How-To Calculate the PERFECT Z-Offset For Your Creality Ender 3 v2 - CR Touch
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- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2024
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:518...
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This video is going to tell you how to calculate the perfect z-offset value for your 3d printer with a creality cr touch installed. This tutorial will also work if you have a bl touch or a 3d touch installed!
Please leave me feedback in the comments below! 
Хобби
First time 3d printer builder here. Thank you. Seriously. Thank you. If anyone here has trouble doing this I would be glad to help.
Thank you so much! I love hearing from people that found my videos helpful! Comments like yours are a huge motivator!
At last, I have tried countless videos about bed leveling (being a total novice) and had all but given up (Bambu X1C due soon) - but I thought give it 1 more go, and your video got me there. Thanks
I know this is a late reply, but thank you so much! It means a lot!
This video was very helpful after I was struggling with first layer accuracy for a while and pulling my hair out. Thank you. I used the test print file you recommended and shown in this video. I got my Z offset to what I THOUGHT was correct the way I would normally do it, but upon trying to test print I see the layers were not binding at all. Dialed it in and turned out I needed to go another .10 down. -1.22 is the magic number for me.
I love getting responses like these! Thank you!
Yes, the magic Z axis. Have also lost much hair in the process. No worries, can print a whole lot of plastic hair now.
I just installed the CR Touch and most videos I've found gloss over this without showing the steps in detail. This video was helpful in dialing in the offset, thank you.
Fantastic! Thank you!!!
This video is amazing. I was struggling with failed prints and after one print using your advice my prints look 100x better. Thank you.
No problem!!! Thank you for the kind words!!
This has been such a great help! I was really struggling with prints but this has made such a difference!
So I just received my ender 5 pro 2 days ago. First time using a 3D printer. After issues with firmware and setup. I couldn’t get a damn thing to stick to my build plate! After watching a few failed attempts at benchies I realized the nozzle was way to far from the surface. Then I saw this video! It all makes sense now, thank you. New subscriber, keep up the informative videos.
Thank you so much!! I hope I have a lot of content that will be informative and entertaining to you! I have a bunch of informative videos already posted And over the next month or two I should have some really entertaining videos uploaded!! So much content I want to make and not enough time to make it!! Good luck on your printing journey!!!
Finally someone explained it understandable for the rookies.
Yes!! Thank you!! Im glad it made sense to you!!
This was a very well done video. Just the information needed in a clear and precise way. Thank you for helping me get my printer running correctly.
Yay! Thank you for the kind words! Im glad it was helpful!!
Thank you, this video helped me finally find a way to adjust the offset.
I can finally start my very first 3D print!
Heck yeah!! Glad to hear it!! Subscribe and stick around! I have a lot of other 3d printing basics that you might find helpful! I also have some 3d printing projects that are all coming up very soon!
Thanks so much for your video, I’m brand new to the 3D printing world and I was so confused on this particular step. Before watching your video I had as you call it, a real bad day, I accidentally st my offset way to low and scratched the glass plate and wrecked the nozzle. I replaced the nozzle, rechecked all the dimensions, then followed your video and I got a perfect buttery smooth first layer and very nice subsequent layers. I made your test pattern with your recommendations, it came out very nice. Thanks again.
Of course!! Thank you for the kind words! To make you feel better (if that is possible) scratching the glass bed is annoying, but it wont be detrimental to your prints. A scratched glass bed can cause some ugly patterns to the bottom of your print, but over time your glass bed WILL get micro scratches that cause the same effect anyway, so I wouldn't let hat bother you, and I recommend keeping 5-10 nozzles on hand at all times because the standard ones are so cheap and they will inevitably need to be replaced. Anyway Im glad I was able to help! I hope some of my other videos are also able to help :)
@@ThePrintHouse thanks for your reply, yes I do have many extra nozzles, I’m planning on getting either a couple hardened steel ones, or the ones I’ve seen with a ruby insert. And yes your other videos are a big help too. Thanks again.👍
is there a quick tell if the nozzle is bad ?
@@guidancebeats You’d be better off asking someone else, I’m not sure, all I know is when I scrapped my nozzle across the plate, it was easily noticeable with my finger that it needed replacing, it had a sharp burr.
awesome, loved it, and much more simple than the way my friend was telling me to do it. felt like rocket science before, now its algebra
hahahah now I want to know how your friend told you!! lol
After adjusting on the print z offset do you store setting again
Is it me, or have you buttoned your shirt incorrectly ?? 🤣
I just went back through to watch the video and you are right haha!!! Im surprised no one else mentioned that!! Good eye!
@@ThePrintHouse it cheered me up knowing I'm not the only one!
I just want to know how that happened lol
found you channel after i upgraded my main board to the 32 bit silent 4.2.7 board, and then installed the CRtouch but was having issues ..............and im sooo glad i found you channel ........Z offset calibrated, (massive thanks to you for that) problem solved and now happily printing away and i cant even hear the stepper motors, like at all ............ all i hear is the fan that sounds like a jet engine starting up, thats next on my list of upgrades.......again massive thanks
Im so glad to hear! Comments like these keep me making content! I hope I have more videos that will interest you!!! :)
Is the Z offset a Global Absolute offset, or a relative one? With normal G code on industrial machines, that would be an offset to ALL points, including reference points, home position, etc. The start point of the individual programs would be an absolute position from home (on all axes), and all following points would be relative to that value. Is that how these enders work? It seems if the Z offset was absolute, the nozzle tip should be tangent to the bed plane, and layer height should dictate the starting position of the Z axis. Dont mean to ramble, just wondering why I have to change my offset every time I change layer heights between parts.
Why does my v2 go to the venter of the bed when I pree the auto home ? Thanks
i did it on my cr10 s pro but when i start a print, the Zoffset change, it take like 1mm but i set it at 0.13mm
This is really helpful, thanks. Slight issue I have is that I get a 2 hour print with those settings but with infill at 20%. If I set my infill to 100% it jumps to 8 hours 9 minutes. I'm not planning to print the whole cube, I just want to use the initial layer but out of curiousity, how did you get 3.5 hours with those settings?
No problem!! I'm glad this was helpful!! And I'm not entirely sure. I have some highly modified printer profile settings. I actually tried to replicate my profile once when I was away from home and it didn't work. Also I have can't remember on this one maybe I lowered the cube into the print bed so it didn't print the entire thing?
My gender 3 v2 stops mid print I have the cr touch on it but it stops mid print and then the a axis resets and moves up and stops extruding any help please.
I have a furstrating issue. I try to bed level and it just tries to drive my nozzle through the bed of my printer. Im imagining its the printers z offset or CR touchs but both seem fine?
Hey buddy is there any way possible you can help me out with the firmware that you use to download your crouch in that touch screen you got I got the exact same setup but I can't get the firmware to let me use my screen all it will do is sit there and beat when I cut it on but if I disconnect that screen and plug in the regular screen it works I don't understand what's going on
Hello do you work with people on zoom . Trying to get my cr20 pro creality to print. My z and y isnt working with me correctly
This is a great tip. I didn't even know I needed a z-offset or what it was used for until now. I was using manual bed leveling to get a proper first layer which was taking forever since my bed seems slightly higher in the corners than the center. I will try your method.
Oh goodness I hope you were able to get it all working!!
@@ThePrintHouse yep I got it totally dialed in with the right z-offset and got a cr touch installed for auto bed levelling. First layer goes down great and consistent now even on the corners of the larger bed of my ender 3 max. I think the larger bed which is warped made it trickier to dial in than a standard ender 3.
I just got a new hotend (Creality Spider) and this video really helped setting the Z-Offset right, the test print actually was perfect from the start. I experimented a little bit going only 0.02 up or down and the print immedeatly got worse.
I really liked the look of your control screen, what firmware is that? Would it work with the BTT 9 inch touchscreen as well? I currently use the standard BTT touchscreen firmware, which can also be switched to the original Ender 3 Marlin firmware.
Do you have to adjust your springs on each corner as well when setting your z offset or will the crtouch pick up the different levels on its own?
You should not have to adjust the screws on the bed. If you adjust the screws on the bed regularly it will only make your bed come out of level. If you adjust the screws on your bed you will need to redo this entire z-offset process, so I dont recommend it unless your bed get out of level
I have an ender 3 and I did all the steps but even with a -5.0 zero offset there is too big of a gap. Any tips?
Can I install this on a brand new build? Should I do the normal leveling first? Both came today and are still in the box but wasn't sure If I could install this without a prior level. The reason I ask is because I don't want my nozzle slamming into my bed lol
You will still need to doing normal level (auxiliary level), but you will need to do that much less frequently with a bl touch
Awesome video. Would you know why the top of my first layer isn't smooth at all as the bottom? Im printing with an ender3 v2 and glass bed!
That is so weird. The bottom layer is perfect but the top is rough? I wonder if you have an old rough nozzle that needs to be replaced. I can see the possibility that when you extrude the plastic it smooths on the bed while it is liquidy but because the top has nothing to squish against it leaves a rough surface. I would definitely try a nozzle change if you havent yet.
Any idea why my z offset needs to be -3.85?? Seems awfully high. (Or low, as it were....) Ender 3 S1 Pro...brand new out of the box Sunday.
I`ve just downloaded your file and will be giving it a shot tommorrow. Thanks for sharing.
I hope it worked for you! :)
Thanks this help me a lot!
damn, well im very glad mines not very bad. mines like 0.22 but unsure if its because i didnt tighten the gears on the bottom 🤔 ill do this soon, but its printing well at least for now
Thank you for this!
Hi, on a normal Ender 3, I was only able to get .1mm accuracy, and my offset was at around -.4. Just wondering if this is normal as yours was -1.28. Thanks.
I think every offset is going to be a little different. It depends heavily on the mount you use and even something as crazy as how tight your screws are. 3d printed mounts are where the most variation will come from
I set up my brand new Ender 3 v2 including the CR Touch and now my heat nozzle won't even come close to the heat bed. Do I have to unhook the CR touch and level manually with what came in the box and then install the CR touch after the initial leveling? Thanks for your help.
I would recommend deleting the eeprom on your SD card and then retrying what I put in the video :)
I'd try you said in the video about the Z setting but my printer still not moving and the nozzle is about 1 1/2" ofthe bed. what do you think is my problem, I'm new to this and want to learn as much as I can, thak you.
What do you mean by the printer is not moving? Could you please elaborate on that?
Great help! Updating for shipping firmware ender 3 s1 pro would help. Z only adjustable 0.05mm increments and menus changed. No tuning selection. But tap on top screen z parm to adjust. Got the butter and adhesion problems on flexible magnetic top went away. I ended up with 0.15 closer than a sheet of 20 lb printer paper. Also bumped up pla temp to 210 and bed temp to 65. Thanks again!
Thank you! I will see if I can find some time to update this video :)
Do you "lock in" this z offset somehow? Or do you manually adjust it to -1.28 (in your case) every print after you hit start using the manual tune?
This should save the value for you so nothing is manual after :)
Thumbs on up on visual representation , thank you . Great detail explanation. 🎉
Thank you so much it means a lot!
At the beginning, instead of the level button, I have advanced. Please help
bro i was about to destroy my printer 😂 now i have prints never thought i can reach to this quality ❤ thanks bro
Yesssss 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
i only have 3 settings under walls, is there a setting i have to use to get all the settings you have? I have ver 4.12.1 of cura
I can take a look in a couple of days when I am back at my computer, but I believe there are hidden settings you need to first activate.
Thank you so much for this video! I have been fighting for two days to get my cr touch on my ender 3 to level. After watching this video i realized how dumb I have been. I was lowering the Z-Axis to do the paper test and then changing my offset. I also realized I only lowered my Offset to .1 instead of by 1 so my extruder was not getting close enough to my bed. On the Ender 3 will it save my offset when i Restart? will I need to level each time?
Of course! No problem! It depends on the firmware that you are running, if you are running creality's bl touch firmware it will save and you will not need to relevel upon startup. If you have a different firmware I cannot speak to whether or not it will save.
Stock firmware saves to the SD card, not the internal flash. Jyers firmware saves to the internal flash rom.
@the print house what firmware and motherboard do you use? My z-offset only allow 0.100mm adjustments D:
I use jyers firmware now. I used to use the stock firmware, but I would not recommend it. Jyers is much better. I cannot remember the exact board I have on my printer but it is stock.
Awesome. Thanks for the video, helped me heaps
Of course! Thank you!
Thank you, great model!
thanks for this video! This is verry helpful!!!
Of course! I am glad it helped you!
KEEP EM COMING
I was supposed to have a video out today but my file transfer was delayed by a few hours, so it'll be out tomorrow!!! :) my content quality will be increasing over the coming days and weeks, so stay tuned!!
My cr touch when it probes the bed does not retract. The light goes from blue to red then back to blue to red then purple while it moves to the next point. I cannot find anything on this. Do you have any ideas
It sounds like it might be miswired. If it used to work it might have died and you need to replace it D:
This helped, thanks for the walk-though.
No problem! I am so glad it helped! :)
Great video. Easy instructions on the Z Offset.
I have a Ender 3 V2 and have ordered a CR Touch today. What Firmware are you using on your V2?
Thanks
Thank you!! I am using the standard firmware, but I want to try jyers. I think I will be running klipper very soon though.
@@ThePrintHouse I had planned to use JyersUI but the chipset on my 4.2.2 board is the RCT6, not the RET6, so I can't use Jyers. I'm considering ordering the 4.2.7 board with the RET6 chipset, but will try Creality's Firmware for a while and see how it goes.
Gday Mate, your video helped me a real lot, I was struggling to get this right. I watched numerous other videos but could not grasp what to do and I felt like the others were not explaining how to do it in layman's terms. Thank you very much for the time and the explanation you put into this video.
I'm glad it helped! In my time learning printing I needed it in layman's terms as well!!!
Very helpful, better than paper trick.
thanks for the vid sir but i almost threw my bluetooth headset to the garbage bin because of the sound glitches in the video :D I have one issue that I am unable to fix and I am really frustrated after days of no fix. The very beginning of the very first line of my prints curl upwards and later during the printing this causes mess. If I lower my print head with z offset, the print head forces the layers to unstick off the bed and if I raise the head the gaps start to occur and adhesion reduces. why does that first line curl happen?
Youre welcome! And oh no I am so sorry lol I do not know why the audio is so bad lol
thanks for the information amazing video
No problem! :)
Thank you so much!
Of course! Thank you so much for watching!!! :)
This is really good info, put over very well.
Thank you so much :)
@@ThePrintHouse As an addendum, I ended up at -1.15z, I have not had one failed print since setting it at this. My printing is perfect and reliable every time.
thank you so much. all the other tutorials were so unclear but yours solved my problem
Yay!!! I'm glad :D
My one issue is trying to get it to stop pushing out the pla as it does it’s auto leveling thing.
You can manually pull the PLA back 2 - 5 mm and then when the auto level is done you can manually push it back forward.
I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo that I just got.
I’m new to 3D printing, but I leveled my bed both manually and automatically, and set my Z Offset, but I’m having a problem with the nozzle dragging against the prints the higher and higher the layers get.
I don’t know what to do.
Same thing happening with my ender 3 neo I'll let you know if I figure it out
I wonder if you need to calibrate your z motor?
Great video!! Got it dialed in now. BUT how do I get it to start from the front corners ?? Can't figure it out in cura. Probably cuz I'm just starting out, only been a week and already picked up a second printer. I'm hooked!!
That is great to hear! :)
You would need to change it in the slicer, if I understand you correctly.
great video!
Thank you!!! I have a lot more good content coming soon! I have some big projects planned. Just waiting for some equipment to come in the mail to begin recording! Still around for those videos!! :)
Hello I have an ender 3 v2 and just recently purchased the CR touch. I am have a lot of trouble with the z axis offset. When I try to do what you did in the video the test print does not work at all and does not stick to the bed and every time I try to redo it I get a different z offset every time. I have no clue on what to do and how to fix it? Also is there something in the g code that could fix it I did the g code change that it said in the instructions but I am still not getting what I need?
There is nothing you can do in the gcode unless you already know what offsets you need. I would recommend deleting your eeprom on SD card and trying this video again :)
@@ThePrintHouse I did that and still did not work
Thank you !
Of course :))))
DUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDE i know its a year old, but peeps still be gettin printers. AWESOME now i know how to do this successfully.
My print head hits the build plate and tries to go even lower so it freezes up. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
You can unscrew your z stop switch and raise it! That will fix your problem! Check this video out. It explains how I did it on the enter 3 (except I lowered mine you need to raise yours) ruclips.net/video/UuvNvwOzdGQ/видео.html
This is a great video bro. There’s not many like it that talk about adjusting z level while printing. I never thought of this, it’s actually beautiful man I got it dialed in perfectly around -1.22 and it’s so nice now I can’t even remember what I did before lmao so glad I found this!
By chance, would you know why my CR-Touch sensor doesn't light up, let alone, WORK? LOL.. I am sure it is something I am doing, but, homing all three axis vs, leveling the hot bed, are two things I can't do. Is it because I need to preheat the hot bed before the bed leveling will work? You will see many people's videos all showcasing the same issue I am having, i.e., "AUTO HOMING"... X and Y do just fine, and the Z only moves up about 5 mm to 10 mm then stops, it doesn't attempt to move down towards the hotbed or even reconfigured with out the CR-Touch and reconnecting the mechanical Z-axis stop switch.. nothing.. But, I can go to manual mode/jog, and move the Z-axis from that zero (0.00) up as far as I want, and back down to that zero point (0.00).. but if the gantry/trolley is a few inches above the hotbed, it will not try to move downwards... What am I missing or haven't learned.. I am sure it is something silly I don't know how or what to do.. But, as stated, I am not the only one out there with this issue. What causes concern, is some of the videos are of people like myself, just simply showing/asking what is going on or why... others are claiming that there is some form of issue, either mechanical, electrical, software/firmware, cabling.... Something tells me, that it is simply me missing a step somewhere that is needed, in order for me to proceed to the next steps before printing?
Have you installed the proper firmware that uses the cr touch instead of the z axis stop switch? You need to install the CR touch onto the machine and then you need to install new 3d printer firmware.
@@ThePrintHouse Thank you for your reply. To answer, yes. I played with many install methods of Jyers, Marlin's, and of course the factory software and firmware, which I have never removed, and only made a copy of to the laptop and I use another SD card to transfer with, all in efforts to leave the factory version intact for full integrity and even played with connected comm's from the laptop to the printer itself, via USB. and even playing with Prontaface & PrusaSlicer and watching the live feed back, when the machine crashes or faults out any time the Z-axis is asked to follow orders. M999. I am still researching to see if maybe I am missing a formal G-code starter line or something.
The biggest confusion I have is no matter what firmware is installed, even the firmware that came installed from the factory, the first day I turned the unit on, following the instructions and simply trying to HOME all three axis, X and Y do just fine, and then Z, rises up about 10 mm, then stops, that is it, the LCD screen stops after about 5 to 10 seconds, and the bottom corner "Z" flashes "??-??" or something with the question marks, stating that there was not an ability to do its thing to HOME it self out.
BUT, if I go to manual JOG mode, on the Z-axis, the first week ,I could move up and back down to that (0.00) point But, as of last night, it will only go up direction now and no longer goes back down.. I speculate the board/driver was shipped bad to me from CREALITY.. I have descovered many issues with the cable/wiring, of just bad quality control and methods they assemble their harnesses. The CR-Touch has never worked, or ever light up like everybody elses has done.. My mother board is the 4.2.2. version. beings I have only had this machine about 2 weeks, one would think that it should at least work for a while, and maybe after use of a few 100 hours, maybe even a few 1000 hours, that some of the high movement cables and I can justify them as consumables, but, for them to ship out defective units at an alarming rate, just from what I have gathered in the number of videos, let alone the massive amount of comments under each video is crazy. They know there is problems, and they do not care and continue to ship them
I contacted the LIVE chat service at CREALITY's website, chatted with somebody, told them my issue(s), and that what do I do to gain new parts, even if I have to buy them, I was closed out with "somebody will email me for my concerns".. later, finding out, that anybody who has ever dealt with them, it will be months before hearing anything, and if it does get rectified by email, it will be months again, before receiving any parts...
Don't get me wrong, but, beings I came from the import and export industry. this mentality of many Asian company's, is so costly for the rest of the world, and they know it. to the point that I gather that it is being done on purpose now for the past 5 to 7 years, as an attack on the world economy's. mainly, the USA's economy. But anyway, I don't care what it cost's to being able to play with it, but, I really shouldn't have to pay a single thing to get parts rectified on faulty or poorly made parts.
Lastly, I am still hanging on to a guilty feeling that after all the testing and trouble shooting I have done, I still am modestly assuming that this mess is my fault, and that I am missing something.. but things just do not add up for the testing results, while way too many faults or defective parts in just one kit with the added on CR-Touch sensor. Ah, I'm just grumpy about this, as it is just more of the same from Asian country's. Nothing against the workers on the assembly floor, as they are just doing the best they can, but the over-bosses, are what in so many cases is the cause of this low quality nature.
So I just did the Z offset and mine ended up needing to be -2.10 but the square came out absolutely flawless except! the corners lift, that happens with practically ALL my prints, I can put rafts to stop it but it ends up adding a bunch of time and takes more filament... I know it's bed temp but what do you recommend as a good bed temp? I've tried 50,60,65,70 and still lifts in the corners :(
a little late, but I usually use some stick glue on the build plate. Mine is the glass plate. You could also use the painters tape that a lot of people use. I stick aroune 200-205 and 60-65 on temps
@@ronaldtaylor1672 appreciate the reply but i upgraded to a magnetic flexi plate thing a long time ago, I did end up rubbing a very thin film on the bed with a cold hot glue stick but not ideal and still lifts sometimes... might need to get one of those enclosure things?
Hi everyone, is it recommended to either tighten/loosen the yellow springs?
You should want your springs to be halfway tightened. You want room to be able to tighten it and loosen it if needed. It is better to be tighter than looser though. I hope this makes sense and helps.
@@ThePrintHouse thank you for replying 🙏
Thanks!
My cr touch quit working and now i wanna uninstall the software or whatever and just go back to manual leveling if i need it...have any ideas how to get it out the ender 3 pro...and go back to normal software??? Thanks..great videos man
There are two options, you can actually just stop doing auto leveling at the beginning of all your prints. Disable it from your starting gcode and then you don't have to even flash the stock firmware, but if you want to, you can just flash the stock firmware and you won't have to worry about it. I have a video posted about how to install the correct firmware for adding a bl touch. If you follow that video you would instead use the stock firmware for ender 3 pro instead of the bl touch version of the ender 3 pro firmware. If you still need help when I am home from holiday then I can create a video for you :) just let me know :))
I use jyers default. It has manual leveling and let’s you change filament. Love it.
Does this work with an ender 3 pro upgraded to use a v2 display unit? Also what firmware do you recommend? Someone on Reddit said to use jyers with the cr touch and the v2 display
Thanks for the simple instructions!!!
Thank you very much you saved me from the madhouse, my prints are running like clockwork. Keep up the good work en thanks again.
Thank you so much for the kind words! Glad it worked!!
I've watched a few of your videos and it's interesting stuff - especially the ones talking about how you run the business.
Do you have a video that goes over how you got to the products in the first place? Why those products? Where the did the idea come from? Did you do market research or was it just something you would buy yourself and decided to put out there? That sort of stuff would be interesting to learn about 👍
Thank you for the comment! Yes my second part for the print farm documents more of that content, but I do plan to document substantially more in detail about the specific products I'm selling!! :)
Please stay tuned. I'll have a video posted this week about how I got into selling the products that I do! :)
This helped me figure out my first layer issues. Great video, great instruction, great results. Thanks for helping a noob learn the ropes. I am subscribed... keep 'em coming!
I’m using an Ender 3 with Marlin, can I baby step while printing and use that as the difference for my offset?
You should be able to :)
@@ThePrintHouseidk if it’s just the software, but changing the probe offset doesn’t physically change the height on the first layer. Is it the software or is there something I gotta change in the config?
@@DraconicMaker you might consider reseting you eeprom. See if that fixes it.
@@ThePrintHouse I usually see people changing the z offset probe instead of Babystep-Z. So I’ll give that a try
@@DraconicMaker oh I didn't know that was an option. Yeah that might be better
if your offset is -1.28 then why at -1.20 you couldnt get the paper under the nozzle. was that because the first one needed its bed leveled again?
That is a possibility. The other possibility is that the edge of the paper was just a little gnarled and could not fit under it.
I think this is a great video but a lot of us are stuck on what firmware is needed. Creality has changed their website so even the CR Touch instructions don't match the website so when it comes to the very important, what firmware is needed, we are lost. I know the version number of the board but when looking at Creality firmware download site its very unclear as to what actual firmware is needed. That would be a good thing to add to this video. The old dogs that are not as smart as you young bucks are having some issues figuring out where to start on the firmware. I have a brand new Ender V2 that I added the CR touch to and its not working properly, i am sure I don't have the right firmware. Please add this to the video and help us out! Thanks for your videos!
Thank you for the update on that. I will check creality's website and I will see if I can make a new video. I will be traveling soon so that might be pushed back a little bit.
This is the only file i keep on the ender 3- best print for adjusting level for me
YES! I love to hear it!! :)))
So I should level the bed before installing the auto bed level. Then level the bed again moving the Z axis and then I adjust the Z offset.
Then print a test file and adjust again as it prints.
What the CR/ BL touch actually does? I installed one on my Ender 3 V2 and can't print *hit anymore....
Ideas, anyone?
Once you have the bed leveled and your springs tight, you should almost never have to touch the bed again because the BL touch should handle the rest. What problems are you experiencing?
Much better video, Thanks.
Thank you so much! Comments like these keep me motivated!!
@@ThePrintHouse Keep up the good work.
Every time I Auto-Home or Auto-Level the nozzle ends up several millimeters higher than the last time. I've check everything I can check.
Are the knobs on the bottom of your print bed loose? I had that issue once and it turned out the knobs in my print bed would always come loose and when I removed my part from the print bed I would be applying enough force to lower the bed a few millimeters.
Great Video!
Thank you!!!
When does it do the 9 point patter?
Im sorry I do not understand. Can you please elaborate.
tf is his mic
Amazing video but. How do u get rid of the lines.. know matter height lines still show..
Can u do some video to calibrations.
Unfortunately the lines will almost always show. If you want them to be invisible you will need to fill the lines with bondo or some other filler. Maybe filler primer.
I want to make some videos on calibration but I have not got around to it. I will try to make them very soon for you! :))
Running freshly updated Jude’s software and getting Printer Kill Reason: Homing failed restart required if I try to auto home anything.
Had to grab another firmware file and it fixed it. Unfortunately the Jyers firmware isn’t allowing me to go negative on the Z number
Hmmmm...not sure what that means. I wish I could help you. As a matter of fact, I have not even heard of Jude's software. What is it?
@@ThePrintHouse Jyers software. It must have came out 7 or 8 months ago . I got it going and it rocks. Huge upgrade for Ender 3 v2 over stock software. Can update the screen separately as well. At first it was a little buggy and wouldn’t let me go negative and then it did. You taught me what to do though and my printer is working awesome. Thanks
Do you have to move the z axis to 0 every time before a print
I do not move my z axis to 0 before a print. That should be unnecessary.
how did you end up fixing this if you remember? i’m having a similar issue
Is the Z offset constant as long as the bed level isn't changed?
Yes! If the bed level is never changed then the z offset will never change. I would recommend redoing your z offset once every 30-50 print hours just to make sure it stays as perfect as possible, but realistically you wont need to redo it until you begin to notice bad 1st layers. Your biggest z offset issue will come when you are aggressive with removing your prints from the build plate.
I don't really know hot to work it I bought this so I don't have to fiddle with the nobs and everytime I try and autohome it does the sequence and ones I print it there still problem with bed leveling
Can you please tell me what your problem is? Are you doing everything in this video? I might be able to help you if I have more information! :)
Ya I I bought the auto bed tool so I don't have to use the nobs anymore but it seems that I forget that I still have to have a stable surface so that probably why it wasn't working well I think I got it now
Ok yeah!! So unfortunately you will still need to have a stable bed that does not change easily, but if you upgrade your bed springs and properly install a BL touch then you will almost never have any issues :)
Is it just me or do the bed level nobs move on there own I can't tell you how many times I have manually leveled it but have had problems where it becomes unleveled
Please tell me where you got those bed clips!
Hey!! They are generic binder clips and I removed the handle after I fixed them on :) amzn.to/3ws2MY1
What about the X and Y offsets? For all the setup videos, there is only mention of the Z offset.
There really is no need for x and y offset.
Thanks! Subbed/Liked
Yes! Thank you so much!
Could you so a video of how to do the equivalent of this on an Ender 6?
Yes I can!! I will add it to the top of my list of videos to record. I have a few new 3d printer farm business videos being released over the coming week, but I can have this out after those!! Please stick around and dont be afraid to ask me what the ETA of the ender 6 z-offset video is. I sometimes get backed up and things get pushed off, so if you ask me again in a few days that can help me get the video uploaded sooner!
@@ThePrintHouse Much appreciated. I got mine a little over a week ago and enjoying the heck out of it but want to make sure I get it dialed in before trying to print larger projects. It's great to find a resource for the model on RUclips as there are not many with it being a newer model.
@@wrxrox yeah I know! Not many people on RUclips have an ender 6, so if you have any other ideas let me know!
super video
Thank you so much!
Do sort the sound issues out :o)
Anyhow - finally something that makes perfect sense and demonstrates how your adjustments make a massive difference to the print quality. This is what fine tuning of your printer is - thank you, thank you, thank you! :o)
To make it into an absolutely unbelievably helpful tool I'd ditch the "cube" and run several longish strips of approx. 1cm (or 1/2" for the imperially minded ;o) This would make the results much better (and much sooner) visible. I am going to do it when I figure out how - total noob here :o)
Re. bed leveling - do a COLD run first... Once you're happy with reasonable distance - you may heat it up and see if it makes any difference. Hot nozzle does go through the bed material like a proverbial knife through butter. Even through paper (I do not have a 0.1mm steel gauge - my "gauge" was a piece of paper)... I'm looking at 2 neat holes and 2 long scratches right now. Do a cold run first - save yourself much aggravation and cursing at a guy called Vlad (220K+ subscribers - he should know better, right? :o), and your own clumsiness, of course...
Now a question - Cura gives me 4 options for quality - from 0.12mm to 0.28mm layer thickness. Should not the z-offset be adjusted for different layer thickness?
Any update with the cr touch on the ender 6?
Hey yes! Sorry for the delay. I want to get that video recorded this week/weekend. It is on my list of videos to complete ASAP. I apologize for the delay, but it is in the works :)
Thanks again
Hey I just want to keep you updated on this topic. I was looking at pin out diagrams today and doing some testing. I made progress but I did not get the CR Touch to power on yet. It's being difficult. I still aim to have a video up this weekend though. I did however order a part from Amazon that won't arrive until November 10th so even if I get it working the video might be delayed until then so it is a more complete video
@@ThePrintHouse Would the bl touch be a better, easier option for the ender 6?
@@migueldevela2917 the bl touch and the CR Touch will function the same, I have tested it on a bl touch. Good news is that I got my CR Touch working today. I will have my video posted as soon as my parts come in for me to make the video proper and complete. I will discuss how to build a custom cable, how to mount the sensor, and how to plug it in. You will need either an extension cable or an extra connector cable. There are 2 different methods to install the auto level sensor on the ender 6 and neither of them is better than the other. One of them requires more disassembly but it is still not hard.
You showed exactly the issue that is becoming more common. The Z- offset is inconsistent. The height difference between the nozzle and the probe should NEVER change (until you replace the nozzle). BLtouch never had this problem. I've been fighting this since I got the Ender 3 S1 a few weeks ago. tried different firmware. I get several good prints and then several that won't stick (nozzle too high)
Unfortunately it is inconsistent. There will definitely be a little bit of inconsistency with every probe, but it should not be enough to change the z offset. Maybe what you are experiencing is the wear down of a nozzle changing your z offset.