WOW. Sent mine in 3 times and I swear they sent me refurbed crap that had the same problem still. I just finished this repair a few days ago and it worked perfectly. Thank you so much!
scary opening one of these up first time. the force needed at first makes you sweat a bit, but spot on advising the plastic pry tools. left no noticeable damage at all.👍
thank you so much! here's a tip for the domes for the analog sticks. when removing them for the first time it will be quite resistant when attempting to initially twist them off, as there is thread lock applied. use the actual analog thumbsticks as leverage and twist them on top of the domes. go slow at first until you feel them give way! then pick up the pace little by little! :) oh btw counter clockwise - lefty loosey, righty tighty
So disappointed that for such a high price, the sticks are still read by wear prone potentiometers with just metal grinding on graphite. My Microsoft Joystick from 20!!! years ago already had optical position measurement, that never wears out. Microsoft really cheaping out here.
Yeah they even fucked people Here the board is really thick that houses the rb lb so you need a very hot soldering iron They totally pull this shit purposefully
My biggest problem with the elite 2 has been the bumpers. Maybe I just yank em too hard, playing rocket league, but I've had this guy replaced/repaired three times from bumper failure.
Hall effect is the best way, there is a company that recently released a new controller with hall effect. Only for pc and android for now, but soon we will have it for consoles I'm sure.
I just got to say your video and only your video. Was the only video that explained what those two little plastic pieces were 5:51 for 4 hours straight. Not a single website or the iFixit app told me what those two little pieces were. For 4 hours!😢 but your video was the only one that had a absolute answer. So thank you man for that I'm following you.
I had a small piece of plastic in mine that was rattling around, managed to open it up and remove it with no issues. Little tip, I used the larger paddles that come with the controller to open it up as I don't have any of those plastic pry tools. The paddles were a good substitute and didn't cause any damage.
Helpful, thank you. My right trigger started to stick. The little stick on pad on the fin of the trigger came loose and the adhesive was exposed. I took off the tiny pad and reapplied with some super glue, which actually increased the height of the pad and decreased the travel a bit, which is nice for quick shots.
Yoooooo, my right trigger started getting sticky too and i have yet to find out why. I've ALWAYS been careful with my hands, never played whilst dirty so hopefully it's something small i can fix...
Thank you so much for this. I'm on my 4th elite series 2 since 2019. I've been having them replaced under warranty and every single one has this A-button issue. My latest replacement had the A-button issue and a sticking right analog stick. The dark silver dome was catching on the case so I had to scrape it down with a razor blade. I used tiny little circular foam sticky pads that would normally be used on the bottom of something to protect a table. My only regret was not doing the other buttons because the response on the A button is amazing now. Barely have to press it. It's so nice to be done with exchanging controllers every few months. I'm pretty sure they were just sending me other people's rejects.
I'm in the same boat. I was considering sending off my 3rd controller (this one with an unresponsive A, X AND Y) and get a 4th, but if there's a chance they'll just send me one with the same problem PLUS a thumb stick issue like yours, I'm tempted to order this kit for $10 from Amazon and fix darn thing myself. Everything else about the controller works like a dream, but this problem has just been infuriating.
I don't know why everyone had issues. I've had mine for I think 4 years now and the only 2 issues I've had is my lb going out(still works but not very consistent) and the grip trying to come off in a couple places. Other than that, 0 issues and I've put probably somewhere around to 5000 hours on it if not more.
Thank you! I just bought an Elite 2 controller and about 8.5/10 presses would work for the A button. I almost returned it after hearing it's a common issue. After your fix though it hasn't missed one!
Informative video overall, but it's definitely not the best way to take off the faceplate. If you start on the sides it's very easy to damage the rubber on the edges, instead just insert the prying tool between the faceplate and shoulder buttons and start there. Once the top part is unclipped you can carefully pry the rest with fingers - much faster, easier, and doesn't damage the edges.
@@jonnyditto4440 it’s in the thread so you need to unscrew it. You can use the stick to make it easier (long one gives the most grip). It’s on there pretty tight though.
@@bezrodnyigor yeah I ended up having to use a thumbstick I dont plan on using (the tall one) and taking a pair of pliers to get it loose. It had to of been the most annoying part tbh
if you have a rubber grip, def. use that to hold onto the thumb stick. WAY easier to unscrew it that way. Hands were slipping a lot when i first did this.
Thank you greatly for this video. I bought 2 of these and both had the A button issue with one of them having the issue on the B button as well. Followed your instructions and got it working perfect now. Thanks again.
I noticed two things, my controller right trigger was sticking all of the sudden and when I opened the controller I don't have all the screws you have! But for all you guys that may have the same issue as me look for a foam pad on the right side. It needs to be attached the controller chassis and not the trigger. So make sure to clean the area and make sure the pad is in place.
@@jordansilva3048 not gonna lie, make sure you got the tools because it is a tricky thing without them. Make sure you take your time and if something ain’t coming up then take a moment and check. Took me about an hour with most of the tools but you will seriously need needle nose tweezers for the pad. If you can get some crafting double sided tape even better to make sure it sticks back on and stays.
Thank you for explaining why the bumpers and triggers were interfering with each other. I was testing the alignment during re-assembly and could not figure it out for the life of me.
Thank you for your time with this because I dropped it from my desk and thought it was a goner and I took it all apart and the magnet just knocked loose and got stuck behind the trigger.
Thank you for the great video. It was exactly what I needed. Contrary to most peoples complaints with the series 2, I've put way too many hours on mine over the last year and a half and had 0 complaints. Until yesterday, when I was shuffling things around and my controller fell from my desk, and the sync button was jammed in crooked and would not release, causing it to be stuck in pairing mode constantly. I found I could use it wired, and could even unplug it once I was using it wired and it would stay connected, however I could imagine the sync button suddenly activating mid game, and I didn't buy a wireless controller to have to plug and unplug it everytime I connected it to my system. Was nervous about removing the faceplate to get access from below, but after a few minutes with a couple old plastic cards I was able to get it off and reach in with a pick to pop the button back into place. Would've rather not had the hassle at all, but glad in future if a more complex issue arises I will be more comfortable pulling it apart and have a go at it instead of just buying a replacement!
Here's a quick story on how i fixed some problems with my Elite Series 2 Controller : Tools: Knife and Torx T7 Security Screwdriver (Apparently they are T8 Security but my T7 bit worked ) Problem 1 : Right trigger sticky / clicky Solution : Open controller shell. Used Isopropanol Alcohol Pads. (They are pre soaked individual pads. Smaller version of a wet nap at a restaurant. ) Wiped all inside the triggers and the triggers themselves. Put shell back on, then pushed down a small piece of toilet paper between the outer side of the shell , and the trigger. Read that part carefully . Worked 100% properly and quiet afterwards Problem 2: B Button AND Xbox Button sticky and weren't responding every time Solution : Used those Iso Pads , and with the front shell off, used a super skinny knife and pushed the cotton iso pads between the buttons, making sure the liquid can get in-between. Press the button a bunch of times to let the alcohol clean the dirt. I repeated a few times as i noticed it kept getting better and better every time until it was smooth perfectly. Let dry then put back together. Never needed to open the 2 motherboards as i felt that step is risker plus i didnt have the smaller screwdriver honestly lol. My controller now feels brand new . Thanks for making this video, it allowed me to make sure i wasnt missing anything and gave me confidence to open and work on the controller.
Cool mat first off. You gave really good advice, best video of this topic in my opinion but I have two criticisms. One, It was hard to tell what you where doing because the video was sped up, especially when you are taking off the faceplate, the hardest part. Two, you skipped over the part where you took off the joystick domes. Other than that great video.
Great video man but God damn I couldn't get the thumb stick off, just wouldn't unscrew, good job I only needed to go as far as trying to sort out the shoulder buttons 👍
I had the strangest problem. My remote was unusable as every time I turned it on, the left and right sticks registered as activated it in like every direction. I bought the tolls you showed and it took me 3 minutes to fix. There are tiny little metal rods along the paddles that transfers the signal to the motherboard via a tiny metal sponge. The one on the right had slipped out and was attached to the sponge but it was laying across the motherboard. I hadn’t been able to find anything online about what cause the problem I was having and I think that’s cause what happened was a freak accident.
Why is this the exact same thing that happened to me, I am very much wary of taking apart my controller but I don’t want to just through away $200 like that.
@@notmerc Well tbh, it’s not worth it in the first place. It been a year since I posted that comment and since then, the bumpers inexplicably stoped working so I had to remap the paddles to be the bumpers. Then one of the bumpers just inexplicably stoped working so I had to use just the lower 2 paddles. Then the left joystick wouldn’t register as going forward if I had a joystick on it so I just can’t use the controller now. The sad truth of the matter is that Microsoft products are just built to break so that you have to pay them to fix it or replace it. And with the current debates on the right to repair I don’t see this problem being fixed for quite a while.
Great video. Took a bit of finagling but I managed to get the green board off without pulling the trigger out. I now have a fully working controller again. I’m glad I’m not doing this for a living though. It would only be a matter of time before I’d start taking hostages 😂
Helped me in 2022 with a S2 my buddy gave me. It had sticky something or other in the R trigger - also the L bumper was sticking when the faceplate was attached. Did some plastic surgery there and now it's perfect.
You don't need to remove the thumbs ticks. In fact best not to unless you are really needing too. Threads are so fine and soft, stripping threads is very likely
This helped me to get the front cover off so I could fix my bumper. It wasn't connecting with the RB button so I just shimmed a couple pieces of paper in there. Good as new lol. Strange how these problems always happen after the warranty is out lol
Thanks great video. My little one put my halo infinite elite controller through water, i threw it in rice for a week then tried using it. It worked for half a week but then started getting connection issues. Just bought a core elite 2 controller to swap the controller case and buttons.
I followed the tear instructions and the right thumbstick broke while trying to unscrew the dome. Broke as in it turned but never came off so that I could remove it. I said "good riddance" to this expensive mistake and tossed the elite series 2 controller in the trash. I switched to the controller that came with my Xbox Series X, which works perfectly!
Just found out my Halo Series 2 has that stupid A button problem. I got it as an early Christmas present and I can’t get it repaired without a proof of purchase. I believe the person who got it for me paid a scalper which I personally wouldn’t have done and doesn’t count as a valid proof of purchase. I am using the paper shim method right now to hold the button in the center but I will open it and fix it with a button shim like you did. I had a feeling a button shim would be enough and your video confirms this.
I managed to do this just fine without the kit, I’d recommend at least getting the special screw drivers though, only if it’s a non thumb stick related issue. If it’s a thumb stick issue you can just screw them out using a empty magnetic screw driver holder.
Good video, thanks! One little bit of feedback is...why would you speed up the video for such a detailed disassembly? I had to rewind and pause multiple times. Thanks!
Thanks for this I had a small bit of plastic shaking about on the inside of mine, by taking the front off I was able to remove it. The rubber on one of the grips is sadly peeling too which is annoying
Great video my controller had a stick issue where forward was rough and not smooth like it should be saw how the stick twisted in and after messing with it found out it was just slightly loose and needed to be tightened just a little bit smooth as can be now!
@@lucivity2759 started by putting the largest diameter stick on the one I needed to mess with then grabbed pushed in hard and twisted. left to disassemble right to tighten. It wasn't easy but it does turn. just remember if it doesn't hurt u aren't doing it right lol
My right bumper is unresponsive, as a quick fix I’ve assigned some of my paddles to rb and lb. Any advice on replacing the bumpers? I really don’t want to break the controller doing it myself.
My daughter dropped mines and now there’s a random piece floating around inside. Definitely getting these tools to help open my controller. Thanks again!
Lol I got the same issue XD. Was the floating piece important? It sounds like a loose screw, im worried that I should send it to Microsoft(still got warranty)
Thank you for the video. The one part I really needed to see (the removal of the bumper) is off screen. I'm really nervous about forcing that. It looks like there are thin plastic parts involved, and there doesn't look to be any kind of tab to life or anything. Any chance you could film and show that part?
Hey Matt if you are still having this problem try putting a piece of paper around the button to help with that instead of opening the controller up. Go into your game pad tester and hold the A button down. Try wiggling it left right up or down and see if it starts missing consistently in one direction (mine was to the right) then you know where your paper should be placed. I used a piece of paper that is 1cm long and 6mm tall. I can fish it out with a knife but also can't feel the paper while playing. Good luck!
Thank you, I've been trying to figure out how to get pry the cover plate and get the thumbsticks off so I could fix my stick drift. Unfortunately, it looks like my left one might be cross threaded as it never comes off, only switches between being hard and easy to turn lol. Luckily, my real issue was on the right stick and I was able to sort that out. Thanks for the vid!
@@ZombieNoble6ZNT the potentiometers for reading the stick movements are the 2 teal tabs mounted to the sides of the thumbsticks. I just stuck a small flathead between them to pop them slightly off, then reseated them. Drift was gone.
I got a xbox series x controller and the right thumbstick has a issue with it when rotating at full diameter. I opened the controller up and saw underneath the ring, there was a poor welding job done in which there was a micro piece of metal sticking out the corner of the thumbstick base. I grazed it off using a knife and it’s fixed now.
Not sure if anyone else had this happen but 2 of the screws on mine that attached the controller from the back cover was savagely destroyed by whoever initially put them in. I had absolutely no way to remove them.
My right trigger is making a creaking feeling after just a couple weeks even after setting the trigger pull to a very light setting and the A button needs just a teeensy bit more pressure than what a fresh controller would feel like. Its really upseting not gonna lie.
My issue is unscrewing the right joystick to get the dome part off honestly Edit: now i got it haha just had to grab some pliers and unscrew it like you openin a bag of chips xD
Came here for the EXACT same reason. I'm finding this is an EXTREMELY common issue with this controller. How does this get past testing?? Better question: Why are they still selling it with such a common issue?!
I have opened a lot of controllers in my life and this is by far the absolute worst. Incredibly complicated!! Just because of one button contact not being good enough! I'm about to refund this controller.
I own-and i am not exaggerating at all-1 old-style Elite controller and, count’em, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 Elite V2s. Why on God’s green Earth would I buy so many of these flipping things? Well I’ll tell you! For one, it is hands down the best production-standard controller on the market. The weight feels just right: solid but not too heavy. The grips and other materials are top of the line. The ability to swap out sticks, pads, and paddles lends a degree of customization and self-maintenance that is both cool and helps it last longer. The functionality and software are second-to-none. You can change the color of the Xbox button to fit into your chosen color scheme and aesthetic. You can use the configuration interface to set 2 separate functions to each HW input, including console-level special functions like taking a screencap or video, play music, chat, etc. Why 2 separate functions per button? Because you can set one or more button inputs as a SHIFT key that when depressed give access to the secondary functions you defined. This is extremely useful, both for console/administrative tasks and for gameplay. Then you can use the test laboratory interface to play with and verify your input layout. Note also that each controller has 4 input buttons on its bottom side which can be actuated by removable paddles (or you might call them forks). I usually set one or two of the paddles’ primary functions as SHIFT. Aside from that, the controller can store up to 3 different profile configs, which you may rapidly switch between via the Profile Button in the center of the controller. 3 LEDs indicate which profile is active, plus a 4th LED that is a charging indicator. Back on the bottom, each trigger button has an adjustment switch that can set 3 different travel lengths/heights for LT or RT to be depressed before it fires. What else? A sync button on the front/top of the controller, plus a port where you can connect other peripherals like a mini keyboard, and of course a headset jack. Beyond that, the standard V2 controller comes in a smart semi-rigid, cloth-covered case, which inside has mounts for your spare hardware, including your paddles, a thumbstick adjust tool (also included), a charging dock, a 10 ft USB-A to USB-C cable, 2x D-pads-one shaped like a circle and the other the standard cross design, and 6 thumbsticks of different height and padding. So there are a ton of features on the controller, the build quality seems high, at least initially, and functionality is the best. So why do i need 8 of them? Well, for some reason-and I swear it’s not me despite the stats-the LB button gets unreliable and often unresponsive over time. I have also had problems with the left thumb stick becoming biased. And instead of sending each controller in on the warranty, when I am in the middle of a game I just blindly order a new one from Amazon so I can quickly get back into the game. Eventually I got sick of buying new ones and sent 5 or 6 of them in lot Microsoft for LB repair all at the same time. I could have replaced parts myself, but these ones were still under warranty so why not take advantage? Anyway, once I got them back from M$ I was left with 8 perfectly functioning Elite 2s…. Yay. The only thing I would love this controller to support out of the box is a Rapid Fire function. But Microsoft will never go for that. Anyway you can pick one up for like $120, depending on color, availability, etc. Not that bad of a deal. In the most important factor, gameplay / control, this controller is the best I’ve used. Now if they could just make it more robust so the flippin’ LB doesn’t constantly fail!
So when I take the front cover off I see the screws but they all have a weird metal bit in the middle am I supposed to have a certain tool kit for that
I got this controller last year for Christmas and after only using a few times noticed the A button wasn’t pressing down like it was supposed to, i’ve sent it in twice and both times they have never repaired it, I’m sure all it needs is a cleaning or the pad replaced but apparently it’s too much for them, now I have to do it and hope like hell I don’t break anything.
Hey if you are still having this problem try putting a piece of paper around the button to help with that instead of opening the controller up. Go into your game pad tester and hold the A button down. Try wiggling it left right up or down and see if it starts missing consistently in one direction (mine was to the right) then you know where your paper should be placed. I used a piece of paper that is 1cm long and 6mm tall. I can fish it out with a knife but also can't feel the paper while playing. Good luck!
Hi, nice video, I have had this problem with so many Elite Controllers, I end up mapping A to a back button or RMA'ing them several times each. A couple of questions Is it worth cleaning the black conductor inside the rubber dome, or the copper contact? How many folds of electrical tape is recommended? 1-fold, two layers?
Randomly while gaming my right trigger became clicky, like it would work just fine but the initial press down felt like I was pushing my dpad down instead of a nice cushioned trigger. I don't have the right tools and even if I did I would definitely end up breaking something trying to find the issue and fix it. There is absolutely no way I can take the shell off so I guess my controller is just broken now and I get to feel a very odd difference between my triggers when using them.
The issue I ran into is one of the back peddles feel like it's not clicking in right so it's unuseable but when I try the other one in that same spot it works fine
STOP! USE A BLOW DRYER ON HIGH HEAT ON THE JOYSTICK DOMES BEFORE TRYING TO TWIST THEM OFF. THEY ARE GLUED IN. YOU WILL BREAK THEM OTHERWISE. UPDATING YOUR VIDEO WITH THIS INFO OWL.
Super disappointing that there was no cautionary word about keeping the green and blue board close together. I’m new at this and now I have detached wiring that was super frail between The two
just ordered my first one a couple days ago brand new and still in 2022 they are making them with the a button having the same problem. thats pretty lame.
WOW. Sent mine in 3 times and I swear they sent me refurbed crap that had the same problem still. I just finished this repair a few days ago and it worked perfectly. Thank you so much!
Same, sent mine back 2 times, fixed it myself the 3rd time 🤦♂️ and the 4th time just today haha
scary opening one of these up first time. the force needed at first makes you sweat a bit, but spot on advising the plastic pry tools. left no noticeable damage at all.👍
thank you so much!
here's a tip for the domes for the analog sticks. when removing them for the first time it will be quite resistant when attempting to initially twist them off, as there is thread lock applied. use the actual analog thumbsticks as leverage and twist them on top of the domes. go slow at first until you feel them give way! then pick up the pace little by little! :) oh btw counter clockwise - lefty loosey, righty tighty
So disappointed that for such a high price, the sticks are still read by wear prone potentiometers with just metal grinding on graphite. My Microsoft Joystick from 20!!! years ago already had optical position measurement, that never wears out. Microsoft really cheaping out here.
The dreamcast controller from 22 years ago had hall effect sensors
Yeah they even fucked people
Here the board is really thick that houses the rb lb so you need a very hot soldering iron
They totally pull this shit purposefully
My biggest problem with the elite 2 has been the bumpers. Maybe I just yank em too hard, playing rocket league, but I've had this guy replaced/repaired three times from bumper failure.
Yeah Xbox is garbage
Hall effect is the best way, there is a company that recently released a new controller with hall effect. Only for pc and android for now, but soon we will have it for consoles I'm sure.
I just got to say your video and only your video. Was the only video that explained what those two little plastic pieces were 5:51 for 4 hours straight. Not a single website or the iFixit app told me what those two little pieces were. For 4 hours!😢 but your video was the only one that had a absolute answer. So thank you man for that I'm following you.
What are those plastic?
I had a small piece of plastic in mine that was rattling around, managed to open it up and remove it with no issues.
Little tip, I used the larger paddles that come with the controller to open it up as I don't have any of those plastic pry tools. The paddles were a good substitute and didn't cause any damage.
Great advice, was wondering what to use because I don’t want to try a screwdriver
Yea I've got the same problem from dropping it a bit too much
Starting to remove the top shell from the bottom of the controller (like where the audio jack is) makes the process 100x smoother.
Helpful, thank you. My right trigger started to stick. The little stick on pad on the fin of the trigger came loose and the adhesive was exposed. I took off the tiny pad and reapplied with some super glue, which actually increased the height of the pad and decreased the travel a bit, which is nice for quick shots.
Just had the same. Sorted with the help of this video. Still a bit sticky where some adhesive still exists, but that should sort itself over time.
Yoooooo, my right trigger started getting sticky too and i have yet to find out why. I've ALWAYS been careful with my hands, never played whilst dirty so hopefully it's something small i can fix...
So how did that super glue hold up after a year?
@@maxstr seems to be fine. Granted, I play video games maybe once a month. I try it out today
@@ryanmasters5878 just because super glue isnt meant for most plastics as it damages and permanently warps plastics or even melts them
Thank you so much for this. I'm on my 4th elite series 2 since 2019. I've been having them replaced under warranty and every single one has this A-button issue. My latest replacement had the A-button issue and a sticking right analog stick. The dark silver dome was catching on the case so I had to scrape it down with a razor blade. I used tiny little circular foam sticky pads that would normally be used on the bottom of something to protect a table. My only regret was not doing the other buttons because the response on the A button is amazing now. Barely have to press it. It's so nice to be done with exchanging controllers every few months. I'm pretty sure they were just sending me other people's rejects.
I'm in the same boat. I was considering sending off my 3rd controller (this one with an unresponsive A, X AND Y) and get a 4th, but if there's a chance they'll just send me one with the same problem PLUS a thumb stick issue like yours, I'm tempted to order this kit for $10 from Amazon and fix darn thing myself. Everything else about the controller works like a dream, but this problem has just been infuriating.
same issue here, A works "bad" and also the LB button...i'm scared to open it :'(
If the A is sticking just keep using it. Eventually it will stop doing that. My A button did that too when i first bought it.
Microsoft warranty? Or a plan like as best buy, geek squad?
I don't know why everyone had issues. I've had mine for I think 4 years now and the only 2 issues I've had is my lb going out(still works but not very consistent) and the grip trying to come off in a couple places. Other than that, 0 issues and I've put probably somewhere around to 5000 hours on it if not more.
Thank you! I just bought an Elite 2 controller and about 8.5/10 presses would work for the A button. I almost returned it after hearing it's a common issue. After your fix though it hasn't missed one!
Informative video overall, but it's definitely not the best way to take off the faceplate. If you start on the sides it's very easy to damage the rubber on the edges, instead just insert the prying tool between the faceplate and shoulder buttons and start there. Once the top part is unclipped you can carefully pry the rest with fingers - much faster, easier, and doesn't damage the edges.
How do u get the thumb sticks off tho. Thanks for the tip
@@jonnyditto4440 it’s in the thread so you need to unscrew it. You can use the stick to make it easier (long one gives the most grip). It’s on there pretty tight though.
@@bezrodnyigor yeah I ended up having to use a thumbstick I dont plan on using (the tall one) and taking a pair of pliers to get it loose. It had to of been the most annoying part tbh
if you have a rubber grip, def. use that to hold onto the thumb stick. WAY easier to unscrew it that way. Hands were slipping a lot when i first did this.
Thank you greatly for this video. I bought 2 of these and both had the A button issue with one of them having the issue on the B button as well. Followed your instructions and got it working perfect now. Thanks again.
This was so helpful. I got some water in mine and needed to dry the motherboard because the A button wasn't working right. Thank you.
I noticed two things, my controller right trigger was sticking all of the sudden and when I opened the controller I don't have all the screws you have! But for all you guys that may have the same issue as me look for a foam pad on the right side. It needs to be attached the controller chassis and not the trigger. So make sure to clean the area and make sure the pad is in place.
Same! Right trigger was feeling “sticky” haven’t looked but this comment gives me an idea now of what to do fix this. Thanks!
@@jordansilva3048 not gonna lie, make sure you got the tools because it is a tricky thing without them. Make sure you take your time and if something ain’t coming up then take a moment and check. Took me about an hour with most of the tools but you will seriously need needle nose tweezers for the pad. If you can get some crafting double sided tape even better to make sure it sticks back on and stays.
@@derekfranklin9783 good idea. I have some tools here so I’ll have to just be careful. I’m actually just looking to repair it to sell! Lol
Thank you for explaining why the bumpers and triggers were interfering with each other. I was testing the alignment during re-assembly and could not figure it out for the life of me.
Thank you for your time with this because I dropped it from my desk and thought it was a goner and I took it all apart and the magnet just knocked loose and got stuck behind the trigger.
Thank you for the great video. It was exactly what I needed. Contrary to most peoples complaints with the series 2, I've put way too many hours on mine over the last year and a half and had 0 complaints. Until yesterday, when I was shuffling things around and my controller fell from my desk, and the sync button was jammed in crooked and would not release, causing it to be stuck in pairing mode constantly. I found I could use it wired, and could even unplug it once I was using it wired and it would stay connected, however I could imagine the sync button suddenly activating mid game, and I didn't buy a wireless controller to have to plug and unplug it everytime I connected it to my system. Was nervous about removing the faceplate to get access from below, but after a few minutes with a couple old plastic cards I was able to get it off and reach in with a pick to pop the button back into place. Would've rather not had the hassle at all, but glad in future if a more complex issue arises I will be more comfortable pulling it apart and have a go at it instead of just buying a replacement!
I had the same experience. Sync button got stuck. Figured out I could play wired and did that for a year lol
I recomend using a cloth when trying to take off the dome
Here's a quick story on how i fixed some problems with my Elite Series 2 Controller :
Tools: Knife and Torx T7 Security Screwdriver (Apparently they are T8 Security but my T7 bit worked )
Problem 1 : Right trigger sticky / clicky
Solution : Open controller shell. Used Isopropanol Alcohol Pads. (They are pre soaked individual pads. Smaller version of a wet nap at a restaurant. )
Wiped all inside the triggers and the triggers themselves. Put shell back on, then pushed down a small piece of toilet paper between the outer side of the shell , and the trigger. Read that part carefully . Worked 100% properly and quiet afterwards
Problem 2: B Button AND Xbox Button sticky and weren't responding every time
Solution : Used those Iso Pads , and with the front shell off, used a super skinny knife and pushed the cotton iso pads between the buttons, making sure the liquid can get in-between. Press the button a bunch of times to let the alcohol clean the dirt. I repeated a few times as i noticed it kept getting better and better every time until it was smooth perfectly.
Let dry then put back together. Never needed to open the 2 motherboards as i felt that step is risker plus i didnt have the smaller screwdriver honestly lol. My controller now feels brand new .
Thanks for making this video, it allowed me to make sure i wasnt missing anything and gave me confidence to open and work on the controller.
M
Cool mat first off. You gave really good advice, best video of this topic in my opinion but I have two criticisms. One, It was hard to tell what you where doing because the video was sped up, especially when you are taking off the faceplate, the hardest part. Two, you skipped over the part where you took off the joystick domes. Other than that great video.
Great video man but God damn I couldn't get the thumb stick off, just wouldn't unscrew, good job I only needed to go as far as trying to sort out the shoulder buttons 👍
I destroyed one of the analog pots unscrewing joystick. No big deal, because I was replacing it anyway - it would click when I pressed it.
I had the strangest problem. My remote was unusable as every time I turned it on, the left and right sticks registered as activated it in like every direction. I bought the tolls you showed and it took me 3 minutes to fix.
There are tiny little metal rods along the paddles that transfers the signal to the motherboard via a tiny metal sponge. The one on the right had slipped out and was attached to the sponge but it was laying across the motherboard. I hadn’t been able to find anything online about what cause the problem I was having and I think that’s cause what happened was a freak accident.
Why is this the exact same thing that happened to me, I am very much wary of taking apart my controller but I don’t want to just through away $200 like that.
@@notmerc Well tbh, it’s not worth it in the first place. It been a year since I posted that comment and since then, the bumpers inexplicably stoped working so I had to remap the paddles to be the bumpers.
Then one of the bumpers just inexplicably stoped working so I had to use just the lower 2 paddles.
Then the left joystick wouldn’t register as going forward if I had a joystick on it so I just can’t use the controller now.
The sad truth of the matter is that Microsoft products are just built to break so that you have to pay them to fix it or replace it. And with the current debates on the right to repair I don’t see this problem being fixed for quite a while.
@@lilhollow1543 yeah I think I’m done with Microsoft for awhile sadly…
@@lilhollow1543 for the triggers problemthere is actually an easy fix
Great video. Took a bit of finagling but I managed to get the green board off without pulling the trigger out.
I now have a fully working controller again.
I’m glad I’m not doing this for a living though. It would only be a matter of time before I’d start taking hostages 😂
Those clicks at the end...perfect.
Does this actually work cause all the ones I got I sent them back cause unresponsive buttons and never got another again but want a custom one
mine broke today but I had a custom top plate and wanted to save it. I got a new one and came here to learn how to swap it. subbed
Helped me in 2022 with a S2 my buddy gave me. It had sticky something or other in the R trigger - also the L bumper was sticking when the faceplate was attached. Did some plastic surgery there and now it's perfect.
You don't need to remove the thumbs ticks. In fact best not to unless you are really needing too. Threads are so fine and soft, stripping threads is very likely
This helped me to get the front cover off so I could fix my bumper. It wasn't connecting with the RB button so I just shimmed a couple pieces of paper in there. Good as new lol. Strange how these problems always happen after the warranty is out lol
I just wanted 1️⃣ replace the faceplate and 2️⃣ remove the 2 main rumbles to reduce weight. Your video helped! Thanks a lot for the teardown! 👍
Thanks great video. My little one put my halo infinite elite controller through water, i threw it in rice for a week then tried using it. It worked for half a week but then started getting connection issues. Just bought a core elite 2 controller to swap the controller case and buttons.
This video was super helpful in fixing my elite series 2 controller. thanks!
I came here to see what it looks like inside, so I don’t have to take mine apart and see how it works lol. Good video
I followed the tear instructions and the right thumbstick broke while trying to unscrew the dome. Broke as in it turned but never came off so that I could remove it. I said "good riddance" to this expensive mistake and tossed the elite series 2 controller in the trash.
I switched to the controller that came with my Xbox Series X, which works perfectly!
Your wife's a legend!
no
@@falosuar9899 yes
Ahahahahaha YESSiirr!
Just found out my Halo Series 2 has that stupid A button problem. I got it as an early Christmas present and I can’t get it repaired without a proof of purchase. I believe the person who got it for me paid a scalper which I personally wouldn’t have done and doesn’t count as a valid proof of purchase.
I am using the paper shim method right now to hold the button in the center but I will open it and fix it with a button shim like you did. I had a feeling a button shim would be enough and your video confirms this.
That triangular tool looks like a really good guitar pick. Haha
a bass pick lol
Awesome to see a lady of culture working on electronics. She's a keeper dude!
I managed to do this just fine without the kit, I’d recommend at least getting the special screw drivers though, only if it’s a non thumb stick related issue. If it’s a thumb stick issue you can just screw them out using a empty magnetic screw driver holder.
NICE - most helpful deconstruct/reconstruct video - Thanks Owl & Mrs Owl.
Good video, thanks! One little bit of feedback is...why would you speed up the video for such a detailed disassembly? I had to rewind and pause multiple times. Thanks!
Thank you very very much, i just followed your tuto, clean buttons and saved my controller (from stuck buttons because a glass of beer fell on it)
Thanks for this I had a small bit of plastic shaking about on the inside of mine, by taking the front off I was able to remove it. The rubber on one of the grips is sadly peeling too which is annoying
Controller disconnected, RB and LB work when they want... fixed! thanks to your video I was afraid to open the controller :')
I have a question my mic isn’t working and my b button puts really slowly can you tell me how to fix it
My left stick wont work so this really helped me with making it work
I cannot seem to get my right joystick to turn off no matter how hard i reef on the joystick knob. Is there something im missing?
My right bumper started flaking out after 5 months. I might have to pull is apart and see what I can do.
Bummer! Well I hope this helps you out if you make an attempt. Report back on how it goes 😁
Geoff Fowler I had the exact same issue after 4 months
Same here, my RB is starting to take some pressure just to use
Thank you got me started I kinda stopped watching after a few mins it's very simple and straightforward.
I like the little screwdriver kit u have we have both got 1 from amazon great little set 🤪
Man that sucker's on tight with the adhesive they put in it. They really don't want you to take it apart or want you to void the warranty.
Great video. Had a problem with an exploding bottle of soda, stripped my controller down, cleaned out, working like a charm. Thanks.
Great video my controller had a stick issue where forward was rough and not smooth like it should be saw how the stick twisted in and after messing with it found out it was just slightly loose and needed to be tightened just a little bit smooth as can be now!
how did you twist the stick out
@@lucivity2759 started by putting the largest diameter stick on the one I needed to mess with then grabbed pushed in hard and twisted. left to disassemble right to tighten. It wasn't easy but it does turn. just remember if it doesn't hurt u aren't doing it right lol
My right bumper is unresponsive, as a quick fix I’ve assigned some of my paddles to rb and lb. Any advice on replacing the bumpers? I really don’t want to break the controller doing it myself.
Sameee after 1 month too 😑
Thanks, just ordered the tools kit.
im at the part where you remove the right joystick.. I got it to turn but all it does is turn. it wont come off.. any tips?
My daughter dropped mines and now there’s a random piece floating around inside. Definitely getting these tools to help open my controller. Thanks again!
Good luck!
Lol I got the same issue XD. Was the floating piece important? It sounds like a loose screw, im worried that I should send it to Microsoft(still got warranty)
i had that problem i didnt want to open it so i hit it hard and now it works fine
Wow. They made that look very hard. You just insert the pry under the bumpers and drag it down the seams. Front pops right off in seconds.
Thank you for the video. The one part I really needed to see (the removal of the bumper) is off screen. I'm really nervous about forcing that. It looks like there are thin plastic parts involved, and there doesn't look to be any kind of tab to life or anything. Any chance you could film and show that part?
The bumbers come off easy all you have to do is drag them off the pins securing them
You got some real pretty hands while working on that controller ;)
My joy sticks wont unscrew.
Same
NEED HELP. Ever time I try to turn the joystick it will not come off I tried the why he showed but it will not turn anyone else
Thanks I wasn't too sure how to get the face plate off, I got one second hand and needed to clean around some sticky buttons
100% fixed my issue. Hardest part was opening the stupid controller...
I have the same issue with mine. I really have to push the A button pretty firm for it to work.
Hey Matt if you are still having this problem try putting a piece of paper around the button to help with that instead of opening the controller up.
Go into your game pad tester and hold the A button down. Try wiggling it left right up or down and see if it starts missing consistently in one direction (mine was to the right) then you know where your paper should be placed.
I used a piece of paper that is 1cm long and 6mm tall. I can fish it out with a knife but also can't feel the paper while playing. Good luck!
really thanks mate you saved me @@bpv717
Musics loud bro! All good tho. Got some questions for ya on the joystick 3D module
I’m having the a button issue with the RB instead
Thank you, I've been trying to figure out how to get pry the cover plate and get the thumbsticks off so I could fix my stick drift. Unfortunately, it looks like my left one might be cross threaded as it never comes off, only switches between being hard and easy to turn lol. Luckily, my real issue was on the right stick and I was able to sort that out. Thanks for the vid!
How did you fix the stick drift?
@@ZombieNoble6ZNT the potentiometers for reading the stick movements are the 2 teal tabs mounted to the sides of the thumbsticks. I just stuck a small flathead between them to pop them slightly off, then reseated them. Drift was gone.
I got a xbox series x controller and the right thumbstick has a issue with it when rotating at full diameter. I opened the controller up and saw underneath the ring, there was a poor welding job done in which there was a micro piece of metal sticking out the corner of the thumbstick base. I grazed it off using a knife and it’s fixed now.
Not sure if anyone else had this happen but 2 of the screws on mine that attached the controller from the back cover was savagely destroyed by whoever initially put them in. I had absolutely no way to remove them.
Thank you so much for your help! Have a blessed day
thank you for the guide this has helped i was able to tear it apart and clean all the dog hair out of it
just got this controller did not realise it was internal battery but glad it can easily be changed as the battery dictates the life of the device 👍
My right trigger is making a creaking feeling after just a couple weeks even after setting the trigger pull to a very light setting and the A button needs just a teeensy bit more pressure than what a fresh controller would feel like. Its really upseting not gonna lie.
Thankyou very informative video. I am looking to replace the casing on my elite series 2. 🙂
I’m struggling with the thumbstick dome, any pointers??
My issue is unscrewing the right joystick to get the dome part off honestly
Edit: now i got it haha just had to grab some pliers and unscrew it like you openin a bag of chips xD
Very helpful video and tools i was able to fix two remotes thank you
my bumpers dont work, i was wondering if u could make a vid on how to replace the sensor inside. Thanks!
Same
63k views and 200 subs? What an underrated channel subbed:3
What about removing battery? I’d like to see what’s involved in that thing if you can even replace it
Just be aware soon as the white sticker is moved for screw warranty is voided. If out of warranty like mine then crack on 👍🏻. Good vid cheers
Loving the glock mat
Came here for the EXACT same reason. I'm finding this is an EXTREMELY common issue with this controller. How does this get past testing?? Better question: Why are they still selling it with such a common issue?!
I have opened a lot of controllers in my life and this is by far the absolute worst. Incredibly complicated!! Just because of one button contact not being good enough! I'm about to refund this controller.
I own-and i am not exaggerating at all-1 old-style Elite controller and, count’em, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 Elite V2s. Why on God’s green Earth would I buy so many of these flipping things? Well I’ll tell you! For one, it is hands down the best production-standard controller on the market.
The weight feels just right: solid but not too heavy. The grips and other materials are top of the line.
The ability to swap out sticks, pads, and paddles lends a degree of customization and self-maintenance that is both cool and helps it last longer. The functionality and software are second-to-none.
You can change the color of the Xbox button to fit into your chosen color scheme and aesthetic. You can use the configuration interface to set 2 separate functions to each HW input, including console-level special functions like taking a screencap or video, play music, chat, etc. Why 2 separate functions per button?
Because you can set one or more button inputs as a SHIFT key that when depressed give access to the secondary functions you defined. This is extremely useful, both for console/administrative tasks and for gameplay. Then you can use the test laboratory interface to play with and verify your input layout.
Note also that each controller has 4 input buttons on its bottom side which can be actuated by removable paddles (or you might call them forks). I usually set one or two of the paddles’ primary functions as SHIFT.
Aside from that, the controller can store up to 3 different profile configs, which you may rapidly switch between via the Profile Button in the center of the controller. 3 LEDs indicate which profile is active, plus a 4th LED that is a charging indicator.
Back on the bottom, each trigger button has an adjustment switch that can set 3 different travel lengths/heights for LT or RT to be depressed before it fires.
What else? A sync button on the front/top of the controller, plus a port where you can connect other peripherals like a mini keyboard, and of course a headset jack.
Beyond that, the standard V2 controller comes in a smart semi-rigid, cloth-covered case, which inside has mounts for your spare hardware, including your paddles, a thumbstick adjust tool (also included), a charging dock, a 10 ft USB-A to USB-C cable, 2x D-pads-one shaped like a circle and the other the standard cross design, and 6 thumbsticks of different height and padding.
So there are a ton of features on the controller, the build quality seems high, at least initially, and functionality is the best. So why do i need 8 of them?
Well, for some reason-and I swear it’s not me despite the stats-the LB button gets unreliable and often unresponsive over time. I have also had problems with the left thumb stick becoming biased.
And instead of sending each controller in on the warranty, when I am in the middle of a game I just blindly order a new one from Amazon so I can quickly get back into the game. Eventually I got sick of buying new ones and sent 5 or 6 of them in lot Microsoft for LB repair all at the same time. I could have replaced parts myself, but these ones were still under warranty so why not take advantage?
Anyway, once I got them back from M$ I was left with 8 perfectly functioning Elite 2s…. Yay.
The only thing I would love this controller to support out of the box is a Rapid Fire function. But Microsoft will never go for that.
Anyway you can pick one up for like $120, depending on color, availability, etc. Not that bad of a deal. In the most important factor, gameplay / control, this controller is the best I’ve used.
Now if they could just make it more robust so the flippin’ LB doesn’t constantly fail!
THANK YOU my bumper is going and I needed the knowhow, you are a god
Thanks for the video and you're fortunate because my girlfriend would've tossed it and said now you can stop playing 😂
So when I take the front cover off I see the screws but they all have a weird metal bit in the middle am I supposed to have a certain tool kit for that
Ayyy that's awesome I use a Sign Sauer tekmat for my work station 🤣👍🏼🔥
Not gonna lie I love having this controller not worth the money again.
Thank you for the help.
thanks for this..... Id been looking for case screws:) I had stick drift, changed out a thumbstick controller
Just fixed my controller with your video, thanks 😊
I got this controller last year for Christmas and after only using a few times noticed the A button wasn’t pressing down like it was supposed to, i’ve sent it in twice and both times they have never repaired it, I’m sure all it needs is a cleaning or the pad replaced but apparently it’s too much for them, now I have to do it and hope like hell I don’t break anything.
Hey if you are still having this problem try putting a piece of paper around the button to help with that instead of opening the controller up.
Go into your game pad tester and hold the A button down. Try wiggling it left right up or down and see if it starts missing consistently in one direction (mine was to the right) then you know where your paper should be placed.
I used a piece of paper that is 1cm long and 6mm tall. I can fish it out with a knife but also can't feel the paper while playing. Good luck!
Hi, nice video, I have had this problem with so many Elite Controllers, I end up mapping A to a back button or RMA'ing them several times each.
A couple of questions
Is it worth cleaning the black conductor inside the rubber dome, or the copper contact?
How many folds of electrical tape is recommended? 1-fold, two layers?
Randomly while gaming my right trigger became clicky, like it would work just fine but the initial press down felt like I was pushing my dpad down instead of a nice cushioned trigger. I don't have the right tools and even if I did I would definitely end up breaking something trying to find the issue and fix it. There is absolutely no way I can take the shell off so I guess my controller is just broken now and I get to feel a very odd difference between my triggers when using them.
Series 2 disassembly is an absolute nightmare. Can't even get past the green circuit board. They should have kept it easy like 360 controllers.
The issue I ran into is one of the back peddles feel like it's not clicking in right so it's unuseable but when I try the other one in that same spot it works fine
STOP! USE A BLOW DRYER ON HIGH HEAT ON THE JOYSTICK DOMES BEFORE TRYING TO TWIST THEM OFF. THEY ARE GLUED IN. YOU WILL BREAK THEM OTHERWISE. UPDATING YOUR VIDEO WITH THIS INFO OWL.
Super disappointing that there was no cautionary word about keeping the green and blue board close together. I’m new at this and now I have detached wiring that was super frail between The two
just ordered my first one a couple days ago brand new and still in 2022 they are making them with the a button having the same problem. thats pretty lame.
That's a real bummer. Make use of the warranty, only take it apart if you have to