Great video, when you think of how many times a DIY guy like myself might get caught out cementing back the floor and not leaving the clearance to get the bottom drain assembly thru the floor. Using the 6” PVC coupler as form around the 2” PVC drain pipe is a smart idea.
It's always nice to learn a little more job turned out really nice like how the tiles look with the river rock keep up the great jobs cheers with a beer
Schluter just says to use dry pack for that area on a normal slab. Your wood should have been sufficient to hold dry pack sand mix and there should be no need for rebar. They say the dry pack doesn't shrink and is sufficient for that box out hole. I guess in your situation the rebar was a wise choice in case your wood adhesive fails and it gives way.
Does the Kerdi shower pan have built in slope and did you cut it to fit your area? I can't tell from the amazon link what that floor plan consists of besides the membrane.
How did you drill the holes for the rebar? The installed rebar looked very horizontal - therefore the concrete was not drilled at an angle. The space to install your rebar is narrow - what bits were used? At first I thought maybe you used a Tapcon bit but those are really thin and designed for screws. The SDS bits are wide but long and use larger hammer drills. Even the small SDS hammers seem too big to fit into that space in order to drill a horizontal hole. Second question is did you hire a plumber or was that some guy you partner with who did the pvc plumbing? I didn't quite follow the work the plumber did - I'll have to watch again. For myself, if it's not working the way I planned I'll hire a professional. That is especially true in electrical work.
I used regular masonry bits that were 1/2 wide. I only needed to drill in about 1", because all you have to do is slide the rebar into the hole, then back up the rebar into the second hole.
We did not show too much of what the plumber did, yes they were a contractor we hired to come in. They basically cut the PVC pipe that was broken, inside that 18" crawlspace between floors. Then they cemented in a new horitzontal pipe then a 90 degree pipe to the vertical drain pipe, and made it so it terminates around the middle of the square cutout boxout hole. Once they did that, I was able to fill in that big hole, then star the tiling.
Pretty good for DIY. Anybody looking to improve would epoxy the rebar in place and use a non shrink hydraulic cement with as low water content as possible and to get it worked in and smooth a plasticizer can be added. Also schluter is way overpriced and only comes in 1 meter wide rolls so any custom luxury shower would use other products better suited. This shower looked small enough to use 1m and not have to have the overlap bump. 🙂
Schluter like many products allow a seam between tools, the width of the roll is not a limiting factor in any way. Other techniques people will employ for example would be rolling Aqua Defense all over the surface first, then you have a waterproof rubbery shell when it dries.
@@jeffostroff that is what I said. Schluter overlaps and causes what is called by professional tile Setters as the Schluter bump. Other manufacturers have corrected this problem and moved past it but Schluter has not. Of course you can use it on little showers but that isn't where the Payola is so I am not interested. If doing little showers and accommodating for a bump that does not need to be there and otherwise ruins a flat or in plane surface is not a limitation for you then waste time as you see fit. I'm not commenting for your sake but for others that may want to know how showers are done. As far as putting on Aqua defense or Redguard or any type of liquid membrane over another membrane that is a big No-No! You should never double up a membrane to make it better because a waterproofing system either leaks or it does not leak and two layers can cause a sandwich which would trap water if the top one does leak.
@@danielbuckner2167 Sounds like you've never installed a Schluter shower, so some of your info is wrong, People who never installed it like to bash it and say it's not a good system.. Many tile setters also implement the seams wrong, putting in too much mortar. We don't double up the schluter Kerdi membrane ever. We butt up 2 sheets next to one another, and you are supposed to use Kerdi band, which is much thinner than Kerdi membrane to bridge across the 2 Kerdi Membrane sheets, it must overlap by 2 1/2". When you mix the mortar for Kerdi band it must be soupy to prevent it going on too thick and causing the bump. General shower water usage will never penetrate through 2 1/2" of mortar to get at the seam. I usually have really good results, with a minimal bump, and I use a 1/2" trowel of thin set anyway, so you'll never see a problem in my installation, the tiles will never see a bump. Maybe other's out there can't cut it who knows, but many people implement Schluter wrong so Schluter gets the blame. As for Aqua defense, sorry if I was unclear, I meant some guys either Use Schluter system or they use Aqua Defense, they don't put it over membrane, it's meant to go on cementitious backer board.
@@jeffostroff Haha, ok. I'm sure you just misspoke the first time. I have used schluter and I'm aware how to install it. Your description provides your confirmationfor me, thanks! If you dont see the difference then ok, no worries. Again, I am not here to straighten you out. This discourse is for anyone stumbling across this video. Thousands of showers are installed in the US every year by qualified tile setters having attended schluter schools held all over the country. Most of the work is acceptable, some is even fantastic. Even more showers are installed in new homes as just acrylic surrounds and those are accepted too. Not a high bar to pass is it? I would rather be more efficient and do a better job so I have my preferences and can be particular to assure the best results with greatest efficiency and even for less money. When schluter popped on the scene in the US almost two decades ago it was pretty neat stuff but competition has outpaced schluter and there are better products but some people are used to it and have drank the orange koolaid. There were guys who refused to stop doing preslopes and copper pans too. Technology changes and some people don't. ✌🏼
Parts used in this bathroom remodel project:
✅ Schluter Kerdi Shower Kit 38" x 60", Shower Pan, Curb, PVC Flange amzn.to/2EJ7bas
✅ Schluter Kerdi 108 Sq Ft Waterproofing Membrane: amzn.to/2sWh1TU
✅ Schluter Kerdi Drain Grate Kit, 4" Oil Rubbed Bronze amzn.to/2sKJAnf
✅ SIKA 187782 Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier amzn.to/34nZgdF
✅ Schluter KERDI FIX SEALANT 9.81OZ White amzn.to/2ZkZD7j
✅ Schluter KERDI-BAND - 5" X 33': amzn.to/35SuZVB
✅ Schluter KERDI TROWEL - 1/8 in x 1/8 in Square Notch: amzn.to/2ZiMtHZ
✅ Schluter Systems 2 Kerdi Inside Waterproofing Corner Pack 2: amzn.to/2QeRGwr
✅ Schluter KERDI Outside Corner - 2 Units: amzn.to/2PQwT3l
✅ Schluter ALL-SET WHITE 50 lbs bag THIN-SET MORTAR amzn.to/371VSX7
Great video, when you think of how many times a DIY guy like myself might get caught out cementing back the floor and not leaving the clearance to get the bottom drain assembly thru the floor. Using the 6” PVC coupler as form around the 2” PVC drain pipe is a smart idea.
Thank You, I needed advice on creating a cement box outline for sewer drain box, you perfectly explained.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Christian!
It's always nice to learn a little more job turned out really nice like how the tiles look with the river rock keep up the great jobs cheers with a beer
Thanks, always glad to share our experiences to help others!
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
Glad to help out YK!
Brilliant work!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Great job !!!
Thanks for watching our video, and I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for watching our video, and I'm glad you liked it!
Schluter just says to use dry pack for that area on a normal slab. Your wood should have been sufficient to hold dry pack sand mix and there should be no need for rebar. They say the dry pack doesn't shrink and is sufficient for that box out hole. I guess in your situation the rebar was a wise choice in case your wood adhesive fails and it gives way.
Does the Kerdi shower pan have built in slope and did you cut it to fit your area? I can't tell from the amazon link what that floor plan consists of besides the membrane.
Yes it is sloped and we cut it to fit.
What type of mix did you use for the concrete? Portland Cement?
I used the small 5 pound back of Quickcrete, just added water
What foam pan is in this video?
Schluter shower pan, amzn.to/3KLOgO6 there are many sizes and kits available on amazon
@@jeffostroff I'm a muppet, the all white threw me off because I'm so used to the Kerdi coloration.
How did you drill the holes for the rebar? The installed rebar looked very horizontal - therefore the concrete was not drilled at an angle. The space to install your rebar is narrow - what bits were used? At first I thought maybe you used a Tapcon bit but those are really thin and designed for screws. The SDS bits are wide but long and use larger hammer drills. Even the small SDS hammers seem too big to fit into that space in order to drill a horizontal hole. Second question is did you hire a plumber or was that some guy you partner with who did the pvc plumbing? I didn't quite follow the work the plumber did - I'll have to watch again. For myself, if it's not working the way I planned I'll hire a professional. That is especially true in electrical work.
I used regular masonry bits that were 1/2 wide. I only needed to drill in about 1", because all you have to do is slide the rebar into the hole, then back up the rebar into the second hole.
We did not show too much of what the plumber did, yes they were a contractor we hired to come in. They basically cut the PVC pipe that was broken, inside that 18" crawlspace between floors. Then they cemented in a new horitzontal pipe then a 90 degree pipe to the vertical drain pipe, and made it so it terminates around the middle of the square cutout boxout hole. Once they did that, I was able to fill in that big hole, then star the tiling.
@@jeffostroff -- pretty cool stuff!
Wouldn’t pass code in some areas since you can’t see purple primer on those pipes. Maybe when you filmed they were being dry fitted?
You mean in the crawl space? they were being cleaned at the time we filmed, you can see the can that says cleaner next tot he plumber's head.
Pretty good for DIY. Anybody looking to improve would epoxy the rebar in place and use a non shrink hydraulic cement with as low water content as possible and to get it worked in and smooth a plasticizer can be added. Also schluter is way overpriced and only comes in 1 meter wide rolls so any custom luxury shower would use other products better suited. This shower looked small enough to use 1m and not have to have the overlap bump. 🙂
Schluter like many products allow a seam between tools, the width of the roll is not a limiting factor in any way. Other techniques people will employ for example would be rolling Aqua Defense all over the surface first, then you have a waterproof rubbery shell when it dries.
@@jeffostroff that is what I said. Schluter overlaps and causes what is called by professional tile Setters as the Schluter bump. Other manufacturers have corrected this problem and moved past it but Schluter has not. Of course you can use it on little showers but that isn't where the Payola is so I am not interested. If doing little showers and accommodating for a bump that does not need to be there and otherwise ruins a flat or in plane surface is not a limitation for you then waste time as you see fit. I'm not commenting for your sake but for others that may want to know how showers are done. As far as putting on Aqua defense or Redguard or any type of liquid membrane over another membrane that is a big No-No! You should never double up a membrane to make it better because a waterproofing system either leaks or it does not leak and two layers can cause a sandwich which would trap water if the top one does leak.
@@danielbuckner2167 Sounds like you've never installed a Schluter shower, so some of your info is wrong, People who never installed it like to bash it and say it's not a good system.. Many tile setters also implement the seams wrong, putting in too much mortar. We don't double up the schluter Kerdi membrane ever. We butt up 2 sheets next to one another, and you are supposed to use Kerdi band, which is much thinner than Kerdi membrane to bridge across the 2 Kerdi Membrane sheets, it must overlap by 2 1/2". When you mix the mortar for Kerdi band it must be soupy to prevent it going on too thick and causing the bump. General shower water usage will never penetrate through 2 1/2" of mortar to get at the seam. I usually have really good results, with a minimal bump, and I use a 1/2" trowel of thin set anyway, so you'll never see a problem in my installation, the tiles will never see a bump. Maybe other's out there can't cut it who knows, but many people implement Schluter wrong so Schluter gets the blame. As for Aqua defense, sorry if I was unclear, I meant some guys either Use Schluter system or they use Aqua Defense, they don't put it over membrane, it's meant to go on cementitious backer board.
@@jeffostroff Haha, ok. I'm sure you just misspoke the first time. I have used schluter and I'm aware how to install it. Your description provides your confirmationfor me, thanks! If you dont see the difference then ok, no worries. Again, I am not here to straighten you out. This discourse is for anyone stumbling across this video. Thousands of showers are installed in the US every year by qualified tile setters having attended schluter schools held all over the country. Most of the work is acceptable, some is even fantastic. Even more showers are installed in new homes as just acrylic surrounds and those are accepted too. Not a high bar to pass is it? I would rather be more efficient and do a better job so I have my preferences and can be particular to assure the best results with greatest efficiency and even for less money. When schluter popped on the scene in the US almost two decades ago it was pretty neat stuff but competition has outpaced schluter and there are better products but some people are used to it and have drank the orange koolaid. There were guys who refused to stop doing preslopes and copper pans too. Technology changes and some people don't. ✌🏼