I have changed a few ball joints in my time and was coming here to brush up. This video did not let me down at all. You couldn't ask for a more detailed and straight forward video. Great job man, thanks for taking the time to put this up. Liked and subscribed!!!
finally FOUND VIDEOS that i can actually stand watching!!! They get right to the JOB, not a lot of life story or advertising, just go right into ,,, 'step 1" and your camera is right on it, SO WE CAN SEE!!! no dizzy moving the camera/phone all over the place,,, like some , and mostly ,,, YOU GUYS KNOW YOUR STUFF! YEAH, ,,,,,,,AND few, sure glad i found your videos!!! THANK YOU SO!
Great video! I really like that you show how things need to be placed in the right direction, and that you are working on a rusty truck like my crusty POS! Now I just need to borrow a ball joint press.
Would it be easier to just replace the whole control arm? I don't want to have to mess with a ball joint press. Also, I have torsion keys on my truck and they are on the lowest setting (about 2" lift). Will I have to worry about the torsion bars if I replace the upper CA?
No need to use pliers on rubber boot, that will certainly cause tear on it you squeeze hard enough. Tiny bit of any silicon grease and will go in smooth.
Canadian cost -$40x2 for ball joints. The tool kit was $164 at Canadian tire. Video was excellent, would never have known about the small hole for direction without. Thanks
So My question is, How do I know if my control arms allow the press able ball joints and don't require the whole assembly ? Ive got and 05 Silverado as well
Great video, thanks! I have one question - it appears that the old ball joint used a steel lock nut but on the new ball joint you used a castle nut w/ cauter pin. Is there a reason why you didn't use a steel lock nut on the new one? Is there an advantage to one vs the other? Thanks!
You have to push the upper A-arm down to meet the steering knuckle when installing. Use a good sized prybar. The Torsion bar is whats pulling the lower A-arm & knuckle down. You can jack up the lower arm CAREFULLY to help the knuckle and upper A-arm meet up so you can get the nut started on the upper ball joint. Stay gold.
Wow, last time I did mine (same truck) I had to disconnect everything. Axel nut, tie rods etc..so for clarity..(on this model) if only doing the upper joints, all the extra disassembly is not required? Thx in advance
Great video, Must ask. Has that truck been underwater for a while. Geez the amount of rust. I live in the south and it amazes me how much rust, salt treating roads will cause on a vehicle.
This is a perfectly normal rust belt truck. It's actually in better shape than the one I'm currently working on. It sucks but it's all part of having 4 seasons 🥶😎😰🥵
Better have ball joint separator tool, propane torch, and 4lb. beater from harbor freight as well. I've rebuilt 3 of these front ends and not one has come apart that easy.
So my truck sounds bad when I turn the steering wheel, and I got told that the volt join is most likely the problem, does anyone know if that would fix it
Raise the vehicle and shake the tire by hand. See where there is play and determine if it's this or the steering linkage. If not play in either, could be a wheel bearing. That is usually more noticeable with vertical play at the tire. Hands at 12 and 6 o' clock and shake.
Yes jack up the front end, put a pry bar under the tire and lift up w the pry bar. If u have any type of sloppy movement up and down then you need to replace the upper or lower ball joint.It should feel tight w no slop when u are moving the pry bar up and down. Also grab the tire and move it left and right, if there is any slop in that then it’s gonna be your tire rod ends , or pitman arm. Check for play (slop)
My upper ball joint would not seperate. This job was a nightmare I ended up cutting the control arm off with an angle grinder then boring a hole through the middle of what was left of the ball joint with alot of titanium drill bits and carbide Dremel tips, took about 5 hours. It was literally welded onto the steering knuckle I've done quite a few suspension jobs on old rusty truck but this one was by far the worst never seen anything so stuck.
+@stevenphillips4536 The part in this video fits your application, and the install should be the same or similar. Buy this part on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Proper, even heating and penetrant and an air hammer rapping the A-arm around where the ball joint seats. Or, remove the A-Arm and use a hydraulic press. Stay gold.
look at the paint on that truck and its year... and look at all that rust on the frame and suspension. You got to care for your truck better than that... before it gets to that point start washing the underside.. if you see rust put some rust converter on it and a couple cans of cheapass spraypaint and its going to last you 6 months before you do it again.. i mean seriously im an autobody guy and this is just not acceptable considering its a 1-2 hr job every 6 months to a year
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
If the ball joint goes in crooked, stop immediately and light the vehicle on fire and file an insurance claim.
I have changed a few ball joints in my time and was coming here to brush up. This video did not let me down at all. You couldn't ask for a more detailed and straight forward video. Great job man, thanks for taking the time to put this up. Liked and subscribed!!!
finally FOUND VIDEOS that i can actually stand watching!!! They get right to the JOB, not a lot of life story or advertising, just
go right into ,,, 'step 1" and your camera is right on it, SO WE CAN SEE!!! no dizzy moving the camera/phone all over the place,,, like some ,
and mostly ,,, YOU GUYS KNOW YOUR STUFF! YEAH, ,,,,,,,AND few, sure glad i found your videos!!! THANK YOU SO!
I think these are the best "how to" videos on mechanic work.
Only video that covers ball joint direction
Did you really just throw that tire up there and it lined up🤯 Wow i’m Very impressed sir👏
Great video! I really like that you show how things need to be placed in the right direction, and that you are working on a rusty truck like my crusty POS! Now I just need to borrow a ball joint press.
Thanks you just bought my new blackhorse racing ball joint press and ready to tackle my Silverado upper ball joints. Wish me luck.
Thanks. Helped so much. It's guys like you that make things easier for guys like me, and Lady's too, because they also wrench.
Dame that truck been at the bottom of the ocean look at the rust
Would it be easier to just replace the whole control arm? I don't want to have to mess with a ball joint press. Also, I have torsion keys on my truck and they are on the lowest setting (about 2" lift). Will I have to worry about the torsion bars if I replace the upper CA?
Tip, use a Flare Crow Foot on a Torque Wrench to tighten to spec.
Nice job on this video exactly what I was looking for
This video almost makes me wonder if I can actually do this myself 🤣
These videos are very detailed. Subscribed
No need to use pliers on rubber boot, that will certainly cause tear on it you squeeze hard enough. Tiny bit of any silicon grease and will go in smooth.
Canadian cost -$40x2 for ball joints. The tool kit was $164 at Canadian tire. Video was excellent, would never have known about the small hole for direction without. Thanks
man I like the way you do business
This guy must've gotten tired of working at 1a Auto
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
What’s a vericle?
Best instructional ive seen yet, thank you
So My question is, How do I know if my control arms allow the press able ball joints and don't require the whole assembly ? Ive got and 05 Silverado as well
This video is really under rated holy s
+@fromfieldtofork934 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
When do you know to replace the whole control arm instead of just ball ?
Great video, thanks! I have one question - it appears that the old ball joint used a steel lock nut but on the new ball joint you used a castle nut w/ cauter pin. Is there a reason why you didn't use a steel lock nut on the new one? Is there an advantage to one vs the other? Thanks!
did you leave the torsion bar loaded? as long as you support the lower control arm you do not need to worry about the torsion bar being loaded?
You have to push the upper A-arm down to meet the steering knuckle when installing. Use a good sized prybar.
The Torsion bar is whats pulling the lower A-arm & knuckle down.
You can jack up the lower arm CAREFULLY to help the knuckle and upper A-arm meet up so you can get the nut started on the upper ball joint.
Stay gold.
Side tip with ball joints and tie rod ends run them down tight smack it with a hammer where it goes through the knuckle loosen and re-tighten.
I noticed the old ball joint apparently had grease in it, do you not put grease in the new one?
Wow, last time I did mine (same truck) I had to disconnect everything. Axel nut, tie rods etc..so for clarity..(on this model) if only doing the upper joints, all the extra disassembly is not required? Thx in advance
Would you need an alignment by just replacing this upper ball joint?
How about the grease fitting and greasing the ball joint?
Holy heck! How many years was that truck sitting at the bottom of the Atlantic for?
Any tips for removing a ball joint without a pickle fork?
How are you pressing balljoint up if your driving down? You have nothing on bottom forcing up?
Great video, Must ask. Has that truck been underwater for a while. Geez the amount of rust. I live in the south and it amazes me how much rust, salt treating roads will cause on a vehicle.
This is a perfectly normal rust belt truck. It's actually in better shape than the one I'm currently working on. It sucks but it's all part of having 4 seasons 🥶😎😰🥵
WOULD THIS BE THE SAME PROCEDURE ON A 2008 2500 DURAMAX DIESEL?
Thank you! This was an excellent video
Will this work on 2008 Silverado 1500?
Hi 1A friends. How about adding grease after the boot is in place? Seems necessary but not sure. Please advise. Thanks for all the good videos.
I was thinking the same thing.
Better have ball joint separator tool, propane torch, and 4lb. beater from harbor freight as well. I've rebuilt 3 of these front ends and not one has come apart that easy.
Changed ball joint now I can't get my tire on and my jack is all the way up 😄
Mine is stuck, no matter what I do. Any recommendations
try grinding off both sides of the old ball joint and then pound the remains through
Remember to send the ball joint in with a 3/4 impact
No grease fitting to the new balljoint?i have that on mine....2001 chevy tahoe LT Autoride.....
I have a 1999 gmc yukon 2wd they said I cant replace the upper ball joint that I need to replace the whole control arm
good job but why install non greasable.parts
So my truck sounds bad when I turn the steering wheel, and I got told that the volt join is most likely the problem, does anyone know if that would fix it
Raise the vehicle and shake the tire by hand. See where there is play and determine if it's this or the steering linkage. If not play in either, could be a wheel bearing. That is usually more noticeable with vertical play at the tire. Hands at 12 and 6 o' clock and shake.
Yes jack up the front end, put a pry bar under the tire and lift up w the pry bar. If u have any type of sloppy movement up and down then you need to replace the upper or lower ball joint.It should feel tight w no slop when u are moving the pry bar up and down. Also grab the tire and move it left and right, if there is any slop in that then it’s gonna be your tire rod ends , or pitman arm. Check for play (slop)
Subscribed! Thanks for heping!
You forgot the grease zero and grease the ball join
My upper ball joint would not seperate. This job was a nightmare I ended up cutting the control arm off with an angle grinder then boring a hole through the middle of what was left of the ball joint with alot of titanium drill bits and carbide Dremel tips, took about 5 hours. It was literally welded onto the steering knuckle I've done quite a few suspension jobs on old rusty truck but this one was by far the worst never seen anything so stuck.
wowzers great job!!!
Thank u so much great great video.I appreciate it
Great job
Can anyone tell me if this is the same for a 2003 Yukon XL 1500 ??
+@stevenphillips4536 The part in this video fits your application, and the install should be the same or similar. Buy this part on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
My ball joints didn’t come with a locking cotter pin on the end
Mine is seriously stuck....Even broke the C klamp 🥺any idea to loosen it?
Proper, even heating and penetrant and an air hammer rapping the A-arm around where the ball joint seats.
Or, remove the A-Arm and use a hydraulic press.
Stay gold.
Chevy makes great rust
What size is the upper b joint nut?
GM Trucks usually use 18mm and 21mm for their larger suspension/steering components.
Stay gold.
Did he really just use an impact on the 10 mm bolt 😂 mine was just snugged up
love that you skipped the boot installation that’s the only part i can’t do
You forgot to set the grease feeting and grease.
HEY GENIUS! U NEED TO TELL EVERYONE THERE'S A SNAP RING ON BOTTOM OF THE JOINT THAT HAS TO BE REMOVED B4 PRESSING OLD BALL JOINT OUT!!!!
+wade taylor Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
He does, 2:45
Was that truck sitting at the bottom of the ocean?
OR Canada lol.
Stay gold.
Truck needs a lot more than upper Ball joints
Thanks so much, great detail!
Great video but why such a cheap ass ball joint with no greaseable zerk?
30 minutes to change the balljoint...now going on 2 hours trying to get the mf***ing boot on it...any tips?anyone?
I don't have a veericle
Say vehicle again
Holy rust
look at the paint on that truck and its year... and look at all that rust on the frame and suspension. You got to care for your truck better than that... before it gets to that point start washing the underside.. if you see rust put some rust converter on it and a couple cans of cheapass spraypaint and its going to last you 6 months before you do it again.. i mean seriously im an autobody guy and this is just not acceptable considering its a 1-2 hr job every 6 months to a year
Apparently you must not live in the Rust Belt. That put Calcium Chloride on the roads. It eats cars up, even if you do was the underside.
Every truck here in Wisconsin looks like this. There is no avoiding the rust period.
There’s a little bit of truck in your rust sir…
What is with the gloves - are you afraid to get your hands dirty - shame on you boy