Chevy Silverado K2500 Upper & Lower Ball Joint Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2015
- Below is a list of the parts used and the brand I trust to get the job done (check fitment guide for your vehicle)-
Upper Ball Joint:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Lower Ball Joint:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
3/8" drive Milwaukee Impact I used for the whole job:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
Mapp Oxygen torch kit used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
Medium strength Loctite-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Best Rust penetrant I have found-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
PB Blaster rust penetrant alternative:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Strong Brake cleaner I use-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Torque specs vary year to year but the ones listed during the video are a good general guide overall.
BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “BSG Automotive”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. BSG Automotive shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by BSG Automotive and therefore, BSG Automotive does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge BSG Automotive or anyone affiliated with BSG Automotive, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. 
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First truck owner here. This video will be helping me tremendously. Thank you.
Did lower ball joint on 2006 Duramax today. Had to drill 5 relief holes in old joint close to edge of arm. It was a ball joint from Iran!!! Finally got it to start moving. 2 hours of pounding with block of wood and trolley jack under lower arm. I even let it soak overnight in transmission fluid. It was original. Changed hub bearing Timken, upper ball joint and backing plate. Did not forget the new knuckle hub o-ring.
Best k2500 front sus vid on youtube.
Excellent tutorial. Haven't started tearing into my 89 Silverado, but this helps immensely!
Excellent video! You’re a great teacher with great hints! About to do my 1998 6.5 and feel way more confident now! Thank you 👍🏼
Fantastic. Easy to tell he is the voice of much experience. I wish he had done the lower A-arm bushings as I need to do mine and not sure about the torsion bar. Best on youtube!
Thanks for making the video BSG. Your instructions are very clear. I'm ready to tackle this front end job soon😬.
Tip- After wheel is removed, first remove outer tie rod from knuckle. This allows you to turn the knuckle any which way you want without having to go inside the vehicle and turn the steering wheel. Great vid!
good video. milled the ball joint rivets off and it took a 20 ton press to push those pins through.
next time I'm buying a complete control arm! Lol.
Solid video! With what size sockets you need and the file!! This is PRO!! Much props! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I needed to confirm that they do flip the upper ballpoint at the factory as compared to k1500 uca. I needed some more +camber after raising tortion bars and positioning bj under uca did the trick.
Great video with lots of detail and good video work. Steps were very similar to my 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4WD.
Wonder if its that same as a 1997 k1500 burban any idea?
If you don't mind me asking what year is this truck? thanks for this great video, is it a large stud? reason why I ask is I'm modifying my old van upper control arms, the ball joints on this one are large studs, thanks again
Excellent video...will be doing my suburbans tomorrow thanks to this video!
Just a word of wisdom. Make sure you know which lower control arms you have. These ones are forged (7200#) lowers, where heavier front ends will have stamped (8600#) lower control arms. The ball joints are a different size press fit. I like the video😉
I completed the identical procedure for the first time on my 1995 Silverado K2500 4WD. Everything went exactly as you demonstrated on the video. The only problem I ran into was keeping the lower ball joint aligned while trying to press it into place. I had a hard time getting it to go in straight. It wanted to list sideways. Do you have any suggestions on how to manage this problem.
Old post, but for future searchers, place the ball joint in the freezer overnight. Then heat up the control arm hole with a propane torch. The ball joint will almost slip in by hand. Be mindful of the zerk hole in relation to that service divet on the control arm when you're inserting the ball joint, like Brian pointed out. Also, wear gloves so you don't get burned.
Great video, love your Chanel , keep the good work my friend thank you
At 9:19 he starts to remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle----so I don't need that special separator? The J 42188-B? I can just use normal methods like what you're doing? I am looking into doing this on a 2013 silverado 2500 hd and I see it's saying I need that special separator. Thanks in advance for any info you have.
this video good for a 99 tahoe 4x4?
would you have any idea where I can get the rubber Jounce Bumpers for my 04 Ford Ranger 4X4 both sides were rotted out Do you know of a substitute maybe
Excellent how to video. Only thing I would change is speed up the sequence showing how to remove a wheel.
I liked your video, nice job.
Does anyone know what size the lower ball joint nut is?
Excellent video, Thank you!
Is that a forged bottom arm?
Informative video thanks 🙏🖖
What year group are you working on here?
That info would be nice to know if it were in the title.
Keith Matthews 89-98 the same
Thanks great video
Well done. Thanks
Pretty good video
Very well done, Brian. I see you're a whiz on GM vehicles as well as Fords.
+wysetech2000 Kind of......
Yeah, you are. Very precise in your work.
wysetech2000 v vvt1kn
What year truck?
What is the size of the scocket(s) needed to take off the ball joint castle nuts?
24 mm bottom. 18 mm top
I thought the upper ball joint flange was supposed to go on top of the control arm, right? my factory one on the other side is this way and it is how I've seen everyone else do it.
I ask because it looks like my ball joint has a gap since I replaced it
John if it goes on the top, you can't get the stud all the way through the knuckle.
I have the same question. I'm second guessing now. But it seems to only line up from below.
Can you tell me what year this vehicle is? It looks the same as the 2013 silverado 2500 hd, if I'm not mistaken. Thank you sir!
It’s a 94 or around there
I have 4 steel pins on my lower ball joint. Should I center punch and drill these out? (1995 k-1500 W/T)
I just removed the original riveted lower ball joints on a 1990 k2500. How I did it was air chisel the heads off, then drilled the rivets about 2/3 of their depth (did not drill all the way through), using a 5/16" cobalt/titanium bit. Next, used a 5/16" straight punch and a 3-lb. hammer to pound the rivets out. I did have to use a torch to heat up the metal around the rivets, though, and even then, had to beat the snot out of them to get them out (truck is from New England where road salt is used in winter).
@@kenc.9067
I KNOW what you went through!
I did my left and right on a 95 k1500.
Mopar rust penetrating oil... 😂😂😂 I'll bet it is the best! They need something like that the most! Haha! Sorry, had to! 👍😉 Great video! Thank you!
Always Great Videos! Mahalo's. Ever try Kroil penetrant? Stuff works great. It really wicks into everything and makes it super easy.
+Hawaiian F150 Yes I have a can of it for the very tough jobs.
It would have been a nice helpful video if you told us the sizes
can you tell me if the lower was forged or stamped?
Forged/cast
180 ft lbs for the axle nut
Nice job......
Which brand name is good wheel bearing
Timken and Moog is ok too.
Lock tight Green on lower ball joint.
I loctite the uppers regardless
you never want to use a file on that inner bore that's a critical area
you're adding scarring to the surface just Scotch-Brite and your hand with a rag and clean it
you only file if there was something raised up
Glad to see this but I'm confused by the fact that its not a Ford... Lol
My 1994 K2500 lower ball joint look nothing like yours. In my limited experience press in ball joints have always been on K1500s. Video was no help.
thanks enjoyed the video well done. about to do the same to my truck, only criticism i have is wear some gloves before you need to watch liver transplant videos brake clean is nasty shit
step back and hit that thing man...3 good hits and they're out for me..although I do them all day long at the dealer.
+stilltlrforlife Agreed the 3lb sledge is best they blow right through on the Fords I do but this truck was extremely rusted. Also it's hard to explain but with the camera in the way and you being out of the way it makes things very awkward to work on.
BSG Automotive yea, I get it..doing it on a hoist helps too. more leverage for a good swing
Why didn't you just press the lower out? Much easier than beating it out
No tools
Hit it from the backside!!!
You Know it's a GM when you get about 10 pounds of rust on the ground lol
@@deadguy361 right dodges are 30# and fords dont even make it into the garage
If they were all that easy.
Why not show how to change ball joints only? Instead this guy explains how to remove a tire and a whole lot if info no one cares about. Wastes everyone's time!!!