People like you are a godsend. I love my new Elite controller and know in some time that the sticks will fail and your work makes it so I can try fixing it myself and provide service others that are less confident and cannot do it themselves. We need more people like you in the world.
Do you know the function of the two metal sponge-like small cubes underneath the green pcb visible at 18:43? I'm repairing my controller but accidentally melted one of them and have no idea what they're called or how to get a replacement (or if they're even necessary, it seems yours are not super aligned when you put the bottom part back on again). Thanks for making this video, very nice repair!
It's up to you. I would always recommend de-soldering the wires. It makes life a lot easier for the 60 seconds it takes to do it and put back. Remember if the wires get pulled the wire or worse the pads can ripp off! Then you'll be spending 10 minutes repairing it.
just what I was looking for my housing cracked where the grip is overall the controller is working fine so basically just moving stuff into the back housing and not needing to do anything with the middle ordered full housing hopefully be with me next week, Thanks :)
Great video bro 👍🏼 so I was finally able to fix that elite series 2 controller that wouldn’t take a charge or power on. Followed the same steps you took on your other video where you reflowed the cpu however I was able to get away with just cleaning the cpu with 91% isopropyl and a bristle brush also flushed it with the alcohol and let dry 🙏🏼 got it to charge and power up but upon further inspection both P3 and P4 paddles are non functional so when I took a look inside I seen a pretty obvious fault, the pins or tabs, prongs? Not sure the proper terminology but where the motherboard makes contact to the buttons/ pads of the paddles the pins are all broken/bent is it possible to replace theses? The points on the motherboard are J15 J16 J17 J18 if so I would greatly appreciate the advice, and maybe a video on how that would be done?
Nice fix on the no power.. something metallic must have got under the CPU and bridges some balls. Regarding the contact for the paddle boards. I've see those break alot when people have been in the controller. I've always had donor boards to hand to replace them from. Not sure if they can be purchased.
Just did a swap for my elite v2 this week and everything fit well but now I keep having disconnect issues and I have no idea where to go back to. I reopened and doubled checked each step and it didn’t look like I messed up. I’m thinking it might be the two small cables that run from the blue card to green. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sadly I dont live in the UK and cant send my controller into repair, but is it likely I could replace the shell on my own? I have no beforehand experience, neither the best tools
My elite series 2 controller is connected to my Xbox but does not work altogether. I opened up the controller to fix the bumper not working and since then the controller has stopped responding. It can be turned off through a hard reset but there is no response on my Xbox. Does anyone know how to fix
That thing could have took my eye out! Hit the ceiling! Usually they pop off quite nicley but this one was welded to the shell. I was committed, it was a scrap shell and I have spare magnet so I was happy to see where it was going 😆
I change the rear shell when i put back together the trigers stop in the same place no mater where the stoper is and if i press to hard the triger will go all in and get stuck any idea
Ive been looking for the same! Found no answer anywhere. Microsoft says you need T8 and T6, but this one is specifically small, not even my smallest screwdriver fits there. u.u
People like you are a godsend. I love my new Elite controller and know in some time that the sticks will fail and your work makes it so I can try fixing it myself and provide service others that are less confident and cannot do it themselves. We need more people like you in the world.
I fix controllers for people as a hobby so that's an awesome comment! I feel useful:)
lol the magnet pinging off got me good
Got me too! 😂
I just recently subscribed to you. I like youre professionalism and personality, keep it up!
Awesome, thank you!
Great video mate funny that piece flying off 😂😂
Thanks man, yeah that SOB was stuck hard, I was fully committed getting it off!
Great video. That flying magnet, though😂
Do you know the function of the two metal sponge-like small cubes underneath the green pcb visible at 18:43?
I'm repairing my controller but accidentally melted one of them and have no idea what they're called or how to get a replacement (or if they're even necessary, it seems yours are not super aligned when you put the bottom part back on again).
Thanks for making this video, very nice repair!
They are conductive foam for grounding out the rear paddle PCB's. Nothing to worry about.
@@UberMicroRepairs great thanks for the reply, I will try without :)
Bravo even more helpful than the Microsoft step by step tutorial !!😊
i feel like once you worked yout magic on these they will work for ever lol
Excellent video. And very helpful
Hi Pops.
@@bblod4896 Hiya
Thank you, glad it helps you out!
Do we need to solder the wires off? Or can we work with them on? Because I’m needing to change my shell
It's up to you. I would always recommend de-soldering the wires. It makes life a lot easier for the 60 seconds it takes to do it and put back. Remember if the wires get pulled the wire or worse the pads can ripp off! Then you'll be spending 10 minutes repairing it.
Does it matter which gue to use whjen adhering the magnets to the new shell? I went to change mine and realised I had nothing to stick them back on
I would suggest either Tessa Tape or a tiny spot of super glue
Sheeeesh… 👏👏👏
That was my thoughs pullit apart!
just what I was looking for my housing cracked where the grip is overall the controller is working fine so basically just moving stuff into the back housing and not needing to do anything with the middle ordered full housing hopefully be with me next week, Thanks :)
Hope the swap over goes well. Be sure to pay close attention to the magents!
@@UberMicroRepairs all done went smoothly thanks to this video
Excellent repair! What kind if thread locker do you use?
Red or Green permanent.
Amazing job! What were you doing to the potentiometers when reassembling? Can you adjust them to get the more centred?
Corect.
Great video bro 👍🏼 so I was finally able to fix that elite series 2 controller that wouldn’t take a charge or power on. Followed the same steps you took on your other video where you reflowed the cpu however I was able to get away with just cleaning the cpu with 91% isopropyl and a bristle brush also flushed it with the alcohol and let dry 🙏🏼 got it to charge and power up but upon further inspection both P3 and P4 paddles are non functional so when I took a look inside I seen a pretty obvious fault, the pins or tabs, prongs? Not sure the proper terminology but where the motherboard makes contact to the buttons/ pads of the paddles the pins are all broken/bent is it possible to replace theses? The points on the motherboard are J15 J16 J17 J18 if so I would greatly appreciate the advice, and maybe a video on how that would be done?
Nice fix on the no power.. something metallic must have got under the CPU and bridges some balls. Regarding the contact for the paddle boards. I've see those break alot when people have been in the controller. I've always had donor boards to hand to replace them from. Not sure if they can be purchased.
We must have both gotten our controllers from a bad batch !! Mine also seemed to self destruct from dry rott !! Ha Ha !!
I had fix un elite 2 lt button, costumer have break many part plastic. Fortunally i use super glue
A fix is a fix!
What tools are you using to remove the bottom shell components?
I can’t get the wires to stay, the ones that are under the black tape
Same thing happened to mine the handles crack over time
Yeah the rear shells do crack very easily. We have brand new replacments in stock.
What’s the screwdriver you used in min 6:57? Is it the same as min 7:05?
How did you get the analogs out so easily? What heat did you use and approx how long did you apply it
I use hot air. Atten ST-862D 400c @ 50% air flow. Time... 60 seconds or so. Just give it a constant pull untill the solder lets go TBH.
What glue do you use for the magnets of the elite series 2?
superglue (cyanoacrylate)
@@UberMicroRepairs
@@UberMicroRepairs And the one you put on the joysticks, what is it?
Just did a swap for my elite v2 this week and everything fit well but now I keep having disconnect issues and I have no idea where to go back to. I reopened and doubled checked each step and it didn’t look like I messed up. I’m thinking it might be the two small cables that run from the blue card to green. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like the antenna cables are not connected correctly.
Sadly I dont live in the UK and cant send my controller into repair, but is it likely I could replace the shell on my own? I have no beforehand experience, neither the best tools
where you got the blue dpad and the paddle buttons blue like the og halo controller
arigato :D
Do you loose the tension adjustment when you replace the stick modules on the series two controller?
No, We use upgraded modules and they still have the tension adjustment, Just higher quality.
Hey mate I was wondering what kind of cleaner/fluid you use in the ultra sonic cleaner.
I just replaced my rear shell and no matter how much I re seated the trigger stops I couldn't get them working. I don't get how I done it wrong!
dude i was havin the same problem, i just tighten the spring-loaded screws further
My elite series 2 controller is connected to my Xbox but does not work altogether. I opened up the controller to fix the bumper not working and since then the controller has stopped responding. It can be turned off through a hard reset but there is no response on my Xbox. Does anyone know how to fix
Have you bought this on Ali?
I have no idea, but I assume your beautiful rebuild is less expensive than a new controller. Nice job.
Thank you. Yes it's cheaper than a new controller and we upgraded the analog modules so it lasts longer than the ones M$ install.
@@UberMicroRepairs M$ - Pretty accurate 🤑
Flying magnet!
That thing could have took my eye out! Hit the ceiling! Usually they pop off quite nicley but this one was welded to the shell. I was committed, it was a scrap shell and I have spare magnet so I was happy to see where it was going 😆
I change the rear shell when i put back together the trigers stop in the same place no mater where the stoper is and if i press to hard the triger will go all in and get stuck any idea
Check the spring loaded contacts on the analog board. four left and right. If they are damaged that may explain the issue.
I founf the problem when u put the stopers thers a small hinch i was puting them on top so it was making a small space .
Lol how much did this cost?
How much does it cost for a full refurb of an elite 1 and 2
Hi, contact us here: enquiries@ubermicro.co.uk pricing is also on our site: www.ubermicro.co.uk
What’s the stuff you put on each of the triggers when you assembled it
A tiny spot of super glue to keep the rubbers in place.
Hola ¿Qué pegamento utilizas para las partes de metal?
Hola bro ya supiste algo?
O cual usaste?
@@Juanpaz1 Dicen que hay cinta termica, una de color cobre, las venden en aliexpres
@@mitcheljop te sabess el nombree?
what size is the smallest screwdriver used here?🪛
Ive been looking for the same! Found no answer anywhere. Microsoft says you need T8 and T6, but this one is specifically small, not even my smallest screwdriver fits there. u.u