Видео

@@AStamp3r yes. I rode through the night on the 600km brevet mentioned in the video.

It’s a great rack I’m glad I have it!

yes yes yes! lol🤣

@@nycdrummingstar thanks for watching

@@jasoncutter7017 cool place and I’m surprised it’s still open with all the streaming services available

@@jasoncutter7017 yep 👍

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad A guy in a truck almost hit me near there once. He said I cut him off while he was doing 65. I asked why he was doing 20 mph over the speed limit?

@@jasoncutter7017 but you were on a bicycle so YOU were in the wrong ... that's how these people think

I like easy measuring devices

Yes indeed! I see the most neglected high-end bikes come from our triathlete brothers and sisters. They have 3 sports and the bike is just one of the three. For you and I the bike is THE thing the ONLY thing 🤣

MG? as in Morgan Blue? I am not familiar with "MG"

MG Chemicals White Lithium Grease, very slick and does not gunk up. I used it for many years with my older caged cup loose ball bearings bottom brackets, was smooth as butter. Now I use it for any spinning or moving contact parts on all my aluminum and carbon bikes.

Thank You for watching please consider subscribing

Clamp looks to be an alloy, as it is scratched. But I have seen alloy clamps on carbon rails from Specialised and so far no problem. Interesting point. This looks like a lucky break :) Be well

@@l2l791 I think it has more to do with the clamping area and shape of the clamp than the material. Alloy clamps are fine if they're the right shape and contact area and the pressure can be controlled. Carbon is always tricky to clamp.

​@@robertwhyte3435probably true, with the caveat that metal clamps should be nice and smooth. Definitely can't have any burrs, that will damage the carbon.

Yep 👍

That’s a Torx because the thru-axle came in stripped.

I think someone commented that as new models roll out they are improving battery life and efficiency. The 1400+ is newer hence it has better spec.

@@mikenorris992000 I’m glad it wasn’t just me then. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing

@@nycdrummingstar I like that! Coffee table!

i've been thinking about this for two days now (which tells you a lot about how many problems i have) and i'd give it a 1% chance this is this light's output. if they had the highest efficiency leds and driver (phillips tled, 200 lumens/watt), they would need 28 watthours energy to have 450 lumens for 12.5 hours. the much more heavy (379 g vs. 230) wuben x1 does 397 lumens for 12 hours, and with that light the battery capacity is a known quantity. (two 21700 cells) lezyne doesn't even disclose battery capacity; they tell us 5200 mAh, but that's ambiguous, as we don't know whether they mean it at 3.7 volts or 7.2. my guess is 3.7 volts, and then they have 19 watthours, which means it's impossible that they specified output for 12.5 hours is true

@@markifi Good that you make all these calculation. The fact I have this light and a bunch of others. I was planning a six months bikepacking trip a year ago. And ended up trying a few different headlight units. Lezyne 1400+, Lezyne 1200+, Ravemen 2000 and a couple of Magicshine. None of the lights I tested matching the burn time according to the spec. In the case of this Lezyne 1400+. I got 9.5 hours for the 450 lumens setting. Looking at the size of it. I guess it uses 18650 cells, instead of 21700.

@@CrabgrassFarmer well now it makes sense! Thank you for helping me understand the table. The 1400+ is their newest (back in April when I shot this video)

Just having fun with non-cycling content 🤣

@@gregtitus2467 correct! The key is no disruption in the pace of the line. However, I maintain that “soft pedaling” is optimal because 1. It’s easier to go from 50 rpm back to 90 rpm than it is from 0 rpm. 2. If you have inexperienced riders in the paceline “monkey see monkey do” if one rider stops pedaling others may as well. 3. This is an old video so I don’t know if I mentioned it but when someone stops pedaling I’m looking for why/what might have caused that rider to stop pedaling ie dangerous situation? Thanks for watching please consider subscribing

@@Miraflores1990 😂 😂

@@MARIOPALOMAREZ1 boom! 💥 thanks for watching Mario

Thanks for watching Ellery

Yessir! I do the same with threading the axle back into the bike. ESPECIALLY in the shop you don't want to lose track of an axle with multiple bikes in the repair process.

Thanks for watching Mark

ha ha -- 11 hours from dusk to dawn that's the time I needed the headlight. 1:24 I talk about sunset and sunrise

I'm confused

@SeeYouUpTheRoad the sign behind you. Just a weird fact that we have a Paris in Denmark. It's probably under 50 people that lives there

Wow I didn’t know that! The sign behind me is from Paris Brest Paris (1226 km 12,000 meters) these sign were on the route so you didn’t need to use navigation on your cycling computer. The other side of the sign says Brest 😊

QR don't have these issues :-) Thanks for watching Lloyd please consider subscribing 🙂

Congrats! They were one of the first mass produced heat moldable shoes.

😭😭

Wow thanks for the tips! Sounds like you’ve had some experience with this nightmarish situation 😂 thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.

@@mkenyon7429 nice I like it!

@@WowRixter washers help spread the load and also helps prevents something coming loose. I would use them 🙂

Aww thank you Jay!

Assuming you are talking about through axle, and not old school bolt on wheels. The torque specs on through axles are really conservative, because they are meant to be reinstalled in the field without a calibrated torque wrench when you get a flat. You won't break anything going 1-2nm or so tighter or so if you do it precisely with good properly calibrated torque wrench. As a tech TA's coming loose is not something I see customers coming in complaining about. Some thoughts (1) If its a MTB fork check for a pinch bolt and make sure that is torqued after torquing the axel. (2) Id suspect partially damaged threads, mismatched thread pitch, or poor design or choice of thread pitch on the TA . (3) I have seen an axel that was in fact tight, and when properly torqued was actually lose because of damaged mating threads on the frame preventing it from fully closing, and compressing the hub. This manifested as lateral play in the wheel (like when a hub is loose). I would look for damaged threads on the axel, and frame. (4). If you do use lock tight as a last resort. Use the low-med strength stuff that doesn't need heat to remove. I would still use grease, just keep it off the threads, and put only a drop of loctite in the receiving threads on frame.

@@emilycs8823 Thanks, yeah - it was my first time on new modern thru-axles... being a rim brake enthusiast!.. but the brand-new (quality) gravel bike had these. Noticed it after the first few rides on it with the front wheel wobbling side to side, was torqued to spec by my wrench 6-8nm (went for 7) for sure. It may have been the newness coming through... the bearings or end caps bedding in minutely, loosening the torque, allowing it to come loose. I checked and re-installed it and slightly over torqued to 9nm and it hasn't done it again- really disconcerting though, is this really a thing that can happen with this design - doesn't seem too safe compared to the usual qr or rws type used before. The only other type I've used similar had 15nm on a lefty stub axle, never had an issue with that, and I've noticed other similar looking thru-axles use 12nm - so possibly the specced 7nm is not enough.

This is interesting. It isn’t anything I’ve seen from personal bikes to customer bikes. But never say never

​@nellyx1x493 I'm shocked it was spec'd that low. I have three bikes and all three are at least 12nm. And, I've never had them come lose.

@@nellyx1x493 9nm is the lowest I have ever seen specced on a through axle. That being said thread size/pitch, and coefficient of friction, and thread lubrication are also major parts of determining clamping force, alongside torque. When there isn't a spec on the axel, I almost always default to about 12-13nm. A firm twist of a park 3 way, y hex wrench gets pretty close to this.

Most anti-seize or copper slip, I think that’s what the UK calls it, is extremely messy to work with. I wouldn’t want to use it on a part or component I anticipate removing often or under normal operations. (Old video new upload) issue resolved and yes it is a total time waster when a 10 minute repair turns into a 3 day evolution

@@emilycs8823 grr 😠 thanks for watching. And yes if the rear wheel is already installed once they pull the bike out of the box it may not be removed for many months. Consider when it was installed in the far east then sits in a box then sits on a shelf then eventually a customer months years down the road finally has to remove it.

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I have had to crack through axles loose on brand new bikes out of the box, including this same frame. The sound it makes always makes me cringe.

@@dorohmc thanks for watching. It’s more common than you might imagine here in a bike shop 😭

I like maxima on axles. It spreads out really nicely, and is very tacky, and lasts a long time.

@ tacky… will it be hard to brush away dirt/sand without removing the grease when out in the field and as always the thru-axle falls in the sand?

​@@SeeYouUpTheRoad If It gets dirty I just wipe it off and re apply. I don't think it picks up dirt any worse than any other grease, since they all do. I think its important to be cautious about cleaning off through axles if dropped. I have seen frames get stripped out from grit getting in threads.

Thanks for watching please consider subscribing

@@DDai-qd8uk 😂 😂

@@dominicbritt Thank You Dominic

@@ColoCX oh no! That’s not good either! Thanks for watching please consider subscribing

@@SuperOlds88 ha ha that’s my job - experimenting with tubeless sealants so you don’t have to. Regarding the plug it’s a complete waste of time to worry about the tail of the plug. No need to cut it or event think about it. You put it in and you roll away. 🙂🙃🙂🙃

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I see, ok thanks for addressing my question.

@ my pleasure! It’s made of rubber and it just mushes down.

I love it! Thank you for sharing your experience! I’ll use this testimonial for my customers.