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I did this, i dont even recover 10% of the lead, more like 5%

Tried making mine but im making a mistake while doing the length of the groove

I’ve always loved that revolver. Thanks for sharing!

That’s a beautiful thing! That firearm went to the perfect home! Well done!

Hello! I've been looking for an 1881 manufacture Colt SAA in .44-40 to go with my winchester 1881 made lever action. Would you be interested in selling this one if the price is right? Please get back to me if you see this comment. Thank you.

Huge thank you I’m 17 and just got a 1879 and was trying to do a stock repair but could not for the life of me figure out how to take it apart without fear of messing something up

great video .... short and to the point ... takes the mystery out of my Marlin 1894 ... its an oldie ... made in 1900 .. wasn't too sure about removing the lever .. breech and ejector and even the carrier now .. but can push on confidently now. Cheers from DownUnder.

I have a colt 1851 navy with the same issue. Would you be able to fix it for me?

I may be 6 years late but happy birthday sir and very nice gun you have there

Why do two of the links send me to places that have pop-ups saying a virus is on my phone?

me too

Would this method work on a Colt police positive special?

I triedCCI #11 magnum percussion caps seated with the hammer. Loaded with 30g of cylindrical pyrodex and Missouri Bullets 45 cal 200g semi wadd cutters. The bullets have a grease groove and are boat tailed, making them easier to chamber.

What a nice looking firearm! They don't make the old model in 38 WCF any longer, I really like the black powder frame and not having the logo on the grips looks better as well.

not show how disassembly the spring magasine tube

Very nice

Cool video and nice restore. What length is the barrel on yours? I've recently come across a Fulton in pretty good shape, great looking wood, it was made in 1921, guy is asking $600 is that a good price?

It’s a crying shame pietta doesn’t offer the 1851, 1860 or 1861 with a birds head/thunderer grip on more models. I really want a 1851 7.5” with the birds head grip, just like the look of it. (Especially after seeing a picture of you doing so with the longer barrel.)

Thank you for properly identifying it as the John Wayne load. 😇

That would be a dream come true.

Good work! I'll have to grab a copy of that book. Looks wonderful.

Like the grips, what kind are they Sir.

What’s the chamber length on this baby?

I believe first model side ejector

WE have the grade 3 sawed off like the one you show here. Wondering how much it is worth?

cool!

Does anybody know where I can get some grips for my 45cal, top load nichol plated revolver Schfield top load by Uberti.

Great video, just picked up one from 1986 with the same issue. I like your fix

I've made this type repair I go a step more and drill and tap the end of the arbor to put a set screw in. Then I can adjust the short arbor to the correct length. What losens the arbor most time is a short arbor. When the wedge is driven in too far it pushes the arbor up that losens it over time and you get the same problem again.

Great job, I made a set of resin grips for my uberti saa Thunderer birdshead grip revolver and they turned out great the second time around. The first time I made a few small mistakes but I was able to correct it the second time around.

I got the same one lol Works great .

Very nice

Fun video with ALL that black smoke. Good accuracy, from what we observed. Many of us would surely be interested to see as well you shoot JSP Winchester factory rounds -- NOT CAS -- in your 3rd generation model to note the comparison in handling AND accuracy and point of impact. "Thanks for the show!"

Bull,shit,man

Cool,ruger

Well done 👌🏽

Got this exact short hand issue with an uberti 1860 I like the idea of peening the hand I thought about that but was not sure it would work or that the hand would shatter. Great video!

Great video!

Are you shooting black powder?

I JUST RECENTLY FOUND YOUR CHANNEL. I hope you are still with the rest of us "slowing moving bunch".

Very informative video. Thank you sir .

LOVE IDEA OF 38 40 CASE YOU HAD

That is actually a Remington model 1878 Heavy Duck and not a model 1873

Great video truly informative. Thank you very much. I wish more videos could be just like this one. once again, thank you. Have a wonderful day Kind sir.

I concur, sir. Semper Fi

Thank you. Great infod

What a beauty. Going to scope one out on gunbroker. I want to make paper cartridges for my Remington (1858) Case hardened 5.5" barrel, etc.. As I have a loading lever to load the paper cartridges into the cylinder, etc..19 grains of powder is on the low end for the .44 Cream of Wheat, Grits, or Corn Meal? Which is best for filler? I know you suggested the Cream of Wheat. Peace

A geat fix for that 1860

In my opinion, the major decrease in velocity from the 7.5" Bbl to the 3" Bbl is because you were using 2Fg powder. Even with the long barrel the velocity was much lower than it'd have been if you used 3Fg powder. Also, someone on a cap and ball forum, a real knowledgable, experienced member, told me that the best way to get the most power from a short barrel like the 3" snubnose 1851s or 1860s is by using heavy conical bullets, a higher performace powder, like Old Eyensford (if sticking with true Black Powder) or Triple 7 if using a Black Powder Substitue. Triple 7 is 15% more potent given the same powder charge, doesn't have any of the HAZMAT red tape if bought online like real BP does, is really easy to clean when done shooting, and, though many might percieve this final aspect as a negative lol, but I view it as a positive: There is no sulfur-y, rotten egg smell from the smoke. My Pietta Colt 1860 Army "Snubnose" .45 was first loaded with 220 grain conical bullets, over 22.5 grains of Triple 7 3Fg. But I noticed there was still a bit of room in each chamber above the 220 grain conicals (which I had flattened into a full wadcutter shape for better performance in a potential defensive shooting)... so I took 6 more of the 220 grain conicals, or perhaps the 200 grain conicals, and cut them in half, and discarded the rounded top pieces of them. I then Put these, discs of lead basically, on top of the flat full wadcutter shaped bullets inside all 6 chambers, which now made it so there was literally 0 space remaining in the chambers; the projectiles now were completely flush with the front face of the cylinder. After filing some of them down a bit, as there were some issues when cocking the hammer, and the bullets protruding ever so slightly from the chambers to cause the cylinder to bind when rotating. Once that was easily fixed, it now basically has, anywhere from like 260ish grains, to 300 something grains of lead projectiles shaped like a full wadcutter bullet, above 22.5 grains of Triple 7 3Fg. In hindsight, I definitely could've fit more powder. and next time want to try just like 27.5 to 30 grains of 777 3Fg under either the Lee 200 Grain conicals or the 220 Grain conicals I have (well, HAD... looong depressing story... but one day I'll rebuy this stuff lol). The thing with conicals and short barrels is preferable for multiple reasons, if I understood correctly... 1.) A short barrel can't fully burn a big powder charge, unless its like 4Fg (tho only reccomended or the small .31 [.32] caliber pocket models like the Uberti Colt 1849 Pocket, or the sleeker, and lighter, Pietta 1863 Pocket.... or apparently a Ruger Old Army, due to it being built like a freakin TANK! lol... and lastly, the tiny pocket .22 single action revolvers from North American Arms. They sell cap and ball versions of them, a 'Companion' which is akin to the .22LR model, and the 'Super Companion', akin to the .22 Magnum model... tho tbf I personally just loaded smokeless powder taken from .22LR rounds and dumped out into the NAA's chambers. Can easily handle that and used to be in the manual before the ATF got all pissy and made them remove that section. SHIT! sorry for rambling lol. Lastly, the other benefit to conicals in short barrels is that the heavier weight of the bullet, ESPECIALLY if it has a really tight fit in the chamber (e,g, good sized ring of lead was shaved off when loadign it), the powder charge behind the bullet will have a longer amount of time to build up higher pressures, and velocities, for the effort to make a 200+ grain tight lead bullet start moving outta the chamber and into the barrel, means the pressure behind the bullet pushing it thru the barrel will be much higher than with a round ball only. Though the tighter the round ball, the better as well. I have carried guns for about 3 years until now. I rememeber the 2.5ish pound Pietta 1860 Colt snubby in my holster, or eventually more managable guns, like the Uberti 1862 Police, the Pietta Remington 1863 Pocket, and the barely visible with the naked eye, North American Arms "Super Companion" 5 shot ,22 Magnum power cap and ball revolver. (Agaain, loooong story, involving anti gun states, red tape, BS, etc lol).

Those must be all black powder loads