I did the same stuff to my 03, all Moog. Plus keys, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around, added a leaf spring to the rear corners. upper control arms w/ball joints, sway bar links, Timpkin hubs, and Falkin AT3s. Also found some 18" Chevy wheels from a '17 4x4. It corners like a race car, but the suspension is a little too stiff. Over all, I'm happy with the setup. Gives the truck a nice stance while looking almost stock.
I'm 60 now but I started working on my vehicles as a teenager but watching you have to cut that part off... well that reminds me why sometimes I just don't like working on my vehicles much anymore, that and at 60, it's much harder than it used to be. BTW, I have the 06 Sierra 4x4 crew cab and so far, I love it.
Great video that helped me make up my mind for my own truck. I’ve got an 06 and it still drives well for 271,000 but she’s getting a little floaty. Can’t wait to have that tight feeling back.
Thanks man. Just did my tie rods and my idler arm and bracket. Doing pitman arm right now. Heading back to parts store for the puller and a bigger wrench . I only got the pickle fork amd don't want to damage my gear box. Thanks for making this not so intimidating. Beautiful truck too!
Dude...perfect timing. Just about to have to do the same to a friend's cateye with 190k. My 2 cents see if you can find bilstein 5160s for the rear of your truck. They ride extremely well.
@@Vgorruso kryptonite and cognito make some good stuff. If your truck is leveled get some new upper control arms made for the leveled trucks. I’ve had the same cat eye for 16 yrs and have hated driving it since I leveled it. I just put 2k in the front end and it’s still has half a turn worth of play in the steering wheel and rides/drives like shit. I started researching. And I need a steering box to fix my steering. And I had asked many mechanics what I could do about the harsh ride in the front end and they just said nothing really. You get the upper control arms it will give you some travel back and make sure you have some good bump stops. I’m currently saving back up to buy upper arms and couple other things and just going to do it my fucking self.
Pro tip for anyone going to do this (specifically people on a tight budget) get quality parts like in this video… save up if you have to. I have an 06 GMC that I have had for years, long story short when I was younger I didn’t have much money and rebuilt my front end with the cheapest chinesium ebay had and everything was worn out worse than the stuff I took off within a month.
For people reading this comment…moog is NOT quality. They went severely downhill in the past 3 years along with QC. Get AC Delco, or quality aftermarket if you have mods like level, lift, etc. Otherwise, sound advice.
I dread this. I've done my tie rods and ball joints. That dam pitman is what I'm dreading. Looks like you had a tough time with yours. But you got it done. Saved yourself allot of money and you know it's done right. Nice truck bro. And nice video.
I replaced all of these parts, my upper and lower control arms, and the sway bar links and bushings and it was a shit kit. I think it was Detroit axle, I don’t recommend.. my point is it’s not that difficult if you have the proper tools, time and patience
^yup about 200-300 depending on tax and whatnot. This video really breaks it down well. I will say take it to get the alignment adjusted after. It will feel pretty straight but the smallest adjustment on camber can realllllllly eat your tires in the blink of an eye. Good luck friend!
This body style of Sierra has a very niche following, and I honestly give you respect for doing all that you’re doing to it. Can’t wait to see the finished product bruv 🙌🏻
Im about a month late here but maybe this will help someone else if you have the money buy this pitman arm puller Schley sch68800. You don't have to mess with taking the steering gear loose. if you dont want to spend $170 for the schley, NAPA sells a carlyle or K-D tools brand standard type puller that seems better than the cheap rental ones. its about $50 and has a lifetime warranty. i think it is Part #: SER 2289 also, a little heat from a mapp gas torch always helps if you have one.
Tip on the pitman arm if you got a new arm to put on angle grind that thing off there save you some trouble just use caution one of the most dangerous power tools out there if used improperly. Good luck.
Always have your wheels straight forward before tightening up all the joints. That way all of the dust covers are in their resting position and not twisted while driving straight, your dust covers will last Ionger.
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM HITING BUMPS MAKING THE SAME NOSIE ITS Driving me crazy, I have replaced wheelbaring hub assemblies in the front and the back. I have replaced sway bar links and bushings. I have replaced intern outer tie rods. I did not do the Pitman arm or the Pitman arm bracket or any of that Pitman arm stuff. At the time. My Pitman arm was still in good working order according to the mechanic. I haven't had it checked in about a few years though. I have put in probably close to $14000 in labor and repair. In my 2 thous and one GMC Sierra SLE extended gab 1500. With the 5.3 l V8. I have a flowmaster FX cat back to the exhaust system on it. Just like yours, it sounds amazing. Plus a recommendation for you if you want more horsepower, you want to replace your throttle body. With a expensive expensive unit. I did this and I gained 9 horsepower gain. I couldn't believe on how much I gained. Plus my K&N Air Intake System added 11 horses to my Engine. Plus I did a Diablo tune. Which really woke this truck up. Especially the shifting, it's so smooth. My horsepower gains are extraordinary The truck originally crank 285 horsepower. 325 foot-pounds of torque. Now the engine is at 382 Horsepower, I had it checked recently. And 408 torque. 0 to 60 and 5.1 seconds. Plus I did a stage one weight reduction. Plus it's a 2 wheel drive, so it weighs a little bit less. My question for you or anybody that can answer this. How can I improve my ride quality on this Truck???? I think I'm gonna have to replace the rest of the stuff in the front end that I didn't do yet. But will this really help? That's the question because the stuff that I already did is an improvement but it didn't seem to help as much as I thought it would and I also replace 4 shocks. Also I forgot the mention and new tires and all new brakes on the truck. Caliper's rotor's pads, front and back and all new brake lines and all new fuel lines and the new. Drive shaft and new rear differential gear backing plate bolts fluid change. Tune up plugs, wires 4 coil packs, new belts, new battery, new power, steering pump new lines, new alternator new tensioner, pulley new throttle position sensor new mass air flow sensor. New power windows driver passed your sidied. New fan motor that controls the climate inside the truck. That was making noise that had to be replaced and the switch that controls the fan speed was only working on low speed. So I had to replace that also. Plus CD player kicked a bucket. I put an after market DVD touchscreen in. Sorry. For such the long message but I wanted you to get a general idea on how much I have invested in this truck. Plus it cost me $3000 to fix the frame. Truck is still not done yet. It is a nightmare but I love the truck so much. I won't get rid of it. I won't stop until it drives like a new truck.
found your channel last year when i was waiting for my LT TB to be delivered, still here. good content. woulda like to see the Toyo go safari but, still here.
Lookin at my 233k Mile 2500 on original joints. My steering input is a suggestion at this point. Oh well gonna do what you did this weekend. Going moog as well. After that gonna do control arms and sway bar links. Thanks for the video. Also love my bilsteins.
I got 337,000 miles on my 2004 Z71 Tahoe 4x4 and seeing this video convinced me I need to redo the front suspension on my Tahoe but I just can't stomach throwing $1K into a vehicle I gave only $3K for that is worth what I paid for it but some says it is worth more so I might have to throw a lift on it which will take care of the worn out parts...I also like those wheels you got and considering some for my Tahoe if I did throw money at it..great video either way!
Just think, that’s cheaper than 2 payments on a brand new vehicle & you still wouldn’t own it after that, and would still have the same maintenance to do. It’s paid for. Doing good maintenance like this just makes sure it keeps earning its paycheck.
Great job. Thanks for sharing. Planning on doing my 07 Silverado 2500 HD and this video really helped me figure out how to do it and what tools I need. Never done tie rod ends before. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Got a 99 silverado ext cab z71i did everything .went from 35s to 33s .Southern truck so everything came apart pretty good...bump stops where gone upper and lower .broke both cv axles. Was binding inn4wd ..I cranked my torsion bars back down a bit noticed they are wore out...I didn't have to take my gear box off tho .I used a long bar and it popped right off...last week doing my new axles in .noticed my year old ball joints are toast. Both sides. Both inner tie rods are toast ..all this I did a year ago .and had it aligned .I thought for 44 bucks to buy the upper a arm with ball joint all in it was a good idea ...maybe if it had a f%$king grease fitting in it...of course it's gonna be junk a year later .,I'm just gonna buy the offset control arms for it..I don't wanna be replacing this stuff every year .chasing the wheel sucks ..it's not wearing tires tho witch is weird. .gotta spend some money to look cool tho
I believe the rear wheels and tires need to be in alignment and be properly verified in alignment. An old school mechanic said folks do not realize is the front and back need it too. Even though some vehicles that are not vintage have no alignment adjustments on the rear of the vehicle.Thats why you believe you notice it more on your truck. 😅🎉🎉
my 06 just threw a wheel bearing, had me consider trading it in, but I quickly backed out of the deal. It was my dads truck. Ima build it back up and run the wheels off it again haha
It rides smoother because it has that stayblelizer sway bar witch makes the rear end a lot stiffer than a regular 2 wheel drive truck it's supposed to take the bounce bouncing and swaying that you had from the old particular coilover springs and shocks on the old schools and had a more smooth ride and all actuality it really makes the truck right a lot rougher than it would with the old style setup so the added weight makes it right smoother
Honestly have to do the same thing to my old 01 Silverado, has almost 300k miles and still OEM steering components. You'll have to take care of your rear driveshaft u-joints soon too bud. Those go bad at about 100k on these trucks. Looking forward to more content on this ol girl. Keep it up.
@@tylerf6528 I would have except they were going for almost 4k when my last 4L60E went out and doing the 4L65E upgrade only cost me about 2.5k which included a 3500 rpm stall converter by B&M. The other 8 I had go out on me were all factory rebuilds covered under warranty. Think I got about 20k out of each, maybe less. Putting about 311hp to the ground out of some building up of my 5.3L.
Man my wife bought a 2003 1500 had 168.000 miles, the gentleman that had it bought it NEW.... changed everything but the shocks, so it's much more ( GOODER NOW)....
That weird pipe wrench is called a spud wrench. And yeah they are very handy! Great video man. I did my front end in Moog parts and they have beed great.
@@adubbz23 Yeah I know the wrench you're talking about but this is a Reed 02111 Spud Wrench with a smooth off set jaw. Been using them for over 20 years.
You forgot to add wheel hubs which trust me they go out around 150 to 200,000 miles and swaybar end links . Also guys take your tail lights out and pressure wash the best you can wear the wheel wells rust It accumulate with junk salt and everything else and they rust from the inside out like the rocker panels do on those trucks. So some preventative maintenance will save you a bad side and it doesn’t matter what kind of truck what year of truck except for the Ford aluminum bed sides? Trust me on this I thought of doing that after I saw a 2011 with a rusted bedside and the day I was going to do it I noticed a bubble in my paint, so I pulled out the tail light shine my light in there and there was 2 inches of junk sitting where those two pieces of metal meet where those rust out . I sprayed it off and I could literally see the rust so I got it out the best I could and sprayed some rust inhibitor on it and it hasn’t been rusting anymore. . I figured I would share that with you guys but for real don’t forget to put hubs on it because they will go out
Replaced most of my front end not long ago...left out coil springs...in the next 2 months I took my truck for an alignment to 3 different shops every one told me I needed new upper control arms and one lower but still offered to align the truck...With one eyebrow raised i inform the 3rd shop's technician that the parts recommended were installed new a month earlier and 2 other shops made the same recommendation. He sheepishly tells me I installed the bolts wrong on those parts and that the alignment would not hold. To the "Pros" out there. How fucking hard is it to say... "These parts look new. Did you install them yourself? Oh yeah? Well you messed up here and here. I can fix that for a small fee"
@@Irishcream216 not sure, i did the upgrade on mine, i already run 20’s but i can only run certain 17’s so i would say offset 17’s or bigger unless you run hella spacers. definitely worth the upgrade…
@@joshuagreen9691 Don't you usually have to upgrade the master cylinder or brake booster or something when you go with a big brake kit? How does the factory system work with the bigger calipers?
@@joshuagreen9691I have a 02’ chevy with a 2020 chevy brake setup. Feels much better than my 07-13 brake setup. You only have to put in washers to space the calipers away, so the rotor doesn’t rub on the caliper.
I think moog are hit or miss I heard people say really good things about them and others say bad things about them, Personally I just did balljoints on my truck and jacked it up yesterday to make sure everything was good and they upper balljoints are shot already and they’re only 5 months old so I hope this best with yours.
I remove the pitman arm with a Pitman tool when it got tight you take a hammer and wrapped in or get a big pin to reach up in there and then wrap the pin real quick that'll jar of the pitman arm loose a little and then on Titan it some more
Just did a 2" lifted front strut assembly on my 2011 z71 suburban with about 130k on her. Everything was worn out. I replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends with all moog problem solvers. Installed new rack and pinion as well as sway bar bushings and the duralast gold line end links which are very nice. Was quite the job but rides good and feels tight. I know what you mean about being brain dead about 3 am after working on your rig for 12 hours. Riding 17s on studded duratrac 33's. Feels good knowing that everything is new under there. Not just a for looks upgrade anymore, its a whole front end component and performance overhaul! Nicely done man. Hows the rubbing with 35's on stock 20's? Are they a 12.5 wide? Thinking about going with 285/70/18 on my stocks for this summer which equates to a 34x11.5.
Looks like everything he bought was MOOG, I would assume if he still had the truck, everything is fine. I’ve trusted MOOG for years on all my hard parts.
@@thelizardking8525 my last suspension upgrade was all moog parts for my 01 ford focus, springs were instantly shot. id say moog is better on the solid metal parts, ie: no ball joints springs etc.
I have them also. But, I installed new torsion keys in the front and added leaf springs in the rear... So it's really really stiff.... Which I could find an easy fix.
@@52RedHouse I had Bilstein 5100 on my previous truck (2013 Sierra) and it was really stiff. I put Bilstein 4600 on my current 2007 Cateye and it is a lot better ride, IMO. It rides really smooth.
I got my pitman arm puller from Hobo Freight but I grindered the outside tips of the jaws to a slight taper to use on the other end of the pitman arm and idler arm from the steering linkage bar
Moog is pretty good stuff. But honestly I've had better luck with mevotech. My 05 Tahoe sits on all mevotech parts. Ttx is the hd version except hubs. Those are titan xf. I've beat these parts just to check for a breaking point. Still no failures after 75000 miles.
Just get a loaded upper and lower control arm and everything else. It’ll save you some effort. I got a loaded upper control arm and wound up having to press the lower control arm bushings in there but you can get those already pressed down and loaded with a ball joint.
My Silverado has 495,000 miles, we last rebuilt the front end in 2010 using Moog parts, is this Kryptonite brand the top of the line? About to rebuild it again this year to last the next decade lolz
Did all of this and some more front-end work a couple of years ago for my 07 classic. I took it for an alignment and spent a few thousand more due to the mechanic being horrified and slightly impressed at what was going on and how some of the parts fit. Moral of the story, don’t trust every auto part website.
to get the pitman arm off you don't need to remove or loosen the the Gear box just grind a notch in that Meat Bracket right under the Pitman shaft and then the Puller Bolt will clear and put the idler arm on the Bracket Hanger First before you install it
just got a 04 sierra with the front lifted. i dont know what was replaced to get it lifted but i dont want it lifted, what do i need to get it back to normal height?
Hey guys great videos enjoy the honesty and sweat equity, if you want a great upgrade to the front end of this generation of gm truck ie pre 2007 with a recirculating ball front end check out cognito motorspots . I believe there a California based aftermarket shop , what they do sell is a weld on kit for both pitman arm and idler arm of this gen truck . What the kit does is double capture both pitmaand idler arms reducing wear , these trucks had a light duty front end and the cognito braces work ! I have installed them on my 01 stepside !
Did you buy all the front end suspension parts in a kit for that truck or did you buy each part individually ? I've got to do this same repair on my '06 GMC Z71.
I have a 04 sierra that I drop to a 5/8 stance. And did a complete rebuild on the frontend. And I agree auto parts stores carry crap specialty tools. Inner tierod tool
Love this video you dropped in just in time ive been procrastinating on my 07 classic cateye but just need get it done. My whole front end is shot and really just undrivable at this point and leaking powesterring bad
This video dropped with good timing. My 2001 F-150 is going to need some work done to the steering as there is some play in it. Looking at the components, I suspect that the idler arm just needs to be replaced and the other components are still good, but I still need to have someone turn the steering wheel while I look at the components to confirm.
When I replace my idler arm do I have to replace the idler arm bracket because I've rebuilt everything on my front end and the steering is still loose?
If I replace the steering box at the same time do I have to go through the madness with the pitman arm? Or is removing it first for clearance? I have a 1500 now but my 2500hd made me tap out on that replacement…after hourrrss and multiple pitman arm removers
How was your steering gear box? I have an 04 Silverado crew cab z71 that needs all that done plus a new gear box gonna be way nicer just haven’t had time to get the parts what did that cost you what you did ?
Did the pitman and idler arm take any side to side play out of the wheel? Or is that entirely from the steering gear box? I have 295k on my 01 replaced the wheel bearings and ball joints and tie rod ends but didn’t do the idler and pitman arm.
I have a 16 Silverado with 24” x 10” snowflakes wrapped in 12.50” x 33 mts with a leveling kit and they only rub on the sway bar slightly. But my wheels are flush under the wheel well. I had 22x12 wide rims on 12.50” wide 33” mts and they rubbed bad on the rear part of the fender well. I couldn’t fully lock the steering wheel in reverse. So In a nut shell. If you have wider than 10” rims yes they will rub.
I'm waiting on kryptonite as well. Depressing hearing that from you. I'll probably end up doing the same thing. But yeah thanks i am about to tackle the same project on my 06 with 245,705 on her.
This is proof that if you don't have all the tools, Jack stands, secondary MacGyver tools available on a nice garage floor, pay the dude that does... Well at least for the idler and pitman because those both on multiple years of Chevy have been a real pain...
I did the same stuff to my 03, all Moog. Plus keys, Bilstein 5100 shocks all around, added a leaf spring to the rear corners. upper control arms w/ball joints, sway bar links, Timpkin hubs, and Falkin AT3s. Also found some 18" Chevy wheels from a '17 4x4. It corners like a race car, but the suspension is a little too stiff. Over all, I'm happy with the setup. Gives the truck a nice stance while looking almost stock.
A little tip for the pitman arm puller. Tighten puller, bag w hammer. Re-tighten puller, bang w hammer. Etc. Etc. It's how my Dad taught me.
I'm 60 now but I started working on my vehicles as a teenager but watching you have to cut that part off... well that reminds me why sometimes I just don't like working on my vehicles much anymore, that and at 60, it's much harder than it used to be. BTW, I have the 06 Sierra 4x4 crew cab and so far, I love it.
I'm 57 and still work on my own, although it is a little harder on the body these days.
@@patriotridge yes, lol, I hear you there, I'm 61 now.
Great video that helped me make up my mind for my own truck. I’ve got an 06 and it still drives well for 271,000 but she’s getting a little floaty. Can’t wait to have that tight feeling back.
260k in mine and I'm in the same spot. can't wait to finally fix this shit after putting off for so long.
that’s what she said
Thats wat she said 😂😂
Thanks man. Just did my tie rods and my idler arm and bracket. Doing pitman arm right now. Heading back to parts store for the puller and a bigger wrench . I only got the pickle fork amd don't want to damage my gear box. Thanks for making this not so intimidating. Beautiful truck too!
Dude...perfect timing. Just about to have to do the same to a friend's cateye with 190k. My 2 cents see if you can find bilstein 5160s for the rear of your truck. They ride extremely well.
Boutta do my 06 cateye with 190k lol
Any good part companies to get these parts from? Or just a good front end kit to buy?
@@Vgorruso kryptonite and cognito make some good stuff. If your truck is leveled get some new upper control arms made for the leveled trucks. I’ve had the same cat eye for 16 yrs and have hated driving it since I leveled it. I just put 2k in the front end and it’s still has half a turn worth of play in the steering wheel and rides/drives like shit. I started researching. And I need a steering box to fix my steering. And I had asked many mechanics what I could do about the harsh ride in the front end and they just said nothing really. You get the upper control arms it will give you some travel back and make sure you have some good bump stops. I’m currently saving back up to buy upper arms and couple other things and just going to do it my fucking self.
@@apbt067 I have a lift kit on my truck and let me tell you it’s very sensitive to small bumps…
@@apbt067 i
Pro tip for anyone going to do this (specifically people on a tight budget) get quality parts like in this video… save up if you have to. I have an 06 GMC that I have had for years, long story short when I was younger I didn’t have much money and rebuilt my front end with the cheapest chinesium ebay had and everything was worn out worse than the stuff I took off within a month.
For people reading this comment…moog is NOT quality. They went severely downhill in the past 3 years along with QC. Get AC Delco, or quality aftermarket if you have mods like level, lift, etc. Otherwise, sound advice.
@@wesleysims3819I’m planning to rebuild my 2005 Silverado and I already have moog parts , I wish I knew that before I bought the parts
Haa Hahaa stuff that mate so sorry to hear fxxkn Chinese shit😡👎🏼
@@benjaminibanez4057ur fine man lll there good
I dread this. I've done my tie rods and ball joints. That dam pitman is what I'm dreading. Looks like you had a tough time with yours. But you got it done. Saved yourself allot of money and you know it's done right. Nice truck bro. And nice video.
I replaced all of these parts, my upper and lower control arms, and the sway bar links and bushings and it was a shit kit. I think it was Detroit axle, I don’t recommend.. my point is it’s not that difficult if you have the proper tools, time and patience
I really like the Cognito pitman and idler arm steering brace kit for these trucks; I have one for my 2006 GMC yukon 4x4.
How much does all that usually run for?
@@DrewEnglehart its like 280 i believe
^yup about 200-300 depending on tax and whatnot. This video really breaks it down well. I will say take it to get the alignment adjusted after. It will feel pretty straight but the smallest adjustment on camber can realllllllly eat your tires in the blink of an eye. Good luck friend!
I have an older Yukon, his instructions were extremely helpful.
A little heat on the pitman arm with a small propane torch was the trick for mine.
This body style of Sierra has a very niche following, and I honestly give you respect for doing all that you’re doing to it. Can’t wait to see the finished product bruv 🙌🏻
GMT800 is one of the most beloved trucks. Not niche at all.
@@BrownishCrayonish I’m referring to the front ends from 03-06, not the body style in general
@@kev_lsn7042 yeah i hardly see them. see more cateyes more than anything
@@TNAWWE my point exactly
@@TNAWWEI might be biased as a cateye owner, but these sierras look really dated in comparison.
You should also do your sway bar links and bushing. They've really made my ride solid
Im about a month late here but maybe this will help someone else
if you have the money buy this pitman arm puller Schley sch68800. You don't have to mess with taking the steering gear loose.
if you dont want to spend $170 for the schley, NAPA sells a carlyle or K-D tools brand standard type puller that seems better than the cheap rental ones. its about $50 and has a lifetime warranty. i think it is Part #: SER 2289
also, a little heat from a mapp gas torch always helps if you have one.
Tip on the pitman arm if you got a new arm to put on angle grind that thing off there save you some trouble just use caution one of the most dangerous power tools out there if used improperly. Good luck.
Yup I about cut my face in half with angle grinder .. mf bounced off a pole I was sanding like and bam cut my safety glasses in half with big cut
the best how to i have seen even without a lift
This video was for me😂I bought my 2003 a year ago and didn’t know anything about about trucks etc so I had maxed keys, wides, spacers, lift all stock
Always have your wheels straight forward before tightening up all the joints. That way all of the dust covers are in their resting position and not twisted while driving straight, your dust covers will last Ionger.
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM HITING BUMPS MAKING THE SAME NOSIE ITS Driving me crazy, I have replaced wheelbaring hub assemblies in the front and the back. I have replaced sway bar links and bushings. I have replaced intern outer tie rods. I did not do the Pitman arm or the Pitman arm bracket or any of that Pitman arm stuff. At the time. My Pitman arm was still in good working order according to the mechanic. I haven't had it checked in about a few years though. I have put in probably close to $14000 in labor and repair. In my 2 thous and one GMC Sierra SLE extended gab 1500. With the 5.3 l V8. I have a flowmaster FX cat back to the exhaust system on it. Just like yours, it sounds amazing. Plus a recommendation for you if you want more horsepower, you want to replace your throttle body. With a expensive expensive unit. I did this and I gained 9 horsepower gain. I couldn't believe on how much I gained. Plus my K&N Air Intake System added 11 horses to my Engine. Plus I did a Diablo tune. Which really woke this truck up. Especially the shifting, it's so smooth. My horsepower gains are extraordinary The truck originally crank 285 horsepower. 325 foot-pounds of torque. Now the engine is at 382 Horsepower, I had it checked recently. And 408 torque. 0 to 60 and 5.1 seconds. Plus I did a stage one weight reduction. Plus it's a 2 wheel drive, so it weighs a little bit less. My question for you or anybody that can answer this. How can I improve my ride quality on this Truck???? I think I'm gonna have to replace the rest of the stuff in the front end that I didn't do yet. But will this really help? That's the question because the stuff that I already did is an improvement but it didn't seem to help as much as I thought it would and I also replace 4 shocks. Also I forgot the mention and new tires and all new brakes on the truck. Caliper's rotor's pads, front and back and all new brake lines and all new fuel lines and the new. Drive shaft and new rear differential gear backing plate bolts fluid change. Tune up plugs, wires 4 coil packs, new belts, new battery, new power, steering pump new lines, new alternator new tensioner, pulley new throttle position sensor new mass air flow sensor. New power windows driver passed your sidied. New fan motor that controls the climate inside the truck. That was making noise that had to be replaced and the switch that controls the fan speed was only working on low speed. So I had to replace that also. Plus CD player kicked a bucket. I put an after market DVD touchscreen in. Sorry.
For such the long message but I wanted you to get a general idea on how much I have invested in this truck. Plus it cost me $3000 to fix the frame. Truck is still not done yet. It is a nightmare but I love the truck so much. I won't get rid of it. I won't stop until it drives like a new truck.
found your channel last year when i was waiting for my LT TB to be delivered, still here. good content. woulda like to see the Toyo go safari but, still here.
Your killing it as always with the installation videos, awesome!!! 🔥🔥
Lookin at my 233k Mile 2500 on original joints. My steering input is a suggestion at this point. Oh well gonna do what you did this weekend. Going moog as well. After that gonna do control arms and sway bar links. Thanks for the video. Also love my bilsteins.
I got 337,000 miles on my 2004 Z71 Tahoe 4x4 and seeing this video convinced me I need to redo the front suspension on my Tahoe but I just can't stomach throwing $1K into a vehicle I gave only $3K for that is worth what I paid for it but some says it is worth more so I might have to throw a lift on it which will take care of the worn out parts...I also like those wheels you got and considering some for my Tahoe if I did throw money at it..great video either way!
Just think, that’s cheaper than 2 payments on a brand new vehicle & you still wouldn’t own it after that, and would still have the same maintenance to do. It’s paid for. Doing good maintenance like this just makes sure it keeps earning its paycheck.
I'm ready at all times to see the lmfscrew RUclips pop down for new videos
Just got a MOOG front end rebuild kit for my 2002 Tacoma put on about a week ago and got a fresh alignment rides awesome
Hows yours truck putting up since the installations.?
Great job. Thanks for sharing. Planning on doing my 07 Silverado 2500 HD and this video really helped me figure out how to do it and what tools I need. Never done tie rod ends before. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Got a 99 silverado ext cab z71i did everything .went from 35s to 33s .Southern truck so everything came apart pretty good...bump stops where gone upper and lower .broke both cv axles. Was binding inn4wd ..I cranked my torsion bars back down a bit noticed they are wore out...I didn't have to take my gear box off tho .I used a long bar and it popped right off...last week doing my new axles in .noticed my year old ball joints are toast. Both sides. Both inner tie rods are toast ..all this I did a year ago .and had it aligned .I thought for 44 bucks to buy the upper a arm with ball joint all in it was a good idea ...maybe if it had a f%$king grease fitting in it...of course it's gonna be junk a year later .,I'm just gonna buy the offset control arms for it..I don't wanna be replacing this stuff every year .chasing the wheel sucks ..it's not wearing tires tho witch is weird. .gotta spend some money to look cool tho
I believe the rear wheels and tires need to be in alignment and be properly verified in alignment. An old school mechanic said folks do not realize is the front and back need it too. Even though some vehicles that are not vintage have no alignment adjustments on the rear of the vehicle.Thats why you believe you notice it more on your truck. 😅🎉🎉
my 06 just threw a wheel bearing, had me consider trading it in, but I quickly backed out of the deal. It was my dads truck. Ima build it back up and run the wheels off it again haha
It rides smoother because it has that stayblelizer sway bar witch makes the rear end a lot stiffer than a regular 2 wheel drive truck it's supposed to take the bounce bouncing and swaying that you had from the old particular coilover springs and shocks on the old schools and had a more smooth ride and all actuality it really makes the truck right a lot rougher than it would with the old style setup so the added weight makes it right smoother
Carter or cotter pin don't matter lol I was just messin with you on last video. Love the videos🤙
What do you do for your day job?
Honestly have to do the same thing to my old 01 Silverado, has almost 300k miles and still OEM steering components. You'll have to take care of your rear driveshaft u-joints soon too bud. Those go bad at about 100k on these trucks. Looking forward to more content on this ol girl. Keep it up.
Same here I have 313,238 miles on my 02 and every thing is still stock
@@r39skully82 How many 4L60E transmissions have you gone through? Mine has chewed up 9 of them so far. 😅
@@TheWolfMatt Just go 4l80e at that point
@@tylerf6528 I would have except they were going for almost 4k when my last 4L60E went out and doing the 4L65E upgrade only cost me about 2.5k which included a 3500 rpm stall converter by B&M. The other 8 I had go out on me were all factory rebuilds covered under warranty. Think I got about 20k out of each, maybe less. Putting about 311hp to the ground out of some building up of my 5.3L.
i’m ready for headlights and tailights and some more visual mods love this truck so much
It already has aftermarket headlights
Man my wife bought a 2003 1500 had 168.000 miles, the gentleman that had it bought it NEW.... changed everything but the shocks, so it's much more ( GOODER NOW)....
That weird pipe wrench is called a spud wrench. And yeah they are very handy! Great video man. I did my front end in Moog parts and they have beed great.
It's an Offset pipe wrench a spud wrench has a sharp end like a set tool
@@adubbz23 Yeah I know the wrench you're talking about but this is a Reed 02111 Spud Wrench with a smooth off set jaw. Been using them for over 20 years.
@@DaveOctoYou're correct. This tool is a spud wrench, and was specifically made originally by Ridgid to repair flush o meter vavles.
You forgot to add wheel hubs which trust me they go out around 150 to 200,000 miles and swaybar end links . Also guys take your tail lights out and pressure wash the best you can wear the wheel wells rust It accumulate with junk salt and everything else and they rust from the inside out like the rocker panels do on those trucks. So some preventative maintenance will save you a bad side and it doesn’t matter what kind of truck what year of truck except for the Ford aluminum bed sides? Trust me on this I thought of doing that after I saw a 2011 with a rusted bedside and the day I was going to do it I noticed a bubble in my paint, so I pulled out the tail light shine my light in there and there was 2 inches of junk sitting where those two pieces of metal meet where those rust out . I sprayed it off and I could literally see the rust so I got it out the best I could and sprayed some rust inhibitor on it and it hasn’t been rusting anymore. . I figured I would share that with you guys but for real don’t forget to put hubs on it because they will go out
Replaced most of my front end not long ago...left out coil springs...in the next 2 months I took my truck for an alignment to 3 different shops every one told me I needed new upper control arms and one lower but still offered to align the truck...With one eyebrow raised i inform the 3rd shop's technician that the parts recommended were installed new a month earlier and 2 other shops made the same recommendation. He sheepishly tells me I installed the bolts wrong on those parts and that the alignment would not hold.
To the "Pros" out there. How fucking hard is it to say...
"These parts look new. Did you install them yourself? Oh yeah? Well you messed up here and here. I can fix that for a small fee"
While you’re in the front end you should do the bigger brake upgrade (07-13 calipers, rotors, pads) it helps alot i did it on my 06 1500.
Don't the 19 and up brakes also fit with bigger wheels?
@@Irishcream216 not sure, i did the upgrade on mine, i already run 20’s but i can only run certain 17’s so i would say offset 17’s or bigger unless you run hella spacers. definitely worth the upgrade…
@@joshuagreen9691 Don't you usually have to upgrade the master cylinder or brake booster or something when you go with a big brake kit? How does the factory system work with the bigger calipers?
@@axtaxt2964 not required but im sure it would help.
@@joshuagreen9691I have a 02’ chevy with a 2020 chevy brake setup. Feels much better than my 07-13 brake setup. You only have to put in washers to space the calipers away, so the rotor doesn’t rub on the caliper.
I think moog are hit or miss I heard people say really good things about them and others say bad things about them, Personally I just did balljoints on my truck and jacked it up yesterday to make sure everything was good and they upper balljoints are shot already and they’re only 5 months old so I hope this best with yours.
I remove the pitman arm with a Pitman tool when it got tight you take a hammer and wrapped in or get a big pin to reach up in there and then wrap the pin real quick that'll jar of the pitman arm loose a little and then on Titan it some more
Just did a 2" lifted front strut assembly on my 2011 z71 suburban with about 130k on her. Everything was worn out. I replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends with all moog problem solvers. Installed new rack and pinion as well as sway bar bushings and the duralast gold line end links which are very nice. Was quite the job but rides good and feels tight. I know what you mean about being brain dead about 3 am after working on your rig for 12 hours. Riding 17s on studded duratrac 33's. Feels good knowing that everything is new under there. Not just a for looks upgrade anymore, its a whole front end component and performance overhaul! Nicely done man. Hows the rubbing with 35's on stock 20's? Are they a 12.5 wide? Thinking about going with 285/70/18 on my stocks for this summer which equates to a 34x11.5.
How are these parts holding off? Do you still recommend them? A current review of it would be nice.
Looks like everything he bought was MOOG, I would assume if he still had the truck, everything is fine. I’ve trusted MOOG for years on all my hard parts.
I’ve been using moog for the past 25 years for my customers. IMO moog is the best of the best I don’t trust any other brand!
@@thelizardking8525 my last suspension upgrade was all moog parts for my 01 ford focus, springs were instantly shot. id say moog is better on the solid metal parts, ie: no ball joints springs etc.
My 2. Had the same issue. Realized it had replaced by the wrong arm needed a gear box anyway.
my 06 suburban just hit 196k im sure mine needs them. good video!
Bilstein 5100 series only way to go. Had them on my 2001 Tahoe. Ride is so great
I have them also. But, I installed new torsion keys in the front and added leaf springs in the rear... So it's really really stiff.... Which I could find an easy fix.
@@52RedHouse I had Bilstein 5100 on my previous truck (2013 Sierra) and it was really stiff. I put Bilstein 4600 on my current 2007 Cateye and it is a lot better ride, IMO. It rides really smooth.
I got my pitman arm puller from Hobo Freight but I grindered the outside tips of the jaws to a slight taper to use on the other end of the pitman arm and idler arm from the steering linkage bar
I'm just glad I'm not the only one that got my ass whipped swapping the pitman. Nightmares of that thing
Your videos are very good. You really are an enterprising and knowledgeable yet you look very young. I subscribed.
What did you say I couldn’t hear you cause of those roaring ass tires 😂 just kidding 👊🏼
Love this build because my first truck was an 2004 GMC Sierra single cab short box
Great job. Thx for the vid.. nice looking truck.
Moog is pretty good stuff. But honestly I've had better luck with mevotech. My 05 Tahoe sits on all mevotech parts. Ttx is the hd version except hubs. Those are titan xf. I've beat these parts just to check for a breaking point. Still no failures after 75000 miles.
Just get a loaded upper and lower control arm and everything else. It’ll save you some effort. I got a loaded upper control arm and wound up having to press the lower control arm bushings in there but you can get those already pressed down and loaded with a ball joint.
How have the parts been holding up ?
Should do a video on cognito pitman/idler brace kits. great product
My Silverado has 495,000 miles, we last rebuilt the front end in 2010 using Moog parts, is this Kryptonite brand the top of the line? About to rebuild it again this year to last the next decade lolz
Did all of this and some more front-end work a couple of years ago for my 07 classic. I took it for an alignment and spent a few thousand more due to the mechanic being horrified and slightly impressed at what was going on and how some of the parts fit. Moral of the story, don’t trust every auto part website.
to get the pitman arm off you don't need to remove or loosen the the Gear box just grind a notch in that Meat Bracket right under the Pitman shaft and then the Puller Bolt will clear and put the idler arm on the Bracket Hanger First before you install it
just got a 04 sierra with the front lifted. i dont know what was replaced to get it lifted but i dont want it lifted, what do i need to get it back to normal height?
Hey guys great videos enjoy the honesty and sweat equity, if you want a great upgrade to the front end of this generation of gm truck ie pre 2007 with a recirculating ball front end check out cognito motorspots . I believe there a California based aftermarket shop , what they do sell is a weld on kit for both pitman arm and idler arm of this gen truck . What the kit does is double capture both pitmaand idler arms reducing wear , these trucks had a light duty front end and the cognito braces work ! I have installed them on my 01 stepside !
I just bought one 121k miles looking to upgrade it like you 😊
Have you run into the P0131 code or the P0300 codes on your truck? Another great video!
could you place a link to get all the parts you got ?
Moog parts
I did all these components when I did a lift on my 96 gmc, and let me tell you I had the same trouble with the pitman arm as you
Yes a load or pulling a trailer will make your truck quiet down and ride softer
Moog are some of the best factory replacement parts on the planet. Replaced a good bit of my Tahoe’s front end and it’s spectacular now
Beautiful truck. A lot better than the shit they’re making these days
Did you buy all the front end suspension parts in a kit for that truck or did you buy each part individually ? I've got to do this same repair on my '06 GMC Z71.
I have a 04 sierra that I drop to a 5/8 stance. And did a complete rebuild on the frontend. And I agree auto parts stores carry crap specialty tools. Inner tierod tool
What did you use for parts???
@Carlos Prince I bought a complete frontend kit from Detroit Axle. Zero problems going on 2 and a half years.
Excellent video very helpful 👍
I just did my gear box on my 03 Chevy 3500 and the thing that took the longest was the dam pitman arm lol I bent so many puller as well
lol about to do this for the first time on my 99 chevy!
I wanna rebuild my engine on my 04 Tahoe. I know nothing about vehicles though lol learning as I go.
Me too buddie the pit man arm was insanely hard to get off of the gear box on my 06 aswell
I wish there was a link to all the part you got for the front end
Moog makes great stuff man!
Love this video you dropped in just in time ive been procrastinating on my 07 classic cateye but just need get it done. My whole front end is shot and really just undrivable at this point and leaking powesterring bad
Bruh u too 🤦🏿♂️yea I'm in the process of getting my entire front end and back suspension fixed
This video dropped with good timing. My 2001 F-150 is going to need some work done to the steering as there is some play in it. Looking at the components, I suspect that the idler arm just needs to be replaced and the other components are still good, but I still need to have someone turn the steering wheel while I look at the components to confirm.
Did you do new upper control arms that are made for a leveling kit, or is that even needed?
How long did the job take in total?
I’m gonna do a 3 inch Rough country strut lift to my F150 in the future, got to make sure these 22x12’s clear entirely.
When I replace my idler arm do I have to replace the idler arm bracket because I've rebuilt everything on my front end and the steering is still loose?
Pickup trucks ride smoother with weight in the back because the suspension is stiff to allow for added weight without bottoming out.
If I replace the steering box at the same time do I have to go through the madness with the pitman arm? Or is removing it first for clearance? I have a 1500 now but my 2500hd made me tap out on that replacement…after hourrrss and multiple pitman arm removers
@yeti420
How was your steering gear box? I have an 04 Silverado crew cab z71 that needs all that done plus a new gear box gonna be way nicer just haven’t had time to get the parts what did that cost you what you did ?
How do I know if my center link was installed wrong? Is there any pictures or videos of what’s the right and wrong way of installing it?
Did the pitman and idler arm take any side to side play out of the wheel? Or is that entirely from the steering gear box? I have 295k on my 01 replaced the wheel bearings and ball joints and tie rod ends but didn’t do the idler and pitman arm.
35s? With only a leveling kit! How much rubbing is there? Or did you have to modify? I have 285/70r17 on my 04 Silverado and they rub stock.
Remove the sway bar. It makes for a smoother ride. Mine has been off for the last 10 years.
I got a question not sure if you know but will 33x12.5x20 fit a 2017 Silverado with a leveling kit only without rub or small rub?
I have a 16 Silverado with 24” x 10” snowflakes wrapped in 12.50” x 33 mts with a leveling kit and they only rub on the sway bar slightly. But my wheels are flush under the wheel well. I had 22x12 wide rims on 12.50” wide 33” mts and they rubbed bad on the rear part of the fender well. I couldn’t fully lock the steering wheel in reverse. So In a nut shell. If you have wider than 10” rims yes they will rub.
@@JohnDoe-ys3ed is it bad when turning? Does it ever make you regret getting that big? Thank you for answering.
Moog is one of the best!
Great video, but damn the truck! Where do you live???? It's beautiful!!!!!!
Mevotech TTX over moog all day… you go to replace balljoints just give em a look.
I'm waiting on kryptonite as well. Depressing hearing that from you. I'll probably end up doing the same thing. But yeah thanks i am about to tackle the same project on my 06 with 245,705 on her.
Man where in the world are the roads so clean!.,.
This is proof that if you don't have all the tools, Jack stands, secondary MacGyver tools available on a nice garage floor, pay the dude that does... Well at least for the idler and pitman because those both on multiple years of Chevy have been a real pain...
The pitman arm on my 2001 Tahoe is the last steering component that i need to replace besides the steering box
135,009 on my truck, breaking in a brand new engine. This is next on my list.
did you do the ball joints?
Any updates on this? Still going strong?