I'm impressed. Way more detail-oriented than I ever was. I merely get under the F150 every fall and paint on bar-and-chain oil. Let it soak into the surface rust and everything. I'm sure this is a better fix than what I've done, but 28 Pennsylvania winters in my F150 and it's been "good enough." Just a heads-up that even halfassing it is far better than doing nothing.
Nope, way to much manual labor. Impressive on your part. I learned the hard way that Transmission fluid is a superb under body coating. I had a Transfer case shell out going down the interstate. Transmission fluid covered everything rear ward. That part of my vehicle never rusted out. Everything not coated turned to dust. I agree with bcubed.. doing SOMETHING can help greatly. Used oil, Diesel, Tranny fluid, Fluid Film.
@@Milkman3572000you can do that, or just paint the frame good once, spray that on later in winter if you’re gonna have a bad winter. I have a 2006 with a completely factory coated frame still no rust, no need to do that imo unless you never clean the truck or have an insane amount of salt on the roads
Here in Canada, rust proofing products are rediculously expensive so I started making my own. Using a drill powered paint mixer, mix one 400 g tube of Valvoline grease with two quarts of chain saw bar and chain oil. Spray with a comprressed air undercoating sprayer.
That’s interesting- I’ve heard of grease and atf… I guess that’s similar to vasoline and bar chain oil! I’ve heard that PB blaster undercoating outperforms all rustoleum products at preventing new rust and inhibiting old rust
How well does that mixture spray? My 5 gallon bucket of fluid film is almost empty, and I'm not going to spend the money on that product. I was also going to use bar oil...mixing in grease sounds great if it will spray okay. I have the fluid film gun that has the long wand to get into tight spaces.
It depends on your sprayer. Using a inexpensive Princes Auto (think Harbor Freight in the states) sprayer, I use 70 to 80 PSI. I want to blast the covering into crevices.
Old timer years ago told me to mix Diesel with used motor Oil, shake it up and lay it on with a pump sprayer or compressor. He said it will drain into all the cracks and crevices that water does and protect it. He ran a Square Body dually with a Mason bed on it until he passed. 1986 GMC almost rust free for 20 years in Connecticut Winters. My go to for rust prevention, cheap and used oil is free
This video inspired me to deep clean the underside of my vehicle, removed all ny plastic panels under there, rust converted all of it, and now im about undercoat it with fluid film 😊
I have been using a rust converter called Corroseal. It can be painted on, it's not poisonous and it leaves a beautiful black finish, but it still needs to be top coated. And it is water cleanup. So because I don't have a lift this is perfect for me.
I used to get under my 97 Sierra and scrape and wire brush and repaint and it just kept rusting and flaking off. Finally started shooting Fluid Film underside that was the answer to keep the truck on the road. Sometimes I heat it on a hot plate and put in shavings of paraffin (an old candle works) and shot it while it's warm. That's been the best thing so far.
The reason paint doesn't work is because it chips so any salt water mixture will just get into the chipped areas and underneath the paint. The reason fluid film works is that it self heals, when an area gets exposed since it never becomes completely solid it will just fill the exposed area in
Nice job. Definitely remember to get inside the fenders and tailgate. There are small squares under the rocker panels that allow you to save the rockers. There's about 10 on each side.
About 40 years ago, I started using a 50/50 mix of used oil and diesel. We usually carried about six tons of salt for traction and to apply on the roads and lots. The 50/ 50 mixture would last for about one storm, that was about three days and nights of plowing, salting and hauling. Then we used Fluid Fluid Film. That would last about one month and we would reapply. Now we are using a product made by Rohmar, we touch it up twice a year, that takes about 15 minutes.
Awesome job! You've done everything that is reasonably possible to do on an older vehicle to preserve the frame. Brush painting the frame everywhere that you can reach with a brush with Rust-o-leum will apply a thicker coat of paint and then follow up with the spray cans to reach anywhere that the brush couldn't and it might save a few bucks on paint. Been hearing great things about Surface Shield, but although we have a number of products by PB Blaster available in Canada, I haven't been able to find the Surface Shield product anywhere.
@@antinazi1959 No. PB Blaster "Penetrant" oil is available at Home Depot, but PB Blaster "Surface Shield" is not available in stores, or online at Home Depot, or at ACE Hardware in Canada.
Well done - always nice to see a 1st gen Tacoma get new life. Also, using the Surface Shield in the gallon format is WAY better than the cans. I went the can route and it was a nightmare - they clog up after about 20 seconds of spraying and the nozzle needs to be taken apart and cleaned out. Always go with the gallon and a sprayer!
Excellent job. Probably could've gone straight to Surface Shield after cleaning the rust and power washing. Paint will flake eventually - regular sprays of surface shield or Fluid Film won't. Helluva job 👍
Manual descaling. Then Corroseal. Goes on like milk or wood glue, turns black, takes 24 hours. ($100.00 per gallon) then Rust Oleum primer, then Rust Oleum High Gloss enamel. Same effect. I did use White Rust Oleum enamel around the inside of the frame to track any further rusting. Ranger frames have one side open. Yep. Corroseal. Works Great. Thank you for this.
So true! Something I really don’t want to have to do again. Just think, if everyone started undercoating their vehicle at new we’d all be in a better spot.
Wow! just wow!!! You have a lot of patience my friend. Very, VERY impressive man. I have a 2012 "dead-mint" Ram 1500 Sport. I just had it completely sprayed with "corrosion-free". After doing the entire undercarriage, they also sprayed inside the frame, rockers, door panels, inside tailgate etc ... From what I can gather, "krown" was rated #1 (forever) until just a few years ago. I hear they are now rated #2 with "corrosion-free" being the top dog, but now I'm wondering if I should've taken the time to do the same amazing job that you did to your truck BEFORE I got undercoated. Man that's impressive bud. Awesome job! What are the odds of you posting a "1 year later" vid? You have over 175,000 views so I'm sure that 1,000's would love to see it. I know I would!
If yours was dead-mint I’m assuming your frame was super good! I wouldn’t worry about doing everything I did, just use your preference best undercoating spray and call it good! I would update but I ended up selling it.. A guy flew in from Montana , 20 ours away from me and bought it. On the search now for my tundra.. I’m not loaded so my price range is like 15K. I’ve been looking for weeks and they’re all rusty!! If more people would just spray their frames from the get go, we would all be able to save some money. I’ll probably end up flying to Texas to get one. Then be spraying the frame as soon as I get back to Iowa lol.
Corrosion Free 3000? Started spraying rusty door bottoms in 2017 it stopped the rust from progressing all the way until I sold it in 2023. Definitely my favorite for low splash areas.
Wow, what can I say? I am going to do the exact same thing on my 2003 Silverado 2500 HD, I started a snow plowing business. I found that the older cat eye Silverado’s 6.0 work better than the new trucks, they are simple to fix. In a bind there’s nothing fancy. Problem is the only thing that goes wrong in the winter is the salt either rots , transmission line, fuel line, brake line, power steering line etc. I ordered every single line on the whole vehicle factory pre bent stainless steel , actually not much more expensive than the regular steel. You did an amazing job, and I appreciate the video. We all know a Toyota will run forever. The only thing standing in its way is a rusty frame, way to protect your investment
I worked in a body shop for years. If you were close to Buffalo New York, I can paint the door and the tailgate.😂 the good thing is it’s black, so you do not have to overlap the adjacent panel
you have to apply rust proofing before the rust starts. once the rust starts, it’s too late. I bought a ram big horn 1500 hemi in 2017. I took it home, and I rushed proofed it before it ever saw rain or salt in October here in Pennsylvania. I have the videos of the annual inspections of my chassis and the rest of my truck on RUclips. I have the yearly inspection of my room, since I rush, proved it when it was only five days old with fluid film on RUclips before winter and after winter over the past seven years. So I have quite a few videos on RUclips inspecting under my truck here in Western, Pennsylvania, where they salt the roads for four months of the year every winter… this just reminded me to do my 2024 inspection video for RUclips on my channel. I did my truck in my gravel driveway, I bought the special spray gun and a gallon of fluid film on eBay for around $75. I removed the wheels, I remove the plastic fender inner liners, I removed the 16 or 18 rubber plugs along the rocker panels, I remove the headlight and tail light assemblies so that I could get all the way in everywhere on the truck, every hole, one of my videos shows how fluid film travels. You just have to be close like with Handgrenades. I sprayed under the bed of my truck when I first brought it home in 2017 with the spraygun taking my time. I noticed for years later that that fluid film traveled up into the bed of my truck through a seam. I didn’t know was there because my bed on my ram has a factory black spray on coating. That fluid film found a way to get through that. That stuff travels up hill.. I also bought the 3 foot long attachment for the spray cans that you can buy for $10 or $11 at Lowe’s and Home Depot. This attachment goes on top of the spray can when you remove the nozzle, and replace it with the special nozzle that has a long plastic tube with a brass jet on the end. The brass jet makes the stream come out 360° to the side, it doesn’t make it come out straight and it comes out very fast, so when you stick that up your door post all the way to the roof through one of the holes, you wanna pull that thing out while pulling the trigger in about two or three seconds, because you can completely empty. That spray can probably in about 20 seconds if you just hold the trigger with that special nozzle that I bought on eBay for $14.. The only thing under my truck that is rusty are the drivers and the drive shaft. The drivers spin, the front wheel, drive shafts, and the drive shaft to the rear axle is rusty. Nothing sticks to them because they spin and centrifugal force removes anything you spray on them. I imagine some special paint like POR15 would stick, but I tried that POR15 on my. GMC pick up after it started resting to try to save it, and I got some of that stuff on my skin, even though it says all over the label of that POR15 can not to get that on your skin. I had to go to two different skin doctors after I got that on my wrist where my gloves stopped in my long sleeve shirt had a gap. on my channel I also have a video of a horrifically rusted ram pick up. This truck is actually dangerous that I took video of and put on my channel, there was no area of the truck that was not sharply dangerously rusted with lots of metal missing. We have annual state inspections here in Pennsylvania, I cannot believe that thing was roadworthy and would pass Pennsylvania safety inspection. But I have video of what happens to ram pick up trucks if you do not rust proof them where they throw salt.. in 2023, I bought a guitar from a guy on craigslist, and when I got to his house he had the same truck I have. A 2017 ram bighorn hemi. I asked him how he liked it. He said he loves it, but his mechanic buddy, that does his inspections and oil changes told him to get rid of it because, the rust is gonna start coming through everywhere on the truck. The mechanic told him that he would replace the quarter panels for $3000 if he wanted to keep the truck for a while, but that’s not gonna stop the rush that has already started on the rocker panels the doors, the tailgate the fenders and even the hood.. his truck only had 52,000 miles on it, and he hast to get rid of it just because of the rust.. Anyway, if anyone wants to see what it looks like under my ram pick up year after year of inspections, that I have videos on my RUclips channel, take a look
"you have to apply rust proofing before the rust starts. once the rust starts, it’s too late." Exactly this! All these videos where they try and remove rust and paint it with black undercoating is to make it look pretty for a little while. The rust still continues to form underneath. The time to rust protect the underside of a vehicle is when it's brand new without any rust having formed.
Lanolin based undercoating products like Fluid Film and Wool Wax can be sprayed directly on rust, and if reapplied every couple of years will stop the rust cold. No need to do the de-rusting treatment which may cause more problems than it solves.
@@stevenh4970 I will admit that from tests I have seen, that Surface Shield leaves a durable film even after the lanolin has worn off. That said, my 2018 model Chicago based car which has been Fluid Filmed three times, looks almost like a new car underneath. So, I wouldn't say that it sucks exactly.
Thank you very much for your video. I am up in Alaska, and I intend to follow a very similar route. My process is looking like this: 1. Wash/degrease 2. Knock off the chunks of rust/grind 3. Wash and break clean 4. Rust kutter 5. Rinse 6. Rust kutter 7. Rinse 8. Rustoleum clean metal primer (I spoke with Rustoleum and they said if you are converting before hand and you will have mostly converted/bare metal then you should use this primer as it will still handle some rust if you missed any, and it will give the enamel better adhesion) 9. Rustoleum professional protective enamel 10. Herculiner roll-on bedliner (specifically excels at deflecting rock-chips in cold climates per project farm) 11. Following, In the frame rails and behind pinch welds/seams I intend to use rust kutter at step 4 and then follow that up with fluid film after step 11 (a product i wouldn't use anywhere else because it grosses me out) Thanks again for making this very thorough video.
Just a note, that rust kutter is wicked. Definitely wear a long sleeve shirt, goggles and mask. I accidently had a bunch that dripped on my arm and face when I was under my vehicle after applying it, and it burned my skin like there was no tomorrow.
@@JRESHOW Oh ya. I thankfully was wearing eye protection, just not a long sleeve shirt. It burned right through two layers of skin on my arm, and one layer on my face. But no big deal, far from the heart. The rust kutter destroys that rust though, so worth it if you are in Canada.
Nice work! The only recommendation I have is to do your deep cleaning/degreasing _before_ removing the rust. This way you don't end up spreading around the contaminants and driving them into the metal. Then you can do another lite degreasing afterwards.
Great video. I've been looking into how I am going to remove rust and paint the underside of my truck, and I think when I do, I'll do it like this. Thanks man!
Awesome video! Very detailed. Its a long process and I get bored quick lol I did my nissan frontier today but did it quick. Knocked out whatever rust was loose, air blew it, then applied loctite naval jelly. Worked decent but its harder to apply then it wouldve been with your rust kutter by spraying it. Finally i power washed it. Next weekend i will apply the fluid film. I wont be painting or undercoating. Too much work and I heard undercoating isnt as good as one would think.
This is pretty much what i did to my old subaru. Wire brushed the under carriage for hours, sprayed it with over a quart of rust dissolver, pressure washed it when it had done its work, let it dry, then soak the entire under carriage with half a gallon of linseed oil using a spray gun (including inside the beams and structural members) It is an awesome feeling! Now to see how it looks in a few years. Linseed oil needs to be reapplied every year or two, but now that the worst part is done, its more a quick once over (unless some catastrophic areas reveal themselves)
I used Corroseal and then once it dried, I covered it all with Fluid Film. It was a Honda Element. And if you know Elements, you know you gotta protect those rear suspension components
"put down a tarp" then continues to do everything over pavers 😂😂😂 nice video man. I have an f150 and if I do a rust delete I'll be sure to follow this process
Nice video. The gas tank on my car recently fell on the ground after filling it up at a gas station. Someone was calling me on my cell phone and I pulled into a space while in the gasoline station. While I was parked and attending to my phone I heard a noise. I thought someone had thrown something at my car or may be a tire hit my car from the highway. I saw nothing. So I got back in the car. I did not jump on the highway right away which was next to the gasoline station. After a while I started up the car and someone got behind my car while I had it in reverse. I did not in a million years think that I would be dragging my gas tank. It really freaked me out. I called me insurance and a tow truck came and put those pulling straps to hold it. They could not move it because it was full of gasoline. So they had to use a small flat jack to lift it up. The straps held it in place. I am thinking about putting a long metal flat bar attached to the chassis with Chrome screws to prevent the tank from falling again. The tank is sitting upright in a vertical position in front of the trunk. Death was following me, but God was on my side I guess. For those who have have not had this happened to them CHECK underneath that the gas tank is secure from those metal straps as well as the fuel lines and brake lines, especially if your car is old and has rust. Do not ignore the rust. We are used to just checking under the hood, but if you are living in the north you are at risk because of the rust. I hope I have saved lives with this information. Get undercoating and clean that rust before it spreads like a cancer. It can be very very dangerous and serious, especially if you have family riding in your car. This is serious stuff. Thank you for sharing your video with us.
💯💯💯 I won’t buy or even go look at a car/truck without first seeing pics of the underbody. Most people don’t look and could care less. But it’s a big deal.
It will stay wet looking for a bit and will collect a extra protective layer of dirt and dust, then it doesn’t look so wet. It looks like a flat black. But when you take your finger nail to it it’s got a nice layer of build up to protect the frame. Back in the day they used to use oil and hit a gravel road to accomplish a similar protection.
Thanks a heap for posting this video. I have a Hilux that I'm restoring and I was trying to figure out how I was going to get the kill rust into the inside of the chassis frame. Cheers 👍👍👍
I just grinded and put phosphoric acid prior to undercoating on ONE cross member of my pickup's frame and it took me closer to three hours and I was covered with dust after that. I can't even comprehend how someone could do the entire frame at once. Thank god the previous owner had it undercoated before me so it's almost rust free from the front to the rear of the cabin and only the parts sandblasted by the rear tires are rusting
Thank you so much for sharing this. By the way excellent work question would you still spray nuts and bolts, if you do that wouldn’t cause problems loosening, or tightening bolts and nuts?
I use corraseal with a pump sprayer...do it every fall before plow season...it works good depending on how thick and the temperature outside when I do it...alot of spots I don't have to do it again but I do anyways...it turns a dark black when it's done it's thing
Dam, great job. After all my experience and testing. he did it exactly the best way possible next to dry ice blasting and cosmoline which is too costly for a non collector car. Great work, wonder if they havea black surface shield to skip the painting step or tint with graphite powder.
Two questions: -How did you clean out the Rust Kutter from the spray gun/nozzle/reservoir before switching to the Surface Shield? -What was your compressor set-up with the needle scaler (SCFM, size of air tank, etc.)? I've heard needle scalers require large compressors/reservoirs.
Curious about the CFM as well. Most affordable ones are only rated for about 2 or 3 CFM which apparently isn't all that much. If you want 10 or more the compressors run $6k to $12k.
I ended up selling the truck but have a test running now on a new 2023 tundra… I’ve also got some steel that’s going through some test but nothing really to show yet. It held up great for the first year and winter before selling. Guy flew from 20 hours away to buy it. It’s good stuff. Just a simple wire brush and spraying the undercoat will suffice
I've done it with tacky bar and chain oil. It doesn't "dry" completely, but it eventually gets the same consistency as the gunk on a bicycle/motorcycle chain as it dries. Almost like a tacky grease. Don't rub up against it, but it won't drip on you or your driveway after about a week.
phosphoric acid (what the rust kutter is) will turn the iron oxide into iron phosphate so yea it can be directly painted, maybe good to just brush it a bit to get dusty bits off. Probably better to leave it on actually vs cleaning it with water though
Too many lol. I bought a tundra and am just going to wire burst the rust, spray the rust cutter, and spray the undercoating. Gonna skip the primer and paint. The undercoat does good alone. I’ve tested it on metal in my back yard for the last year and it had 3 feet of snow on it and I literally threw a bucket of salt to melt it all and it was still good. Just keep up with undercoat if you don’t want to paint, it takes a lot of time.
Bless your energy and stamina...Can you come to philly and do my Silverado?...:)... I'd rather climb a ladder than crawl around under my truck...:)...It's not bad if you have a lift that you can walk under...I can't believe how many times you power washed it...
Is it bad to leave the rust cutter sitting inside the frame? Or should you rinse it out? I’ve heard different opinions on rinsing/wiping it off and leaving it on under the paint.
I admire your tenacity. Everything you did won't prevent rust from forming, undercoating needs to be done with oil, specifically, Husqvarna bar and chain oil, if you heat it up you can spray it into every crack and crevice, it's the only thing that works in the rust belt.
Hey You did a great job. I know as you think about how and what you did what if anything you would change ? The descaling was good idea along with the rust killer converter and spray gun. Excellent video
That would work too as long as you keep up with it from year to year, just checking to make sure you still got a coating on there. I like to spray this stuff and hit a gravel road to create another barrier. This stuff held up great after a year, and I didn’t have to but I put another coat on and drove more gravel roads. I’ve got a nice build up now that I can prolly go a few years no worries. So in short, yea, just spray the surface shield on the bare metal.
@@JRESHOW oh great - I haven't done mine yet. Did you need to go through the engine bay at all to clean things up? Or is everything accessible from below?
I'm impressed. Way more detail-oriented than I ever was. I merely get under the F150 every fall and paint on bar-and-chain oil. Let it soak into the surface rust and everything.
I'm sure this is a better fix than what I've done, but 28 Pennsylvania winters in my F150 and it's been "good enough." Just a heads-up that even halfassing it is far better than doing nothing.
Nope, way to much manual labor. Impressive on your part. I learned the hard way that Transmission fluid is a superb under body coating. I had a Transfer case shell out going down the interstate. Transmission fluid covered everything rear ward. That part of my vehicle never rusted out. Everything not coated turned to dust.
I agree with bcubed.. doing SOMETHING can help greatly. Used oil, Diesel, Tranny fluid, Fluid Film.
@@Milkman3572000you can do that, or just paint the frame good once, spray that on later in winter if you’re gonna have a bad winter. I have a 2006 with a completely factory coated frame still no rust, no need to do that imo unless you never clean the truck or have an insane amount of salt on the roads
Just did my silverado in bar and chain oil. Never tried it before. Does it hold up all winter and not wash off?
@@jeremyniles2676 depends on where you’re at and what your city uses for deicer. If you have mild winters then yeah, harsh winters? No
@@jeremyniles2676did it hold?
Here in Canada, rust proofing products are rediculously expensive so I started making my own. Using a drill powered paint mixer, mix one 400 g tube of Valvoline grease with two quarts of chain saw bar and chain oil. Spray with a comprressed air undercoating sprayer.
That’s interesting- I’ve heard of grease and atf… I guess that’s similar to vasoline and bar chain oil!
I’ve heard that PB blaster undercoating outperforms all rustoleum products at preventing new rust and inhibiting old rust
How well does that mixture spray? My 5 gallon bucket of fluid film is almost empty, and I'm not going to spend the money on that product. I was also going to use bar oil...mixing in grease sounds great if it will spray okay. I have the fluid film gun that has the long wand to get into tight spaces.
It sprays well with any cheep undercoating gun. If not, just thin slightly with paint thiner. The thiner will evaporate off leaving the coating.
how much psi is needed for your mix ?
It depends on your sprayer. Using a inexpensive Princes Auto (think Harbor Freight in the states) sprayer, I use 70 to 80 PSI. I want to blast the covering into crevices.
Old timer years ago told me to mix Diesel with used motor Oil, shake it up and lay it on with a pump sprayer or compressor. He said it will drain into all the cracks and crevices that water does and protect it. He ran a Square Body dually with a Mason bed on it until he passed. 1986 GMC almost rust free for 20 years in Connecticut Winters. My go to for rust prevention, cheap and used oil is free
If it’s cheap and it works !!!! 💯💯💯
I do that. Just sprayed my car's underside. We guna see in the next springtime how it's worked out.
This video inspired me to deep clean the underside of my vehicle, removed all ny plastic panels under there, rust converted all of it, and now im about undercoat it with fluid film 😊
I have been using a rust converter called Corroseal. It can be painted on, it's not poisonous and it leaves a beautiful black finish, but it still needs to be top coated. And it is water cleanup. So because I don't have a lift this is perfect for me.
The lesson here,don't let it get this far before you rust proof.Good job.
Exactly!!! It’s easy/affordable to do!
I used to get under my 97 Sierra and scrape and wire brush and repaint and it just kept rusting and flaking off. Finally started shooting Fluid Film underside that was the answer to keep the truck on the road. Sometimes I heat it on a hot plate and put in shavings of paraffin (an old candle works) and shot it while it's warm. That's been the best thing so far.
Similar here. I'm experimenting for long time. Go see if you want "10 year of using cold galvanizing". At end we all come to Valvoline and Cosmoline.
The reason paint doesn't work is because it chips so any salt water mixture will just get into the chipped areas and underneath the paint. The reason fluid film works is that it self heals, when an area gets exposed since it never becomes completely solid it will just fill the exposed area in
I use fluid Film as well and I love it. I mix in some fresh 15w40 engine oil with it. It works so well.
Ratio please?
@Penland1234 I honestly just pour some oil in. If I had to guess I would say 20% oil 80% fluid Film.
Pull the plugs from the rockers and doors, spray fluid film inside and also remove taillight to treat inside wheel house of the bed.
Pro tip 👊🏻
It is my experience to. If not spraying something in cavities things will rust through. My tread is "10 year of using cold galvanizng"
Nice job. Definitely remember to get inside the fenders and tailgate. There are small squares under the rocker panels that allow you to save the rockers. There's about 10 on each side.
About 40 years ago, I started using a 50/50 mix of used oil and diesel. We usually carried about six tons of salt for traction and to apply on the roads and lots. The 50/ 50 mixture would last for about one storm, that was about three days and nights of plowing, salting and hauling. Then we used Fluid Fluid Film. That would last about one month and we would reapply. Now we are using a product made by Rohmar, we touch it up twice a year, that takes about 15 minutes.
Awesome job! You've done everything that is reasonably possible to do on an older vehicle to preserve the frame. Brush painting the frame everywhere that you can reach with a brush with Rust-o-leum will apply a thicker coat of paint and then follow up with the spray cans to reach anywhere that the brush couldn't and it might save a few bucks on paint. Been hearing great things about Surface Shield, but although we have a number of products by PB Blaster available in Canada, I haven't been able to find the Surface Shield product anywhere.
Ace hardware or home Depot
@@antinazi1959 No. PB Blaster "Penetrant" oil is available at Home Depot, but PB Blaster "Surface Shield" is not available in stores, or online at Home Depot, or at ACE Hardware in Canada.
Well done - always nice to see a 1st gen Tacoma get new life. Also, using the Surface Shield in the gallon format is WAY better than the cans. I went the can route and it was a nightmare - they clog up after about 20 seconds of spraying and the nozzle needs to be taken apart and cleaned out. Always go with the gallon and a sprayer!
Can't believe they still haven't solved the spray can issue after all these years. Pathetic effort by the company.
You said it was acid . You were shocked it took off paint and clearcoat...Ummm..
I just seen the part and said this word for word 💀
Excellent job. Probably could've gone straight to Surface Shield after cleaning the rust and power washing. Paint will flake eventually - regular sprays of surface shield or Fluid Film won't. Helluva job 👍
True dat 🤙🏻
Manual descaling. Then Corroseal. Goes on like milk or wood glue, turns black, takes 24 hours. ($100.00 per gallon) then Rust Oleum primer, then Rust Oleum High Gloss enamel. Same effect. I did use White Rust Oleum enamel around the inside of the frame to track any further rusting. Ranger frames have one side open. Yep. Corroseal. Works Great. Thank you for this.
Dude, you are the man... thank you for this video. Gotta do this on my 06 F150, has about the same amount of rust that your vehicle HAD. lol
Awesome job!!!
Lots of work but very gratifying.
No shop will ever do that for you.
So true! Something I really don’t want to have to do again. Just think, if everyone started undercoating their vehicle at new we’d all be in a better spot.
Wow! just wow!!!
You have a lot of patience my friend. Very, VERY impressive man.
I have a 2012 "dead-mint" Ram 1500 Sport. I just had it completely sprayed with "corrosion-free". After doing the entire undercarriage, they also sprayed inside the frame, rockers, door panels, inside tailgate etc ... From what I can gather, "krown" was rated #1 (forever) until just a few years ago. I hear they are now rated #2 with "corrosion-free" being the top dog, but now I'm wondering if I should've taken the time to do the same amazing job that you did to your truck BEFORE I got undercoated. Man that's impressive bud. Awesome job!
What are the odds of you posting a "1 year later" vid?
You have over 175,000 views so I'm sure that 1,000's would love to see it. I know I would!
If yours was dead-mint I’m assuming your frame was super good! I wouldn’t worry about doing everything I did, just use your preference best undercoating spray and call it good! I would update but I ended up selling it.. A guy flew in from Montana , 20 ours away from me and bought it. On the search now for my tundra.. I’m not loaded so my price range is like 15K. I’ve been looking for weeks and they’re all rusty!! If more people would just spray their frames from the get go, we would all be able to save some money. I’ll probably end up flying to Texas to get one. Then be spraying the frame as soon as I get back to Iowa lol.
Corrosion Free 3000? Started spraying rusty door bottoms in 2017 it stopped the rust from progressing all the way until I sold it in 2023. Definitely my favorite for low splash areas.
Wow, what can I say? I am going to do the exact same thing on my 2003 Silverado 2500 HD, I started a snow plowing business. I found that the older cat eye Silverado’s 6.0 work better than the new trucks, they are simple to fix. In a bind there’s nothing fancy.
Problem is the only thing that goes wrong in the winter is the salt either rots , transmission line, fuel line, brake line, power steering line etc.
I ordered every single line on the whole vehicle factory pre bent stainless steel , actually not much more expensive than the regular steel. You did an amazing job, and I appreciate the video. We all know a Toyota will run forever. The only thing standing in its way is a rusty frame, way to protect your investment
I worked in a body shop for years. If you were close to Buffalo New York, I can paint the door and the tailgate.😂 the good thing is it’s black, so you do not have to overlap the adjacent panel
Excellent job and great tutorial! Thanks!
you have to apply rust proofing before the rust starts. once the rust starts, it’s too late.
I bought a ram big horn 1500 hemi in 2017. I took it home, and I rushed proofed it before it ever saw rain or salt in October here in Pennsylvania. I have the videos of the annual inspections of my chassis and the rest of my truck on RUclips. I have the yearly inspection of my room, since I rush, proved it when it was only five days old with fluid film on RUclips before winter and after winter over the past seven years. So I have quite a few videos on RUclips inspecting under my truck here in Western, Pennsylvania, where they salt the roads for four months of the year every winter…
this just reminded me to do my 2024 inspection video for RUclips on my channel.
I did my truck in my gravel driveway, I bought the special spray gun and a gallon of fluid film on eBay for around $75. I removed the wheels, I remove the plastic fender inner liners, I removed the 16 or 18 rubber plugs along the rocker panels, I remove the headlight and tail light assemblies so that I could get all the way in everywhere on the truck, every hole, one of my videos shows how fluid film travels. You just have to be close like with Handgrenades.
I sprayed under the bed of my truck when I first brought it home in 2017 with the spraygun taking my time. I noticed for years later that that fluid film traveled up into the bed of my truck through a seam. I didn’t know was there because my bed on my ram has a factory black spray on coating. That fluid film found a way to get through that. That stuff travels up hill..
I also bought the 3 foot long attachment for the spray cans that you can buy for $10 or $11 at Lowe’s and Home Depot. This attachment goes on top of the spray can when you remove the nozzle, and replace it with the special nozzle that has a long plastic tube with a brass jet on the end. The brass jet makes the stream come out 360° to the side, it doesn’t make it come out straight and it comes out very fast, so when you stick that up your door post all the way to the roof through one of the holes, you wanna pull that thing out while pulling the trigger in about two or three seconds, because you can completely empty. That spray can probably in about 20 seconds if you just hold the trigger with that special nozzle that I bought on eBay for $14..
The only thing under my truck that is rusty are the drivers and the drive shaft. The drivers spin, the front wheel, drive shafts, and the drive shaft to the rear axle is rusty. Nothing sticks to them because they spin and centrifugal force removes anything you spray on them. I imagine some special paint like POR15 would stick, but I tried that POR15 on my. GMC pick up after it started resting to try to save it, and I got some of that stuff on my skin, even though it says all over the label of that POR15 can not to get that on your skin. I had to go to two different skin doctors after I got that on my wrist where my gloves stopped in my long sleeve shirt had a gap.
on my channel I also have a video of a horrifically rusted ram pick up. This truck is actually dangerous that I took video of and put on my channel, there was no area of the truck that was not sharply dangerously rusted with lots of metal missing. We have annual state inspections here in Pennsylvania, I cannot believe that thing was roadworthy and would pass Pennsylvania safety inspection. But I have video of what happens to ram pick up trucks if you do not rust proof them where they throw salt..
in 2023, I bought a guitar from a guy on craigslist, and when I got to his house he had the same truck I have. A 2017 ram bighorn hemi. I asked him how he liked it. He said he loves it, but his mechanic buddy, that does his inspections and oil changes told him to get rid of it because, the rust is gonna start coming through everywhere on the truck. The mechanic told him that he would replace the quarter panels for $3000 if he wanted to keep the truck for a while, but that’s not gonna stop the rush that has already started on the rocker panels the doors, the tailgate the fenders and even the hood..
his truck only had 52,000 miles on it, and he hast to get rid of it just because of the rust..
Anyway, if anyone wants to see what it looks like under my ram pick up year after year of inspections, that I have videos on my RUclips channel, take a look
"you have to apply rust proofing before the rust starts. once the rust starts, it’s too late."
Exactly this!
All these videos where they try and remove rust and paint it with black undercoating is to make it look pretty for a little while. The rust still continues to form underneath.
The time to rust protect the underside of a vehicle is when it's brand new without any rust having formed.
Lanolin based undercoating products like Fluid Film and Wool Wax can be sprayed directly on rust, and if reapplied every couple of years will stop the rust cold.
No need to do the de-rusting treatment which may cause more problems than it solves.
Fluid film sucks. Surface shield is definitely better
I use Fluid Film and love it.
@@stevenh4970 LOL... Otay....
@@stevenh4970
I will admit that from tests I have seen, that Surface Shield leaves a durable film even after the lanolin has worn off.
That said, my 2018 model Chicago based car which has been Fluid Filmed three times, looks almost like a new car underneath.
So, I wouldn't say that it sucks exactly.
But he did say it tho.@fubartotale3389
Wow, what a process! Great job on staying meticulous. Don’t think you”ll ever see rust on that baby!
Thanks! Yea thorough jobs seem to last the longest. I’ve learned taking my time saves me time lol.
Having owned a beautiful but rusty 2001 Tacoma, this is the most satisfying video ever!
Wouldn't that rust cutter eat any rubber hoses, seals or rubber knuckles?
Thank you very much for your video. I am up in Alaska, and I intend to follow a very similar route. My process is looking like this:
1. Wash/degrease
2. Knock off the chunks of rust/grind
3. Wash and break clean
4. Rust kutter
5. Rinse
6. Rust kutter
7. Rinse
8. Rustoleum clean metal primer (I spoke with Rustoleum and they said if you are converting before hand and you will have mostly converted/bare metal then you should use this primer as it will still handle some rust if you missed any, and it will give the enamel better adhesion)
9. Rustoleum professional protective enamel
10. Herculiner roll-on bedliner (specifically excels at deflecting rock-chips in cold climates per project farm)
11. Following, In the frame rails and behind pinch welds/seams I intend to use rust kutter at step 4 and then follow that up with fluid film after step 11 (a product i wouldn't use anywhere else because it grosses me out)
Thanks again for making this very thorough video.
Nice!!
Just a note, that rust kutter is wicked. Definitely wear a long sleeve shirt, goggles and mask. I accidently had a bunch that dripped on my arm and face when I was under my vehicle after applying it, and it burned my skin like there was no tomorrow.
Oh my dude I hope your ok
@@JRESHOW Oh ya. I thankfully was wearing eye protection, just not a long sleeve shirt. It burned right through two layers of skin on my arm, and one layer on my face. But no big deal, far from the heart.
The rust kutter destroys that rust though, so worth it if you are in Canada.
Nice! Going to touch up my box truck with this process! The results look clean
This stuff and fluid film are literally the exact same. Many videos compared the two on a two year basis and both help up very well.
Nice work! The only recommendation I have is to do your deep cleaning/degreasing _before_ removing the rust. This way you don't end up spreading around the contaminants and driving them into the metal. Then you can do another lite degreasing afterwards.
excellent demonstration
As a bonus to the wicking part, any fasteners will be easier to remove and won't be rust welded in place.
Nice work. Inspiring me to get to work!
Great tip. Great, no B.S. presentation. Thanks for sharing & thanks for adding the links.
Great video. I've been looking into how I am going to remove rust and paint the underside of my truck, and I think when I do, I'll do it like this. Thanks man!
Awesome video! Very detailed. Its a long process and I get bored quick lol I did my nissan frontier today but did it quick. Knocked out whatever rust was loose, air blew it, then applied loctite naval jelly. Worked decent but its harder to apply then it wouldve been with your rust kutter by spraying it. Finally i power washed it. Next weekend i will apply the fluid film. I wont be painting or undercoating. Too much work and I heard undercoating isnt as good as one would think.
This is pretty much what i did to my old subaru. Wire brushed the under carriage for hours, sprayed it with over a quart of rust dissolver, pressure washed it when it had done its work, let it dry, then soak the entire under carriage with half a gallon of linseed oil using a spray gun (including inside the beams and structural members)
It is an awesome feeling! Now to see how it looks in a few years.
Linseed oil needs to be reapplied every year or two, but now that the worst part is done, its more a quick once over (unless some catastrophic areas reveal themselves)
I used Corroseal and then once it dried, I covered it all with Fluid Film. It was a Honda Element. And if you know Elements, you know you gotta protect those rear suspension components
Nice work. Let me know when to stop by to get my vehicle done.
"put down a tarp" then continues to do everything over pavers 😂😂😂 nice video man. I have an f150 and if I do a rust delete I'll be sure to follow this process
Great job! It’s well worth it to do it correctly.
Great work. Without a Car Lift, it would be very difficult for me.
Nice video. The gas tank on my car recently fell on the ground after filling it up at a gas station. Someone was calling me on my cell phone and I pulled into a space while in the gasoline station. While I was parked and attending to my phone I heard a noise. I thought someone had thrown something at my car or may be a tire hit my car from the highway. I saw nothing. So I got back in the car. I did not jump on the highway right away which was next to the gasoline station. After a while I started up the car and someone got behind my car while I had it in reverse. I did not in a million years think that I would be dragging my gas tank. It really freaked me out. I called me insurance and a tow truck came and put those pulling straps to hold it. They could not move it because it was full of gasoline. So they had to use a small flat jack to lift it up. The straps held it in place. I am thinking about putting a long metal flat bar attached to the chassis with Chrome screws to prevent the tank from falling again. The tank is sitting upright in a vertical position in front of the trunk. Death was following me, but God was on my side I guess. For those who have have not had this happened to them CHECK underneath that the gas tank is secure from those metal straps as well as the fuel lines and brake lines, especially if your car is old and has rust. Do not ignore the rust. We are used to just checking under the hood, but if you are living in the north you are at risk because of the rust. I hope I have saved lives with this information. Get undercoating and clean that rust before it spreads like a cancer. It can be very very dangerous and serious, especially if you have family riding in your car. This is serious stuff. Thank you for sharing your video with us.
💯💯💯 I won’t buy or even go look at a car/truck without first seeing pics of the underbody. Most people don’t look and could care less. But it’s a big deal.
I’m afraid I wouldn’t get past step one as the rust might be the only thing holding my ole jeep together 🤣
😂
Lmfao me too 😂lol
What does it look like now? Guessing that film you sprayed on captured a good amount of dirt n whatnot
Great job! will this Surface Shield stay "wet" and collect dirt and dust?
It will stay wet looking for a bit and will collect a extra protective layer of dirt and dust, then it doesn’t look so wet. It looks like a flat black. But when you take your finger nail to it it’s got a nice layer of build up to protect the frame. Back in the day they used to use oil and hit a gravel road to accomplish a similar protection.
I just did the front and rear diff fluid the other day and you can see what it looks like a year later.. ruclips.net/video/AWBsTC4C5Oc/видео.html
Thanks a heap for posting this video. I have a Hilux that I'm restoring and I was trying to figure out how I was going to get the kill rust into the inside of the chassis frame. Cheers 👍👍👍
I just grinded and put phosphoric acid prior to undercoating on ONE cross member of my pickup's frame and it took me closer to three hours and I was covered with dust after that. I can't even comprehend how someone could do the entire frame at once. Thank god the previous owner had it undercoated before me so it's almost rust free from the front to the rear of the cabin and only the parts sandblasted by the rear tires are rusting
I love watching videos of single guys with all the time in the world.
😂😂
I’m married bro.
Good video. How is it holding up.
Update? How is it holding up? Great video!
Thank you so much for sharing this. By the way excellent work question would you still spray nuts and bolts, if you do that wouldn’t cause problems loosening, or tightening bolts and nuts?
Dang were legit impressed! That rust kutter seems intense 😂 but dang it looks so good
Thanks guys! The kutter definitely works wonders! Probably not much use for it in your neck of the woods 🤣
Müthiş bir iş çıkartmışsın tebrik ederim.👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Bende Hilux Vigoma yapmayı düşünüyorum💪🏽
Man straight up created a Rust-Belt Kryptonite
I hope you make an update video in the future, on how it’s holding up.
This is truly the best way to prolong the life of a vehicle.
How has this held up? We need an update.
Looks awesome, I love how you sprayed the rust neutralizer inside of the frame. How is the rust oleum holding up a year later?
Had to scrap my Nissan hard odyssey and saw lots of Toyota trucks with the frame!
how well has it held up over the year
your giving me some motivation! looks great good work
I use corraseal with a pump sprayer...do it every fall before plow season...it works good depending on how thick and the temperature outside when I do it...alot of spots I don't have to do it again but I do anyways...it turns a dark black when it's done it's thing
Dam, great job. After all my experience and testing. he did it exactly the best way possible next to dry ice blasting and cosmoline which is too costly for a non collector car. Great work, wonder if they havea black surface shield to skip the painting step or tint with graphite powder.
Thats a hell of a job
A bumblebee that goes on the attachment that goes on the pressure washer hose want to work really good
any follow up video? I think you did good job and it will last whole season!
Two questions:
-How did you clean out the Rust Kutter from the spray gun/nozzle/reservoir before switching to the Surface Shield?
-What was your compressor set-up with the needle scaler (SCFM, size of air tank, etc.)? I've heard needle scalers require large compressors/reservoirs.
Curious about the CFM as well. Most affordable ones are only rated for about 2 or 3 CFM which apparently isn't all that much. If you want 10 or more the compressors run $6k to $12k.
How's it holding up?
Salt corrosion is the gift that keeps on giving. Even after cleaning and treatment it can keep corroding.
Great job. Is there a follow-up on this technique?
I ended up selling the truck but have a test running now on a new 2023 tundra… I’ve also got some steel that’s going through some test but nothing really to show yet. It held up great for the first year and winter before selling. Guy flew from 20 hours away to buy it. It’s good stuff. Just a simple wire brush and spraying the undercoat will suffice
@@JRESHOW Well, that sounded like good news for you. Thanks for getting back to me, take care.
Looks great. How is it holding up?
It held up great! ended up selling the truck to a guy 20 hours away! On to a tundra :)
Does that final coat you applied ever dry
The surface shield? It hasn’t yet…
I've done it with tacky bar and chain oil. It doesn't "dry" completely, but it eventually gets the same consistency as the gunk on a bicycle/motorcycle chain as it dries. Almost like a tacky grease.
Don't rub up against it, but it won't drip on you or your driveway after about a week.
This is my kind of video
So it's ok to just spray Rust Shield over Rust reformer ?
Can we get an update on how the proceds has held up ?
phosphoric acid (what the rust kutter is) will turn the iron oxide into iron phosphate so yea it can be directly painted, maybe good to just brush it a bit to get dusty bits off. Probably better to leave it on actually vs cleaning it with water though
How many hours work do you figure you have there? Nice job!
Too many lol. I bought a tundra and am just going to wire burst the rust, spray the rust cutter, and spray the undercoating. Gonna skip the primer and paint. The undercoat does good alone. I’ve tested it on metal in my back yard for the last year and it had 3 feet of snow on it and I literally threw a bucket of salt to melt it all and it was still good. Just keep up with undercoat if you don’t want to paint, it takes a lot of time.
@@JRESHOW Thanks for the reply and the video. Good luck with the Tundra.
Amazing job!
Thank you! 😁
what about the rust on the fuel tank?
I wonder if dry ice cleaning might have been easier and more effective? don't know just wondering
Got to Love your vehicle 😍
Bless your energy and stamina...Can you come to philly and do my Silverado?...:)... I'd rather climb a ladder than crawl around under my truck...:)...It's not bad if you have a lift that you can walk under...I can't believe how many times you power washed it...
It's a little more expensive but I use engine/ header high temp paint. No primer needed.
Also, for rust I spray it with Thermacore or Evaporust.
Love your edit !
How much did this whole process cost? How much time would this last if I'm driving 95% of the time on paved roads? (I'm in QC Canada as reference)
Is it bad to leave the rust cutter sitting inside the frame? Or should you rinse it out? I’ve heard different opinions on rinsing/wiping it off and leaving it on under the paint.
I admire your tenacity. Everything you did won't prevent rust from forming, undercoating needs to be done with oil, specifically, Husqvarna bar and chain oil, if you heat it up you can spray it into every crack and crevice, it's the only thing that works in the rust belt.
Wrong. What he used will work well. It was an oil.
@denverwood5290 nope, oil is superior to any commercial undercoating, I live in the rust belt, and everyone uses bar and chain oil.
works just as gd with out the rust cutter.. The Rust Reformer does the same chemical reaction as the Rust Kutter.
How did hold up?
Nice job 👍🏻
Hey You did a great job. I know as you think about how and what you did what if anything you would change ?
The descaling was good idea along with the rust killer converter and spray gun. Excellent video
Yes, I would buy a truck from Texas or Florida 🤣🤣
Would be great to see if it lasts.
Will this damage other components in the suspension if you accidentally spray it on them?
Not at all.
Nice work!
Update video on frame would be great
I sold the truck to a guy who flew in from Washington…
Is this product safe is it gets on the brake hoses or wires???
From my understanding and experience, yes. I’ve even asked the company. Just keep it off the rotors and brakes themself..
What kind of air compressor setup is that? I’m looking to get an air gun setup for undercoating and need some advice.
Can you spray with the undercoat gun using a pancake air compressor? If i don’t have access to a large 20 gallon or something similar?
Yea sir! That’s what I use now.
@@JRESHOW ok, like a small 6 gallon?
amazing job, how long do you think this whole process took you from start to finish?
10 days - 14 days I think, a lot of it was dry time…
What are your thoughts on just using surface shield on the bare frame and foregoing paint?
That would work too as long as you keep up with it from year to year, just checking to make sure you still got a coating on there. I like to spray this stuff and hit a gravel road to create another barrier. This stuff held up great after a year, and I didn’t have to but I put another coat on and drove more gravel roads. I’ve got a nice build up now that I can prolly go a few years no worries. So in short, yea, just spray the surface shield on the bare metal.
Did you do underneath the engine?
I did, yes.
@@JRESHOW oh great - I haven't done mine yet. Did you need to go through the engine bay at all to clean things up? Or is everything accessible from below?