I sanded down spacers to put in the channel for an Uberti 1851 and 1860. When I got the 1849 pocket, I couldn’t find spacers small enough, so I put aluminum foil balls into the channel and hammered them flat one by one until the aluminum compressed into a flat unremovable plug. It fixed the cylinder binding and keeps the barrel perfectly aligned. If only Uberti would fix this issue, their guns would be nearly perfect.
I agree. I find it strange, that Uberti still produce their guns with an arbor that doesnt bottom out, as they obviously put a lot of effort into making them historically accurate. They reportedly claim, that having a short arbor isnt a problem. I dont agree with that. Having the arbor bottoming out,either by welding, shimming, stop screw etc, is well worh it, as it gives you a rock solid joint and a constant endshake of your choice.
@@gaslyktan I also have experienced firsthand how a short arbor stresses the frame. I shot the arbor loose on an 1860 Army with 400 foot pounds. After correcting the arbor, it can now handle 500+ foot pounds for a full cylinder. They should really fix the length.
I have a Colt 3rd generation 1860 Army which I believe were made from Uberti parts. I didn't notice it right away, but the barrel had a cant to the right. I searched for a gunsmith who could help me with this problem and found an amateur gunsmith who did the job for me. He did a great job, he said the end of the arbor was bent which was caused the barrel cant. He also fixed the short arbor problem by attaching a piece to the end. He didn't use a bolt stock like you do, he just affixed a piece on the end. I'm not sure how he did it but it's still going strong! He said he discovered this short arbor problem when he purchased an original 1851 Navy frame which was never used to build a full gun, it was an original Colt spare part. He noticed the end of the arbor was too long and surmised it was left long so it could be fitted to properly bottom out in the arbor hole in the barrel. I have seen this barrel cant problem on every Uberti or Colt Uberti I have purchased, admittedly I haven't seen a lot but everyone I've purchased had this problem which is why I returned them. I discovered Colt 2nd generation revolvers do not have this barrel cant problem so I exclusively buy 2nd gen. I don't get why Uberti doesn't just make their guns properly. Even Colt repros aren't perfect, I've had to fix the timing so the bolt lands properly in the ramp and doesn't cause a groove/drag mark around the cylinder. Why they make a product which requires more work to work properly is beyond me, it would be like buying a new car and then have to take it to a mechanic to get it to run right.
The way I use do it is with 5mm flat washers and JB weld. It isn't perfect but it's a halfass fix. The set screw method and refitting the wedge is certainly the right way to do it.
Good video... thanks... Hard to understand why Uberti persist in making their arbors too short. I have fixed a few by various methods... spacers in the hole, extending the arbor by added metal, both steel and bronze, filed back to an exact fit. Not needed to remove the arbor that way...
I have a Pietta that I had to drive the wedge out with a hammer, and then couldn't get it back in. I widened the slot a little bit to the front on the arbor and still had to narrow the wedge down a little before I could get it back in. You are right, quality control is not what it ought to be. That set screw idea is great.
I still can't get my wedge out... And I literally am doing everything possible to try and get it out other than shooting the wedge out with another pistol
I bought 2 open tops from a "premium" seller that were great with very little work needed out of the box. The uberti 1860 fluted cylinder cap and ball revolver i bought from them, for a premium price, needed the wedge fitted and the hand slot was so poorly machined it was a nightmare getting the hand out. Got that all fixed and have a usable revolver. I doubt I'll ever buy another colt style cap and ball pistol due to the work required to have a functional pistol and i don't like remingtons.
I had my Uberti 1851 Navy for 15 years, YT has been around for 25 years, this is 2023 and only NOW I hear about this arbor alignment issue, where the blank was all these short arbor/cylinder alignment issue videos 15 years ago when I watch dozens of 1851 Navy videos........... So I check my gun without cylinder and it overlaps the frame by 1/16", I might just add a washer in arbor hole.... I mostly shoot 38LC with a Kirst Conversion cylinder I got soon after I bought the gun.
Best reproduction 1860 Army were made in Belgium in the 1960's. Arbor is prefect on them as is the rest of the gun to include serial numbers in all the correct areas if you can find one.
I work on them all the time and that just isn’t true….. There are numerous variations some with chambers bore too deep and the bolt stops blown out, some with chambers so shallow that they won’t take more than 15 gr of powder, some with excessive end gap, some with poorly fitted and finished parts, the list goes on and on!
I've never fire mine it's still new in the box but this one has a great arbor fit the gap between the cylinder and barrel is about the thickness of a dollar bill. The screws are harder than my Italian revolvers. I pulled it out of the safe after I saw your post and looked it over. You never see these any more. The few I've seen have been cartridge conversions some private gun Smith did. One was a Thuer conversion with a cylinder made in Germay. I always wanted one for some reason.
I'm having issues with a used 2nd model dragoon by uberti. The arbor isn't long enough (I think). When I put the wedge in it starts moving at an angle as soon as it gets to the arbor. It requires force, a mallet, to insert the wedge. Before the wedge even gets through the arbor cut out the cylinder is locked hard. Zero movement. The barrel meets the receiver easy. No force is required. Should I file the cutout on the arbor to allow the pin to slide easy? Any help is very much appreciated. It's one of 4 uberti pistols that were my grandfathers and I don't want to do damage.
I never file on the barrel or the arbor and doing so will ruin the gun. This video shows the correct way to fix the problem and after the length of the arbor is corrected the wedge may need to be filed on the leading edge so that it can be inserted in with thumb pressure until the nose of the retaining spring pops up on the off side. I don’t charge much for this service just email me: buckaroobarnes@yahoo.com
After watching this again, I'm wondering what changed between cylinder and barrel........ In my mind, I think all adjustments should start with right amount of gap between barrel and cylinder......
It doesnt necessarily change the gap between cylinder and barrel. If the arbor bottoms out (as it should do) it will create a stiff and solid joint, when driving the wedge in. Some kitchen tables are held together by wedges; the crossmember has a distinct shoulder, to act as a stop, so that you can put an actual preload on the wedge. Without the defined stop, the legs would keep bending, as you drive the wedge further in. An arbor that doesnt bottom out, mimics this situation (to a degree). -The barrel lug stops on the frame, but the barrel will continue moving backwards/upwards until you have the desired gap between barrel and cylinder. When you reach that point, you might have insufficient preload on the wedge When the arbor bottoms out, you can actually hear the pitch going up, when tapping on the wedge, as it is creating a good preload. A bonus is that the gap will allways be the same, regardless of the position of the wedge. It makes a big difference.
What is the situation with Pietas? Do I need to do this with an Army or Navy if I only shoot black powder. What is the best way to ship it given the current anti-gun situation?
Bought a NIB Uberti Walker and straight out of the box (2021 model) the first cylinder using triple 7 and rb the gun literally fell apart in my hand! pin came out and arbor backed out.
I cant even get my wedge out... Never been shot, and litterally everything short if shooting the wedge out with another pistol... I dont know what to do
Going with a Remington saves you a substantial amount of trouble, with its superior construction. That being said, I still like the colts; especially the Navy.
"I Love" the set screw Idea! Why did I not think of this? Supper easy, fast, adjustable, perfect. I have the same scar opposite finger.
I sanded down spacers to put in the channel for an Uberti 1851 and 1860. When I got the 1849 pocket, I couldn’t find spacers small enough, so I put aluminum foil balls into the channel and hammered them flat one by one until the aluminum compressed into a flat unremovable plug. It fixed the cylinder binding and keeps the barrel perfectly aligned. If only Uberti would fix this issue, their guns would be nearly perfect.
Innovative solution!
Saved $175 too according to this commercial !
I agree. I find it strange, that Uberti still produce their guns with an arbor that doesnt bottom out, as they obviously put a lot of effort into making them historically accurate. They reportedly claim, that having a short arbor isnt a problem. I dont agree with that. Having the arbor bottoming out,either by welding, shimming, stop screw etc, is well worh it, as it gives you a rock solid joint and a constant endshake of your choice.
@@gaslyktan I also have experienced firsthand how a short arbor stresses the frame. I shot the arbor loose on an 1860 Army with 400 foot pounds. After correcting the arbor, it can now handle 500+ foot pounds for a full cylinder. They should really fix the length.
I have a Colt 3rd generation 1860 Army which I believe were made from Uberti parts. I didn't notice it right away, but the barrel had a cant to the right. I searched for a gunsmith who could help me with this problem and found an amateur gunsmith who did the job for me. He did a great job, he said the end of the arbor was bent which was caused the barrel cant. He also fixed the short arbor problem by attaching a piece to the end. He didn't use a bolt stock like you do, he just affixed a piece on the end. I'm not sure how he did it but it's still going strong!
He said he discovered this short arbor problem when he purchased an original 1851 Navy frame which was never used to build a full gun, it was an original Colt spare part. He noticed the end of the arbor was too long and surmised it was left long so it could be fitted to properly bottom out in the arbor hole in the barrel.
I have seen this barrel cant problem on every Uberti or Colt Uberti I have purchased, admittedly I haven't seen a lot but everyone I've purchased had this problem which is why I returned them. I discovered Colt 2nd generation revolvers do not have this barrel cant problem so I exclusively buy 2nd gen.
I don't get why Uberti doesn't just make their guns properly. Even Colt repros aren't perfect, I've had to fix the timing so the bolt lands properly in the ramp and doesn't cause a groove/drag mark around the cylinder. Why they make a product which requires more work to work properly is beyond me, it would be like buying a new car and then have to take it to a mechanic to get it to run right.
The way I use do it is with 5mm flat washers and JB weld. It isn't perfect but it's a halfass fix. The set screw method and refitting the wedge is certainly the right way to do it.
I own 6 Uberti revolvers, 4 of them percussion revolvers and I guess I've been lucky and I haven't had any issues (thank God)
Great video, thank you.
Good video... thanks...
Hard to understand why Uberti persist in making their arbors too short. I have fixed a few by various methods... spacers in the hole, extending the arbor by added metal, both steel and bronze, filed back to an exact fit. Not needed to remove the arbor that way...
Sure but why not insure that the arbor won’t come loose at the same time?
The set screw is an excellent idea.
I just got an 1851 Navy (Uberti) and the arbor was dead on right from the factory. Either they updated their machining, or I got lucky.
I have a Pietta that I had to drive the wedge out with a hammer, and then couldn't get it back in. I widened the slot a little bit to the front on the arbor and still had to narrow the wedge down a little before I could get it back in. You are right, quality control is not what it ought to be. That set screw idea is great.
I still can't get my wedge out... And I literally am doing everything possible to try and get it out other than shooting the wedge out with another pistol
I bought 2 open tops from a "premium" seller that were great with very little work needed out of the box. The uberti 1860 fluted cylinder cap and ball revolver i bought from them, for a premium price, needed the wedge fitted and the hand slot was so poorly machined it was a nightmare getting the hand out. Got that all fixed and have a usable revolver. I doubt I'll ever buy another colt style cap and ball pistol due to the work required to have a functional pistol and i don't like remingtons.
Great Video!!! This guy does the best custom work I've seen on these type guns...
At very reasonable prices also!
I had my Uberti 1851 Navy for 15 years, YT has been around for 25 years, this is 2023 and only NOW I hear about this arbor alignment issue, where the blank was all these short arbor/cylinder alignment issue videos 15 years ago when I watch dozens of 1851 Navy videos........... So I check my gun without cylinder and it overlaps the frame by 1/16", I might just add a washer in arbor hole.... I mostly shoot 38LC with a Kirst Conversion cylinder I got soon after I bought the gun.
That's all you need, probably about a 5mm split washer! Not necessary to pay for something you can do yourself unless your lazy or afraid of doing it.
Buckoff...love the video of North American Speakers!
Thanks, I have an audio fetish….lol
@@SayMyNameOutLoud I had the very first set of those speakers. I had the prototype, it was an unfinished cabinet. Amazing speakers.
Best reproduction 1860 Army were made in Belgium in the 1960's. Arbor is prefect on them as is the rest of the gun to include serial numbers in all the correct areas if you can find one.
I work on them all the time and that just isn’t true…..
There are numerous variations some with chambers bore too deep and the bolt stops blown out, some with chambers so shallow that they won’t take more than 15 gr of powder, some with excessive end gap, some with poorly fitted and finished parts, the list goes on and on!
I've never fire mine it's still new in the box but this one has a great arbor fit the gap between the cylinder and barrel is about the thickness of a dollar bill. The screws are harder than my Italian revolvers. I pulled it out of the safe after I saw your post and looked it over. You never see these any more. The few I've seen have been cartridge conversions some private gun Smith did. One was a Thuer conversion with a cylinder made in Germay. I always wanted one for some reason.
TRY TO GET CAPS FOR ANY OF THESE CAP AND BALL GUNS. YOU CANT GET THEM.
That's why people are doing videos like this, LOL. No caps to do any shooting.
Their is a kit, While it's not perfect it does fill the need while your waiting!
what about on their open top models, mine binds up if the wedge is too far in about it
Yours definitely needs an arbor correction, email me
@@buckoff4162 will do would want to get funds in order so I'm not wasting your time.
I'm having issues with a used 2nd model dragoon by uberti. The arbor isn't long enough (I think). When I put the wedge in it starts moving at an angle as soon as it gets to the arbor. It requires force, a mallet, to insert the wedge. Before the wedge even gets through the arbor cut out the cylinder is locked hard. Zero movement. The barrel meets the receiver easy. No force is required. Should I file the cutout on the arbor to allow the pin to slide easy? Any help is very much appreciated. It's one of 4 uberti pistols that were my grandfathers and I don't want to do damage.
I never file on the barrel or the arbor and doing so will ruin the gun. This video shows the correct way to fix the problem and after the length of the arbor is corrected the wedge may need to be filed on the leading edge so that it can be inserted in with thumb pressure until the nose of the retaining spring pops up on the off side. I don’t charge much for this service just email me: buckaroobarnes@yahoo.com
After watching this again, I'm wondering what changed between cylinder and barrel........ In my mind, I think all adjustments should start with right amount of gap between barrel and cylinder......
It doesnt necessarily change the gap between cylinder and barrel. If the arbor bottoms out (as it should do) it will create a stiff and solid joint, when driving the wedge in. Some kitchen tables are held together by wedges; the crossmember has a distinct shoulder, to act as a stop, so that you can put an actual preload on the wedge. Without the defined stop, the legs would keep bending, as you drive the wedge further in. An arbor that doesnt bottom out, mimics this situation (to a degree). -The barrel lug stops on the frame, but the barrel will continue moving backwards/upwards until you have the desired gap between barrel and cylinder. When you reach that point, you might have insufficient preload on the wedge When the arbor bottoms out, you can actually hear the pitch going up, when tapping on the wedge, as it is creating a good preload. A bonus is that the gap will allways be the same, regardless of the position of the wedge. It makes a big difference.
What is the situation with Pietas? Do I need to do this with an Army or Navy if I only shoot black powder. What is the best way to ship it given the current anti-gun situation?
Typically Pietta’s are fine!
A cap and ball is not a firearm and can be legally mailed….
facebook.com/cartridgeconversion
Bought a NIB Uberti Walker and straight out of the box (2021 model) the first cylinder using triple 7 and rb the gun literally fell apart in my hand! pin came out and arbor backed out.
smh
@@HircineDaWolf The guy is a Genius! lol
I cant even get my wedge out... Never been shot, and litterally everything short if shooting the wedge out with another pistol... I dont know what to do
Where is all the "Uberti's are junk" comments?
Where is all the "any of them can be Junk" comments?
facebook.com/cartridgeconversion/
the PN at the bottom mean thats a pietta not a uberta
lol
Just buy the 1858 Remington model new Army closed top and the problem will be solved!
You sound like a Glock owner
Going with a Remington saves you a substantial amount of trouble, with its superior construction. That being said, I still like the colts; especially the Navy.