How to chalk lines for shingles
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- Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2019
- How to chalk lines for dimensional/architectural shingles. Step by step instructions. The measurements are in the video. Also if you where wondering what the 3tab measurements are they are: 5-10-15-20 , or 10-20-30 and so on.
#roofing
#roofer
#diy
You are awesome my love.... everyone listen he knows ROOFS!
For sure people who do chalk lines their work is always quality!... good stuff man!!!
I've been a roofer 33 years. I personally haven't marked lines in about 15 years. The trick is dont rush thru the roof and pay attention. My roofs come out straight every time. I suggest lines if your new to roofing however.
I have always popped chalk lines, with pretty much all dimensional shingles are 5 and 5/8 exposures so learning the fractions one time and remembering or marking your tape measure helps.11 1/4 22 1/2 33 3/4 45. the pattern repeats 1/4 inch as 1/2 1/2 3/4 1 inch. You will see the guys who claim not to need chalk lines come over top of a dormer and valleys making a mess of the roof with completely loosing the proper exposure and how straight the shingle should run. Lazy roofers who can't read a tape measure with their ugly roofs are an embarrassment to the trade. Take the time and measure out your roofs your customers paid for a professional job not someone in a hurry and blast out another job. Tape Measures take out the guess work you know it will be straight and if the house isn't perfectly square how to adjust your marks. I still use a hammer and nails because when I drive a nail I am sure it hits wood, if not I pull it . Nail Guns and people not using chalk lines to just get done faster has made a mess out of roofing along with people not removing felt paper and replacing wood that should be replaced. I am tired of tearing off 2 to 3 layers of felt paper and replacing hundreds of feet of 1x8. And I don't believe anyone knows what a grinder is for when it comes to brick flashing, they rely way to much on caulking.
I've always done 18 inches for the first start. And go up 45 each line after. That's with architectural shingles. If needed to get past a valley, we do 22.5 line. Nothing smaller than that. I don't pop a line for the starter. Can eye the overhang. Popping a line for starter doesn't always work. Especially if the fascia isn't straight all the way through.
18 from the starter or drip edge?
@@vistaca760 drip edge
this video is exactly what i was looking for, thank you very much, I doing a reroof and needed this info badly
Good to See a Another Good Roofer From Pittsburgh. Im turning 21 started Roofing at 18. I Work For Jadco Construction. Ive heard about your guys work tho really good work. Thanks for giving tips always hard to learn faster ways on the fly.
Better learn from someone else
Kick ass video bro. Thanks for the help
VERY GOOD and detailed video.
Thanks my man! I use to roof with some old cats too and no one ever taught me the measurements ether. I havent roofed in a long time but thinking of a work change.
I love to see guys lay off over a dormer without chalking lines....ehh.. especially with multiple dormer's...😬. Don't ever anticipate that the ridge is square with the eve. A real professional ALWAYS checks these things.
It's like a brick layer not using a work line. Come on! Don't chalk lines on a Tudor house .. and see what the roof looks like.
We get into some complex roofs, not chalking lines would be doing yourself a disservice and create headaches.
Lines are just faster, and you are guaranteed to have a straight roof. It's not about knowing what your doing, it's about being a professional!
Thank for watching, I appreciate it.
Smaller sections I'll just run em, pies,dormers ,s like that. When shingling by myself ill snap one line. When more than 2 gunners, ill do 3. Good video man,im sure alotta ppl new to roofing will appreciate it
Santino Martinez thanks you for the comment
Now this was the best I have seen on the layout of shingles direct and straight to the point and I don’t know how you know but I was wondering about the three tab..I would like to know all there is about shingle work so whatever you have to offer for a guy like me starting out please I can really use your help. Thank you.
Ok I will do my best to bring you relevant videos in a timely manner. Not sure what you need to know but I'll do my best. Also In the event that you ever get stuck there's contractor on demand look em up on Facebook. They offer assistance in real time. You can Skype(video call) and they will walk you through it if you get stuck. Actual roofers offering professional advice. It's reasonably priced btw.
Thanks for the comment, it encourages me!
This was helpful. I've always been the grunt or feeder.
This is me rite now looking around on RUclips finally found this
Thanks man!
I'm in Florida we dont do a 1 inch over hand like up north and I do lines on alll the roof that i do we do 18 on the first line and 45 on the second you'll get about 1/2 drop on every line but inspector over here like we dont get snow but we get a lot water so it help us over here the jobs are straight everytime customers that get up to the roof are always satisfied and personally think that what matter that the home owner is getting what's is paying for thanks guys
Thanks sr
U have my subscribe!!!!!!!
Love to see a video on bending the rule.very little out there on this
U can also move the tape from each line and measure 5 5/8”
Hey from Tennessee. You helped me out a few months ago with my roof and I just wanted to post a pic and show you what it looks like. It’s not too bad, thanks again!! I’m not sure how to post the pic on youtube
Fantastic!
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 how can I send u a pic?
@@jackcovington1322 forwardhe@gmail.com
Western Pennsylvania in the house!!!
In maryland your required 2 rows of ice guard and I'd the porch connected to the main overhang.Ice will dam and cause problems , so iceguard should be used at or below the transmission
Missing from the video is the installation of the chalk line. Do you drive roofing nails at both sides of the roof, wind the line, then pop? Then what do you do with the nails? Do you just drive them in & forget them or do you put a drop of tar over them?
Typically I'll pluck the nails. The starter goes over this area. If I have a helper I don't use nails.
I have no issue with chalking lines .. I bet your roofs are crazy straight . Most roofers I know , chalk lines every few courses .. your way is far superior
The problem I have is that neither the bottom line of the shingles nor the ridge at the top is likely to be level. If I measure from the bottom, the shingle line at the top will not be parallel to the ridge cap at the top. Also, there is bound to be some sag in the roof increasing as you move from side edge to center. (We live in a 3 dimensional world.) That may be why using an 8 foot level does not work by extending the sides out from the 8 foot level in centerline of 16 foot wide roof. Some where at some time I must cheat & compromise. I could measure from bottom, but when I get to where the ridge cap is reachable, use a square across the top -- my roof is at about 45 degree angle (very steep), at the top it is about 90 degrees from side to side. At that point some cheating has to be done with the chalk line, & I have to cover an excess amount of some of the shingles below to avoid exposing some shinges excessively. Or so it seems to me. But I take it from you, I should put down chalk lines for each line before shingling (about 24 feet on the slope up). This is not easy to do because of the steepness of the roof.
Thank you for your comment.
With you having a 12/12 (45) you will be using toe boards, walk boards, or some type of scaffolding. You will be on it during tear off and install.
Once you are done with tear off, pay special attention to the eves. If your sheeting is overhanging your eve fascia board you need to cut it either flush with the fascia or cut it back 1/4 from the edge of the fascia board. This is to assure that your drip edge (or gutter apron) has a true seat against the fascia. You can see how if you didn't check this or didn't make the adjustment if necessary how it could mess you up. You will be hooking your tape on the eve after the drip is installed. The drip should be installed correctly as it's the starting point.
reference
Hook your tape on eve mark 18 inches at both ends pop a line for a 30 year ..run the courses landing the top of the shingle at the line you popped,, not all facia is going to be straight ,,new construction is ok with the 11 in mark for starter
Can you make a video with how to snap lines going into/out-of a valley or up the sides of a dormer, the main reason why everyone is interested in the first place?
Absolutely! The weather is crap in Pittsburgh as of right now. However we are going to be starting a complex roof in the next 2-3 weeks. This roof will have a few long valleys. I can do it then? If I was to make a mock roof, I don't think it would be as easy to follow. Rather than doing it on an actual job.
Does that work?
We are on a roof now with a few valleys and a dormer. I'll have a video for you guys in a few days.
Great tip. I am about 15 courses into first side of my house and realized I forgot to overhang starter/first course.
Both are flush with drip edge on eaves.
Any suggestions on a fix or is it a list cause?
Thanks man.
thanks for the comment! I would like to say its a lost cause. What's the pitch on the roof? Could always try to slip a starter in under the starter. Even cut the top off of a shingle and slide it under the starter. Got to figure a way to secure it also.
It is possible to make a super straight roof.
With just using a middle finger
As long as u start straight it will be straight with just using the inch and 2" marks on finger bend.
Measure ur middle finger, usually it is 1" and 2" and where finger meets palm. 3".
It is for me at least.
Years ago. We would chalk (if I rember right)Two 6 inch lines up center of roof, two or three going up and just kept them straight with the first few rows. Church we snapped them all way up roof. Can't remember how we measured , five up for first line, them 6s for each row, the middle I'm not sure how they measured those out
Center and 6 over or?
You're referring to 3tabs. Using the racking method or 6 off. I still use that same method today Everytime I do one. Which I kind of miss 3tabs to be honest.
Thanks for the comment!
What do you do if your measurements from the ridge don’t line up with either side?
You have to use a technique called bending the tape. I explained it further to someone else down in the comments.
💪🏾
I added a video for chalking lines in a valley. Check it out. Hope this helps all who need it! Let me know how else I can help.
ruclips.net/video/bv9wSIRqUqU/видео.html
Every roofing company I've worked at just finger bangs the starter at one digit of your finger usually and never chalked lines. I'm going to try and do this, this year. That's how I was taught too. I think one company makes u chalk starter and the last 4 rows here. Why is it such a lost art to do this?
Today is all about speed. But people don't realize, it's faster to follow a line than to run them by eye.
I chalk the first line line at 17.5” from the edge of the drip edge and then from the 17.5” line I go every 45”. This works well for me with architectural shingles.
Why 45?
17 then 11s
17
I’ll sub if you make a video about bending the rule like you mentioned. I’ve figured out the bending of rule (tape) portion of the process. But I’d like to get the math correct so my lines fall at the top of each shingle course we run. As of now the lines I chalk are correct and are an accurate reference on the way up towards the ridge however we have to measure up to put chalk lines because I can’t get it figured out how to make the lines all fall right at the top of the courses…. I’ve been stumped on this for a couple days.
We are opening another roof up early next week. I will make the video then to explain the process.
Thanks for the comment.
I've seen guys use the head of the nailgun held against the top edge of the reveal of architectural shingle to line up the next shingle to that. As long as the first row is level why wouldn't that work if all the reveals are 5 5/8 exactly?
Using lines is the fastest most efficient way to shingle a roof. It's easier to look at a line than it is to adjust to a reveal. Using lines also assures that you have a straight roof. Think about using your suggested method when trying to shingle around a dormer? Or running a 60-ft eve?
If you are installing shingles on your garage. Do it however you like. If you are a professional roofer or plan to be..use lines!
The sets on a gun are a nice thought. However I've never met a roofer who used them. Watch out for misfiring into your shingles doing that btw. It gets hot up there and you wouldn't want to accidentally have your finger on the trigger while you were doing that. Then you'll have shiners everywhere and that could be a mess. You won't be too concerned about lines when you have shiners all over your roof.
Also, not all shingles have a 5 ⅝" reveal. Be sure to check the reveal before assuming.
Why wouldn't you want to use lines? You don't want to assure that you are producing the best product? Where do you know somebody that says real roofers don't use lines?
Hey I’m from the Pittsburgh area also and I’m on my 3rd roof. This roof has a porch roof that’s tied into the house. It also has a dormer/peak in the middle of the roof. My problem is that I’m wondering what my best way to get my shingles to catch course above this dormer/ since on the one side of the roof there is a porch roof that extends an addition 10ft past where my starting point on the other side of the dormer.
Is chalking lines then cheating shingles my best bet? Help me out here please lol
Without seeing the roof I may point you in the wrong direction. However I will do my best to explain the direction I think you should go. You could send me pictures via email and I could point you in the right direction.
Here goes:
You need to establish a common line. Staying on the main roof (not the porch) I would get on the rake that goes all the way to the ridge. Make my marks all the way past the dormer and to the ridge.
I would then go over to the porch roof side(I assume it is a side wall that will need step flashing). Hook on to the eave of the main roof close to the cheek of the porch roof and start making your marks.
Once you get 1 course past where the top of the porch roof meets the main roof, stop.
Now go and snap the lines from the eave of the main up until the top of the porch roof. You have now established a base to work off of. Be sure to pull your last line(top of the porch roof) past the crows foot. This way you can see it.
From there I want you to measure from the line you made at the top of the porch roof, down to the eave of the porch roof. That number is important for your transition. We need to make sure that your courses are going to fall in the correct interval to make sure you don't have a short course at that transition. It's not the end of the world if you do, but it looks so much better when it looks uniform. When you divide whatever that number is by 5.5, if it give you an even number then you are golden. If it don't then we have to do the following:
Go to the eave of the porch roof and start making your marks on both sides(rakes). Once you get to the top(were the porch roof meets the main). Measure from your last crows foot on the porch roof to that line you pulled past. That number is going to be the size of the course at the abutment.
If that number is less than 5" you are going to have to snap the lines on the porch roof except the last 5 or so. From there you are going to have to adjust the remaing numbers to pick up for the difference. I recommended not exceeding ⅜ of an inch per course. If your difference is inches started the further down than 5 courses...makes sense?
If you have room, pull that line you made at the top of the porch roof all the way past the porch roof as far as you can. This will establish your common.
Again I can't see the roof, but if you have room on the other side of the roof to pull down to the porch roof from the ridge that would be even better to establish a common to get around the dormer.
When it comes to the dormer, if it is in the middle of the roof it is super important to establish the common line below it and make marks off of that line on each side of the dormer, all the way past the dormer ridge. This will assure that you have a perfect transition.
If you need more assistance, email me some photos and I can walk you through it.
Hope this helps
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 I appreciate the in depth detail. This definitely gives me a better understanding. What is your email? I’ll send you some pictures just to be certain if you don’t mind?
@@user-fc6me2hi4d forwardhe@gmail.com
Would you ever use rain grooves?
Rain groves?
Just do one bro. Just one for the first one. 13 1/4. Easy money… straight lines
I HAVE USED CHALK LINES FOR YEARS. ROOFED 2 HOUSES SIDE BY SIDE, HAD 2 "ROOFERS" THAT NEEDED WORK. GAVE THEM CHANCE ON ONE OF THE HOUSES BESIDE ME.THEY DON'T USE LINES WEL. I GOT ALL MY LINES DONE,THEY WERE A LITTLE A HEAD OF ME BUT NOT A HEAD MUCH.WELL I FINISHED A SHORT TIME LATER THEY FINISHED.WE STOOD BACK AND LOOKED AT BOTH HOUSES WELL WE HAD A SITUATION THE HAD DONE ONE OF THE WORST ROOFING JOB I HAD EVER SEEN.I ASKED THE GUYS HOW FAST CAN YOU DOO A TEAR OFF THEY SAID QUICK WELL GET STARTED THEY NEVER ROOFED OR EVER DONE A ROOF FOR ME EVER.END OF STORY
And that's a perfect example of a situation that lines can prevent.
Thank you so much for your comment sir. I made this video with the intention of offering some basic information to try and help guys produce a better product. I knew people were going to try to argue with it. But how can you, it's just the professional way of doing things.
Thanks again.
I have a life hack. BUY synthetic roofing felt with the grid lines or take your time and keep your shingles lined up
if it were a perfect world that would work.... but that underlayment isn't going to be installed nearly as straight as a chalk line and it's also going to get tweaked in any roofing deflections....
how do you keep architectural shingles that end in a metal lined open valley straight? how do you snap a chalk line for shingles that abut a valley? searched everywhere for this info.
I will try to explain. If that don't work I'll upload a very short video about it.
In the valley situation:
Make your marks as close to the valley as possible. Then you pull your chalk line through your crows foot and get as close to the valley as your can. Be sure to make sure the line is in the center of the crows foot before you pop the line.
If you need me to upload the video let me know.
Thank you! A video would be very helpful to me. @@forwardhomeenhancements2622
@@brandyhand2522 I should be able to upload it today
I uploaded the video on the valleys today.
You marked 27 1/2" wrong around @5:45
Products and applications dont meet building codes and are guidelines for there specific product's. Outside my backdo6i have ice dams from going in and out the door and I also have an 4 inch eve vent. If it cose me 19 or 20 dollars more to install iceguard it's going to save me in the long run. Just like building usins nail. Ever heard the term nails a cheap. Didn't think so
what happened to the other ways you were gunna show us
I made a short video on how you chalk in a valley.
What else would you like to see?
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 the bending tape method
?
U are a real roofer
How can you make sure you have a straight line relative to the ridge cap if the roof isn’t square?
Using a method called bending the tape. If you would like me to make a video explaining it I will.
Thanks for your comment.
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 heck yeah! I’m renovating my papaw’s old house here in Knoxville, tn. It had 3 4 layers shingles on it , been very hard. But I don’t think I know how to make sure my lines will match up to the ridge. Thanks, your video was awesome. But I don’t know what bend the tape means.
@@jackcovington1322
It depends on whether you are using 3tabs or dimensional shingles on which number you are going to use. 3tab is 5in. To make it easy dimensionals 5½in.
Snap lines on the whole roof going from the eve to the ridge.
Once you get to the ridge and you can snap no more lines, measure from the peak of the ridge to the last line you snapped on the left side of the roof. Then go to the right side and do the same thing.
Compare numbers. If you are within 2in it's not going to be too big of a deal, depending on how long the ridges. If it's over 40 ft I wouldn't sweat it too much,but you can still use this method to make it perfect.
If it's over 3in in difference I need you to measure down to the third line On the right side and the third line on the left side. Whichever side has the smaller number I need you to follow the following procedure.
Holding the hook of your tape on the 3rd line down turn the tape left or Right maintaining the hook on the third line down you snapped until the number is the same at the ridge as it is on the opposing side.
For example if you pulled down to the third line on the left side of the roof and it's 15 in
But on the right side of the roof it's 12 in.
I need you to hold that hook on that third line and move the tape to the right until the number 15 is in line with the peak of the roof. Then mark your crow's foot like you would if you were marking your lines with your tape going straight up the roof. But your tape is going to be on an angle. So you're going to mark five and a half 11 16 and a half and so on.
Then go back and resnap those lines but in a different color this time to make it less confusing. If you feel comfortable using the same color that you've been using that's also good too just remember which line to put the shingle on.
Measure down from the third line to the fourth line being sure that you ain't going to have a crazy course and that you did it right. If you're reveal is over five and 1/8 of an inch then you did something wrong.
Go back and retrace your steps. By this time your brain is going to figure out what I'm explaining to you when you're doing it yourself. And you will say haha I got what he's trying to say.
If you don't feel comfortable I'll be more than happy to do a mock-up roof at my shop and explain this, prior to you doing the roof. Just let me know.
Also we could do a Skype or something and I can explain it to you while you're on the roof. Whatever's clever.
I hope this helped and thank you for the comment.
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 thanks, I’m going to try it out this week. I think I understand but if I have problems I’ll let you know. Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
This kid said he just figured out lines then 5 mins later says this is what I make them do. Lmfao sit down laborers... This is what j make them do lollll
Pennsylvania must not require 2 rows of ice guard on the roof new or existing homes
Ice and water shield is a udl that's used to protect the roof sheathing/home from Ice daming.
It is used where the roof transitions from a condition space to an unconditioned space. Like exterior walls or roof the wall transition points. A good example is an overhang. If you have a 12-in overhang on your house, ice and water shield would be needed to run from the eve up and past the inside of the exterior wall by 18 in.
It does not make sense to put ice and water shield on a roof that is above an unconditioned space like a deck or a porch. Because there's no way for a freeze thaw or backup situation to take place. Because there is no heat coming from inside the structure.
Pa does require ice and water shield in the circumstances that I mentioned.
Since the roof in this video is over a Deck, ice and water shield dont make sense now is it needed.
There is titanium udl30 on this roof. It is a 30ry underlayment. It extends up the wall 10" and is under the building wrap for counter flashing purposes.
Thank you for your comment, and view.
If you have any other questions, please feel free.
Only with 2 foot overhang's and bigger..
You marked 26 1/2 FYI
Good skill to know is it needed no not really
Over a porch, which is over an exterior door. Yes it would make sense to use ice guard because if the door is opened and closed a lot ice will dam on the roof. Is common sense better. If there is a valley iceguard is required.
Ice and water shield is not needed over an unconditioned space. Review the building code and you will see this.
The udl30 you are seeing you are seeing in the video is a eve to ridge udl. Review the products and what there applications are before commenting on a video ment to educate others on how to produce a straight roof.
We will do one on the applications of ice and water shield for everyone in the future since there seems to be confusion on its application.
As always thanks for the comment! I love helping people learn the trade.
Good luck.b
Just because there's an exterior door doesn't mean that the outside now becomes a condition space...
By conditioned space I am referring to heating ventilation and air conditioning.... being inside your house. So no... a front porch would not be a condition space. Unless you close it in and ran duck work out there and everything else.
These are over decks. They are not intended to ever be closed in. If they are, that 30-year $150 per roll underlayment that's up there, Is going to do a fantastic job protecting that roof.
Go on to another roofers channel who is talking about ice and water shield and underlayment and make your comments there. That would be a more appropriate setting.
Thanks again.
Why not mark the drop edge ,save the environment from lead. Haha. Lol
I came here to watch you snap some chalk lines based on the title "how to chalk lines for shingles" and discovered that you don't actually demonstrate chalking lines for shingles. That's 8 minutes I'm not getting back.
Thank you for your comment. You just wanted to see me pop the line? You didn't want to know the most important part of the process? Interesting.. I'll keep that in mind for our next video.
Learn something 🙂
This guy is currently in Jail for Multiple cases of Home Improvement Fraud totaling over $250,000.00. Hope this video is at least educational for you.
🤦
Nobody makes videos about chalking lines because it’s not needed for shingles if you know what your doing
Lol what if your gutter edge is all out out walk
What if you don't know what you're doing? Lines help
Real roofers don't snap any lines
Lol
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 yeah and real tile guys dont snap lines and real concrete guys dont use lines to lay forms.... what an idiot
So totally wrong
If you know how to shingle, you shouldn't need to chalk lines
Explain to us how you lay off on a house with 2 dormers. One one each side, 4ft down from the ridge. Then with an additional dormer 24in up from the eve?
Do you just snap your first 2 lines on each side of the 1st dormer? Pray that the ridge and the eve are square and do your best?
When you get to the upper dormers and your courses don't line up... what do you do? Through a short course in?
This isn't a pissing contest. Professional roofers chalk lines. Those who don't are not welcomed on my crews or any professional roofing crew that I'm aware of. It's just the right thing to do. It makes you a good roofer. Not an inexperienced one!
Forecasting potential headaches, and preparing for them is what separates professionals from the rest. I understand if your shooting a shed or a simple up and over. You feel confident to do it without, that's on you. If you have a 40-50ft ridge you will be able to notice a 1/4" wave that will surely repeat itself. If you have lines you have no worries.
Pride aside. Chalking lines is the right thing to do. Be a professional.
Thanks for the comment.
@@forwardhomeenhancements2622 This guy.... That's like saying if you know how to lay bricks, you dont use mason line. Friggen degenerates that give customers bad work
You're in PA. First off no ice n water on the edge nor on the wall line. Big mistake if that us a heated room. Definitely not professional if it is. Then you are suppose to put your paper over the drip on the rake, another big mistake. I'd like to see how you shingle and do your flashing on the wall.
Now that wasn't nice.
It's an unconditioned space. It's a roof over a deck. Did you watch the video? No need for ice and water... With a 1in overhang on a rake, over or under on the drip edge isn't going to make any difference.
Udl can go over or under the drip or gutter apron. Reference CertainTeed handbook.
Thanks for the comment. Always enjoy a critic.
Thanks this video has help me out cause today I was ready for the shingles part and it's been a while since I've done roofing so thanks again for this video and teaching how to mark the lines my roof shingles part that shows is 5" -3/4" so I will just go 5"-1/2" or 6" right and mark 12 24 36 48 skipping one line that is so that's where I get 12 24 36 48 till I reach the top of the ridge except I already have 5 layers of shingles on already so I kinda started yesterday a bit but wasn't sure how to mark for the shingles to go in a straight line or roll you know what I'm talking about I'm thinking of just marking 12 24 36 48 on that last layer of shingle I got on the roof right I mean the first 5 rows look pretty straight to me just saying but I want to make sure that it stays straight as I go up the roof right. Lmk if I will do good or if I did good cause I'm going for it all the way to the top