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Modix Big60 v2: Review After a Year! (part 1/3)
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2020
- It has now been over a year since we first fired up the Modix Big60 (v2) 3D printer. Since then it has produced many many printed parts. So, have my thoughts changed?
In this first video of a 3-part series I discuss the modifications I have made to my Big60 to make it work the way I want it to.
Disclaimer: HartSmart Products is a Modix reseller. However, all opinions expressed are my own honest thoughts regarding my experiences with the Big60 v2.
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I love watching your videos so thanks for adding another one! I added a custom-cut mirror on top of the bed and a large reel holder. Best two additions!
My pleasure! Nice work on the modifications!
Thanks, I'm still interested in one of these for a specific application I have in mind. I want to print big things fast with little regard to surface quality so the info about upgrading to the closed-loops steppers was good to hear.
Modix decided to give this model a total complete overhaul. They improved everything in the new model.
Yes, I agree. There are many differences between v2 and v3, and those differences add up to quite a different machine. Plus, there are many more options to change the v3 machines even more if you choose to do so.
Thanks for this - really informative. Looking t0 buying one of these units or the 120 version and stumbled across this video. Looking out for parts 2 & 3. Cheers
Thanks for watching! Parts 2 and 3 will be hitting the channel shortly!
Great video bud I have done some of the upgrades you mentioned.
I also added a blower fan to the other side of print head by doing a copy of the metal bracket and just adding it to the other side.
Also installed a toggle for the filament runout sensor when printing flexibles since unplugging it was a pain ..sensor kept going off.
Added heatsinks to the stepper drivers.
Also using octoprint which is awesome and separately I control the bed heater using wifi on and off switch sells on amazon for cheap.
On top of the extruder near the belt area I added a toothed idler i think the modix came with a spare so installed with a long screw since it has holes already there and it will prevent the belt from bouncing causing ringing.
Its my printer for work and so far Im impressed.
Keep up the good work !
The second blower fan is a great modification. Is that file something you would be willing to share publicly for other Big60 users? Nice mods overall, and I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying your machine as well!
@@ecostruder we need a website or facrbook group so we can all share files and such. I have no problem sharing. Ill see about posting on thingiverse.
@@docmortal Great idea! I might have to figure out a good way to do that for our burgeoning ECOstruder community. For now though, if you throw it up on Thingiverse please just leave a link here in the comments so others can find it. Thanks for sharing!
I believe WhamBam also makes custom flex plates.
Thanks for reviewing the upgrades. Extremely useful!
Yes, I just recently found out about those, and am interested in checking them out. Glad you enjoyed the video!
You have to turn off the hotend heater when probing with the sensor or it interferes with the readings.
The BL Touch is a better option anyway as it doesn't suffer from this issue.
Well EcoStruder, thanks for the cool video! Funny as I just sent you an email asking about the Big60 updates you have done and I hop on RUclips and lo and behold I see this video!! If you didn't buy this brand of printer, which one would you have picked (kit or otherwise)? Or do you answer this in another video?
Keep up the great videos and above all, keep on printing!
Thanks Jeffrey! It's wonderful when things work out that way, isn't it? I looked at a few different machines when considering my first Big60 (before I was affiliated with Modix). Some interesting options were the @makeit 2x4, @cultivate3d Beast v2, and re3Dprinting Gigabot. Those may be worth a look. Personally, I'm quite happy with my choice but those others may offer something that is a better fit for specific users' needs.
Hi ECOstruder, Thank you for posting this video series online. It helped me make the purchasing decision towards Modix. I am currently building a Big 60 V3. I would say many of the improvements to that model are reflected in your upgrades. I do however have some questions. I want to print detailed parts in durable materials. Which high precision heater cartridges did you use a 40W or 30W? Have you used the E3D V6 in your machine? Or maybe the all metal hot end? And if so, did you buy the PT100s and heater cartridges for each and leave them installed in the heater blocks? Are there other upgrades you think it should have? Other then the ones you've expressed online? In your opinion, is Matterhackers the best priced for these upgrades or is there a more completive reseller? Thank you!
Ron, I'm glad you found these videos helpful, and congratulations on your new Big-60 v3! You have several questions listed here, so to keep this comment brief I'll give you short answers. For longer answers feel free to email me at ECOstruder@HartSmartProducts.com.
For small, detailed parts the E3D V6 hotend can produce amazing results on a Modix machine. Just be prepared to print slowly. I don't use the V6 on my Modix machines because I have smaller printers that are more suited for small print jobs.
I use the 24V 40W high precision heater. E3D also offers a 24V 65W High Temp heater that costs a bit more.
Yes, I added PT100 temp sensors to all hotends that I use on my various Modix printers.
I leave my Volcano hotends attached to the Titan Aero heatsinks and the SuperVolcano hotends attached to their heatsinks as well. That way swapping between them is quick and easy.
The various recommended upgrades really depend upon your needs. But upgraded lighting and Capricorn filament guide tubes are a great start.
MatterHackers is one of my competitors, so no, I wouldn't recommend shopping there! I would recommend heading over to www.hartsmartproducts.com for your various Modix upgrades!! ;-)
This video set has widened my printer search to include the beast that is a Modix Big 60. I have hunted around and found a V2 that was disassembled to move it and the company just never got around to putting it back together. Is there a parts list that you had from the upgrades mentioned on this video? Since I will be assembling the jigsaw puzzle I may as well do a few upgrades in the process. Lighting parts, casters, nozzles, heat break and BL touch are already on order but the motors could use a suggestion. I found "Makerbase MKS SERVO42A PCBA NEMA17 closed loop" as well as a 42B version. Which did you use?
Congratulations on locating a used V2 printer--they aren't easy to find! I would suggest reaching to Support@Modix3D.com to gain access to their assembly guides for the V2 machines. That would be a much easier way to "assemble the jigsaw puzzle." I actually used the Makerbase MKS SERVO42A closed loop steppers for my Big-60 V2. They have been absolutely perfect. Highly recommended.
@@ecostruder Thank you for the motor information. I contacted Modix to also get the V3 upgrades and found out that a month or two ago they stopped selling them which is kind of a bummer. I put that info here to let others know that it no longer exists though the Modix website mentions it and still has prices.
Good business to make money....can you program or change heads for finer detail
Yes, the printers are designed to be modular, so you can swap out the hotends and extruders in any way you'd like. By default they are compatible with all E3D hotends (V6, Volcano, and SuperVolcano). To use any other hotend/extruder, the worst case is that you might need to make a little adapter plate to mount it.
Hi, did you finally tried the v6 hotend? My aero titan is causing a lot of problem and I am thinking about try the bondtech bmg with v6 combo. Do you have any affordable combo suggestions?
Yes, I've used a lot of different extruder and hotend combinations on my various Modix machines. The Titan Aero was a nice improvement over the standard Titan that these came with, but there are significantly better options available now. The BMG is a great extruder, though I'd suggest a Mosquito Magnum if you switch to a Bondtech BMG(-M). That's a solid combo. Good luck!
Hey bud gow did you install the Bondech LGX to the modix big 60 hotend adapter.?
The titan is showing its age its just awful with flexibles.
Thx for any info you can give me.
Hi! We have a variety of printhead configurations we've tried over the years (too many to list here) for a variety of uses. The LGX is a good option for flexibles, as is the Hemera or the Omniadrop. Our general purpose printhead that we've standardized on uses a Bondtech BMG-M combined with a Takoto HE20 hotend. We like this combination so much that we've actually started offering it as an upgrade for others to use on their Modix machines as well. We call it our Premium Printhead 2, and we sell it here: hartsmartproducts.com/products/premium-printhead-v2. If you are printing with high detail or specifically with flexible materials then the Hemera could be a better way to go. We built one of those also, which is here: hartsmartproducts.com/products/revo-hemera-printhead-for-modix-printers.
I hope that helps!!
Any plans to do upgrades tutorials? I like what you have done so far, especially the swappable heads. However, don't you have to do a Z hight calibration every time you swap the head?
Hi! Probably not tutorials, per se, but yes we modify all of our machines very often to get them to do what we want. I never mind showing off what I've done to "Frankenstein" them into something I'm happy with!
Yes, each time the print head is swapped to a different hotend the z-offset needs to be adjusted. It's a relatively quick and fairly painless process, though. In fact, if I'm just doing a single print I often don't even bother with it. I just get it close and then babystep it from there once the print is started. Thanks for watching!
Great vid! I'm very interested in that method to turn off the bed heaters after the print is complete. Do you have more details on which pins you tapped into on the controller, and what g-code command you use in the ending script?
Thanks! The challenge with those IO-controlled power relays is getting one that has a high enough current capacity and is safe for unattended use. I went with the Power Switch Tail because of that specific reason, but it looks like the manufacturer has gone out of business. I just found a random unused IO pin (Pin 59) that was normally off/low and in my Ending Scripts I send the gcode "M42 P59 S255" to turn it on/high. The relay is set to be Normally Closed, so when it's triggered it opens, breaking the circuit and cutting power until the signal wire goes off/low again. If you decide to try this please be careful--that's a lot of power going through that box and can be dangerous.
I have arlo cameras connected to my network, that is how I monitor the big60, I plugged the heating unit to a smart plug so I can easily turn off the power from anywhere at any time. Is not a perfect solution but is simple an easy to do.
Do you think I could print cabinets with this?
Yes, this machine could certainly print a cabinet, though you'd probably want to use the newer version, the V3 rather than this V2. Shoot me an email to ECOstruder@hartsmartproducts.com if you want me to check out the model you wish to print, or if you want information about how to buy a Modix printer.
Nice!
Appreciate the videos Brandon! Very good info.
Could I ask from where did you get the flexplate system for this size?
Interested in garolite, as I'm printing alot of nylon recently.
Been using my Gigabot XL for 3 years now, going into 4th.
Thanks for watching! I got the FlexPlate system from BuildTak. It's not a standard size for them, so they have a minimum quantity and it's...rather expensive. That said, I'd be happy to facilitate an introduction. Shoot me a message to ECOstruder@HartSmartProducts.com if you'd like me to do that.
I bought my Garolite sheets from McMaster-Carr.
How do you like the Gigabot? They seem like nice machines.
@@ecostruder Thanks! Thats what i've been experiencing, for me it costs a bit more than what i'm willing to spend. Cheers, I'll have to check if they ship to Norway, did you order custom size or cut yourself?
Gigabots are nice machines without a doubt, built like a tank, but lacking in extrusion system and quite noisy. Also they have manual leveling, with a not so easy way to level the bed. A hassle. So it got its ups and downs, but all in all a good machine :)
I had to order a custom size. The Flex Plate base and the printer plates have to match, so cutting them myself isn't a great option.
@@ecostruder Hi Brandon, May I know how much is the price for The Flex Plate system?
@@bbbbbbbbb1975 I couldn't tell you what BuildTak is charging for these right now, but I'd be happy to connect you with someone at Buildtak to quote them out for you. Just shoot me an email to ECOstruder@hartsmartproducts.com!
Hi, I'm about to purchase one of these printers, can you tell me how you got the flexible build plate system and how much it cost?
Hi, yes I worked directly with buildtak to get this plate. Overall it's great, but pretty expensive. I find myself just printing on the PEI surface most of the time. That said, builtak's PEI is fantastic. If you want me to get you in touch with them just shoot me a message to ECOstruder@HartSmartProducts.com and I'll make the introduction! Hoping to set up a reseller relationship with these guys sometime soon.
i'm intressted in the stepper motor upgrade … could you provide some more details about them? type, brand, …?
Hi, these are the Makerbase MKS SERVO42 closed loop steppers. They're sold in lots of places, including Amazon. I hope they work as well for you as they do for me!
@@ecostruder Did these make a difference for audible noise? My coworkers don't like how loud the machine is which I think is mostly the X and Y motors.
@@MichaelFidler1 Yes, they made a huge difference. The X and Y motors are now virtually silent. Nearly the only noise the machine makes now is from the E3D heatsink fan and the Hiwin rails as the toolhead moves around.
I heard you are working on a tutorial...I can't wait. 🤣👍
If your bed leveling wasn't working did you talk to modix about it?
Hi, I'm not sure what you mean by this. If you are referring to the time when I had the inductive sensor equipped (prior to switching it over to the BL Touch) then yes, I did speak to Modix about it and they got me some replacement parts. However, even the replacement wasn't working great. The BL Touch, on the other hand has worked flawlessly since the day I installed it. I'm glad they only utilize BL Touch on their new machines now.
Are those BTT closed loop steppers? I bought those for my Modix but could not get them to work. Are there any specific settings on the steppers which I need to configure?
The closed loop steppers we are using on the Big-60 v2 are from MKS. But keep in mind that this is a V2 machine, which has a completely different type of stepper driver than the v3 machines do. So this particular closed loop stepper would not work on a Modix v3 machine since there is no place for the adapter board to plug in.
@@ecostruder IMHO, such a big printer, printing one object for days, should have been designed with closed loop steppers from V1. In any case, I'm considering the Big-60 V3, and thinking of connecting a closed loop module through the Duet Expansion Breakout Board, which has all the in/out ports which the MKS module needs. However the MKS is using the Alegro stepper driver which when used, is making such a noise that the whole neighborhood know that I'm printing... After moving to the Trinamic drivers on my desktop printers, which can be barely heard from the next room, I'm not going back to the Alegro's!!! Therefore I'm thinking about the uStepper S closed loop module that uses the Trinamic drivers, as well as having all the in/out ports needed. What do you think?
@@doronshalev7711 It actually sounds like you have looked into this more than I have! I love the closed loop steppers on my Big-60 V2, and I look forward to closed loop steppers on my V3 machines (I now have several), but I haven't done the work to figure out how best to do that quite yet. I do certainly agree that I have very little interest in going back to Allegro drivers from the nice, quiet, and smooth Trinamic ones. If you do move forward with this upgrade, please report back and let me know how it goes!!
@@ecostruder Components are on the way, however due to Covid-19, international shipping is a mess right now. I hope that in a month or two, I would be able to test the concept on one of my desktop printers, and report back.
@ECOstruder FYI - you can get rid of the external heater controller, add an SSR and control your heated bed (including on'off) thru the Duet. RE: ruclips.net/video/TiEwNf1H_Tc/видео.html
Yes, I've looked into this option. I don't want to eliminate the industrial bed heater controller, though. I used the SSR on my Big-60 v2 just to turn power to the controller on and off, but decided not to do that on my Big-120X v3. Hopefully Modix will come up with an officially supported solution sometime soon.
Hey is your 3d printer available for hire?
Hi Logan! Yes, we offer 3D printing services at www.HartSmartProducts.com, and would be happy to help you with your printing needs. Shoot us a message and we'll get back to you.
What firmware is this running? Marlin I hope
Yes, the version 2 machines all ran Marlin on 8-bit control boards. But the version 3 machines all run on Duet boards, which use RepRap firmware. The Duet boards are much nicer!
Hello everyone, May I know Modix have reseller or Authorized seller on Asia or Australia?
I'm not aware of what other Modix resellers there are around the world, but if you email sales@modix3d.com I'm sure they'd be happy to get you connected!
Leslie McNair I have the Big60 v2 as well, and thought that there should be a turn of sensor when the print is over to the hot bed. I bought the power switch tail as well, the white wire didn't come with it, what connections does it have at the ends, and how did you connect it to the main board.
The white wire was something I added to connect signal from the board to the relay. I just found a random unused IO pin (Pin 59) that was normally off/low and in my Ending Scripts I send the gcode "M42 P59 S255" to turn it on/high. My specific version of the relay is set to be Normally Closed, so when it's triggered it opens, breaking the circuit and cutting power until the signal wire goes off/low again. If you decide to try this please be careful--that's a lot of power going through that box and can be dangerous.
I only print PLA, my bed temp is 60dg. After putting the gcode in did you mean off/low instead of on/high. And also did you place the sensor wire on the 5v pins on the MKS mother board.
@@lesliemcnair6470 As far as whether the I/O should be high or low, that depends on whether your relay is Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC). Mine is NC, so I start with no signal, and go high when it should turn off. Not sure what sensor wire you are referring to, but the signal wire ran from the MKS board to the relay, yes.
Thanks for your time, amazon imforms me that the product is out of stock. I do understand when you say signal wire, instead I used sensor, and I just wasn't shoer about what pin connection to the MKS board should be placed. In time I may still set it up. Thank you again.
you pretty much changed everything on the machine
Haha, I do tend to overdo my modifications. I can't help it--I love to try new things to see if I can make what's already working even better. You know what they say, "If it ain't broke, Fix it 'til it is!"
That beard though