I lube the threads. Same for lug nuts. otherwise they corrode and seize. It also ensures you are getting the proper torque when fastening. Impact on the fastener may shock the corrosion fee. You will have to be graceful with the trigger if you use an impact driver.
When I want to see bikes that are expensive but rarely get maintained I go to a triathlon. Idk if this is just my personal George but you probably see way more of these than I do lol😂. Happy new year and thanks for the tips!
Yes indeed! I see the most neglected high-end bikes come from our triathlete brothers and sisters. They have 3 sports and the bike is just one of the three. For you and I the bike is THE thing the ONLY thing 🤣
Through axles need grease even more than old quick releases to keep from corroding. Oh Freeze the axle and hub with a can of cold air then heat to help move the parts and may be break the corrosion. Worth a try.
😂 And people are still not paying attention you have to use MG White Lithium grease on those treads. And the issue with these stuck wheels is if you use heat temporarily to try removing the wheel you have to be very careful as that is an area you do not want to delaminate. I would seriously use kapton tape around that circle area to protect it from the heat and only target the aluminium insert.
MG Chemicals White Lithium Grease, very slick and does not gunk up. I used it for many years with my older caged cup loose ball bearings bottom brackets, was smooth as butter. Now I use it for any spinning or moving contact parts on all my aluminum and carbon bikes.
@@emilycs8823 grr 😠 thanks for watching. And yes if the rear wheel is already installed once they pull the bike out of the box it may not be removed for many months. Consider when it was installed in the far east then sits in a box then sits on a shelf then eventually a customer months years down the road finally has to remove it.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I have had to crack through axles loose on brand new bikes out of the box, including this same frame. The sound it makes always makes me cringe.
If the penetrant does not work, I would like to suggest 2 options. 1) Impact wrench. Sometimes the impact motion can loosen it just enough. 2) Consider using a turbo lighter. A lighter that has a very small and sharp flame tip. Heat up only the axle, be very careful not to touch the carbon fork. That might help. Whether it is galvanic corrosion due to 2 dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum) or rust corrosion due to water intrusion, heat and/or impact might work.
I've been out of cycling so long I don't know anything about thru axles nor how they work. My last bike is from 2001, a Schwinn Fastback Factory road bike, with QR axles of course.
luckily all my stuff is still equipped with a quick release although i do make a point of not putting other people's axles in the dirt while helping out at occasional puncture repairs. the axle stays with the bike, threaded in a turn or two.
Yessir! I do the same with threading the axle back into the bike. ESPECIALLY in the shop you don't want to lose track of an axle with multiple bikes in the repair process.
Surprising to see this. At least for me, wheels and thus thru axels are removed every few weeks to clean the bike. Using a high quality grease seems to last for many months.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad If It gets dirty I just wipe it off and re apply. I don't think it picks up dirt any worse than any other grease, since they all do. I think its important to be cautious about cleaning off through axles if dropped. I have seen frames get stripped out from grit getting in threads.
Who else has had a bolted thru-axle come loose during normal riding, even after being torqued to spec? I can't be the only one... I actually removed most of the grease from mine in preference to having to threadlock it... brand new bike, may be the newness... or a dodgy axle perhaps?
Assuming you are talking about through axle, and not old school bolt on wheels. The torque specs on through axles are really conservative, because they are meant to be reinstalled in the field without a calibrated torque wrench when you get a flat. You won't break anything going 1-2nm or so tighter or so if you do it precisely with good properly calibrated torque wrench. As a tech TA's coming loose is not something I see customers coming in complaining about. Some thoughts (1) If its a MTB fork check for a pinch bolt and make sure that is torqued after torquing the axel. (2) Id suspect partially damaged threads, mismatched thread pitch, or poor design or choice of thread pitch on the TA . (3) I have seen an axel that was in fact tight, and when properly torqued was actually lose because of damaged mating threads on the frame preventing it from fully closing, and compressing the hub. This manifested as lateral play in the wheel (like when a hub is loose). I would look for damaged threads on the axel, and frame. (4). If you do use lock tight as a last resort. Use the low-med strength stuff that doesn't need heat to remove. I would still use grease, just keep it off the threads, and put only a drop of loctite in the receiving threads on frame.
@@emilycs8823 Thanks, yeah - it was my first time on new modern thru-axles... being a rim brake enthusiast!.. but the brand-new (quality) gravel bike had these. Noticed it after the first few rides on it with the front wheel wobbling side to side, was torqued to spec by my wrench 6-8nm (went for 7) for sure. It may have been the newness coming through... the bearings or end caps bedding in minutely, loosening the torque, allowing it to come loose. I checked and re-installed it and slightly over torqued to 9nm and it hasn't done it again- really disconcerting though, is this really a thing that can happen with this design - doesn't seem too safe compared to the usual qr or rws type used before. The only other type I've used similar had 15nm on a lefty stub axle, never had an issue with that, and I've noticed other similar looking thru-axles use 12nm - so possibly the specced 7nm is not enough.
@@nellyx1x493 9nm is the lowest I have ever seen specced on a through axle. That being said thread size/pitch, and coefficient of friction, and thread lubrication are also major parts of determining clamping force, alongside torque. When there isn't a spec on the axel, I almost always default to about 12-13nm. A firm twist of a park 3 way, y hex wrench gets pretty close to this.
Out of curiosity, is there any benefit to using anti-sieze vs grease? I work on my cars a lot and have a tube of anti-sieze on hand. Maybe cost? Grease comes in tubs vs tiny tubes? Great tip...if you use thru-axels 😝 Good luck btw....bolt extraction always turns small jobs into annoying ones
Most anti-seize or copper slip, I think that’s what the UK calls it, is extremely messy to work with. I wouldn’t want to use it on a part or component I anticipate removing often or under normal operations. (Old video new upload) issue resolved and yes it is a total time waster when a 10 minute repair turns into a 3 day evolution
I lube the threads. Same for lug nuts. otherwise they corrode and seize. It also ensures you are getting the proper torque when fastening.
Impact on the fastener may shock the corrosion fee. You will have to be graceful with the trigger if you use an impact driver.
Thank You for watching please consider subscribing
When I want to see bikes that are expensive but rarely get maintained I go to a triathlon. Idk if this is just my personal George but you probably see way more of these than I do lol😂. Happy new year and thanks for the tips!
Yes indeed! I see the most neglected high-end bikes come from our triathlete brothers and sisters. They have 3 sports and the bike is just one of the three. For you and I the bike is THE thing the ONLY thing 🤣
Through axles need grease even more than old quick releases to keep from corroding. Oh Freeze the axle and hub with a can of cold air then heat to help move the parts and may be break the corrosion. Worth a try.
@@mkenyon7429 nice I like it!
😂 And people are still not paying attention you have to use MG White Lithium grease on those treads. And the issue with these stuck wheels is if you use heat temporarily to try removing the wheel you have to be very careful as that is an area you do not want to delaminate. I would seriously use kapton tape around that circle area to protect it from the heat and only target the aluminium insert.
MG? as in Morgan Blue? I am not familiar with "MG"
MG Chemicals White Lithium Grease, very slick and does not gunk up. I used it for many years with my older caged cup loose ball bearings bottom brackets, was smooth as butter. Now I use it for any spinning or moving contact parts on all my aluminum and carbon bikes.
Not putting a dab of grease on through axles is one of the most common corners people cut on new bike builds.
@@emilycs8823 grr 😠 thanks for watching. And yes if the rear wheel is already installed once they pull the bike out of the box it may not be removed for many months. Consider when it was installed in the far east then sits in a box then sits on a shelf then eventually a customer months years down the road finally has to remove it.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I have had to crack through axles loose on brand new bikes out of the box, including this same frame. The sound it makes always makes me cringe.
If the penetrant does not work, I would like to suggest 2 options. 1) Impact wrench. Sometimes the impact motion can loosen it just enough. 2) Consider using a turbo lighter. A lighter that has a very small and sharp flame tip. Heat up only the axle, be very careful not to touch the carbon fork. That might help. Whether it is galvanic corrosion due to 2 dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum) or rust corrosion due to water intrusion, heat and/or impact might work.
Wow thanks for the tips! Sounds like you’ve had some experience with this nightmarish situation 😂 thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
T handle Allen would be the last thing I'd use for this
That’s a Torx because the thru-axle came in stripped.
I've been out of cycling so long I don't know anything about thru axles nor how they work. My last bike is from 2001, a Schwinn Fastback Factory road bike, with QR axles of course.
QR don't have these issues :-) Thanks for watching Lloyd please consider subscribing 🙂
luckily all my stuff is still equipped with a quick release although i do make a point of not putting other people's axles in the dirt while helping out at occasional puncture repairs. the axle stays with the bike, threaded in a turn or two.
Yessir! I do the same with threading the axle back into the bike. ESPECIALLY in the shop you don't want to lose track of an axle with multiple bikes in the repair process.
Surprising to see this. At least for me, wheels and thus thru axels are removed every few weeks to clean the bike. Using a high quality grease seems to last for many months.
@@dorohmc thanks for watching. It’s more common than you might imagine here in a bike shop 😭
I like maxima on axles. It spreads out really nicely, and is very tacky, and lasts a long time.
@ tacky… will it be hard to brush away dirt/sand without removing the grease when out in the field and as always the thru-axle falls in the sand?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad If It gets dirty I just wipe it off and re apply. I don't think it picks up dirt any worse than any other grease, since they all do. I think its important to be cautious about cleaning off through axles if dropped. I have seen frames get stripped out from grit getting in threads.
Whoa. I'm going to have to get on that. BTW, how necessary are the 0.50mm washers between the thru axle and the frame or fork?
@@WowRixter washers help spread the load and also helps prevents something coming loose. I would use them 🙂
Who else has had a bolted thru-axle come loose during normal riding, even after being torqued to spec? I can't be the only one... I actually removed most of the grease from mine in preference to having to threadlock it... brand new bike, may be the newness... or a dodgy axle perhaps?
Assuming you are talking about through axle, and not old school bolt on wheels. The torque specs on through axles are really conservative, because they are meant to be reinstalled in the field without a calibrated torque wrench when you get a flat. You won't break anything going 1-2nm or so tighter or so if you do it precisely with good properly calibrated torque wrench. As a tech TA's coming loose is not something I see customers coming in complaining about. Some thoughts (1) If its a MTB fork check for a pinch bolt and make sure that is torqued after torquing the axel. (2) Id suspect partially damaged threads, mismatched thread pitch, or poor design or choice of thread pitch on the TA . (3) I have seen an axel that was in fact tight, and when properly torqued was actually lose because of damaged mating threads on the frame preventing it from fully closing, and compressing the hub. This manifested as lateral play in the wheel (like when a hub is loose). I would look for damaged threads on the axel, and frame. (4). If you do use lock tight as a last resort. Use the low-med strength stuff that doesn't need heat to remove. I would still use grease, just keep it off the threads, and put only a drop of loctite in the receiving threads on frame.
@@emilycs8823 Thanks, yeah - it was my first time on new modern thru-axles... being a rim brake enthusiast!.. but the brand-new (quality) gravel bike had these. Noticed it after the first few rides on it with the front wheel wobbling side to side, was torqued to spec by my wrench 6-8nm (went for 7) for sure. It may have been the newness coming through... the bearings or end caps bedding in minutely, loosening the torque, allowing it to come loose. I checked and re-installed it and slightly over torqued to 9nm and it hasn't done it again- really disconcerting though, is this really a thing that can happen with this design - doesn't seem too safe compared to the usual qr or rws type used before. The only other type I've used similar had 15nm on a lefty stub axle, never had an issue with that, and I've noticed other similar looking thru-axles use 12nm - so possibly the specced 7nm is not enough.
This is interesting. It isn’t anything I’ve seen from personal bikes to customer bikes. But never say never
@nellyx1x493 I'm shocked it was spec'd that low. I have three bikes and all three are at least 12nm. And, I've never had them come lose.
@@nellyx1x493 9nm is the lowest I have ever seen specced on a through axle. That being said thread size/pitch, and coefficient of friction, and thread lubrication are also major parts of determining clamping force, alongside torque. When there isn't a spec on the axel, I almost always default to about 12-13nm. A firm twist of a park 3 way, y hex wrench gets pretty close to this.
Out of curiosity, is there any benefit to using anti-sieze vs grease? I work on my cars a lot and have a tube of anti-sieze on hand. Maybe cost? Grease comes in tubs vs tiny tubes?
Great tip...if you use thru-axels 😝
Good luck btw....bolt extraction always turns small jobs into annoying ones
Most anti-seize or copper slip, I think that’s what the UK calls it, is extremely messy to work with. I wouldn’t want to use it on a part or component I anticipate removing often or under normal operations.
(Old video new upload) issue resolved and yes it is a total time waster when a 10 minute repair turns into a 3 day evolution
Teflon grease all over the place, even the brake pads 🎉🎉
@@Miraflores1990 😂 😂
Haha.Mr.Pink broke his client bike.Now his gonna pay for the damage
😭😭