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Ford Quick Tips #86: How to Fix Stuck Power Running Boards for Good!
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2024
- In this video we show you how to fix the most common cause for sticking power running boards on Ford vehicles.
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
These are the Lubricants I Recommend:
Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2Z8mFPm
WD-40-
amzn.to/31ge0gb
Fluid Film-
amzn.to/2YtfFxc
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I'd had to revisit my running boards a few times, and was thinking of trying a motorcycle chain lube. No idea how well it will work, but then again I've never had an opportunity to use that fluid film brand either.
@@therealpimpskillet you can try the chain lube, honestly I think that the fluid film is better suited for the hinges on these runningboards, it flows better and stays put once it sets up. I've been using it for the undersides of my F150 to keep the rust in check on the sheetmetal, suspension parts and the inside and outside of the box frame. There are dozens of places on the frame alone that trap water, dirt, salt, and silt. This gets into those spots and stops the advance of corrosion. Funny story, I took the truck to a local shop for tire balance, and alignment check. The mechanic there is a friend of mine, but I watched amusedly as he went thru a complete inspection of the truck underneath. I gave him about 5 minutes of looking for an oil leak that didn't even exist, I had liberally coated everything with the fluid film. We both had a laugh about it!
@@markk3652 I've had pretty good luck using a silicone spray, but I feel like it catches too much road debris and eventually clogs up. Mine are almost to a point where I want to pull the entire thing apart, clean the shafts and start over again. They were slow when I bought the truck, and they only get "pretty good" when I clean them up like this once or twice a year.
Hey fordtechmakuloco I'm in need of ur expertise. I have a 2002 f250 crew cab short bed 4x4. I bought the truck lifted. It has a 3.5 inch lift I think, with 35 in tires. From a dead stop when i accelerate it feels like my rear axle is shuddering for a sec or two then it goes away.
If I accelerate hard u can feel it even more. Once I get to about 10 mph or so it goes away. I don't has this issue while already moving no matter how fast or slow I'm going. Only happens from a dead stop and maybe sometime when I'm turning.
Now when I'm towing a Heavy load omg does the vibration get super worse. Especially when turning. It feels like driving on the notches on the side of the road to warn u ur going off the road. Or like the dirt roads with the washboard things in the road. But the feeling is all in the real.
I replaced my ujoint and center support bearing. I had one ujoint dry as a bone the other two were kinda dry but not as bad, and the center support bearing was good but the rubber bushing was all tor up. My ujoint driveshaft angles look even. Oh and to refresh ur memory it's a two piece drive shaft.
I don't think a 3.5 inch lift would cause my ujoint angles to be off but who knows. I've googled around and people say it could be 2 different things. Bad ujoint or I'm getting axle wrap. I do have lift blocks in the rear but nothing crazy. Pls pls pls give me some input on what it could be.
I have 2010 ford raptor with p0012, p0022, p0316, p0340, p0341, p0345, p0346. Can you help me please. When I open timing cover I saw that left side lower guide and bolts where broken. I'm confused about timing positions. Can I set crankshaft to timing position and hold both camshafts with pliers not to move to put everything together? If not can you give me some pictures for camshafts positions ? Thanks
So happy I found this video. Was looking at an estimated $2000 repair bill that literally cost me $23 and 45 minutes of my time. The running boards are working perfectly now. Followed your instructions and used the same lubes and it worked great.
"No Mr. dealership repair guy, the motors aren't shot....."
Makes us wonder how many people were charged 2k plus, and this is all they did at the dealership 😆
Boy..i remember the old days when there would be grease fittings or some clever way to lubricate such points. Routine maintenance.
I was just thinking about something. what if you just drill 8 holes on each side of the brakets where the edge of the pins are. Then you take a tap and insert grease fittings
It took me 3 hours but wow it works. Ford making these sleeved bushings instead of with sealed bearings is a joke. I love this channel. I've fixed so many problems on my 2010 Expedition thanks to you!
Worked like a charm, with a little patience. Had the right side replaced just before the warranty expired (like $1200 repair), then the driver side started going out and hasn't really worked for a year. Bought a new motor with hinge and was looking for a video on how to replace it when I found this video. Figured nothing to lose.... it took a couple of days of soaking and manually working the lift while shutting the door, but now it seems good as new. Will be sending back the $250 replacement motor.
Have a 2019 expedition and this is the first time I did it. It took at least an hour fiddling with the rust penetrated. I was losing hope and finally it broke free. All in all 1.5 hours. Thanks so much for sharing!!! It was about $30 worth of product (with some leftover). Saves me a trip to the dealership, where I would lose my ride for the day. I did have to have my husband help pull up when the door closed. Thanks again!!
The 14 people who gave this a thumbs down paid ford 2k
Now it’s 28 Ford made 56k easy!
Probably right
😂
There he is...the man of the hour....our Ford tec...thx Brian...
Just used this method to fix the driver's side running board on my 2014 F150 Platinum. It's critical that you spend the time opening and closing the door to work the penetrants and lubrications in. I thought it wasn't going to work at first and then I just kept opening and closing the door - even had to forcefully push the board closed to get it to stay. Eventually, it did start running smoothly and stowing correctly. The Fluid Film really was the icing on the cake. Works good as new now. Great video. Cheap fix.
Fluid Film FTW Love this stuff.
Absolutely! Was turned on to this stuff a couple of years ago.
@@djosbun I just got a can a few weeks ago, used it as sort of an undercoat? just for the rockers and even did the door hinges a bit to see how that would do for them. It has a...different smell? I'm used to WD-40 and this has a fruity or something smell to it. Not a bad smell just different lol, seems very sticky looks like its a good lube.
People who know use Fluid Film.
Amen! Great stuff! :)
I have the 2016 gmc sierra denali 1500. I went through these steps and although they didn't start working immediately I kept at it. Within a month my running boards are working perfectly again. I have the stock gmc power running boards on my truck. Thank you for the video, saved me $$$
Thanks a lot for this video! My drivers side was stuck in the down position. I sprayed it with a silicone lubricant because that was all I had and by the time I made it to the auto store to get the penetrating oil it was working. I came home and treated both sides the way you did and I will continue treating them after every oil change.
Thanks so much!!! This worked just as you said. I had to let it soak in for a day or two (my truck is a 2010 that we bought in 2009 and we have never treated this before so it had years of neglect) but every day it moved a little more. Then finally one morning when I came out it was working perfectly. Cost me about $25.00 bucks thanks again!!!
@fordtechmakuloco, just wanted to tell you that YOU ARE THE MAN! My passenger side running board stuck while washing my truck, I panicked at first, but watched your video and followed every step….2nd blast of penetrating oil, started up truck and BAM! Running board retracted even better than before! And it was stuck stuck! Like I could not even help the running board retract before the steps.
Bought a 2012 suburban a few years ago and was told the running boards were bad and needed replaced. Came across this video and after I restored power to the boards, I did these steps exactly and now they work like a charm. Great video.
You saved me!!!! Was about to take my 2017 expedition el platinum to the dealer and get both sides replaced! Your the best dude.
Thank you!!! Ford wanted to keep my expedition for 6 DAYS with no rental and charge me 180 to do a diagnostic! followed these steps and now it works prefect!
I'm going to try this. Been dealing with this issue for a year. You are a savior! Thanks so much for uploading this video to help others.
I tried this and it the first time ever that my running boards have worked ALL winter! Thank you for the tip!
I can't say it better than everyone else has already said. I bought the products you recommended, followed your instructions and they work perfectly. Thank you
Finally, I've been waiting for this video. I will be doing this to my running boards. Thank you.
My running boards had slowed down so much over time that when I open up my truck door I would find something else to do while waiting for the running board to come down. I stumbled upon your video and gave your remedy a shot. What a difference. Now they act the same as they did when the truck was brand new. It is so much better. I had seen another video that just said to replace the running boards. He had the same exact problem as I did and he brought it into the shop and got the brackets replaced for 2k. Insane! Cost me $30.....
😂😂😂
Awesome video!! I was told by multiple dealerships, Firestone’s etc that it would be $2500+ to fix the motors so I held off. Just did this, had to really apply pressure to get the boards going up but eventually got them going and now they are as good as new!
Great tip and easy to do once a year to ensure they continue to work correctly. I’m sure this would work for people that have purchased the Amp steps as well. Thanks for the video.
I had just bought a new truck and the power running board on the driver side wasn’t working but after I tried this they worked
this method worked perfectly. dealer wanted $2000 to replace the driver's side motor and hinge mechanism. i spent $35 for the 3 cans and it now works perfectly. thanks for the video.
Great advice! These power running boards are know to be problematic without being lubricated.
I have been setting the power running boards to OUT when i go to the carwash and give them a good spray down and follow up with a good soak of fluid film. I was able to restore the boards on my last truck and on the current, im 102,000km and no issues. 👍
Just did this today and it fixed the problem! I been fighting it for a while now.
Thank god this actually worked
I had this problem with my 2010 Explorer and the motor on the driver's side quit. I disassembled that side completely, off the vehicle and lubed up the hinge points until they could move freely (or as free as I could get them). Installed a new motor (Amazon), and reinstalled. Worked fine until the passenger side got slow. I didn't wait for the motor to fail this time so I didn't need to replace it but the same procedure worked again. In the winter of '21, '22, the drivers side got slow again and so I took the whole thing off . I tied lubing again with mixed results and left it off until this spring ('23). This time I decided to take the hinge brackets completely apart. Those shiny pins can be driven out (use a press, not a hammer) and you will fined that the pins secure in the center pieces and rotate at the ends. However inside those hole at the ends are doubled up copper mesh bushings. In mine, the inner of the two on all positions were very worn. I'm thinking the point of these was to retain lubricant but that was gone. take those out and you will have clearance and lube them up periodically once reinstalled
Purchased a 2007 Explorer with the power running boards stuck in the up position for years. Decided to see if I could get them working. Your video was a huge help. Thank you.
First thing I found was both electric motors were unplugged. Cleaned the contacts and plugged them in. After plugged in... when I opened or closed the driver or passenger door I heard a brief clicking noise from each electric motor but there was no movement of the running boards. I soaked hinge points the best I could with PB Blaster. I then pried downward on the boards with a prybar until I got them far enough down where I could stand on them. Then I'd open the door while standing on the board. Then I'd close the door and pry upward on the running board with a 2x4, leveraging off the driveway, to help them back into the closed position. Repeated this over and over for about two hours. Each time I got more travel I would apply additional penetrating oil and use a small pick around the hinges to scrape away corrosion and debris. Three hours later both running boards working. Total cost = $9.00 Thank you
I was using silicone spray yearly on my ‘11 F150 platinum. Never thought of the fluid film. Thanks for the tip!
Perfect Perfect Perfect.....I recently bought a used F150 and the driver side board would not fold away....but I could hear the motor trying to work....I was told that it hadn't worked in 6 years......so I followed your steps and a few short moments later both sides are working perfectly !!! I'd buy you a beer if I knew how to find you . Thank you so much for posting this video and making it so easy to follow. Will add this to my normal maintenance schedule !!
Be sure to clean the step pads on the running boards afterwards because they will be slippery from all the oil dripped on them. Customers always complain about that and the stains.
Great tip 😁. There are so many maintenance points on a car other than just engine oil and other fluids. Lubricating moving parts, paint protection, engine cleaning, heat exchangers cleaning (condenser, radiator, and other coolers), cabin filter and interior cleaning and protecting, and even undercarriage cleaning would help a lot to make a car last a good 15 years without major issues.
True statement! Most become overwhelmed by simple routine stuff that cars require. Factor in all the preventative measures that should be done, there are few that actually do it. It's easier to just grouse about how crappy the car/manufacturers are, and get a new one. I can't relate to that mentality. I'd rather keep my cars and equipment maintained and cared for than spend what it costs to replace it.
@@markk3652 that is the reason why many people say most american cars are shit but also many other people say those have been great cars to them. Maybe that second group of people take more care of their car and go the extra mile.
Thank you so much for this video! I was going to have the dealer look at them. Worked like a charm. I live in vt where the road salt is ridiculous.
Fluid film is great. I spray the undercarriage of my F-250 every fall to protect it from the road salt. Great video! Thanks for sharing.
How do you buy the stuff? Gets expensive doesn't it? i guess if it works well then who cares. It's like 15 CAD per can around me so it's on the pricey side.
@ I live in Canada too. I buy it by the gallon. You can find gallons at NAPA, Princess Auto, and some Canadian Tire stores. 100$ is the going cost. I also invested in the fluid film spray gun.....it's of excellent quality, worth the money.
@@TheBeatenPaths Id choose woolwax over fluid film. Very similar of a product, except woolwax is a little thicker so it stays in place a lot better. Fluidfilm washes off much quicker/easier than woolwax. I undercoated my truck last fall, and all of the woolwax is still there perfectly intact just like the day i sprayed it on, coming up on 10 months.
Thanks so much for this! 2 trips to the dealership didn’t solve it. I was ready to drop a few thousand for new motors and bushings. Followed your instructions and it works great. Appreciate it!
I know I'm not keeping up with the maintenance when various moving parts of my F150 no longer work. Only then do I get around to the cleaning/lubricating... first it was the box side steps, then the tailgate step release, now it's one of the power running boards not staying extended. Good to see videos like this offer a simple fix.
I have been using the WD40 Lithium Grease for about a yr or so and so far so good.
I use the same on the power extended steps on the motorhome.
Same here. Works great. I’ll be doing this every spring and fall from now on.
Thank you for this video!! I figured my motor was toast. I watched this video and had both sides working again in 10 min.
Was thinking the same thing.. I'm gonna try this on mine it's just my driver side that's stuck down makes the noise but doesn't want to move
I recently bought a 2007 Lincoln Navigator L and the power running boards were operating intermittently. A mechanic told me I would probably have to replace the motor assembly but I felt the motor was not the problem because I could hear it trying to engage. Thanks to this video and great directions, I was able to get them working consistently. I used a product called Sea Foam Deep Creep Multi-Purpose Penetrating Lubricant and Cleaner. I plan to keep a can on hand...just in case.
good job
Outstanding!
I don't own an Explorer, I don't have a vehicle with running boards, I don't live in the rust belt. I do like watching mechanical things that don't work to start working as intended!
I bought my truck with the steps stuck down. This video helped me get them working in about 20 minutes.
Constant issue here in Michigan. Thanks for the help. I typically have to do this at least once a month...
I just purchased a used high mileage expedition and your videos are invaluable. I really appreciate your attention to detail.
Hey congrats on ur purchase. I bought a 2008 limited expy about a year ago with 195k (!) Miles. For me I didn't care because they're so hard to find perfect one and I can fix most things that go wrong. I'm at 215k miles now and it's still running great aside from an alternator couple spark plugs and coils and two wheel bearings. All which I did myself. I love my truck and don't think I'll ever get rid of it lol. These beasts can forever if u don't mind getting ur hands a bit dirty. I'm hoping to hit 300k but I think I'll have to replace tranny before then. Either way u can find one for under 1 thousand and replacing it isn't too hard. One of the most overly feared jobs is a tranny, pretty simple job actually.
For vehicles in the salt belt the hood hinge pins, tail gate hinges, lock mechanisms and don't forget door hinges and locking mechanisms. I used to put WD40 in key lock. That was before the electronics at the lock. I have used WD40 on a door lock that would not turn, key was good, for an 06 Kia Sorento. The locked worked, no problem with the electrical.
Love your channel. Well described and informative. I’m a new Ford F150 owner so I need to get my DIY game up. Thanks for your channel. A new subscriber 👍
Never used Mopar but Kroil is my go to #1 rust penetrant I’ve ever used
That stuff fixed my steering shaft U joint. I had no return to center. Every oil change I spray it down, no problems for years.
Do this every oil change on my Yukon and they have been working great to my surprise.
Absolutely invaluable info here. Thanks for posting.
The Midwest is hard on vehicle, doesn’t help that Ford makes some parts that aren’t quality, had to replace my oil pan cover, because it’s made of some soft material, that after all the snow in Minnesota, would get trapped on top of it causing it to soften like a cardboard eventually causing it to rip from the mounts, therefore causing it to drag on the ground. Eventually I replaced it with a Ford Rapture oil pan cover. Now my running boards are acting up. I’m going to try this approach. I believe that it will fix my problem. Thanks!
that had to be the best quick fix ever. thank you .
I will try your method. In hope it's not the motor on the driver's side. It only messes up when the weather is "cold". No bad sounds from the motor. Works perfect in the summer.
Thanks for the video! My 2017 Platinum is working like new again. Keep up with the videos!
I can't thank you enough! I Love watching you're videos. This just saved me a lot of money. Weeeew! Keep coming with the content. Ford Baby!!
Thank you so much for this video. Got the running boards running smooth again!!! Cost me about 20 bucks.
Thanks Makuloco! So glad I found this video so that I can now get my power running boards back to functional and know how to care for them in the future.
I have used Boeshield T9 as a protective film for the hinges. It should be reapplied every 6 months or more, before rust/snow and again after snow season.
Like Fluid Film, this leaves a protective layer but more like a wax, like Chevy does to their frames.
I've used Boeshield T9 on exposed parts, and now use Corrosion-X ... just remember that when driving through rain/puddles or other wet weather, at speed, its like a powerwasher underneath and need reapplication.
Thanks a ton! My power running boards on my 2017 F150 were deploying about 50% and then retracting, it was super annoying. Sprayed the crap out of the hinge points with a penetrator, and some WD-40 and that seems to have fixed my issue.
My power boards don’t always work, but when they do they’ll break your shin!
$3400...we just got a quote. The motors are about $100 each...but they won't replace just the motor even if it is bad. Dealerships wonder why they have a bad name? This is why. When I asked about cleaning and lubricating the hinges they said "That doesn't work, the entire unit is shot, there is no replacing just the motor or module"...I called three local shops by me..SAME EXACT ANSWER. Tell you, I live in a lousy place for honest, hard working, quality service. Thanks for sharing!!!
I have been doing a couple drops of 3 in 1 oil every few months since my truck was new. also spray with fluid film multiple times.
I saw one of these type of running boards behind the car wash where there is a couple of curbs on a up hill angle with grass between it. The driver must have tried to go over the curbs and grass and scraped the automatic door step of. It was off of the truck and bent and damaged with the hinges still on it. The person drove and left it.
Fluid Film is Great!
Wool Wax is a bit thicker and you can get in BLACK. There is a place for both.
Money in the bank! Thanks!!!
Thank you, great tip for fixing stuck running boards. Can you also do a video that covers the alignment of the running board? One of mine retracts out of alignment with the rocker and I can’t see how to adjust the alignment. Thanks!
You are awesome for posting this video thank you! 👍
Glad to not see the usual "Ford garbage" posts by many when this kind of video pops. The fact is, ALL power running boards are affected...there is ONE supplier of them for everybody, and they know there is an issue. Instead of "fixing it" by using something like a real bushing, they are investigating a move to stainless steel with a PTFE liner on it. 5 years ago I suggested putting a grease fitting, but that was "are you kidding? That will increase costs for the OPs to drill and tap and add the fitting, as well as another 'needless' maintenance point"....That's the suppliers for you...
Just got new AMP steps put on my Colorado ZR2 and going to Clean and lube often with WD 40 silicone
The key is buy fluid film by the gallon and undercoat the entire bottom the day you buy the vehicle. Whether you live in the salt belt or not. I've been doing this for 10+ years. Undercoat with it twice a year.
thank u so much man. this was my exact question
2018 Jeep disconnected battery same issue....probe that 30 amp fuse found it hot on both sides, watched u r video pulled same 30 amp fuse....as soon as i reinserted boards went up and function fine now...thanks
I was just about to order new power steps… I’ll give this a try
Mopar Rust Penetrant ftw! Best rust penetrant ever!
Mine are stuck closed! I can’t open the doors, what do I do in this case?
Use a brick and climb in.
I actually passed up buying a really nice 11 Navigator for two reasons, the 3v and those boards. If I would have been watching your videos back then I’d be driving that Navigator today. Great videos and information. 👍
What is the 3v
@@TheOldTestament 5.4l 3 valve engine.
I tried all that and they’re still not showing any signs of freeing up. Mine are stuck in the up position so is much harder to hit all the joints. I think I got them all pretty good but all it does is make a small sound and give up. I’m thinking to give it time to soak in. Also wondering if it’s possibly the motor that’s either rusted inside or maybe broken altogether? If Anyone has any suggestions will be appreciated.
Update: I did let it sit about an hour then went back out there had someone else keep opening the door while I pried it with a crowbar. In the beginning it’s gonna seem like you’re getting nowhere but eventually it’ll start to give a little and then a little more. Eventually I decided to lose the crowbar and yank it with my hands. I pulled it from the inside towards me, instead of trying to push it down towards the ground, because when it comes out it’s more of an outward motion then down. It gave pretty quickly once I did that and then I sort of had the situation where he started the video, it wouldn’t go up without my help and came down on its own. So I kept the process up for about an hour, open- close- help and it got better and better. Also noticed it worked better when the engine was running instead of on battery power. Also helped to open the door let it drop a bit then close it so it only has to go up a little bit, keep doing this and letting it drop a bit more every time. Right now it goes up really slowly and sometimes needs help but it’ll get better as time goes on.
Use a 2x4 to help leverage it back up until they work freely
@@jphickory522 funny u replied to this now because the entire winter I had them switched off because it never really worked closing up. And just yesterday I installed a new motor and they're working better than ever. I guess sometimes no matter how much u free up those hinges the motor is just too weak to bring em up. I ordered them on ebay it was 120 for the right side and 150 for the driver side. Worth the money
Thank you. This is a neverending battle with my 2018 Ford F150. I will give this a try. Have a great day! PS. Subbed! 😀
Thanks!
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.... You demonstrated the cure, and the prevention.... :-)
I am glad i found this video. Thank you man, you saved me a lot of bucks.
Good information....thanks for posting
Great Video as always. Missed one point about not getting the lube on the actual boards. Not good to slide off them :(
I also used a cog brush from a bicycle maintenance kit I have. It fits perfectly between the pivot points to clean them out really well. Try it out! :)
U just fixed my 70k limited. Thank u sir
Thanks for info!!!
I don't own a Ford or plan to own one, but I'm a big fan. Brian is easily one of the best mechanics on youtube, superb video quality and wonderful information. Any plans to work on Hondas? I'm in Chicago.
Awesome as always sir , I turn mine off for the winter with ice build up they get jammed up also , not worth the headache
If I set mine to off on my 2018 Expedition, the next time I start the truck it defaults them back to "auto"...:/
@@brianboche5603 that stinks , unplug the motor on each side?
Worked like a charm on my Escalade. Thanks for the tips.
I literally did this today and it worked..thank u so much ❤
In the rust belt of America.
Canada: Hold my beer!. Lol
The same goes for motorhomes with power extend steps.
AWESOME! Fixed my ‘15 Navigator back to new.
Thanks dog, I'll give this a try this afternoon!
The driver side one on my 2015 is completely dead. Used the rust penetrant and still hoping for it to kick in. No sound from the motor whatsoever, so I think it may be electrical. Before it stopped working completely it would randomly deploy and retract as I was driving. Then finally froze halfway up. I finally just pushed them back up, which was a struggle in itself as they would barely budge.
can i just use the wd40? i dont have the rust one
The only thing i don't like about fluid film is it's 10.00 a can..but it's the best thing for protecting hinges and a lot more...Cheers friends 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Totally worth it.
Men...you save me a lot of money...it works on my suburban...thanks