@@rappelclub8271That may be but I like to keep it simple and know a couple of methods and systems really well and practice with the munter hitch often. The breaker bar carabiner methods look like the breaker biner could slip and lead to unpredictable behavior. Dangling on a rope, I prefer predictability. Much respect.
@@rappelclub8271 dude, that technique is forbidden in industrial climbing for exact that reason, it CAN open the gate! Little bump in the wall presses against the carabiner and... boom.
@@rappelclub8271 I bet the hownot2 guys could find a way for it to open. Regardless if it "can't" open or not you should be using a locking biner for any connection that is a single point of failure.
The support + was very intuitive to me. I learnt the support way as a way to be able to rappell down fast without danger of the rope loosening too much and without danger of it turning into a girth hitch and locking you, but as soon a i learnt it i realized i could add extra safety by running the rope through the back of the small circle. Very intuitive and safe
Thank you for sharing these various ways of setting up the figure 8 with your rope. I’ve made a small repelling set up to include uncertain backpacking trips into the woods. Better to have, and not need that not to have and find myself in a situation needing it. Cheers🎉
Good point, but I have carabiners that are rated at 22kn with the gate open and 72kn with the gate locked, I have never had a problem, I have even rappelled using nothing but a bicycle as my rappel device, I guess next you are going to tell me that it should not be allowed cause it is bicycle abuse.
No matter how strong carabiners you are using, an open carabiner could slip out of the figure 8 when you open it mid rappel. I know its unlikely as long as you have weight on it, but you are opening up to a potential accident.
@@Tobi-zd9zp You might be right, but I guess I was not expecting any one to use some cheap light weight biner to rappel with, unless it was an emergency
If you're rappelling correctly you never shock load the system. Side loaded carabiners can still handle 7kn (HMS, that I-Beam style is garbage for raps but still plenty strong). We use this method all day long while Canyoneering.
The one after your biner brake bar method (5:20) would cross load the biner and if the biner was to break, your rope wouldn't be attached to any part of your rap device and you'd free fall. Highly recommend not crossloading the biner.
@@rappelclub8271 Cross loading is one thing, but you are suggesting intentionally side loading them. There is no safe rating for side loading carabiners.
@@rappelclub8271the MBL for crossloading on most biners is 8kn which is 800kg. But that is the breaking load. The rated load is a tenth of that which is 80kg so it is not safe to side load biners for people.
If you use 'canyon plus' mode but then clip the two carbiners into a third caribiner which attaches to the harness, this is good for people just learning to rappel. It puts everything in front of their line of sight (Make sure long hair is tied up!), and they are less likely to feed their hand through it! Good video, some techniques I'm going to try that I didn't know about after 42 years of climbing and teaching.
If you twist the bight before passing it around the small hole in canyon mode, you get an ''auto-locking'' mode, and you can pull down on the small hole that now acts as a handle for the auto-braking function. Make sure to keep a firm hand on the rope below the device because it can ''lock'' in the ''open'' position. I always advise having a back-up rope (or at the very least a fireman belay from a partner) to prevent injury, especially when experimenting with new techniques.
A rescue 8 (with ears) is slightly larger but much more useful than a standard 8 and won't half hitch and lock you down. You can hold your position simply and easily with a hard or soft lock and release it instantly.
Nice video. Forgive the observation, but "cross carabiner mode" (5:05) looks dicey as hell. The figure-8 is cross-loading the *gate* of the carabiner alone (not cross loading the entire carabiner, which would at least give you the standard 7kn rating). If that gate joint pops, the rope leaves that rig altogether and you're dropping like a rock. Most of these are really cool, but that one gives me the willies.
Hi, Thank you so much for the video this is/was Excellent information. Quick question for you, I'm just now looking into the sport and wondering if you could tell me what basics I need or should purchase to be able to ascend and rappel Thank you greatly Appreciated!
If you are just rappelling, then a descender, 5-10 carabiners, a harness, and some good hiking boots for traction while on rappel, if you are climbing, it depends, there is specific gear for rock climbing, mountain climbing, ice climbing, and for canyoning (or canyoneering). So it really depends what you are trying to learn.
Now i have 9-10 choices more to do with my figure 8, however i have to test these mothods by myself about friction levels before use in real situation, and thank you very much for this informative video.
i suspect that none of the other experts thought of the last one because normally you'd walk up to an abseil rope and attach in to it. Who would think of de-rigging it to thread the device. You could also repeatedly thread the end through the device to create multiple wraps around the big ring of the Fig8.
Yes, but if you repeatedly wrap around the big ring of the 8, the heat build up is insane, unless you are only dropping a hundred feet or so, some of these methods generate much less heat, and can be used for drops of 300 or more feet.
Nice video...in the rescue mode do you have to worry about the rope going high in the eight and locking it up??? Had this happen to buddy as he was coming out of unlocking the rope for a stop in rappel?
No, the multiple wraps around the big ring in the 8 makes it almost impossible for the rope to form a girth hitch, unlike in the regular rappel mode. It can happen, but you would have to really rub the rope up against a wall or something as you are going down.
Just seen where Omega is going out of business...sad. Another question I seen where during set up you should push through a straight 8 and pull through a rescue 8 any thoughts???
The canyoning mode (without your modification) is crazy...why anyone would rely on that is beyond me. Your mod should be considered mandatory. Well done video. Thanks
The main use for canyon mode is for short abseils into water, especially with fast moving water at the bottom. It is sometimes very dangerous to be attached to the rope in this kind of water, so it's helpful to be able to get off rope as quickly as possible. I tend to avoid using it and just set the rope length to be just under the water for quicker dissattachment.
helpful, yet I'm far more likely to be rappelling off 2 strands, Not 1. Many of these methods would still work, some would be convoluted. likely to use #2, 8, 9, 10 for 2 strands. Any input? Thanks
The reason people answer 'no' to the munter hitch question is that it goes without saying that any system should be detachable from the rope, e.g. when you reach an anchor. You can detach yourself from the 8 but you can't remove it from the rope, unless you have access to one of the ends. I'm not saying it doesn't have applications, of course, but it's a different category from all the other systems that can be attached and detached w/o accessing one of the ends. But overall it's an interesting video. People forget that climbing was a thing way before the invention of modern devices.
clip the fig 8 large hole to your belt krab. take a bight of rope and thread through the small 8 hole and clip a loose 2nd krab into that rope loop. now take your free rope into into a rope loop and pass through big fig 8 hole and connect this loop to your second crab and rotate that krab so the gate is away from your break hand now you have 2 loops across your break bar. you never had to unclip your gig 8 and ropes never passes near brake bar krab gate. liked and subbed your great vid ty.
Absolutely new to this. Fortunately, understood all the terms, and am familiarized with the items in question. I'm looking for a way of setting up a SHTF way of getting outta my appartment in case the paranoid hypocondriacs in my building keep the "public spaces" in the terrace locked, when they happen to be, in fact, escape exits as well. I believe I'm going to go with the last setup/knot, as it looked the simplest, and the activity is new to me and unfortunately, don't even have time nor the facilities to practice, being under quarantine et al. Cheers, and thanks a lot for the video, super easy to understand. Seriously. I never rapelled in my whole life and there wasn't a word I did not get. Have a nice day sir!
for some one that has never rappelled before, I would suggest the method at 7:22, it is the safest and delivers lots of friction to stay in control of the descent.
@@rappelclub8271 For someone new, you set them up standard and have a bottom guy who can yank the breaking rope. Every comment here you basically set people up to die.
May i add the auto locking setup: bite through the large opening, twist it 180 (to the right) before attaching around the smaller hole then clip in the large opening. if you press down on the 8 so its pointing down (instead of sideways( you rappel down, if you let go it stops you, might creep a bit with wet (8,5mm in my case) rope
I was non concentrating on locking off methods or I would have included the one you mention, which I believe is called the Italian method, as well as the lock off method used with rappelling in canyon mode
I see you havent posted in roughly a year or so?! I genuinly hope none of your half cocked open your life support during descent and sketchy side loading techniques failed you my brother!!! I commend your fearlessness, creative spirit and originality! But you sir... Must have much more testicular fortitude than I with all that side loading and life support opening stuff!! Good video still!! Cheers!!!
I have been using these configurations for more than 15 years, not sure what you mean. I have even used a bicycle as my only rappel device and it worked fine, all depends on what you know and have experience with.
I'm no professional, but Carabiner brake mode, the one after (and a few more after that) to me seems like a really bad idea. You're placing the majority of stress on the carabiner (the weakest part of the system). If it moves a bit, you'll be putting the majority of stress on the minor axis. Furthermore, it seems likely that it might potentially cause stress cracks after a while.. If the carabiner fails, the rope will pop out and the ground will be the only thing that stops you (there is less redundancy, and more that can go wrong).. Otherwise, good list (learning a lot)
usually I used locking carabiners, but for certain applications it is not required, such as the very old way of rappelling called "carabiner Brake" method using 4 carabiners, opposite and opposed
Using a Munter hitch to ascend a rope won’t work because there is no progress capture mechanism in the munter like there is in a plaquette in guide mode, a grigri, or purpose built ascender.
Hmmmmmm. If you use a Munter, you usually back it up with a Prusik (or is it Prussic) loop, but you can climb with the Prusik by itself. It tends to cinch tight so might want so set it up with a micro pulley to help tending your slack.
Very interesting on all the variations but some seems too complicated. In my personal experience I like the Munter hitch using a pear shaped carabiner. Not enough friction? Use the double Munter. Back up your system with a prusik loop or Kleimheist
@@rappelclub8271 I have not have that problem but maybe it's because of the type of rope being used. I know most rock climbers & rapellers use static rope. I believe I use dynamic ropes, maybe that's the reason.
@@benjaminchen1964 No, that is not the reason, I have both dynamic (for climbing) and static for rappelling, caving, and canyoning, if you are doing rappels of 100 feet or more, the kinks and twists can become a problem, especially in natural environments, plus it wears out the rope very fast since all the friction comes from the rope rubbing on itself as it goes around the carabiner.
yes, but the biggest reason we use it in canyoning situations is that we can detach from the rope without ever having to unlock the carabiner or disconnect the 8 from the carabiner
I’m in no way an expert climber but I would like to add ☝️ more variation to you list. Not only for descending but also for an ascent , place a bite through the big hole with the small hole pointing to the Rt. rotate the bite counter clockwise and place it over the small hole and clip into the big hole now you can ascend with the aid of an hand ascender with a foot loop and to descend keeping your brake hand on the tail pull down on the 8 like a lever ( this doesn’t work with a pulley for a 3 to 1 mechanical advantage)
Rappel Club I think it should still count think of it like a self locking rappel ? cause your weight pinches the rope by pulling down the 8 allows you to control your descent
I prefer a fisk myself. But I've used figure 8ts ,shackles, carabieners. Know your wraps. With a fisk you can easily stop and arrest decent, and use both hands for work. I've been trained in tower rescue.
@@dereksmith4791 The Fisk (See ruclips.net/video/nFCUNhjOTmw/видео.html ) is similar to the rescue-8 in that it has holes & horns for control features. It is considerably bigger, heavier, and more complicated & expensive, but usually puts somewhat less stress and strain on the rope. I used it briefly in firefighting, and feel it has its place in industry, and is perfectly usable for sport, but seems much less practical with no significant advantages.
The video is very interesting, but with this format you use about one third of the available video area and some time we can not see what are you doing with the descender.
HAVE THE STOP AND SIMPLE, don't like the simple, love the STOP, problem is that in the real world you might need to rappel with double ropes in order to pull the rope down and use it again, the Petzl's you refer to only work with single strands of rope, and they don't work well with any ropes 9.2 or smaller.
For the price of a Petzl stop you might as well toss the figure 8 and get an auto braking device. I use a prusick below (not above) the figure 8 and it works extremely well.
Hi Rappel club . I'm looking for something that will let me let out rope that at one end is tied to the chimney and attached to me some how that will allow me to slode down the roof at a steep pitch till I reach my gutters to clean them out . Once I reach the gutters I want to stop and not be allowed to go any farther . I would like to be locked in place My hands will be in the gutters taking out leaves and putting them in a bag so I can't hold on to the rope. I have a tree stand body harness I can wear that has a place to attach a carabiner to .Is there some type of mechanical device that a rope runs through to let out rope and has a way to lock it in place once I'm close to the edge .
if you use a figure 8 in canyon mode, once you reach your objective, you can wrap the down rope around the "neck" of the figure eight several times to put you in a hand's free, locked off mode.
@@rappelclub8271 is this a good one www.omniprogear.com/Petzl-STOP-descender-p/PD09.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8PyBRDMARIsAFo4wK0YVkEhXXePG2LKOkn1y4CguXX4HltPMAirjZH6L0LzOOxyXc4PHlMaArBZEALw_wcB
@@Sertao2013 Yes, the Petzl STOP works great, only problem is that it only works with single ropes, and does not work very well if the rope is smaller than 9mm, other than that, it is a great piece of equipment
sure, it is called the carabiner wrap rappel and only needs 1 D ring, or you can use 2 D rings and it is called the "french rappel" or "crossed carabiner" rappel
Thanks a TON for this, what an awesome resource this has been for me!! Wanted to know your thoughts on using two 8's, back-to-back, so far as I can see it'd simply "stretch-out" the width of a single fig.8 so that there was that much more friction on the line, my only fig.8's are (1) standard and (1) is a 'bent-8 with ears' (slight arc to the entire unit), so they won't be that great for testing not like using (2) identical fig.8's that'd really pinch each other but I do kinda expect I'll prefer the double-8's approach (am having trouble finding any reliably good rappel-method with my 8, think I've gone through your list here enough am gonna do 1 more attempt at all the ones you list before embarking on the double-8's approach!)
@@rappelclub8271 You don't even know what blocking means and talk about false claims: Stop telling people that you came up with these methods. That last one that you couldn't even do right the first time might be yours because I've never seen it before and it's dumb but the others have been around far longer than you. You come off as a know-it-all bigmouth that cannot take criticism of any kind. Being rude to your viewer's because they have opinions that don't match your is BS. Unsubbed as well. Poser.
Munter on a Figure 8... sure but I see two problems. You have to have access to the anchor point or end of the rope at the top in order to set up the munter and then also you have to have access to the end of the rope at the bottom. If the rope is already tied into the anchor, you would need to pull up the rope to feed it through or untie the rope from the anchor. Same with the bottom. if the end of the rope is tied off.. you have a problem...
Hes talking about putting a 180° twist in canyon mode before going over the small hole. It makes it an assisted braking device. Pulling down on the small hole opens the system releasing it relocks it
Never open your carabiner during your belay and the "carabiner brake" modes look sketchy, the rope could open the gate.
Look closer, no way those methods can open the gates
@@rappelclub8271That may be but I like to keep it simple and know a couple of methods and systems really well and practice with the munter hitch often. The breaker bar carabiner methods look like the breaker biner could slip and lead to unpredictable behavior. Dangling on a rope, I prefer predictability. Much respect.
@@rappelclub8271 dude, that technique is forbidden in industrial climbing for exact that reason, it CAN open the gate! Little bump in the wall presses against the carabiner and... boom.
@@rappelclub8271 I bet the hownot2 guys could find a way for it to open. Regardless if it "can't" open or not you should be using a locking biner for any connection that is a single point of failure.
In the brake bar set up, tou can completely remove the gate, and it will still work safely, I have no idea what you are talking about.
The support + was very intuitive to me. I learnt the support way as a way to be able to rappell down fast without danger of the rope loosening too much and without danger of it turning into a girth hitch and locking you, but as soon a i learnt it i realized i could add extra safety by running the rope through the back of the small circle.
Very intuitive and safe
Thank you for sharing these various ways of setting up the figure 8 with your rope. I’ve made a small repelling set up to include uncertain backpacking trips into the woods. Better to have, and not need that not to have and find myself in a situation needing it.
Cheers🎉
I would not recommend opening your locking life safety carabiner mid rappel, ever. Otherwise, nice list of rappel techniques.
What I was immediately thinking as well.
Good point, but I have carabiners that are rated at 22kn with the gate open and 72kn with the gate locked, I have never had a problem, I have even rappelled using nothing but a bicycle as my rappel device, I guess next you are going to tell me that it should not be allowed cause it is bicycle abuse.
@@youregonnaattackthem Not if you know what you are doing, and have been doing it for 32 years.
No matter how strong carabiners you are using, an open carabiner could slip out of the figure 8 when you open it mid rappel. I know its unlikely as long as you have weight on it, but you are opening up to a potential accident.
@@gustafmartinsson True, but I have been doing this for a long time, my carabiners are mostly rated at 51kn, never had a problem.
In the cross-carabiner mode you can actually break your carabiner if it is a nowadays lightweighted piece.
Yes, maybe, but I do not use light weight any thing.
Rappel Club so why don't you say this? There are a lot of newbies out there, seeing some stuff in the Internet and going out and die.
@@Tobi-zd9zp You might be right, but I guess I was not expecting any one to use some cheap light weight biner to rappel with, unless it was an emergency
I'd have to agree. My least favorite method.
If you're rappelling correctly you never shock load the system. Side loaded carabiners can still handle 7kn (HMS, that I-Beam style is garbage for raps but still plenty strong). We use this method all day long while Canyoneering.
The one after your biner brake bar method (5:20) would cross load the biner and if the biner was to break, your rope wouldn't be attached to any part of your rap device and you'd free fall. Highly recommend not crossloading the biner.
cross loading the carabiner is no problem at all, as long as you don't cross load the gate with more force than it is rated for
@@rappelclub8271 Cross loading is one thing, but you are suggesting intentionally side loading them. There is no safe rating for side loading carabiners.
@@Maskenkenthis technique is incredibly dangerous. Promoting it is negligent.
@@rappelclub8271the MBL for crossloading on most biners is 8kn which is 800kg. But that is the breaking load. The rated load is a tenth of that which is 80kg so it is not safe to side load biners for people.
If you use 'canyon plus' mode but then clip the two carbiners into a third caribiner which attaches to the harness, this is good for people just learning to rappel. It puts everything in front of their line of sight (Make sure long hair is tied up!), and they are less likely to feed their hand through it! Good video, some techniques I'm going to try that I didn't know about after 42 years of climbing and teaching.
Ces méthodes vrillent énormément les cordes! A user avec précaution! Merci à la chaine!
A munter hitch with a carabiner will also allow you to rappell when you got no rappell device (be it an 8, atc, etc)
Ive noticed that it kind of puts a permanent twist in the rope though.
rope on rope friction is a no no . only use in emergency cause it will mess your rope up .
This is great, never seen so many techniques with a figure 8 before, thanks.
If you twist the bight before passing it around the small hole in canyon mode, you get an ''auto-locking'' mode, and you can pull down on the small hole that now acts as a handle for the auto-braking function. Make sure to keep a firm hand on the rope below the device because it can ''lock'' in the ''open'' position. I always advise having a back-up rope (or at the very least a fireman belay from a partner) to prevent injury, especially when experimenting with new techniques.
Nice!
Called the "Czech Grigri" here in Switzerland.
Thanks for this video! Nice to have an overview of different figure 8 configurations.
Oh man. The best tutorial ever! Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work!🙂👍👍👍
This is so great never seen so many ways to rappel, tanks for ur time showing us keepit up..from belize SAM TZ..
Excellent basics.
Thank you.
In the standard mode I have read the rope can slip upwards and cause a hitch. any experience with this?
A rescue 8 (with ears) is slightly larger but much more useful than a standard 8 and won't half hitch and lock you down. You can hold your position simply and easily with a hard or soft lock and release it instantly.
I have 3 rescue 8s, love them, but a bit heavy for daily use
@@rappelclub8271 Says the same guy shit talking lightweight biners. Make your mind up.
@@rappelclub8271 Do you rappel to work? Wth are you talking about? Why do you have 3?
anybody complaining about weight needs to hit the gym, crying about weight is a sign of weakness
hard agree @@spaceman8839
I like the French rappel with 2 locking carabiners.
thanks, all I needed to know about figure 8 :) that belay mode is something im going to have fun with next.
great video!! thanks for the share
Thanks again for your time. Stay safe and Godspeed.
Love the video, great descriptions of advantages of certain setups and lots of options to explore for different scenarios
That's so good. Thanks!
Great stuff. Glad I watched
It’s a great video! Thank you so much.
Nice video. Forgive the observation, but "cross carabiner mode" (5:05) looks dicey as hell. The figure-8 is cross-loading the *gate* of the carabiner alone (not cross loading the entire carabiner, which would at least give you the standard 7kn rating). If that gate joint pops, the rope leaves that rig altogether and you're dropping like a rock. Most of these are really cool, but that one gives me the willies.
Hi, Thank you so much for the video this is/was Excellent information. Quick question for you, I'm just now looking into the sport and wondering if you could tell me what basics I need or should purchase to be able to ascend and rappel
Thank you greatly Appreciated!
If you are just rappelling, then a descender, 5-10 carabiners, a harness, and some good hiking boots for traction while on rappel, if you are climbing, it depends, there is specific gear for rock climbing, mountain climbing, ice climbing, and for canyoning (or canyoneering). So it really depends what you are trying to learn.
Super simple to follow. Thanks dude!
any tricks for using a set of tiny rings to adjust and lock off amsteel hammock suspension?
Very insightful thank you
Спасибо 👍
Great job, thanks ..!
Now i have 9-10 choices more to do with my figure 8, however i have to test these mothods by myself about friction levels before use in real situation, and thank you very much for this informative video.
I learned a lot, great video. You and Barry Manilo sound alike.
The last one looks like it would ruin the rope in a hurry.
i suspect that none of the other experts thought of the last one because normally you'd walk up to an abseil rope and attach in to it. Who would think of de-rigging it to thread the device. You could also repeatedly thread the end through the device to create multiple wraps around the big ring of the Fig8.
Yes, but if you repeatedly wrap around the big ring of the 8, the heat build up is insane, unless you are only dropping a hundred feet or so, some of these methods generate much less heat, and can be used for drops of 300 or more feet.
Nice info, thanks man
Figuer 8 and carabiner and rope acces it is the Best, tanks bro tutorial and information
Nice... well done..!😊
I like gear minimalism. I have a f8. There are many descend options out there. Munter hitch has been just fine for under 100 feet. Tree climber. 🌳 ❤
Cheers Mate!
Nice video...in the rescue mode do you have to worry about the rope going high in the eight and locking it up??? Had this happen to buddy as he was coming out of unlocking the rope for a stop in rappel?
No, the multiple wraps around the big ring in the 8 makes it almost impossible for the rope to form a girth hitch, unlike in the regular rappel mode. It can happen, but you would have to really rub the rope up against a wall or something as you are going down.
Just seen where Omega is going out of business...sad. Another question I seen where during set up you should push through a straight 8 and pull through a rescue 8 any thoughts???
Do you prefer a figure 8 to other devices? So many lighter options.
Nicely and simply explained. Some ideas I had not seen before.
The canyoning mode (without your modification) is crazy...why anyone would rely on that is beyond me. Your mod should be considered mandatory. Well done video. Thanks
The main use for canyon mode is for short abseils into water, especially with fast moving water at the bottom. It is sometimes very dangerous to be attached to the rope in this kind of water, so it's helpful to be able to get off rope as quickly as possible. I tend to avoid using it and just set the rope length to be just under the water for quicker dissattachment.
That is not his mod. This guy claims he came up with some of these methods but that is SO not true.
really great information. need to know stopper knots with that thing now.. thanks.
Great video thank you so much for making this! One of the best break downs on you tube
Black Diamond instructions on the Super 8 seems to show method #2 ("Sport Mode") as one of the ways to die on this gear haha - am I seeing it wrong?
helpful, yet I'm far more likely to be rappelling off 2 strands, Not 1. Many of these methods would still work, some would be convoluted. likely to use #2, 8, 9, 10 for 2 strands. Any input? Thanks
The reason people answer 'no' to the munter hitch question is that it goes without saying that any system should be detachable from the rope, e.g. when you reach an anchor. You can detach yourself from the 8 but you can't remove it from the rope, unless you have access to one of the ends.
I'm not saying it doesn't have applications, of course, but it's a different category from all the other systems that can be attached and detached w/o accessing one of the ends.
But overall it's an interesting video. People forget that climbing was a thing way before the invention of modern devices.
Would it be safer with to attach a Klemheist above the Canyon Mode in 6;21? Thanks for sharing.
Above?? perhaps below, not above.
clip the fig 8 large hole to your belt krab. take a bight of rope and thread through the small 8 hole and clip a loose 2nd krab into that rope loop. now take your free rope into into a rope loop and pass through big fig 8 hole and connect this loop to your second crab and rotate that krab so the gate is away from your break hand now you have 2 loops across your break bar.
you never had to unclip your gig 8 and ropes never passes near brake bar krab gate.
liked and subbed your great vid ty.
Absolutely new to this. Fortunately, understood all the terms, and am familiarized with the items in question. I'm looking for a way of setting up a SHTF way of getting outta my appartment in case the paranoid hypocondriacs in my building keep the "public spaces" in the terrace locked, when they happen to be, in fact, escape exits as well. I believe I'm going to go with the last setup/knot, as it looked the simplest, and the activity is new to me and unfortunately, don't even have time nor the facilities to practice, being under quarantine et al.
Cheers, and thanks a lot for the video, super easy to understand. Seriously. I never rapelled in my whole life and there wasn't a word I did not get. Have a nice day sir!
for some one that has never rappelled before, I would suggest the method at 7:22, it is the safest and delivers lots of friction to stay in control of the descent.
@@rappelclub8271 Isn't standard safer? Less complicated, plus just needs 1 biner. The only techniques needed are the soft-lock and the hard-lock.
@@rappelclub8271 For someone new, you set them up standard and have a bottom guy who can yank the breaking rope. Every comment here you basically set people up to die.
Can you make a video about how to go back up? (Ascend)
Great video!
May i add the auto locking setup:
bite through the large opening, twist it 180 (to the right) before attaching around the smaller hole then clip in the large opening.
if you press down on the 8 so its pointing down (instead of sideways( you rappel down, if you let go it stops you, might creep a bit with wet (8,5mm in my case) rope
I was about to comment the same thing.
I was not concentrating on lock off methods, or I would have included yours along with the one used when rappelling in canyon mode
I was non concentrating on locking off methods or I would have included the one you mention, which I believe is called the Italian method, as well as the lock off method used with rappelling in canyon mode
I see you havent posted in roughly a year or so?! I genuinly hope none of your half cocked open your life support during descent and sketchy side loading techniques failed you my brother!!! I commend your fearlessness, creative spirit and originality! But you sir... Must have much more testicular fortitude than I with all that side loading and life support opening stuff!! Good video still!! Cheers!!!
Learning!! Thank you for the video!
A few of the examples can be done with rap ring only. Good stuff, man. I may join the rappel club. Good stuff.
Why? The figure 8 stands by its self. Not made to be used in any configure you have shown.
I have been using these configurations for more than 15 years, not sure what you mean. I have even used a bicycle as my only rappel device and it worked fine, all depends on what you know and have experience with.
@@dvmulligan I personally have eight years experience using koala bears as ascenders. True story
I usually use additional carabiner, like when you're using bobbin descender.
I'm no professional, but Carabiner brake mode, the one after (and a few more after that) to me seems like a really bad idea. You're placing the majority of stress on the carabiner (the weakest part of the system). If it moves a bit, you'll be putting the majority of stress on the minor axis. Furthermore, it seems likely that it might potentially cause stress cracks after a while..
If the carabiner fails, the rope will pop out and the ground will be the only thing that stops you (there is less redundancy, and more that can go wrong)..
Otherwise, good list (learning a lot)
when you rappel with an ATC, don't you put the majority of load on the carabiner???
@@rappelclub8271 I mean crossloading it.. But again, I'm no professional (you probably know better)
@@AndrewLuecke what is the difference between crossed loading it at the spine or on the top???
@@AndrewLuecke what is the difference between cross loading the carabiner at the spine or at the top???
hello from iraq with you well done
Thank you.
Your accent is so cool I love it 👍
Cool, didn't realize I had an accent
Should one use a prusik as a backup when respelling?
You should always use a prusik as a backup when rappelling, just in case.
Do you use locking biners in real time? I would be concerned about the rope getting freed up.
usually I used locking carabiners, but for certain applications it is not required, such as the very old way of rappelling called "carabiner Brake" method using 4 carabiners, opposite and opposed
Thanks for the video. I learned something! You know your shit! 👍
What figure 8 are you using
it is a Trango, but I have Kong, ABC, Black Diamond, and Petzl figure 8's as well, all work well
Thanks dewd!!
I know this is a dumb question but I’m just curious are these made out of stainless or aluminum?
mostly aluminum, although I do use some stainless steel Omega D carabiners rated at 72kn
Rappel Club thank you very much. Very great video!!
좋아요
Just one question if you can use a minter hitch to descend that could mean you can use it to ascend with to with a back up
haven't tried that yet, but will give it a spin to see if it is possible/safe
Using a Munter hitch to ascend a rope won’t work because there is no progress capture mechanism in the munter like there is in a plaquette in guide mode, a grigri, or purpose built ascender.
Austin Gillem you could just use a prusik or some form of an auto block an do it pretty easy I’d suspect
Hmmmmmm. If you use a Munter, you usually back it up with a Prusik (or is it Prussic) loop, but you can climb with the Prusik by itself. It tends to cinch tight so might want so set it up with a micro pulley to help tending your slack.
Some useful information, thank you.
Very interesting on all the variations but some seems too complicated. In my personal experience I like the Munter hitch using a pear shaped carabiner. Not enough friction? Use the double Munter. Back up your system with a prusik loop or Kleimheist
the munter is great, but also puts the most amount of kink in the rope
@@rappelclub8271 I have not have that problem but maybe it's because of the type of rope being used. I know most rock climbers & rapellers use static rope. I believe I use dynamic ropes, maybe that's the reason.
@@benjaminchen1964 No, that is not the reason, I have both dynamic (for climbing) and static for rappelling, caving, and canyoning, if you are doing rappels of 100 feet or more, the kinks and twists can become a problem, especially in natural environments, plus it wears out the rope very fast since all the friction comes from the rope rubbing on itself as it goes around the carabiner.
this is awesome man, thanks!
thanks!
Need back up prusik for gunter hitch
Unless short diatances.
Canyon mode is meant to allow additional friction. Not just quick detachment.
yes, but the biggest reason we use it in canyoning situations is that we can detach from the rope without ever having to unlock the carabiner or disconnect the 8 from the carabiner
I’m in no way an expert climber but I would like to add ☝️ more variation to you list. Not only for descending but also for an ascent , place a bite through the big hole with the small hole pointing to the Rt. rotate the bite counter clockwise and place it over the small hole and clip into the big hole now you can ascend with the aid of an hand ascender with a foot loop and to descend keeping your brake hand on the tail pull down on the 8 like a lever ( this doesn’t work with a pulley for a 3 to 1 mechanical advantage)
Yes, you are right, but this video only concentrates on methods for rappelling, not ascending or locking off
Rappel Club I think it should still count think of it like a self locking rappel ? cause your weight pinches the rope by pulling down the 8 allows you to control your descent
Q lindo ese es un ocho cuanto vale ese muy lindo nolo tengo yo escalo altura ami nivel saludo amigo
Could you do some video on how to tie off each one?
tie offs are usually done with a prusick back up
Creo que el sistema mostrado en el minuto 5:25 se puede hacer con 2 mosquetones. Muchas gracias.
This guy really be out here just making modes up
Interesting.
I prefer a fisk myself. But I've used figure 8ts ,shackles, carabieners.
Know your wraps.
With a fisk you can easily stop and arrest decent, and use both hands for work. I've been trained in tower rescue.
Never even heard of a 'fisk', thanks for posting am off to Google ;D
@@dereksmith4791 The Fisk (See ruclips.net/video/nFCUNhjOTmw/видео.html ) is similar to the rescue-8 in that it has holes & horns for control features. It is considerably bigger, heavier, and more complicated & expensive, but usually puts somewhat less stress and strain on the rope. I used it briefly in firefighting, and feel it has its place in industry, and is perfectly usable for sport, but seems much less practical with no significant advantages.
good job
The video is very interesting, but with this format you use about one third of the available video area and some time we can not see what are you doing with the descender.
Thanks for showing different options for different scenarios. Good video
How about just use petzl stop or simple or anything similar, can lock off easily....
HAVE THE STOP AND SIMPLE, don't like the simple, love the STOP, problem is that in the real world you might need to rappel with double ropes in order to pull the rope down and use it again, the Petzl's you refer to only work with single strands of rope, and they don't work well with any ropes 9.2 or smaller.
Rig. All im saying. 😁
For the price of a Petzl stop you might as well toss the figure 8 and get an auto braking device.
I use a prusick below (not above) the figure 8 and it works extremely well.
Hi Rappel club . I'm looking for something that will let me let out rope that at one end is tied to the chimney and attached to me some how that will allow me to slode down the roof at a steep pitch till I reach my gutters to clean them out . Once I reach the gutters I want to stop and not be allowed to go any farther . I would like to be locked in place My hands will be in the gutters taking out leaves and putting them in a bag so I can't hold on to the rope. I have a tree stand body harness I can wear that has a place to attach a carabiner to .Is there some type of mechanical device that a rope runs through to let out rope and has a way to lock it in place once I'm close to the edge .
if you use a figure 8 in canyon mode, once you reach your objective, you can wrap the down rope around the "neck" of the figure eight several times to put you in a hand's free, locked off mode.
Or you can just buy a Petzl Stop and once you let go of the device, it will automatically lock up
@@rappelclub8271 is this a good one www.omniprogear.com/Petzl-STOP-descender-p/PD09.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8PyBRDMARIsAFo4wK0YVkEhXXePG2LKOkn1y4CguXX4HltPMAirjZH6L0LzOOxyXc4PHlMaArBZEALw_wcB
@@rappelclub8271 Do have a video showing how to use the Petzl stop ? If so will you put a link to it here ?
@@Sertao2013 Yes, the Petzl STOP works great, only problem is that it only works with single ropes, and does not work very well if the rope is smaller than 9mm, other than that, it is a great piece of equipment
Can we use only D ring for rappelling....
Without fig 8
sure, it is called the carabiner wrap rappel and only needs 1 D ring, or you can use 2 D rings and it is called the "french rappel" or "crossed carabiner" rappel
just added another video on ways of rappelling with just carabiners, check it out.
@@rappelclub8271 cool
Thanks a TON for this, what an awesome resource this has been for me!!
Wanted to know your thoughts on using two 8's, back-to-back, so far as I can see it'd simply "stretch-out" the width of a single fig.8 so that there was that much more friction on the line, my only fig.8's are (1) standard and (1) is a 'bent-8 with ears' (slight arc to the entire unit), so they won't be that great for testing not like using (2) identical fig.8's that'd really pinch each other but I do kinda expect I'll prefer the double-8's approach (am having trouble finding any reliably good rappel-method with my 8, think I've gone through your list here enough am gonna do 1 more attempt at all the ones you list before embarking on the double-8's approach!)
Dude. Just do a fucking canyoning course.
double standard is what usually what I use for ballet
Thank you
what brand carabiner are you using?
The one in the video is a black diamond carabiner, but I use all kinds, from Kong, to Omega, from aluminum to steel.
The munter hitch looks like it puts unnecessary wear on the rope with it rubbing like that.
Do they make a stainless steel figure8 ?
yes, but they are really heavy
Method at 5:55 side loads the gate! Be careful where you get your advice folks....
you must be blind, none of these techniques side loads the gate, look again, and stop being a fucking clown
@@rappelclub8271 My what a rude response! Unsubing.
@@lizard2425 I don't like people making false claims when they obviously have no clue
@@rappelclub8271 You don't even know what blocking means and talk about false claims: Stop telling people that you came up with these methods. That last one that you couldn't even do right the first time might be yours because I've never seen it before and it's dumb but the others have been around far longer than you. You come off as a know-it-all bigmouth that cannot take criticism of any kind. Being rude to your viewer's because they have opinions that don't match your is BS. Unsubbed as well. Poser.
This should be called more and more dangerous ways to use a figure 8
Munter on a Figure 8... sure but I see two problems. You have to have access to the anchor point or end of the rope at the top in order to set up the munter and then also you have to have access to the end of the rope at the bottom. If the rope is already tied into the anchor, you would need to pull up the rope to feed it through or untie the rope from the anchor. Same with the bottom. if the end of the rope is tied off.. you have a problem...
You are right, I am not telling you to do this, only that it can be done.
Hes talking about putting a 180° twist in canyon mode before going over the small hole. It makes it an assisted braking device. Pulling down on the small hole opens the system releasing it relocks it