I'm only half way through this but just wanted to stop to say thanks for the clear instruction. Will continue watching now!! Well done. Great teaching. Blessings.
Same thought. Excellent clarity and pace and exactly the information I needed. Gotta replay that friction hitch section and practice a bit, but this will be invaluable next weekend when I'm up on my roof (12/12 pitch, 2 stories up... ) Can't tell you how much I appreciate your effort in putting this together. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you good information to add to my arsenal of youtube climbing Videos im years out of the gym scene and just want back on the mountains so im brushing up on some technical stuff and just going for it once im comfortable... And this video has given my mind some ease when it comes to reppeling safely and how to incorporate the other devices. Thanks again
❤Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
My videos are bare bones with no fancy edits or music. If I had to spend a bunch of time making them polished I probably wouldn't do them at all. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever used the leg wrap or bight on bight locking techniques? I believe they often get referred to as a soft lock and hard lock respectively. They’re basically extensions of jamming the dead strand in front of the live strand against the 8 like what you’ve demonstrated here.
Autoblock? Not quite sure I understand what you are describing but feel free to link a source for me. I'm always up for learning something new. Thanks for watching.
@@lucfournier8222 You’re talking about what often gets referred to as an autoblock or ‘third hand’ whereby a closed loop of cord is wrapped around the brake strand of the rope underneath the descender to form either a French prussik or a Klemheist friction hitch. This serves a different purpose to what I’m talking about: backing up the rappel should your brake hand let go for any number of reasons to prevent you plummeting off the end of the rope. My comment was asking about methods by which you can lock off the descender when you want to remain stationary and go completely hands-free without the risk of rope slippage. I’m not sure what you were trying to say at the end of your comment.
Do you think I am too old at 73 to start this? My Doctor said to find something to exersise a little. The problem I have is going up. Any useful ideas of going upward with gradual or continuous progress?
Hard to answer without knowing your health status. You have to be strong enough to get yourself out of a problem if one occurs unless you have a group that can help you out. Going down is the easy part but you have to consider the potential need to climb back out. Good luck!
You can get them in 28 to 32 inches in length if I remember correctly. The length depends on what kind of hitch you prefer but if you go with a 30 inch then you split the difference. Cheers
Confused about how you would change friction while actually on rappel. A rack is very easy to change friction you can slide the bars to change friction. Wouldnt a rack be better for the job?
There are multiple lowering devices out there but I'm concentrating on the eight because it is the most inexpensive and common device out there. But of course, a rack has its place as well as a multitude of other devices. Thanks for watching.
@@ActionAdventureClips I'm assuming that you load the device correctly before you commit over an edge. This requires pre-planning your descent. But if for some reason you need to do a changeover you ALWAYS have to have a secondary means of attachment. I'm not advocating you change from a single wrap to a double wrap mid-rappel. But you could use the VT as shown after locking off for more control if needed. Thanks for the comments.
Ademas,NUNCA es conveniente superditar el nudo de bloqueo y el descendedor a un solo punto,es sabido por los que saben,que esto te limita el margen de maniobra y recursos.😅
I'm only half way through this but just wanted to stop to say thanks for the clear instruction. Will continue watching now!! Well done. Great teaching. Blessings.
Thanks for your encouragement. Happy you've enjoyed it. Cheers
Same thought. Excellent clarity and pace and exactly the information I needed. Gotta replay that friction hitch section and practice a bit, but this will be invaluable next weekend when I'm up on my roof (12/12 pitch, 2 stories up... )
Can't tell you how much I appreciate your effort in putting this together. Thanks for sharing!
Focused, lucid, and educational.
Many thanks to you.
I'll take all three. 🙂Thanks for watching!
Thank you good information to add to my arsenal of youtube climbing Videos im years out of the gym scene and just want back on the mountains so im brushing up on some technical stuff and just going for it once im comfortable... And this video has given my mind some ease when it comes to reppeling safely and how to incorporate the other devices. Thanks again
Good luck and happy exploring!
❤Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
My videos are bare bones with no fancy edits or music. If I had to spend a bunch of time making them polished I probably wouldn't do them at all. Thanks for watching!
Very well done Sir .
Thank you for watching and commenting. Happy to help.
Definitely helps! Thank you
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the useful info👍
You are welcome. Have fun and stay safe.
Thank you for this!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, sir.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic. Do you have a video showing how to knot the friction hitch?
I do: ruclips.net/video/i_DyMqf0mZ0/видео.html
Also: ruclips.net/video/L_mi4WTdgHY/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
^Bazinga! Thanks!
Have you ever used the leg wrap or bight on bight locking techniques? I believe they often get referred to as a soft lock and hard lock respectively. They’re basically extensions of jamming the dead strand in front of the live strand against the 8 like what you’ve demonstrated here.
Autoblock? Not quite sure I understand what you are describing but feel free to link a source for me. I'm always up for learning something new. Thanks for watching.
you can attach prussik cord to your leg or harness leg looks
.less strain on itchcord that way
@@lucfournier8222 You’re talking about what often gets referred to as an autoblock or ‘third hand’ whereby a closed loop of cord is wrapped around the brake strand of the rope underneath the descender to form either a French prussik or a Klemheist friction hitch. This serves a different purpose to what I’m talking about: backing up the rappel should your brake hand let go for any number of reasons to prevent you plummeting off the end of the rope. My comment was asking about methods by which you can lock off the descender when you want to remain stationary and go completely hands-free without the risk of rope slippage. I’m not sure what you were trying to say at the end of your comment.
Do you think I am too old at 73 to start this? My Doctor said to find something to exersise a little. The problem I have is going up. Any useful ideas of going upward with gradual or continuous progress?
Hard to answer without knowing your health status. You have to be strong enough to get yourself out of a problem if one occurs unless you have a group that can help you out. Going down is the easy part but you have to consider the potential need to climb back out.
Good luck!
Look at srt method might work best if u would have trouble climbing sticks
You can start on small inclines like small ditches and such. Slow and steady is key
whats the best or most common length for the eye to eye?
You can get them in 28 to 32 inches in length if I remember correctly. The length depends on what kind of hitch you prefer but if you go with a 30 inch then you split the difference. Cheers
Confused about how you would change friction while actually on rappel. A rack is very easy to change friction you can slide the bars to change friction. Wouldnt a rack be better for the job?
There are multiple lowering devices out there but I'm concentrating on the eight because it is the most inexpensive and common device out there. But of course, a rack has its place as well as a multitude of other devices. Thanks for watching.
@perryfire3006 I saw you take it off to add more I guess you would use your ascender to clip off to the rope so you don't fall
@@ActionAdventureClips I'm assuming that you load the device correctly before you commit over an edge. This requires pre-planning your descent. But if for some reason you need to do a changeover you ALWAYS have to have a secondary means of attachment.
I'm not advocating you change from a single wrap to a double wrap mid-rappel. But you could use the VT as shown after locking off for more control if needed. Thanks for the comments.
you can do the normal stop with a different rope than what you are on
There are lots of ways to rappel for sure. Thanks for watching.
🤗
Thanks for watching. Cheers
Ademas,NUNCA es conveniente superditar el nudo de bloqueo y el descendedor a un solo punto,es sabido por los que saben,que esto te limita el margen de maniobra y recursos.😅
I see your point but easily dealt with in this configuration. Salud
Blocking knots have to be down the descender
I've used them successfully in both positions. But use what you are comfortable with using. Cheers
Incorrecto,el bloqueo siempre por debajo del descendedor.
Sempre è una parola forte. Entrambi i modi sono possibili. Saluti
Большая восьмерка тем и хороша,что меньше крутит веревку,а ты наоборот её в бараний рог скручиваешь
Rescue 8 наверняка имеет свое место, хотя на рынке много новых устройств. Спасибо за просмотр!
When you are using a rescue Figure 8 everybody knows that you should not ever unclip and tie off😢
Safety first
Ну ты и придумщик🤦
Сомневаюсь, что я первый, кто что-то сделает, хаха. Спасибо за просмотр.