I've been trying to figure out what sort of boost/temp box that is on the steering wheel. Is that some sort of aftermarket production, or is it just an obscure mil-spec part?
The box for the gages came from a guy that goes by peashooter on the steel soldiers web site. If you do a search that site you should find him and be able to send him a private message.
why didnt you use a stainless or copper fuel line ,,,,,plastic will get brittle in time , especially in cold weather climate.......good luck.............
I have the original plastic fuel line installed since min 30Years and there is not the smallest sign of getting brittle. It seems to be a very good long live plastic.....
Several actually. They quick version is that the FDC is of marginal benefit (especially if you have a boost gauge and pyrometer and control based on reasonable fuel flow limits) as it was intended to make the engine act the same, regardless of a wide variety of fuels and compensate based on viscosity, to make the fuel pedal "feel" the same regardless. The pedal is also more consistent as the error in the FDC will make the engine act a bit erratically, especially as it warms up as the viscosity of the fuel changes. The FDC is also a potential leak point that allows fuel to spill into the engine oil, which is not good; so bypassing it avoids that possibility. It also effectively "turns up" the fuel a bit at all but the top of the range as the viscosity bleed-off is not happening and using a pyro to watch EGT's to back out it it when need be.
I think it is more accurate to say that it boosts power all over, yet generally more at the low-mid range vs. the high range. You are convoluting MPG or fuel efficiency and mixture issues. The multifuel is a turbo-diesel (I’ll leapfrog over the non-turbo versions as they smoked like Keith Richards); it has no throttle; they are fuel flow (and time with more modern controls) controlled. They run as lean as they can under the circumstances and under light loads they run much leaner than any gas engine can. .
Yoo, I did this to mine 2 days ago and holy cow it pulls now. Feels so much more powerful. I wish I knew about this years ago.
I really appreciate your videos covering your deuce and a half modification and service adventures. Big help and loads of inspiration.
Truck sounds great man
Thanks for the vids! Very informative! Learning how to upgrade my duece!
"I think I just craped my pants" LOL
I've been trying to figure out what sort of boost/temp box that is on the steering wheel. Is that some sort of aftermarket production, or is it just an obscure mil-spec part?
The box for the gages came from a guy that goes by peashooter on the steel soldiers web site. If you do a search that site you should find him and be able to send him a private message.
Disconnect your WGA (Waste Gate Actuator), you'll get plenty of boost then!
How much of a difference was it driving
Your boost gauge is off... It should read at least 1-2 psi at idle
why didnt you use a stainless or copper fuel line ,,,,,plastic will get brittle in time , especially in cold weather climate.......good luck.............
The factory lines were plastic so that's what I replaced them with.
I have the original plastic fuel line installed since min 30Years and there is not the smallest sign of getting brittle. It seems to be a very good long live plastic.....
And copper is shit, when you use plant oil for fuel... The acids let's grow copper acetate sludge. Not good for fine injection mechanics.
Why? What's the benefit?
Several actually. They quick version is that the FDC is of marginal benefit (especially if you have a boost gauge and pyrometer and control based on reasonable fuel flow limits) as it was intended to make the engine act the same, regardless of a wide variety of fuels and compensate based on viscosity, to make the fuel pedal "feel" the same regardless. The pedal is also more consistent as the error in the FDC will make the engine act a bit erratically, especially as it warms up as the viscosity of the fuel changes. The FDC is also a potential leak point that allows fuel to spill into the engine oil, which is not good; so bypassing it avoids that possibility. It also effectively "turns up" the fuel a bit at all but the top of the range as the viscosity bleed-off is not happening and using a pyro to watch EGT's to back out it it when need be.
I think it is more accurate to say that it boosts power all over, yet generally more at the low-mid range vs. the high range.
You are convoluting MPG or fuel efficiency and mixture issues. The multifuel is a turbo-diesel (I’ll leapfrog over the non-turbo versions as they smoked like Keith Richards); it has no throttle; they are fuel flow (and time with more modern controls) controlled. They run as lean as they can under the circumstances and under light loads they run much leaner than any gas engine can.
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