Nice presentation, right to the point, and fast forward through the stuff not needed to be watched. Too bad every one dosen't do the same. Learned something without wasting time. GOOD JOB
That's a great video, many thanks. I just purchased an 1860 on Saturday and the arbour started to wobble after the second cylinder I shot on Sunday. Typical!
That looks like a success! I am sure the choice to use Locktyte was the right one, the red will set off and not creep loose again, the odd thing is I have blue Loctyte and it is in a red container? You would think they could use the container as a colour code. Giving this problem some thought I think if the barrel /cylinder gap was excessive, on firing the cylinder would move forward, then back violently on firing, that would soon stretch the base pin, so the barrel/cylinder gap is something to look at regularly. Many thanks for posting this excellent video. Chris B.
Had to stop in to see your work. I recently bought one of these and wanted this fix in my brain just in case my pistol developed the same problem. Thank you very much. Good work!
I have a 1860 pietta made about the same time, in my case though the arbor hole drilled in the barrel was drilled to deep, this caused a wobble too. I added stacked shims epoxied down inside to take up the space, I will however store your information for the future if I run into this problem. Thanks for sharing 👍
did about the same, just JB no shim. I now avoid Pietta's or other lesser knowns from back in my day, but they keep me on my toes. I'm still a SUCKER for a Muzzle Loader. Like a Big Ol Bass Taking the Bait! then I'm Hooked on Shop Time.
I've made this type repair I go a step more and drill and tap the end of the arbor to put a set screw in. Then I can adjust the short arbor to the correct length. What losens the arbor most time is a short arbor. When the wedge is driven in too far it pushes the arbor up that losens it over time and you get the same problem again.
Nice... just my 2 cents... when ready to assemble, mount the arbor on the reciver, then the barrel and the wedge, make a mark on the arbor and the reciver so you can re mount with thread lock and align the marks, then remount the barrel and should be pretty close.
@@theophilhist6455 a proper dowel? A nail just like he did. Is exactly what gunsmith's recommend! Cause, it's hard but, still soft enough to drill back out if you need to again, in the future. He did it proper. Lol!
I have a Second Gen Colt 1851 Navy that has a loose arbor. If I had a drill press, I'd try what you did there. Closest I have is a handheld power drill. Not sure I should try it with that. That leaves me with getting a gunsmith to fix it, or buy a drill press. If I had a drill press, I feel your instructions would be a great guide to doing this job. Thanks.
Good editing for time: most cliks know what you assumed they know. Subbd! I was expecting more trouble getting it out! Woulda used a different stock for new pin? Naw, you were right. Peining was a great idea that didn’t occur to me! Don’t expect that threadlocker to last.
Just got my 1860 44 colt snubnose after 6 month back order. Feels great in my big hands. New to B P . Tough to find Goex or any B P. Guess i will have to use pyro. Gonna try the pellets with wad and 454 balls. Got it for protection while camping etc. Those are two beauties you have. Thanks for your channel. Talk about cold, it was 2 deg. F this am. so I'll wait to bust a cap.
Order Olde Eynsford, swiss or Goes, very well worth it. Pyrodex is awful stuff, much more corrosive and harder to clean than real black. Triple 7 is betterthan pyrodex bit still far inferior to real black. The only purpose for the fakes is easier storage regulations for the murchant. Claims of subs being cleaner are utter hogwash and so misleading and wrong.With real black as long as you use the proper grease and enough of it you fon't even need to be fussy about cleaning or even that quick about cleanig. With subs you do have to be fussy and immediate or you will get dsmage.
Great video. Especially liked not actually using JB Weld. Never been fond of that product. it has always been "works on TV, but not when you get it home" for me. Peening over the metal was a great idea to tighten up the arbor. Pretty sure that is how the town gunsmith would have done it. (anybody need to see the fast bits, just put the speed down to 1/4 and turn off the sound). I was working on an old 1849 and was trying to see what that tiny pin was for...good thing, I won't have to mess with that. Thanks for the knowledge!
I think I have watched just about enough of these Colt Pietta failures to make up my mind that I will never own this, dinosaur technology! You did a good job but I would have probably sold it and bought a Model New Army instead, I prefer the top strap!
I've hand/have all types and all have their advantages and disadvantages. All are somewhat unreliable - including the Ruger Old Army. Nature of cap and ball revolvers.
They are working fine. Just got stored away and other guns have come along to play with. A couple of Ruger Old Armys, a couple of first generation Colt SAAs. Winter is almost here and I'm less likely to get out. I use to hunt but last ten years I've cut back to trying to keep the varmints in check.
You should have skipped the red loctite and used blue instead. Should anyone have to take it apart in the future they will have to use a torch to break the red loctite free.
Nice presentation, right to the point, and fast forward through the stuff not needed to be watched. Too bad every one dosen't do the same. Learned something without wasting time. GOOD JOB
That's a great video, many thanks. I just purchased an 1860 on Saturday and the arbour started to wobble after the second cylinder I shot on Sunday. Typical!
Nice, I had no idea the pin was in there. Thanks for the tips and tricks!
That looks like a success! I am sure the choice to use Locktyte was the right one, the red will set off and not creep loose again, the odd thing is I have blue Loctyte and it is in a red container? You would think they could use the container as a colour code. Giving this problem some thought I think if the barrel /cylinder gap was excessive, on firing the cylinder would move forward, then back violently on firing, that would soon stretch the base pin, so the barrel/cylinder gap is something to look at regularly. Many thanks for posting this excellent video. Chris B.
Had to stop in to see your work. I recently bought one of these and wanted this fix in my brain just in case my pistol developed the same problem. Thank you very much. Good work!
I have a 1860 pietta made about the same time, in my case though the arbor hole drilled in the barrel was drilled to deep, this caused a wobble too.
I added stacked shims epoxied down inside to take up the space, I will however store your information for the future if I run into this problem.
Thanks for sharing 👍
did about the same, just JB no shim. I now avoid Pietta's or other lesser knowns from back in my day, but they keep me on my toes. I'm still a SUCKER for a Muzzle Loader. Like a Big Ol Bass Taking the Bait! then I'm Hooked on Shop Time.
@davefellhoelter1343 I did the same thing on mine only used epoxy on the shim at the end, have a good day sir.
I've made this type repair I go a step more and drill and tap the end of the arbor to put a set screw in. Then I can adjust the short arbor to the correct length. What losens the arbor most time is a short arbor. When the wedge is driven in too far it pushes the arbor up that losens it over time and you get the same problem again.
Nice... just my 2 cents... when ready to assemble, mount the arbor on the reciver, then the barrel and the wedge, make a mark on the arbor and the reciver so you can re mount with thread lock and align the marks, then remount the barrel and should be pretty close.
Good repair ...but personally I would have used a proper dowel with a press fit with Loctite green
@@theophilhist6455 a proper dowel? A nail just like he did. Is exactly what gunsmith's recommend! Cause, it's hard but, still soft enough to drill back out if you need to again, in the future. He did it proper. Lol!
I have a Second Gen Colt 1851 Navy that has a loose arbor. If I had a drill press, I'd try what you did there. Closest I have is a handheld power drill. Not sure I should try it with that. That leaves me with getting a gunsmith to fix it, or buy a drill press. If I had a drill press, I feel your instructions would be a great guide to doing this job. Thanks.
Great job , thanks I thought the arbor just twisted in under pressure OOPS!
Great video, just picked up one from 1986 with the same issue. I like your fix
Good editing for time: most cliks know what you assumed they know. Subbd! I was expecting more trouble getting it out! Woulda used a different stock for new pin? Naw, you were right. Peining was a great idea that didn’t occur to me! Don’t expect that threadlocker to last.
Very nice repair ! Thanks a lot for the video 👍
Thank you for sharing, great tip. Something to watch out for when picking up a new tool.
Just got my 1860 44 colt snubnose after 6 month back order. Feels great in my big hands. New to B P . Tough to find Goex or any B P. Guess i will have to use pyro. Gonna try the pellets with wad and 454 balls. Got it for protection while camping etc. Those are two beauties you have. Thanks for your channel. Talk about cold, it was 2 deg. F this am. so I'll wait to bust a cap.
Order Olde Eynsford, swiss or Goes, very well worth it. Pyrodex is awful stuff, much more corrosive and harder to clean than real black. Triple 7 is betterthan pyrodex bit still far inferior to real black. The only purpose for the fakes is easier storage regulations for the murchant. Claims of subs being cleaner are utter hogwash and so misleading and wrong.With real black as long as you use the proper grease and enough of it you fon't even need to be fussy about cleaning or even that quick about cleanig. With subs you do have to be fussy and immediate or you will get dsmage.
Great video. Especially liked not actually using JB Weld. Never been fond of that product. it has always been "works on TV, but not when you get it home" for me. Peening over the metal was a great idea to tighten up the arbor. Pretty sure that is how the town gunsmith would have done it. (anybody need to see the fast bits, just put the speed down to 1/4 and turn off the sound). I was working on an old 1849 and was trying to see what that tiny pin was for...good thing, I won't have to mess with that. Thanks for the knowledge!
Good information about your loose arbor, having some machine tools I probably would have done somethings different but all in all good job.
Something different why? That's exactly how gunsmith's say, to do it! That's proper. Lol!
Been thinking about getting into black powder I appreciate the statement about the brass I will be sure to stick to steel frames good shooting brother
great fix ,,thanks for sharing , cheers big ears from downunder
Nicely done Sr.
Good video. Have a armi San Marco 1860 Richard Mason conversion with a bent arbor hope to straiten or replace
A geat fix for that 1860
Great job. Thankyou. Cheers.
Great job on that repair. Good to know information.
Good info, thanks for posting.
As always .
Thank you for sharing
Great video!
Well done video. 👍
Great job well done 👏🏻👏🏻
Excellent info and video...thanks!
I think I have watched just about enough of these Colt Pietta failures to make up my mind that I will never own this, dinosaur technology! You did a good job but I would have probably sold it and bought a Model New Army instead, I prefer the top strap!
I've hand/have all types and all have their advantages and disadvantages. All are somewhat unreliable - including the Ruger Old Army. Nature of cap and ball revolvers.
Very nice
Thank you
I have a colt 1851 navy with the same issue. Would you be able to fix it for me?
Sorry, no. I just work on my own guns. I'm not in the gunsmith business.
How was the length of the arbor into the barrel assembly? Short? Long? Just right?
They were a little short. I dropped a small washer in the bottom of the arbor hole and it worked out just right.
@@owlcreekraiders1329Great video...I saved it under "Gunsmithing"! BTW...who made the holsters?
@Master...deBater looks like Roger Brogue Republic, Missouri
Excellent vid, wow
could also use reclamation?
Good stuff.
Any updates? How has it held up to shooting since the repair?
They are working fine. Just got stored away and other guns have come along to play with. A couple of Ruger Old Armys, a couple of first generation Colt SAAs. Winter is almost here and I'm less likely to get out. I use to hunt but last ten years I've cut back to trying to keep the varmints in check.
nice machine work pard. *LIKED --LT
Pretty clever.
♡♡♡♡ nice work
Check your Mic.Couldn't hear a word you said.
Good deal
as a mater of fact i use lighter fluid rather than nail polish remover!
You should have skipped the red loctite and used blue instead. Should anyone have to take it apart in the future they will have to use a torch to break the red loctite free.
Surely, if the arbour wobbles in future the loctite has already broken free?
@@mknight702 Not necessarily and you are presuming the only reason to remove the arbor is if it is loose.