I have it on my bucket list I'm leaning to the idea that even if it doesn't seem relevant right now, having some idea on why fashion designers do what they do make help me with televsion writing and webcomic creation.
I would like you to bring up problem of ethics in fashion. There are ethical brands like Ewa Minge and Koijma (they sew out of natural fibers, pay their workers well and respect them. But a lot of luxury brands are using sweatshops. Hermes, LV, Gucci, Armani, Chanel and Versace
As a current fashion design student, I hate how we’re presented with the industry with “that’s just how it is.” They teach us its a problem overproducing and being unsustainable, but then in the same breath tell us we should be making a collection a week. Schools need to realize they should be teaching new students to be able to change the industry, not just fit into it and nothing happen. They complain that trends that used to last for years are now micro trends, while at the same time telling us to design exclusively for the year and season.
As someone who likes making historical/fantasy clothes for myself, that is neigh incomprehensible to me. How are you supposed to create something that actually looks nice so quickly? The saying is quality over quantity, and you’d think that should be important in ‘high fashion’
"Schools need to realize they should be teaching new students to be able to change the industry, not just fit into it and nothing happen." The problem is that schools don't know *how* to change the industry. I have a fine arts degree, and went to school in NYC, so I had a lot of opportunity to see the heights of the professional fine art industry in person. Schools have so little influence on what it looks like that they barely bother to even reach you how it works. If you want to change the fashion industry, you need an education in economics, not design.
@@RamadaArtist I'd argue that economics is how we got into this mess. Treating clothing and design as a source for profit created fast fashion, and ramped it up. We need to sway the cultural perception of clothing as a commodity and consumable product before we can change the industry. As it stands people consider slow fashion too expensive, because it's a higher up front cost. You're not going to change that with a degree in economics.
I love that you are bring up this ultimate topic of sustainability… fashion has become a black hole 🕳️ vortex for everyone but especially the designers and the planet. Let alone the the manufacturers…It’s all just too much, too fast to even appreciate the wonder of the clothes produced each season… then fast fashion copies it and that’s where all the real environmental & psychological damage is done! Time to say enough: 2 collections per year is absolutely all we need!! ❤️🤩
This breaks my heart, I originally went to university for fashion design, was told by my professor the day before we couldn’t change classes that I was “too soft hearted to handle the pressure of the industry” I’ve been pattering and designing alternative fashion since I was nine, I didn’t want to stop making things, so I switched to art; and now I’m given more lenience to create clothing in a space that wasn’t even intended for it. Honestly I’ve probably learned more too, I hope people who have a passion for making things still reach out to do so, even if in spite of an industry that’s killing it’s own designers
I imagine sooner or later we'll see a strong counter-culture scene to combat it as we've seen in other art forms, though it seems like it's been harder for outsiders to break into than, say, music
I literally had like 3 or 4 classmates kind of crash my counselor appointment because we were all from the same program and we all wanted to drop out xD It was the costumers, niche alt fashion, and plus size students who had been laughed at by our teachers that dropped that day. It was great. 🙃
Agreed. I used to watch a fashion youtuber who said this about 70% of the things he critiqued and reading the comments, the audience sounded even more jaded...
We are being overfed, we literally need less fashion. Everyone needs to be harsher on designers that churn, and kinder to those that improve on something existing.
it’s a destruction of their own making. these big companies drove this toxic consumer habit of wanting something new every moment that they’re now tripping on their own heels trying to keep up with the very problem they themselves started 😂
@@coolman000099WILL LEAD TO?? What do you think happened with Lee McQueen and John Galliano? The industry is soul crushing in their demands for quantity and creativity. Hey Chanel and Dior, get yourselves a Robot to crank out the designs😃!!
@@BlissFosterPerhaps, but what about the environmental and human cost of fast fashion? Hundreds of thousands of tons of cloths in landfills or dumped in poor countries in Africa and huge numbers of people working in sweatshop conditions for a pittance. That is the dark underside of fast high fashion and its many imitators at the middle and low end of the market.
oh boy I’ve got things to say. I work as a designer in the biggest shoes company in Brazil, literally the biggest, in income and also in options for the buyers. We as a team, do the normal calendar for the biggest collections, but in top of that, there are other collections that we are making in between. not going in details here but the point is: WE MAKE A COLLECTION EVERY MONTH. every single month there’s a new trend, a new color, a new (really?) way of making the shoe. it’s impressive how the market works, because the sells are happening, but the cost in mental health for literally every designer in this company it’s EXPENSIVE. no one is doing alright here, but we just keep on going to the next collection!
This suddenly brings context to all the different shoes that have a huge price tag but are so hideously ugly people wonder how it ever got off the drawing table.
@@samsalamander8147 They're probably talking about Alpargatas, a company with other shoe brands in their possession and the biggest in Brazil. This year the company managed to be the leader even in Latin America! Melissa is a brand of Grendene, so Melissa's not (technically) a shoe company, just a brand. Grendene is in 2nd :D. I hope it helps!
from a stylist's persective, it would be a challenge but so creatively rewarding to just show once per year. the layering opportunities would be endless 🎉
I love the latest Ralph Lauren collection because it's just beautiful clothes. Of course, it's an established label that doesn't need to prove anything, but I still think it could be a role model because at the end of the day, we just want beautiful clothes. I think when you look at the collections today, they do feel like the designers have suffered to make them so it's much more fun to look at vintage fashion shows. I'm not sure if the designers can change the system that's putting so much pressure on their creativity, but it needs to be changed.
@@cinemaocd1752 Yes! I think old designers learned from history whereas new designers learn from each other. I'd take Vivienne Westwood's advice and head straight to a museum for some inspo.
@@iloveazaeliabanks Demna's designs really look like what we used to wear in a cold storage plant. I keep wondering why would western elites want to look like eastern european poor.
You know what's confusing to me about fashion is that they display a lot of the clothes you can't even wear on a daily basis or an event occasions like a parties. Isn't the objection suppose to be showcasing what clothes are going to be available in stores? If not wouldn't it be a tremendous waste of materials?
Yeah i dont get it, its like they have shut the doors and youst make wierd stuff. For me litteraly 90% of the things looks like thrashbags taped together. Or when they took sleeping bags and sewed them together and called it fashion, so freaking wierd. Youst take this guys pants, they prassel and look like a thrash bag, wtf who would wear something like that lol.
@@blackvirgo09 Okay that must add the already added pressure to the show, it's rather unfair to expect a designer to come up with new concepts in every fashion week.. I could only imagine how taxing that must be for their creativity.
Pretty sure fashion shows the past century have always been exaggerated versions of the clothes they are going to sell. It's like "this is what we are going for, but of course this is not easy to wear, so the store product is gonna be made more practical"
I have started to love high fashion because it inspires me about what fantasy characters might look like. It's kinda like costume design in some sense.
I went into this kinda wary bc of the assumption you'd just be another RUclipsr shitting on fashion without any knowledge of how the industry works, but instead I got a comprehensive look of how flawed the industry is especially for newcomers, from someone who clearly has both knowledge, sympathy, and passion
real og fashion designer here; we as a collective presented a collection wasting 0 extra liters of waters for our mostly hand-sewn runway and it's true. there is designers just using blender plugins and sending it to their manufacturers and then there is artisanal artist similar to MMM still out there! if you dont believe me then that is totally fine with me.
We're not waiting for every musician to drop a new album 4 times a year, not even every years, not even every 3 years...! Creation needs TIME! Thank you Bliss for your work. But for you, we are waiting for a drop every week ;)
no clue why I was recommended your channel. i know nothing about fashion. you are hilarious and extremely entertaining and I will absolutely be watching more.
Welcome in! If I could recommend your next video, the reeeally good ones are the ones where we can spend a lot of time on a single runway show. If you have time, check out Prada: Fascism and Fashion Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal and Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023 Again, welcome in! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments as you check out more videos 💫💫
I just finished a coat which took me nine months between conception, design, sewing and embellishments. And I didn't have to design the textiles. (I use vintage and second-hand textiles.) .. Art Takes Time!
I’m a physics student, I have zero connection to the fashion industry. But I whole heartedly agree. Ever since I watched The Devil Wears Prada, when I was about 15-ish, I’ve had a great appreciation for the fashion industry. Fashion can be extravagant without losing form, style, class, etc. And there’s also nothing wrong with designers having a core style or spirit, and experimenting and/or refining it. Fashion is meant to be worn, so the designers out there making stuff people wouldn’t be caught dead in, just to be unique and quirky is nuts. I mean look at Lagerfield, his style is iconic, but its also defined and whilst his work can easily be told apart from each other, you can tell its his for a simple reason, he sticks to a core style.
You're preaching to the choir on this one, I love when designers like Thebe Magugu go at their own pace and time frame it just shows more care and quality is taken into consideration especially from a creative stand point breaks are necessary in order to keep going
I would be all for this, I work as a hairstylist in the fashion industry and it would give us so much more time to think about and prep some really gorgeous looks if we weren’t having to do it every 3 months
I was just thinking of this, and not just in fashion. Our modern world is forcing to produce and consume at break neck burnnout speed.... We're not appreciating anything... Speaking as a tired prints pattern designer.
Who exactly is forcing you to do what? The last piece of clothing I purchased was hiking shorts with zipper pockets half a year ago. The only thing that "forced" my hand there was gravity.
I love you bliss, with all my heart. I’m soo very confused myself if or not to continue as a fashion designer. I have always loved fashion, when I was on outsider. Getting into this industry, gave me a lot of perspective, i came to the understanding of how demanding and sadly toxic the industry is for someone who makes clothes for the love of CLOTHES
It seems to me like any fields involving arts and passion are toxic. Gaming industry is also the same -- a lot of crunch time and low pay and getting laid off when the project ends. Everybody has like multiple side gigs to make ends meet.
Stay independent as a designer and follow your passion the way you're called to. I had an eco line and then went off grid literally for a dozen years to develope my craft in nature, now I'm ready to come back and have no regret staying my ground. Best wishes and lots of creative happiness to you ❤️
Thanks Bliss for providing an assurence to the young fashion designing students like me, who hates this systems of new collection every 3 months! Artistry in any medium needs time for sure! The more time given, the more refined will be the outcome!
Bliss is one of the best fashion critics or vloggers on RUclips. You can tell he loves fashion, not because it's trendy, but from a design and craftsmanship level.
ngl this is part of why I’m now focusing on illustration in school rather than fashion. the pace was too fast, the rules too unclear, and the pressure unnecessarily high. illustration isn’t easy either but overall it’s a much friendlier environment and this way I get to explore fashion in my own time outside of school
first time viewing your channel, and i'm a complete non-fashion person - love your clear analysis of how corporates dictate the speed and scope of the world we live in to cover up their lack of original thoughts and then both drowns out new voices and ideas, and impoverishes the world we all live in. impressive stuff.
I am not big in to fashion, but that explains a lot why I see so much of weird designs, when there is nothing new to discover anymore and pressure is real.
fashion as an industry does seem to move at a pace, and produce a volume of work, that no one can deal with. i once worked in the same building as a fashion brand and no one ever looked happy running up and down the stairs with samples. I could happily deal with one show a year from Rick Owens.
Excellent topic Bliss Foster it has gotten crazier through the decades! I think it was around the late 80's when Moschino as a brand put out an advertising that was a female vampire with STOP THE FASHION SYSTEM wording. Its a monster created by clothing manufacturers who wants us all to shop for new things constantly.
There’s just too much fashion happening. Even the shows feel to be about spectacle and hype, and not design. There’s so much clutter that none of it feels special. I prefer to look away and focus more on style than fashion.
*Fashion Designers Aren’t Designing Anymore* I 100% agree with that - I can even tell you why - big data, they are increasingly driven by buying trends Buying trends are starting to LEAD the fashion designers rather than the designer lead fashion. Weirdly enough King Charles, when he was Prince Charles, was talking about this with the people who designed his lifetime collection called " the Modern Artisan". They included draw string trousers cos the buying trends demanded it, he hated its inclusion. EDIT >>> You probably mean a different thing - I mean quite literally. Data says "people want blue pockets, do something with blue pockets NOW"
Now I understand why I lost interest in producing fashion and went back to painting 🖌️🎨 Art rules. Fashion is in the 🌑 Thanks Bliss brilliant as always.🎉
as a person who exclusively wears hoodies, leggings, sweatshirts, and sweatpants, high fashion designs look... alien to me. Like I can't imagine an actual human being wearing these incomprehensible art pieces for more than 15 minutes at a time. Are they actually for wearing??
Great question! The craziest pieces have a few options 1. The brand keeps them in storage for future reference 2. It’s sold as a runway sample to a client who collects the brand’s work as art pieces. 3. They do a very small manufacturing run of the item if they believe 5-10 customers will purchase it 4. It’s given as a gift to a celeb/investor/friend/someone the brand owes money to lol You also might be surprised by how normal many of those pieces look on their own. Most of the craziest runway looks are crazy because it’s actually three or four pieces stacked on top of each other. When you take those pieces apart, it’s not quite as insane as it may first look. But that all depends. If you’re new to the channel, could I recommend a video? We have one called *Prada: Fascism and Fashion* that’s really crazy. We get into some pretty insane historical stuff that went overlooked in the 1980s. Thanks for watching, homie 💫💫
tbh i would be so happy to wear wearable art that was functional, i love crazy strange unique designs it's just so unwearable which to me defeats the point
Just one thing I found interesting in what you said was about games having shoestring budgets budgets have increased for development, whilst also games being increase from 60$ to 80$ now, the cost of distribution has also lowered with such small levels of physical media being needed to be produced. I feel like the game industry is in a similar situation to fashion as in corporate sides pushing for overwhelming success no matter what. And I feel like one issue fashion and games as a medium are running into is over scoping. Every publishing studio wants a massive multi billion $ game with player retention, but there aren't enough people to consume the actual product. Especially with the directions of live service games essentially turning into a job in it's self. So many people won't play other games due to sunk cost falecy. In the end art will always been destroyed by the attachment of commercial viability, as it's value emotionally is striped for capital gains.
this, I immediately went "well hang on a second" when he said that. Indie darlings are producing amazing games at and often under $60--worth mentioning too is the monetization systems of AAS games. They charge $60 (or, starting recently, $70) at the door but are nickel and dining players at every turn, before during and after release. I'd say it's nor uncommon for someone to put $90 towards a modern game.
9:30 god damn Bliss thank god you said this. I’ve been going insane pondering why tf do brands not go with this mindset when producing collections.(money obv) there’s too much i 10000% percent believe the whole industry would run better this way
OMG YES!! Your film director analogy ( @9:29) was SPOT ON!! You're 100% right that designers should show once yearly or once every 3 years! I personally think Haute Couture should should only show once a year or once every 18 months!
I'm studying fashion arts and design at college rn; one of my classes is all about sustainable fashion, and my teacher has worked in this field and is really passionate on the topic. I'd say that out of all my classes, we're always being encouraged in this class in particular about how we can change the fashion industry as we enter the workforce and make it more sustainable, and I'm just sitting there like 👁👄👁 bro...I'm not trynna be the next Chanel or St. Laurent, I just wanna learn how to design costumes for stage productions and start my own small business designing people's custom commissions ^_^"
Thanks for talking about such important issues! It’s obviously what we should think about first before criticizing some brands for making no changes. That explains a lot
Yeah kinda feels list fast fashion principles have trickled up somehow. I would love to see fully designer-determined schedules become the norm, like just a couple times a week someone goes "hey a new line from so-and-so just dropped!" I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on what the landscape would look like if fashion week were digital or nonexistent. As someone who has never attended in person, handling releases digitally in the early pandemic made no difference to me and if anything it was a nice change of pace.
just stretch out releases and make room for everyone to shine as there is more room in between shows for other great designers. helps ideas grow, invites innovation, makes the whole bubble a bit more sustainable
It's good when the algorithm throws in something like this. I have absolutely zero interest in what this person is passionate about but it's good to see.
Welcome in! I totally get it, the super artistic side of fashion isn’t for everybody. If you wanted to check out, one other video that might change your mind, we put out one called “Prada: Fascism and Fashion” a while back. It’s one of the best videos we’ve ever made. If you feel like it, give it a look 💫💫
I kinda see the number of collections showed and produced in a year as one complete body of work of the designer and their businesses. It's a matter of timing when and where to release, hence many seasons, collections, and shows. It's overwhelming to complete the whole set for designers. Maybe designers should dare to be more strategic when doing their collection, working on pieces that immune to the fast trend cycle, giving them time to create the next great pieces responsibly.
I have 0 knowledge of fashion. my wardrobe is 'grabs my boyfriends sweats and hoodie' (sometimes I steal my dads stuff too) I haven't bought clothes for myself in like 6 years. except shoes bc mine broke. this video is great. u presented ur thoughts super clearly and even someone like me understood the issue and what your saying. and you did that in 15 mins? thats cool
My absolute favourite designer is McQueen. His clothing is always unique and it’s absolutely beautiful. It’s really easy to recognize his style once you’ve seen a couple of pieces. He’s definitely one of the designers I look up to most. If I ever get the chance to properly design my own clothes (as in, money-wise. Fabric is really expensive), one of my first pieces would definitely be a McQueen piece. Plus they’re wearable! As in, an average person can show up (circumstances of course) and wear his pieces
A similar thing happened with modern art towards the end of the 70s where there was so much one upping and deconstruction of itself that it led to the end of the movement (as we know it today). Everything from art installations with no art, to pieces of music that were just 4 minutes of silence. This too shall pass and it will pick up somewhere else and we can’t know where it will respawn (so to speak)
I quit the industry almost a decade ago. The entire fashion machine was unsustainable, exclusionary and exploitative back then. It's only gotten worse since. I occasionally keep an eye on it and go "thank god I got out when I did". Going to art school made me hate art. And took years to be able heal from it and feel inspired again. Being a textile and fashion designer made me totally opt out of clothes shopping beyond the absolutely necessary... Or want to style clothing anymore, even though that was a huge passion for me as a teen... The whole experience was traumatic - to the point I had a panic attack the last time I saw a picture of the (deeply hypocritical) head of the design school I went to at an unrelated social enterprise presentation for my new career path. They were telling us that design was meant to make lives better... While quoting the guy who presided over trying to force me to quit uni because my head of dept didn't want to do extra paperwork to keep my disabled self safe in the studio... The creative industries as a whole are guilty of a helluva a lot of awful behaviour. But, having worked across multiple disciplines over the last decade. Fashion is one of the worst... Prime example: they literally design more clothes for dogs than disabled folk. And it's battering yourself against a brick wall trying to change it from within right now. Literally nothing has been learned over the last decade - the same issues we were fighting against then are still there now. But eventually it will fully eat itself like the Ouroboros it is, as you said. One of the few things I really found useful about art school was that our lecturer 110% wanted to marry Malcolm Gladwell. And we had to overanalyze "The Tipping Point" and other texts... As a result, it's easy to spot cultural movements early. We are close to, if not already at, the point where fashion cannot go on as it has been. We're at the summit and soon it's going to be a steep slide down into a new wave... And it will be a steep learning curve for those not already planning for it... Overconsumption and the "Shienpocalypse" is a symptom of peak capitalism-driven, profit first, fashion. I'm looking forward to what sustainable, forward thinking fashion in an industry that prizes fair work for fair pay looks like. I'm manifesting the f* outta that future.
Coincidently you released this at almost the exact time Phoebe Philo dropped her long awaited label. I'm curious to see what type of frequency she adopts when releasing new collections, I did read that the next one will follow in Spring of 24' so I can only assume it will be two a year ?
Then again some brands literally just repeat a lot of their work and people call it repetitive…Obviously if you want them to show 5 times a year there is not much roon to change
i think chopova is doing amazing too. they're relatively new in this industry but from the collections so far... i'm obsessed with their works. same goes with simone rocha!
The algorithm has blessed you with outsiders. Greetings. Anyway, as a layman, this seems to be why there was that period of time where it felt like there was literally a dozen fashion events wherein a designer sent just a nude or topless model down the runway. Like "ok I need to generate some hype and I have approximately 11 minutes to imagine and create this look. What are my options. I've got it."
Hmmm Chanel, which is an insane powerhouse and produces wayyyyyyyy too much… does have Looms that get used in studio… they also purchased specialty/family studios that produce their tweed, lace, (Lesage), etc. Also, folks like Fear of God, do their own thing instead of every season. I appreciate that he takes his time. Rick also doesn’t do the 12 collections per year thing either. He’s also on his own schedule. Even Marc Jacob’s has pulled the breaks on his insane production (due to switching management and some financial hiccups ). I just wish it was all more sustainable and not producing more trash.
But Chanel loses in popularity. People only like their vintage stuff. And how greedy they are. They wanted to stop people from selling Chanel stuff second hand by sueing them. Who cares about Nazis
My dad did the electronics and mechanical side for Miss Universe Australia Maria Thattil's dress. And the designer Yeung nearly got sued for copyright for the mechanism to make the dress rotate despite it being different. Sad to see that it broke when the dress was being put on but if that doesn't say anything about the industry then I don't know what will.
Well, those were the analog days. It took longer to develop the film, edit it and distribute it all on foot. Now they do it all electronically and even before then it was turning into something else towards the end of the eighties. Combined with the digital age things are shared much faster. Most things on run ways aren't even really something you can imagine people walking around in. Its ridiculous.
11:40 Well said. I'm not really into fashion, but I do agree with your sentiment. Everything has to be better, faster, more this and that, etc. and at the same time, while some people are "over inventing" stuff, others are afraid to break with an established formular. Like Hollywood movies only relying on big names and actors but not being able to bring something fresh to the table.
i think this phenomenon is affecting most creative fields and just society in general. as the working class dissappears, everyone is scrambling to *anything* to nab some scrap of virality in hopes that they can escape the widening black hole at the bottom of society. but it just gets harder and harder to stand out in a meaningful way, and now we have ai in the mix spitting out shit that humans cant even conceive of at a pace that not even the brightest and most feverish creatives can keep up with.
As a graduate in fashion design I presented this same question as to why we are constantly rushed into making a complete collection every 3 months. Everyone told me that it’s just how it is. The solution is that the consumers need to slow down and turn the industry into “slow fashion” instead of fast fashion. Just like an iPad kid, The consumer constantly want more of it and fast. What we want as a designer is to have enough time to present a collection that is meaningful and that has the best quality possible. Not just the trendy stuff.
Welcome in! If I could recommend your next video, the reeeally good ones are the ones where we can spend a lot of time on a single runway show. If you have time, check out Prada: Fascism and Fashion Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal and Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023 Again, welcome in! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments as you check out more videos 💫💫
I’m so glad someone’s saying shit about this I thought I was going crazy bc I was into the high fashion scene when I was younger then recently got into it again and I’m not gonna act like nothing great hasn’t hit the catwalk in 20 years but I will say it’s much harder to find and the pieces to hit mainstream attention usually just do because everyone has agreed it looks stupid as shit it’s literally the same as watching RUclips and other internet content turn into the clickbait hellhole it is now people making ‘art’ to get more eyes not to actually make something with real value
Not even arguing that the industry should pivot more towards beauty or get less artistically arcane, just a plea for some sanity in sustainable expectations.
Im a game developer that isn't really into high fashion but Im fascinated on learning more about how other industries work. For me fashion seems a bit like the art world, it's either people that complain about how ridiculous, unaffordable and unwearable designer clothes are and how fast fashion is killing the planet or people that live and die for fashion that they seem to live in an alternative reality that the commoners "just don't get". Personally I see a lot of artistry in the making of clothes but I really wonder how many more designers, brands, collections, seasons, fashion shows,etc do we really need in a world where sustainability should really be the priority.
1 other textile development....Chanel - They develop and weave their own haute couture signature boucle "tweed" after yrs of buying from Linton, Maliha Kent...apparently once other designers started using said suppliers...they moved it in house to be more "Unique"? As for following the calendar...Azzedine Alaia only showed when he was ready.
When I was growing up, our children's televisions shows periodically developed some kind of goal requiring material resources and decided to "have a fashion show fundraiser!" to pay for it. This seemed deeply confused about the purpose of a runway and the political economy of playing dress-up.
I don't know why youtube kept suggesting this to me, I have no interest in fashion and know nothing about it but I just gave in and checked it out. I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about but you're probably doing a good job so keep it up.
Something ill point out from a outsiders perspective. I inspect hospital projects for a living. In architecture and industrial design the same thing is happening. Not to the degree of the relentless amount of fashion weeks, but its happening. My theory is that the relentless demand for making more money than the last quarter (accelerationism) has destroyed all nuance and intricacy of everything. You look at the world now and its an artificial shell of its former self. Everything is just that... a shell. Just a coat of paint masking the unbelievable pain we are causing ourselves and nature respectively. I cant predict the future, however i know that there is going to be a monumental change in how humans perceive reality. We have to. The more i live the more crazy i think I am saying such apocalyptic things, but we are playing with powers not fully understood and we will face extinction if balance is not flooded into our collective conscious. This is a war against ourselves and our destructive habits. good luck everyone. Such a shame we are blessed yet we wont use our blessings. NAY they TAUGHT US NOT TO USE THEM. I weep for humanity. Edit: If the mess of words was too much. What im saying is that the same problem the fashion industry has, is the same problem the world has.
Not gonna lie. I would like to have those colorful lizard boots in the thumbnail. It reminds me of AVAVAV frog feet high heels boots. I wanna wear them. And from time to time, those boots cross my mind. Also interesting to imagine a world, where wearing these kinds of fashions is the norm.
Yeah as a Fashion Student i really hate how they are making us work SO MUCH with so little time (making a skirt in two weeks when it takes more time than that). Our teacher says that if we dont do things on time the industry will eat us :/
folks been saying this for years. I've been saying it for less years, because I think derivative creativity is still creativity. ....but we've reached a point where being sloppy isn't running against the grain anymore. it's not challenging or new or even that fun tbh. it's old and tired and done. people no longer want to fight the man. they want to work with the man for a sustainable world because we aren't idiots anymore Edit: PLEASE I NEED THE LIQUID METAL PAAAANTS
I’m a little late to respond to this, but I think the big names need to slow down too. Luxury RTW quality is no longer impeccable, even the Chanels and Diors, who function the best in this system they created, have sacrificed quality at the purchase level to do it. The fact that smaller, younger designers have been able to get end user quality at all is quite miraculous, actually.
Game dev here. The problem in games is not the price point not going up with inflation, it's rich executives hogging all the profit. Most AAA studios have games riddle with microtransactions that bring in a lot of money at the cost of focusing on quality. Game devs consistently get fired by the masses from greedy studios even when profits are high. It's horrible. Game development sorely needs unionization.
I think it should be more like the music industry where an artist will drop an album every now and then, some artists take years, others drop very often, they just release when they have made something special that they deem finished.
As usual, I found this a very insightful video, but I felt one point was in contradiction with what you said in your last one. That brands now too rarely focus on beauty in and of itself, and instead on a "complicated artistic message", while in your last video, (this is a rough paraphrase of the Q and the A) you were asked whether you needed a story or worldbuilding theme when starting a brand, and your answer was that absent that, a new brand was pointless, that we already had enough clothes. Yet doesn't this inevitably lead to fashion that must be a series of artistic messages, perpetuating the themes of the brand, and where shows devoted to beauty in and of itself run counter to that? Not trying to be pedantic here, just trying to figure this out.
I think the “story” or the “worldbuilding” should be understood as beauty philosophy or brand statement instead of giving an artistic message, which is just a part of modern marketing. The sustainable clothing, slow fashion, gender equality in fashion, the beauty and creativity in technically design process itself could be consider as “worldbuilding” and also artistic.
The barriers to entry seem to be increasing at hyper speed. This is likely muffling maximum creativity despite the economic environment that the treadmill the big houses can drive creates. The default back to the manic pace is really surprising considering all of the reflective discourse at the beginning of the pandemic.
Who decides the cadence of the treadmill? The CFDA? I’m confused as to what it will take to change the schedule to just one fashion show/collection per year
"Business compliments the spread of beauty towards the goal of eventually consuming it whole". Fashion is one of many mediums of beauty. So again , business compliments the spread of *fashion* towards the goal of eventually consuming it whole. By "spread of beauty" I mean the connection of fashion to a system of supply and demand . A familiar system of supply and demand for fashion is the fashion show. And while beauty is present at the show an additional goal is also to generate sales that encourage a profit. And because some of us are attracted to the show because of the beauty we have the privilege to be less aware of the business. I have study little of the fashion show because little interest in its spectacle. But I do understand its attractiveness. From my observation it is more business than beauty. And the intersection of both make it difficult to participate in the competitive market of fashion. But this isn't solely the fault of business but the result of business working with our consuming habit. Through the supply and demand system business is trying to fill the belly of fashion consumers. And because we don't like leftovers we need new food. (hopefully I haven't lost you in this metaphor). Fashion show are pressure to do "new" because are consuming habits demand it. So the business works to supply it.
Video games are stuck at a price point because they include less and less content in the core game, and make you buy DLCs instead (which is probably costing more than just adjusting for inflation).
Interesting vlog, I guess my interest in fashion is wrong. I like the extreme designs the more outrageous and experimental the better. I have never been into just the beauty of fashion, I would find that boring.
I will never shut up about Once We Were Warriors out of Amsterdam, the quality is so good and the deisgns are comfortable and fit into casual everyday wear with clean finish to them. Lotus eaters is good too with some cool designs but they rny super plus size friendly
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Join the Patreon or I’ll wash your clothes on *hot* 😈
I have it on my bucket list I'm leaning to the idea that even if it doesn't seem relevant right now, having some idea on why fashion designers do what they do make help me with televsion writing and webcomic creation.
😂 or I'll wash your clothes on hot LMAO
Bro what shirt is that, jawn is flames
I would like you to bring up problem of ethics in fashion. There are ethical brands like Ewa Minge and Koijma (they sew out of natural fibers, pay their workers well and respect them. But a lot of luxury brands are using sweatshops. Hermes, LV, Gucci, Armani, Chanel and Versace
Just another excuse to buy more clothes!
As a current fashion design student, I hate how we’re presented with the industry with “that’s just how it is.” They teach us its a problem overproducing and being unsustainable, but then in the same breath tell us we should be making a collection a week. Schools need to realize they should be teaching new students to be able to change the industry, not just fit into it and nothing happen. They complain that trends that used to last for years are now micro trends, while at the same time telling us to design exclusively for the year and season.
I got lucky that my teachers were all small business owners who advocated for slow fashion
As someone who likes making historical/fantasy clothes for myself, that is neigh incomprehensible to me. How are you supposed to create something that actually looks nice so quickly? The saying is quality over quantity, and you’d think that should be important in ‘high fashion’
Interestingly enough it's a similar story in architecture.
Another design based studies
"Schools need to realize they should be teaching new students to be able to change the industry, not just fit into it and nothing happen."
The problem is that schools don't know *how* to change the industry. I have a fine arts degree, and went to school in NYC, so I had a lot of opportunity to see the heights of the professional fine art industry in person. Schools have so little influence on what it looks like that they barely bother to even reach you how it works.
If you want to change the fashion industry, you need an education in economics, not design.
@@RamadaArtist I'd argue that economics is how we got into this mess. Treating clothing and design as a source for profit created fast fashion, and ramped it up. We need to sway the cultural perception of clothing as a commodity and consumable product before we can change the industry. As it stands people consider slow fashion too expensive, because it's a higher up front cost. You're not going to change that with a degree in economics.
I love that you are bring up this ultimate topic of sustainability… fashion has become a black hole 🕳️ vortex for everyone but especially the designers and the planet. Let alone the the manufacturers…It’s all just too much, too fast to even appreciate the wonder of the clothes produced each season… then fast fashion copies it and that’s where all the real environmental & psychological damage is done! Time to say enough: 2 collections per year is absolutely all we need!! ❤️🤩
Summer can incorporate spring swimsuits etc & winter can incorporate ski wear that’s until global warming means there is no real snow anymore 😵💫😰
I wear the same flannel my grandma gave me 5 years ago.
I‘d argue we don‘t even need one collection a year.
Just wear what you like and designers make what they like when they like and everybody is happy.
@@blacky_Ninja Welcome to corporatization of art, where a yearly sequel is mandatory policy under threat of death.
@@stingerjohnny9951
Thanks, i hate it.
This breaks my heart, I originally went to university for fashion design, was told by my professor the day before we couldn’t change classes that I was “too soft hearted to handle the pressure of the industry”
I’ve been pattering and designing alternative fashion since I was nine, I didn’t want to stop making things, so I switched to art; and now I’m given more lenience to create clothing in a space that wasn’t even intended for it. Honestly I’ve probably learned more too, I hope people who have a passion for making things still reach out to do so, even if in spite of an industry that’s killing it’s own designers
I imagine sooner or later we'll see a strong counter-culture scene to combat it as we've seen in other art forms, though it seems like it's been harder for outsiders to break into than, say, music
Oof.
Glad you weren't hurt by that professor's words. Good luck to you in your career!
me!!! right now omg
I literally had like 3 or 4 classmates kind of crash my counselor appointment because we were all from the same program and we all wanted to drop out xD It was the costumers, niche alt fashion, and plus size students who had been laughed at by our teachers that dropped that day. It was great. 🙃
What is high fashion but a form of highly consumerized art really?
All the time fashionheads critique is “we’ve seen this before 😐🙄” or “this is just like last season, how boring.” We are part of the problem 😂😂😂
Agreed. I used to watch a fashion youtuber who said this about 70% of the things he critiqued and reading the comments, the audience sounded even more jaded...
We are being overfed, we literally need less fashion. Everyone needs to be harsher on designers that churn, and kinder to those that improve on something existing.
You fashionheads. How dare you!
How can fashion be good if it isn't allowed to be shown more than once?
@@cinemaocd1752 hautelemode is soooooo guilty of this i can't even watch him anymore
it’s a destruction of their own making. these big companies drove this toxic consumer habit of wanting something new every moment that they’re now tripping on their own heels trying to keep up with the very problem they themselves started 😂
No no, the big companies can do it no problem. That’s the issue here. The huge companies set a standard that no one else can keep up with 😔
@@BlissFosterI agree, it’s an incredible pace that’ll lead to burn out for the avg person.
@@coolman000099WILL LEAD TO?? What do you think happened with Lee McQueen and John Galliano? The industry is soul crushing in their demands for quantity and creativity. Hey Chanel and Dior, get yourselves a Robot to crank out the designs😃!!
I was just going to respond this....the pace killed McQueen and it drove John G off the rails big time...100% @@Nortongroove
@@BlissFosterPerhaps, but what about the environmental and human cost of fast fashion? Hundreds of thousands of tons of cloths in landfills or dumped in poor countries in Africa and huge numbers of people working in sweatshop conditions for a pittance. That is the dark underside of fast high fashion and its many imitators at the middle and low end of the market.
oh boy I’ve got things to say.
I work as a designer in the biggest shoes company in Brazil, literally the biggest, in income and also in options for the buyers. We as a team, do the normal calendar for the biggest collections, but in top of that, there are other collections that we are making in between. not going in details here but the point is: WE MAKE A COLLECTION EVERY MONTH.
every single month there’s a new trend, a new color, a new (really?) way of making the shoe. it’s impressive how the market works, because the sells are happening, but the cost in mental health for literally every designer in this company it’s EXPENSIVE. no one is doing alright here, but we just keep on going to the next collection!
Is the company Melissa? I love them.
Thanks for your input!
This suddenly brings context to all the different shoes that have a huge price tag but are so hideously ugly people wonder how it ever got off the drawing table.
Do the designs seem forced, or are they constrained to "common sense" fashion?
@@samsalamander8147 They're probably talking about Alpargatas, a company with other shoe brands in their possession and the biggest in Brazil. This year the company managed to be the leader even in Latin America! Melissa is a brand of Grendene, so Melissa's not (technically) a shoe company, just a brand. Grendene is in 2nd :D. I hope it helps!
from a stylist's persective, it would be a challenge but so creatively rewarding to just show once per year. the layering opportunities would be endless 🎉
I love the latest Ralph Lauren collection because it's just beautiful clothes. Of course, it's an established label that doesn't need to prove anything, but I still think it could be a role model because at the end of the day, we just want beautiful clothes. I think when you look at the collections today, they do feel like the designers have suffered to make them so it's much more fun to look at vintage fashion shows. I'm not sure if the designers can change the system that's putting so much pressure on their creativity, but it needs to be changed.
I like RL because it's so clear the historical influence, sometimes it's straight history bounding...
@@cinemaocd1752 Yes! I think old designers learned from history whereas new designers learn from each other. I'd take Vivienne Westwood's advice and head straight to a museum for some inspo.
thats why i love brands like moschino, versace and betsey Johnson just fun and bright sparkles no deeper meaning or anything
@@iloveazaeliabanks Demna's designs really look like what we used to wear in a cold storage plant. I keep wondering why would western elites want to look like eastern european poor.
Ralph lauren polos are >>>>>
I prefer one of those over 10 shein clothing pieces anytime, they're so durable and pretty!
You know what's confusing to me about fashion is that they display a lot of the clothes you can't even wear on a daily basis or an event occasions like a parties. Isn't the objection suppose to be showcasing what clothes are going to be available in stores? If not wouldn't it be a tremendous waste of materials?
No the show is not only for new items it's also for new ideas and the designers to show new technologies
Yeah i dont get it, its like they have shut the doors and youst make wierd stuff. For me litteraly 90% of the things looks like thrashbags taped together. Or when they took sleeping bags and sewed them together and called it fashion, so freaking wierd. Youst take this guys pants, they prassel and look like a thrash bag, wtf who would wear something like that lol.
@@blackvirgo09 Okay that must add the already added pressure to the show, it's rather unfair to expect a designer to come up with new concepts in every fashion week.. I could only imagine how taxing that must be for their creativity.
Pretty sure fashion shows the past century have always been exaggerated versions of the clothes they are going to sell.
It's like "this is what we are going for, but of course this is not easy to wear, so the store product is gonna be made more practical"
I have started to love high fashion because it inspires me about what fantasy characters might look like. It's kinda like costume design in some sense.
I went into this kinda wary bc of the assumption you'd just be another RUclipsr shitting on fashion without any knowledge of how the industry works, but instead I got a comprehensive look of how flawed the industry is especially for newcomers, from someone who clearly has both knowledge, sympathy, and passion
Being a designer, making a collection is extremely hard, i couldn’t imagine 5 in a year for men and women
real og fashion designer here; we as a collective presented a collection wasting 0 extra liters of waters for our mostly hand-sewn runway and it's true. there is designers just using blender plugins and sending it to their manufacturers and then there is artisanal artist similar to MMM still out there! if you dont believe me then that is totally fine with me.
We're not waiting for every musician to drop a new album 4 times a year, not even every years, not even every 3 years...! Creation needs TIME! Thank you Bliss for your work. But for you, we are waiting for a drop every week ;)
no clue why I was recommended your channel. i know nothing about fashion. you are hilarious and extremely entertaining and I will absolutely be watching more.
Welcome in! If I could recommend your next video, the reeeally good ones are the ones where we can spend a lot of time on a single runway show. If you have time, check out
Prada: Fascism and Fashion
Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal
and
Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023
Again, welcome in! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments as you check out more videos 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Woah, I wasn’t expecting a response! Thanks, I will totally check those out! :D
same
I just finished a coat which took me nine months between conception, design, sewing and embellishments. And I didn't have to design the textiles. (I use vintage and second-hand textiles.) .. Art Takes Time!
I’m a physics student, I have zero connection to the fashion industry. But I whole heartedly agree.
Ever since I watched The Devil Wears Prada, when I was about 15-ish, I’ve had a great appreciation for the fashion industry.
Fashion can be extravagant without losing form, style, class, etc. And there’s also nothing wrong with designers having a core style or spirit, and experimenting and/or refining it.
Fashion is meant to be worn, so the designers out there making stuff people wouldn’t be caught dead in, just to be unique and quirky is nuts.
I mean look at Lagerfield, his style is iconic, but its also defined and whilst his work can easily be told apart from each other, you can tell its his for a simple reason, he sticks to a core style.
You're preaching to the choir on this one, I love when designers like Thebe Magugu go at their own pace and time frame it just shows more care and quality is taken into consideration especially from a creative stand point breaks are necessary in order to keep going
I would be all for this, I work as a hairstylist in the fashion industry and it would give us so much more time to think about and prep some really gorgeous looks if we weren’t having to do it every 3 months
I was just thinking of this, and not just in fashion. Our modern world is forcing to produce and consume at break neck burnnout speed....
We're not appreciating anything...
Speaking as a tired prints pattern designer.
Who exactly is forcing you to do what?
The last piece of clothing I purchased was hiking shorts with zipper pockets half a year ago. The only thing that "forced" my hand there was gravity.
I love you bliss, with all my heart. I’m soo very confused myself if or not to continue as a fashion designer. I have always loved fashion, when I was on outsider. Getting into this industry, gave me a lot of perspective, i came to the understanding of how demanding and sadly toxic the industry is for someone who makes clothes for the love of CLOTHES
It seems to me like any fields involving arts and passion are toxic. Gaming industry is also the same -- a lot of crunch time and low pay and getting laid off when the project ends. Everybody has like multiple side gigs to make ends meet.
Stay independent as a designer and follow your passion the way you're called to. I had an eco line and then went off grid literally for a dozen years to develope my craft in nature, now I'm ready to come back and have no regret staying my ground. Best wishes and lots of creative happiness to you ❤️
Thanks Bliss for providing an assurence to the young fashion designing students like me, who hates this systems of new collection every 3 months! Artistry in any medium needs time for sure! The more time given, the more refined will be the outcome!
Bliss is one of the best fashion critics or vloggers on RUclips. You can tell he loves fashion, not because it's trendy, but from a design and craftsmanship level.
ngl this is part of why I’m now focusing on illustration in school rather than fashion. the pace was too fast, the rules too unclear, and the pressure unnecessarily high. illustration isn’t easy either but overall it’s a much friendlier environment and this way I get to explore fashion in my own time outside of school
first time viewing your channel, and i'm a complete non-fashion person - love your clear analysis of how corporates dictate the speed and scope of the world we live in to cover up their lack of original thoughts and then both drowns out new voices and ideas, and impoverishes the world we all live in. impressive stuff.
I am not big in to fashion, but that explains a lot why I see so much of weird designs, when there is nothing new to discover anymore and pressure is real.
9:36 yes!!!! I've been saying that for a minute now!!! Release a collection when the designer feels like it!! Screw the fashion calendar!!!
fashion as an industry does seem to move at a pace, and produce a volume of work, that no one can deal with. i once worked in the same building as a fashion brand and no one ever looked happy running up and down the stairs with samples. I could happily deal with one show a year from Rick Owens.
Excellent topic Bliss Foster it has gotten crazier through the decades! I think it was around the late 80's when Moschino as a brand put out an advertising that was a female vampire with STOP THE FASHION SYSTEM wording. Its a monster created by clothing manufacturers who wants us all to shop for new things constantly.
I remember that like yesterday!!
I wish there were more brands focusing on beauty, I don’t like the gimmicks but I can’t ignore there are good stufff today
I'm so sick of stupid robots in fashion shows, i feel like designers only do it to go 'viral ' on tiktok
I don't even care about fasion and I fully agree
There’s just too much fashion happening. Even the shows feel to be about spectacle and hype, and not design. There’s so much clutter that none of it feels special. I prefer to look away and focus more on style than fashion.
*Fashion Designers Aren’t Designing Anymore* I 100% agree with that - I can even tell you why - big data, they are increasingly driven by buying trends
Buying trends are starting to LEAD the fashion designers rather than the designer lead fashion. Weirdly enough King Charles, when he was Prince Charles, was talking about this with the people who designed his lifetime collection called " the Modern Artisan". They included draw string trousers cos the buying trends demanded it, he hated its inclusion. EDIT >>>
You probably mean a different thing - I mean quite literally. Data says "people want blue pockets, do something with blue pockets NOW"
Now I understand why I lost interest in producing fashion and went back to painting 🖌️🎨 Art rules. Fashion is in the 🌑
Thanks Bliss brilliant as always.🎉
as a person who exclusively wears hoodies, leggings, sweatshirts, and sweatpants, high fashion designs look... alien to me. Like I can't imagine an actual human being wearing these incomprehensible art pieces for more than 15 minutes at a time. Are they actually for wearing??
Great question! The craziest pieces have a few options
1. The brand keeps them in storage for future reference
2. It’s sold as a runway sample to a client who collects the brand’s work as art pieces.
3. They do a very small manufacturing run of the item if they believe 5-10 customers will purchase it
4. It’s given as a gift to a celeb/investor/friend/someone the brand owes money to lol
You also might be surprised by how normal many of those pieces look on their own. Most of the craziest runway looks are crazy because it’s actually three or four pieces stacked on top of each other. When you take those pieces apart, it’s not quite as insane as it may first look. But that all depends.
If you’re new to the channel, could I recommend a video? We have one called *Prada: Fascism and Fashion* that’s really crazy. We get into some pretty insane historical stuff that went overlooked in the 1980s.
Thanks for watching, homie 💫💫
tbh i would be so happy to wear wearable art that was functional, i love crazy strange unique designs it's just so unwearable which to me defeats the point
Just one thing I found interesting in what you said was about games having shoestring budgets budgets have increased for development, whilst also games being increase from 60$ to 80$ now, the cost of distribution has also lowered with such small levels of physical media being needed to be produced. I feel like the game industry is in a similar situation to fashion as in corporate sides pushing for overwhelming success no matter what. And I feel like one issue fashion and games as a medium are running into is over scoping. Every publishing studio wants a massive multi billion $ game with player retention, but there aren't enough people to consume the actual product. Especially with the directions of live service games essentially turning into a job in it's self. So many people won't play other games due to sunk cost falecy. In the end art will always been destroyed by the attachment of commercial viability, as it's value emotionally is striped for capital gains.
this, I immediately went "well hang on a second" when he said that. Indie darlings are producing amazing games at and often under $60--worth mentioning too is the monetization systems of AAS games. They charge $60 (or, starting recently, $70) at the door but are nickel and dining players at every turn, before during and after release. I'd say it's nor uncommon for someone to put $90 towards a modern game.
*AAA
9:30 god damn Bliss thank god you said this. I’ve been going insane pondering why tf do brands not go with this mindset when producing collections.(money obv) there’s too much i 10000% percent believe the whole industry would run better this way
What’s strange is I don’t think it’s making as much money as they think it does
OMG YES!!
Your film director analogy ( @9:29) was SPOT ON!!
You're 100% right that designers should show once yearly or once every 3 years!
I personally think Haute Couture should should only show once a year or once every 18 months!
Fun fact, I learned that fashion shows used to be trade show events. Thanks for the great content.
Ayyyy it’s the legend 🦾
I figured thsts what they were at some point until they just turned into a literal fr eak show for clout.
I'm studying fashion arts and design at college rn; one of my classes is all about sustainable fashion, and my teacher has worked in this field and is really passionate on the topic. I'd say that out of all my classes, we're always being encouraged in this class in particular about how we can change the fashion industry as we enter the workforce and make it more sustainable, and I'm just sitting there like 👁👄👁 bro...I'm not trynna be the next Chanel or St. Laurent, I just wanna learn how to design costumes for stage productions and start my own small business designing people's custom commissions ^_^"
You are absolutely right. People are so blind to trends and they do no know a shit about fashion. Finally someone honest.
Designing new embellishment techniques takes time too! It could take a year just to troubleshoot a new concept before it's ready to wear.
Thanks for talking about such important issues! It’s obviously what we should think about first before criticizing some brands for making no changes.
That explains a lot
Yeah kinda feels list fast fashion principles have trickled up somehow. I would love to see fully designer-determined schedules become the norm, like just a couple times a week someone goes "hey a new line from so-and-so just dropped!"
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on what the landscape would look like if fashion week were digital or nonexistent. As someone who has never attended in person, handling releases digitally in the early pandemic made no difference to me and if anything it was a nice change of pace.
just stretch out releases and make room for everyone to shine as there is more room in between shows for other great designers. helps ideas grow, invites innovation, makes the whole bubble a bit more sustainable
Really the best fashion channel hands down.
Thanks so much, Carli :) means a lot to me
It's good when the algorithm throws in something like this. I have absolutely zero interest in what this person is passionate about but it's good to see.
Welcome in! I totally get it, the super artistic side of fashion isn’t for everybody. If you wanted to check out, one other video that might change your mind, we put out one called “Prada: Fascism and Fashion” a while back. It’s one of the best videos we’ve ever made. If you feel like it, give it a look 💫💫
Thanks for including the last Dries show in the background, would love to see a video on just him :)
I kinda see the number of collections showed and produced in a year as one complete body of work of the designer and their businesses. It's a matter of timing when and where to release, hence many seasons, collections, and shows. It's overwhelming to complete the whole set for designers. Maybe designers should dare to be more strategic when doing their collection, working on pieces that immune to the fast trend cycle, giving them time to create the next great pieces responsibly.
I have 0 knowledge of fashion. my wardrobe is 'grabs my boyfriends sweats and hoodie' (sometimes I steal my dads stuff too) I haven't bought clothes for myself in like 6 years. except shoes bc mine broke.
this video is great. u presented ur thoughts super clearly and even someone like me understood the issue and what your saying. and you did that in 15 mins? thats cool
My absolute favourite designer is McQueen. His clothing is always unique and it’s absolutely beautiful. It’s really easy to recognize his style once you’ve seen a couple of pieces. He’s definitely one of the designers I look up to most. If I ever get the chance to properly design my own clothes (as in, money-wise. Fabric is really expensive), one of my first pieces would definitely be a McQueen piece. Plus they’re wearable! As in, an average person can show up (circumstances of course) and wear his pieces
Can you talk about new middle eastern designers and brand & how the Dubai FW is doing? Love your work :)
A similar thing happened with modern art towards the end of the 70s where there was so much one upping and deconstruction of itself that it led to the end of the movement (as we know it today). Everything from art installations with no art, to pieces of music that were just 4 minutes of silence.
This too shall pass and it will pick up somewhere else and we can’t know where it will respawn (so to speak)
Oh how I miss the bygone era of simple, beautiful, and artistically satisfying runway shows of the mid 90s to the mid 00s. Such a golden era.
… ngl half the reason I liked the vid is because your interior decor is on point, good job man
Thanks homie! That is definitely not my house 😆 I’ll pass the compliment along to my dad 💫💫
I quit the industry almost a decade ago. The entire fashion machine was unsustainable, exclusionary and exploitative back then. It's only gotten worse since. I occasionally keep an eye on it and go "thank god I got out when I did".
Going to art school made me hate art. And took years to be able heal from it and feel inspired again. Being a textile and fashion designer made me totally opt out of clothes shopping beyond the absolutely necessary... Or want to style clothing anymore, even though that was a huge passion for me as a teen...
The whole experience was traumatic - to the point I had a panic attack the last time I saw a picture of the (deeply hypocritical) head of the design school I went to at an unrelated social enterprise presentation for my new career path. They were telling us that design was meant to make lives better... While quoting the guy who presided over trying to force me to quit uni because my head of dept didn't want to do extra paperwork to keep my disabled self safe in the studio...
The creative industries as a whole are guilty of a helluva a lot of awful behaviour. But, having worked across multiple disciplines over the last decade. Fashion is one of the worst... Prime example: they literally design more clothes for dogs than disabled folk.
And it's battering yourself against a brick wall trying to change it from within right now. Literally nothing has been learned over the last decade - the same issues we were fighting against then are still there now. But eventually it will fully eat itself like the Ouroboros it is, as you said.
One of the few things I really found useful about art school was that our lecturer 110% wanted to marry Malcolm Gladwell. And we had to overanalyze "The Tipping Point" and other texts... As a result, it's easy to spot cultural movements early. We are close to, if not already at, the point where fashion cannot go on as it has been. We're at the summit and soon it's going to be a steep slide down into a new wave... And it will be a steep learning curve for those not already planning for it...
Overconsumption and the "Shienpocalypse" is a symptom of peak capitalism-driven, profit first, fashion. I'm looking forward to what sustainable, forward thinking fashion in an industry that prizes fair work for fair pay looks like. I'm manifesting the f* outta that future.
Coincidently you released this at almost the exact time Phoebe Philo dropped her long awaited label. I'm curious to see what type of frequency she adopts when releasing new collections, I did read that the next one will follow in Spring of 24' so I can only assume it will be two a year ?
Then again some brands literally just repeat a lot of their work and people call it repetitive…Obviously if you want them to show 5 times a year there is not much roon to change
i think chopova is doing amazing too. they're relatively new in this industry but from the collections so far... i'm obsessed with their works. same goes with simone rocha!
The algorithm has blessed you with outsiders. Greetings.
Anyway, as a layman, this seems to be why there was that period of time where it felt like there was literally a dozen fashion events wherein a designer sent just a nude or topless model down the runway. Like "ok I need to generate some hype and I have approximately 11 minutes to imagine and create this look. What are my options.
I've got it."
Fashion is speeding up because everything is speeding up.... always love your reviews
Hmmm Chanel, which is an insane powerhouse and produces wayyyyyyyy too much… does have Looms that get used in studio… they also purchased specialty/family studios that produce their tweed, lace, (Lesage), etc.
Also, folks like Fear of God, do their own thing instead of every season. I appreciate that he takes his time. Rick also doesn’t do the 12 collections per year thing either. He’s also on his own schedule.
Even Marc Jacob’s has pulled the breaks on his insane production (due to switching management and some financial hiccups ). I just wish it was all more sustainable and not producing more trash.
But Chanel loses in popularity. People only like their vintage stuff. And how greedy they are. They wanted to stop people from selling Chanel stuff second hand by sueing them. Who cares about Nazis
My dad did the electronics and mechanical side for Miss Universe Australia Maria Thattil's dress. And the designer Yeung nearly got sued for copyright for the mechanism to make the dress rotate despite it being different. Sad to see that it broke when the dress was being put on but if that doesn't say anything about the industry then I don't know what will.
Wait, I don’t know anything about this. What happened?
Thanks for talking about beauty in fashion! I had commented a few months ago about that, so I'm glad that you indirectly addressed it :)
Well, those were the analog days. It took longer to develop the film, edit it and distribute it all on foot. Now they do it all electronically and even before then it was turning into something else towards the end of the eighties. Combined with the digital age things are shared much faster. Most things on run ways aren't even really something you can imagine people walking around in. Its ridiculous.
On another note, that red couch in the background is stunning.
11:40 Well said. I'm not really into fashion, but I do agree with your sentiment. Everything has to be better, faster, more this and that, etc. and at the same time, while some people are "over inventing" stuff, others are afraid to break with an established formular. Like Hollywood movies only relying on big names and actors but not being able to bring something fresh to the table.
I noticed. What happened to the people who were in Project Runway, that show often amazed me.
i think this phenomenon is affecting most creative fields and just society in general. as the working class dissappears, everyone is scrambling to *anything* to nab some scrap of virality in hopes that they can escape the widening black hole at the bottom of society. but it just gets harder and harder to stand out in a meaningful way, and now we have ai in the mix spitting out shit that humans cant even conceive of at a pace that not even the brightest and most feverish creatives can keep up with.
Yes. Thank you.
I refuse to call myself a fashion designer despite being a costumer and technical writer.😊
As a graduate in fashion design I presented this same question as to why we are constantly rushed into making a complete collection every 3 months. Everyone told me that it’s just how it is. The solution is that the consumers need to slow down and turn the industry into “slow fashion” instead of fast fashion. Just like an iPad kid, The consumer constantly want more of it and fast. What we want as a designer is to have enough time to present a collection that is meaningful and that has the best quality possible. Not just the trendy stuff.
give blessings to the algorithm for bringing me into a topic outside of my bubble that I actually enjoyed, and thank you for amking sush a fine video
Welcome in! If I could recommend your next video, the reeeally good ones are the ones where we can spend a lot of time on a single runway show. If you have time, check out
Prada: Fascism and Fashion
Issey Miyake isn’t Dead: He’s Immortal
and
Rick Owens and Immortality: Spring 2023
Again, welcome in! I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments as you check out more videos 💫💫
I’m so glad someone’s saying shit about this I thought I was going crazy bc I was into the high fashion scene when I was younger then recently got into it again and I’m not gonna act like nothing great hasn’t hit the catwalk in 20 years but I will say it’s much harder to find and the pieces to hit mainstream attention usually just do because everyone has agreed it looks stupid as shit it’s literally the same as watching RUclips and other internet content turn into the clickbait hellhole it is now people making ‘art’ to get more eyes not to actually make something with real value
Not even arguing that the industry should pivot more towards beauty or get less artistically arcane, just a plea for some sanity in sustainable expectations.
going into the theater industry for props and knowing what we do to the enivorment because money is,,,, ohhuhggghhh oh my god
Im a game developer that isn't really into high fashion but Im fascinated on learning more about how other industries work. For me fashion seems a bit like the art world, it's either people that complain about how ridiculous, unaffordable and unwearable designer clothes are and how fast fashion is killing the planet or people that live and die for fashion that they seem to live in an alternative reality that the commoners "just don't get". Personally I see a lot of artistry in the making of clothes but I really wonder how many more designers, brands, collections, seasons, fashion shows,etc do we really need in a world where sustainability should really be the priority.
1 other textile development....Chanel - They develop and weave their own haute couture signature boucle "tweed" after yrs of buying from Linton, Maliha Kent...apparently once other designers started using said suppliers...they moved it in house to be more "Unique"? As for following the calendar...Azzedine Alaia only showed when he was ready.
The Philmont bull is just insanely captivating to me
When I was growing up, our children's televisions shows periodically developed some kind of goal requiring material resources and decided to "have a fashion show fundraiser!" to pay for it. This seemed deeply confused about the purpose of a runway and the political economy of playing dress-up.
With your style it's fashion week every day of the year. Mans dripped out of this world 😳
I don't know why youtube kept suggesting this to me, I have no interest in fashion and know nothing about it but I just gave in and checked it out. I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about but you're probably doing a good job so keep it up.
Something ill point out from a outsiders perspective. I inspect hospital projects for a living. In architecture and industrial design the same thing is happening. Not to the degree of the relentless amount of fashion weeks, but its happening. My theory is that the relentless demand for making more money than the last quarter (accelerationism) has destroyed all nuance and intricacy of everything. You look at the world now and its an artificial shell of its former self. Everything is just that... a shell. Just a coat of paint masking the unbelievable pain we are causing ourselves and nature respectively. I cant predict the future, however i know that there is going to be a monumental change in how humans perceive reality. We have to. The more i live the more crazy i think I am saying such apocalyptic things, but we are playing with powers not fully understood and we will face extinction if balance is not flooded into our collective conscious. This is a war against ourselves and our destructive habits. good luck everyone.
Such a shame we are blessed yet we wont use our blessings. NAY they TAUGHT US NOT TO USE THEM. I weep for humanity.
Edit: If the mess of words was too much. What im saying is that the same problem the fashion industry has, is the same problem the world has.
Not gonna lie. I would like to have those colorful lizard boots in the thumbnail. It reminds me of AVAVAV frog feet high heels boots. I wanna wear them. And from time to time, those boots cross my mind. Also interesting to imagine a world, where wearing these kinds of fashions is the norm.
Yeah as a Fashion Student i really hate how they are making us work SO MUCH with so little time (making a skirt in two weeks when it takes more time than that). Our teacher says that if we dont do things on time the industry will eat us :/
folks been saying this for years. I've been saying it for less years, because I think derivative creativity is still creativity.
....but we've reached a point where being sloppy isn't running against the grain anymore. it's not challenging or new or even that fun tbh. it's old and tired and done.
people no longer want to fight the man. they want to work with the man for a sustainable world because we aren't idiots anymore
Edit: PLEASE I NEED THE LIQUID METAL PAAAANTS
I’m a little late to respond to this, but I think the big names need to slow down too. Luxury RTW quality is no longer impeccable, even the Chanels and Diors, who function the best in this system they created, have sacrificed quality at the purchase level to do it. The fact that smaller, younger designers have been able to get end user quality at all is quite miraculous, actually.
Game dev here. The problem in games is not the price point not going up with inflation, it's rich executives hogging all the profit. Most AAA studios have games riddle with microtransactions that bring in a lot of money at the cost of focusing on quality.
Game devs consistently get fired by the masses from greedy studios even when profits are high. It's horrible.
Game development sorely needs unionization.
I think it should be more like the music industry where an artist will drop an album every now and then, some artists take years, others drop very often, they just release when they have made something special that they deem finished.
Robert Wun, Guo Pei and Peter Do create incredible work , have a specific vision and really show beauty in a unique form !!!!!
As usual, I found this a very insightful video, but I felt one point was in contradiction with what you said in your last one. That brands now too rarely focus on beauty in and of itself, and instead on a "complicated artistic message", while in your last video, (this is a rough paraphrase of the Q and the A) you were asked whether you needed a story or worldbuilding theme when starting a brand, and your answer was that absent that, a new brand was pointless, that we already had enough clothes. Yet doesn't this inevitably lead to fashion that must be a series of artistic messages, perpetuating the themes of the brand, and where shows devoted to beauty in and of itself run counter to that? Not trying to be pedantic here, just trying to figure this out.
I think the “story” or the “worldbuilding” should be understood as beauty philosophy or brand statement instead of giving an artistic message, which is just a part of modern marketing. The sustainable clothing, slow fashion, gender equality in fashion, the beauty and creativity in technically design process itself could be consider as “worldbuilding” and also artistic.
The barriers to entry seem to be increasing at hyper speed. This is likely muffling maximum creativity despite the economic environment that the treadmill the big houses can drive creates. The default back to the manic pace is really surprising considering all of the reflective discourse at the beginning of the pandemic.
The pace needs to slow down not just in fashion but everywhere. And when I get in the fashion world I'm not killing myself to keep up
THANK YOU!!
I personally don't think Cruise/Resort & Pre-Fall should even exist! Total overkill!
Who decides the cadence of the treadmill? The CFDA? I’m confused as to what it will take to change the schedule to just one fashion show/collection per year
"Business compliments the spread of beauty towards the goal of eventually consuming it whole". Fashion is one of many mediums of beauty. So again , business compliments the spread of *fashion* towards the goal of eventually consuming it whole. By "spread of beauty" I mean the connection of fashion to a system of supply and demand . A familiar system of supply and demand for fashion is the fashion show. And while beauty is present at the show an additional goal is also to generate sales that encourage a profit. And because some of us are attracted to the show because of the beauty we have the privilege to be less aware of the business. I have study little of the fashion show because little interest in its spectacle. But I do understand its attractiveness. From my observation it is more business than beauty. And the intersection of both make it difficult to participate in the competitive market of fashion. But this isn't solely the fault of business but the result of business working with our consuming habit. Through the supply and demand system business is trying to fill the belly of fashion consumers. And because we don't like leftovers we need new food. (hopefully I haven't lost you in this metaphor). Fashion show are pressure to do "new" because are consuming habits demand it. So the business works to supply it.
Picks up margarita glass "It's Fashion Week o'clock somewhere." 🍹
Milan is west of Paris... Thank you for letting me be a know it all
Honestly would love to see the shot on the thumbnail become fashionable, now thats making a statement
Hey those snakes, correct me if I'm wrong but it reminds me of the ancient symbol of the ouroboros
Video games are stuck at a price point because they include less and less content in the core game, and make you buy DLCs instead (which is probably costing more than just adjusting for inflation).
Interesting vlog, I guess my interest in fashion is wrong. I like the extreme designs the more outrageous and experimental the better. I have never been into just the beauty of fashion, I would find that boring.
I will never shut up about Once We Were Warriors out of Amsterdam, the quality is so good and the deisgns are comfortable and fit into casual everyday wear with clean finish to them. Lotus eaters is good too with some cool designs but they rny super plus size friendly