I only use PB Blaster.. I tried Fluid film, white lithium grease and they just slowed them down. Living in Michigan we see some pretty nasty winters and my boards keep going, in fact the passenger side on mine gets used about once or twice a year and has been frozen solid to the rocker at times and still works great. The only thing I use now is PB blaster about once a year on a 14 year old truck and they work great. If you have one that's not coming down all the way or going up and then back down spray the sh*t out of it with PB and use your foot and keep opening and closing the door till it goes by itself, spray again and keep running it up & down. No need for expensive rust preventative of grease.
I felt Ford Tech Makuloco's advise is a total waste of time and effort. I appreciate your acknowledgement spraying does nothing itself. Your method with air is a valid attempt to get lubrication into the bearings. I agree with @oldfarthacks that the only true repair is to replace the bearings. Lubrication will only cover up bad bearings for so long. The best defense against failure is Ford's advise: keep these things clean. Power wash them often. In the end these boards will fall within 4-8 years. For this reason I prepay the repair with an extended warranty. I used it on my last truck. I'm betting again I'll use it on my new truck.
Thanks for the kind mention. I do have a whole playlist on how to set these up to take grease fittings. It also covers all aspects of replacing these bushings. That play list is here: ruclips.net/p/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_
The real fix is to replace the bushings. The plastic coating on the inside over time tears off the bushings and sticks to the pins. The result is a bound up bearing. Yes, you can put the job off for a little while, but in the end the bearings need to be replaced. A new set of bushings is available on E-Bay for 39.99. You press the shafts out and replace the bearings, then you are good for about another 5 or 6 years.
The solution that I have gone to is to replace the bushings with the after market ones and at the same time set the pivot points up with grease fittings. Then I use a moly based grease. It provides replacement friction reduction and at the same time the process of greasing pushes the road junk out of the joint.
The whole process is shown in this series of videos. This includes getting the bushings, but as a quick note, mine came from eBay. ruclips.net/p/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_
Very informative video, I want to get this on my F150, I heard issues getting stucked specially in cold days mixed with salt and sand is not good for this chick. The good thing is exposed,I remember flip up head lights that didn't last long same issues in cold weather. I need to add it to the maintenance fall and spring to make sure she's working smooth. How about Grease?
The bushings are not set up to take grease. I do a process in my videos on this problem showing how to modify the pins to take zerk fittings. That whole process is covered in this play list: ruclips.net/p/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_
Mine comes out when u open the door goes back in when when u close the door then comes back out and stays out. Some times it stays in when it should most time it doesn’t like it has a mind of its own and im ride around while the driver side out and passenger side is in smh. Can this be a start of needing to be lubricated?
I've never had to manually do it no matter how bound up they were as long as the motor was still good you can open the door and really Jam them down when they're trying to open and eventually they free up my I've never tried to do it manually so I don't know
Is surface rust covered under warranty? I was told that it only is when it rust through. Believe it or not my 18ST has surface rust on the frame of the engine bay. Dealer told me “they have no idea where my car has been.” I don’t live on a beach and the car has never been. Hood is never is left open. I think water leaks through some caps located right below the wiper area. There is a cap on each side. I pointed it out and they didn’t say anything other than they would send pictures to Ford. Should I have another dealer look at it? They told me it was not covered*
They are, within the initial warranty period. Fact is, ALL powered running boards suffer from this (only one actual manufacturer...sound a lot like magma). Instead of the service centers cleaning and lubricating these things they replace them. Replacing them, even under warranty, makes them a whole lot more money than 30 minutes of cleaning. I was quoted $3400 to replace my Expeditions running boards, and the service garage said "They are totally frozen". I told them "They are turned off in the UI, turn them back on", they said "we did, totally frozen, MUST be replaced". Nope, took it home turned them back on, and cleaned and lubricated them. 30 minutes and off we went. Wife took it back to the dealership for an oil change and the guy she deals with said "Oh, so you DID replace them"..."No you idiot, my husband went online and saw how to clean and lubricate them, they work just fine". This is now a yearly maintenance item...15 ~ 20 minutes now.
Shop Air
Bristle Brass Brush
white lithium grease
PB Blaster or a penetrating oil of choice
Patience
I only use PB Blaster.. I tried Fluid film, white lithium grease and they just slowed them down. Living in Michigan we see some pretty nasty winters and my boards keep going, in fact the passenger side on mine gets used about once or twice a year and has been frozen solid to the rocker at times and still works great. The only thing I use now is PB blaster about once a year on a 14 year old truck and they work great. If you have one that's not coming down all the way or going up and then back down spray the sh*t out of it with PB and use your foot and keep opening and closing the door till it goes by itself, spray again and keep running it up & down. No need for expensive rust preventative of grease.
Wearing headphones... proceed to have eardrums blasted out.
I felt Ford Tech Makuloco's advise is a total waste of time and effort. I appreciate your acknowledgement spraying does nothing itself. Your method with air is a valid attempt to get lubrication into the bearings. I agree with @oldfarthacks that the only true repair is to replace the bearings. Lubrication will only cover up bad bearings for so long. The best defense against failure is Ford's advise: keep these things clean. Power wash them often. In the end these boards will fall within 4-8 years. For this reason I prepay the repair with an extended warranty. I used it on my last truck. I'm betting again I'll use it on my new truck.
Thanks for the kind mention. I do have a whole playlist on how to set these up to take grease fittings. It also covers all aspects of replacing these bushings. That play list is here: ruclips.net/p/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_
The real fix is to replace the bushings. The plastic coating on the inside over time tears off the bushings and sticks to the pins. The result is a bound up bearing. Yes, you can put the job off for a little while, but in the end the bearings need to be replaced. A new set of bushings is available on E-Bay for 39.99. You press the shafts out and replace the bearings, then you are good for about another 5 or 6 years.
These don't even last a year before they start locking up
If you have information on the bushings share the link right here
I saw your video, but what the part number of that bushes?
The solution that I have gone to is to replace the bushings with the after market ones and at the same time set the pivot points up with grease fittings. Then I use a moly based grease. It provides replacement friction reduction and at the same time the process of greasing pushes the road junk out of the joint.
The whole process is shown in this series of videos. This includes getting the bushings, but as a quick note, mine came from eBay.
ruclips.net/p/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_
Imma try this mine are so rusted that I hear the motor works but they don't move at all .
Thank you. Very helpful!
Very informative video,
I want to get this on my F150, I heard issues getting stucked specially in cold days mixed with salt and sand is not good for this chick.
The good thing is exposed,I remember flip up head lights that didn't last long same issues in cold weather.
I need to add it to the maintenance fall and spring to make sure she's working smooth.
How about Grease?
The bushings are not set up to take grease. I do a process in my videos on this problem showing how to modify the pins to take zerk fittings. That whole process is covered in this play list: ruclips.net/p/PLoz-2IH4A2KsZiDXB0f-hhKZtAzO_wuO_
Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
@@FordBossMe Yours is the best you can do without doing the actual rebuild on the bushings.
Awesome vid man. Thank you!
Mine comes out when u open the door goes back in when when u close the door then comes back out and stays out. Some times it stays in when it should most time it doesn’t like it has a mind of its own and im ride around while the driver side out and passenger side is in smh. Can this be a start of needing to be lubricated?
Got an issue with mine, they’re stuck in the up position and can’t get them to deploy. 2016 F150.
How do you remove the running boards from the truck if they are stuck closed? You need them extended to gain access to the mounting bolts.
You're going to have to use something or step on the running boards and force them to the exterior position so you can get to the bolts
UFORTUNATELY you're going to have to pry
In general, you can apply pressure to the board in the downward position as you open the door. This will allow you to bring the board down.
great tips. i have one side stuck in up position
Can these running boards be manually lowered and retracted? If so how? I can’t get my 2016 to deploy.
I've never had to manually do it no matter how bound up they were as long as the motor was still good you can open the door and really Jam them down when they're trying to open and eventually they free up my I've never tried to do it manually so I don't know
@@FordBossMe I’ll give it a go! Thank you!
Is surface rust covered under warranty? I was told that it only is when it rust through. Believe it or not my 18ST has surface rust on the frame of the engine bay. Dealer told me “they have no idea where my car has been.” I don’t live on a beach and the car has never been. Hood is never is left open. I think water leaks through some caps located right below the wiper area. There is a cap on each side. I pointed it out and they didn’t say anything other than they would send pictures to Ford. Should I have another dealer look at it? They told me it was not covered*
this is an aftermarket warranty so no its not covered or factory isn't either
@@FordBossMe thanks. Its not too bad but knowing its there bothers me.
I use a rust neutralizer chemical when I see it starting
They are, within the initial warranty period. Fact is, ALL powered running boards suffer from this (only one actual manufacturer...sound a lot like magma). Instead of the service centers cleaning and lubricating these things they replace them. Replacing them, even under warranty, makes them a whole lot more money than 30 minutes of cleaning. I was quoted $3400 to replace my Expeditions running boards, and the service garage said "They are totally frozen". I told them "They are turned off in the UI, turn them back on", they said "we did, totally frozen, MUST be replaced". Nope, took it home turned them back on, and cleaned and lubricated them. 30 minutes and off we went. Wife took it back to the dealership for an oil change and the guy she deals with said "Oh, so you DID replace them"..."No you idiot, my husband went online and saw how to clean and lubricate them, they work just fine". This is now a yearly maintenance item...15 ~ 20 minutes now.