You’re Welcome! Funny thing the other day I couldn’t remember how to get the different modes on a customer’s bike so I put my video on to teach him and remind myself 😂 😂 thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
I like Semi Synchro and Manual. I like semi because sometimes I change front gear down when I reach a climb and it auto compensate in the back so my cadence remains the same.
Why not just use full synchro? Hit the button to bring your gears down for climbing? How does full synchro have any downsides? Full synchro allows you to be in any gear you want.
Interesting & clear explanation of how the Di2 works, but also confirmed I made the right choice by sticking with mechanical Ultegra on my Oltre (would rather have Campagnolo tho!). Nice looking at the Celeste Bianchi, but the screen saver in the background was a bit distracting. Thanks again for great content. I am subcribed, not sure if you can tell from your end...
Mechanical is no fuss no mess! I had Di2 back in 2009. It was awesome but 8 years later the novelty wore off and now all my bikes are mechanical. Sorry about the screen saver! Good tip I will turn off the monitor next time. I am not able to see who has subscribed past the 90 day mark. Thank you for your subscription please share my vids when appropriate
It would be good to get an idea of the 'Use Case' scenarios and why you would use. Have had my first Di2 (Ultegra 12sp) bike for a few weeks now and tried the S1 mode for the first time today. I didn't really enjoy it, seems ok on the flat or when changing up to the big ring, but It does not seem so smooth when you are under load, or going up hill changing to the little front ring. Just doesn't feel smooth on your pedal stroke. In terms of the setup, it is actually easier now as you can just change the modes shift modes on your Garmin.
Personally I don’t ever use any synchro modes. I would rather shift the way I want to shift. To be honest I can’t think of any use case to use synchronized shifting. I’ve had Di2 twice in 2009 the original Di2 10 speed and then again the 11 speed. I prefer 11 speed R9100 Dura- Ace mechanical shifting. It’s a shame the bike industry is forcing riders to ride electronic and disc brakes.
I'm your typical older gent that doesn't accept change as quickly as younger generations. That said when I first got my Dura-Ace Di2 I didn't care for the auto shifting functions so I was using manual. Well, I had a big problem right away when I was riding along not paying attention and I was in the big ring up front and the large cog in the rear, it put to much stress on the derailleur and busted the carbon cage apart. I had to buy a half of the cage which was around $110 and took 4 months to get. I knew going into this that the lead time was going to be long so I bought another new rear derailleur so I could ride my bike. I finally repaired the broken RD so now I have a spare but after all this it got me using the full syncro mode so I never cross chain again. That Dura-Ace cage should have been made out of aluminum, not carbon and is just more proof to me that carbon has very limited applications for use on a bicycle. Expensive lessons learned.
If I’ve said it once I’ve said it 1,000 times with carbon it’s not a matter of IF but a matter of when. In the long run it might be good to have a spare rear derailleur. They are the most likely component to get destroyed when you crash or drop a bike. Also when they “upgrade” groups you might run into incompatibility issues.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Shimano has already released a new group, the 9200. Mine is the 9170 11 speed. So yeah, you are correct. I am future proofed. I also know how to rebuild the battery should mine go bad. Time will tell with the other components. I just know I will not spend another $3000 for a groupset again. I will most likely be one of those guys that buy the 105 Di2 if I have no other options. The industry sure has learned how to get our money. It's funny because my first road bike lasted me 22 years and I think anyone who has bought a bike in the last 5 or 10 years won't get that kind of life out of a bike if they ride every day like I do.
Full synchronous shifting mode seems like the best Choice. Why would you ever not want this? It makes cross chaining impossible and makes you always have just the easiest shifting. One button for up and one button for down. Easy
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad it’s dosnt shift for you. You still have to do all of the shifting. All synchronous mode does is control the balance between the front rings and the rear cassette. This is done to prevent cross chaining, decreases in efficiency, premature wear, interruptions in cadence/power, etc. …. Basically you still have full control of all your gears and can shift into any of your 22 or 24 gears you wish. The bike dosnt shift for you at all. The mode makes it where you don’t have to think about the overlap between the gears. “Two Sets of Gears: One way to think of this to keep it uncomplicated is to think of yourself as having a bike with two different sets of gears. When you leave the chain on the small chainring and only make rear shifts, think of yourself as using your lower/easier set of gears. And when you shift onto and leave the chain on the large chainring, and only make rear shifts, think that you are now using your higher/harder gears. Which chainring you’re on determines whether you’re in your low or high set of gears. In actuality the gearing on double-chainring bicycles usually overlaps which means if you wanted to hit each progressively harder or easier gear, it would require shifting between rings, not just leaving it on one.” This is the point of the synchronous di2 functionality. In order to move from the lowest possible gear to the highest possible gear the sequence involves overlap and you technically need to be changing the front large and small rings while simultaneously continuing to change the rear casset gears.
@@thepatternforms859 so if i understand you correctly shifting rear gears as you normally would do and leaving front gears to auto sync with your rear gears
Best video on Di2 shifting and synchro set-up!
Thank You for watching! Please like and share. And please consider subscribing
Good, CLEAR, explanation George!
Thank You Michael!
Great video and explanation of how the Di2 system works.
I’m glad you found value in the video! Please consider subscribing
Finally a straight forward explanation thank you
You’re Welcome and thanks for watching! Please share it!
Very well explained, many thanks.👍
You’re Welcome! Funny thing the other day I couldn’t remember how to get the different modes on a customer’s bike so I put my video on to teach him and remind myself 😂 😂 thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
Excellent explanation. I just set my Ultegra Di2 to full synchro to try for a while. I'm notorious for cross chaining.
Thank you for your feedback! I’m glad I was able to help you. Thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
Very helpful, thanks!
You’re Welcome thanks for watching please consider subscribing
I created this video be sis I didn’t like the other videos I saw on RUclips.
Thank you! Great video!
You’re Welcome ! Thank you for watching please consider subscribing
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad i did just now
@@culticfrog Thank You for subscribing!
thank you very much for the explanation!!!
You are welcome!
thanks for watching and please consider subscribing!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad already a subscriber..... used to work in a relative owned bike shop so i can relate a lot of things from your videos!
@@pantherv5 thank you for your support!
Share my vids when appropriate 😊
I like Semi Synchro and Manual. I like semi because sometimes I change front gear down when I reach a climb and it auto compensate in the back so my cadence remains the same.
And that was exactly the goal of semi synchro!
Thanks for watching
Why not just use full synchro? Hit the button to bring your gears down for climbing? How does full synchro have any downsides? Full synchro allows you to be in any gear you want.
Interesting & clear explanation of how the Di2 works, but also confirmed I made the right choice by sticking with mechanical Ultegra on my Oltre (would rather have Campagnolo tho!). Nice looking at the Celeste Bianchi, but the screen saver in the background was a bit distracting. Thanks again for great content. I am subcribed, not sure if you can tell from your end...
Mechanical is no fuss no mess! I had Di2 back in 2009. It was awesome but 8 years later the novelty wore off and now all my bikes are mechanical.
Sorry about the screen saver! Good tip I will turn off the monitor next time.
I am not able to see who has subscribed past the 90 day mark. Thank you for your subscription please share my vids when appropriate
Thank You
You’re Welcome thanks for watching please consider subscribing
It would be good to get an idea of the 'Use Case' scenarios and why you would use. Have had my first Di2 (Ultegra 12sp) bike for a few weeks now and tried the S1 mode for the first time today. I didn't really enjoy it, seems ok on the flat or when changing up to the big ring, but It does not seem so smooth when you are under load, or going up hill changing to the little front ring. Just doesn't feel smooth on your pedal stroke. In terms of the setup, it is actually easier now as you can just change the modes shift modes on your Garmin.
Personally I don’t ever use any synchro modes. I would rather shift the way I want to shift. To be honest I can’t think of any use case to use synchronized shifting. I’ve had Di2 twice in 2009 the original Di2 10 speed and then again the 11 speed. I prefer 11 speed R9100 Dura- Ace mechanical shifting. It’s a shame the bike industry is forcing riders to ride electronic and disc brakes.
Yes this made sense !!!
Wonderful! Thanks for watching! Please consider subscribing
I'm your typical older gent that doesn't accept change as quickly as younger generations. That said when I first got my Dura-Ace Di2 I didn't care for the auto shifting functions so I was using manual. Well, I had a big problem right away when I was riding along not paying attention and I was in the big ring up front and the large cog in the rear, it put to much stress on the derailleur and busted the carbon cage apart. I had to buy a half of the cage which was around $110 and took 4 months to get. I knew going into this that the lead time was going to be long so I bought another new rear derailleur so I could ride my bike. I finally repaired the broken RD so now I have a spare but after all this it got me using the full syncro mode so I never cross chain again. That Dura-Ace cage should have been made out of aluminum, not carbon and is just more proof to me that carbon has very limited applications for use on a bicycle. Expensive lessons learned.
If I’ve said it once I’ve said it 1,000 times with carbon it’s not a matter of IF but a matter of when. In the long run it might be good to have a spare rear derailleur. They are the most likely component to get destroyed when you crash or drop a bike. Also when they “upgrade” groups you might run into incompatibility issues.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Shimano has already released a new group, the 9200. Mine is the 9170 11 speed. So yeah, you are correct. I am future proofed. I also know how to rebuild the battery should mine go bad. Time will tell with the other components. I just know I will not spend another $3000 for a groupset again. I will most likely be one of those guys that buy the 105 Di2 if I have no other options. The industry sure has learned how to get our money. It's funny because my first road bike lasted me 22 years and I think anyone who has bought a bike in the last 5 or 10 years won't get that kind of life out of a bike if they ride every day like I do.
@@charlesmansplaining it’s a damn money grab! The Retro Grouch is back to riding mechanical rim brake and will hold out as long as possible!
Cheers
Full synchronous shifting mode seems like the best Choice. Why would you ever not want this? It makes cross chaining impossible and makes you always have just the easiest shifting. One button for up and one button for down. Easy
It is absolutely the worst option for an experienced cyclist!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad can you explain what the issue is?
@@thepatternforms859 why would anyone ever want a bike to shift for them?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad it’s dosnt shift for you. You still have to do all of the shifting. All synchronous mode does is control the balance between the front rings and the rear cassette. This is done to prevent cross chaining, decreases in efficiency, premature wear, interruptions in cadence/power, etc. …. Basically you still have full control of all your gears and can shift into any of your 22 or 24 gears you wish. The bike dosnt shift for you at all. The mode makes it where you don’t have to think about the overlap between the gears.
“Two Sets of Gears:
One way to think of this to keep it uncomplicated is to think of yourself as having a bike with two different sets of gears. When you leave the chain on the small chainring and only make rear shifts, think of yourself as using your lower/easier set of gears.
And when you shift onto and leave the chain on the large chainring, and only make rear shifts, think that you are now using your higher/harder gears. Which chainring you’re on determines whether you’re in your low or high set of gears.
In actuality the gearing on double-chainring bicycles usually overlaps which means if you wanted to hit each progressively harder or easier gear, it would require shifting between rings, not just leaving it on one.”
This is the point of the synchronous di2 functionality.
In order to move from the lowest possible gear to the highest possible gear the sequence involves overlap and you technically need to be changing the front large and small rings while simultaneously continuing to change the rear casset gears.
@@thepatternforms859 so if i understand you correctly shifting rear gears as you normally would do and leaving front gears to auto sync with your rear gears