Replace & Upgrade Balljoints - Duramax/Silverado
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- Опубликовано: 28 мар 2016
- Upgrade your balljoints to Kryptonite and Xtreme Duty from dmaxstore.com
I forgot to mention - If your balljoints are still factory balljoints that have not been replaced, you will need to grind the welds off the top. An angle grinder with a cutoff wheel works great. 
Наука
Straight to the point.no jacking around. Everyone else would have Turned this much info into a 5 hr video. Great job!!
Just in case anyone else is looking the KR6696 factory style press in upper ball joint is orientated with the index mark to the OUTSIDE like the Mevotech TTX also. Apparently Kryptonite can't get that basic info included with their products as far as I can tell I got NO instructions and they have nothing on their website. After emailing them they sent me instructions they blame on new employees omitting a print out from the packages.
Use a ratchet strap between the 2 control arms to suck them together and get the nuts on the upper joint. No need to mess with torsion bar adjuster
Cool, you tied a Radium Release Hitch without using carabiners - very creative and resourceful! Thanks for the vid!
Excellent video. Great quick cuts and editing! Very straight and to the point, as well as being helpful regarding every size nut & torque specs. Thank you!
Thanks, hope it was helpful.
Well done video. Very informative and practical!
Awesome video bud God bless you.
i need to do this job soon... thanks alot
Top shelf brother. Like a sore thumb.
Great video them ball joints are cool too one was kinda see through was neet
Heavy work thanks gays
Those Kryptonite lower ball joints are mevotech tough terrain you can get them from rock auto for $60 both
Oh is is that sooooo... An do they come with a Lifetime warranty?? Stop talking out ur ass dude.
c l actually yes they are I’ve broke two kryptonite and your saying what about them ? There no different that any other out there they just say life time right well your limit is two so don’t be so quick to run your mouth troll
@@movingearth3726 lol ya an Mevotech doesn't have a warranty on their ball joints, nope the limit is Not two, it clearly states in the warranty for the lifetime of the original owner of the vehicle they will be replaced period.
c l I get where you’re coming from I don’t care what it states I’ve been there done that dealt with him to is the limit dude if you suck them hard enough you’ll get a third pair out of them it’s not a lifetime warranty that is a misinterpretation you need to read the fine
@seth I think they're Timken wheel bearings, the markings on them are basically identical.
You could have used a pry bar to force the upper control arm downward to meet the knuckle. This may have been easier than just undoing the torsion bar. Great video. Thanks.
fun stuff
good video ...and after I doing all hard work I have to take to and ALIGNMENT or just change the ball joins and ok?
I need to do EVERTHING on the front suspension on my GMC 2500HD (Hardly Dutiful)
Did you remove a snap ring from the upper control arm before removing it? Or did it not have one?
Do you have a link to the upper ball joints. I cant find them on there page
Will shallow sockets work for those or do I need deep
Would having bad lower ball joints make the truck shake at like 54 mph. Everything else is replaced
Nice video. Estimate on time per side to complete?
wjbirm I don't remember, didn't take a while afternoon. a year later and they're holding up great.
3 days
50/50 mix of acetone and tranny fluid is twice as effective as pb blaster. Where'd you get those oversized knuckles and lift? Sky jacker?
And do those big steering knuckles extend the life of your ball joints and allow you a higher chassis without so much torque on the torsion bars? thereby increasing ride stability? Thanks
I bought the truck already lifted, it's a pro comp 6" lift. I did the 2" torsion key "levelling kit" on my LB7 and this one rides way better with the lift.
Never heard of the acetone/ATF trick, I'll try it out.
Awesome video. I put them in the lower arms and they only lasted me about 32000 miles. I'm going to get a full set of them and have Kripo reimburse me cuz I don't off road or beat on my truck and they should last longer then that with 35's if there as tough as they claim. Hope yours last longer then mine. Thanks for the great video. 👍
You greased 'em at oil change intervals? I'm on the fence about buying some of these.
How did those ball joints hold up? There cheaper than the moog upgraded option from local part store..
Almost 2 years later, and they're still rock solid.
I know this was years ago but I am a little confused on the torsion bars. Do you have a video on those? My truck is heavy duty like yours. Do I take the bars out? Take the torsion off and leave them in? Heard you take some bolts out and remove clips?. What did you do? Is it safe?
Unload the t-bars by backing out the adjuster at the rear of the torsion bar. First jack up the wheel to unload the torsion bar, then back off the adjuster but keep track or how many turns, or wrench flats, you back it off, do you can re-set it after you're done.
Sorry my phones auto correct sucks. T-bars stay in but you will want to unload them. Back out the adjuster at the rear of the torsion bar and keep track of how many turns so you can reset it when you're done.
@@wintermetalhd Thank you
Wonder why you didn't go with the top control arm with the ball joint already installed.
I wonder why you'd pay to replace an upper control arm that doesn't need replacing.
And you dont get a quality ball joint
first last2 factory stick ball joints were welded and that’s it never head of that till just one but I’m fully covered
wintermetalhd well no brainer look at the price there the same as the ball joints he just bought
SOOOOO muh easier!
so the question is, he used the powertool to take the bolts off the wheel, why didn't he use the Power tool to put the wheel back on ? and what was that Blue tool he used to take the hubcap off ?
Because using an impact to install lug nuts is stupid.
How have those kryptonites held up for you?
Great. Looks like I've got about 50,000 miles on them and they're still solid. Last I checked them was probably 6 months ago.
Nice gonna do my lml 2011 soon order is on the way kryptonite!!! Dmax store also give yourself credit
Take the CV axle out, safe you alot of time with it being out of your way
how the fuck did those torsion key bolts turn like that!! soft as butter
Ok. Now its been 4 years. How long did they last you?
I haven't checked them since last year. They were still good early last year.
@@wintermetalhd Im on the fence about them. Your one of the few people who has made videos about them for a chevy. Normally id do delco. But holy hell, they are price gouging lately. I have a 1500 and its looking at 6 to 7 for control arms from delco. Thats creeping into custom aftermarket price territory.
You didn't fully seat that lower ball joint
That wire you unplugged from the hub was your abs wire not speed sensor
There's no such thing as an "ABS sensor". How do you sense ABS? The ABS system uses a wheelspeed sensor to detect which wheel is locking up. It's a speed sensor.
@Daniel Zunk It doesn't tell the ECM if the wheel is turning, it tells the ECM how FAST the wheel is rotating. Because it's a SPEED SENSOR. Yes it's used during braking to determine if the wheel is locking up but it does so by measuring wheel speed. You can call it whatever you want but it is a SPEED SENSOR because it senses SPEED. It's probably a hall effect sensor and probably sends an AC current to the ECM which the ECM then uses to send a DC value to your speedometer. It probably also uses that signal as an indicator for engaging the ABS system, but that doesn't change the fact that the wires I'm talking about come from a SPEED SENSOR. It is what it is.
Also, there are two wires in the system. So if you want to call it an ABS wire, you need to call it ABS wires. And you'll still be more than half wrong on what the sensor is used for as it's used for sensing SPEED probably over 99% of them time and for indicating wheel-lock for the ABS system less than 1% of the time.
Congratulations, you're right 1% of the time. I don't mind corrective criticism, unless it's wrong.
@@wintermetalhdi wonder what a ABS sensor does ive never heard of one.😂
@@wintermetalhd but if you want that at the parts store you'd better call it an abs sensor otherwise they will end up bringing one that goes inside of the transmission.
@@erictkd8 It's been a long time since I've messed with any of this. But I'm pretty sure you're talking about the output shaft sensor, commonly known as, the output shaft sensor.
Not a chance torque on the joints is as tight as possible 😂
You must have way to much tension on torsion bars. I bet that truck rides horrible.
I don't remember how cranked it was when I made this, the adjuster screws are less than half way now and it rides great. Except for the ghost wobble I can't trace down.
STEERING BOX
Wtf where’s the skock