1999 to 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD - upper and 4 bolt lower ball joint replacement -on truck
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2023
- How to drill out and remove those pesky 2WD "4 bolt" Chevy ball joints without taking the lower control arm off the truck!!!!!
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Thank you that was very helpful , Blessing to you and your family.
Three drill bits and two hours later… I won!
I use locktite threadlocker and torque to min spec . Tough job, just did a 1960 c10. I didnt drill but arms were off. Cut slots in rivet heads chisled them off then punched out was very difficult.
This is crazy after a while looking for the lower ball joints bc I didn’t think those were it. (Which it is) after looking down there my truck for several times 😂 My 04 Tahoe, or 07 classic didn’t have this. Only my 2000. Oh well I should be getting ready to get those rivets out.
Nice perfect video i replaced both control arms lower and upper back in 2020 but the lowers are shot again but dont want to throw them away easy replacement for another use later
Good my friend
I literally have beat my rivets to hell with air tools and everything you can imagine heat and all nothing will budge them I’ve already ordered a new control arm said screw it
Yup, I was close! But I won....
The secret is to support them with some kind of block. Otherwise, the suspension will absorb everything you throw at it.
Didn't occur to me, but I could have used a punch bit on my air chisel instead of whacking away at it with a hammer!
Dude I spent 6 hours trying to beat those pens out with a punch by brute force case I didn't have a drill with me when it went out. Man it went so much smoother when I finally gave up and walked to a store to buy a drill and bits. Spent the day in a parking lot waiting on the stupid drill to charge. Got home and used my corded drill to drill the other side out. Took me about 30 minutes to do the job. I live in north Texas, and had the problem in Denver Co... so I drove 11 hours home after being awake and frustrated for 2 days working on the first one... I did get one out by brute force with a 12 pound sledge I cut the handle down on... we call the hammer Thor. It is one of the hammers I use forging knives... I moved the other three about a quarter inch, but was give out after six hours... after drilling them I hit it twice with Thor and a punch and it fell out, but I bent two 1/2 spring steel punches in the first six hours trying to get them out. I knocked king pins out with those punches and didn't bend them.
What would a shop charge for something like this?
Yeah, my thoughts too. I COULD do it myself, have done way more PITA and labor intensive mechanic work over the years, like taking whole trucks apart and put back together to swap an entire frame that was damaged in a collision to a good one, but I was 20 something years old.... Now at 50, mechanic work like this is not appealing by any means. I do have better things to do, and pay the shop their $300-$500 and save my back and hands for something more worthy LOL. Much thanks though for the old guy making the video for all of us.
Never grease the gnurls. You want a dry fit. If you grease it, first it could start crooked and mess up the seat, second it can spin in the seat and mess it up when you are driving. Look how little metal you are relying on to keep that in there. You want a tight dry fit.
That was my gut feeling! Thanks.