a lesser result ... it's the way it was always done, these days you just have more options.
@@Curioventura P.S Playing Devils Avocado on Tamiya Paint ... that scarring that was mentioned can in some cases work for you, particularly in the case of Scale Military Armour - Tanks for instance. A lot of the texture found on the surface of Tank Turrets - those with large area of cast steel - absolutely possess that kind of rough and ready surface texture. It is something that Modellers usually TRY to add for more realism by using things like Mr Surfacer etc. So ... depending on whether you want, need or require a finish that is slick and perfect vs not ... either of those paints may suit your task better than the other.
I know this video is 3 years old. So I hope you get this. I really appreciate your video. You brought something to my attention that I did not know. I have watched many videos on brush painting. I do not have an airbrush so I use brushes. I just got back in to modeling after 45 years. I wanted to get back in to it. I never have trouble with the build or or fabricing any part or detials. I have a problem with painting. I for got everything. I really thank you for this video. It was the best I've seen yet. I have subscribed and will loke forward to seeing more. Any kind. With the way you explain things any of your videos will be worth watching. Thank you for your time. You stay safe and happy.
Thank you so much for the kind words and even if it's 10 years later, I still respond to comments and appreciate them. I may do a revised version of this video in time. We'll see but thanks again George.
Thank you so much for this. Had been building models as a teenager at the end of the 90s without any clue how to do it. Models looked terrible but I had fun anyway. Now my wife gifted me a Haunebu II Kit to keep me entertained during long calls in the homeoffice. Your video has helped me tremendously in understanding how to get good results and even enjoy the mistakes I'm making as part of the journey of improving. Good stuff mate. Cheers from Germany.
Thanks! I am very new to gunpla painting and I was thinking to start with handbrush, and I found this video! You are surely very professional by the way you explain! I hope for another handbrush tutorial coming up!
Seriously, I know this is an older video but please believe that it is still helpful. I applied your advice of using a soft brush and a soft brush stroke to three kits today. Thanks again bud.
Thank You! Im just starting and this has been one of my biggest holdbacks is the painting. I just want to start simple and work my way up and this helps a million! Thanks for the brand name recommendations!
I really appreciate this video. I'm looking into brush painting some gunpla, but I've got no experience painting anything aside from canvas. Your video gave me a lot more information than i was expecting, but it'll definitely be extremely useful in helping me buy my supplies and determine my approach. Thanks a ton!
I cannot put into words at how useful this video is. For the 2 years I've been into painting models (well I've only painted 4 since I'm 14 and I don't have much of a budget with Tamiya models and paints) I've always wondered what am I doing wrong why does my finish looks so bad, this video is a super big help
Some very valuable advice, I used brushes for the models and with Tamiya, Vallejo and Testor paints. I learned the importance of brushes and smooth strokes and waiting patiently for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.
I know this was from two years ago, just found it. Thank you for the very interesting video. I have two airbrushes but one needs to know how to brush with brushes. Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
Finally, this is the video I was looking for since I am currently just starting on my painting journey and I couldnt get the technique of properly painting with tamiya acrylics just right. It always left a scarring on the paint and it rubs off while applying second coat too. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO it helped a lot. Simple yet useful
Great video! I do a lot of miniature painting so I have plenty of citadel paints - the only issue I can think of is maybe the colours not being 'Gundam Official' but I do quite fancy priming my entire PG Freedom and attempting a metallic finish 😂
I have been doing some hand brush painting on some kits for a while now, and it's been a trial and error. This video simplifies in a great way over others I've seen and have given me some great tips to improve my skill, thank you! I mostly use Vallejo, but I want to try citadel now. Keep up the awesome work!
Gonna go start painting after 2yrs of building gunpla. I gotta sub after watching that. Great tutorial. Idk if i can get citadel in my country, but the technique you taught will help me.
Tamiya is brilliant with a brush, but you have to do things differently. 1) use acrylic retarder, this slows down the super fast drying of Tamiya paint. 2) Don't overbrush the paint. I notice you going over the same area many times, no need, Tamiya (especially if you use a little retarder) sucks right in to the details, leaving no brush strokes. Even if you slop it on. Further coats can be applied, just don't overbrush areas (this can reactivate the paint underneath), and preferably use some acrylic retarder.
I wish I knew about the retarder thing earlier... bought a Tamiya "flat flesh" color and while it is a bit too dark for my taste, it was very good for what you said - sticking to surface and "sucking into" the details. But it dries waaaay to fast and is hard to use without either constantly drawing small amounts of it from the bottle, or using said retarder.
Solid test! don't see side by sides often. I will say Tamiya needs to be thinned about 2:1 or 1:1 paint to thinner. I paint all my gunpla like this and you get much better results than here. Tamiya's X20-A has a mild detergent that will break surface tension and remove brush strokes right before your eyes. Adding a bit of their flat-base to the mix will give you nice matt finishes and make the paint adhere better to the plastic. Tamiya is my favorite, even if it requires more prep!
Nice tip! I'm living in Japan, just starting into painting, and wasn´t make much sense to me pay more on Citadel, as it is imported here, while Tamiya is home produced... :D
Habe den Kanal gerade gefunden. Ich finde es ist alles super erklärt. Sehr informativ und gut für Anfänger. Gleich abonniert. Jetzt hab ich ein neues Hobby. Just found the chanel. I think everything is well explained. Very informative and good for beginners. Subscribed right away. Now I have a new hobby.👍👍👍
those are good tips, thanks. I'm just getting back into model building and haven't got an air brush kit yet. I've gotten good results brush painting with Revell Aqua Color and Vallejo Model Air paints.
This was a GREAT video. I have been into GUNPLA for about year now. 30 kits in and wanting to try painting. Bene pretty confused though and this video helped me a lot!
Great video I own a airbrush but dont use it very often as its a hassle to clean and switch paints im a mostly ship modeler and mainly stick to tamiya as I find it a huge pain to try and find citadel paints for my ships as the names are all fictionalized. Amazing video taught me some new stuff thanks.
As a hint, even where your surface texture is not "just so", like with where you had some roughness with the Tamiya paint, you can still sandpaper the paint texture itself with a good hobby level "wet/dry" fine sandpaper pack you can get from Hobby Lobby. Even your best sprayed on finishes need smoothing, and a good clear coat to cover any "repairs" done with sandpaper, etc.
When it comes to brushing I have been using mostly acrylic craft paint and testors enamel . I feel like enamels need to be thinned alittle for it to spread nicely and not leave brush strokes behind. Tamiya in general covers good but needs to be thinned a hair too.I also think it depends on the color. Whites, blue, and reds definitely need to be thinned or it will cake up on you. Silver or aluminum colors spread evenly without thinners.
Thanks! After using Ez Dope to shrink the tissue, you can lightly brush the plane. Tamiya paints work well for this. I have limited knowledge on stick and tissue builds but I do know others have used Tamiya and other model paints for this with success
*cracks open new model car kit* *presses "play" on the video* "I would stay away from those little garbage nylon brushes..." *looks over at little garbage nylon brush* *turns away in disgust.* HAHHAA! Thanks for the save!
Great video, i just want to ask do i need to use thinner for the tamiya acrylic paint, im planning to use the brushing technique to repaint a bus model do you have any tips on doing that?
Brilliant video. I'm going to start using citadel. I don't have the space or cash for an airbrush and I've tried Tamiya. What's your opinion on a base coat using a rattle can then a top up using the citadel paints? I like making tanks
Thanks! I'd be careful using a rattle can. The spray comes out thick and the last thing you want is to lose detail on the model because of excess paint filling up those details
Hey is there a way to paint translucent coloured paints onto clear plastic without using an airbrush setup? I have a car model that came with lights that are all clear and the taillights need to be a translucent red.
If there is a way, im not too sure how to do it with the types of enamels, lacquers and acrylics we generally use. I know how to do with the cheap water acrylics you get from hobby shops but that's an entirely different thing I'd have to experiment with
Thanks from a brand new subscriber! How much time is ample time between coats? I build model cars almost exclusively, so I would appreciate any advice about brush painting a large, smooth surface, like a car body, please. Thanks again!
Excellent video my man. I don't wanna invest on an airbrush just yet. But I want to be better at painting and customizing my models. The one question I have is on base coating. How do I do a base coat to make sure the paint sticks besides washing and cleaning the parts?
Amazing video, straight to the point with no fancy tools to mess around. I’ve been looking for a video that talks specifically about brush painting with Tamiya paints and good thing I found this one! Just one question, do you need to thin down Tamiya paints for brushing? I’d heard that they are already thin enough to use from the bottle.
I appreciate that you appreciate the presentation of this video lol. Tamiya paints are fairly thin out of the bottle but you can get away with thinning them a bit further. The metallics are thicker than non metallics so those would do better thinned a little bit more
@@Curioventura gotcha, I did a test run of Tamiya black without thinning and gave it around 3 thin coats but it still has a little bit of brush strokes, how long do you think I should let a coat dry and will a satin/matte coat hide the brush marks since they are pretty minor unless you bring it close. I’ve recently gotten back into the hobby after 4 years and plan on working on Amusing Hobby’s Last Production Ferdinand, Takom’s PLA Type 94 and the Tamiya 1/350 Yamato and would like to practice before I start. Thoughts on Ammo Mig paints and Vallejo? Are they thick or as thin as Tamiya? Sorry for the long question.
Very nice video, thanks! Do you have any advice with regards to Vallejo Model (not Vallejo Game Color, or Vallejo Air). Would you put it near the Tamiya side, or more on the Citadel side?...
Thanks! They work well, kind of in the middle of Tamiya and Citadel as far as viscosity out of the bottle. They're a good choice and it's solely up to your preference
are you using water to clean your brush after using the tamiya paints ? i ask this because i always have difficulty with adding water to them as i have always been led to believe that they are solvent based and not water based paints
a brief, simple & clear explanation that shows how informative you are! off topic note, have you positioned the light source below your face angle? usually, it gives a tiring face look.
First off, Thanks for this video. OK, I'm building a 1/32, 1/48 scale fighter plane what would be best size brush and type paint to let's say paint wings of plane? Thanks
Thanks for the video. Yes, not all of us can fit an airbrush into our budgets...I'll also be using craft acrylics for the same reason & from what I've seen on videos, I'll have to prime a couple of coats then 2-3 thinned paint coats handbrushing. I guess 24hrs is cure time before next coat of paint eg Deco Art Acrylics?
Quick question. The citedel looks better, but the other paint in shiny. So with the citedel, looks like you will need a clear coat, but not with the other. Is that right. I’m planning on building the supernatural impala. What would you suggest. Wish o could just find one already painted, but most kits come unpainted
question. i bough a paint(any color) out from hobby shop. its been sitting there for a while and the paint pigment and thinner seems separated. whats the proper way to prepare my paint
Great video! I was searching this kind of video for like month, because i like to start painting with brushes. Could you make or show any video with military models done by brush? With any tips and tricks included. Great video again! Greetings from Lithuania 🇱🇹
Excellent video - great explanations and camera work. Super helpful. Only thing I'd ask more is I'd love to know more about brush care (cleaning and storage)
Ive used some random acrylics for a long time and they work fine imo but i started using tamiya and theyre good too. For me tamiya paint dries and looks less shiny. Both are good so it doesnt really matter, whatever works is fine.
thank you! I'm just now learning how to paint Gundam kits and yours is by far more beginners friendly if I may say. Just the right info that I need! thank you
Do I have to prime the parts I want to paint with primer? I just want to add small details that would be from stickers and don't really want to buy an entire can of primer just for these small things. It's for a hg strike freedom revive if that matters
@@Curioventura Do you have a recommendation on where to start? I have the pipettes for mixing my paints. Would you say 3:1 paint to thinner would be a good place to start or would that be too much thinner?
Don't forget to thin your Citadel paints with some water before applying at least two thin coats, NEVER use these paints straight out of the bottle. I've been painting Citadel models with these paints for years and cannot stress enough how big a difference it makes to your paint job
@@ry0usama511 Yes indeed. Check out the RUclips link Herward Hoyer posted above your comment. It explains what to do very clearly 👍 Basically: - Use a pallet (tile, glass, plastic, etc) - Take a brush full of the Citadel paint and put it on the pallet - Rinse your brush out and dry it - Dip the tip of your brush your water( just pick up a drop or two) - Begin to mix the wetted brush at the edge of of the paint you put on the pallet When mixing, you can try checking the coverage of the paint by brushing a bit somewhere else on the pallet. - If it's too thick, mix in more water - Too thin? Mix in more paint The right consistency is: - No visible brush strokes - No details ruined on the model with thick paint - Not too thin that it flows everywhere (always remember; Two thin coats)
@@ry0usama511 Also this only applies to WATER BASED ACRYLIC PAINTS. Such as: -Vallejo -Citadel -P3 -Army Painter Thinning with water won't work with ENAMEL or ALCOHOL based paints. I recommend using Tamiya thinner with Tamiya paints, especially. Water doesn't seem to mix well with them, in my experience.
Thank you for the great feedback. Give denatured alcohol a shot with Tamiya paints. Works extremely well and it plentiful. The usual proper ventilation applies
@@Curioventura thanks yet again, I was hoping I could go all the way with handpainting kits including the primer step but I suppose that's something I gotta do with spray cans
what kind of Citadel paint are you using? There are base, layer, technical, contrast, shade, etc. What are the differences? What do you use to clean your brushes? Where do I find the Grumbacher brushes?
Is that model your painting the side cowling of the gundam exia gashapon bust I happen to own two one fully built with led unit and another just the frame and armour peaces ✌️ the fitment is arse but nice model if you can be patient
I want to hand brush a 1:350 warship model, especially how to paint the hull. To get this wright is my question ? Should I use little rollers or is it possible to paint with a pencil? Thank you.
is that citadel paint a citadel base paint? I am starting to get into Gundam 1/144 kits and I originally used Testors acrylic kits and it went nice on my first one, but I think that they are old and I am having trouble mixing them. I have 3 iron-blooded orphans Gundams two of which are built and I think that the second one could be a good test for the citadel paints. What are your thoughts? Any suggestions?
The citadel paint tutorials are ok but they are showing tabletop board game figurine painting and I have tiny feeling that they are made of different materials.
Holy crap, a model maker who understands that not everyone has an airbrush! The amount of hate I have received in some modeling circles when i say i brush paint because i cannot afford and airbrush is frankly staggering.
Really? Dang I can’t afford a airbrush setup aswell, I got discouraged when I saw the lack of brush paint support. I also can’t afford 50 different spray cans. So I’m using 10ml Timiya bottles. Hope it works :/
They'll work. Try citadel paints as well; they're specifically made for brush painting . Thin them with a little water and you're good
@@everythingrc2324 you could pickup one of the new battery powered airbrushes. Some are actually quite good, and only cost around $50. Same price as a kit basically.
@@HE-162 huh must new a new thing I’ve never seen that. I’ll dry look into it man thanks for the information!!
You can get an entry level airbrush kit with compressor for $100.
I started Military Scale Modelling in the 1970's ... back then brush painting was ubiquitous AND an Art Form - there's nothing cheap or second rate about it compared to Air Brushing, but it requires a level of skill just like anything else. The fact that Brush Painting allows an entry level enthusiast to get into the hobby for less should not be confused with a lesser result ... it's the way it was always done, these days you just have more options.
Well said
@@Curioventura P.S Playing Devils Avocado on Tamiya Paint ... that scarring that was mentioned can in some cases work for you, particularly in the case of Scale Military Armour - Tanks for instance. A lot of the texture found on the surface of Tank Turrets - those with large area of cast steel - absolutely possess that kind of rough and ready surface texture. It is something that Modellers usually TRY to add for more realism by using things like Mr Surfacer etc. So ... depending on whether you want, need or require a finish that is slick and perfect vs not ... either of those paints may suit your task better than the other.
I know this video is 3 years old. So I hope you get this. I really appreciate your video. You brought something to my attention that I did not know. I have watched many videos on brush painting. I do not have an airbrush so I use brushes. I just got back in to modeling after 45 years. I wanted to get back in to it. I never have trouble with the build or or fabricing any part or detials. I have a problem with painting. I for got everything. I really thank you for this video. It was the best I've seen yet. I have subscribed and will loke forward to seeing more. Any kind. With the way you explain things any of your videos will be worth watching. Thank you for your time. You stay safe and happy.
Thank you so much for the kind words and even if it's 10 years later, I still respond to comments and appreciate them. I may do a revised version of this video in time. We'll see but thanks again George.
Thank you so much for this. Had been building models as a teenager at the end of the 90s without any clue how to do it. Models looked terrible but I had fun anyway. Now my wife gifted me a Haunebu II Kit to keep me entertained during long calls in the homeoffice. Your video has helped me tremendously in understanding how to get good results and even enjoy the mistakes I'm making as part of the journey of improving.
Good stuff mate. Cheers from Germany.
Vielen Dank!
Thanks! I am very new to gunpla painting and I was thinking to start with handbrush, and I found this video! You are surely very professional by the way you explain! I hope for another handbrush tutorial coming up!
Thank you and yes, there will be another video on it!
Finally, the perfect video for us new to the hobby. Much appreciated!
Wow thank you so much for the kind words! Glad this helped you
Seriously, I know this is an older video but please believe that it is still helpful. I applied your advice of using a soft brush and a soft brush stroke to three kits today. Thanks again bud.
I've had a LOT of problems with brush strokes in my paint (especially when using Tamiya). This has proved to be very helpful! Thanks!
That makes me 😊
Use retarder.
Greatly appreciate your advice, You saved a order that I thought I was gonna miss a deadline for. Thank you so much man.
Thank You! Im just starting and this has been one of my biggest holdbacks is the painting. I just want to start simple and work my way up and this helps a million! Thanks for the brand name recommendations!
Again, very underrated channel. Hope you grow big!
One of the best videos I’ve seen for new people like me into the hobby and I’ve seen a few.
Thank you!
I really appreciate this video. I'm looking into brush painting some gunpla, but I've got no experience painting anything aside from canvas. Your video gave me a lot more information than i was expecting, but it'll definitely be extremely useful in helping me buy my supplies and determine my approach. Thanks a ton!
I thought brush painting with acrylics was impossible. You are a true master!
I cannot put into words at how useful this video is. For the 2 years I've been into painting models (well I've only painted 4 since I'm 14 and I don't have much of a budget with Tamiya models and paints) I've always wondered what am I doing wrong why does my finish looks so bad, this video is a super big help
Genuinely makes me feel really good this helped you! Thanks!
Some very valuable advice, I used brushes for the models and with Tamiya, Vallejo and Testor paints. I learned the importance of brushes and smooth strokes and waiting patiently for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.
This video was exactly the knowledge I was looking for. Thanks alot. Really.
I know this was from two years ago, just found it. Thank you for the very interesting video. I have two airbrushes but one needs to know how to brush with brushes. Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
Glad this helped you Judy! I'm always around lol
Been looking into a bunch of videos for this, is the most perfect one thank you very much for the information!
Thank you!
Excellent demo and explanation... thanks a bunch!
Very good tips on brush painting
Thanks for the video
Finally, this is the video I was looking for since I am currently just starting on my painting journey and I couldnt get the technique of properly painting with tamiya acrylics just right. It always left a scarring on the paint and it rubs off while applying second coat too. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO it helped a lot. Simple yet useful
Great video! I do a lot of miniature painting so I have plenty of citadel paints - the only issue I can think of is maybe the colours not being 'Gundam Official' but I do quite fancy priming my entire PG Freedom and attempting a metallic finish 😂
Just make em Gundam Official on your own hahaha
That's a very nice video, I'm just getting started on modeling, clarify it a lot. Thank you.
Thank you, glad this helped you
I have been doing some hand brush painting on some kits for a while now, and it's been a trial and error. This video simplifies in a great way over others I've seen and have given me some great tips to improve my skill, thank you! I mostly use Vallejo, but I want to try citadel now. Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you, Im so glad this helped!
I'll keep it simple like the video... Great job explaining the basic process and the comparisons. Thanks for the tips. Give me hope. Subbed!!!
Thanks!
Thank you so much. Just started modeling again after 40 years and doing a lot of brushing .
Gonna go start painting after 2yrs of building gunpla. I gotta sub after watching that. Great tutorial. Idk if i can get citadel in my country, but the technique you taught will help me.
Thank you! Just about any kind of paint will work with these techniques
@@Curioventura so i guess i only need a good soft brush. And a sacrificial gundam kit. 🤣
been a lot of help for doing my first paint job. Thanks!
Thanks!
Useful video! It`s really helped me. Thank you so much
Tamiya is brilliant with a brush, but you have to do things differently. 1) use acrylic retarder, this slows down the super fast drying of Tamiya paint. 2) Don't overbrush the paint. I notice you going over the same area many times, no need, Tamiya (especially if you use a little retarder) sucks right in to the details, leaving no brush strokes. Even if you slop it on. Further coats can be applied, just don't overbrush areas (this can reactivate the paint underneath), and preferably use some acrylic retarder.
All excellent points. Thanks for sharing them
I wish I knew about the retarder thing earlier... bought a Tamiya "flat flesh" color and while it is a bit too dark for my taste, it was very good for what you said - sticking to surface and "sucking into" the details. But it dries waaaay to fast and is hard to use without either constantly drawing small amounts of it from the bottle, or using said retarder.
Solid test! don't see side by sides often. I will say Tamiya needs to be thinned about 2:1 or 1:1 paint to thinner. I paint all my gunpla like this and you get much better results than here. Tamiya's X20-A has a mild detergent that will break surface tension and remove brush strokes right before your eyes. Adding a bit of their flat-base to the mix will give you nice matt finishes and make the paint adhere better to the plastic. Tamiya is my favorite, even if it requires more prep!
Thanks for all of the input! Great points 👍🏼
Nice tip! I'm living in Japan, just starting into painting, and wasn´t make much sense to me pay more on Citadel, as it is imported here, while Tamiya is home produced... :D
Thank you! Yeah I'd rather the Tamiya only because of my comfort level with it and the results are fantastic
Habe den Kanal gerade gefunden. Ich finde es ist alles super erklärt. Sehr informativ und gut für Anfänger. Gleich abonniert. Jetzt hab ich ein neues Hobby.
Just found the chanel. I think everything is well explained. Very informative and good for beginners. Subscribed right away. Now I have a new hobby.👍👍👍
vielen Dank!
Thanks man,this was the only video I understood, every tutorial was too complicated even though it was written "For beginners" right in the title.
Thank you and I'm glad this helped you!
those are good tips, thanks. I'm just getting back into model building and haven't got an air brush kit yet. I've gotten good results brush painting with Revell Aqua Color and Vallejo Model Air paints.
This is really good video! Thumbs up! And i really appreciate the recommendation because thats what beginners need.
I once was a beginner and knew the exact things I wanted to see and be exposed to. Thanks for mentioning that and ill continue to do my best to help 😁
This was a GREAT video. I have been into GUNPLA for about year now. 30 kits in and wanting to try painting. Bene pretty confused though and this video helped me a lot!
Great video I own a airbrush but dont use it very often as its a hassle to clean and switch paints im a mostly ship modeler and mainly stick to tamiya as I find it a huge pain to try and find citadel paints for my ships as the names are all fictionalized. Amazing video taught me some new stuff thanks.
Thank you for this. There aren't enough videos covering hand painting
Glad it could be of help!
You just earned a subscription my guy, awesome stuff!
Thank you!
I almost gave up on hand painting till I saw this video. Thanks man
As a hint, even where your surface texture is not "just so", like with where you had some roughness with the Tamiya paint, you can still sandpaper the paint texture itself with a good hobby level "wet/dry" fine sandpaper pack you can get from Hobby Lobby.
Even your best sprayed on finishes need smoothing, and a good clear coat to cover any "repairs" done with sandpaper, etc.
Cheers very helpful video
When it comes to brushing I have been using mostly acrylic craft paint and testors enamel . I feel like enamels need to be thinned alittle for it to spread nicely and not leave brush strokes behind. Tamiya in general covers good but needs to be thinned a hair too.I also think it depends on the color. Whites, blue, and reds definitely need to be thinned or it will cake up on you. Silver or aluminum colors spread evenly without thinners.
thanks for making this, keeps up the video man
So cool man!
Thanks!
@@Curioventura oh,does the citadel color need thinner
You can thin it with a little water if you like
@@Curioventura thanks ,btw can you tell me the name of the black citadel
I believe its abaddon black
Excellent video, how would you paint stick and tissue free flight planes by brush and which paint to use. Thank you for your advice.👍👌👏
Thanks! After using Ez Dope to shrink the tissue, you can lightly brush the plane. Tamiya paints work well for this. I have limited knowledge on stick and tissue builds but I do know others have used Tamiya and other model paints for this with success
*cracks open new model car kit*
*presses "play" on the video*
"I would stay away from those little garbage nylon brushes..."
*looks over at little garbage nylon brush*
*turns away in disgust.* HAHHAA! Thanks for the save!
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video, i just want to ask do i need to use thinner for the tamiya acrylic paint, im planning to use the brushing technique to repaint a bus model do you have any tips on doing that?
Thanks and yes, a little thinner would be ideal. Multiple thin coats is the way to go
@@Curioventura does it make the paint smoother and not show the brush marks?
Brilliant video. I'm going to start using citadel. I don't have the space or cash for an airbrush and I've tried Tamiya. What's your opinion on a base coat using a rattle can then a top up using the citadel paints? I like making tanks
Thanks! I'd be careful using a rattle can. The spray comes out thick and the last thing you want is to lose detail on the model because of excess paint filling up those details
@@Curioventura I have heard that if you place it in warm water it makes it finer? But regardless I'm going to get some citadel paints. Thank you 😊
Hey is there a way to paint translucent coloured paints onto clear plastic without using an airbrush setup? I have a car model that came with lights that are all clear and the taillights need to be a translucent red.
If there is a way, im not too sure how to do it with the types of enamels, lacquers and acrylics we generally use. I know how to do with the cheap water acrylics you get from hobby shops but that's an entirely different thing I'd have to experiment with
@@Curioventura If you ever do a video on that I’d love to see it. I wish kit makers would put the effort into making pre coloured clear pieces.
I know you can dye them. Search for videos on here but I know it's not hard to do
Thanks from a brand new subscriber! How much time is ample time between coats? I build model cars almost exclusively, so I would appreciate any advice about brush painting a large, smooth surface, like a car body, please. Thanks again!
Depends on the paint you're using but if it's acrylics, about 20-30 mins is sufficient.
Thanks!
I learned a lot. Thank you.
Thank you!
Did you use thinner for the Tamiya paint?
Regular isopropyl alcohol, yes
Great information on basics for use brush even re learned my bases for use and I will wait see next video for Airbrush still no much experience
Super helpful!
Excellent video my man. I don't wanna invest on an airbrush just yet. But I want to be better at painting and customizing my models. The one question I have is on base coating. How do I do a base coat to make sure the paint sticks besides washing and cleaning the parts?
Thanks! You can wetsand the pieces with 1000 grit sandpaper. That will ensure good adhesion.
Amazing video, straight to the point with no fancy tools to mess around.
I’ve been looking for a video that talks specifically about brush painting with Tamiya paints and good thing I found this one!
Just one question, do you need to thin down Tamiya paints for brushing? I’d heard that they are already thin enough to use from the bottle.
I appreciate that you appreciate the presentation of this video lol. Tamiya paints are fairly thin out of the bottle but you can get away with thinning them a bit further. The metallics are thicker than non metallics so those would do better thinned a little bit more
@@Curioventura gotcha, I did a test run of Tamiya black without thinning and gave it around 3 thin coats but it still has a little bit of brush strokes, how long do you think I should let a coat dry and will a satin/matte coat hide the brush marks since they are pretty minor unless you bring it close.
I’ve recently gotten back into the hobby after 4 years and plan on working on Amusing Hobby’s Last Production Ferdinand, Takom’s PLA Type 94 and the Tamiya 1/350 Yamato and would like to practice before I start.
Thoughts on Ammo Mig paints and Vallejo? Are they thick or as thin as Tamiya? Sorry for the long question.
Use a softer and denser bristle brush and don't press down hard when applying the paint. See if that helps. Both paints you mentioned are fine
@@Curioventura note taken, thank you for taking the time to reply. Most tutorial channels don’t, can’t wait to get started.
Thanks for this. I'm hoping to paint scale models with my citadel paints but am struggling with the colour conversions.
Any recommendations or any coating to spray on the paint so it doesn’t rub off
Any acrylic clear in a can would work but the spray patern wouldt be as fine of a mist as you may want.
Very nice video, thanks! Do you have any advice with regards to Vallejo Model (not Vallejo Game Color, or Vallejo Air). Would you put it near the Tamiya side, or more on the Citadel side?...
Thanks! They work well, kind of in the middle of Tamiya and Citadel as far as viscosity out of the bottle. They're a good choice and it's solely up to your preference
are you using water to clean your brush after using the tamiya paints ? i ask this because i always have difficulty with adding water to them as i have always been led to believe that they are solvent based and not water based paints
90% isopropyl Alcohol. Water is not great to use with these paints. Only thin them with either the Tamiya thinner or as I use, 90% iso
Great video, which primer did you use?
Do you find that citadel has better coverage or opacity that Vallejo model color?
Great Help thanks.
Thanks, glad it helped you!
a brief, simple & clear explanation that shows how informative you are! off topic note, have you positioned the light source below your face angle? usually, it gives a tiring face look.
Thanks! Yeah lighting wouldn't have mattered that much as well, i was pretty dead tired filming this hahaha
First off, Thanks for this video. OK, I'm building a 1/32, 1/48 scale fighter plane what would be best size brush and type paint to let's say paint wings of plane? Thanks
Thanks. Something wide, soft and I'd go for thin coats, multiple layers
Trying to paint my apple pencil into looking like a #2 pencil. Can i used a 2k clear over the acrylic paint to seal everything off?
Yes. I've done it numerous times with no issues. Just make sure the surface is clean and you're good to go
Thanks for the video. Yes, not all of us can fit an airbrush into our budgets...I'll also be using craft acrylics for the same reason & from what I've seen on videos, I'll have to prime a couple of coats then 2-3 thinned paint coats handbrushing. I guess 24hrs is cure time before next coat of paint eg Deco Art Acrylics?
Those should be dry within an hour to 2 enough for another coat
@@THEleatherface24 Thanks
Quick question. The citedel looks better, but the other paint in shiny. So with the citedel, looks like you will need a clear coat, but not with the other. Is that right. I’m planning on building the supernatural impala. What would you suggest. Wish o could just find one already painted, but most kits come unpainted
The paint I used for the Tamiya was satin black so it has a slight sheen to it. I'd advise clear coat for everything that's going to be handled a lot
question. i bough a paint(any color) out from hobby shop. its been sitting there for a while and the paint pigment and thinner seems separated. whats the proper way to prepare my paint
Great video! I was searching this kind of video for like month, because i like to start painting with brushes. Could you make or show any video with military models done by brush? With any tips and tricks included.
Great video again! Greetings from Lithuania 🇱🇹
Glad this helped and I'll see what I can do!
Thanks for the information. What is the thinner : paint ratio for tamiya?
I do 50/50
@@Curioventura thank you
Excellent video - great explanations and camera work. Super helpful. Only thing I'd ask more is I'd love to know more about brush care (cleaning and storage)
Thank you and well noted. I may do another video of this down the road so ill add that to the list
Nice Vid! May i ask did you primed the part?
Ive used some random acrylics for a long time and they work fine imo but i started using tamiya and theyre good too. For me tamiya paint dries and looks less shiny. Both are good so it doesnt really matter, whatever works is fine.
What kind of brushes do you use for tamiya paints?
what kind of brush are you using? I just got the citadel paint
Windsor and Newton 0000 brush
thank you! I'm just now learning how to paint Gundam kits and yours is by far more beginners friendly if I may say. Just the right info that I need! thank you
I know the basics of hand brush BUT I always screw it up! Thanks for the tip!
Great job helped a lot. What do you think about Vallejo acrylic paints?
Thank you and they work well. Just have to thin them a bit with water
Should you still primer a gunpla kit before hand painting or just go straight to it. Im hella new to all of this
No need. Just make sure the surface is wiped down with alcohol and you're good to go
Should I prime before using the citadel paints or are they mixed with primer by default to use on my kit before adding colors/details I want?
No need if brush painting really. Just make sure the surface is prepped right and has no oils from your hands on it
Do I have to prime the parts I want to paint with primer? I just want to add small details that would be from stickers and don't really want to buy an entire can of primer just for these small things. It's for a hg strike freedom revive if that matters
No you don't have to. Just make sure you wipe the pieces down with alcohol first so you're applying the paint to a completely clean surface
@@Curioventura Oh thanks! I was debating for a while now whether or not to buy an entire can of primer and paint for such small detailing
If I thin my Tamiya acrylic paints before brush painting, does it work any better? Just curious. Very helpful video.
Itll make the pain flow better but I'd go little by little with adding the thinner till you hit the consistency you want
@@Curioventura Do you have a recommendation on where to start? I have the pipettes for mixing my paints. Would you say 3:1 paint to thinner would be a good place to start or would that be too much thinner?
I'd say try less at first as you can always add but you can't take away. Let me know what ended up working for you so I can pass that on along here 👍🏼
@@Curioventura okay I'll let you know. I guess it's alot of trial and error. We'll see what works.
Hello I’m just wondering if you have to sort of prepare the paint before use like I have Tamiya acrylic paints and do I have to shake it before use?
Yes stir it shake well.
Thank you for your tutorial 👍 looking to custom paint my gunpla soon
Thank you!
Question .. how long for tamiya paint to dry ?? And .. usually how many layer to paint to get the best result ?? Sorry quite new in this👉👈👉👈
Usually 2-5mins. However many layers is needed for color coverage. 2-3 works. No problem, ask away! I'm here to help 👍🏼
Don't forget to thin your Citadel paints with some water before applying at least two thin coats,
NEVER use these paints straight out of the bottle.
I've been painting Citadel models with these paints for years and cannot stress enough how big a difference it makes to your paint job
Duly noted and in all sincerity, thank for providing your experienced advice here! 👍
So you mean I need to put a little water and mix with some drop of paint, before using it?
@@ry0usama511
Yes indeed.
Check out the RUclips link Herward Hoyer posted above your comment. It explains what to do very clearly 👍
Basically:
- Use a pallet (tile, glass, plastic, etc)
- Take a brush full of the Citadel paint and put it on the pallet
- Rinse your brush out and dry it
- Dip the tip of your brush your water( just pick up a drop or two)
- Begin to mix the wetted brush at the edge of of the paint you put on the pallet
When mixing, you can try checking the coverage of the paint by brushing a bit somewhere else on the pallet.
- If it's too thick, mix in more water
- Too thin? Mix in more paint
The right consistency is:
- No visible brush strokes
- No details ruined on the model with thick paint
- Not too thin that it flows everywhere
(always remember; Two thin coats)
@@ry0usama511
Also this only applies to WATER BASED ACRYLIC PAINTS.
Such as:
-Vallejo
-Citadel
-P3
-Army Painter
Thinning with water won't work with ENAMEL or ALCOHOL based paints.
I recommend using Tamiya thinner with Tamiya paints, especially. Water doesn't seem to mix well with them, in my experience.
Thank you for the great feedback. Give denatured alcohol a shot with Tamiya paints. Works extremely well and it plentiful. The usual proper ventilation applies
Do you think I can use it for diecast metal ?
I'd use enamels for die-cast
Are all Citadel paints matt/flat?
Not sure honestly as I don't use them primarily
Great and underrated video, not a lot of channels show how to hand paint properly
I gotta ask, is there a way to hand paint primers as well?
Thanks! If there is a way, I've never found a reason to
@@Curioventura thanks yet again, I was hoping I could go all the way with handpainting kits including the primer step but I suppose that's something I gotta do with spray cans
Wait, you can brush paint tamiya acrylic without thinner?
You can lol
@@Curioventura dang...
Any need for priming with brush painting? Getting tired of gundam markers and probably gonna give this a shot
Not really
Curioventura so just straight on bare plastic and I should be good?
I've yet to see anyone prime for brush painting but if it gives you peace of mind to do it, then go for it 👍🏼
what kind of Citadel paint are you using? There are base, layer, technical, contrast, shade, etc. What are the differences? What do you use to clean your brushes? Where do I find the Grumbacher brushes?
Is that model your painting the side cowling of the gundam exia gashapon bust
I happen to own two one fully built with led unit and another just the frame and armour peaces ✌️ the fitment is arse but nice model if you can be patient
@maxbuckley9762 nope, it was from a 1/60 exia but good guess lol!
I want to hand brush a 1:350 warship model, especially how to paint the hull. To get this wright is my question ? Should I use little rollers or is it possible to paint with a pencil? Thank you.
Do you have recommendations when it comes to a primer for hand painting?
is that citadel paint a citadel base paint? I am starting to get into Gundam 1/144 kits and I originally used Testors acrylic kits and it went nice on my first one, but I think that they are old and I am having trouble mixing them. I have 3 iron-blooded orphans Gundams two of which are built and I think that the second one could be a good test for the citadel paints. What are your thoughts? Any suggestions?
The citadel paint tutorials are ok but they are showing tabletop board game figurine painting and I have tiny feeling that they are made of different materials.
Yes they are base and definitely use them. They are far better paints then testors
Could i use the acrylic paints i use for painting pictures?
As long as everything is primed so as to give those acrylics something to bite on, sure
Can this apply to tamiya’s clear paints?
Yes it can
Thank you
They can be hand brushed ok?
@@klttrll yup
what primer did you use sir??
None
My paint always peel off i dont know why. Some told me that i should use a primer before i apply the paint.
I usually sand my pieces down with 1000 grit and then wipe them all all with alcohol before I paint