Getting Z-Offset and Bed Level Right for Autolevel Printers
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Chuck shows you how to use the Filament Friday E-Leveler 2 to create a new Z-Offset and perfect bed level on a Creality Ender 3 S1 with autolevel. This procedure can be used with any auto-level 3D Printer.
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I used to just used the squares test and paper. But I just got an E-leveler 2 and it made an amazing difference! Best investment in my 3D printing projects!
Would also love to see that as a comment on Amazon. Thanks for the feedback.
Oh man have I been needing this guide. I've been having issues getting my z-offset right with the autolevel. Following this, in one try, I'm getting a beautiful first layer. Hands down you've made filament printing a breeze.
This is such an easier way to level things, glad we got an updated video using the new interface on ender units.
just this minute did my setup using the e-leveler2. Looking at the left front side the lines seem, to me anyway, a little more squished the the right side. Does mean the nozzle is a little low. To be fair, the lines look really crisp all round, just a tad wider and squishier on the left front. Great piece of kit Chep.
That's sound's amazing for anyone with an ender 3 s1. It took me a while to get it set up right for my s1 printer ever since I got the glass bed and the sonic pad addon.
This is important for anyone who was confused (like me) about the e-leveler and how to use it for z-offset.
You're not alone
If you dont buy the eleveler and still use the paper method, id still suggest downloading and using that square test stl. Its the best and quickest test print for speed leveling your bed
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing Chuck! As luck would have it, I think I got the last E-Leveler just before the E-Leveler 2 came out. I understand the offset difference for my board is 5.8mm.
Yes it is.
An idea for a short. Show how to get the probe offset by sitting the nozzle on the x then jogging the probe to the x and subtracting the coordinates
Probably not the preferred method, but I set the z offset by eyeball during initial extrusion and running a brim on every single print. I've had some nice prints
Will check back for when the device is back in stock!
It might be nice to print the measurements of the E-leveler2 on the device so you don't need to refer back to the video to get them when doing a Z-offset.
Thanks a bunch, Chuck! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
As an old motorcycle mechanic the feeler gauge method (.008) works best and is completed much faster than any auto-level device.
This is what I do but with crocodile clips on the feeler and metal of the 3d printer, wait for the voltage tester to beep and job done
In the video, you subtract 5.7mm for the e-leveler 2.
Please note that this value doesn't seem universal to me, as the switch's release tolerance must be taken into account.
In my case, removing 5.7mm is too much, as the nozzle is much too low.
You'll need to re-calibrate the E-Leveler2 to find the actual value to remove. For me, it's 5.3mm.
Once calibrated, this tool is very handy (running on an Ender 5 with EZABL)
Thanks Chuck.
🙂
If you adjust as I suggest at 2:00 mark until the LED just turns off it should take care of the release tolerance.
I found that my Ender 3 prints best when the Z-offset is a little too high, i.e. when Z-height is at 0.00, the head is about 0.15mm above the bed. The bottom of the print looks super nice, and it also sticks well.
setting the z offset doesnt really seem to work, ill set it down till it turns the light on using my ender 2 v2 and then once it touches the e leveler it kinda stops allowing me to adjust z offset. can you please make a video on how you got a live feedback z offset? cause using your method isnt working.
Hey. I used your tool and files to level my new pei bed, and it worked amazingly for your test squares print you provided, but the nozzle is too close to the bed for any models I sliced. What can I do?
I am getting the dmsame results, test print was beautiful then my cura sliced project was WAY too close the the bed....help
Its probably your z offset in the slicer is off. If the squares prints fine then it not the bed level.
Chuck, please do vids on set up and maintaining a print farm. What do people need to know and parts to keeps in stock for a production shop.
This worked like a charm on my Ender 3. Thanks.
Does anyone else have an issue with the gcode showing the loading bar on the control panel and then disappearing without running the code? I have the Ender Max Neo.
I have the same printer...gcode will not work for me either
What did you guys do then since the g code wouldn't work mine doesn't ether
Can you make one for the ender v3 se ?
Excellent, thank you very much Chuck.
Hmm, should you level the bed first, then do z offset? Otherwise if you do z offset first then level the bed it will alter??
Your link on Amazon for E-Leveler 2 doesn't work. Is there some place else it can be bought?
It will be back in stock soon.
Hi, love your filament profile videos. A kind request, could you do a video for the cura profile of ABS as well. I would really appreciate it
Thanks CHEP.
I had to use the manual method for my 3Max Neo and the -5.7 from the positive offset makes my real z offset push into the bed?
How do i get one of these over in the UK without it being stupidly expensive?!
Didn’t work on my s1. Z offsets keeps changing
is your bed slightly damaged?
I have the new Ender-3 V3 KE and it’s screen doesn’t have all of these setting options. It doesn’t have a numerical system to show you where your nozzle is located. You can move it around by certain amounts, but there’s no way to know what its current position is. How can we correctly set the z offset in this case?
same here
You have in creality slicer or creality app on phone cordinates of nozzle. When you connect it to network you will get ip adress. You can se under network tab on printer lcd ip, you type that to web browser and you will get bed mesh/level. I haved with front left being +0.70 all other corners at -0.20, -0.40 etc... you need to print small round plastic or you type ender 3 v3 ke bed lvl. And print from 0.1mm to 1mm and put it under bed holder plastic where on other printers are spring, and put plastic to bottom not up to have contact with heat bed because it will melt from heat. To se level values on printer you go to settings( on printer lcd) and equp. Self test, there you check all 2 box automatic z offset and bed level. On end you will get grid from multy box with values. And you look that all 4 cornes are not more than 0.10 all from others cornest. So i have cornesr at 0.02, -0.01, -0.4, -0.3, that should be pretty close to level ground. And z offset settings you can find under printig options where you can move bed and printing head, options are in right top corner or last option. In same settings menu first 2 options you can find extrude option for getting out filament and retrude for getting in fillament.
How does this work when using the sonic pad?
I want to know that too
I wish that this would work on any machine as it does not work on my CR-10S Pro V2.
Your instructions say to zero the z-offset but it is not shown in the menu, I have a Ender-3 Max - Thanks
In the video you subtract 5.7 for the e-leveler 2. What value should I use for the e-leveler 1 (previous version)?
According to the e-leveler homepage 5.8mm.
Yes, 5.8 for original E-leveler.
Hello mr hellebuyck
I just wanted to thank you for all the help you provided over the last few years you did help me a lot. Big thanks to you❤ from Saudi 🇸🇦
50€ to get it in the eu, open source this please its 3dprinting after all
The first layer is the most NB!
Ok. I have one that I am gonna try on my ender 3. Wish me luck 😮
Hi I just got an e leveler for my ender 3 and was wondering if this method worked for you?
@Reign1134 haven't tried, I went with the new ender 3 with built in leveler.
Hi Chuck...thanks for all you do for the community...appreciate you!
So how does this work for the S1 Pro? Seems like a good tool (I bought one...worked well on my EV2 Neo), but the S1 Pro's leveling sequence does not seem to make using this tool a possibility.
I'm a dummy...missed where you noted that the cystom gcode raises it 5.7mm...all good... worked great!
All this 3d printing stuff is just make-believe.., We believe we can make things ;)
Hi, will this work in the Neptune 3 pro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Hey Chuck! I saw on the webpage that you have gcode for the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max with 6 wheels. Elegoo has a couple other versions of the Neptune 4 with different bed sizes and 6 wheels. Any chance we can either get gcode updates for those, or have a way to edit the gcode ourselves?
How does one set to the default 0.0 on an ender 6 with bltouch? It really helps with getting the baseline in but I'm struggling to understand how to dial it in from there.
Strange that the BL and CR touch don't do your second step to get the bed manually level.
Using the gcode for the 300x300 the last postion (number 4) doesn't stay in that spot before heading home. Any fix for this ? Thank you
same process with the e leveler 1?
I just measured the triggering thickness of my V1 leveler, using a micrometer, and it shows 0.230" or 5.842mm but that can vary based upon how you soldered it together, everyone could be different.
Hey Chuck, can you do one using Klipper? I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro and running a Sonic Pad. Not really sure how to get the Z-Offset zero'd, etc when using the E-Leveler. BTW, I have both the original and the V2 E-Leveler. Love them. Bought the Ender 2 Pro off of your recommendation and it a perfect little printer.
Same...the S1 Pro's leveling sequence doesn't seem to allow this method to be used...
Off topic question:
If my printer will sit for a week or so, should I remove the filament?
My s1 doesn't seem to use the mesh unless you append m420 s1 start gcode when you slice
i need this tool, but i don't know how to do it on my eleego neptune 4 :(
I’m on the same boat man, I know it works I’m just not figuring it out right
Hope someone find out. Just got my e level today for my pro 4
I have just gotten your e-leveler 2 and just now tried to set my z offset and it gave me wildly different numbers one being around the 4.69 mark and another being around the 3.20 mark when trying to double check it. it has changed im using an ender 3 v2 with jyers 5x5 firmware and silicone spaces and a Glass creality bed?
so what has gone wrong?
Can someone help me with this if I have a sonic pad?
sounds better then that bl touch that i got on my ender 3 pro that dose not work.
E-level gcode doesn’t run on a ender 3 max neo, could use some help.
Do u have a program for cr10 or will the program work on a cr10
I'm with you on that, I have two CR10 S5 and two CR10 S5. I wonder if this will work on my 3D printers I do not have automatic bed leveling.
i can't seem to access the website for the files anyone getting the same issue
How does it work for manual printers?
Is there something wrong with my ender neo?
Step 1: auto home
Step 2: move z to 0
Step 3 Z-offset with the device. After calculating it comes out at -03,2.
Step 4: save settings
Step 5: print the gcode
When I do step 5, the nozzle is so high above ground that I can't twist any further. The wheel will fall off and it still doesn't hit the tool. When I go to move z, it stands at 6.3 even though I saved the settings. If I load the settings, the Z-offset is still at - 03,2 and the z will be 0 but once I start "printing" the gcode, the z will go to 6 point something
You skipped a step between 2 and 3. Set Z offset to 0 before moving your step 3.
@@FilamentFriday i have silicone things (cant remember What the are called) but 1 of the 4 were smaller. I fixed it. Now printen beautifully. Thank you very much
Hi, will this work on an Anycubic Vyper?
My z offset on the ender 3 pro will NOT zero out. Its stops at .50! Now what?!
Adjust the z stop on the side.
Using this as a Z-Offset device destroyed my print bed and nozzle as i found out it doesnt work with my Klipperized Delta the same way it works on Marlin Enders. There's $70 buck down the drain.
What is my starting point on my knobs and springs?
Home it and adjust them close to nozzle but not touching then follow instructions here: ruclips.net/video/VHxug5qgWD0/видео.htmlsi=JFENtPDOuP9ys-hK
Is this the same for the lk5 pro
Will this method work on an Ender 3?
Very nice. Had I not just taken a hammer (seriously) to my Ender3, I’d have bought this and a new mother board and probe. Instead I ordered a Bambu.
would you do this on the k1 max?
I take it this will work on the Ender3 and pro?
I can’t figure out how to use the e leveler 2 with my elegoo pro 4 especially with setting up the z offset any help would be appreciated
Z offset doesn’t work with all machines. I don’t have that printer to test it on. But you can manually set the Z offset with it and then subtract 5.7 from the value and save that.
thanks
@@FilamentFriday
Have you ever tried bed spacers instead of springs? Just saw something about this recently, wondering if its worth the upgrade.
When the bed is heated it expands slightly and with spacers instead og springs your risk warping the bed. The springs gives it the little flex it needs, for the ender 3 you could buy the upgrade springs which are harder tighten all the way and then loosen 3 turns and level the bed.
@@safargris815 I have the upgraded springs. I also have an auto bed leveling probe, so slight differences are accounted for. Seen a couple newer machines use spacers.
@@maxcole4126 i know, Elegoo had spacers for the Neptune 3 pro series but moved away from it again on the newer Neptune 4 due to the increased risk of warped bed. So i would just stay with what you got and dont replace the springs with spacers.
What if I don’t have an auto level on my ender 3 pro?
My best trick that made a day and night difference, printing a 0.2mm(z) square by 30x30 and adjusting the offset until its a perfect layer.
cant seem to find this in Australia. amazon wont ship to me, any one know how to get one here
Amazon USA shipped it to me In in Sydney
does it work for ender 5 s1?
I noticed u changed the z offset from -2.74 to -2.82 why is that? I got confused
2.82 was original before I correctly set it to the measured value.
My z offset won’t zero out. Ender 3 pro. I tried contacting you but so far no reply. No support for your products Chuck?
How ender 3 pro is chuck´s product?
Is Sonic Pad something you like Chuck?
I tried it. Wasn’t really my thing.
A little confused. I’m using the ender 3 v3 se and just received the E-Leveler.
At the point where running the g code for leveling the four corners, you show adjusting the bed level with the knobs below. The Ender 3 V3 SE doesn’t have the manual leveling knobs. Can you explain how to perform this on this printer? Thanks!!
The E-Leveler does work with the SE. sorry for any confusion. You can return it.
Oh Man!! That stinks! Oh well. No worries. I love gadgets and this really caught my eye as I’m new to 3D printing. I’ve learned a lot from watching your videos and wanted to support.
Thanks for sharing.
did you mean to say it doesn't work with the SE? @@FilamentFriday
@kingozone - Yes. The SE doesn’t have adjustment knobs. It’s autolevel/auto z offset works perfectly.
Thanks! Good to know!@@FilamentFriday
My z was -1.2 I’m hovering over -0.500 I can’t go down any more or it’s going to hit the build plate
I’m wasting mad time waiting on a response… it’s been close to a month waiting on you to reply. I can’t even contact you from your website. Says I don’t have access to. 🤦🏽♂️ but I’m logged in and I’m a customer. I need help.
pretty much same here below +002.5 and hitting the bed
@malcom4k270 - Just saw this. Not sure I understand. Your nozzle ends up 0.5 above the bed and you don’t want to go lower and hit the bed?
Send me more detail email at chelleb1 at yahoo
I assume this wont work with Anycubic Vyper - there are no screws to adjust the bed. Just its built in auto level function.
Can this be used without the auto leveler?
Yes.
Mine just moves to the left and says complete
You can use the manual mode if your printer doesn’t read the GCode properly. It’s explained in the video around 3:10. ruclips.net/video/VHxug5qgWD0/видео.htmlsi=jraNhGim5xKJpHS4
I need to buy it but i don't know if you ship to Cyprus Nicosia city
Let me know
If Amazon.com can ship there but if not then I’m sorry, we can’t. Check Amazon with your location.
I don't have auto level😢
Where can I buy it though? It's not listed for sale on your website.
i purchased it through Amazon, but ive waited for 2 weeks now though, a bit long in my opinion, not shipped yet
I ordered it on amazon and got it next day.
Is it possible to use this klipper?
While you could use this for klipper, I think using the `BED_SCREWS_ADJUST` will give you a more accurate adjustment.
can you make a file for elegoo neptune 4 plus or max cause they have 6 leveling knobs
We have a beta version on the site. www.chepclub.com/e-leveler2.html
i was just about to ask the same thing..cheers have the 4 plus on the way@@FilamentFriday
@@FilamentFridayshould I use the Ender 3 300x300 for the Neptune 4 plus?
@3dpathfinder - There is a beta for the Neptune 4 on the same download page.
I did see the 4 max wasn't sure if there was one for the 4 plus. 320x320
I found that, by using the calculated number, I had the nozzle touching the bed.
Why don't you need to add an offset to this? I.e., the z-offset can't be zero (nozzle touching the bed), the nozzle has to be a small amount above the bed. There has to be room for the material to extrude and for the nozzle to move (if it's touching the bed, it will drag on the bed when the bed/nozzle moves) When you set the z-offset with a piece of paper, you're setting a gap the thickness of the paper between the nozzle and the bed.
With this, if I set my z-offset and z-position to zero and then adjust the z-offset with the light like you describe, the nozzle is at some known height (5.7mm) above the bed when I remove the leveler. Then, I subtract the known height from the readout of the z-offset, (since the z-axis is still at 0), which gives me a negative number for z-offset, i.e. how far the build surface is below the machine's arbitrary "Z=0" point. This is all fine and makes good sense.
BUT, we don't want the nozzle touching the bed, we want it a little bit (about 0.1mm, according to Ender) up, right? So shouldn't the calculation be ([z-offset from given process]+0.1mm)-5.7mm?
Neat tool and my squares came out nice. The mechanism is super simple but ingenious, and the "bed up/down" arrows are way more helpful than I thought they'd be.
I'm sorry to be the fly in the ointment, but in the time you ran the Z offset with the E-leveler, then manually leveled the bed with the E-Leveler (time speed up 4x), then Auto Leveled the bed, I could have manually leveled all 3 of printers with a post-it note. I truly don't understand what the advantage of the Z offset is. If the bed is level, what function does the Z offset do? Why do you have to make an adjustment?
To get the autolevel setup right.
Fair enough. Think I'll stay low tech with a post-it note. Cheers. @@FilamentFriday
One thing is having the bed at the same relative distance from the noozle across the board (let's call it a a leveled bed) and another unrelated thing is the absolute z-offset number you need for your machine. You could have a perfectly leveled bed and if the z offset is 1 million meters away then 🤷🏻♂️
But doesn't the Z offset adjust the distance between your bed and nozzle? And if so, if your bed is level, then why do you adjust the Z. I have 3 printers, 1 has a BL on it and I have to play with the Z, the other 2 do not, and I have NEVER, EVER in 2.5 years adjusted the Z on those 2 and my prints are spot on. @@Drumaier
Hey all. Trying again on my E3 Max with Sprite Pro installed. Where Chep says use the e-offset to lower the the nozzel, mine does not do that. Should i should I be using the Move Z axis instead as mine is not an E3 pro.
Your g code for the leveler doesn't work for me
What printer?
@@FilamentFriday ender 3 max neo
What hight do you set it at to be able to do the bed leveling g codes don't work ...
is there a way for me to diy the e leveler 2? i just checked the store and buying on amazon in my country is very costly.. specially if i only need to buy or have the money to buy the eleveler
if you can solder, get a proto pcb, resister, contact switch, battery holder, led
Mine just came today will it work on a Neptune 4 pro? What size should I use in the files ?
Will this work on a Core XY machine, Ender 6?
Can i have the hit bed at 80 and the nozzle at 200 while using this?
It’s not recommended as cold temps work well.
These videos explain:
ruclips.net/video/NlUO-5EtB44/видео.htmlsi=3urJjx7DRQEGk39H
ruclips.net/video/MNVCDNW0RoU/видео.htmlsi=x_KzhZne0QRyOln9