How to Replace & Upgrade an Xbox One Elite Series 2 Bumper Button (Tactile Switch)
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Tactile Switch Kit: amzn.to/3cfMLrh
~$30 Soldering Kit: amzn.to/2Y05Kig
~$20 Soldering Kit: amzn.to/3LbFFTi
Helping Hands 1: amzn.to/2PQVBzO
Helping Hands 2: amzn.to/3VVSlF0
or
sossgaming.com...
Please note: In some cases to get the controller to power back on for testing, the back plate needs to be connected. This may have something to do with it needing to sense the battery.
Also note: It's not necessary to remove the rumble packs. I personally prefer it as it makes working on the board easier, but not necessary.
In this video I show how to upgrade and replace an unresponsive, non responding, not registering, not working, defective, broken LB and RB tactile switch bumper button on an Xbox One Elite Series 2 Controller.
Searchable Keywords: non responsive X1 repair replacement replacing how to repair how to fix game parts left right xboxone how to tutorial guide solder breakdown open opening take apart not responding click clicking fail failing failure
DISCLAIMER: Some of the links on this channel are affiliate links which means by clicking on them and purchasing the items I get a small commission.
![[TF2] The Russian Bear Trap](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YFNSwz2_rOA/mqdefault.jpg)
For those having trouble testing the controller: Microsoft pushed an update a while ago for Elite Series 2 controllers where if you do not have the battery pack connected to the rest of the controller, it will not be recognized by your system or by a PC/Mac. To test your controller without having to completely reassemble:
Slide the blue board through the pin and back into the top housing (this is what I will call the part we remove at 4:35 in the video)
Slide the green board through the two pins and back on top of the blue board. Do not reconnect any wires or resolder the rumble motors
Push the green and blue boards together at the terminal at the middle. Make sure the two copper springs are touching the opposite board
Optional: screw in one T6 torque screw to hold the boards to the top housing
Carefully slide the board and top housing assembly into the battery pack. Push on the triggers as you put it in so they don't get caught
The controller should function now. You can connect it to your console or a PC/Mac app and it should register. MAKE SURE you disassemble everything once done then reassemble according to the video so you don't miss any screws or the little folded plastic wear resistors that go on the bumper buttons.
Thought I broke my elite 2 at first. Assembled all of it a bit together and tested it as you don't need to screw anything down anyways amd it worked flawlessly. If you push the RB butron all the way down then you shpuld have a strong connection and have 0 issues. My RB button now works even better than it was new and I just got the controller in August 2022 and had issues as early as November. The solder is pretty hard to heat up so covering it in more solder really helped me out, I used one of those desolder pens to suck the solder out and it was mega easy in the end.
@@SwedishGuitarHero2 bro I need to do all this but I’m complete novice to any thing solder and it all seems abit daunting
@DannyDrakey the technique where he added a whole bunch of solder to the pins of the RB was pretty much mandatory. The solder whick would help remove the excess but what I did was removed solder from the 2 points on one side, pulled them up and snipped the ends at the bottom of the others. I then used a desoldering sucker tool that literally suck the liquefied solder up and cools it into a ball. Once they were all out, I added the new rb button and put solder around it. A little bit goes a long way.
Th3 board is very strong so I don't think you have much to worry about damaging it. You'll probs spend about $25-30 in tools to fix it all but solder is a super easy thing to do, if you are in the USA look at Harbor Freight, they have good tools there. This would have taken me under an hour if I had read this person's comment cause I thought I broke it but I did everything perfectly fine.
This vid is the best tutorial for it all.
@@SwedishGuitarHero2 ok cool so I will buy a desoldering sucking tool, do I just heat up the solder then suck it up with the tool?
@DannyDrakey It is more like a button depress thing, called a desoldering pump. Way cheaper than one of those deaolder tools. But you'll need a solder gun to reapply and take apart the other parts. The deaolder pump just makes it easier to remove. Get the solder on the pins heated up with excess solder then stick the pump right against your solder gun and press the button and it will depress and suck up all the solder on that single pin. Reoeat on the other pins and shpuld have 0 issues!
Just finished repairing my Series 2 Elite controller using this guide. My R1 button had stopped responding for the most part (thanks Dark Souls), and this seemed like the repair I needed. I have never soldered before, but figured this was worth a shot instead of buying a new one or getting a refurbished one. Overall, while it took a bit of time (because I dogscience'd it), I was able to successfully replace my switches for L1 and R1 and the controller works great! Here are a few things that happened to me that I wanted to call out for anyone who wants to try this:
- A few people have said this but unlike in this video, I could not test my controller properly until it was all put together, which made me think I had done some serious damage. I had some success getting the backplate on and using bluetooth (USB-C connection would just never work) but it wasn't until I got it all together that everything just worked. Not sure what changed or why this is -- maybe I was touching something on the board I shouldn't -- but for anyone doing this, if you plug in the USB with just the boards and see lights, I think that's good enough to move forward. It's a bit disappointing that I was not able to test before going through the laborious re-assembly process, but it did eventually work fine for me.
- A few others mentioned this as well, but it was a lot easier not removing the rumble wires from the green board; if you loosen the gray and black wires a bit (you'll see that they follow a canal on the front side of the controller), you have enough give to remove the board easily and get to the underlying blue board. In the end, I had accidentally pulled off one rumble and had to solder it back on later which is honestly not too bad, but just a head's up that you can save yourself some time this way if you're careful.
- De-soldering to remove the original switches was a bastard and where like..85% of my time was spent. I went with the approach of just cutting up the old switches and then de-soldering them using the included solder sucker which worked ok. I ended up getting my wife to help with the sucker as I wielded the soldering iron because the amount of dexterity needed to do both was really frustrating. I needed a high heat (450 worked best) to get the molten-ness to a place where it could be sucked out. I recommend maybe buying a better solder sucker then the included one; it worked well enough but felt comparatively weak, and I found a few that came highly recommended for like $20. Also, for some solder that was particularly nasty, I found that wielding the soldering iron from one side of the board while the sucker pulled from the opposite side worked best.
- When putting the buttons back, I recommend not laying the faceplate flush on a surface because they are supposed to stick out a bit and if they're not fully in their set positions (they have unique markings, you'll see what I mean when you do it), then they won't be flush with the faceplate and "click". It took me a few tries of doing this where I just assumed the buttons were fine and then...they weren't, and I had to go back and unscrew all the boards to fix it. Once you put the blue board back in, I recommend putting in the middle screw and then checking all the face plate buttons feel clicky and not smushy (except for the B button which requires the green board.
- Don't forget the headphone jack! It is extremely easy to forget while re-assembling! Also don't forget the bluetooth sync button, which is small (I actually thought I had broken something off at first because I could not for the life of me figure out what the hell it was for until I realized it was the bluetooth sync button).
- The left thumbstick was so much more difficult to remove than the right; I have no idea why, but the right on mine came almost right out with little effort while the left almost made me blow out my back trying to unscrew it. As the video suggests -- use the tall joystick for leverage!
Overall, this video was extremely helpful and gave me the confidence I needed to attempt this, so thanks a bunch! If you've never soldered before and are willing to risk it (I was ready to just toss the whole thing if I destroyed it badly enough), then I recommend doing this as it's pretty fun, but like others have said, I recommend setting aside more hours than you think as the trial-and-error is real.
This is a great write-up. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and tips. I will endeavor to replace the switches this week so comes in handy.
Had pretty much these same issues and overcame them the same way.
Additional note: when removing the thumb sticks, I ended up attaching the longest joystick and using some thick pliers to get a grip. Once I twisted them far enough, I was able to finish removing them with my hands. Work smarter not harder yall!
(Fyi I’m still soldering off the internal buttons lol)
i have never used a soldering iron before but i got the iron and switch kit from the description today and it took me about 4-5 hours (the desoldering was really frustrating but switching to the angled/sharper iron head made it much easier). I realized it probably should only take 1 hour, but it was a learning experience i recommend to anyone willing to take a shot. microsoft charging $99 to replace this is ridiculous and its lowkey a fun project to fix it
For not having soldered before that's a job well done in my books! Glad it worked out.
Don't worry, I've soldered on and off multiple times, usually without issue, but I have always had issues with de-soldering. Unfortunately, I still haven't managed to have the foresight to simply get a proper de-soldering vacuum. While copper wick can work well, you have to remember that the flux in the solder is responsible for its bonding and attraction, and that, for an already soldered joint, flux has to be applied separately to the wick you want to pull the solder to in order for the de-soldering to occur.
It's much harder and more frustrating to de-solder than it is the other way around. If you feel like you did a reasonable job with de-soldering, you should definitely try out soldering more. It's a lot more enjoyable and a lot less frustrating to make solder joints than it is to remove them. If you want to invest more time into soldering, you should probably get a de-soldering vacuum station. A good one can be pretty expensive, but take it from me, I wish I had one every single time I've de-soldered.
Remember, soldering is an art; de-soldering is a pain.
getting it fixed by microsoft would cost me $83 after tax, it kinda sounds worth it
Mate this is me I have no experience with soldering feel like it’s out of my depth
I mainly use mine wired up to pc (for input lag) and only play it for souls games. Its seen very light use and im actually considering trashing it. I always felt if you pay the premium itll last you in the long run but clearly not for this. Might just spend the 45$ on a hall effect wired controller cause i feel thats money well spent, better bumpers and no stick drift... For now ill use my ps5 controller cause i feel the quality is far superior, although the batteries are trash on them and sadly arent as seamless as xbox on windows. Such a complete waste of money i feel i shouldnt have to spend extra money that i already shelled out for it.
FYI, its very easy to remove the Blue Board with the Bumper Tactile Switches without having to desolder the red/black and gray/black rumble wires. Much easier this way.
ruclips.net/video/aS9_t1FZh3A/видео.html shows here how to do it @ 3mins
How did you do it
@@plr2005 just loosen the wires from the clip on the edge of the frame. It will give you enough room to move the green board around and get to the screws on the blue board. Just be fairly careful with it because if you pull too hard on the green board you can pull one of the wires off. Also be careful when trying to loosen the wires because they seem pretty frail
The fact that this video has over 50k views means that there are over 50k ppl with this problem. It's jarring. Thank you SOSS Gaming for providing us with this tutorial. After 2 years living with a scuffed rb and lb, I managed to replace the switches myself with the help of your guide. This greatly improves my gameplay. And to all the many ppl out there attempting to do this replacement, I wish u the best of luck.
95k now
Well over 200k as of this comment.
Thanks for the kit and the video! Works great. Couple improvements I’d definitely recommend:
There’s really no need to desolder the rumble pack wires from the mobo. If you pull the wires out from all the tiny plastic clips where they run along the front of the controller, there’s more than enough slack to pull the motherboards apart, rotate them around, and do everything you need to do. Gotta be careful (use plastic tools) with the wires since they are so small, but IMO less chance of something going wrong than de- and re-soldering them to the board.
Heat gun. I appreciate that this is aimed at people who don’t have a lot of tools but a cheap $20 heat gun and solder sucker is makes removing the old switches trivial and a lot harder to screw up.
Just wanted to let you know that this tutorial is amazingly good. Your blueprints showing the clips was really helpful, and your straight-to-the-point style is great for getting this done quick. Thank you!
Just an update. You can do this procedure without desoldering any of the wires. Just pull the wires away from the routing clips and there is plenty of slack. The hardest part is cleaning the holes after removing the old switches. The new switches are a tight fit.
I appreciate this tip. I just replaced mine without desoldering any of the wires. Thanks!
@@racylaserjet anytime!
I am about to buy switch from xbox one, is it compatible?
Just completed the repair, and it works great. First time doing this kind of a struggle but you get used to it. If anyone wants to do this to repair, I recommend it. It is nice to have another person to help when removing the trigger though.
Thanks for making this video. I managed to fix my son's Elite controller with this. The removal of the old switches is by far the most difficult part, but I followed your method where you basically destroy the old ones. I can't recommend the helping hands enough, as this would be really hard to do without.
When you consider that Microsoft charge almost £100 to fix a known issue on a Series 2 Elite, the price of a soldering kit is a good investment.
So basically they learned literally nothing about managing build quality of the bumpers specifically, after all the bumper issues the series 1 had. Nice.
Lol they fixed the physical durability of them but chose to cheap out on the tactile switches which is why the series 2 bumpers are having these issues such as no response or double responses lol
It's despicable, really. Let's review the S2:
1) Face ABXY buttons fail to register unless pressed perfectly straight. The fix is to add a layer of electrical tape to the back of the button. There's NO way Microsoft didn't know/wasn't able to build these buttons with an extra micrometer of tolerance.
2) Trigger cushion eventually shifts, leading to a sticky trigger. This has to be the most annoying problem. A sticky hairtrigger is borderline unplayable. The fix is to grab the cushion with tweezers and glue it back in place. Any CA glue will hold it forever. There's no way they didn't know/couldn't use a durable glue.
3) The damn bumpers. The physical, mechanical bumper is better than the S1, but they cheaped out on the tactile switch?? Why? Why would you do this? You fix the bumper, then keep the stable old switches that work. The fix is this video. It's so tedious.
To top it all off, this damn controller is NOT meant to be opened or maintenanced by the consumer. Check out Scuf's magnetic face plate. It did not need to be like this.
There is NO way these constant failure points slipped past QC. These are engineered failure points, designed to limit controller life to make money off warranties or flat out replacement purchases.
@@inawrocki207 respect my guy, that’s exactly it 👌👌
@@inawrocki207 you got it 👍🏻
My bumpers on my elite 2 are completely broken. You need a tremendous force to get them to work
Bumper literally died in the middle of a Halo game (bumper jumper) 5 minutes ago. Thankfully I know my way around a soldering iron. This came super clutch! Thanks!
Just did this to my busted Elite 2 controller. Didn't want to have Microsoft send me someone's else's busted refurbed controller in place of my nearly brand new one. Great instructional video and is much more doable than I originally thought. Thanks! Be careful of the surrounding components when soldering the bumper button joints. I accidentally took off one of my wire holders and had to solder it back. My controller is working great again!
Thank you so much! I'm on my 3rd elite controller in 4 years. Left bumper always goes out. I'd never soldered or anything before but your video was so to the point and easy to follow. Thanks again!!
ALWAYS the left! Been through more elites in 4 years that I care to admit.. this my first time having the actual switch button go out though. Was working perfectly earlier now completely dead/unresponsive! I hope I'm actually able to do this repair myself🤣 wish me luck!
@@Druunken_Sensei i think im gonna stay with the cheap controller lol 6 months of rocket league and my LB is shot for 200 bucks this is bs
For me it's always right. I'm on my second controller
I bought a Elite 2 used off Ebay. I noticed the left bumper almost immediately. When I subsequently took it apart, I fixed the sticking issue by adding some springs on the rectangular latch on the far end of the bumper bar and all putting some compressible foam under the bumper buttons such that it was supporting the little while staple-shaped barriers. Both of these interventions gave the button just the slighest amount of return force to keep the button from sticking. Pretty remarkable no springs or other recoil measures were implemented for these buttons. Thankfully, mine was an easy fix. This is a more involved method but I imagine the tactile switches make a bigger impact. Nice video
I am posting this comment after I have taken apart my controller and replaced the bumpers.
The new bumpers work perfectly fine and the tutorial was great but one major problem happened that I would like to warn others about. While taking out the joysticks by twisting it counter clockwise, the actual joystick broke. The spring on the inside got torn and the joystick was destroyed. It was a cheap fix but it involved ordering a new joystick and install it in on the motherboard. Just beware when removing the domes covering the joysticks.
Other than that, the tutorial was perfect. Thank you.
A little tip before you start unsoldering the buttons... try spraying electrical contact spray carefully on the LB and RB buttons. (to the micro-buttons within the controller, of course) that helps a lot and saves you having to solder. Important, do not spray the A,B,X,Y keys... sorry for the bad English... Greetings Frank
just completed the repair. the testing stage before assembly wasn't working for me so I continued on. once it was all back together worked perfectly. I guess it might have been due to loose connections and contact points. top job thank you!
I haven’t done this yet, but in the past projects, taking photos during disassembly is always helpful in remembering how things go back together
Definitely! That goes with a lot of DIY repair jobs.
I just completed this , some advice would be to make sure you get a good amount of solder on those prongs when trying to pull them out. And don’t be scared to really pull them hard. It won’t break the PCB. GREAT VID!!!
Used this guide today to repair a controller I bought on eBay listed as broken for £45 ($61). Initially thought it may have been an easier fix as I had seen mentions of IPA alone fixing some issues but opened the case to find that the RB button wasn't even there! Button had been snapped off and looks like a repair was attempted as there was also 6 missing screws. All sorted now though and back in full working order, thanks for the guide!
fantastic walk through. thank you very much. I have never soldered in my life, but i bought all the kits you recommended and watched your video step by step and was able repair my elite controller and save my self some money! even with the 50-60 bucks i spent on the soldering kit and switch kit, i still saved $100
Awesome! Great job on the repair.
I have done this now to 2 separate elite 2 controllers. thank you for this video. it was a huge help.
You're welcome! Congrats on the successful repairs.
DUDE THANK YOU SO MUCH! bought your stuff and saw the qr code to the tutorial and boom. 3 hours later i'm done and I can play Elden Ring again! You're amazing
I bought an elite 2 and after 10 months the left bumper went and I had to get it replaced under warranty. The replacement lasted about 12 months before the left bumper went again. I bought this kit and watched this video and replaced the bumper switches. Initial testing has everything working perfectly. I highly recommend this solution to fixing bumpers on an xbox elite 2 controller. The video is easy to follow and the recommended tools are more than sufficient. Thankyou for your video, and products. :)
Thank you being the only one on youtube showing how to take off the dumb stick shielding 👍
This video saved my elite controller thank you, I was afraid it wouldn't work but it did I'm very happy with the results
Thank you so much for this guide! I'm still in awe, how the controller still worked after my 3 hour soldering iron assault.
Haha great job!
Just did this with this video as my only guide and the exact tools recommended, took like 5 hours but I never soldered anything before and put a set on backwards lol. Good begginer project for the value it has. The controller did not work until the back was on for whatever reason. I would recommend having super glue if you don't have spare parts. Also cleaning the ports was ass, I had to twist the hands upwards and superheated the hole and suck from the otherside, once I got cleaning it down I was able to swap the buttons in like 30 minutes. Overall was like learning to ride a bike
I gotta thank you man for this! Just performed the repairs today, and so far, so good.
Also, for anyone that has a broken bumper and is contemplating doing this for the first time, my soldering looks like complete garbage, and it still works as of this moment. Just make sure you have the patience. Otherwise, it might be best to get someone else to do it because it will test you.
I understand you. After some soldering practice, i can confirm that it's not easy to have a good / perfect result.
But it's necessary to take the time, keep calm, and the most important is thats working !
Here here. I just did mine today. I had a worse time getting the old ones out and cleaned had to cut pieces and used tweezers to hold the backside while I heated the pins till they came out.
Also found out the flux can also be a beezy to clean up and i used too much.
Did anyone buy the cheep soldering kit from the description? I bought a different cheap kit and it turned out to be crap, so I’m wanting to know if the one he recommends is good enough
@@HoustonDarner
Yes, it’s adequate.
followed your tutorial and repaired both bumpers on my elite series 2 and it works! First time I soder so small so I'm very thankful for your video, it was very helpful.
This worked very well. Getting those switches out is a pain in the butt if you go with a cheap solder set.
This worked perfectly for my controller works better then when I got it originally. I also removed all rumble packs even in the triggers. The controller is even more comfortable now without rumbles and plays amazing. Thanks so much for putting out the tutorial.
You know you can turn off the rumbling in the Xbox settings dude? I'd recommend neeever removing anything from electronics these days unless absolutely necessary, it might have consequences. I know a dude who altered his Xbox controller, and he was considered a "bot" and had his console bricked. Took him 4 months to have it back in working order.
@@mattiasl4112 interesting! Well I removed them to cut the weight out if it. Always had the rumbles off. The big takeaway here is that Microsoft should be taking care of these issues. Selling the quality product they claim it is.
@@SAUL-TO-PAUL Yep, the new bumper buttons are absolutely awful. I'm on my second of these new series controllers. I'm not "abusive" towards controllers, I might press buttons a bit hard because I PVP a lot, but if on the first one the LB stops working. and the RB on the second, It doesn't seem the way I'm pressing buttons is the thing. So many tens of thousands that have watched all these videos, these buttons are obviously flawed. Both controllers are in excellent condition otherwise, they look and feel like new.
@@mattiasl4112 Yep, it's not you.
It's despicable, really. There is NO way these constant failure points slipped past QC. These are engineered failure points, designed to limit controller life to make money off warranties or flat out replacement purchases.
1) Face ABXY buttons fail to register unless pressed perfectly straight. The fix is to add a layer of electrical tape to the back of the button. There's NO way Microsoft didn't know/wasn't able to build these buttons with an extra micrometer of tolerance.
2) Trigger cushion eventually shifts, leading to a sticky trigger. This has to be the most annoying problem. A sticky hairtrigger is borderline unplayable. The fix is to grab the cushion with tweezers and glue it back in place. Any CA glue will hold it forever. There's no way they didn't know/couldn't use a durable glue.
3) The damn bumpers. The physical, mechanical bumper is better than the S1, but they cheaped out on the tactile switch?? Why? Why would you do this? You fix the bumper, then keep the stable old switches that work. The fix is this video. It's so tedious.
To top it all off, this damn controller is NOT meant to be opened or maintenanced by the consumer. Check out Scuf's magnetic face plate. It did not need to be like this.
@@inawrocki207 I'm on my second elite 2 and have had All the problems you mentioned plus 3 of my paddle slots don't work no matter how I configure the paddles, so i bit the bullet and bought the scuf instinct pro and Sadly that after 3 months needs to go back for repair for severe upwards stick drift, NO controller on the market is durable enough to withstand constant PvP fps gaming and that's just a fact
Tips for anyone doing this, desoldering the switches is the hardest part. One switch took me about 20 minutes straight of just heating the pins and pulling the switch as he showed in the video but the other switch would not budge after messing with it for about an hour. I ended up cutting the switch off and pulling at one pin at a time as i held the iron on the other side of it. I was really frustrated so I got really really rough with it and honestly didn't think it would work when I put it back together.
I also got frustrated
Thanks for the video. It was all mostly clear, but the metal domes were extremely stuck. The fix was to heat the screw with the soldering iron for a bit. Next problem was desoldering the switch as my 30W soldering iron couldn't really melt the solder there, even though I had broken the switch and could do one at a time. Borrowed a more powerful one and got it done, but it was a fight, especially removing all the solder in the holes. It finally worked when I used the sucker from the other side of the hole while heating. All the fussing was not good for the board, so a hot air heat gun would have been worth the investment IMO. With an air gun I don't think you even need to dissasemble the boards etc as it's all accessible just removing the front and back covers. Also the tiny tab on the side of the bumper was extremely fragile and broke for no good reason, so suggest people take care with that.
Sorry to hear about the struggles :/ Thanks for the suggestions and sharing your experience.
I attempted this repair - I'm 38, and haven't soldered a thing since I was in a school. OP you may want to copy past this to the pinned comment/description. Warnings:
*The wires for the hand rumble packs run from the front to the back of the controller along the hand grips.*
Using a prying tool to remove the case, I damaged all 4 wires when fishing for the clips, 1 of which I cut through completely. This increased the cost as I had to buy wire to repair this (I did a mid wire solder and wrapped in electrical tape, there is enough room that you don't need to use a wire jacket)
The LB and RB will feel wrong when you put them back on, they will feel okay when you put the case on. (They rub against the triggers, as there's nothing holding the triggers in place.)
I struggled with all desoldering techniques. I ended up investing in a heat gun - get one with a control unit. The cheapest one on amazon was not hot enough. I ended up having to go up to about 475c to be able to reliably soften the solder.
*Test the controller BEFORE you put the front case back on for the last time* - this means you don't have to pry it back off if something doesn't work.
The rest are down to my lack of skill:
In my repair the "Profile" button still works, but it's not perfectly aligned.
I couldn't get the protective sleeves back across the tactile bumper switches - it works just fine, but I expect future wear and tear.
Do not skip the helping hands. Some of this may be easier with a friend, so you can both heat the solder and push the switches in quickly.
Following the "chop the legs" off technique, just left me with bits stuck in the holes - get a heat gun and remove the whole thing in one go.
Replacing the bumpers - makes it look easy in the video, it doesn't just "clip on", you first need to hook it in on one side, then it will clip on - making sure to line up the two downward facing struts of plastic with the thin oblong/rectangle shaped holes above the switches that you've just replaced.
One of the screws wouldn't go back in (on the daughter board) seems like I threaded the screw hole - seems ok in operation.
The buttons weren't perfectly aligned when replacing the daughterboard on my first go around, meaning nothing else was aligned. Check this by looking at the controller "top down." You'll be able to tell if everything is flush.
Just finished my controller about an hour ago and both triggers are now perfect. Bought the solder kit you linked in the description and a KOTTO 2-ARM Magnetic Helping hands.
I removed the old switches using the heating method with flux and only took 10-15 to get both of them off. I also did not have to remove the rumble packs as others suggested. The cables give enough slack to allow the blue board to the removed slipping it under the green board and same to slip it back in. The Solder Sucker that came with the solder kit worked fantastic in getting the solder out of the 8 holes. I tried using a wick at first and it just wasn't working.
One issue I ran into is now the Profile button on the controller is not longer tactile and required a hard press to register a press. This may be a minor issue and I may at some point in the future reopen the controller to see what the deal is with it. Otherwise everything else works 100% and am finally rid of having to hard press my RB and having double input on the LB
Thanks a lot my man.
Before doing this, try cleaning your bumper switches: A good solution is to just put few drops of 90+% alcohol on the white part of the microswitch and keep clicking until it cleans itself.
Great tip.
Similarly for the analog sticks - particularly if you loose the ability to sprint (full range). I have found a quick rinse with 90% IPA will restore functionality (astro TR as well).
You just saved me sometime thank you so much. I've had the faceplate off before but never soldered a pcb but this trick work just cleaning with 90% and clicking a bunch to clean it out. Thank you again.
@@EZ-jr7mi I'm glad it worked!
Thanks for this mate, worked so far just cleaning it!!! 😘
I didn't remove the pcb's / motherboard / rumbles etc at all and it worked great - thanks for the info
So basically just kept everything together and removed the old ones and replaced with new? My worry is taking everything apart so if I can leave most of it together I’d be happy
@@xStrypes yes, I didn’t fancy removing everything just removed the casing
Thank you for this informative video. I was able to repair my controller. It was definitely a time-consuming task. I was struggling with removing the solder but your tip about cutting the chip and removing the pins individually really helped. It took me about 2 hours but most of it was spent on removing the chip. lol
Just did this replacement on my elite 2 and it worked flawless so far. Great tutorial!
Edit: ok it's working, to test the controller afterward, i had to put the motherboard + green board onto the controller back where the built in battery is. Guess it didn't have enough juice to connect just the boards. I have an elite 2 master chief edition controller, if that helps anyone else. Gonna put it together now! Great tutorial btw!
Bro u saved my controller. I've tried everything and this worked first try. Definitely recommend doing this if your having bumper issues
I guess I'll wait for series 3
I guess so. Somebody who wears a big blue hoodie with a red bandana, high visibility neon grip gloves, and a pair of dollar store American Flag sunglasses taking a selfie in a brightly lit room next to a file drawer must have other issues to attend to first.
@@paulweston8184 is everything okay at home? Did your mom not get you the Doritos you wanted today?
@@paulweston8184 you just took some time out of your life that you wont ever get back to insult someone's style, i think you're the one who needs issues to be fixed. Ill help you out, first step get a life
@@paulweston8184 Is your mother proud of this comment?
@@paulweston8184 if you don't have any thing good to say about some one then don't say anything at all.
Everything in this video works. I bought the kit and it worked perfectly
Thanks a lot saved tons of $$$
For anyone who can’t do the soldering, I opened up the front, took out the plastic caps and flipped them. The plastic gets indented so flipping it over may help. Mine still didn’t work after that but it helped a bit so I slightly bent the switch up and it worked. It’s still not perfect but it works 99% of the time instead of 0.
This is way more effort than any consumer should have to go through for a so called “elite” product. My first series 2 had a bumper failure so under warranty I sent it back to them and they sent me a refurbished model, not two months in another bumper is going bad. It is unbelievably frustrating and i’m so disappointed I pretty much just want my money back. I’m not gonna buy a solder kit to fix a controller that never should’ve had this problem in the first place for like a $150 controller.
I just did the repair myself with your kit and it went splendidly. Thank you!
Thanks a bunch. Thats probably one of the hardest repairs ive done. But controller works perfectly fine now!!!
Successfully replaced my bumper switches. Really appreciate the walkthrough.
May try this in the future. I ended up buying a second one after a 3 year ownership of my first one. Hard to stop playing with one. But now I wanna customize different parts and may do it with the original one (black and gold accessories). But will need to see about repairing the left bumper. I blame its demise on the heartbeat sensor in Warzone. 🤣
Thanks I have went through two elite series 2 in less than a year didn’t want to buy another now they are both fixed
Thanks for this video! The only others I have found are the crappy "Fold the plastic over" ones. If I had any of the skills you showed in the video I would be ordering a kit.
thanks man, just finished fixing my elite series 2 using this guide!!
Great job!
Bought the kit didnt even know it was yours until i got it 😂. Thanks for the vid, wish me luck. Got two elites with bad bumpers.
Haha awesome! Good luck!
Thanks. I got the old switches out pretty easily. Just waiting on some wick to get the last little soldier outa the holes. Appreciate the video sick of buying 200$ controllers every 2 years 😂
Great video man, i've never soldered before, but with your video i am confident i will be able to repair my controller.
I really love the elite series 2, but ive had 3 so far and each one has been just as bad with the bumpers, decided finally to repair it instead of replace it, great video and keep up the good work.
Great to hear! Giving the controllers a second life. Hope it works out well. Good luck!
Thank you so much for making this video and making the kit available. The process went smoothly and the bumpers work better than they ever have.
Fixed my out-of-warranty controller and learned a new skill all in one. Sure now I might end up with another hobby to spend all my money on, but that was awesome. Thanks!
I just did this today, took me about four hours. The video was a great help. In fact there's no way I would have been able to do it without it. My soldering doesn't look much to be admired but I think my solder was too thick. Still, it's all back together and working now. So thanks for the video. 🤙😎👍👌
You'd think considering the premium we're paying for these controllers, accepting the high cost, we'd get a high quality product, but no. Buttons don't respond, potential drift.
They make sure to not have their main controllers have these problems but they disregard premium customers.
Thanks for this video. RB was double clicking as well and this fixed it perfectly. Plus, I got a chance to brush up on my soldering skills.
I had the opposite problem, RB not responding at all even though it clicked. 4 months after following this video though, RB and LB are both still working great.
After trying to save my old series 1's paddle buttons (it worked for a couple of days but the button seemed to slip again), missing the warranty for my current series 2 last year (after having used it to replace TWO previous controllers for stick drift), and having gotten into 3D printing (Ender 3 Pro, considering adding soldering to my skill set anyway), I think I'll give this a try to fix the LB on my series 2 (I play bumper jumper so this is painfully needed) since this is such a great presentation of how to disassemble the controller. Definitely sounds better than paying another $120 for a completely new controller. By the looks of it, I think I can get away with about half of that and be able to do future bumper repairs if they happen for free since your kit comes with 10!
Edit: Came to $55 with the soldering kit I bought (similar to the one in the description, but comes with a multimeter which will be useful for 3D printing).
Edit 2: Success! As mentioned in the video, desoldering is the hardest part. Second hardest part for me was unscrewing the thumbstick domes. In addition to using the long head, I had to use a thin wrench that could grip the neck of that head to get enough torque to unscrew these suckers a couple of rotations before I could do it by hand.
Lastly, the 2 tabs (4:10) that hold top middle bar of the shell can be removed from the bumper part. I happened to snap one of the one these. The bumper tabs (4:25) point AWAY from the controller and I happened to snap one of these as well. Be very careful when taking these off. Gorilla glue will be fine to hold these if you have a fine enough applicator as these aren't under stress when the controller is in use.
Best of luck!
Absolute legend for this video! Just minutes ago I finished the repair and am thoroughly pleased with how easy it was with your instructions. I also purchased the switch kit and helping hands from your links, the soldering kit was unavailable but I found a decent alternative. Thank you for this video sir!
You're very welcome. Thank you for the support and well done on the repair! Seriously, I know it requires effort and patience to do this, especially for this being your first solder repair. Very nice.
Worked great haven't had bumpers this amazing in months thanks!
You really should title this as disassembly / teardown!
I wish I had found this video when looking for a video on how to take apart my controller, much better than most other ones out there! I had to figure out many of these things myself (like the bumper hooks on the sides)
One thing for me though was that I had to use some channel locks on the joystick covers to remove them. I tore the overmolded rubber on one of my thumbsticks and now it's just kinda loose (luckily I chose that one because I don't really use it)
Maybe I should have just made a different video altogether. Thanks for the nice feedback! Glad you were able to figure it out.
for anyone doing this, mind that metal circle around the d-pad; it's very easily bendable, and prying the face plate off your controller is an easy way to warp it if you aren't careful
cant wait to send my controller out to you, would only trust these skills with it!!
@@aidengalaviz look up his utube name on ebay he should have an ad up for controller repairs if not just msg him and tell him you need service.
How much does he charge?
Amazing guide, hopefully i will be fixing my series2 controller tomorrow, without breaking it more :D, thanks to you!
I'm afraid of breaking mine as well.
The circuit board for this controller is fairly thick and requires a fair amount of heat to get all of the solder melted. after realizing that and taking my time to get the board hot, using the solder sucker, wick all the things to remove the lead free solder, did it's job. As long as you follow this video to the T, and have patience to move slow and steady the switches can be replaced without tearing your hair out or damaging the controller/circuit board. My controller is fixed and works as if it was new. Bumpers are finally responsive again :D
@@bryanvandyke im a 15 year old kid and idk if i can do this by myself even if i follow the whole video im afraid i might mess up my controller. but my Rb is double clicking and the last elite series 2 i had another RB issue where it would barely work, should i try to do this or not?
@@corbinhopkins6076 if you cn afford to send it into get fixed I would do that if you don't know what you are doing.
Thanks I just finished replacing the bumper switches on mine by following this guide.
One difference is that gamepad tester, My Xbox, and an other apps I tried would not recognize the controller until I put the backplate on.
It wouldn't work with just the two motherboards connected you mean? Interesting. I'm wondering why in some cases just the two boards is ok, and in others it's not.
I just did this replacement (yay!) and had the same experience. Tried both PC and Xbox at multiple times during the reassembly and nothing worked until the backplate was back on.
When connected the Xbox light on the controller would sort of blink slowly a few times. My guess is that it either has something to do with the pairing status of the controller (won’t sync without some radio/hardware on the backplate?) or the presence of the battery pack. I had my controller tied to a specific account on my Xbox, if that’s a clue.
Maybe you can add a disclaimer pop up in that portion of the video? I kept looking for something I’d done wrong when it wasn’t working with the tester.
@@Steve-cl6dj Thanks for the info. I think you're right, that in some cases it needs the battery present. Wish I knew exactly why. Unfortunately there is no way to add text to the video, but I will add it to the description now.
Thanks man I replaced both my buttons. Not much soldering experience but I pulled it off and they are both working excellent. I used your method of putting a bunch of solder on posts and heating them up worked good. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for making this guide this helped me out tons!
My pleasure!
Great video ! It's really usefull !
I like to repair controllers myself and it's always great to see how others do it. It would be amazing if you could post video more often. ;)
Thank you! I want to. And I think I will. I'm still new to video making and I keep putting off making some because I know how much work they are, for me at least.. haha
This worked! I used the recommended tools from the description and got the job done pretty easily. My controller works perfectly! Thank you.
i struggled to melt the solder.. but i used a heat gun.. my controller works great now
Ridiculous that this needs to be done considering how much it cost
when the calm guy rages
just fixed mine using a airblower with nozzle on end, took face plate off then pointed blower right on button and moved it around while pressing button repeatedly, tested and no more miss-clicks. if anyone has a pc dust blower or vacuum you can set to reverse that might work, i have a high powered blower cause we groom dogs and use it to dry them, but something weaker like those might work. thanks for the video it still helped and good luck to everyone having trouble with this cheap (haha) controller.
This is the ONLY working fix for defective bumpers. Thanks :)
I've found wd40 works great for bumper fix. Haven't had any issues since trying that method.
What did you put WD40 on? What did you do with it?
@@XxxULTIMATEZxxX ikr dude tells us a fix and doesn’t tell us how 😢😢😢
@@ADreadBellow I tried spraying WD contact cleaner (NOT regular WD-40) directly onto the switch, so the fluid got inside it and down the sides of the part that gets pressed inwards.
I haven’t had any issues since then and the switch works perfectly, like new.
@@XxxULTIMATEZxxX would regular work?
@@mcluckyyy Absolutely not. Regular WD-40 would destroy the controller. It has to be the Electrical contact cleaner version.
Bro holy fuck you are awesome, bought your kit on amazon a week ago. Looked up a guide and your vid came up. Bumpers work FLAWLESSLY. I also ditched the rumble packs instead of putting them back in. De soldering was a pain but whatever. Idc wtf Microsoft was thinking with that lead free garbage lmao.
I was just going to buy the switches independently and use the video as a guide, but it was so well done I bought the full kit from you on Amazon. It took a lot longer than I thought it would (took forever to clear the solder out of the switch holes, even with a solder sucker) but the information was clear and easy to follow. Thank you very much, this is an absolute night and day difference for my controller!
Thanks so much and great job on the repair! Awesome!
I came back to try again one last time. I can not for the life of me, find a way to put the new switches into the proper spot. I either bend them, or part gets through, then one of the prongs isn’t lined up. I haven’t actually raged in a very very long time, being as I’m almost 40. I just threw the motherboard across the room, then laughed at myself, and realized I’ve given way too much time to this endeavor.
Thanks for the helpful video. I’m glad I attempted it. I haven’t soldered anything since about 20 years ago. This frustration is beyond what I’m equipped to deal with at the moment. Good luck to everyone else. IDK why MSFT hasn’t just made a 2.1 with reliable components. I’d pay $100 more if this POS didn’t break all the time.
Reminds me of my first couple controllers. Sorry it didn't work out :( I agree though, they shouldn't have made a part of the controller WORSE than previous models, especially at the particular price point.
Just order a new one send the old one back problem solved:)
Tried that, microsoft basically said im not a valued customer and they dont care that i spent $200 on one of their products and that they cant give me a refund, replacement nor something as simple as fixing the same controller and sending it back to me once they have your money they have your money unless you buy warranty with the money that you can use to buy a fusion pro which is basically like the elite at the end of the day they still make profit with the warranty because im sure the money it costs for them to make 1 controller is way less than $100
Xbox is replacing brand new controllers with this issue with refurbished ones. So if you want someone's else's used controller in place of your new one, send it back to Microsoft. I've tried calling them on this, but they make it impossible to talk to anyone who can help. Shady.
@@jakobgeneration510 hmm weird if true. My first series 2 had a ton of problems after 4 months or so. When they extended the warranty I sent mine in for a replacement. 8 months now and I’m just starting to get the bumper issue. Much better than the first one. Still shit overall though.
I just bought a new controller and then returned it with the old controller instead 👌🏼😂
Why don't more people think like us. Kudos bro. Kids complaining about companies ripping them off with broke products but are too shy to buy a new one and return the broken one in the same box. I guess that's why they complain anonymously on youtube. lol
Yo what store did you buy and return from thinking of doing the same thing?
@@gohh9431 I do it at Walmart every time. 👌🏼💯
Thoroughly appreciate this. I'll replacing the daft switches w/ something a lot more superior. Excellent presentation if I may add.
Thank you so much!
Awesome. Will be doing this asap. E waste sucks, so I'm happy to do my part to repair my things!
Thanks for the great step-by-step guide as well as the switch kit. First time soldering electronics and I'd say it went pretty OK.
A lot of commenters stating you could do the fix without unsoldering the rumble packs, which is what I did. However the cables are very fragile and one of them snapped on me :( I would recommend just unsoldering them, it'll save you a lot of trouble.
Thanks for the comment! Great job on the repair. Hopefully you were able to solder back on the rumble pack cable.
@@SOSSGAMING I didn't at first because I was lazy and there wasn't any metal visible where it snapped. But yeah after my ocd kept clawing at me I ended up fixing it lol
@@cbrngrz6966 Awesome :)
You’re an absolute star. Excellent video, well explained, all the info, right tools. Spot on. Couldn’t have repaired mine without this
This was the best video I’ve seen. Mainly because I also got the kit that had the QR code with it
Awesome thanks for the comment! Hope the install goes/went well.
Thanks for this extremely detailed video. I don't (yet) need to do this, but it's fascinating to watch.
This tutorial is great, I've never soldered anything before. I just ordered everything the description and followed what you did visually. I will say I was a pin to get the solder out o f the motherboard holes (where the switches go). What I did was use the solder sucker from the opposite side while using solder iron on the opposite side, which worked great. Thank you for the vid
Awesome! Well done.
if someone sees this and is struggling to unscrew the joysticks, I found it helps a lot to heat the joy sticks up. I have used a hair dryer to do so and they unscrew way easier when they are a bit warmed up.
Oh good! And that didn't hurt the plastic at all?
@@SOSSGAMING It didn't take much heat at all when I did it, and even then I just roughly covered the area surrounding the joystick with a hand towel. It might if you heat it up a ton but I only did so it was just warm to the touch if anything. Controller has been goin strong for 1.5 years after it! (till today with a bad LB button which is how I ended up here LOL)
@@ASassyP That's awesome! Glad it's been holding up. Thanks for sharing the tip.
@@SOSSGAMING of course! Thanks for the great vid, I didn't realize in my last disassembly that these switches were easily accessible to take out and replace so this is awesome news for me!
Ultra useful video. The main issue I had was to de-solder the switch. Using the soldering iron made nothing (we were 2, on using the iron the other one pulling the pin .. well trying to!). In the end I cut it out and had to drill. It worked but it was ugly. Changing the joypad on a standard Xbone controller was much easier in comparison.
Oh man, sorry to hear about the struggles. Saying it was drilled into it sent shivers down my spine lol 😅 Glad it worked out in the end though!
got my switches off but the bottom right of the right switch broke off and is currently stuck in the hole but i really dont want to have to drill 😭
@@savvykjon I think you should still be able to heat up that hole and push the broken piece out a bit with the soldering iron tip (add solder if needed) then use tweezers to take it out while the solder is melted. Then get the solder out like normal. Use braided wick and/or solder sucker and/or desoldering iron to remove the solder. Please don't drill! 😅 Watch some other RUclips videos on soldering/removing solder if you need. Lot of helpful people out there.
@@SOSSGAMING thanks for the response! I tried adding more solder but whatever was stuck there wouldn't budge at all even with putting a significant amount of force. I eventually was able to make the hole just big enough with some tweezers and good wrist movement to get the new switch to to go in and everything works flawlessly now😅. This guide was very helpful as I've never repaired any components on an elite controller before so thanks! 🙏🏽
@@savvykjon Phew! Glad it worked out. Always impresses me how resourceful some people can be. Good job.
Just wanted to add to the feedback below, thanks for such a good guide and for saving me from having to replace the pad!
my top left bumper wasnt working correctly i followed your video to get the face plate off and removed the top bumper i couldnt see any obvious dust i gave it a brush around the contacts anyways, put it back together it works now thanks. i only went as far as removing the face plate the top bumpers can be removed and replaced after that. i didnt snap any clips all good.
Awesome! Hopefully the issue is resolved!
I’m so disgusted with Xbox controllers at this point. I went through well over 5 sets of replacement bumpers on my series 1 controller because of the flimsy plastic piece in the middle that acts as the spring constantly snapping and now I’m having the issue discussed in the video with my series 2. I seen a comment someone made about these being engineered fail points and I 1000% agree, there’s absolutely no way these glaring issues would get passed quality control at Microsoft if they weren’t intentional. This idea also seems to be reinforced by the fact that they’ve gone out of their way to make it difficult for the consumer to service the controller themselves forcing most people to refer back to Microsoft for a fix. I’m gonna buy the kit in the description (incredible video btw:) and repair my controller just to save my investment and after that I’m most likely done with elite controllers going forward. These controllers really could be incredible if they were truly designed for performance but it’s obvious at this point that they want them to break so they can get extra money out of you. It’s really disappointing because I love the overall design and feel of it in your hand but this constant need for maintenance is getting very annoying.
to add to people's notes here: when soldering the new switches in, make sure none of the solder is touching or else they won't work properly
By that, he means to make sure that there is no residual solder forming a connection between the tactile switch’s 4 pins that poke through the circuit board to anchor it in place. You should only put enough solder on each pin to fill the gaps in the hole it sticks through so it is bonded to the board.
did this and unfortunately broke my controller, it was user error though. This video was very helpful and educational, thank you! if i wasn't so dumb i probably could've fixed it.
:(
I was really considering tossing my series 2 out after many frustrating months of playing with bad bumpers, thank you SOSS gaming! my controllers workin' like new!
I'm so angry at my Series 2. I'm on my fourth. Let me be clear - I am making a constant, conscious effort to baby these damn controllers. The problem is that there aren't any third party controllers that have ALL of the features!
Scuf's new instinct is close, but the back buttons do not compare to the S2 paddle ergonomics. You also do not have the case/charging case combo of the S2. It is much lighter and doesn't feel good.
The Razer Wolverine would be perfect, but it is wired. I have a huge living room, sit far away, and will not have a tether running across the room for a dog to rip the Xbox off the wall by accident.
There are various others, but you sacrifice the triple-trigger-stops, or the case, or the paddles, or the wireless.
There is no alternative with every single feature of the S2, but damn the quality of each component is garbage!
Thanks for the tutorial man. This was actually really easy to do. I just went to amazon and bought the kit from your link, and went to work following your instructions. I am no pro at soldering by any means but this was pretty easy. I would say to anyone that you gotta try to get all four points of the switch hot at the same time to remove it. I should of just cut it but I wanted the challenge. That was the hardest part for me.