Ghostses thank you for showing just how much pulling force is needed to get these ball joins off. People are running to local store after watching other videos that show the start of the ball joint removal then magically jump to it coming off a second later thinking it's easy only to get to the press part and realize they have all these parts off and not enough force to press off or on these joints. There stuck. But at least you show the amount of REAL work it takes to get them off
No problem Mario! I've not seen any of those videos- but they do not come off, or go on, that easy. Glad I was able to show the true effort it takes even though I didn't know I was. Take care, G.
A tip in case someone doesn't have a post/flat bit for their air hammer. I drilled my rivets out. As soon as I switched to a "good" drill bit each rivet took me only 5 min to drill down to where I then punched it out with a simple wood workers nail set punch. I used a 3' piece of wood to use as a lever on my drill to get more drill press-ish. This really helped speed things up. Thanks for the video gave me confidence to start my job!! I also bought a pickle fork for this job but... again your video gave me the confidence to use your hammer method. With a little help from PB Blaster and a 5 min soak time. Whack upper ball joint and tied rod end both separated without a fork. I get to take it back to sears and save $41.00! Whoo hoo this job has only cost me a ball joint and a 36mm socket to get the spindle nut off!!
Mitt Nagivag That's great Mitt! Glad the video helped and you were able to use the hammer method to get things apart. Nothing wrong with getting some of your money back! Good tips- especially using your drill and some wood as a press-ish press. There's nothing like doing it yourself plus you saved some cash in the process. Good job! Take care, G.
I found it less hassle to remove the control arms and swap the joints off the tuck. My cheap twenty year old Harbor Freight bottle press makes short work of them. A bro at the alignment shop with many years experience suggested putting a SLIGHT entrance chamfer on the hole with a flap disc or wheel before pressing the joints into the control arms. Works very well.
A job I've never done. I've never wanted to either. It's a pain....! You did a good job..! I would like to add this.... I had a vehicle that I replaced the CV axles, short driver side, three times, thought it was bad luck. I bought them for new at advance auto. They honored their warranty all 4 times however, they would last about a year, each time. I really got tired of it so, I purchased a set from NAPA for almost double the price. I now have over 24000 miles and 2 years. Still rolling. I wanted to let others know what they get in the way of cheaper auto supply chains. Undoubtedly, these were rebuilds instead of newly manufactured parts. I enjoyed watching....Thanks for the viewing!
Good info Bain. I'm hopeful these will serve me well. I spent so much on the engine rebuild I had to cut back somewhere. If they become an ongoing problem, I will purchase Moog down the road. I do try to stay away from rebuilt parts. It's like a turkey shoot from one to the next...lol. G.
Excellent video! thanks for taking the time to make it...I need new ball joints on a 99 escalade that I use on our "hobby farm"...decided to try to do it myself---really helped. Although it took me three days to get it all done....lol
+chicagomike6666 Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. Hey, at least you got it done! Not to mention how much you saved by doing it yourself. Good job! Take care, G.
Nice work. Penetrating fluid always eases the way; spray it in and allow it to soak in for 10 mins or so. Also some oil/grease on your g clamp so it lives to fight the next battle!
Great Video....thanks. Your idea to use a piece of wood to brace the upper control arm was quite helpful. However, we got the upper ball joint out differently, and quickly too. After we cut the rivets off, we found pounding down on them was going nowhere fast. Since the ball joint was being replaced, I hammered on the top of the ball joint with a metal mallet, and quickly the bottom began to separate from the control arm. I then used a pickle fork to pry it out....rivets and all. Took less than 5 minutes doing it that way. Thank you for the vid. We have a 1995 GMC K-2500 (Sierra) 4x4 in the Canadian North (road salt)
Good work which I'm sure you were glad to have done and get the satisfaction of knowing you did it so it was done right! When you were popping those rivers, how did you know I had my safety glasses on top of my head rather than over my eyes while sitting here watching on my iPhone? Weird how the grunts always seem to help us guys somehow. Even in different countries, the grunts are there just in a different language. I myself try smooth talking the bolts/nuts to break free. If that doesn't work I curse at them thinking I can scare them to move. Your persuader works better. Thanks for sharing. Bet it rides smooth and chatter free now.
Thanks Mac! LOL, that must have freaked you out. I didn't even know I was grunting until I was editing the video....lol. I cut the part out where I was sweet talking them, and then trying to scare them out....lol. It's tracking straight and it's nice and tight now. Working great! Thanks, G.
I just sucked it up and bought brand new upper control arms with the ball joints already installed. The Moog control arms were only a few dollars more for the entire arm. Much easier than having to try and drill out the rivets holding the old ball joint on. Plus it comes with new bushings.
You were correct about the cv axle not clearing the sway bar link. I still found it beneficial to loosen it anyway to give me more room. I jumped around the video though and may have missed you do that
Thank you for this! I was stuck on what to do with my lower ball joint because it almost seemed like it was all one piece and didn’t wanna have to do the whole a-arm
Hello. Thanks much for this video. I did my f150 about this time last year. Bought a 97 tahoe 2 door lifted 6" and the steering is sloppier than a drunk 80 year old hooker. Gonna start here and finish with 4 new shocks and a new steering box. thanks again DN
+J. David Neel Thanks David! LOL, hopefully changing things out will tighten it up. That's quite a lift. I guess it has dropped pitman and Idler arms on it as well. Good luck with the work, G.
Seems like the hammer method works well. I'm going to be replacing my knuckles with different ones that allow for larger calipers and rotors, and don't want to tear my ball joint boots with a pickle fork. Thanks for the video!
Great video. Ball joints and cv joints are the last thing to be replaced on my 98 Silverado steering wise. Now I know what I'm getting myself into. Hopefully this will take care of my wandering issues I have been having. Got the parts just need the time.
+ih1206 Thanks! It's not a fun job, but it can be done. I will give a warning though related to the inexpensive brand of parts I used for this video. My truck started shaking and wandering again. Just two nights ago I replaced every component shown in the video as they were all shot. I've probably only put 5k on the new parts. I purchased Moog this time, and they did take back the other parts for a complete refund. The cheap parts were about $168, the Moog were about $500. If you can swing it, I would highly recommend using better parts or you might have to do the job again. Hope this helps and good luck with your job, G.
I'll keep that in mind. I got orielly specials for everything but the balls joints since those are known to go bad. Doing the job again if need be isn't an issue, it's finding the time. Things should come apart easier too.
***** Good deal! That's the ones I used for the idler, idler bracket, pitman arm- and ball joints in my case. Hopefully your specials will last way longer than mine did. Take care, G.
Thanks for taking the time to work with the camera. I'm going to tackle the ball joints on my 98 Tahoe in a few weeks. How did backyard mechanics like me do stuff before YT?
+MOAArtstore No problem! Good luck with your project. You got me..lol. I can't imagine my life without the internet, and I somehow managed to get things done well before it came along..lol. Take care, G.
I wouldn't think of starting a project without a "Chilton " or "Haynes " manual. (without the internet). Itvis still nice to have the manual for unusual or just a little more data. Good luck!
Thanks Lee! Good catch on the year, I didn't even notice I said that. I had an 86, then a 94, and on to the 98. Too many numbers to process...lol. It's a great truck for sure. It's not a fun job, but with the proper tools it can be done without too much pain. I think the job took around 6-7 hours but it's hard to say since I was filming it. That always makes things take much longer. Plus I'm usually in no hurry so I tend to dally around a bit. Take care, G.
Thank you for posting this. Congrats on a job well done. I was tempted to give this a shot on my sons truck until I saw the specialty tool for pressing them in/out. I thought it was a regular c clamp initially. Is there any way around having to get that tool or is it a must? Looked hard enough with the right tool. The "two kicks" comment I haven't heard but it painted a picture in my mind as soon as you said it. Ha! Also some familiar comments about slipping off the nut. I once punched an engine block just about as hard as I could... I agree... All bad! Thanks again for taking the time to share this even though it slowed you down. Take care!
No problem! I believe the tool would be a requirement to get the job done. You might be able to rent one from any parts store. They might not have the proper cups to accept the joint though. This is the actual tool I used. www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html This is a kit that has other cups that should work. www.harborfreight.com/master-ball-joint-adapter-set-14pc-60307.html It's not the easiest job, but can be done for sure. Yep, two kicks and slipping off is all bad for sure!!...lol. Hope this helps and good luck, G.
Did the truck you worked on take the stamped lower ball joint? Mine is a 1996 chevrolet silverado K1500 and my lower a frame looks different than yours. Mine looks like it's got a piece of extra steel on the end so is mine forged
Dennis, this truck took the joint for the forged lower A. Here's a link that shows both types of lower A's. Not sure of the year, but should give you an idea. Good luck, G. www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/control-arm-ball-joint-question.145187/
Nice video G. Looked to me those were OEM BJ's in there which meant you got 200K out of them on a 4x4 to boot...PDG! Two surprises though...the round bar/tubular¿ upper A and changing the Pitman. Think I have only changed about 4 pitmans in all the FE work I've done and the RB/Tube upper A, seems a bit cheesy to me for a 4x4. Never did like pickle forks much, only when necessary (mainly on beat to death tie rod ends) but used a 2lb short handle sledge...One well placed wack usually did it. One minor point I learned early on under wheel wells...Only use box ends/sockets and pull, not push...just noticed and began to wince...Lol ~¿@ Thanks for sharing your good work!! PJ
Thanks PJ! They were OEM for sure. I know the entire history on the truck since it's been in the family since new. It's had an easy life. But yeah, 200k is pretty impressive for sure. I agree, the arms seem cheesy. I would mainly use forks when I thought I would bang in someones fender...lol. The hammer I was using was too light for the task, but I got it done. My dad broke the handle on his hand sledge and hasn't picked up a new one yet. I had mine at home, but didn't want to go get it. I agree on pull vs push and have busted many a knuckle pushing...lol. That brings me to a short story when I was doing a rear alignment on a Honda eons ago. I was pulling with the box end on the nut, 22mm I believe, when it slipped off and cracked me on the bridge of the nose. It almost knocked me out. Needless to say I thought I was going to bleed out...lol I broke it plenty good. I think it's been broken two more times over various things. It seems once they break, the break again even easier. Take care, G.
***** Yow! My eyes started watering just reading about it...Slamin & Jamin for the clock will get you when you least expect it. Mine was an ancient, nasty ford truck, bout severed my thumb on the fender well when it came loose but would have cracked me on the nose if I hadn't...either way It's All Bad! LOL
I have them...lol. My tools are spread out between my shop and my dads. This was the biggest one I could find at the time. Undersized, but it got the job done. Take care, G.
When u have a clunk or wobble in this particular Chevy pickup it's either the pitman or idler arm ball joint! I bought a 97 silverado k1500 and needed idler arm so I just did the idler, pitman, upper control arms and lower ball joints. It's cheap enough
In reference to the rivets: 1.) take a grinder and grind the heads flat. 2.) take a wide flat chisel and hit between the seat and the A-spring a bunch until you see a gap. (VERRRRRYYYY SMALL GAP) 3.) use a sawzall and thin metal blade placed between the two and cut them off. 4.) use your grinder and grind the exposed to pet shafts flat to why A-spring once again 5.) find a flat punch with a head a little smaller than the diameter of the rivet shaft. 6.) find a metal drill bit the same size or a little wider than your flat punch and make a small indention in the exposed rivet shaft with a side depth of approx 1mm. 7.) take you flat punch put it in the drilled indention and Beat the rivet until it pops out from the under side. (Maybe 30 hard hits) I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE ELSE NOT TO LOSE THEIR MIND AND RELIGION LIKE I DID. Now if you’ll excuse me I’ve got to find a church and ask some forgiveness!
Don't know if you have watched The Dick Vandyke Show when he had his brother, Jerry Vandyke on, but he also played on the show Coach. But anyway when he played on the Dick Vandyke Show, he played as Dick's brother, but he played as a sleep walker and when he fell asleep he could play a banjo, and when he wasn't sleep walking he couldn't. If you've never seen it you may find it on you tube. It's funny so you will enjoy it. Thanks for your video, helped me a lot.
Hope you torqued that axle nut to 170 ft lbs or else your going to ruin the bearings in the hub. Axle nuts are supposed to be put on by a torque wrench not an impact. I have basically the same truck 1997 tahoe 4x4. Also you need an alignment after you did this work.
***** Thanks for the input Ed, and no I didn't torque them down. The bearings already have around 200k on them so if any go bad, they will be changed out. I should have mentioned that an alignment should be done after preforming any front end work, but spaced it. It's a given to me, but I should have mentioned it for those that don't know and might wonder why their steering wheel isn't straight and they're burning their tires off the vehicle...lol. Take care, G.
I said nooo when you grabbed the point punch on the air hammer, flat punches are the best for driving, they dont mushroom the head and it has more surface area to transfer the inertia for the impact. i cant stand these ball joints, did one , time to do the other side now...heat works well too for the lowers
Hello Ghostses. I’m enjoying your videos, this one and working my way through the engine rebuild series. When you replaced the pitman arm, was it necessary for you to drop (remove?) the steering box? I would have loved to see some footage of your work on that but I understand it’s in close quarters for filming. Thanks for the great videos!
Man TG, it's hard to remember, but I do believe I did take the bolts out of the steering box, but didn't remove the lines. A bit late, but hope this helps. Good luck, G.
Hey man, great video, been running into a problem with my truck, got the lower ball joint pressed out, but getting the new one pressed in has been an issue, keeps going sideways all 8 times we’ve tried to press it in, I’m thinking to try and basically hone out the mounting hole a very tiny bit, if you have an opinion on the situation.
I don't know if honing out the hole would be a great idea. I do know there are two different ball joints for this truck. Perhaps the one's you have are incorrect? Not much info, but hope this helps. G.
Great job on the ball joints etc. BTW, he sounds like Goober not Forrest Gump. Not an insult buddy, just noticed it. Good video! I'll be doing this same job soon.
Thanks for the good video, I will be changing my upper and lower ball joints on my 96 Tahoe 4x4 this week. Got the new ball joint press tool yesterday, AC Delco ball joints from Amazon be here tomorrow. Is the size for the outer Axle nut 32mm ? I may have to buy one if I can't find one in my tool boxes. Thanks again.
***** Thanks, I am going to by a 13 piece metric deep impact socket set tomorrow. The biggest one on that rack is 32mm, so I hope 32mm is right. If not I will run over to Ace and buy a single, I had every size socket and tool known to man (well except a ball joint tool). I don't know what happened to all my 1/2 inch drive sockets, I guess they got lost from the moving company. While digging thru my tool boxes today I noticed a lot of my other Snap On tools are missing also. Thanks for fast reply.
Mark Mcgrath No problem Mark! Hopefully the 32 in the rack will be the correct one. If any of my Snap-on tools were taken during a move- I'd be hunting all of the movers down with a vengeance. I hope they were just misplaced and turn up with more digging. G.
I am not able to get my lower ball joint to separate from the control arm. I've beat it to death with a 2 lb hammer and it wont budge. I just went and bought a ball joint removal tool and it is too small to fit. Can you use jaw-style pullers to get lower ball joints to separate from the control arm? It's a 1998 Chevy Silverado that I'm working on too.
xr29fb32 If you mean the ball joint wont separate from the steering knuckle- you might want to try a 4 pound hammer. If you're trying to remove the ball joint from the control arm, you will need a ball joint press. I'm not sure of trying to use a jaw type puller in either scenario. G.
Hey Ghostses, I need some help. I am doing the ball joints on my GF's 1995 Yukon. Your video has been immensely helpful so far. I am in the process of putting everything back together and I've noticed that the driver side does not have an axle nut washer and the passenger side did. I am guessing that whoever owned the truck before lost it on the driver's side???
+Timothy Haun That's sure what it sounds like to me Timothy. I did find three different ones at O'reilly Auto that might work. Check them out to see for sure. Hope this helps, G. www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Spindle!s!Axle+Washer/01234/C0362.oap?model=Yukon&vi=1166419&year=1995&make=GMC
+ghostses Hey G, got it all back together. My string alignment was surprisingly accurate, but there is a problem. Whenever parking or cutting the wheel sharply every once in a while there is a "popping" sound. I double checked the work and everything is back as it should be. Could I have over tightened something?
+Timothy Haun Hmm. My first thought would be a bad ball joint causing the popping. My truck was doing the same thing before I changed everything out- mostly in parking spots like you mention. I did change upper and lowers, the pitman arm, idler arm, and idler bracket all at the same time so it could have been any one of those causing the problem. You didn't mention all you changed out so I'm not sure in your case. I doubt you over tightened something. Another thing you might check is the hub bearings for play. Good luck, G.
Never heard of the 2 kicks off the right leg before, PMSL. Never knew about drive on rack either. I have a cunning plan for one of them now. Where did you get the lift?
LOL! I picked that up from my instructor years ago. He was talking about the importance of using stands and never trusting a jack. I guess it stuck with me since I didn't even register I said it...lol. He also went on to say that your mama would find you pinned under the car and would be heartbroken and stricken with grief- or something to that effect. Everything funny he said, he said it with a straight face...lol My dad picked up the lift from somewhere. They're great for under carriage work, but can be a pain when taking off the wheels if you don't have the jacks that can be installed on them- which he doesn't. This isn't the exact brand he has, but it pretty much looks like this one. www.radliftsbygemini.com/product-sg7000.php Take care, G.
About how long did this whole job take? Both sides I mean. Got a 99 tahoe and all 4 ball joints in hand just being lazy and I'm nervous its gonna take me a day or two considering I'm in high school and work on borrowed time in our auto shop haha.
Christian, from setup to clean-up it probably took me about 1.5hrs. I don't know how much time you have in shop- but you could do one side one day, then the other on another day. Or ask the shop teacher if you can leave it on the rack till you're finished with it- and get a ride from a friend if it's not finished. With you not being experienced it really might take a couple of days to do it- but it is what it is. Try not to be lazy- just jump in and get it done...lol. Remember though- after you're finished, you will need to take it to a shop to get an alignment. Or if the school shop has an alignment rack- you could do it there. Let me know how it goes and good luck! Take care, G.
I would check the ride height to make sure it's correct before cutting things off. You can probably find the measurements somewhere online- and how to take them. If it's not correct, you should be able to adjust the torsion bars to bring it into specs. Then get an alignment. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses Yep, a lot faster. Man, wish I bought new control arms instead..lol Stupid rivets! I just finished up, also cleaned up a bunch of rust and treated it with a converter. If you ever decide to try that, Corroseal, easy peasy.. Thanks for makin the vid!
That's cool Mark! The first one always takes the longest since you have to figure out what works, what doesn't, tricks, etc. Yeah, the rivets suck for sure. Glad you got it though. Glad the video was useful. Take care, G.
You were using the Press wrong when you were installing the ball joints. When you installing it you have to use it the opposite not like that way you were using it.
ghostses thank you! I was driving down the road at a pretty good rate of speed when my upper balljoint let lose. I almost rolled my truck. I went up on two wheels after my tire folded under my truck. All I could smell was burnt rubber. Scared the hell out of me.
2 things....1- You sound like Forest Gump, you should add a Jenny quote to your videos!!! 2- what brand Ball Joint tool do you use? ive noticed my Make looks alot like OTC which is what yours looks like
+ghostses I hear the HF one isn't a bad press at all if your just smart with it. I have quite a bit of Mac and Snap-on tools, as I used to wrench before joining the Union Pipefitters, but I did have several HF tools that I can't complain about!
+paul erenberger It's really not a bad press at all Paul- especially for what they cost. But, like you say- you have to be smart with it. I too have tons of Snap-on and some Mac tools from when I was wrenching decades ago. We had a couple of Snap-on shop supplied presses and even they were jacked from miss-use. Agreed! I've purchased a lot of HF items and am pleased with the majority of them. One could almost load up a box with HF tools for what a Snap-on Master kit costs. It's a great place for diy and shade tree folks that are on a budget. They have tons of specialty tools that you could normally only find on a tool truck, or maybe rent from an auto store but they're usually hammered...lol. Pretty cool place. Take care, G. G.
+ghostses one last thing, just wanted to say thanks for the videos you make and the reviews. They are helpful! Keep on keeping on man. Have a good one!
+BAR 20 BBQ. I was, every component failed in short order. I returned them for a complete refund and went Moog the second time around. So far so good. G.
BAR 20 BBQ Agreed, when I was doing suspension and steering about 25yrs ago- that's all I would use. I was hoping things changed since then, and I could save some money, but I was wrong..lol. G.
+south9563 I think it was Master Pro- but same same. The work is the same either way. I did have to do the job again since all of them failed inside of 5k miles. I got a full refund and went with Moog. G.
+ghostses omg, 5k miles? thats a record, ive seen it as low as 9k but not 5k, moog is definitley the way to go, it saves time and money. ACDelco also but only the "Proffesional" line, other than that, the "Daily driver" line is just as bad as Master Pro. Do you have any feedback on Duralast from autozone, i went Duralast on my idler arm and idler arm bracket. I did however go MOOG on pitman arm.
+south9563 Yeah, I was really surprised- and all highway miles too- no rough terrain. If I ever cheap out on anything now, it will be a direct bolt on something that can be changed again without major surgery. No, no opinion on Duralast. At least it's a little easier to change than the pitman if it goes south on you. G.
I was looking at Mevotech TTX line (TXK6477) for the lower ball joints, these are a little more money than Moog. Factory lower ball joints from the dealer are like 10 bucks more than Moog, but the upper ones are crazy expensive.
+Zulkifli Abraham How so? Your blanket statement leaves much to be desired. I checked for your video and couldn't find it. Send me the link so I can see what "good work" is. G.
Ghostses thank you for showing just how much pulling force is needed to get these ball joins off. People are running to local store after watching other videos that show the start of the ball joint removal then magically jump to it coming off a second later thinking it's easy only to get to the press part and realize they have all these parts off and not enough force to press off or on these joints. There stuck. But at least you show the amount of REAL work it takes to get them off
No problem Mario! I've not seen any of those videos- but they do not come off, or go on, that easy. Glad I was able to show the true effort it takes even though I didn't know I was. Take care, G.
A tip in case someone doesn't have a post/flat bit for their air hammer. I drilled my rivets out. As soon as I switched to a "good" drill bit each rivet took me only 5 min to drill down to where I then punched it out with a simple wood workers nail set punch. I used a 3' piece of wood to use as a lever on my drill to get more drill press-ish. This really helped speed things up. Thanks for the video gave me confidence to start my job!! I also bought a pickle fork for this job but... again your video gave me the confidence to use your hammer method. With a little help from PB Blaster and a 5 min soak time. Whack upper ball joint and tied rod end both separated without a fork. I get to take it back to sears and save $41.00! Whoo hoo this job has only cost me a ball joint and a 36mm socket to get the spindle nut off!!
Mitt Nagivag That's great Mitt! Glad the video helped and you were able to use the hammer method to get things apart. Nothing wrong with getting some of your money back! Good tips- especially using your drill and some wood as a press-ish press. There's nothing like doing it yourself plus you saved some cash in the process. Good job! Take care, G.
Damn i recognized the hands and voice instantly. You are the one who rebuilt the 5.7vortec years ago down to the T👏
LOL! Yep, that was me. Take care, G.
@@ghostses you too,keep up the good work,subd!
@@JoseContreras-mv5yz Will do and thanks! G.
I found it less hassle to remove the control arms and swap the joints off the tuck. My cheap twenty year old Harbor Freight bottle press makes short work of them. A bro at the alignment shop with many years experience suggested putting a SLIGHT entrance chamfer on the hole with a flap disc or wheel before pressing the joints into the control arms. Works very well.
That's not a bad idea. Thanks for sharing, G.
A job I've never done. I've never wanted to either. It's a pain....! You did a good job..! I would like to add this.... I had a vehicle that I replaced the CV axles, short driver side, three times, thought it was bad luck. I bought them for new at advance auto. They honored their warranty all 4 times however, they would last about a year, each time. I really got tired of it so, I purchased a set from NAPA for almost double the price. I now have over 24000 miles and 2 years. Still rolling. I wanted to let others know what they get in the way of cheaper auto supply chains. Undoubtedly, these were rebuilds instead of newly manufactured parts. I enjoyed watching....Thanks for the viewing!
Good info Bain. I'm hopeful these will serve me well. I spent so much on the engine rebuild I had to cut back somewhere. If they become an ongoing problem, I will purchase Moog down the road. I do try to stay away from rebuilt parts. It's like a turkey shoot from one to the next...lol. G.
Excellent video! thanks for taking the time to make it...I need new ball joints on a 99 escalade that I use on our "hobby farm"...decided to try to do it myself---really helped. Although it took me three days to get it all done....lol
+chicagomike6666
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. Hey, at least you got it done! Not to mention how much you saved by doing it yourself. Good job! Take care, G.
Nice work. Penetrating fluid always eases the way; spray it in and allow it to soak in for 10 mins or so. Also some oil/grease on your g clamp so it lives to fight the next battle!
Thanks! Take care, G.
It would have been better to just replace upper control arms with ball joints in
Great Video....thanks. Your idea to use a piece of wood to brace the upper control arm was quite helpful. However, we got the upper ball joint out differently, and quickly too. After we cut the rivets off, we found pounding down on them was going nowhere fast. Since the ball joint was being replaced, I hammered on the top of the ball joint with a metal mallet, and quickly the bottom began to separate from the control arm. I then used a pickle fork to pry it out....rivets and all. Took less than 5 minutes doing it that way. Thank you for the vid. We have a 1995 GMC K-2500 (Sierra) 4x4 in the Canadian North (road salt)
+Lucy Zeus
That's a great way to get them off quickly! Thanks for the info. I'm sure it will help others out. Good luck, G.
Good work which I'm sure you were glad to have done and get the satisfaction of knowing you did it so it was done right! When you were popping those rivers, how did you know I had my safety glasses on top of my head rather than over my eyes while sitting here watching on my iPhone? Weird how the grunts always seem to help us guys somehow. Even in different countries, the grunts are there just in a different language. I myself try smooth talking the bolts/nuts to break free. If that doesn't work I curse at them thinking I can scare them to move. Your persuader works better. Thanks for sharing. Bet it rides smooth and chatter free now.
Thanks Mac! LOL, that must have freaked you out. I didn't even know I was grunting until I was editing the video....lol. I cut the part out where I was sweet talking them, and then trying to scare them out....lol. It's tracking straight and it's nice and tight now. Working great! Thanks, G.
*****
I would agree. I'd probably burn the whole thing down in the process...lol. G.
I just sucked it up and bought brand new upper control arms with the ball joints already installed. The Moog control arms were only a few dollars more for the entire arm. Much easier than having to try and drill out the rivets holding the old ball joint on. Plus it comes with new bushings.
There you go! Good idea. G.
fuck you smartasss
Excellent video!!!💯
Thanks Jeff. Take care, G.
You were correct about the cv axle not clearing the sway bar link. I still found it beneficial to loosen it anyway to give me more room. I jumped around the video though and may have missed you do that
That's cool! I don't recall if I did that or not. Take care, G.
I’m glad I have boiler clamps at work 💯 great video 👍👍👍
Thanks! Take care, G.
Thank you for this! I was stuck on what to do with my lower ball joint because it almost seemed like it was all one piece and didn’t wanna have to do the whole a-arm
Glad it was helpful! G.
Hello. Thanks much for this video. I did my f150 about this time last year. Bought a 97 tahoe 2 door lifted 6" and the steering is sloppier than a drunk 80 year old hooker. Gonna start here and finish with 4 new shocks and a new steering box. thanks again
DN
+J. David Neel
Thanks David! LOL, hopefully changing things out will tighten it up. That's quite a lift. I guess it has dropped pitman and Idler arms on it as well. Good luck with the work, G.
Seems like the hammer method works well. I'm going to be replacing my knuckles with different ones that allow for larger calipers and rotors, and don't want to tear my ball joint boots with a pickle fork. Thanks for the video!
Good luck with your project! G.
Kept thinking I was listening to Matthew Mcconaughey a few times lol good vid.
Yeah Drew, one date with me and they'd be throwing rocks at him...lol. Glad you liked the video. Take care, G.
Lmao dude i was just getting ready to comment this same thing
Thank you for the video I'm done ball joints I never done a four by four now I know I can do it save me some money thank you
No problem Jose. I bet you can pull it off. Good luck, G.
Excellent video on this process. Thank-you this has helped me a lot!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Good luck, G.
Great video. Ball joints and cv joints are the last thing to be replaced on my 98 Silverado steering wise. Now I know what I'm getting myself into. Hopefully this will take care of my wandering issues I have been having. Got the parts just need the time.
+ih1206
Thanks! It's not a fun job, but it can be done. I will give a warning though related to the inexpensive brand of parts I used for this video. My truck started shaking and wandering again. Just two nights ago I replaced every component shown in the video as they were all shot. I've probably only put 5k on the new parts. I purchased Moog this time, and they did take back the other parts for a complete refund. The cheap parts were about $168, the Moog were about $500. If you can swing it, I would highly recommend using better parts or you might have to do the job again. Hope this helps and good luck with your job, G.
I'll keep that in mind. I got orielly specials for everything but the balls joints since those are known to go bad. Doing the job again if need be isn't an issue, it's finding the time. Things should come apart easier too.
*****
Good deal! That's the ones I used for the idler, idler bracket, pitman arm- and ball joints in my case. Hopefully your specials will last way longer than mine did. Take care, G.
***** hugging the
I need to do the same thing to my '94. Thanks for the video!
That's cool. Good luck with your job, G.
Thanks for taking the time to work with the camera. I'm going to tackle the ball joints on my 98 Tahoe in a few weeks. How did backyard mechanics like me do stuff before YT?
+MOAArtstore
No problem! Good luck with your project. You got me..lol. I can't imagine my life without the internet, and I somehow managed to get things done well before it came along..lol. Take care, G.
we did it by guessing, cussing, and MANY trips to the parts store. lol
I wouldn't think of starting a project without a "Chilton " or "Haynes " manual. (without the internet).
Itvis still nice to have the manual for unusual or just a little more data. Good luck!
Yep Chitons/Haynes and there was also forums before RUclips came along.
Nice work.You said 89 not 98 at the beginning of video.I have the same truck. I'll be sure to refer to this video when the time comes. thanks
Thanks Lee! Good catch on the year, I didn't even notice I said that. I had an 86, then a 94, and on to the 98. Too many numbers to process...lol. It's a great truck for sure. It's not a fun job, but with the proper tools it can be done without too much pain. I think the job took around 6-7 hours but it's hard to say since I was filming it. That always makes things take much longer. Plus I'm usually in no hurry so I tend to dally around a bit. Take care, G.
Nice work maan
Thanks man! Take care, G.
Thank you for posting this. Congrats on a job well done. I was tempted to give this a shot on my sons truck until I saw the specialty tool for pressing them in/out. I thought it was a regular c clamp initially. Is there any way around having to get that tool or is it a must? Looked hard enough with the right tool.
The "two kicks" comment I haven't heard but it painted a picture in my mind as soon as you said it. Ha! Also some familiar comments about slipping off the nut. I once punched an engine block just about as hard as I could... I agree... All bad!
Thanks again for taking the time to share this even though it slowed you down.
Take care!
No problem! I believe the tool would be a requirement to get the job done. You might be able to rent one from any parts store. They might not have the proper cups to accept the joint though. This is the actual tool I used.
www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html
This is a kit that has other cups that should work.
www.harborfreight.com/master-ball-joint-adapter-set-14pc-60307.html
It's not the easiest job, but can be done for sure.
Yep, two kicks and slipping off is all bad for sure!!...lol.
Hope this helps and good luck, G.
Did the truck you worked on take the stamped lower ball joint? Mine is a 1996 chevrolet silverado K1500 and my lower a frame looks different than yours. Mine looks like it's got a piece of extra steel on the end so is mine forged
Dennis, this truck took the joint for the forged lower A. Here's a link that shows both types of lower A's. Not sure of the year, but should give you an idea. Good luck, G.
www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/control-arm-ball-joint-question.145187/
I’ve been driving a Lincoln waaay before I got paid to drive one.
Alright alright alright.
LOL! That's right! G.
Good work 4 wheel drive is a pain over two wheel drive.
Your not kidding, Roland. I like having the 4 wheel, until I need to work on it...lol. G.
Nice video G. Looked to me those were OEM BJ's in there which meant you got 200K out of them on a 4x4 to boot...PDG! Two surprises though...the round bar/tubular¿ upper A and changing the Pitman. Think I have only changed about 4 pitmans in all the FE work I've done and the RB/Tube upper A, seems a bit cheesy to me for a 4x4. Never did like pickle forks much, only when necessary (mainly on beat to death tie rod ends) but used a 2lb short handle sledge...One well placed wack usually did it. One minor point I learned early on under wheel wells...Only use box ends/sockets and pull, not push...just noticed and began to wince...Lol ~¿@ Thanks for sharing your good work!! PJ
Thanks PJ! They were OEM for sure. I know the entire history on the truck since it's been in the family since new. It's had an easy life. But yeah, 200k is pretty impressive for sure. I agree, the arms seem cheesy. I would mainly use forks when I thought I would bang in someones fender...lol. The hammer I was using was too light for the task, but I got it done. My dad broke the handle on his hand sledge and hasn't picked up a new one yet. I had mine at home, but didn't want to go get it. I agree on pull vs push and have busted many a knuckle pushing...lol. That brings me to a short story when I was doing a rear alignment on a Honda eons ago. I was pulling with the box end on the nut, 22mm I believe, when it slipped off and cracked me on the bridge of the nose. It almost knocked me out. Needless to say I thought I was going to bleed out...lol I broke it plenty good. I think it's been broken two more times over various things. It seems once they break, the break again even easier. Take care, G.
*****
Yow! My eyes started watering just reading about it...Slamin & Jamin for the clock will get you when you least expect it. Mine was an ancient, nasty ford truck, bout severed my thumb on the fender well when it came loose but would have cracked me on the nose if I hadn't...either way It's All Bad! LOL
pjsalchemy LOL. Yeah, it's like when I see someone fall on their knees mine start aching. All bad either way for sure. G.
You need to get a bigger hammer throw that little baby hammer away looks good Guy. good video
I have them...lol. My tools are spread out between my shop and my dads. This was the biggest one I could find at the time. Undersized, but it got the job done. Take care, G.
Is there anyway of getting a list of all the tools and sizes need for this
No, just start and get what you need if you're missing something. Good luck, G.
A quick tip for everybody the brake caliper bolts r a t 55 hex
Mine were Hex. Some may be different. Take care, G.
@@ghostses mine were as well ... Socket was a typo comment has been edited to reflect t55 hex
That's cool. Good luck, G.
When u have a clunk or wobble in this particular Chevy pickup it's either the pitman or idler arm ball joint! I bought a 97 silverado k1500 and needed idler arm so I just did the idler, pitman, upper control arms and lower ball joints. It's cheap enough
Very true Eric! Take care, G.
In reference to the rivets:
1.) take a grinder and grind the heads flat.
2.) take a wide flat chisel and hit between the seat and the A-spring a bunch until you see a gap. (VERRRRRYYYY SMALL GAP)
3.) use a sawzall and thin metal blade placed between the two and cut them off.
4.) use your grinder and grind the exposed to pet shafts flat to why A-spring once again
5.) find a flat punch with a head a little smaller than the diameter of the rivet shaft.
6.) find a metal drill bit the same size or a little wider than your flat punch and make a small indention in the exposed rivet shaft with a side depth of approx 1mm.
7.) take you flat punch put it in the drilled indention and Beat the rivet until it pops out from the under side. (Maybe 30 hard hits)
I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE ELSE NOT TO LOSE THEIR MIND AND RELIGION LIKE I DID. Now if you’ll excuse me I’ve got to find a church and ask some forgiveness!
Great tips! I'm sure it will help others. Take care, G.
Good work man ! Help me a LOT 😁👌🏼
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
Bravo. Well done
Thanks Rich! G.
Thank you for the help.👍👍🇨🇦
Good deal Bob! Take care, G.
Don't know if you have watched The Dick Vandyke Show when he had his brother, Jerry Vandyke on, but he also played on the show Coach. But anyway when he played on the Dick Vandyke Show, he played as Dick's brother, but he played as a sleep walker and when he fell asleep he could play a banjo, and when he wasn't sleep walking he couldn't. If you've never seen it you may find it on you tube. It's funny so you will enjoy it. Thanks for your video, helped me a lot.
No problem John! Glad it helped you out. I slightly remember watching the show when I was young. I'll have to try and find it. Good luck, G.
gotta love how extra sexy the 4wd is. but good safe video it is. thank you sir.
rotcodnatas No problem! Glad you liked it. Take care, G.
@@ghostses Yeah, it's good that you stressed safety. Balljoint is not something you can do from above the vehicle.
Awesome video Great work !
Thanks! Take care, G.
Up north people are probably punching air watching you use that small hammer and getting everything to come loose with ease.
Yeah, I bet. I couldn't find a bigger one for the task, but we got it done... Take care, G.
Hope you torqued that axle nut to 170 ft lbs or else your going to ruin the bearings in the hub. Axle nuts are supposed to be put on by a torque wrench not an impact. I have basically the same truck 1997 tahoe 4x4. Also you need an alignment after you did this work.
***** Thanks for the input Ed, and no I didn't torque them down. The bearings already have around 200k on them so if any go bad, they will be changed out. I should have mentioned that an alignment should be done after preforming any front end work, but spaced it. It's a given to me, but I should have mentioned it for those that don't know and might wonder why their steering wheel isn't straight and they're burning their tires off the vehicle...lol. Take care, G.
I said nooo when you grabbed the point punch on the air hammer, flat punches are the best for driving, they dont mushroom the head and it has more surface area to transfer the inertia for the impact. i cant stand these ball joints, did one , time to do the other side now...heat works well too for the lowers
That's true, I just don't have that attachment. Yeah, they're not much fun to do. Take care, G.
Found that c clamp useless. Beat them out with a ball pean hammer. Less than 15 hits, thank you.
Good deal Rick! Glad it worked out for you. Take care, G.
Hello Ghostses. I’m enjoying your videos, this one and working my way through the engine rebuild series. When you replaced the pitman arm, was it necessary for you to drop (remove?) the steering box? I would have loved to see some footage of your work on that but I understand it’s in close quarters for filming. Thanks for the great videos!
Man TG, it's hard to remember, but I do believe I did take the bolts out of the steering box, but didn't remove the lines. A bit late, but hope this helps. Good luck, G.
ghostses Thanks very much for getting back to me! I appreciate the advice. My ‘98 Z71 may be due for that pitman arm sometime soon...
@@BusyFingers No problem! Take care, G.
Hey man, great video, been running into a problem with my truck, got the lower ball joint pressed out, but getting the new one pressed in has been an issue, keeps going sideways all 8 times we’ve tried to press it in, I’m thinking to try and basically hone out the mounting hole a very tiny bit, if you have an opinion on the situation.
I don't know if honing out the hole would be a great idea. I do know there are two different ball joints for this truck. Perhaps the one's you have are incorrect? Not much info, but hope this helps. G.
Great job on the ball joints etc. BTW, he sounds like Goober not Forrest Gump. Not an insult buddy, just noticed it. Good video! I'll be doing this same job soon.
Thanks Patrick! Goober was THE man! Good luck with your job. G.
How long did it take u to do the other side since you were focused on that side 100% vs the side u filmed? Great video thanks!
Jesse, I'd say it was probably about 20min since I had to figure out some methods on the first side. Take care, G.
Ball Joints: The clean language version
There you go! G.
Thank you
No problem! G.
Have you ever noticed some of those receipts have disappearing ink, like Home Depot receipts ?
Moon Hitsearth Yes I have...lol. I guess after a while the thermal printing disappears. Pretty convenient inst it..lol. Take care, G.
*****
Take a picture,
Moon Hitsearth
Good idea! G.
Yeah, Great point. Now that you point it out. Thanks
Thanks for the good video, I will be changing my upper and lower ball joints on my 96 Tahoe 4x4 this week. Got the new ball joint press tool yesterday, AC Delco ball joints from Amazon be here tomorrow. Is the size for the outer Axle nut 32mm ? I may have to buy one if I can't find one in my tool boxes. Thanks again.
Don't get me lying Mark, but I think it was a 32mm that I used. Good luck with your project! G.
***** Thanks, I am going to by a 13 piece metric deep impact socket set tomorrow. The biggest one on that rack is 32mm, so I hope 32mm is right. If not I will run over to Ace and buy a single, I had every size socket and tool known to man (well except a ball joint tool). I don't know what happened to all my 1/2 inch drive sockets, I guess they got lost from the moving company. While digging thru my tool boxes today I noticed a lot of my other Snap On tools are missing also. Thanks for fast reply.
Mark Mcgrath
No problem Mark! Hopefully the 32 in the rack will be the correct one. If any of my Snap-on tools were taken during a move- I'd be hunting all of the movers down with a vengeance. I hope they were just misplaced and turn up with more digging. G.
Mark Mcgrath It's 36mm
***** I couldn't remember the size Ed. Thanks for clarifying so others will be equipped! G.
I am not able to get my lower ball joint to separate from the control arm. I've beat it to death with a 2 lb hammer and it wont budge. I just went and bought a ball joint removal tool and it is too small to fit. Can you use jaw-style pullers to get lower ball joints to separate from the control arm? It's a 1998 Chevy Silverado that I'm working on too.
xr29fb32 If you mean the ball joint wont separate from the steering knuckle- you might want to try a 4 pound hammer. If you're trying to remove the ball joint from the control arm, you will need a ball joint press. I'm not sure of trying to use a jaw type puller in either scenario. G.
Can you remove the rivets of the upper ball joint before unbolting it from the knuckle? Does it make a difference which you do first?
I don't know of any reason you couldn't remove them first. I would first break the joint apart then loosely tighten the nut back up. G.
I have a 98 Chevy but my lower ball joint is flipped around and I had a hard time using the press.
Not familiar with that one. Hope you got it though. Take care, G.
Hey Ghostses, I need some help. I am doing the ball joints on my GF's 1995 Yukon. Your video has been immensely helpful so far. I am in the process of putting everything back together and I've noticed that the driver side does not have an axle nut washer and the passenger side did. I am guessing that whoever owned the truck before lost it on the driver's side???
+Timothy Haun
That's sure what it sounds like to me Timothy. I did find three different ones at O'reilly Auto that might work. Check them out to see for sure. Hope this helps, G.
www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Spindle!s!Axle+Washer/01234/C0362.oap?model=Yukon&vi=1166419&year=1995&make=GMC
Wow man, you're a life saver!
+Timothy Haun
Glad to help! Take care, G.
+ghostses Hey G, got it all back together. My string alignment was surprisingly accurate, but there is a problem. Whenever parking or cutting the wheel sharply every once in a while there is a "popping" sound. I double checked the work and everything is back as it should be. Could I have over tightened something?
+Timothy Haun
Hmm. My first thought would be a bad ball joint causing the popping. My truck was doing the same thing before I changed everything out- mostly in parking spots like you mention. I did change upper and lowers, the pitman arm, idler arm, and idler bracket all at the same time so it could have been any one of those causing the problem. You didn't mention all you changed out so I'm not sure in your case. I doubt you over tightened something. Another thing you might check is the hub bearings for play. Good luck, G.
Never heard of the 2 kicks off the right leg before, PMSL. Never knew about drive on rack either. I have a cunning plan for one of them now. Where did you get the lift?
LOL! I picked that up from my instructor years ago. He was talking about the importance of using stands and never trusting a jack. I guess it stuck with me since I didn't even register I said it...lol. He also went on to say that your mama would find you pinned under the car and would be heartbroken and stricken with grief- or something to that effect. Everything funny he said, he said it with a straight face...lol
My dad picked up the lift from somewhere. They're great for under carriage work, but can be a pain when taking off the wheels if you don't have the jacks that can be installed on them- which he doesn't.
This isn't the exact brand he has, but it pretty much looks like this one.
www.radliftsbygemini.com/product-sg7000.php
Take care, G.
Thanks G.
Sirus No problem! G.
This guy! Jeez
Hmm, what's the problem? G.
About how long did this whole job take? Both sides I mean. Got a 99 tahoe and all 4 ball joints in hand just being lazy and I'm nervous its gonna take me a day or two considering I'm in high school and work on borrowed time in our auto shop haha.
Christian, from setup to clean-up it probably took me about 1.5hrs. I don't know how much time you have in shop- but you could do one side one day, then the other on another day. Or ask the shop teacher if you can leave it on the rack till you're finished with it- and get a ride from a friend if it's not finished. With you not being experienced it really might take a couple of days to do it- but it is what it is. Try not to be lazy- just jump in and get it done...lol. Remember though- after you're finished, you will need to take it to a shop to get an alignment. Or if the school shop has an alignment rack- you could do it there. Let me know how it goes and good luck! Take care, G.
I need to saw off the bump stop brackets. The upper control arms keep hitting them and I think that's why the ball joints are no good.
I would check the ride height to make sure it's correct before cutting things off. You can probably find the measurements somewhere online- and how to take them. If it's not correct, you should be able to adjust the torsion bars to bring it into specs. Then get an alignment. Good luck, G.
Any rivets on the lower on just press it off?
No rivets on the lower, they just press out. Good luck, G.
Do you have part#s for the lower balljoints?
Sorry Jose, I don't. Good luck, G.
Good work sir. Are you left handed?
+Paul Davis
Thanks Paul. Not sure why I'm just seeing your comment. Yes, I am left handed. Take care, G.
+ghostses I thought so. You have a very artistic style to your work. BTW I am surrounded by lefties. Wife and daughters.
+Paul Davis
Thanks! That's cool, I'm sure they keep you on your toes...lol. I have tons in my extended family. G.
Is it safe to assume this would be the same for a 97 Tahoe?
While I can't say for sure Joaquin, I do believe that would be a safe assumption. Good luck, G.
I finished one side after about 3 hours last night, what a friggin pain in the ass...
It is! The second should go a bit faster. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses Yep, a lot faster. Man, wish I bought new control arms instead..lol Stupid rivets! I just finished up, also cleaned up a bunch of rust and treated it with a converter. If you ever decide to try that, Corroseal, easy peasy.. Thanks for makin the vid!
That's cool Mark! The first one always takes the longest since you have to figure out what works, what doesn't, tricks, etc. Yeah, the rivets suck for sure. Glad you got it though. Glad the video was useful. Take care, G.
How long in real time did this job take?
Doug, it probably took a couple of hours to do both sides- as a guess. Good luck, G.
I use a hammer to take out the lower ball joints like 6 wacks with a hammer they come out every time I do them.
That's cool! Take care, G.
You were using the Press wrong when you were installing the ball joints. When you installing it you have to use it the opposite not like that way you were using it.
Won't fit with the rack in the way. G.
Whats the air tool you used to chisel the rivets off called?
+Enrique McDonald
Enrique, it's called an air hammer. Hope this helps, G.
Its called an air chisel.
What size socket is that wheel hub axle nut
Sorry, I can't remember. It was 30 something mm is all I can recall. G.
What size was the axle nut?
Tee, I believe it was a 36mm. Good luck, G.
What size socket is that for that axl nut? Thanks!
I believe it's a 36mm Scott. Good luck, G.
ghostses thank you! I was driving down the road at a pretty good rate of speed when my upper balljoint let lose. I almost rolled my truck. I went up on two wheels after my tire folded under my truck. All I could smell was burnt rubber. Scared the hell out of me.
No problem! Glad you made it out OK. Take care, G.
2 things....1- You sound like Forest Gump, you should add a Jenny quote to your videos!!! 2- what brand Ball Joint tool do you use? ive noticed my Make looks alot like OTC which is what yours looks like
+paul erenberger
I've heard that before so I must to a degree...lol. The press was a friends and was purchased from Harbor Freight. Good luck, G.
+ghostses I hear the HF one isn't a bad press at all if your just smart with it. I have quite a bit of Mac and Snap-on tools, as I used to wrench before joining the Union Pipefitters, but I did have several HF tools that I can't complain about!
+paul erenberger
It's really not a bad press at all Paul- especially for what they cost. But, like you say- you have to be smart with it. I too have tons of Snap-on and some Mac tools from when I was wrenching decades ago. We had a couple of Snap-on shop supplied presses and even they were jacked from miss-use. Agreed! I've purchased a lot of HF items and am pleased with the majority of them. One could almost load up a box with HF tools for what a Snap-on Master kit costs. It's a great place for diy and shade tree folks that are on a budget. They have tons of specialty tools that you could normally only find on a tool truck, or maybe rent from an auto store but they're usually hammered...lol. Pretty cool place. Take care, G. G.
+ghostses one last thing, just wanted to say thanks for the videos you make and the reviews. They are helpful! Keep on keeping on man. Have a good one!
paul erenberger
Thanks Paul! G.
During 1st sentence he says 1989 I'm confused the video said 1998
I misspoke Travis- It's a 98. Take care, G.
Who did you order the parts from in this video haha
These came from O'rielly. They didn't last very long. I returned them, and paid the difference to get Moog. G.
98 or 89
98 Eldon. I think I said 89 somewhere- but that was wrong. Good luck, G.
Your right rear wheel is almost off the lift, I was very concerned!!
+Bobby Magee
Pretty keen eye there Bobby! It does look that way on the video, but it really was further on the rack than it appears. Take care, G.
Excellent information. Don't wear white or set your camera from auto-gain/iris to fixed/manual. Terrible camera angles.
Glad you liked the info you got for free. As for the rest- fuck you! How does that sit???
you said 89 in the opening.
+Justin C
That I did. I misspoke, it's a 98. Take care, G.
I wasn't growling, just pointing it out cause I'm bored lol.
+Justin C
No worries! Good luck, G.
You say 89.. And your discription says 98. Thanks.. Lol
Yeah, it's a 98. My past truck was an 89 so I got confused. Take care, G.
@@ghostses i caught that. Good vid tho. Thanks
@@thiseconomyisfailing4451 Good deal! G.
didn't use moog huh,you'll be sorry!!
+BAR 20 BBQ.
I was, every component failed in short order. I returned them for a complete refund and went Moog the second time around. So far so good. G.
i bet. i've been in the parts biz for over 30 yrs. have not seen any other suspension parts better than moog.
BAR 20 BBQ
Agreed, when I was doing suspension and steering about 25yrs ago- that's all I would use. I was hoping things changed since then, and I could save some money, but I was wrong..lol. G.
Watch your eyes......LOL!
+cadauctions31
LOL!! G.
I stopped listening after i heard "valuecraft"...
+south9563
I think it was Master Pro- but same same. The work is the same either way. I did have to do the job again since all of them failed inside of 5k miles. I got a full refund and went with Moog. G.
+ghostses omg, 5k miles? thats a record, ive seen it as low as 9k but not 5k, moog is definitley the way to go, it saves time and money. ACDelco also but only the "Proffesional" line, other than that, the "Daily driver" line is just as bad as Master Pro. Do you have any feedback on Duralast from autozone, i went Duralast on my idler arm and idler arm bracket. I did however go MOOG on pitman arm.
+south9563
Yeah, I was really surprised- and all highway miles too- no rough terrain. If I ever cheap out on anything now, it will be a direct bolt on something that can be changed again without major surgery. No, no opinion on Duralast. At least it's a little easier to change than the pitman if it goes south on you. G.
I was looking at Mevotech TTX line (TXK6477) for the lower ball joints, these are a little more money than Moog. Factory lower ball joints from the dealer are like 10 bucks more than Moog, but the upper ones are crazy expensive.
well i must say that looks fucking horrible. as a man with none of the tools or knowledge you have im sure i will wish i had sold my tahoe instead
LOL!! It's not fun by any stretch. Good luck with your job, G.
bad work
+Zulkifli Abraham How so? Your blanket statement leaves much to be desired. I checked for your video and couldn't find it. Send me the link so I can see what "good work" is. G.
Ouch!