I just wanted to say that I watched this entire video, listened word for word and this was so exceptionally put together and amazing and SO helpful. I am in the US but this is soo amazing and definitely a must watch if your new to gouache or like me, I have been doing everything digital ever since design school, and have really missed doing more traditional painting which is why i love your comparison and opinions. Thank you!
Wow, thank you for your kind comments, glad this video helped you. I am the same I work with screens and digital professionally and just miss the hands on approach, hence I have this channel to share my experiences with people that are interested.
I mostly use Artist Gouache, Schmincke and M. Graham. But I do use some lightfast Holbein colors, and some winsor and newton lightfast colors as well. Artist Gouache is definitely different from designers Gouache. The Artist Gouache doesn't put tons of opaque fillers in them, to make them more opaque. They also don't use cheap binders like dextrin, so Artist Gouache is usually Transparent with many colors.... but they are highly lightfast for finished artwork. I absolutely love winsor and newton and how they handle, cover and feel... same with Holbein, but they are designers Gouache and you have to be very careful with those in finished artwork. They are made to design, scan and makes prints for ads, art prints and well, designing. They don't care about lightfastness as much, because they aren't made for longevity. Now winsor newton has come around alot with their Gouache, and started making more colors lightfast... but they don't test with ASTM or Blue wool, they do " in house ". I always test lightfastness on ALL of my supplies that I might have concerns with myself. I've found one too many labeled as lightfast colors that either shifted in colored, changed in color, and faded some. Also, in the usa... hands down Schmincke is absolutely priced SKY HIGH, 10 tubes will run you well over 200$ ... he'll, some colors are 30+$ a tube, and the M. Graham is so much cheaper than most of these. It all depends on where you live, what will be the cheapest. Anyway, just be careful with designers Gouache and finished work that you might sell....that goes for anyone. Just remember that designers Gouache wasn't designed/ made for longevity.... but designing, so if you have any doubts, test it in a window for 3-4 months. Have a good one
Wow yes thank you for all the information! I am currently running my own lightfast test, a month in at the moment. For Windsor and Newton and Holbein, so far Holbein (which say they are artist grade) is standing up but some of the Windsor and Newton is already changing. I will be doing another video November time showing the results. Thank you for watching.
Unfortunately that's not true, it comes from the **historical** uses of gouache (that you mentioned) and how it had an era of popularity among designers who wanted to work quickly and make prints of the flat, matte texture easier. Gouache just wasn't lighfast back then, and designers happened to not care, but gouache wasn't fugitive *because* they didn't care. It's not the case anymore, any company that makes gouache is making "Artists' gouache because that's who buys it and uses it, and any gouache that's even slightly reputable is very lightfast. There is no meaning behind the names thus no true difference, you may *notice* what you think is a trend but but the name is just marketing, and companies just make their gouache slightly different. W&N using opacifiers sometimes is NO testament to their quality, just their philosophy towards some, lightfast pigments. They are making gouache after all, some pigments are basically just watercolor regardless of what you slap on the label, and if a gouache tube is very transparent, why not use a watercolor with superior granulation? That's probably W&N's philosophy anyway. I don't care either way
@@calebcampbell5951 I've been a full time professional artist for many years now.. I have many friends in the industry that work in art supply companies. I dont speak from ignorance or arrogance on the matter either. Iam not saying that the companies " don't care " but there absolutely is a huge difference between designers Gouache and Artists gouache sir. Artists gouache like M. Graham and schmincke are solely made and produced for Fine art use, check their websites for proof ( its there, I've read them and I have a friend that works for M. Graham as well ) they mostly use lightfast pigments and a binder... no white added, they leave that up to the artist. They also do not add marble dust or clays to add extra opacity like many designers Gouache do. The designers Gouaches are produced with the matte quality, opacity and color options in mind for the actual purposes for designing purposes. People today still use designers Gouache for advertisement purpose ( as in creating advertising signs, ads and prints ), Manga, comic books, fine art prints... scan and it doesn't matter. Schmincke actually has 3 seperate gouache brands solely for their purposes... artist gouache for fine art, designers Gouache with high opacity for " designing " and a student grade for budget. All 3 are different and made solely for what the are created for, not just for advertisement reasons ( selling it ) like you say ( proof is on their website as well). Winsor and Newton's designers Gouache was one of the OG's in designers Gouache and they used to be mostly all fugitive colors with opacity in mind for " designers" to scan and trash! They have been quietly changing the pigments for much better lightfastness to compete with " artist gouache ". There is a pure purpose for " Artists gouache " and its fine art, if it's not true like you say... then why do these companies have different types of gouache for different purposes? And why are they targeting fine art use, by putting their money where their mouths are... and making Artists gouache with high lightfast pigments and no additives to add more opacity like designers Gouache brands do? If I didn't know what I was talking about, I wouldn't have said anything... its what I do for a living, and I've been fortunate to be successful at it as well. Hope you have a wonderful day.
@@danieljamesbinderystu2968 its just like you said. Schmincke for example has 3 different kinds of gouache. Horadam for Artist quality, Designer and Akademie for students. I am working with Schmincke watercolor and its the same. There are huge difference in price and quality.
Thank you for this! So if you use designer's gouache and finish it with a UV protectant varnish, would that make a difference? Also, which brand would you recommend for Artist grade Gouache?
Lovely comparisons! I’ve only just tried the W&N recently and falling in love with gouache. Would love to try the Holbein or Schmincke (Sydney Australia) 😊
Wow this brand comparison is very helpful. I live in Japan so Holbein is really cheap and accessible but I want to see if other brands are better but I guess I’ll stick to Holbein. I use W&N for watercolor but I also tried Holbein watercolors.
@@rubyresendez6593 I’m not in Kyoto but I’m pretty sure you can find in most art supply stores there especially there’s Manga museum in Kyoto. Also I’m sure there will be stores for Nihongga watercolors which seems like a little bit opaque traditional watercolors. I live in rural Shikoku but the local Stationary/Art store has the whole range of colors.
This was a phenomenal comparison and I totally agree with the final results. The three that came out on top are the ones that I also enjoy using most, and I agree that Himi is horrible and M Graham is frustrating. I've never tried Daler Rowney Designer's Goauche, but I have a tube of their Aquafine which is okay. Between the top in each category, I enjoy using the Caran D'ache most even though it's difficult to get an opaque consistency because you're rewetting from dry paint. I also think that the convenience of just picking up the palette and working without having to lay out tube paint is why I reach for them the most. The only con is the tube of white gouache which feels like toothpaste. I've been using my other brand whites because they have a better consistency. For this reason, I wish that I could buy replacement pans in the US, but I've only ever seen tubes. Once my palette starts to get empty, I will have to refill with my Winsor & Newton or Holbein. Lastly, if you ever get to try DaVinci gouache, they are also phenomenal. They are only sold in 37ml tubes at a value price but in the US they are the most affordable of the high quality brands. I would imagine that they, like the M Graham, are more expensive and harder to buy outside of the US. Thank you again for taking the time to video this awesome comparison!
Wow thank you so much for your comments, much appreciated! Have you tried cult pens for replacement pans? They might do international post and with them being so small I imagine the post will be small.
I've heard that the DaVinci gouache has a particularly thick consistency, and is almost similar to oil paints in how it feels to use. Have you noticed that at all? I would love to try DaVinci for the affordability, but I think I would prefer a thinner consistency, because I'm used to working with watercolors (I have never tried gouache before so I'm not sure what my preferences would be). Plus, I would probably have to buy some new brushes that are stiffer to be able to use the DaVinci paints if they are as thick as I have heard haha
Another difference between artists quality and designers quality is that artists quality usually focuses on single pigment paints, while designers quality doesn't, and has lot more multi pigment paints, and even dye based paints. Single pigments is better if you want to mix your own colors to customize things, and multi pigments are better if you want the convenience of having perfectly mixed colors ready to use on command. Also, artist's gouache tends to not mix in white to make colors opaque that are naturally more sheer, and instead they add more pigment to try and make up for it, because adding white can make the paint dull and chalky, so leaving the white out makes the paint more versatile, because the artist can decide how opaque they want their paint and choose exactly how much white to add, so it doesn't get too chalky. It's more work for people who just want opaque paints straight away, but for artists who are particular about their paint, then the extra effort is worth it.
Love these comparisons. I’ve been looking for a better set of gouache. I started with theArteza and have used it up. I’d love to try the Schmincke. So beautifully creamy.
I started with that Caran D’ache set and still enjoy using it to decorate my morning journal. Mostly I use Winsor and Newton Designer. I also won a give -away of “Jeece Finest”, which I’d never heard of. Amazon has it listed at $23.49 for 24, 18ml tubes. I was surprised that it actually had lightfast and pigment information and I like how it works!
Thanks so much for the comparisons it's really opened my eyes to what I'd like to try. I think I'll have to try hobein and the M Graham. Mainly because M.Graham is also really hard to get here in Perth, Australia.
Cyan, Magenta and Yellow, are the real primaries. You can make with them all "true" (commonly used) blues and reds, like Ultetamarine, French ulteramarine, Cobalt Blue (All shades), Ceruleon blue, Azure, Pyrole Red, Crimson Red/Lake (All shades).. etc. And yes, ALL shades of bright vibrant viloets and purples, which can never be achieved by the classic "primary" colours of Red, Blue and Yellow. Nice video.
The Miya Himi gave me sheer frustration. I tried and tried. I never threw away an art supply before, I usually give them to my granddaughter, but I wouldn't even give those away. I never felt such relief when it came to getting rid of an art supply. Imo, art supplies should never be a source of anxiety! I used to have tubes of Caran d'Ache gouache but I have never gotten the that palette you have even though I have thought about it many times. I might see if I can find them. I do think, still, even after watching this that I will go with Holbein. Nice video! Very informative! Me thinks it will have to be Holbein in the end.
Winsor and Newton designer gouache has lightfastness listed on the tube, the “designer” label = fugitive is no longer valid today. From memory W&N have over 70 highly lightfast colours in their range so they are as viable as those listed as “artist.” IMHO the W&N are the most enjoyable/smooth/best gouache. The Caran D’ache for sketchbook work or under paintings are brilliant. The Holbein use multiple pigments for one colour, just like their watercolours. They are good quality paints but the multiple pigments stop me from investing fully.
Thank you for watching! I agree with the Windsor and Newton, but I find the Holbein have the same pigments as Windsor and Newton for the standard colours that both do. But Holbein have a wider more unusual colours which I prefer I need conveniency nether than having to worry about mixing etc. For my eyes anyway I just find the Holbein pop off the page more. But Windsor and Newton definitely my second choice.
"designer gouache", and ""artist gouache ", don't automatically tell you anything about the lightfastness. That depends on the pigment and the ratings can be found on the tubes of professional quality gouache. Both designer and artist gouache can be high quality and lightfast, or not depending on the pigment and brand.
Enjoyed your in depth review of Gouach types, however I ended up getting the Caran D’ache set of 8 in the tubes and a large tube of titanuim White from M.Graham as my starting steps into gouache. Presently loving the swatching and color tables being developed. Thank you!!
Nice set-up you have got! I have just been given a set of the Caran tubes too, and on my list of videos to make is a video just about the Caran D'ache gouaches. Glad my video has helped you and Welcome to my channel!
This looks like it was a lot of work! Just wanted to add that maybe something has changed recently but Daler Rowney now has pigment numbers on its website for the designer's gouache.
Yeah I realised recently that they have started to change their gouache line, I think now they know gouache is super popular makes sense that they would. Thanks for watching and yes it was a lot of work but it has answered a lot of questions I had at the time.
3:21 -- What I know is that the gsm refers to the actual weight of the paper. So a square meter of a 300gsm paper weighs 300g. But depending on the composition of the paper, it will seem and/or feel thicker or thinner.
Great Video and nice to chat again! I do enjoy the live chats! Very generous of you to do another giveaway too! I really want to try the Schminke! I loved how they came out of the tube and the colours are nice and vibrant. You know honey am from New Orleans! :P
I've never tried gouache, only watercolour, but it's on my list of things I'd like to try so your video was great for me. From all that you tested I think the Winsor and Newton would be best for me for price/availability/suitability, so I might look into getting some. From the ones in the giveaway I'd love to win the bundle with the Daley Rowney paints in, that looks like a great set. I'm in England. Thank you for the video and the giveaway!
I've only been working with watercolors so far and I really wanted to try gouache this year, I'd like to try the schminke because it seems to smooth and easy to work with! Thank you for the giveaway, it's really generous of you!💗 I'm from India
Im really curious on how professional gouache differs from student grade like Himi Miya as I've only ever used Himi gouache. I'd love to try Holbein or Schmincke please. M Graham would be nice too. I'm from the Philippines, thank you so much for this chance to try out professional gouache paints.😊
I never understand why people do these little swatches and think they can rate a paint by this alone. It’s totally useless until you do actual artwork that you can make any type of informed opinion. With that said EVERY BRAND has transparent colors, it’s the nature of the pigments !
Thanks for your opinion. For the amount of different brands to compare, little swatches are needed in this context. Not only to give an overview and first impressions but to also make the comparison fair. If I was comparing two or three brands then producing artwork would be an option. But in my informed opinion producing artwork for comparison isn’t really fair, as there is more than the media used that goes into the art, such as practice, talent, patience. Reproducing the same artwork nine times over, things are going to change that has nothing to do with media. Thanks for watching.
I have Bern using the Schminke Horadam and the W&N. Today Jackson's delivered one tube of Holbein and one tube of ShinHan. i cant wait to see what they are about. Artists grades are usually less binder, no filler, and more finely ground pigment than the cheaper counterparts. Would live it if the hole in works for me because it's so much less $$ then what I am currently buying here in the US
The problem of not being able to achieve a proper purple is because you chose the wrong type of blue and red. For the brightest purple you need to mix more of a magenta and cyan .
Yep, they are what came in the sets, so I didn’t chose. I am aware that magenta and cyan are best for purples, however in a primary set you would think 🤔 that they would be able to that. But the Holbein still managed to do it so did the Windsor and Newton. Anyhow thank you for watching, hope you got some other use out of the video.
@@studio.spirit your better off buying a split primary set as regular primary sets are geared towards traditional paint mixing rather than the more modern cymk printing style primaries. The traditional style of primary colours always produces slightly muted or dull mixes, whereas the cymk style produces bright mixes. They do this as in nature there are less truly bright colours, most are muted somewhat, so the traditional primary achieves this with no extra effort. If you use cymk primary and you are painting a landscape or portrait for instance you need to take the extra step of deliberately muting the colours to achieve the same result. This is why traditional primary colours are used to make it easier to achieve realistic results.
@@studio.spirit they can do that without the need of cyan and magenta which is a fugitive color anyways lol I feel people in the comments are informing without using context. Obviously the brightest, purest will be from the true primaries, but magenta is a fugitive, so it's not realistic to have it in a palette. That's why primary red, yellow and blue exist. As an alternative, You just need a cool red and a blue with no yellow in it. Ultramarine works great because it's a warm blue, so more towards the cool reds. But any pure blue with no yellow undertone should work. So yes you're totally right, they should make a purple if the manufacturers had chosen the right hue for their primary sets. For example, that blue m. Graham chose as primary looks white-ish and the red looks warmer (on the other hand, it'll make vibrant oranges) Hence the maroonish purple. Could add more blue to tone down that maroon. When you actually paint, you learn these things since you mix your colors all the time. It's not all technicalities. People are being too technical and non flexible about pigments in these comments for some reason. As long as it looks like purple, that's what matters.
@@studio.spirit I went for M Graham, since I love their water colours and their colours seemed to be most lightfast. I also ordered couple from Sennelier and Holbein for testing.
The Caran DAche is drawing my attention for the portability and the fact that they are dry. I live in an arid climate so the Himi are too difficult to maintain.
Thanks for watching, I now use the caran d’ache for sketchbook, quick ideas etc almost every other day. Still find them a joy to use and kinda hoping they will release more colours.
Caran d'ache actually has tube gouache available in sets so you get the same colors as the pre-made palettes. It's a good deal because you end up getting more paint for the price, since for the pre-made palette you are paying for the packaging of the palette along with the paint, and the tubes you're only paying for the paint. Plus, having the opportunity to use it straight from the tube would likely improve the opacity, because sometimes you lose opacity when you use gouache that has dried, like in a pan.
I moved recently and I can't find certain gouache brands at my local art supply stores so this really helped, thank you! I always thought W&N and Holbein were on the same grade because they were at similar price points when I lived in Japan so I was really surprised! I experienced horrible colour separation for W&N tubes thinking I was just unlucky, but I guess that makes sense now. In Japan Holbeins were cheaper so I just bought Holbein. Most colours fell in the range between £2.5-4 each, and even then the more expensive colours were like £6.
Thank you for watching am glad it has helped, I still prefer my Holbein's other the others. Currently working out my own colour palette to use on the go with Holbein, which I will do a video on once I have worked it out, so many choices and mix's!
Hello! Greetings from Canada! 👋 From your description in this video, I'd be so excited to use the Daler Rowney gouache because of how well it layers but also because of its dilution and lifting properties. I think these aspects would allow for lot of versatility when it comes to trying different techniques. I'm new in my gouache journey so I'm so grateful for this video and giveaway opportunity, it's such a useful resource and generous gift. Thank you so much 💓.
Actually if the pigment number shows the pigment as a very light fast pigment, no matter if the paint is Designers Gouache or Artist Gouache. Both have some very fugitive pigment colors. I am very careful looking for the pigment numbers to show me the exact pigments used. .
Well yes and no, even if the pigment is very light fast, depending on what the company uses to bind the product it can actually break down both the pigment and its lightfastness. This was the problem with the old Winsor and Newton Designers gouache but in the last 8 years they have changed and is now on par with artists grade. But they kept the name the same. But other brands i.e.. Daler Rowney, himi and even Caran D'Ache are definitely the traditional Designer gouache.
Red is not a primary colour. Magenta and yellow make carmine, red, orange and yellow-orange. Opera Rose in Winsor and Newton Watercolours is the closest hue to true primary magenta. It requires testing to find a Permanent Rose or Quinacridone Magenta that will suffice as a magenta alternative. Ultramarine blue is not a primary colour but with a true magenta it will make great violets and purples. Blue is mixed by mixing primary magenta and Cyan. A Phthalocyanine Blue is usually as near as one can get to primary cyan. The reason we have violet, purple red, orange, Deep yellow and Ultramarine is that the Yellow, Magenta (alternative) and Cyan (alternative) are chromatically impure in most paint sets. We also add turquoise, and some earth colours and convenience colours. The Caran d'Ache colour range overcomes these problems, it is a well chosen colour selection. I believe the Caran dAche set includes a cyan and a magenta, but you chose red and blue. The Oswald Colour mixing system was wrong and has been replaced in the twentieth century.
Wow, thank you for the very deep explanation, much appreciated! I was just trying to keep of the colours I had from the different sets, similar for the sake of comparison. I knew I wouldn’t really get a purple but was a surprised when I did.
@@studio.spirit Winsor & Newton was bought by an American who set about to make the paints safer. Cadmium is not good to ingest through the mouth or the skin. So a primary red (sic) was introduced to replace cadmium red and vermillion, another dangerous pigment. Winsor red has less yellow and less blue (cyan) in it, making it more like a pure magenta, but it is still far removed from Opera Pink which is close to a true magenta. We need a PPC rating, a perfect primary colour wave length rating on our tubes. Most colours named magenta would score about 5% out of 100%. Yellow may reach 80% to 90%, (but which yellow), and cyan doesn't get a mention. The cyan in phthalocyanine blue, comes from the Greek word, where cyan means blue. It describes a blue-green copper based pigment. As such it contains yellow and while it makes brilliant greens it makes chromatically impure or greyer purples. French Ultramarine and Ultramarine have almost no yellow in them and mixed with Opera Pink (fugitive) or at some sacrifice in purity of colour Permanent Rose or quinacridone magenta, that I use as best alternatives to the absent pure magenta. I work in transparent watercolour and I would have to test the pigments in opaque watercolour. The addition of white filler in poster colours reduces the chromatic purity just as adding grey or black does. I cannot get Caran d'Ache gouache colours in Thailand where I have been living, now I am back in Australia on the Gold Coast and I will try to get a set. It is rare to have magenta and cyan as such in a paint set. I would like to test them out. Not confident about permanency of the pigments used. I had meetings with Art Spectrum when they were developing their opaque water colours, and they tried to make cyan and magenta. Their initial experiments were limited by available pigments and the addition of fillers. That was 40 years ago.
This video was great. Really wish it existed a couple years back when I was researching and looking for the best gouache brands to suit my needs. Would have been super helpful. Despite me being pretty amateurish with my artwork I am overly thorough with the supplies I use. I use several great brands of watercolor on my pallet, and the two brands of gouache I have in my gouache pallet are M. Graham, and Schmincke. I’m going to be adding some colors from Holbein soon. I loved the idea of using gouache but hated the idea of using anything with chalky opacifiers in the paint. Even if they are quality pigment as soon as you add opacifiers to them, they feel cheap, to me. If I want opacity, I’ll add titanium white not chalk haha. Finding all of this info took waaay to much time and research though, so thank you for this great video, hopefully it will help any artists looking for good info on what type of gouache they’d like to purchase now and in the future. 👍😁
There is no general difference betweeen designer and artist gouache some brands call ther highest grade design and some artist only schmincke, has both designer and artist gouache, holbein called it first designer gouache and now changed the name to artist gouache or designers artis gouache. the difference is not really the ligtfastness, just a little bit, (most colors of schmincke's designer gouache are very lightfast too, horadam are some colors more with 5 or les with 2 stars but just a few) its the pigment size and the ammount of chalk added so the horadam gouache is a bit better for wet in wet like transparent watercolor and some colors are not so opaque than the schmicke designers gouache... Because its for artist who like to paint in transparent water color but use it in opaque gouache style as well...but the schmincke designers gouache is their best traditional gouache.
Thanks for watching! W+N I meant to say the binder has a habit of separating from the pigment. But I would say for sure that they are heavily pigmented, and a good choice, its just for me I need something that I can use straight out of the tube without having to mix to get the binder to work and then mix again with water to get the right consistency.
This is such a brilliant in depth video. Very helpful. I'm just wondering if you printed those swatch sheets? If so, would you mind telling me which printer you have? Is it a laser printer? I've been looking for ages for a laser printer that will print on watercolour paper but can't find one that prints on paper that thick.
I think because I printed on hot pressed watercolour paper the ink soaked into the paper a little, so no running. But to be honest never had a problem with ink on any paper. I use the Epson WF7610 with the proper inks (no knock offs) in case you are wandering.
Glad you found it useful! Good question! I couldn’t give you a certain answer, as I don’t have all of the colours for all of the sets, but I would have to say from the ones I do have that both Holbein and Windsor Newton are very good for coverage for most colours that you would expect.
@@jessicagriffith No worries, I will never point out someone’s typos or grammar because It will come back tenfold with my interesting use of language at times.
Super helpful video! I have to take notes. Have you tried Turner gouache by chance? I'm trying to decide between several individual ones of those (and having trouble choosing which ones to become my starter set) vs that WN designer primary set of green, red, blue, yellow, black, and white. Turner's acryl gouache was a pleasure to use in colour theory at school, (I highly recommend it for what it is!) but I would like to try a water soluable gouache to have the freedom to reanimate, lift, learn its qualities, and spare my tools the effects of the polymer. I worry about the WN set's purple mixing capability and inconsistency of body/binder among the colours... But on the other hand I have never tried WN and wonder what it's like. The only traditional gouache I've used was Reeves and was disappointed. (Muted, sort of dull colours) Do you have any advice?? When trying a new brand, what colours would you be most likely to go for as a versatile starter palette? Do you feel this particular WN set is worth it? Do you think it is a good representative of the medium for someone who wants to get to know its idiosyncrasies well? Any advice would be much appreciated! I did a deep dive into the cost/benefit/performance specs and got a bit lost
I think Holbein gouache is cheaper in the US than the UK however if you are in the UK Winsor & Newton is cheaper but expensive in the US so I would factor that into you decision. Yes the binder is a pain but does not effect the quality or pigment but being in the UK I can walk into any art store and pick them up without any hassle. I am a person that likes to have convince colours and Holbein have the same quality and pigment ratio as W&N but a lot more choice when it comes to colours, but have to wait for delivery if I run out. A good starter set for any gouache would be cyan, magenta, lemon yellow, burnet sienna white and black. that way you should be able to mix pretty any colour with vibrant results including purple!
Hello! I’ve been looking for a video with that compares all gouache brands, and this was perfect! I’ve only tried Himi and realized that it’s quite streaky and I tend to use a lot of the paint. After seeing the comparison, I would like to try Holbein and/or Schminke :) thank you for this comprehensive video, it deserves a lot of views especially for those beginners in gouache (like me) or intermediate or advanced artists. Also, I’m from the Philippines :) I hope it’s also ok to ask, what colors (e.g. cool, warm, brows, etc.) do you recommend to begin first (if you have a recommendation for the Holbein line that would be great!)?
Hi, thanks for watching! Glad you find it useful. For the Holbein they do the little starter set with 5 colours (5ml tubes) which it great to get going with. But if you buy them as single tubes I would recommend the primary cyan, magenta, and yellow as you get really vibrant colour mixes with them, along with a burnt sienna, any of the blacks and the zinc white as its better for toning down and mixing where as the permanent white is too opaque for that. Hope this helps!
ARtists Gouache is not usually light fast as they are for designers who photocopy their work. If you want lightfast then you have to by artists or professional Gouache.
While I was enjoying watching this to learn, there are way too many commercials breaking up the content. Unsure if you have any control over that or not, but its not great. Otherwise, great video.
Hi thanks for watching, the paper am using is Derwent watercolour paper (the one with the gorilla on the front) it’s 300gsm but I think it is cellulose not cotton.
Just came across your video. Great info! For a very good “opaque” student grade, (they don’t call it gouache) I’ll just stick with Pelikan Opaque. Pelikan won’t disclose their pigments either, but I can’t imagine the Caran d’Ache gouache set is any better than the Pelikan Opaque. Pelikan also makes a transparent set that is what I think is almost artist quality, BUT no pigment disclosures. 🫤
I've never heard of that!! It sounds interesting, what is it like to paint with? Is it like tempera paint? I've been curious about tempera paint ever since learning that fine art can be made with tempera. I always associated it with paint you use on poster boards and never knew they made artist quality versions, so now I'm really curious about it!
I just wanted to say that I watched this entire video, listened word for word and this was so exceptionally put together and amazing and SO helpful. I am in the US but this is soo amazing and definitely a must watch if your new to gouache or like me, I have been doing everything digital ever since design school, and have really missed doing more traditional painting which is why i love your comparison and opinions. Thank you!
Wow, thank you for your kind comments, glad this video helped you. I am the same I work with screens and digital professionally and just miss the hands on approach, hence I have this channel to share my experiences with people that are interested.
I mostly use Artist Gouache, Schmincke and M. Graham. But I do use some lightfast Holbein colors, and some winsor and newton lightfast colors as well. Artist Gouache is definitely different from designers Gouache. The Artist Gouache doesn't put tons of opaque fillers in them, to make them more opaque. They also don't use cheap binders like dextrin, so Artist Gouache is usually Transparent with many colors.... but they are highly lightfast for finished artwork. I absolutely love winsor and newton and how they handle, cover and feel... same with Holbein, but they are designers Gouache and you have to be very careful with those in finished artwork. They are made to design, scan and makes prints for ads, art prints and well, designing. They don't care about lightfastness as much, because they aren't made for longevity. Now winsor newton has come around alot with their Gouache, and started making more colors lightfast... but they don't test with ASTM or Blue wool, they do " in house ". I always test lightfastness on ALL of my supplies that I might have concerns with myself. I've found one too many labeled as lightfast colors that either shifted in colored, changed in color, and faded some. Also, in the usa... hands down Schmincke is absolutely priced SKY HIGH, 10 tubes will run you well over 200$ ... he'll, some colors are 30+$ a tube, and the M. Graham is so much cheaper than most of these. It all depends on where you live, what will be the cheapest. Anyway, just be careful with designers Gouache and finished work that you might sell....that goes for anyone. Just remember that designers Gouache wasn't designed/ made for longevity.... but designing, so if you have any doubts, test it in a window for 3-4 months. Have a good one
Wow yes thank you for all the information! I am currently running my own lightfast test, a month in at the moment. For Windsor and Newton and Holbein, so far Holbein (which say they are artist grade) is standing up but some of the Windsor and Newton is already changing. I will be doing another video November time showing the results. Thank you for watching.
Unfortunately that's not true, it comes from the **historical** uses of gouache (that you mentioned) and how it had an era of popularity among designers who wanted to work quickly and make prints of the flat, matte texture easier. Gouache just wasn't lighfast back then, and designers happened to not care, but gouache wasn't fugitive *because* they didn't care. It's not the case anymore, any company that makes gouache is making "Artists' gouache because that's who buys it and uses it, and any gouache that's even slightly reputable is very lightfast. There is no meaning behind the names thus no true difference, you may *notice* what you think is a trend but but the name is just marketing, and companies just make their gouache slightly different. W&N using opacifiers sometimes is NO testament to their quality, just their philosophy towards some, lightfast pigments. They are making gouache after all, some pigments are basically just watercolor regardless of what you slap on the label, and if a gouache tube is very transparent, why not use a watercolor with superior granulation? That's probably W&N's philosophy anyway. I don't care either way
@@calebcampbell5951 I've been a full time professional artist for many years now.. I have many friends in the industry that work in art supply companies. I dont speak from ignorance or arrogance on the matter either. Iam not saying that the companies " don't care " but there absolutely is a huge difference between designers Gouache and Artists gouache sir. Artists gouache like M. Graham and schmincke are solely made and produced for Fine art use, check their websites for proof ( its there, I've read them and I have a friend that works for M. Graham as well ) they mostly use lightfast pigments and a binder... no white added, they leave that up to the artist. They also do not add marble dust or clays to add extra opacity like many designers Gouache do. The designers Gouaches are produced with the matte quality, opacity and color options in mind for the actual purposes for designing purposes. People today still use designers Gouache for advertisement purpose ( as in creating advertising signs, ads and prints ), Manga, comic books, fine art prints... scan and it doesn't matter. Schmincke actually has 3 seperate gouache brands solely for their purposes... artist gouache for fine art, designers Gouache with high opacity for " designing " and a student grade for budget. All 3 are different and made solely for what the are created for, not just for advertisement reasons ( selling it ) like you say ( proof is on their website as well). Winsor and Newton's designers Gouache was one of the OG's in designers Gouache and they used to be mostly all fugitive colors with opacity in mind for " designers" to scan and trash! They have been quietly changing the pigments for much better lightfastness to compete with " artist gouache ". There is a pure purpose for " Artists gouache " and its fine art, if it's not true like you say... then why do these companies have different types of gouache for different purposes? And why are they targeting fine art use, by putting their money where their mouths are... and making Artists gouache with high lightfast pigments and no additives to add more opacity like designers Gouache brands do? If I didn't know what I was talking about, I wouldn't have said anything... its what I do for a living, and I've been fortunate to be successful at it as well. Hope you have a wonderful day.
@@danieljamesbinderystu2968 its just like you said. Schmincke for example has 3 different kinds of gouache. Horadam for Artist quality, Designer and Akademie for students. I am working with Schmincke watercolor and its the same. There are huge difference in price and quality.
Thank you for this! So if you use designer's gouache and finish it with a UV protectant varnish, would that make a difference?
Also, which brand would you recommend for Artist grade Gouache?
I love the chart you made! It looks very helpful for comparing the brands.
Glad it was helpful! you can download the chart via like in description if you would like you own to try out. Thank you watching.
wow - what a monstrous project. thank you for that 🙂
Lovely comparisons! I’ve only just tried the W&N recently and falling in love with gouache. Would love to try the Holbein or Schmincke (Sydney Australia) 😊
Wow this brand comparison is very helpful. I live in Japan so Holbein is really cheap and accessible but I want to see if other brands are better but I guess I’ll stick to Holbein. I use W&N for watercolor but I also tried Holbein watercolors.
Glad you found this helpful! Thank you for watching, Holbein's are my go to for traditional gouache.
Where can you buy Holbein in Japan? I just moved to Kyoto last year and I’ve been on the hunt for good art supply stores 😊
@@rubyresendez6593 I’m not in Kyoto but I’m pretty sure you can find in most art supply stores there especially there’s Manga museum in Kyoto. Also I’m sure there will be stores for Nihongga watercolors which seems like a little bit opaque traditional watercolors. I live in rural Shikoku but the local Stationary/Art store has the whole range of colors.
Amazing review. Everything I needed to know!
Thank you glad you found it useful.
This was a phenomenal comparison and I totally agree with the final results. The three that came out on top are the ones that I also enjoy using most, and I agree that Himi is horrible and M Graham is frustrating. I've never tried Daler Rowney Designer's Goauche, but I have a tube of their Aquafine which is okay. Between the top in each category, I enjoy using the Caran D'ache most even though it's difficult to get an opaque consistency because you're rewetting from dry paint. I also think that the convenience of just picking up the palette and working without having to lay out tube paint is why I reach for them the most. The only con is the tube of white gouache which feels like toothpaste. I've been using my other brand whites because they have a better consistency. For this reason, I wish that I could buy replacement pans in the US, but I've only ever seen tubes. Once my palette starts to get empty, I will have to refill with my Winsor & Newton or Holbein. Lastly, if you ever get to try DaVinci gouache, they are also phenomenal. They are only sold in 37ml tubes at a value price but in the US they are the most affordable of the high quality brands. I would imagine that they, like the M Graham, are more expensive and harder to buy outside of the US. Thank you again for taking the time to video this awesome comparison!
Wow thank you so much for your comments, much appreciated! Have you tried cult pens for replacement pans? They might do international post and with them being so small I imagine the post will be small.
I've heard that the DaVinci gouache has a particularly thick consistency, and is almost similar to oil paints in how it feels to use. Have you noticed that at all? I would love to try DaVinci for the affordability, but I think I would prefer a thinner consistency, because I'm used to working with watercolors (I have never tried gouache before so I'm not sure what my preferences would be). Plus, I would probably have to buy some new brushes that are stiffer to be able to use the DaVinci paints if they are as thick as I have heard haha
Love the chart and the test you created so clear and methodical ! Thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another difference between artists quality and designers quality is that artists quality usually focuses on single pigment paints, while designers quality doesn't, and has lot more multi pigment paints, and even dye based paints. Single pigments is better if you want to mix your own colors to customize things, and multi pigments are better if you want the convenience of having perfectly mixed colors ready to use on command.
Also, artist's gouache tends to not mix in white to make colors opaque that are naturally more sheer, and instead they add more pigment to try and make up for it, because adding white can make the paint dull and chalky, so leaving the white out makes the paint more versatile, because the artist can decide how opaque they want their paint and choose exactly how much white to add, so it doesn't get too chalky. It's more work for people who just want opaque paints straight away, but for artists who are particular about their paint, then the extra effort is worth it.
None of this is true. The word artists on a gouache doesn't mean any of that.
Love these comparisons. I’ve been looking for a better set of gouache. I started with theArteza and have used it up. I’d love to try the Schmincke. So beautifully creamy.
I started with that Caran D’ache set and still enjoy using it to decorate my morning journal. Mostly I use Winsor and Newton Designer. I also won a give -away of “Jeece Finest”, which I’d never heard of. Amazon has it listed at $23.49 for 24, 18ml tubes. I was surprised that it actually had lightfast and pigment information and I like how it works!
Wow, nice! I haven't heard of them either. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for the comparisons it's really opened my eyes to what I'd like to try. I think I'll have to try hobein and the M Graham. Mainly because M.Graham is also really hard to get here in Perth, Australia.
Cyan, Magenta and Yellow, are the real primaries.
You can make with them all "true" (commonly used) blues and reds, like Ultetamarine, French ulteramarine, Cobalt Blue (All shades), Ceruleon blue, Azure, Pyrole Red, Crimson Red/Lake (All shades).. etc.
And yes, ALL shades of bright vibrant viloets and purples, which can never be achieved by the classic "primary" colours of Red, Blue and Yellow.
Nice video.
The Miya Himi gave me sheer frustration. I tried and tried. I never threw away an art supply before, I usually give them to my granddaughter, but I wouldn't even give those away. I never felt such relief when it came to getting rid of an art supply. Imo, art supplies should never be a source of anxiety!
I used to have tubes of Caran d'Ache gouache but I have never gotten the that palette you have even though I have thought about it many times. I might see if I can find them. I do think, still, even after watching this that I will go with Holbein. Nice video! Very informative! Me thinks it will have to be Holbein in the end.
Try royal talens gouache
@@xypaisb8026 I actually have a basic set of them and they are nice but Holbein is actually easier to obtain and just a bit less costly where I am.
Winsor and Newton designer gouache has lightfastness listed on the tube, the “designer” label = fugitive is no longer valid today. From memory W&N have over 70 highly lightfast colours in their range so they are as viable as those listed as “artist.”
IMHO the W&N are the most enjoyable/smooth/best gouache. The Caran D’ache for sketchbook work or under paintings are brilliant. The Holbein use multiple pigments for one colour, just like their watercolours. They are good quality paints but the multiple pigments stop me from investing fully.
Thank you for watching! I agree with the Windsor and Newton, but I find the Holbein have the same pigments as Windsor and Newton for the standard colours that both do. But Holbein have a wider more unusual colours which I prefer I need conveniency nether than having to worry about mixing etc. For my eyes anyway I just find the Holbein pop off the page more. But Windsor and Newton definitely my second choice.
Finally someone who comments with actual knowledge.
"designer gouache", and ""artist gouache ", don't automatically tell you anything about the lightfastness. That depends on the pigment and the ratings can be found on the tubes of professional quality gouache. Both designer and artist gouache can be high quality and lightfast, or not depending on the pigment and brand.
Originally it did, but now as you said it depends on pigment and brand. Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed your in depth review of Gouach types, however I ended up getting the Caran D’ache set of 8 in the tubes and a large tube of titanuim White from M.Graham as my starting steps into gouache. Presently loving the swatching and color tables being developed. Thank you!!
Nice set-up you have got! I have just been given a set of the Caran tubes too, and on my list of videos to make is a video just about the Caran D'ache gouaches. Glad my video has helped you and Welcome to my channel!
This looks like it was a lot of work! Just wanted to add that maybe something has changed recently but Daler Rowney now has pigment numbers on its website for the designer's gouache.
Yeah I realised recently that they have started to change their gouache line, I think now they know gouache is super popular makes sense that they would. Thanks for watching and yes it was a lot of work but it has answered a lot of questions I had at the time.
3:21 -- What I know is that the gsm refers to the actual weight of the paper. So a square meter of a 300gsm paper weighs 300g. But depending on the composition of the paper, it will seem and/or feel thicker or thinner.
Thank you! 🙏
Great Video and nice to chat again! I do enjoy the live chats! Very generous of you to do another giveaway too! I really want to try the Schminke! I loved how they came out of the tube and the colours are nice and vibrant. You know honey am from New Orleans! :P
I've never tried gouache, only watercolour, but it's on my list of things I'd like to try so your video was great for me. From all that you tested I think the Winsor and Newton would be best for me for price/availability/suitability, so I might look into getting some. From the ones in the giveaway I'd love to win the bundle with the Daley Rowney paints in, that looks like a great set. I'm in England. Thank you for the video and the giveaway!
You can lightly massage tubes with binder seperation for about a minute to mix it back together.
Thanks for the tip never thought of that.
Nice comparisons. Only one I've tried is the Caran d'ache. I would like to try any of the artist quality gouaches. Watching from the United States.
How do you print on watercolor paper? An inkjet would bleed, I think? Did you print it on a laser?
I've only been working with watercolors so far and I really wanted to try gouache this year, I'd like to try the schminke because it seems to smooth and easy to work with! Thank you for the giveaway, it's really generous of you!💗 I'm from India
Im really curious on how professional gouache differs from student grade like Himi Miya as I've only ever used Himi gouache. I'd love to try Holbein or Schmincke please. M Graham would be nice too. I'm from the Philippines, thank you so much for this chance to try out professional gouache paints.😊
I never understand why people do these little swatches and think they can rate a paint by this alone. It’s totally useless until you do actual artwork that you can make any type of informed opinion. With that said EVERY BRAND has transparent colors, it’s the nature of the pigments !
Thanks for your opinion. For the amount of different brands to compare, little swatches are needed in this context. Not only to give an overview and first impressions but to also make the comparison fair. If I was comparing two or three brands then producing artwork would be an option. But in my informed opinion producing artwork for comparison isn’t really fair, as there is more than the media used that goes into the art, such as practice, talent, patience. Reproducing the same artwork nine times over, things are going to change that has nothing to do with media. Thanks for watching.
I have Bern using the Schminke Horadam and the W&N. Today Jackson's delivered one tube of Holbein and one tube of ShinHan. i cant wait to see what they are about. Artists grades are usually less binder, no filler, and more finely ground pigment than the cheaper counterparts. Would live it if the hole in works for me because it's so much less $$ then what I am currently buying here in the US
Let me know how you get on with them, be interesting to hear your take on them. Thanks for watching
Great methodical comparison 👍
Thanks! Hope you found it useful.
The problem of not being able to achieve a proper purple is because you chose the wrong type of blue and red. For the brightest purple you need to mix more of a magenta and cyan .
Yep, they are what came in the sets, so I didn’t chose. I am aware that magenta and cyan are best for purples, however in a primary set you would think 🤔 that they would be able to that. But the Holbein still managed to do it so did the Windsor and Newton. Anyhow thank you for watching, hope you got some other use out of the video.
@@studio.spirit your better off buying a split primary set as regular primary sets are geared towards traditional paint mixing rather than the more modern cymk printing style primaries. The traditional style of primary colours always produces slightly muted or dull mixes, whereas the cymk style produces bright mixes. They do this as in nature there are less truly bright colours, most are muted somewhat, so the traditional primary achieves this with no extra effort. If you use cymk primary and you are painting a landscape or portrait for instance you need to take the extra step of deliberately muting the colours to achieve the same result. This is why traditional primary colours are used to make it easier to achieve realistic results.
@@studio.spirit they can do that without the need of cyan and magenta which is a fugitive color anyways lol I feel people in the comments are informing without using context. Obviously the brightest, purest will be from the true primaries, but magenta is a fugitive, so it's not realistic to have it in a palette. That's why primary red, yellow and blue exist. As an alternative, You just need a cool red and a blue with no yellow in it. Ultramarine works great because it's a warm blue, so more towards the cool reds. But any pure blue with no yellow undertone should work. So yes you're totally right, they should make a purple if the manufacturers had chosen the right hue for their primary sets. For example, that blue m. Graham chose as primary looks white-ish and the red looks warmer (on the other hand, it'll make vibrant oranges) Hence the maroonish purple. Could add more blue to tone down that maroon. When you actually paint, you learn these things since you mix your colors all the time. It's not all technicalities. People are being too technical and non flexible about pigments in these comments for some reason. As long as it looks like purple, that's what matters.
Great video! It really helped me to pick my colours
Glad it helped, which did you chose?
@@studio.spirit I went for M Graham, since I love their water colours and their colours seemed to be most lightfast. I also ordered couple from Sennelier and Holbein for testing.
The Caran DAche is drawing my attention for the portability and the fact that they are dry. I live in an arid climate so the Himi are too difficult to maintain.
Thanks for watching, I now use the caran d’ache for sketchbook, quick ideas etc almost every other day. Still find them a joy to use and kinda hoping they will release more colours.
Caran d'ache actually has tube gouache available in sets so you get the same colors as the pre-made palettes. It's a good deal because you end up getting more paint for the price, since for the pre-made palette you are paying for the packaging of the palette along with the paint, and the tubes you're only paying for the paint. Plus, having the opportunity to use it straight from the tube would likely improve the opacity, because sometimes you lose opacity when you use gouache that has dried, like in a pan.
I moved recently and I can't find certain gouache brands at my local art supply stores so this really helped, thank you! I always thought W&N and Holbein were on the same grade because they were at similar price points when I lived in Japan so I was really surprised! I experienced horrible colour separation for W&N tubes thinking I was just unlucky, but I guess that makes sense now. In Japan Holbeins were cheaper so I just bought Holbein. Most colours fell in the range between £2.5-4 each, and even then the more expensive colours were like £6.
Thank you for watching am glad it has helped, I still prefer my Holbein's other the others. Currently working out my own colour palette to use on the go with Holbein, which I will do a video on once I have worked it out, so many choices and mix's!
@@studio.spirit oh thank you, I’d love that!
Hello! Greetings from Canada! 👋 From your description in this video, I'd be so excited to use the Daler Rowney gouache because of how well it layers but also because of its dilution and lifting properties. I think these aspects would allow for lot of versatility when it comes to trying different techniques. I'm new in my gouache journey so I'm so grateful for this video and giveaway opportunity, it's such a useful resource and generous gift. Thank you so much 💓.
Actually if the pigment number shows the pigment as a very light fast pigment, no matter if the paint is Designers Gouache or Artist Gouache. Both have some very fugitive pigment colors. I am very careful looking for the pigment numbers to show me the exact pigments used.
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Well yes and no, even if the pigment is very light fast, depending on what the company uses to bind the product it can actually break down both the pigment and its lightfastness. This was the problem with the old Winsor and Newton Designers gouache but in the last 8 years they have changed and is now on par with artists grade. But they kept the name the same. But other brands i.e.. Daler Rowney, himi and even Caran D'Ache are definitely the traditional Designer gouache.
Red is not a primary colour. Magenta and yellow make carmine, red, orange and yellow-orange. Opera Rose in Winsor and Newton Watercolours is the closest hue to true primary magenta. It requires testing to find a Permanent Rose or Quinacridone Magenta that will suffice as a magenta alternative.
Ultramarine blue is not a primary colour but with a true magenta it will make great violets and purples. Blue is mixed by mixing primary magenta and Cyan. A Phthalocyanine Blue is usually as near as one can get to primary cyan.
The reason we have violet, purple red, orange, Deep yellow and Ultramarine is that the Yellow, Magenta (alternative) and Cyan (alternative) are chromatically impure in most paint sets. We also add turquoise, and some earth colours and convenience colours.
The Caran d'Ache colour range overcomes these problems, it is a well chosen colour selection. I believe the Caran dAche set includes a cyan and a magenta, but you chose red and blue. The Oswald Colour mixing system was wrong and has been replaced in the twentieth century.
Wow, thank you for the very deep explanation, much appreciated! I was just trying to keep of the colours I had from the different sets, similar for the sake of comparison. I knew I wouldn’t really get a purple but was a surprised when I did.
@@studio.spirit Winsor & Newton was bought by an American who set about to make the paints safer. Cadmium is not good to ingest through the mouth or the skin. So a primary red (sic) was introduced to replace cadmium red and vermillion, another dangerous pigment. Winsor red has less yellow and less blue (cyan) in it, making it more like a pure magenta, but it is still far removed from Opera Pink which is close to a true magenta.
We need a PPC rating, a perfect primary colour wave length rating on our tubes. Most colours named magenta would score about 5% out of 100%. Yellow may reach 80% to 90%, (but which yellow), and cyan doesn't get a mention.
The cyan in phthalocyanine blue, comes from the Greek word, where cyan means blue. It describes a blue-green copper based pigment. As such it contains yellow and while it makes brilliant greens it makes chromatically impure or greyer purples. French Ultramarine and Ultramarine have almost no yellow in them and mixed with Opera Pink (fugitive) or at some sacrifice in purity of colour Permanent Rose or quinacridone magenta, that I use as best alternatives to the absent pure magenta.
I work in transparent watercolour and I would have to test the pigments in opaque watercolour. The addition of white filler in poster colours reduces the chromatic purity just as adding grey or black does.
I cannot get Caran d'Ache gouache colours in Thailand where I have been living, now I am back in Australia on the Gold Coast and I will try to get a set. It is rare to have magenta and cyan as such in a paint set. I would like to test them out. Not confident about permanency of the pigments used.
I had meetings with Art Spectrum when they were developing their opaque water colours, and they tried to make cyan and magenta. Their initial experiments were limited by available pigments and the addition of fillers. That was 40 years ago.
@@bobjuniel8683 wow again full of useful information. Thank you.
This video was great. Really wish it existed a couple years back when I was researching and looking for the best gouache brands to suit my needs. Would have been super helpful. Despite me being pretty amateurish with my artwork I am overly thorough with the supplies I use. I use several great brands of watercolor on my pallet, and the two brands of gouache I have in my gouache pallet are M. Graham, and Schmincke. I’m going to be adding some colors from Holbein soon. I loved the idea of using gouache but hated the idea of using anything with chalky opacifiers in the paint. Even if they are quality pigment as soon as you add opacifiers to them, they feel cheap, to me. If I want opacity, I’ll add titanium white not chalk haha. Finding all of this info took waaay to much time and research though, so thank you for this great video, hopefully it will help any artists looking for good info on what type of gouache they’d like to purchase now and in the future. 👍😁
Wow thank you for kind comments, glad you found my video useful even though it is a little late for you. Thank you for watching.
Well done! Great video. I wish I found it sooner. I absolutely love your chart and the thoroughness of it. What printer did you use to print it?
Glad it was helpful! Epson WF 7710 with the official inks.
There is no general difference betweeen designer and artist gouache some brands call ther highest grade design and some artist only schmincke, has both designer and artist gouache, holbein called it first designer gouache and now changed the name to artist gouache or designers artis gouache. the difference is not really the ligtfastness, just a little bit, (most colors of schmincke's designer gouache are very lightfast too, horadam are some colors more with 5 or les with 2 stars but just a few) its the pigment size and the ammount of chalk added so the horadam gouache is a bit better for wet in wet like transparent watercolor and some colors are not so opaque than the schmicke designers gouache... Because its for artist who like to paint in transparent water color but use it in opaque gouache style as well...but the schmincke designers gouache is their best traditional gouache.
Thank you for the helpful information and thanks for watching.
great comparisons, thank you! But Winsor and Newton more binder than pigment?
Thanks for watching! W+N I meant to say the binder has a habit of separating from the pigment. But I would say for sure that they are heavily pigmented, and a good choice, its just for me I need something that I can use straight out of the tube without having to mix to get the binder to work and then mix again with water to get the right consistency.
Hi, I would like to try Holbein and/or Schminke because I've never tried gouache before and I liked the look of those the best. I'm from the UK :)
Congratulations Jay for winning a set of gouache! Please contact me via Instagram to let me know where to send the goodies.
@@studio.spirit oh wow, thank you so much ❤️ ❤️
This is such a brilliant in depth video. Very helpful. I'm just wondering if you printed those swatch sheets? If so, would you mind telling me which printer you have? Is it a laser printer? I've been looking for ages for a laser printer that will print on watercolour paper but can't find one that prints on paper that thick.
Thanks! Yes I printed them but with an inkjet. Sorry!
@@studio.spirit Ok, thanks for answering anyhow. I'm amazed that the ink didn't run. The ink on my inkjet isn't waterproof.
I think because I printed on hot pressed watercolour paper the ink soaked into the paper a little, so no running. But to be honest never had a problem with ink on any paper. I use the Epson WF7610 with the proper inks (no knock offs) in case you are wandering.
Hii
I would love try using gauche because I've never have
Hi 👋 how are you?
@@studio.spirit hii
Thx
is there any cheap gouache like an artist version except holbein?
Hi, it depends on what country you are in?
I love the caran d ache pans they may be amosgst my favoates
I still get giddy using those, also great to throw in the bag and go.
Wow, I can't believe I watched the whole video was vary helpful thanks😊. What do you think has the best coverage for most of it colors?
Glad you found it useful! Good question! I couldn’t give you a certain answer, as I don’t have all of the colours for all of the sets, but I would have to say from the ones I do have that both Holbein and Windsor Newton are very good for coverage for most colours that you would expect.
Thank you very much 🤍🥰
Thank you so much. This was incredibly helpfully!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yay! Glad you found it useful, and thank you for watching.
@@studio.spirit Oops. Thanks for liking my typo! I meant it was incredibly helpful. I was so happy to find your video, I didn’t even proofread. Haha.
@@jessicagriffith No worries, I will never point out someone’s typos or grammar because It will come back tenfold with my interesting use of language at times.
Super helpful video! I have to take notes.
Have you tried Turner gouache by chance? I'm trying to decide between several individual ones of those (and having trouble choosing which ones to become my starter set) vs that WN designer primary set of green, red, blue, yellow, black, and white.
Turner's acryl gouache was a pleasure to use in colour theory at school, (I highly recommend it for what it is!) but I would like to try a water soluable gouache to have the freedom to reanimate, lift, learn its qualities, and spare my tools the effects of the polymer. I worry about the WN set's purple mixing capability and inconsistency of body/binder among the colours... But on the other hand I have never tried WN and wonder what it's like. The only traditional gouache I've used was Reeves and was disappointed. (Muted, sort of dull colours)
Do you have any advice?? When trying a new brand, what colours would you be most likely to go for as a versatile starter palette? Do you feel this particular WN set is worth it? Do you think it is a good representative of the medium for someone who wants to get to know its idiosyncrasies well?
Any advice would be much appreciated! I did a deep dive into the cost/benefit/performance specs and got a bit lost
I think Holbein gouache is cheaper in the US than the UK however if you are in the UK Winsor & Newton is cheaper but expensive in the US so I would factor that into you decision. Yes the binder is a pain but does not effect the quality or pigment but being in the UK I can walk into any art store and pick them up without any hassle. I am a person that likes to have convince colours and Holbein have the same quality and pigment ratio as W&N but a lot more choice when it comes to colours, but have to wait for delivery if I run out. A good starter set for any gouache would be cyan, magenta, lemon yellow, burnet sienna white and black. that way you should be able to mix pretty any colour with vibrant results including purple!
Hello! I’ve been looking for a video with that compares all gouache brands, and this was perfect! I’ve only tried Himi and realized that it’s quite streaky and I tend to use a lot of the paint. After seeing the comparison, I would like to try Holbein and/or Schminke :) thank you for this comprehensive video, it deserves a lot of views especially for those beginners in gouache (like me) or intermediate or advanced artists. Also, I’m from the Philippines :)
I hope it’s also ok to ask, what colors (e.g. cool, warm, brows, etc.) do you recommend to begin first (if you have a recommendation for the Holbein line that would be great!)?
Hi, thanks for watching! Glad you find it useful. For the Holbein they do the little starter set with 5 colours (5ml tubes) which it great to get going with. But if you buy them as single tubes I would recommend the primary cyan, magenta, and yellow as you get really vibrant colour mixes with them, along with a burnt sienna, any of the blacks and the zinc white as its better for toning down and mixing where as the permanent white is too opaque for that. Hope this helps!
@@studio.spirit this is most helpful thank you! I will look into these colors :)
ARtists Gouache is not usually light fast as they are for designers who photocopy their work. If you want lightfast then you have to by artists or professional Gouache.
For a bright purple you really need a magenta and a cyan. The blues and red almost always come out far too deep to be purple.
Yep I know, I just working with what came in the sets, but is interesting that some do and some don’t.
While I was enjoying watching this to learn, there are way too many commercials breaking up the content. Unsure if you have any control over that or not, but its not great. Otherwise, great video.
Oh sorry about that, i don’t think I can control that.
140 pound paper?
100%cotton?
Thank you
Hi thanks for watching, the paper am using is Derwent watercolour paper (the one with the gorilla on the front) it’s 300gsm but I think it is cellulose not cotton.
Just came across your video. Great info! For a very good “opaque” student grade, (they don’t call it gouache) I’ll just stick with Pelikan Opaque. Pelikan won’t disclose their pigments either, but I can’t imagine the Caran d’Ache gouache set is any better than the Pelikan Opaque. Pelikan also makes a transparent set that is what I think is almost artist quality, BUT no pigment disclosures. 🫤
Thank you for watching, and thanks for the tip I’ll have a look out for pelikan!
I've never heard of that!! It sounds interesting, what is it like to paint with? Is it like tempera paint? I've been curious about tempera paint ever since learning that fine art can be made with tempera. I always associated it with paint you use on poster boards and never knew they made artist quality versions, so now I'm really curious about it!