He's such a wealth of knowledge. Something about watching someone work on a craft they've mastered is just excellent. Just to kick back and learn a thing or two with the confidence that whatever he says has been time tested. Almost makes me feel like I can do those things, or at least have the confidence to try, ya know?
@@CrashRacknShoot You Can do these things. That's Mark's intent. He is sharing his knowledge (Knowledge=Experience) via being a teacher. I say this because he has said that. Use his (and others) experience to save yourself time, money and experimentation. This is hard earned information that you can use and trust to get yourself get good results. There might be 20 ways to do a particular task. Some will obviously be wrong but of the ones that are right, experience is what let's you get good results with the least chance of screwing it up! Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
Mark, I cannot thank you enough for allowing us to come into your shop and see how and why metal transformations take place! You are a master, no doubt. With my cigar in hand I totally immerse myself into your subjects. Common sense and deliberate approaches to smithing is fascinating and I hope someone out there is learning your methods. BRAVO ZULÚ!
I always love it when Mark finishes up a project. He always has that look of accomplishment. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, Mark. You know we appreciate everything you and Bruno do for the community. 🤙🏾
Watching agin for the 20th time. Thanks agin guys! I wish we all could spend every day in the shop with you sucking up knowledge the time you share is priceless and I can’t stress enough how lucky we are you are sharing the secrets other stubborn wizards have let die off due to fear of educating themselves out of a job.
Mark I want to thank you for producing all of these videos. I have been working on an old Spanish Mauser 7x57 model 93. It was partially sporterized. I am working on putting it into its original configuration. I went and rust blued this rifle using, non-iodized salt, hydrogen peroxide, and distilled vinegar. I used my oven set at 215° to give it dry heat, then I added some boiling water to a stainless pan and put it in the oven for humidity. After a while I pulled the pan of water and brought it back to boiling. Then I dropped the parts into the boiling water for 45 minutes. I then scrubbed everything down with 0000 steel wool. Now it is all coated in sae 30. It looks really good!
I’d like to thank both of you for the 3 videos on this. I ordered Bob’s American Rust Blue and I’m now bluing for the first time in the comfort of my garage. Fine work and many thanks gentlemen.
I did this after the original post ,contacted Bob to help select the right product to use and I glad to say my gun turned out beautiful !!!! Thanks Mark And Bob
Never go easy on Brake Clean... You want to use enough to move the oil completely off of the part you're cleaning. if you give something a light spray you can end up with a line of oil a little further down where the break clean evaporated. (Not directed at Mark, just a hard learned lesson.)
As a firefighter I have always been told to watch out for linseed oil. That it will spontaneously combust. Why? Mark you just taught me something. I never knew, nor had found that linseed oil can polymerize. All of the sudden the Hazmat Tech part of my brain lights up. We watch out for monomers and temperature controlled polymers due to their explosion hazard in containers. Linseed oil on a cotton cloth begins to polymerize and generate heat. Thence comes pyrolysis and combustion. Thank you again for teaching me something.
And I just learnt something from your comment. Thanks mate… just googled linseed oil combustion after your comment and I had no idea. (And I occasionally use it!) 👍🏻👍🏻
Your videos are always must watch for me. I was able to move on from using 4-0 steel wool to carding brushes and finally to an actual carding wheel that I mounted on a $50 dollar well used craftsman drill press I found at an estate sale. I had to rewire the power cord and use it as a press to bore out the carding wheel so I could fab up an arbor for it. Currently working on a No. 5 Enfield that had a bright white flash hider. I have the hider looking plausible which is what I wanted.
Agree my friend! Hen you watch a master who also can explain so well for the shade tree repairman is a great combo. Why Brownells has not gotten with you to do a series and offer some courses in person is a crime!
This video explains to me the reason for hiring a professional gunsmith. You amaze me with the methods and the effort in fixing or rather conserving a firearm. Well done sir.
Have a 43K that needs saved and have my setup ready for when I have time. Bob took the time to talk me through what I needed. Thank you Bob and thanks to this channel! 🍻
Imagine a time when we see a lot less bubba’d stuff because Mark took the time to share this wonderful information. I sub a lot of youtubers but Mark is pretty much the only one I actually take the time to watch. Thanks for all you do!
Thankyou again (thank you both, and the whole team of yall) for preserving these antiques. Nit only through your actions but the knowledge. Ive even preserved a think or two that wouldve otherwise kept degrading
I rust blued a Star BM that had water leak into its original box sometime during storage or shipping to the states and had rusted horribly. It came out amazing. I actually thought I wasn't getting very far until I hit it with Rig grease and it blackened up several shades immediately and held that color. It's a good bit of work especially if you don't have a lot of room or are doing a rifle, but worth it. On the carding wheel for a cheap use, just chuck it in a drill and clamp your drill to the table with the trigger held down. Boom, you have the same setup Mark does and all you have to buy is the wheel from Brownells. Their carding toothbrushes are good too, just takes way longer. I prefer the brush over steel wool, on mine I started with wool and dumped it for the brush. I just felt like it got into every crack way better and didn't shed like steel wool does.
Im actually a knifemaker who makes and uses layered steels and modern damascus. This video helped me a lot in understanding the etching and filling process a bit more, and how it works and why certain things werent working. Thanks for going thru this, and explaining. Its helped me further develop my process and understand why things happen and how to make the most out of them. Id def be interested in any other steel treatment processes. Not sure what else crosses over.
I finished a P14 .303 rifle using rust blueing, i even matched the original blueing parts that didn't need doing. My formula was Sal ammoniac which was used on Lee Enfield rifles at the turn of the century. The best part of the process was watching the grey silvery finish after 6 boilings turn blue black with oil just like magic.
Excellent! Found an old Colt revolver that was a great (and cheap) candidate for a boil out conversion. Had a gunsmith do it and now he offers the service and the piece looks stunning!
Per your recommendation when you mentioned it long ago, I bought 2 copies of the book, and gave my son one. I have set up to do conservation and have had some nice results. Thank you.
I am always delighted by the before/after when rust bluing. I kinda went crazy with it, and damn near everything that will fit in my steam box gets blued. All of my lathe and mill accessories. Including, quick change tool post, rotary index, all of my 3 and 4 jaw chucks, collet chucks, fly cutters, boring heads...if it will rust, and I plan on owning it more than a week, it gets rust blued. A deep bluing and a coat of light machine oil, is unbeatable as a machine tool finish.
It's hard to express how much joy I get from watching your videos! Interesting, educating, informing, and entertainment. Thank you so much for sharing your skill , knowledge and time!
I'm a metal machine builder old school. Hand sweat was a bad issue. As an aprendice i had problems with rusting my fabrikated parts. On gun smithing sweat could ruin the metal surface i guess. Excellent chanel, i love it. I'm just a steel enthusiast.
I can attest to the quality of Bob's Rust Blue. I have used the American Blue, Frontier Brown, and Damascus. All with great results. I restored a lever action Savage Model 1899 take-down in Savage 303 to near original blue. The Mark and Bob Anvil episode on the whole process made all the difference.
In my field of brass/woodwind instrument repair, I always told people, beside the actual knowing about the horns and how they work. One also has to be part machinist, part tool and die maker, electrical engineer and part chemist. I would suggest gunsmithing is very similar.
Great video as always! Ever since I've seen your rust bluing videos in the past, it could be just the Google algorithm but it seems rust bluing has gained popularity (or re-gained for that matter) once again. Keep up the great work- we love seeing these historical methods you can't find in many other places!
I used this process with a little .32cal pistol that my dad gave me, it is a Steyr-Piper 1908, it had a lot of surface rust and a was pitted pretty badly. So I used your previous video. I practiced with some steel washers until I got it down perfect, before performing this on the pistol. Anyways, the pistol came out beautiful. Almost too new to my liking to be honest, but it’s not rusting anymore! The only problem I have now is that I don’t know how to put it back together because the pictures I took while taking it apart are gone with my old phone... So that sucks.
Sorry I don’t know anything about those pistols but is the 1909 anything like it and enough to use as starting point to put together? m.ruclips.net/video/eycaGbje-ZQ/видео.html
I have used his American bluing solution with great success on 3 of my older weapons. Take your time and follow the steps (no shortcuts) and you will be amazed at the beauty this bluing method will produce! Great video!!!!
You are awesome thank goodness I came across your channel this exactly the kind of educational bluing content I’ve been looking for been hooked on restoring firearms ever since my first rifle restoration
Absolutely ironical. I recently fitted a new gunwhale rubber to my boat and it has to be heated to 60degrees c to soften it. I came up with exactly the same idea with the cardboard box. Bloody identical!!!!!!!
Another great explanation an informative video. Thank you! BTW I used to carry a blued .38 snubby in in an in the pants holster. I sweat a lot and rust was a problem. I found that warming the metal and applying lanolin that was dissolved in ether left a very slick coating that was damn near impossible to rub off. Does not smell that great at first but the smell goes away. Cheers.
Mark, great to see you start with Angier's book!! I have used the Birmingham Brown Recipe (p 90) since the 80's, including the logwood chip process. My results have always been great, particularly with skelp pattern damascus. Getting that pattern to "pop" is a great feeling.
Great video! I used your conservation method on an unfired Navy Arms percussion revolver that I neglected and had a thumb print on the barrel. To say the least, I was amazed when I saw it work for me, on my gun, in my shop. Thank you so much!
I have a project I'm gonna be bluing just to experiment. It's not a firearm, but it is mild steel so it should work. I've seen the older episodes, but the timing on this is perfect.
Once again, thank you for the education and sharing your knowledge Mark. It is truly appreciated. I have an old French Rifle that’s chambered in 8mm Lebel that an FFL I knew through in with another sale for a measly $80. It’s got a beautiful patina on it and I’d love to do something like what you’ve shown here. Just a wall hanger and a wall hanger is all it’s ever going to be.
Hey mark just recently last Friday had a seizure in school 18 leaving high school soon it’s like a gift from god to have an 40 min video to lay in bed and watch.
I spy with my own eyes, a spittoon and what appears to my non-expert eyes, a flintlock pistol! This was an epic episode. Totally awesome. Thanks gents!
Mark, if you need a fine rust in a hurry, just strip a piece of metal with denatured alcohol set it on your bench and just watch the magic. Depending on the humidity you can see rust as quickly as 20 seconds. Backstory, we had a random inspection of a toolkit by Quality Assurance (QA) in the USAF. The toolkit was comprised mainly of Snap-On tools; so expensive chrome as far as the eye could see. When the inspector popped open the toolkit, it looked like it had been submersed in salt water for a decade, yet the paperwork inside said it had been inspected just a couple weeks prior and by one of our best troops. Our investigation discovered, nightshift had run out of 'CLP', it was on order, scheduled for delivery that following morning. So the Airman took it upon himself to substitute denatured alcohol and finish wiping down the tool kit as per inspection requirements. This still didn't explain the ridiculous level of rust so we conducted a little 'science'. We pulled brand new tools from bench stock, wiped them down and began setting up timers. Before we figured out how to turn on the timers we already had a super fine surface rust on the chrome which (till that moment) I thought was impossible. Another 15 minutes, the tools were no longer serviceable by military standards and we had our answer. Full disclosure, the Denatured alcohol from Lowes seems different from what the USAF HAZMAT guys provided. It seems thicker, less refined but, I can only presume it will provide similar results.
All solvents available to the public have changed dramatically in the past 20 years & eventually won't be available at all , thank you democrats , for example acetone will be banned in NY next year, according to the paint supply in my area
After trying just about everything else, i ended up using mold release wax to keep my carry 1911 slide from rusting. I live in florida. I only re apply about every 2 months in the summer!
Thanks for the great video. I have that book and I spend a time on the internet looking up the modern terms for the chemicals. There's an incredible amount of bluing recipes in the book.
I've used Bob's rust bluing chemicals and they do a superb job. I especially like the German and Swiss formulations. Rubbing the oiled patina with coarse burlap really brings out the fineness of the metal. I haven't seen that brake cleaner in the State of California; it would be nice to try some of that sometime. When I was a kid here in California I used to be able to purchase gallons of Toulene and Xylene and Naphthalene. Now can get none of these three.
@@ericschulze5641 I notice in three paint stores here in the Roseville, California area, (Rockler and 2 Warehouse Paints stores one in Citrus Heights and the other in Auburn) carry lacquer thinner. Gallon cans are able to be purchased but it has to be sold to the customer when purchasing Mohawk Nitrocelluose based Lacquers.
Just wanted to add that you can make a sweat box also by hanging the parts in your shower with a steam humidifier! I've done that a couple times and it works well! Also, if you don't shower with your rust blue gun parts while they are in there, are you even a *real* gunsmith? Lol.
*I spent the better part of my adult life working as a Machinist for one of the largest Railroads in the US. (I'm 61) I had a good friend that didn't wear gloves when he was at the parts cleaning tank. He died at 43 from liver cancer. Left a wife, kids and even a few grandchildren behind...Was it the toluene? Nobody can really say, but toluene has been linked to many forms of cancer (including liver & brain cancer) in mammals for a couple of decades now. There's also signage right on the lid of the parts cleaning tank...WEAR GLOVES AT ALL TIMES. Big companies don't put that type of product warnings out for shits & giggles. They do it so that when you get sick and die from not following the rules, they can point the finger of blame at you, and be saved from product liability suits...You may be a smart Mark, but you need to wise up.....Take it for what it's worth* 🔥
The secret to live a long life is not to die. Remembers me of the guys who take of the shield from their angle grinders or that lift with their back, its such an minor nuisance that avoids so much pain but people insist on
I am so happy and lucky to have the content here as I try to conserve a barrel from a shotgun my neighbor found. Hey, who knows ot may be worth a penny or a few but the ability to follow along 😉 priceless (Edited spelling)
Not surprised that a non-specialist engineer wrote the book on bluing, since it is not as if only guns needs protecting against the wrong chemical reactivity. Can't always just paint or oil your steel to keep it safe.
OK now, I'm going to put away my Rust-Oleum spray can, one each, condition code "A", Black, and go for conservation and actual rust bluing. My 870 WingMaster is camo rust-oleum paint with a slight coating of Mallard and Squirrel blood. I painted it in the mid 80s. I bought it new, and it was so well shined that it scared off the Ducks.
Thank you I've got a low number 1903 Springfield that's in original finish but has a lot of wear. I've kept it dry and oiled and would like it to be kept that way. I think I'm going to do the last one after the wax. We're you oiled with lin seed thanks I'm sure il be revisiting this video a few times.
Please tell us how you card the inside of the actions , i imagine you you use steel wooll and a pick or some sort of stick but i would like to know more , thanks as allways !! cheers!!
Mark- on boiling case hardening... I have a 67/89 rolling block. Gorgous case on the top and sides.... but rust speckles on the bottom/ trigger guard. Rest of gun is MINT. Ok to boil and card? I don't want to hurt the rest chasing the minor rust.
Do the Whaintenance??? Get them all out and enjoy them occasionally. Give them a good look over even under the wood. Then thank God for John Moses Browning and Mark Novak.
I used to practice on old steel lawn mower blades. I refuse to experiment on good guns. I have my technique down pat before I get busy on a nice old rifle.
I'm just a little confused because you kept changing nomenclature such as steaming, boiling and hot potting and had multiple parts in various stages of conversion. Did I understand correctly that the bayonet had not blueing chemicals and was merely cleaned and steamed before carding? The reason I ask is I have a Winchester rifle that was stored in a cloth case in a closet. A water heater on the opposite side of the wall developed a lead and caused a humid environment to develop inside the case. Imagine my confusion when I opened up that case one day and discovered surface rust in some locations on this once mint 30:06. Imagine my confusion as well because my guns are always oiled before putting them away. I haven't touched the rifle or tried to card off the surface rust. The finish may be fine underneath but I don't know. What I gather from your video is I should leave the rust alone, clean it thoroughly, after disassembly of course, heat it up and then steam it and it will possibly convert that rust back to it's oxide layer and then I can card it with some 00: steal wool. I really would like to preserve this rifle and give it the best chance at bringing out it's factory condition without unnecessarily stripping it down to white metal. The rust isn't all that bad but just because it's there it's bad enough. Thanks for clarification
As usual, I am mystified why Mark's channel isn't running up at the 3+ million subscribers range or higher. Pure, unadulterated, useful information.
He's such a wealth of knowledge. Something about watching someone work on a craft they've mastered is just excellent. Just to kick back and learn a thing or two with the confidence that whatever he says has been time tested. Almost makes me feel like I can do those things, or at least have the confidence to try, ya know?
Nobody wants to learn, they just want to know.... In 15 seconds or less
@@CrashRacknShoot You Can do these things. That's Mark's intent. He is sharing his knowledge (Knowledge=Experience) via being a teacher. I say this because he has said that. Use his (and others) experience to save yourself time, money and experimentation. This is hard earned information that you can use and trust to get yourself get good results. There might be 20 ways to do a particular task. Some will obviously be wrong but of the ones that are right, experience is what let's you get good results with the least chance of screwing it up!
Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
He’s too smart for most viewers. You actually, I don’t know, need an attention span and an interest in his videos.
Spread the word guys, spread the word......................!
Just so you know this channel has been the inspiration of my basement gun smithing. And now an 07 ffl….
OUTSTANDING.........just sayin
Mark you are hugely raising the potential of many a back yard gunsmith your excellent vidios and I, for one, truly appreciated all your sharing.
Mark, I cannot thank you enough for allowing us to come into your shop and see how and why metal transformations take place! You are a master, no doubt. With my cigar in hand I totally immerse myself into your subjects. Common sense and deliberate approaches to smithing is fascinating and I hope someone out there is learning your methods. BRAVO ZULÚ!
Thanks.
If an Anvil video shows up I settle in to watch. If the topic is blueing, i watch immediately.
I always love it when Mark finishes up a project. He always has that look of accomplishment.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, Mark. You know we appreciate everything you and Bruno do for the community. 🤙🏾
Man your channel is fantastic. It’s like having a cool uncle that fixes guns and explains everything. Thanks
ALWAYS OUTSTANDING content Mark! Thank you again for having Bob on the show to get a little more info. Looking forward to more.
Watching agin for the 20th time. Thanks agin guys! I wish we all could spend every day in the shop with you sucking up knowledge the time you share is priceless and I can’t stress enough how lucky we are you are sharing the secrets other stubborn wizards have let die off due to fear of educating themselves out of a job.
Mark I want to thank you for producing all of these videos. I have been working on an old Spanish Mauser 7x57 model 93. It was partially sporterized. I am working on putting it into its original configuration. I went and rust blued this rifle using, non-iodized salt, hydrogen peroxide, and distilled vinegar. I used my oven set at 215° to give it dry heat, then I added some boiling water to a stainless pan and put it in the oven for humidity. After a while I pulled the pan of water and brought it back to boiling. Then I dropped the parts into the boiling water for 45 minutes. I then scrubbed everything down with 0000 steel wool. Now it is all coated in sae 30. It looks really good!
Im not sure whether i should be more impressed by what you managed to do in an oven… Or that your wife let you🤔
Shout out to Bob! Ordered some solution, and couldn't be happier. Timely, professional, and informative! Highly recommend.
I’d like to thank both of you for the 3 videos on this. I ordered Bob’s American Rust Blue and I’m now bluing for the first time in the comfort of my garage. Fine work and many thanks gentlemen.
I did this after the original post ,contacted Bob to help select the right product to use and I glad to say my gun turned out beautiful !!!!
Thanks Mark And Bob
A 20 year submariner warning you about a certain alcohol being too potent is a grave warning indeed...
Nuclear grade radioactive waste, yesssirie
Torpedo juice! Yumm
Never go easy on Brake Clean... You want to use enough to move the oil completely off of the part you're cleaning. if you give something a light spray you can end up with a line of oil a little further down where the break clean evaporated. (Not directed at Mark, just a hard learned lesson.)
True, very true. Function of the videos is to get this very conversation started......
As a firefighter I have always been told to watch out for linseed oil. That it will spontaneously combust. Why? Mark you just taught me something. I never knew, nor had found that linseed oil can polymerize. All of the sudden the Hazmat Tech part of my brain lights up. We watch out for monomers and temperature controlled polymers due to their explosion hazard in containers. Linseed oil on a cotton cloth begins to polymerize and generate heat. Thence comes pyrolysis and combustion. Thank you again for teaching me something.
And I just learnt something from your comment. Thanks mate… just googled linseed oil combustion after your comment and I had no idea. (And I occasionally use it!) 👍🏻👍🏻
Your videos are always must watch for me. I was able to move on from using 4-0 steel wool to carding brushes and finally to an actual carding wheel that I mounted on a $50 dollar well used craftsman drill press I found at an estate sale. I had to rewire the power cord and use it as a press to bore out the carding wheel so I could fab up an arbor for it. Currently working on a No. 5 Enfield that had a bright white flash hider. I have the hider looking plausible which is what I wanted.
Now THATs why we do the videos......outstanding!
Agree my friend! Hen you watch a master who also can explain so well for the shade tree repairman is a great combo. Why Brownells has not gotten with you to do a series and offer some courses in person is a crime!
This video explains to me the reason for hiring a professional gunsmith. You amaze me with the methods and the effort in fixing or rather conserving a firearm. Well done sir.
Have a 43K that needs saved and have my setup ready for when I have time.
Bob took the time to talk me through what I needed. Thank you Bob and thanks to this channel! 🍻
I used bobs chemicals for a sxs receiver works great. My steam box was my shower and that worked great. I did boil it in a pot on my stove first
Imagine a time when we see a lot less bubba’d stuff because Mark took the time to share this wonderful information. I sub a lot of youtubers but Mark is pretty much the only one I actually take the time to watch. Thanks for all you do!
Your points at the end would have been burned in our minds if only you had worn the jammies. Thanks for being you.
Great video.
I loved the “bullet points” in the summary at the end.
Thanks Mark & Bob. Bought a bottle, spent months learning how not to do it. Some things are so simple they are tricky. Oil is the enemy.
Thankyou again (thank you both, and the whole team of yall) for preserving these antiques. Nit only through your actions but the knowledge. Ive even preserved a think or two that wouldve otherwise kept degrading
I rust blued a Star BM that had water leak into its original box sometime during storage or shipping to the states and had rusted horribly. It came out amazing. I actually thought I wasn't getting very far until I hit it with Rig grease and it blackened up several shades immediately and held that color. It's a good bit of work especially if you don't have a lot of room or are doing a rifle, but worth it.
On the carding wheel for a cheap use, just chuck it in a drill and clamp your drill to the table with the trigger held down. Boom, you have the same setup Mark does and all you have to buy is the wheel from Brownells. Their carding toothbrushes are good too, just takes way longer. I prefer the brush over steel wool, on mine I started with wool and dumped it for the brush. I just felt like it got into every crack way better and didn't shed like steel wool does.
Im actually a knifemaker who makes and uses layered steels and modern damascus. This video helped me a lot in understanding the etching and filling process a bit more, and how it works and why certain things werent working.
Thanks for going thru this, and explaining. Its helped me further develop my process and understand why things happen and how to make the most out of them.
Id def be interested in any other steel treatment processes. Not sure what else crosses over.
Who isn't making knives these days?
I finished a P14 .303 rifle using rust blueing, i even matched the original blueing parts that didn't need doing. My formula was Sal ammoniac which was used on Lee Enfield rifles at the turn of the century. The best part of the process was watching the grey silvery finish after 6 boilings turn blue black with oil just like magic.
Excellent!
Found an old Colt revolver that was a great (and cheap) candidate for a boil out conversion. Had a gunsmith do it and now he offers the service and the piece looks stunning!
I need to get in touch with the smith in case he needs support. Every shop in the country should be doing this
Per your recommendation when you mentioned it long ago, I bought 2 copies of the book, and gave my son one. I have set up to do conservation and have had some nice results. Thank you.
Excellent video! A charcoal bluing video would probably be found quite interesting!
PLEASE!!!! I'd love to see a video on charcoal bluing!
I am always delighted by the before/after when rust bluing. I kinda went crazy with it, and damn near everything that will fit in my steam box gets blued. All of my lathe and mill accessories. Including, quick change tool post, rotary index, all of my 3 and 4 jaw chucks, collet chucks, fly cutters, boring heads...if it will rust, and I plan on owning it more than a week, it gets rust blued. A deep bluing and a coat of light machine oil, is unbeatable as a machine tool finish.
Badass....
It's hard to express how much joy I get from watching your videos! Interesting, educating, informing, and entertainment. Thank you so much for sharing your skill , knowledge and time!
Thanks. Thats why we do this
I'm a metal machine builder old school. Hand sweat was a bad issue. As an aprendice i had problems with rusting my fabrikated parts. On gun smithing sweat could ruin the metal surface i guess. Excellent chanel, i love it. I'm just a steel enthusiast.
I can attest to the quality of Bob's Rust Blue. I have used the American Blue, Frontier Brown, and Damascus. All with great results. I restored a lever action Savage Model 1899 take-down in Savage 303 to near original blue. The Mark and Bob Anvil episode on the whole process made all the difference.
In my field of brass/woodwind instrument repair, I always told people, beside the actual knowing about the horns and how they work.
One also has to be part machinist, part tool and die maker, electrical engineer and part chemist.
I would suggest gunsmithing is very similar.
I love how you've taken the woolly, magic thinking out of it. Great video.
Great video as always! Ever since I've seen your rust bluing videos in the past, it could be just the Google algorithm but it seems rust bluing has gained popularity (or re-gained for that matter) once again. Keep up the great work- we love seeing these historical methods you can't find in many other places!
I used this process with a little .32cal pistol that my dad gave me, it is a Steyr-Piper 1908, it had a lot of surface rust and a was pitted pretty badly. So I used your previous video. I practiced with some steel washers until I got it down perfect, before performing this on the pistol.
Anyways, the pistol came out beautiful. Almost too new to my liking to be honest, but it’s not rusting anymore! The only problem I have now is that I don’t know how to put it back together because the pictures I took while taking it apart are gone with my old phone... So that sucks.
Sorry I don’t know anything about those pistols but is the 1909 anything like it and enough to use as starting point to put together? m.ruclips.net/video/eycaGbje-ZQ/видео.html
I liked the bullet point summary at the end.
LOL
I have used his American bluing solution with great success on 3 of my older weapons. Take your time and follow the steps (no shortcuts) and you will be amazed at the beauty this bluing method will produce! Great video!!!!
You are awesome thank goodness I came across your channel this exactly the kind of educational bluing content I’ve been looking for been hooked on restoring firearms ever since my first rifle restoration
Best birthday gift I could ask for
What a badass. Also the music at the end of every video is just *chefs kiss*
Absolutely ironical. I recently fitted a new gunwhale rubber to my boat and it has to be heated to 60degrees c to soften it. I came up with exactly the same idea with the cardboard box. Bloody identical!!!!!!!
Another great explanation an informative video. Thank you! BTW I used to carry a blued .38 snubby in in an in the pants holster. I sweat a lot and rust was a problem. I found that warming the metal and applying lanolin that was dissolved in ether left a very slick coating that was damn near impossible to rub off. Does not smell that great at first but the smell goes away. Cheers.
Truthfully the lighting in your shop did not show the blowing very well but when you took that revolver outside... WOW nicely done!
I have been cold bluing for a long time, You have completely changed my way of looking at things. Thank you !
Mark, great to see you start with Angier's book!! I have used the Birmingham Brown Recipe (p 90) since the 80's, including the logwood chip process. My results have always been great, particularly with skelp pattern damascus. Getting that pattern to "pop" is a great feeling.
Great video! I used your conservation method on an unfired Navy Arms percussion revolver that I neglected and had a thumb print on the barrel. To say the least, I was amazed when I saw it work for me, on my gun, in my shop. Thank you so much!
Nice old revolver even if it is a Spanish knock-off. Bruno will enjoy that. Thanks to you & Bob for the lesson.
I have a project I'm gonna be bluing just to experiment. It's not a firearm, but it is mild steel so it should work. I've seen the older episodes, but the timing on this is perfect.
Once again, thank you for the education and sharing your knowledge Mark. It is truly appreciated.
I have an old French Rifle that’s chambered in 8mm Lebel that an FFL I knew through in with another sale for a measly $80. It’s got a beautiful patina on it and I’d love to do something like what you’ve shown here. Just a wall hanger and a wall hanger is all it’s ever going to be.
Hey mark just recently last Friday had a seizure in school 18 leaving high school soon it’s like a gift from god to have an 40 min video to lay in bed and watch.
I spy with my own eyes, a spittoon and what appears to my non-expert eyes, a flintlock pistol! This was an epic episode. Totally awesome. Thanks gents!
This is truly a great video. I wish I was a few years younger. My eyes and fingers just have to much trouble with the reassembly of the small parts.
This guy is unbelievably talented.
Danish oil is such great stuff. I didn’t know you could use it on metal. Learned something new.
Did you ever think you would have so many students Mark?
Thanks for continuing to educate us!
For better for worse Marc your series of videos has become THE point for me checking YT.
As a fellow GS thank you SO much.
Mark, if you need a fine rust in a hurry, just strip a piece of metal with denatured alcohol set it on your bench and just watch the magic. Depending on the humidity you can see rust as quickly as 20 seconds.
Backstory, we had a random inspection of a toolkit by Quality Assurance (QA) in the USAF. The toolkit was comprised mainly of Snap-On tools; so expensive chrome as far as the eye could see. When the inspector popped open the toolkit, it looked like it had been submersed in salt water for a decade, yet the paperwork inside said it had been inspected just a couple weeks prior and by one of our best troops. Our investigation discovered, nightshift had run out of 'CLP', it was on order, scheduled for delivery that following morning. So the Airman took it upon himself to substitute denatured alcohol and finish wiping down the tool kit as per inspection requirements. This still didn't explain the ridiculous level of rust so we conducted a little 'science'. We pulled brand new tools from bench stock, wiped them down and began setting up timers. Before we figured out how to turn on the timers we already had a super fine surface rust on the chrome which (till that moment) I thought was impossible. Another 15 minutes, the tools were no longer serviceable by military standards and we had our answer. Full disclosure, the Denatured alcohol from Lowes seems different from what the USAF HAZMAT guys provided. It seems thicker, less refined but, I can only presume it will provide similar results.
All solvents available to the public have changed dramatically in the past 20 years & eventually won't be available at all , thank you democrats , for example acetone will be banned in NY next year, according to the paint supply in my area
After trying just about everything else, i ended up using mold release wax to keep my carry 1911 slide from rusting. I live in florida. I only re apply about every 2 months in the summer!
Mark's videos are starting to pop up in my gunsmithing courses refinishing classes. Love your stuff Mark
It is truly a pleasure to get to learn from you. Great content, as usual. Thank you Sir, for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for the great video. I have that book and I spend a time on the internet looking up the modern terms for the chemicals. There's an incredible amount of bluing recipes in the book.
Refinishing.... OUTSTANDING!
Just so you know, when you said, "Wire wheel," and stuck your finger in the *carding wheel* I shouted "CARDING WHEEL!" Have a great weekend Mark.
I've used Bob's rust bluing chemicals and they do a superb job. I especially like the German and Swiss formulations. Rubbing the oiled patina with coarse burlap really brings out the fineness of the metal. I haven't seen that brake cleaner in the State of California; it would be nice to try some of that sometime. When I was a kid here in California I used to be able to purchase gallons of Toulene and Xylene and Naphthalene. Now can get none of these three.
Use acetone.
@@ericschulze5641 I notice in three paint stores here in the Roseville, California area, (Rockler and 2 Warehouse Paints stores one in Citrus Heights and the other in Auburn) carry lacquer thinner. Gallon cans are able to be purchased but it has to be sold to the customer when purchasing Mohawk Nitrocelluose based Lacquers.
1 year later and my state has announced they will follow California and ban most solvents,
@@ericschulze5641 then drive a state over and buy them.
Awesome chemical explanation as to what happens to steel when it rusts and is converted 👍👍👍
Thank you for this gigantic input. You are truly teaching though YT.
Just wanted to add that you can make a sweat box also by hanging the parts in your shower with a steam humidifier! I've done that a couple times and it works well! Also, if you don't shower with your rust blue gun parts while they are in there, are you even a *real* gunsmith? Lol.
I like all that quite a bit, sir.
🤣
Marks videos and Bob’s supplies have allowed this carbon based lifeform to produce some well maintained and blued pieces.
*I spent the better part of my adult life working as a Machinist for one of the largest Railroads in the US. (I'm 61) I had a good friend that didn't wear gloves when he was at the parts cleaning tank. He died at 43 from liver cancer. Left a wife, kids and even a few grandchildren behind...Was it the toluene? Nobody can really say, but toluene has been linked to many forms of cancer (including liver & brain cancer) in mammals for a couple of decades now. There's also signage right on the lid of the parts cleaning tank...WEAR GLOVES AT ALL TIMES. Big companies don't put that type of product warnings out for shits & giggles. They do it so that when you get sick and die from not following the rules, they can point the finger of blame at you, and be saved from product liability suits...You may be a smart Mark, but you need to wise up.....Take it for what it's worth* 🔥
The secret to live a long life is not to die. Remembers me of the guys who take of the shield from their angle grinders or that lift with their back, its such an minor nuisance that avoids so much pain but people insist on
the pleasure is all ours...to watch...to learn...and to be entertained...thank you...
Im getting my bluing kit together now so its always awesome to learn how a grandmaster gunsmith does it. Im doing hot water bluing.
I am so happy and lucky to have the content here as I try to conserve a barrel from a shotgun my neighbor found.
Hey, who knows ot may be worth a penny or a few but the ability to follow along 😉 priceless
(Edited spelling)
Not surprised that a non-specialist engineer wrote the book on bluing, since it is not as if only guns needs protecting against the wrong chemical reactivity. Can't always just paint or oil your steel to keep it safe.
OK now, I'm going to put away my Rust-Oleum spray can, one each, condition code "A", Black, and go for conservation and actual rust bluing. My 870 WingMaster is camo rust-oleum paint with a slight coating of Mallard and Squirrel blood. I painted it in the mid 80s. I bought it new, and it was so well shined that it scared off the Ducks.
Cool information. I've wanted to do a Hawken Style 54 caliber percussion cap rifle kit for years .
Happenstance led me to this channel. Now subscribed.
Takes a lot of trepidation out of diving head long into a couple of WWI era military weapons.
Thank you I've got a low number 1903 Springfield that's in original finish but has a lot of wear. I've kept it dry and oiled and would like it to be kept that way. I think I'm going to do the last one after the wax. We're you oiled with lin seed thanks I'm sure il be revisiting this video a few times.
HOW IN THE HELL DOES MARK NOVAK ONLY 100K SUBSCRIBERS?!?!
love the bullet points, on the summary
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos sharing the knowledge. It really means alot to us. . . . well at least to me.
Seconded.
@@kevlarandchrome thirded
Just when I thought it couldn't get any better; you did this video. Why didn't I learn this in high school chemistry? More...more.
I watched this whole video just to learn how to boil an axe head so it will blue. Thanks!
i striped a tomahawk to bare metal then boiledit in white vineger turnd out a dark gray i like it.
as long as iron is in its happy place 🤣 great explanation by someone who has obviously experience in teaching...
A bottle of Everclear always explains itself. At least that has been my experience.
Please tell us how you card the inside of the actions , i imagine you you use steel wooll and a pick or some sort of stick but i would like to know more , thanks as allways !! cheers!!
Fine stainless bristle brush or denim works as well
Regular tooth or a bore brush both work and are cheap
@@marknovak8255 Thanks!
Hey Mark. Another great video… thanks! Just wondering what the details were on that wheel? I think you mentioned sharing the part number at one point?
Mark thank you for sharing your time on this.
Looks a lot like the Belgian blueing process I use. What is the part number for the carding wheel? I presume it's one from Brownells.
Mark- on boiling case hardening... I have a 67/89 rolling block. Gorgous case on the top and sides.... but rust speckles on the bottom/ trigger guard. Rest of gun is MINT.
Ok to boil and card? I don't want to hurt the rest chasing the minor rust.
Do the Whaintenance??? Get them all out and enjoy them occasionally. Give them a good look over even under the wood. Then thank God for John Moses Browning and Mark Novak.
gotta love that summary...bullet points
I was wondering if any other Power Point warriors picked up on that
You have a fantastic way of teaching.
I used to practice on old steel lawn mower blades. I refuse to experiment on good guns. I have my technique down pat before I get busy on a nice old rifle.
I'm just a little confused because you kept changing nomenclature such as steaming, boiling and hot potting and had multiple parts in various stages of conversion. Did I understand correctly that the bayonet had not blueing chemicals and was merely cleaned and steamed before carding? The reason I ask is I have a Winchester rifle that was stored in a cloth case in a closet. A water heater on the opposite side of the wall developed a lead and caused a humid environment to develop inside the case. Imagine my confusion when I opened up that case one day and discovered surface rust in some locations on this once mint 30:06. Imagine my confusion as well because my guns are always oiled before putting them away. I haven't touched the rifle or tried to card off the surface rust. The finish may be fine underneath but I don't know. What I gather from your video is I should leave the rust alone, clean it thoroughly, after disassembly of course, heat it up and then steam it and it will possibly convert that rust back to it's oxide layer and then I can card it with some 00: steal wool. I really would like to preserve this rifle and give it the best chance at bringing out it's factory condition without unnecessarily stripping it down to white metal. The rust isn't all that bad but just because it's there it's bad enough. Thanks for clarification
Mark, Amazon has that book both in digital and in hard copy formats, the digital cost me $13 and something cents. The hard copy costs like $24
Going, going, gone! He hits another out of the park folks!