Hey bro, 100% sincere honest question. Are you okay? Your vibe/mood seemed noticeably low and perhaps a little bummed out? We appreciate you man! Ive learned a lot from you. Remember, nothing stays bad forever!
Holy shit that quote about getting into creative arts because you have good taste, then hate your early stuff BECAUSE you have good taste just blew my mind. I've gone through this with my personal chef side business. The thought of taking on clients and knowing you'll F up and under-deliver sometimes was paralyzing. But you can only blow past that with more consistent work. If you actually DO suck at it, you'll know. Otherwise you just keep going up. That counts for any creative work, for sure.
absolutely prefer the long 'ramble' format deep/dive of answering questions - but happy to support whatever makes producing content each week, more sustainable/enjoyable.
About the streetwear topic I think is more about clothing brands that are making attire for street/public spaces group activities. Skate is one of the biggest things that definied, but every city will have street wear based in his local culture, can be vogue, surf, local music activities, for me in brasil can be pagode or funk. Is very third space oriented.
I think what would be considered street wear these days are brands that wouldn't call themselves street wear. They're DIY brands made by a single person or produced in small runs because that's all they can produce. The clothes are modeled or worn by mostly their friends or figures in local alternative scenes. The term Streetwear has changed to exactly what you described. In LA, I can name 10-20 brands that are local but all make the same types of clothing. Boxy graphic tees, sweatpants, basic sweaters (sometimes boxy). They're trying to replicate those before them (Supreme, FTP, Bape, Fuct). While these clothes are what you'd normally see in the street, it usually fails to capture that DIY and rebellious nature of those personal brands that continue the original mentality of Streetwear
I agree. Streetwear as we knew it once was about expression. Creating something that you and your friends can relate to. If it so happened that it became popular enough where they could make a really good living out of it was a bonus. Nowadays, all that passion is gone, there is no sense of uniqueness, it just seems to be about money and fame, for the most part. No rebellion in that.
@@balazs7235 - My approach, precisely. I simply make what I want, if people like it? cool. However, there’s always the people around who emphasize money. Sad thing is, explaining to them is pointless because people rarely have the means/time to pursue their passions.
Can you make an extended video discussing the first question, What Ever Happened to Streetwear? It would be interesting to hear your opinion (and history/facts) on the rise and fall of streetwear.
It became mainstream and co opted by the rich and luxury. When people started mixing high fashion with streetwear it lost its meaning. Virgil was right when he said streetwear is dead since most people can’t even define it anymore.
For me. when it comes to insecurity about wearing what you like in public is doing it slowly. Starting out with a shoe or accessory, maybe something underneath a coat so it shows halfway. Then over time wearing more and more of the pieces you love at the same time as you grow more comfortable. Also doing it with people you feel comfortable with. Or testing it full out at an event you feel comfortable at!
bliss, if im being honest i need more of your deeply thought through videos. The way you DEEPLY dive into meaning and art is what every single content creator lacks. Those videos are REAL content, not just content for enjoyment but makes me think for weeks. I know that they require immense amount of research and time but they are so extremely valuable and those of us like me, deeply appreciate it. I need this, many of us do. and I know you do Q and A because it generates the most views and I am happy for you because you deserve that. Best of luck brother, you're the most authentic creator ive seen by far, somebody who has a passions and just wants to share it. Thank you
"Its normal for it to take a while" Exactly what I needed to hear. Like its channeled! Trying to get a tattoo apprenticeship and, man, this shit takes time and a lot of networking
‘The quality of the garment is the design’!!!!!! Also love the notion of sampling from as many different brands as you can. Do you also consider potential resale value when buying an item of clothing? Your channel is huge for learning about more designers. I’m curious about your process for identification.
This advice is excellent. It transcends fashion and could definitely be applied to life in a lot of ways. This is my first Bliss Foster video but I can already say that I am definitely a fan. Very refreshing.
Don’t got much 2 say just love your vids. Your channel acts like a bridge between my understanding of execution and the concept behind them. i.e. I can make tuff fits/confident in my taste so far but you provide fashion lore so it’s not just “shirt jacket pants” to me and I understand why & can expand on it. Lol I’m yapping but ur dope
Great video Mr. & Mrs. Bliss Foster! I think that it was in the 90's when Streetwear was showcased as a major section in the garment industry the sad thing is that then many brands went the aspirational/coveted clothes route and jacked up prices. Funny thing in Fashion is that everyone is after what is new, but new with status attached to it. Thank you Bliss & Daniella for all the great content you guys make and share in this wonderful channel!
yea! exactly we go out in public to be seen so much more rarely now a days and at least where i live i feels like everyone ( not just the well off or fashionable) feel much more deliberate about what your wearing out even just a year ago people wearing pajamas and slippers down to the shops was so common but i cant remember when it changed but no one does that anymore and yea so much more vintage and preloved clothing being worn proudly
Except the gag is streetwear was literally created by lower class Black people in the 80’s (from the literal streets) who were already wearing fast fashion. Streetwear is holes in your jeans. It’s Nikes with whatever baggy shirt from an Asian corner store and cool accessories you can get anywhere. It can be fast fashion, and it could be supreme. Black people & urbanites that followed them back in the day didn’t care about quality or price they cared about brands. They’d get a knockoff Gucci shirt from the flea market and made it work with old basketball shorts & converse they got from their older brothers. This is why I don’t like the discussion of streetwear today, y’all have turned it into a luxury trend for rich people who spend stupid amounts of money on “‘quality clothing”” all to pretend they’re from the hood but “”sleek”’ when it originally that was never the case. Small independent brands charge that stupid amount because capitalism and upcycling/thrifting, something that used to be cheap and available to the poor, has now become such a hot trend online that sellers and even Goodwill of all places price gouge. Honestly, any working class person who wears fast fashion streetwear is doing it right. That’s literally how it started.
well yes because all fashion houses engage in some sort of capitalism? what a nothing burger of a comment. i mean im not a fan of capitalism but the business of fashion has always been very capitalistic lets be for real
i believe true streetwear should always have a personal connection in each piece and a sense of necessity while still being artistically informed. whether thats a handmade touch or a graphic that warrants an emotional response directly from the ethos of the designers inspiration. i dont like how people try to steal narratives because their "high fashion" concepts dont really work in the industry so they bulldoze actual streetwear designers and change the narrative.
I kind of disagree with your poly take. I used to think the same until I actually invested in high-end athletic compression wear. Sure thats a different use case than daily wear but it made me reconsider my black and white opinions on polyester
"Is that appropriate and okay?" You guys really are a team huh? I appreciate people who value the opinion of their friends, partners (business or otherwise) etc. It shows maturity and a level of wisdom
you are so right about the quality. The other day a wannabe (?) fashion influencer talked about a woven knit she had on. You can sell people ANYthing if they know so little about clothes and the fabric they are made of. This knowledge used to be essential before fast fashion, because you wanted your clothes to last.
I think your audience would love a video "top 50 unknown/lesser fashion designers/brands you should know". This way you can group them in one video, and or make a small series of videos about these people and their work. And if you feel like this would be a good idea: Please consider adding links to each ones website, socials or other ways to connect with them so we might support their work.
For the 3rd question, I’m a painter and lots of my peers think I grow fast. The only reason is because each piece is just building onto a lego tower. Use pieces to learn a specific skill or technique and apply it to the next piece but in a different context. One piece was a head spilling over like a cup and the next was a head spouting lava. A completely different concept just changing the direction and force of the action! I’m sure this applies to all art forms such as fashion!
Maybe I have just been lucky, but I love the few pieces I have purchased that are 100% polyester. I recently picked up a Sies Marjan poly shirt with a cool iridescence to it. It feels great against the skin and stays cool with the top few buttons undone. I also have a pair of early 00’s Prada poly pants that are warm but create an interesting opportunity to mix things up with winter fabrics.
Street wear to me was anything I capture during my street photography runs…which can be anything. 🤔 I guess mixing anything and everything along with any diy styling. While I can’t really afford some of the smaller brands you’ve mentioned in previous videos, I am starting to envision what pieces go with my wardrobe and being more intentional with what I consider buying.
I'm kind of of two minds fashion wise: on one hand I kind of want to focus on long term wear, where you might change the laces or repair the soles, but generally the same pair of shoes might serve someone for at least twenty years. Things like modular design concepts, where parts are replaceable, yet sturdy like work boots. On the other, I'm finding myself increasingly drawn to Costume Design for broadway musicals more specifically. Or even what I call "Broadway Casual", it looks formal by the average trip to the movie theatre or to the beach, but it's relatively informal, even for lack of a better word "trashy" as an aesthetic choice. Edit: There is also the fact that I'm more of a traditional artist ( soft pastels and sumi painting ) yet I heard fashion illustration is going the way of digital these days.
I don’t really think those two concepts are as at odds as you think they are, like considering how the costumes worn during broadway shows need to go through potentially years of being danced around in night after night the theatricality and the practical durability are a match made in heaven
Streetwear was never real. None of the subcultures or groups who initially defined the codes or wore them called what they wore “streetwear” (or considered it that) - for example if they skated and wore signifiers of skating they were simply skaters, and so on and so on. Streetwear therefore is best understood as a sellable simulacrum of a range of discrete, urban subculture signifiers. It’s no surprise that it eventually collapsed in a heap as it had no foundation outside of being abstracted transactional value - which was mainly driven by hype culture and the exploitation of niche groups, impoverished peoples and sweatshop labour. In many ways I think streetwear could be considered the ultimate capitalist mode of clothing.
@@alphadream953 Yes. I think most of the "streetwear" brands, even if (supposedly) well-meaning, failed to understand the economic system they were situating themselves within or they did and didn’t care. Once again it’s not about the specific niches/subcultures which were forcibly combined together under the false umbrella of streetwear but instead this generic overarching concept which contains no genuine culture or meaning outside of the desire to generate capital.
I do love black, but black has been ruined for me. It was the dress code for every workplace I had. I don't want to look like I work for every retail store, restaurant, or apartment complex. Which means, the black I own has to be ornate or so sexy, it'd be inappropriate to wear in daylight. Daytime me and nighttime me are two different people. I'm trying to join them together, but haven't found the secret to that yet.
Speaking of fast fashion brands trying be more "fashion". What do you think about those companies collaborating with designers? For example Zara and Studio Nicholson or H&M H2 (Heron Preston Collab).
Lately I have been wearing clothes that make me feel good about myself more so than before but that has also been getting me a lot of unwanted attention when I'm at a bus stop or in a shop. I don't want to change my style because of some sleazy old men but it feels like I have no other choice. Have you ever experienced this? And if so, how did you deal with it?
The jump from Lifestyle to high fashion seems like everest with no shoes lol WHats a good list of people that made that jump? Also do you think it's important to seek out getting more pr? if so what's good advice to seeking that.
For me streetwear came from a social class and a place so called the “ghetto” but with time the higher class started to get interested in this style and it’s why now we have high price Nike shoes and all those things
12:58 one note on the cheaper-desginer-pricing: Look for smaller brands! Lot's of brands price for DTC (direct to consumer) before approaching Retailers, where the price could skyrocket
I'll give an example as to why: DTC Pricing: - Production Cost: $50 - Mark Up to Customer: 3x (can be lower, but is obviously necessary to make money) -------------------------------- - Final Price: $150 Selling to Retailer pricing: - Production Cost: $50 - Mark up to Retailer: 2x (this is because the brand is literally selling the product to the retailer, who then has to decide what to do with it) - Retailer's Markup: 2x (this is necessary for the retailer to make money off what they buy from the brand) ------------------------------------ - Retailer pays: $100 - Final Price: $200 The 2x-2x markup for retailers is incredibly common, and the brand shouldn't offer lower prices on their own site/stores (specifically for DTC purchases) because that would undercut the retailers and muddle the brand reputation, or the retailer's. Also consider that if the brand switched focus from DTC to Retailer's, they're receiving less money per-product, often times a lot less. So if they cannot invest in flagship stores, independent marketing, or general DTC necessities, they have to work with retailers. So, anyways, shop DTC brands. Supreme, for example, only does DTC. Not tying to put you onto Supreme LOL but a good example of how DTC can keep quality high, and prices low. But once you try to expand into retail, you basically have no choice but to raise prices.
Also wanted to reply again and say I agree: that price point is often the scammer price point. The entirety of Nordstrom is this pricepoint, as far as I've been able to tell.
I feel like your answer to the streetwear question is valid but also a horrific and sad answer. You undoubtedly know more about fashion and its history than I do so I won’t go through the PowerPoint presentation of streetwear, culture, hip hop etc. but as a whole it feels like the entire industry was cannibalized by greed as well as large design houses. I remember one year, looking through what every major luxury fashion brand was coming out with and most of it was overrated, overpriced, copies of streetwear. It didn’t feel rebellious or interesting. It felt sleazy. And it sucks because I liked seeing people modify their clothes growing up; cutting shoes so hat they could still fit in them, drawing and printing shirts, taking a hoodie and a jacket and making something different out of it. That to me is streetwear. It’s people being creative with what they got. But fast fashion crap, and now even luxury brands, just mass market and sell what looks like streetwear and it’s sold out of convenience. That hoodie isn’t striking or unique anymore. It’s just a convenient hoodie. And most people don’t really read or know about fashion, so they get taken advantage of and it’s all in the name of he all mighty dollar. Streetwear will survive. But it needs to adapt to protect itself from greedy leeches.
Streetwear is looks that are put together by people outside fashion. In the 70s to eighties poor kids wore tracksuits because sportswear was not fashion and so was cheap and it was durable and comfortable. They wore shoes without laces because they might be hand-me-downs that are slightly small. When they made money they wanted people to know so they bought rings and chains. Yes, I know I just described one specfic look but its the same principle whether its hiphop or skaters. A design house making streetwear is a contradiction.
Tough to get out of the T-shirt/hoodies/fast fashion box when streetwear is MEANT to be accessible to both underprivileged creators and consumers. It’s like critiquing rappers for having a low bar of musical talent. There’s gonna be the occasional rare talent that gets put on by the industry (and then make stuff happen that’s inaccessible to the non-mainstream audience), but most artists in that genre will not.
Bliss is the only other person I've seen talk about doublet or Charles Jeffery or just stuff I've never heard of but have maybe seen on SSENSE he got his finger on the pulse of the little guys.
funny how in some things we like things that are fast, like 100 yard dash for example. yet other things fast can be considered lower quality. how does that work?
Comment on the storytelling question: Clothing design IS story telling. If you want to design clothes without telling stories, you're actually looking for a more specific facet than not. For example: if you work in construction, the "story" is "this garment must be good for construction". Arguably still story telling, but the person working in construction making clothes for construction, well, they work in construction, not Fashion. It just so happens what they need to make is clothing. The difference between Rick Owens and Carhartt is not quality, it's story telling. (in fact if it were quality, the Carhartt would be likely to win out by any measurable means)
I've been wondering Bliss, even if it might be a long shot. As a photographer & videographer that lives in Istanbul, but comes to Europe mainly Milan every year or so. Is there a way we can work together? As in is there an occasion in which you are in need of a photographer or a videographer?
Street wear - what folks wear out & about = general answer. Street wear = outfits joyously put together by individuals who strongly believe that clothes are artistic self-expression = modern interpretation.
Bliss, to me what you're wearing is street style. It's an individuals unique mix of well loved clothing pieces. It may be wearing a pair of Rick Owens furry Birkenstocks with a beloved North Beach Leather Moto jacket and an R13 dress with a tote bag from the Row. And, maybe toss on a hoodie if there's a chill in the air. If there's a cool mix of proportions or play with materials all the better. Maybe the hoodie is made of silver sequins. Maybe, Rick's furries are tossed off and a pair of MiuMiu engineer boots are thrown on and left unbuckled or a favorite pair of vintage Ann Demeulemeester boots are pulled on. It's in the mix. None of the pieces need to be poor quality or fast fashion. Better if they're not. A well made 100% cotton t-shirt is a lifer. :)
Love these videos and I respect the fact that 'fashionable' is subjective. I have never ever liked how Bliss clothes fit him or how he puts them together. I do love his knowledge and all his vids though
Meant as a constructive piece of feedback: I stopped watching your videos a while ago and I did so with great regret. I found myself building up excitement and expectations based on the often very interesting titles and then finding the videos to be about a seemingly random set of viewer questions each of which was getting 30 seconds to a couple of minutes of commentary. I'd much rather watch the full, deep-dive video about whatever happened to Streetwear and your personal take, as I value you as a creator and expert on fashion and come to your content for your unique opinion. Food for thought.
Any brand that thinks they can sell a dress for less than $100.- for sure. H&M, Zara, Shein, Forever21, Primark, Temu. But then also more expensive brands who just put their branding on a shitty t-shirt to sell as mercy like Gucci. Sure, gucci has good things too, but their t-shirts definitely count as fast fashion in my eyes
*merch I would also count brands who think that a good real cashmere sweater can cost less than $600.- to that list. I know cashmere is all the rage at the moment but there are simply not enough cashmere goats in the world to justify a cheaper price. I don't know where all of this fake cashmere is coming from!
lowk i feel like that definition of street wear being hoodies and stuff is kinda getting outdated( like im not surprised bliss isn’t in touch with high school/college fashion trends cause how could he be especially since my high school/college experience is gonna different than other peoples) because when i think of streetwear i think of depop, thrifting, and some specific trends are Jnco jeans, y2k, and overall vintage nike and adidas and single stich shirts and stuff along those lines
Anti fashion wear traditional streetwear all the time. Very conservative. Artless. I have some relatives in Singapore but they don't even know that I'm exist. Polyester is is highly flameable, they are experimenting nano tech on textiles now.
People please stop getting caught up in streetwear only being “hoodie and tees”. They’re a lot of details deriving from streetwear, including your oversized fits / some logo techniques / some colour techniques / some trim placements etc…. Just because it’s finished in a suit silhouette doesn’t mean it doesn’t have elements of streetwear.
I think the segment about streetwear is quite disrespectful to some brand built on “hoodies and T-shirts”. If we are thinking logically from a business pov, are they not the most worn category in fashion. Now from fashion pov, I understand the new generation have saturated these products however historically the hoodie and tshirt are blank canvas’s for storytelling for a lot of creatives. With any products they are levels to it. Shape, fabric, palette, trims, construction etc. Hoodies and T-shirts also doesn’t translate as “fast fashion” because they’re hardly made in the cheapest fabric “poly”. Just like anything they’re different levels of fabric including cotton. But I’m sure you know all of this.
Funny, I also had a gut reaction to that segment. I agree with you! The claim that streetwear = hoodies and t shirts, therefore it's fast fashion misses the nuance that fashion/style is capable of.
Join the Patreon or I’ll find you and ask you again in person 👀
Ooo I love visitors! 😅
Hey bro, 100% sincere honest question. Are you okay? Your vibe/mood seemed noticeably low and perhaps a little bummed out?
We appreciate you man! Ive learned a lot from you.
Remember, nothing stays bad forever!
Holy shit that quote about getting into creative arts because you have good taste, then hate your early stuff BECAUSE you have good taste just blew my mind. I've gone through this with my personal chef side business. The thought of taking on clients and knowing you'll F up and under-deliver sometimes was paralyzing. But you can only blow past that with more consistent work. If you actually DO suck at it, you'll know. Otherwise you just keep going up. That counts for any creative work, for sure.
In politics, still valid ;)
absolutely prefer the long 'ramble' format deep/dive of answering questions - but happy to support whatever makes producing content each week, more sustainable/enjoyable.
Good to know, thank you 💫💫
About the streetwear topic I think is more about clothing brands that are making attire for street/public spaces group activities. Skate is one of the biggest things that definied, but every city will have street wear based in his local culture, can be vogue, surf, local music activities, for me in brasil can be pagode or funk.
Is very third space oriented.
My question made it into a Bliss Foster video. I can die happy now
Live...there are way better things about to happen to u
@@GenesisGunnyou are a good person i hope for abundance for all
I think what would be considered street wear these days are brands that wouldn't call themselves street wear. They're DIY brands made by a single person or produced in small runs because that's all they can produce. The clothes are modeled or worn by mostly their friends or figures in local alternative scenes. The term Streetwear has changed to exactly what you described. In LA, I can name 10-20 brands that are local but all make the same types of clothing. Boxy graphic tees, sweatpants, basic sweaters (sometimes boxy). They're trying to replicate those before them (Supreme, FTP, Bape, Fuct). While these clothes are what you'd normally see in the street, it usually fails to capture that DIY and rebellious nature of those personal brands that continue the original mentality of Streetwear
I agree. Streetwear as we knew it once was about expression. Creating something that you and your friends can relate to. If it so happened that it became popular enough where they could make a really good living out of it was a bonus.
Nowadays, all that passion is gone, there is no sense of uniqueness, it just seems to be about money and fame, for the most part. No rebellion in that.
@@balazs7235 - My approach, precisely. I simply make what I want, if people like it? cool. However, there’s always the people around who emphasize money. Sad thing is, explaining to them is pointless because people rarely have the means/time to pursue their passions.
Can you make an extended video discussing the first question, What Ever Happened to Streetwear? It would be interesting to hear your opinion (and history/facts) on the rise and fall of streetwear.
It became mainstream and co opted by the rich and luxury. When people started mixing high fashion with streetwear it lost its meaning. Virgil was right when he said streetwear is dead since most people can’t even define it anymore.
Kinda ironic bc Virgil definitely helped speed up that process
For me. when it comes to insecurity about wearing what you like in public is doing it slowly. Starting out with a shoe or accessory, maybe something underneath a coat so it shows halfway. Then over time wearing more and more of the pieces you love at the same time as you grow more comfortable.
Also doing it with people you feel comfortable with. Or testing it full out at an event you feel comfortable at!
I really like it when you "go on and on and on" answering questions! I personally prefer it over the lightning round style :)
Thanks for the feedback 💫💫
bliss, if im being honest i need more of your deeply thought through videos. The way you DEEPLY dive into meaning and art is what every single content creator lacks. Those videos are REAL content, not just content for enjoyment but makes me think for weeks. I know that they require immense amount of research and time but they are so extremely valuable and those of us like me, deeply appreciate it. I need this, many of us do. and I know you do Q and A because it generates the most views and I am happy for you because you deserve that. Best of luck brother, you're the most authentic creator ive seen by far, somebody who has a passions and just wants to share it. Thank you
"Its normal for it to take a while"
Exactly what I needed to hear. Like its channeled! Trying to get a tattoo apprenticeship and, man, this shit takes time and a lot of networking
‘The quality of the garment is the design’!!!!!!
Also love the notion of sampling from as many different brands as you can. Do you also consider potential resale value when buying an item of clothing?
Your channel is huge for learning about more designers. I’m curious about your process for identification.
This advice is excellent. It transcends fashion and could definitely be applied to life in a lot of ways. This is my first Bliss Foster video but I can already say that I am definitely a fan. Very refreshing.
Don’t got much 2 say just love your vids. Your channel acts like a bridge between my understanding of execution and the concept behind them. i.e. I can make tuff fits/confident in my taste so far but you provide fashion lore so it’s not just “shirt jacket pants” to me and I understand why & can expand on it. Lol I’m yapping but ur dope
Great video Mr. & Mrs. Bliss Foster! I think that it was in the 90's when Streetwear was showcased as a major section in the garment industry the sad thing is that then many brands went the aspirational/coveted clothes route and jacked up prices. Funny thing in Fashion is that everyone is after what is new, but new with status attached to it. Thank you Bliss & Daniella for all the great content you guys make and share in this wonderful channel!
Every single video is quality. Looking forward to seeing you in Paris this week
Supreme is not streetwear. Fast fashion is not streetwear. Small independent brands are the new streetwear, upcycling is streetwear.
I’ve noticed this also. I guess my point is that terms aren’t very useful if the definition is changing this fast. What do you think?
yea! exactly we go out in public to be seen so much more rarely now a days and at least where i live i feels like everyone ( not just the well off or fashionable) feel much more deliberate about what your wearing out even just a year ago people wearing pajamas and slippers down to the shops was so common but i cant remember when it changed but no one does that anymore and yea so much more vintage and preloved clothing being worn proudly
Except the gag is streetwear was literally created by lower class Black people in the 80’s (from the literal streets) who were already wearing fast fashion. Streetwear is holes in your jeans. It’s Nikes with whatever baggy shirt from an Asian corner store and cool accessories you can get anywhere. It can be fast fashion, and it could be supreme. Black people & urbanites that followed them back in the day didn’t care about quality or price they cared about brands. They’d get a knockoff Gucci shirt from the flea market and made it work with old basketball shorts & converse they got from their older brothers.
This is why I don’t like the discussion of streetwear today, y’all have turned it into a luxury trend for rich people who spend stupid amounts of money on “‘quality clothing”” all to pretend they’re from the hood but “”sleek”’ when it originally that was never the case. Small independent brands charge that stupid amount because capitalism and upcycling/thrifting, something that used to be cheap and available to the poor, has now become such a hot trend online that sellers and even Goodwill of all places price gouge. Honestly, any working class person who wears fast fashion streetwear is doing it right. That’s literally how it started.
@@cheyennec5546YUPPPP
@@cheyennec5546this is the best comment in this thread.
I’m think capitalism got to it.
Because the new communist fashion line is such a killer success 😂
well yes because all fashion houses engage in some sort of capitalism? what a nothing burger of a comment. i mean im not a fan of capitalism but the business of fashion has always been very capitalistic lets be for real
neoliberal ideology got it. Exponential growth for no reason means exponentially more clothing and consuming exponentially more of them.
I think the concept you’re looking for is consumerism.
no literally
Thanks for the Stephanie Schneider recommendation. Beautiful work.
She’s awesome, love her work
thanks for your channel man i wish i had this 15 years ago when i first started working in fashion it woulda been great
i believe true streetwear should always have a personal connection in each piece and a sense of necessity while still being artistically informed.
whether thats a handmade touch or a graphic that warrants an emotional response directly from the ethos of the designers inspiration.
i dont like how people try to steal narratives because their "high fashion" concepts dont really work in the industry so they bulldoze actual streetwear designers and change the narrative.
Nice! I subscribed and prolly gonna watch everything on this channel
I kind of disagree with your poly take. I used to think the same until I actually invested in high-end athletic compression wear. Sure thats a different use case than daily wear but it made me reconsider my black and white opinions on polyester
i love ure videos i never got more exited about fashion and what actually matters in it driven by passion and honesty
"Is that appropriate and okay?" You guys really are a team huh?
I appreciate people who value the opinion of their friends, partners (business or otherwise) etc. It shows maturity and a level of wisdom
Daniella and I are each others’ confidants :) we’re both external processors so we have a lot of back and forth 💫💫
@BlissFoster that's so dope honestly! Friends, true friends like that are one of the few things that make life worth living
you are so right about the quality. The other day a wannabe (?) fashion influencer talked about a woven knit she had on. You can sell people ANYthing if they know so little about clothes and the fabric they are made of. This knowledge used to be essential before fast fashion, because you wanted your clothes to last.
I’m going to join your patreon. I adore your videos and all the hard work put into it.
i think LVMH’s sale of Off White this week says it all about where streetwear is going
I think your audience would love a video "top 50 unknown/lesser fashion designers/brands you should know".
This way you can group them in one video, and or make a small series of videos about these people and their work.
And if you feel like this would be a good idea: Please consider adding links to each ones website, socials or other ways to connect with them so we might support their work.
For the 3rd question, I’m a painter and lots of my peers think I grow fast. The only reason is because each piece is just building onto a lego tower. Use pieces to learn a specific skill or technique and apply it to the next piece but in a different context. One piece was a head spilling over like a cup and the next was a head spouting lava. A completely different concept just changing the direction and force of the action! I’m sure this applies to all art forms such as fashion!
Maybe I have just been lucky, but I love the few pieces I have purchased that are 100% polyester. I recently picked up a Sies Marjan poly shirt with a cool iridescence to it. It feels great against the skin and stays cool with the top few buttons undone. I also have a pair of early 00’s Prada poly pants that are warm but create an interesting opportunity to mix things up with winter fabrics.
It’s fun to watch Bliss’s personal style evolve across the channel
dude the geoffrey video was so good can’t wait for the tour
Street wear to me was anything I capture during my street photography runs…which can be anything. 🤔 I guess mixing anything and everything along with any diy styling.
While I can’t really afford some of the smaller brands you’ve mentioned in previous videos, I am starting to envision what pieces go with my wardrobe and being more intentional with what I consider buying.
I'm kind of of two minds fashion wise: on one hand I kind of want to focus on long term wear, where you might change the laces or repair the soles, but generally the same pair of shoes might serve someone for at least twenty years. Things like modular design concepts, where parts are replaceable, yet sturdy like work boots.
On the other, I'm finding myself increasingly drawn to Costume Design for broadway musicals more specifically. Or even what I call "Broadway Casual", it looks formal by the average trip to the movie theatre or to the beach, but it's relatively informal, even for lack of a better word "trashy" as an aesthetic choice.
Edit: There is also the fact that I'm more of a traditional artist ( soft pastels and sumi painting ) yet I heard fashion illustration is going the way of digital these days.
I don’t really think those two concepts are as at odds as you think they are, like considering how the costumes worn during broadway shows need to go through potentially years of being danced around in night after night the theatricality and the practical durability are a match made in heaven
it's fun watching Bliss's videos because my instagram always gets mad at me for following too many accounts at once
Streetwear was never real. None of the subcultures or groups who initially defined the codes or wore them called what they wore “streetwear” (or considered it that) - for example if they skated and wore signifiers of skating they were simply skaters, and so on and so on. Streetwear therefore is best understood as a sellable simulacrum of a range of discrete, urban subculture signifiers. It’s no surprise that it eventually collapsed in a heap as it had no foundation outside of being abstracted transactional value - which was mainly driven by hype culture and the exploitation of niche groups, impoverished peoples and sweatshop labour. In many ways I think streetwear could be considered the ultimate capitalist mode of clothing.
Great comment, I completely agree with your point about collapse without real foundations
Absolutely. Even how hoodies, t-shirts, pants are designed makes it very easy for mass manufacturing (straight lines, synthetic fibers etc).
godDAMN! "sellable simulacrum" goes hard
would you really say that about Bape and Supreme in say 1999 ??? or even 555 soul?
@@alphadream953 Yes. I think most of the "streetwear" brands, even if (supposedly) well-meaning, failed to understand the economic system they were situating themselves within or they did and didn’t care. Once again it’s not about the specific niches/subcultures which were forcibly combined together under the false umbrella of streetwear but instead this generic overarching concept which contains no genuine culture or meaning outside of the desire to generate capital.
I do love black, but black has been ruined for me. It was the dress code for every workplace I had. I don't want to look like I work for every retail store, restaurant, or apartment complex. Which means, the black I own has to be ornate or so sexy, it'd be inappropriate to wear in daylight. Daytime me and nighttime me are two different people. I'm trying to join them together, but haven't found the secret to that yet.
Speaking of fast fashion brands trying be more "fashion". What do you think about those companies collaborating with designers? For example Zara and Studio Nicholson or H&M H2 (Heron Preston Collab).
Lately I have been wearing clothes that make me feel good about myself more so than before but that has also been getting me a lot of unwanted attention when I'm at a bus stop or in a shop. I don't want to change my style because of some sleazy old men but it feels like I have no other choice. Have you ever experienced this? And if so, how did you deal with it?
Great video
I am in the gap rn and it’s been driving me crazy. I have been lazy tho so it’s great advice.
The jump from Lifestyle to high fashion seems like everest with no shoes lol WHats a good list of people that made that jump? Also do you think it's important to seek out getting more pr? if so what's good advice to seeking that.
For me streetwear came from a social class and a place so called the “ghetto” but with time the higher class started to get interested in this style and it’s why now we have high price Nike shoes and all those things
They took the street out of it the culture. My opinion.😀
12:58 one note on the cheaper-desginer-pricing:
Look for smaller brands! Lot's of brands price for DTC (direct to consumer) before approaching Retailers, where the price could skyrocket
I'll give an example as to why:
DTC Pricing:
- Production Cost: $50
- Mark Up to Customer: 3x (can be lower, but is obviously necessary to make money)
--------------------------------
- Final Price: $150
Selling to Retailer pricing:
- Production Cost: $50
- Mark up to Retailer: 2x (this is because the brand is literally selling the product to the retailer, who then has to decide what to do with it)
- Retailer's Markup: 2x (this is necessary for the retailer to make money off what they buy from the brand)
------------------------------------
- Retailer pays: $100
- Final Price: $200
The 2x-2x markup for retailers is incredibly common, and the brand shouldn't offer lower prices on their own site/stores (specifically for DTC purchases) because that would undercut the retailers and muddle the brand reputation, or the retailer's.
Also consider that if the brand switched focus from DTC to Retailer's, they're receiving less money per-product, often times a lot less. So if they cannot invest in flagship stores, independent marketing, or general DTC necessities, they have to work with retailers.
So, anyways, shop DTC brands. Supreme, for example, only does DTC. Not tying to put you onto Supreme LOL but a good example of how DTC can keep quality high, and prices low. But once you try to expand into retail, you basically have no choice but to raise prices.
Also wanted to reply again and say I agree: that price point is often the scammer price point. The entirety of Nordstrom is this pricepoint, as far as I've been able to tell.
The tailors on Savile Row told me that they use polyester instead of silk (even on top-tear suits) because of durability
Ive been meaning to make a video on this topic,, cause I was wondering about the same thing. it felt like it died with Virgil
i kinda like how the color temp changes mid sentence lol 8:50
As a designer how can I enhance my style for women.
Hanging on every word, Bliss
I feel like your answer to the streetwear question is valid but also a horrific and sad answer. You undoubtedly know more about fashion and its history than I do so I won’t go through the PowerPoint presentation of streetwear, culture, hip hop etc. but as a whole it feels like the entire industry was cannibalized by greed as well as large design houses. I remember one year, looking through what every major luxury fashion brand was coming out with and most of it was overrated, overpriced, copies of streetwear. It didn’t feel rebellious or interesting. It felt sleazy.
And it sucks because I liked seeing people modify their clothes growing up; cutting shoes so hat they could still fit in them, drawing and printing shirts, taking a hoodie and a jacket and making something different out of it. That to me is streetwear. It’s people being creative with what they got. But fast fashion crap, and now even luxury brands, just mass market and sell what looks like streetwear and it’s sold out of convenience. That hoodie isn’t striking or unique anymore. It’s just a convenient hoodie. And most people don’t really read or know about fashion, so they get taken advantage of and it’s all in the name of he all mighty dollar. Streetwear will survive. But it needs to adapt to protect itself from greedy leeches.
I follow the Yohji-esque philosophy on material/draping/shape of black garments
Wow, as someone that works in fashion, I enjoyed watching this, and agree with everything you’re saying!
I wouldn’t tell anyone not to start selling t shirts and sweatpants what if they end up learning more about fashion and evolve?
Miami/Broward are still streetwear meccas imo
just name the video what it issss pleeeeaaaseee im begging
The fashion student who loves storytelling should consider pursuing costume design in the film industry.
Streetwear is looks that are put together by people outside fashion. In the 70s to eighties poor kids wore tracksuits because sportswear was not fashion and so was cheap and it was durable and comfortable. They wore shoes without laces because they might be hand-me-downs that are slightly small. When they made money they wanted people to know so they bought rings and chains. Yes, I know I just described one specfic look but its the same principle whether its hiphop or skaters. A design house making streetwear is a contradiction.
2:03 "The Discord" we are getting old without realising it.
i have accepted that we will never see daniella in a video, but can we see more of her wardrobe or outfits?
Tough to get out of the T-shirt/hoodies/fast fashion box when streetwear is MEANT to be accessible to both underprivileged creators and consumers.
It’s like critiquing rappers for having a low bar of musical talent. There’s gonna be the occasional rare talent that gets put on by the industry (and then make stuff happen that’s inaccessible to the non-mainstream audience), but most artists in that genre will not.
Affliction is my favorite brand
Fashion is the quality of the clothes, fashionability is the quality of the person
Bliss is the only other person I've seen talk about doublet or Charles Jeffery or just stuff I've never heard of but have maybe seen on SSENSE he got his finger on the pulse of the little guys.
I personally see streetwear as fashion you wear for no occasion other than joy. it not for any particular event of occasion
funny how in some things we like things that are fast, like 100 yard dash for example. yet other things fast can be considered lower quality. how does that work?
I’m sick of seeing hoodies sale for $1000 bucks and other crap
myself i like the longer answers
Comment on the storytelling question:
Clothing design IS story telling.
If you want to design clothes without telling stories, you're actually looking for a more specific facet than not.
For example: if you work in construction, the "story" is "this garment must be good for construction". Arguably still story telling, but the person working in construction making clothes for construction, well, they work in construction, not Fashion. It just so happens what they need to make is clothing.
The difference between Rick Owens and Carhartt is not quality, it's story telling.
(in fact if it were quality, the Carhartt would be likely to win out by any measurable means)
I've been wondering Bliss, even if it might be a long shot. As a photographer & videographer that lives in Istanbul, but comes to Europe mainly Milan every year or so. Is there a way we can work together? As in is there an occasion in which you are in need of a photographer or a videographer?
Hi! Thanks so much for the offer! We haven’t needed one yet, but I’ll let you know if that changes 💫💫
Street wear - what folks wear out & about = general answer. Street wear = outfits joyously put together by individuals who strongly believe that clothes are artistic self-expression = modern interpretation.
Just curious, why as little black as possible?
It makes lighting a shot difficult 😅
13 year old me would say it's any clothing brand that collabs w both vans and nike pertually
Bliss, to me what you're wearing is street style. It's an individuals unique mix of well loved clothing pieces. It may be wearing a pair of Rick Owens furry Birkenstocks with a beloved North Beach Leather Moto jacket and an R13 dress with a tote bag from the Row. And, maybe toss on a hoodie if there's a chill in the air. If there's a cool mix of proportions or play with materials all the better. Maybe the hoodie is made of silver sequins. Maybe, Rick's furries are tossed off and a pair of MiuMiu engineer boots are thrown on and left unbuckled or a favorite pair of vintage Ann Demeulemeester boots are pulled on. It's in the mix. None of the pieces need to be poor quality or fast fashion. Better if they're not. A well made 100% cotton t-shirt is a lifer. :)
Hi casual viewer here. Maybe throw the new designers in the your keywords?
Great idea, and welcome in! How did you discover the channel?
if you're a person who gets grubby in your life should you wear designer clothes?
Love these videos and I respect the fact that 'fashionable' is subjective. I have never ever liked how Bliss clothes fit him or how he puts them together. I do love his knowledge and all his vids though
I joined the Patreon how can I join the discord ? 🙏
Shoot me a message on Patreon and we’ll get you sorted 💫💫
guilty of not clicking for new designers unless they are truly eco
No hoodies. No. Honey no. Never. Please let’s have some modicum of decorum.
Meant as a constructive piece of feedback: I stopped watching your videos a while ago and I did so with great regret. I found myself building up excitement and expectations based on the often very interesting titles and then finding the videos to be about a seemingly random set of viewer questions each of which was getting 30 seconds to a couple of minutes of commentary. I'd much rather watch the full, deep-dive video about whatever happened to Streetwear and your personal take, as I value you as a creator and expert on fashion and come to your content for your unique opinion. Food for thought.
hugsies, fellow grumpy bear!
t-shirt and sweats can look sharp in hipster way. but hey i'm from cali
STREET WEAR IS OPIUM AESTHETIC !
Now i have to see bliss in a “streetwear” fit😂
I got some old supreme fits documented somewhere 👀
I’ll have to dig them up and post them on IG for a laugh 😅
Cant run in that necklacerchief. Would hurt being hit in the teeth for sho.
i do love your content and you're clearly knowledgable about fashion, but.......what are these fits bruh
Who are the Fast Fashion companies?
Any brand that thinks they can sell a dress for less than $100.- for sure. H&M, Zara, Shein, Forever21, Primark, Temu. But then also more expensive brands who just put their branding on a shitty t-shirt to sell as mercy like Gucci. Sure, gucci has good things too, but their t-shirts definitely count as fast fashion in my eyes
*merch
I would also count brands who think that a good real cashmere sweater can cost less than $600.- to that list. I know cashmere is all the rage at the moment but there are simply not enough cashmere goats in the world to justify a cheaper price. I don't know where all of this fake cashmere is coming from!
lowk i feel like that definition of street wear being hoodies and stuff is kinda getting outdated( like im not surprised bliss isn’t in touch with high school/college fashion trends cause how could he be especially since my high school/college experience is gonna different than other peoples) because when i think of streetwear i think of depop, thrifting, and some specific trends are Jnco jeans, y2k, and overall vintage nike and adidas and single stich shirts and stuff along those lines
New streetwear is bleak! Even more clout brained than the last generation.
Anti fashion wear traditional streetwear all the time. Very conservative. Artless. I have some relatives in Singapore but they don't even know that I'm exist. Polyester is is highly flameable, they are experimenting nano tech on textiles now.
Street wear is jeans t shirts sneakers flip flops etcetc
Streetwear is like any other trend, it eventually goes away for twenty-thirty years and then comes back in a new way
👍🙂🙂
People please stop getting caught up in streetwear only being “hoodie and tees”. They’re a lot of details deriving from streetwear, including your oversized fits / some logo techniques / some colour techniques / some trim placements etc…. Just because it’s finished in a suit silhouette doesn’t mean it doesn’t have elements of streetwear.
I think the segment about streetwear is quite disrespectful to some brand built on “hoodies and T-shirts”. If we are thinking logically from a business pov, are they not the most worn category in fashion. Now from fashion pov, I understand the new generation have saturated these products however historically the hoodie and tshirt are blank canvas’s for storytelling for a lot of creatives. With any products they are levels to it. Shape, fabric, palette, trims, construction etc. Hoodies and T-shirts also doesn’t translate as “fast fashion” because they’re hardly made in the cheapest fabric “poly”. Just like anything they’re different levels of fabric including cotton. But I’m sure you know all of this.
Funny, I also had a gut reaction to that segment. I agree with you! The claim that streetwear = hoodies and t shirts, therefore it's fast fashion misses the nuance that fashion/style is capable of.
Streetwear happened to streetwear. 🤔
Let's not ask and pretend it never happened 😂