HOW TO | Roofing basics (part 2 of 3)
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
- In this video I detail the importance of snapping lines to get your roof straight, and installing your starter correctly. I also give you many short and quick details that can help you along the way. This video, if watched in its entirety, can save you 10x the amount of time and emergency research you'll have to do if you just fast forward. Thanks for watching new roofers and DIYers.
This channel is for educational purposes only. The methods taught in these video's are just a few of many ways to do construction. Use your best judgement of what will work best for you and what is required by code in your area. Like, subscribe, and hit the bell.
#Roofing #Shingling #Shingles
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If you enjoyed this HOW TO video be sure to HIT THAT LIKE BUTTON and feel free to click below and learn more. I have a playlist with awesome HOW TO videos involving, ROOFING, SIDING, SOFFIT, FASCIA, BIRDBOXES, CHIMNEY WRAPS, FLOORING AND MORE!!
ruclips.net/p/PL5lfy7rRhJVuCig7gNZ4EdxjDtIePxzRK
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You get alot of walkers but also have seen you on some crazy shit. Would love to shoot for ya.
Not sure if you check these comments but. The end of 2019 I bought my first home. And it needed a roof. I went and watched ALOT of your videos. And proud to say i stripped and replaced the roof. It looked great and never had a leak. THANK YOU!!!!!!
@@briannash9709 that's awesome brotha. Thanks for sharing
@@NWIVeteranConstructionyo when you coming back to RUclips?
Used all these steps in this video series to shingle my gazebo. THANK YOU! It was on point!!! Also the “bubble” tip was great! Only thing missing was the ridge
I'll make one next week. But oldest video that has 1 million views has a bit about cap
That's bs on cutting the ice shield. If you cut it then you had better run a bead of modified caulk on both sides and add a 12" patch over it.
Correct slitting out a bubble in ice dam requires a lapped in patch
Oh shut up😂
If a roll ends before the end of the roof starting a new roll requires a side lap. Slitting a bubble out leaves no side lap. What is the point of ice dam if it’s compromised with a huge cuts.
Just want to say thanks for your content. I'm a weekend warrior DIY'er and just shingled my 10x13 Gazebo that I'm building from scratch. Your videos helped the installation go safely and smoothly. It looks great and have gotten lots of great compliments. Keep up the great work!
Very nice! You're welcome man I'm honestly just happy to help.
After watching tons of videos on roofing, yours makes the most sense! When i got to shingling I could not find your video! 😡I just installed on a small lean to shed and need to redo everything from the drip edge, paper to the shingles. Ended up using another video, the wrong way video😂 Your install is the correct way!! Didn’t pay attention to lining nails and the first starter sheet to avoid the first seem 😮😡🥵. Luckily it’s small lean-to where I only used 1 full bundle of shingles. Im going to be building 2 larger sheds in the yard and want to do it right!! Thank you! $50 redo better than head aches down the road.
Thanks for these 3 videos, I am facing my home roof replacement; insurance paid claim due to high wind shingles flying; problem is the contractors I have spoken so far quoted more than what I have for it. I am entertaining the idea of do it myself, now these videos have some of all the info I need but not all; the good news is I used to work finished carpentry and framing for many years but just never done any roof before; I as well are not a car mechanic and took apart our Toyota Corolla, overhauled the whole car most parts and put it back together; it is running, my friend says the roof is simpler in comparison yet I would prefer a pro to do it but the prices I am getting are going to steer me into doing it myself; in my case I got a single story 1350 sq ft home with an L shape roof in 2 sections which measure 80x80; I am told I have 16 sq ft of roofing; ours have 3 layers to tear down and I am gathering info as far as how much and type of material needed; I know I want to put it Laminate shingles from HD Castle Sandstone but not sure yet about water barrier or felp; we are in Las Vegas, Nevada and here it is mostly sunny all year around; roof pitch here is 4:12 I believe and in my roof there are 2 valleys, 2 attic turbines, 4 vents, a chimney, a small round skylight and the AC Unit is on the roof in the center of it on roof 1; roof 2 is the one mostly for garage facing the street. I am not worry about demolition and tear up but worry about how to work around obstacles and how to properly install around it as it is difficult to find here. I would think it would take me about 4 days to do it on my own provided I can get all materials up. I watched a video here in you tube on how to make an electric joist using a 16 ft metal ladder which I have but if I do not use a contractor because pricing with the insurance check I believe I have enough for the materials I need and some tools I may need as well and my calculations are to be around $6000 mark; not sure yet. Another feasible way is to find a lone roof contractor who would do only the installation part with me providing a clean area, materials and help as needed; not idea what he would charge labor. I would be including dumpster as well; by the way my actual shingles are 3 tabs; that is why I will be upgrading to laminate as recommended by some I have already talked to. Any advises for me? I subbed; Thanks!
If it's insurance you should never do it yourself. I always make sure my customers don't pay a dime and I get enough money to do the job properly. You just have to find a roofer that can do the same. If you're having issues with the insurance company you can always hire a Public adjuster but if it's just a roof that is already fully approved then I would try and stay away from that
My second week in roofing and I’m actually liking how simple it is and fast the pace is
How you feel about it 4 mo later 😂
The heat is crazy sometimea
35 years at retirement ,I have a feeling things be different.
@@Perromedic0 way different
Can’t hate on the ogs that been at it
Great approach of walking backwards towards roof edge while laying out starters
Almost finished my first roof. Garden shed. I snapped a line for every line of shingles. 😂. Your videos were very helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to explain roofing for a beginner like me. Your presentation is clear and easy to follow. Thank you again and of course for your service to the USA.
Wow I’m amazed how simple shingling actually is when it’s explained properly. I worked for my brother one summer and he wouldn’t train me and just wanted me to hand him shingles and clean up the ones he threw off the roof.
I’ve got to say I’ve watched about a dozen videos getting ready to do my first ever roof all be it just a shed. This is by far the best explained and shown video I have watched ! Thank you for the confidence to go out and get started now :)
Thanks for the information/ refresher. I use to do some construction (20yrs ago) and got out if it but now doing my own shed/garage. Appreciate the information
Glad to help
Im a do it yourself er, only little experience with shingles. Just built a 28x30x12 garage. Im about to shingle but ran into issues and your video helped me out a lot. Thanks
Great information! I appreciate how you breakdown the information to make it digestible
Fantastic tutorial! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
We do 12-3/4 off drip edge, then 5-1/2 show every row up the roof with chalk lines. Over half way up the roof we will square the top line to the ridge. This ensures the shingles are squared to the roof, tar line is directly on the key way of the shingles, no exposed key ways, and that the shingle nailed above the other has the additional nails. Everyone has their own system, I am sure yours works well.
Appreciate you taking the time to show us this! Good stuff!
Thanks
Excellent. Thank You.
The best Shingle roofing video on youtube! Thank you for putting this out, I just completed my lean to style shed yesterday thanks to your tips and video
Happy to help
I found this very helpful, thank you!
You always do a great job .
I appreciate that!
Bro I want to thank you for getting on here and showing me how to roof I can do alot of things in the construction world but after today I can roof as well I appreciate you 🙏
Awesome video !
Just wanted to say thanks for your roofing lessons. Currently roofing my house. Just finished the front half with four valleys. Had a leak in the front and couldn't afford to pay for a professional. Would not / could not have tackled it properly without your help. FYI roofing is a young man's game:) This is kicking my arse!
Haha hence the warnings in the beginning! Glad it's working out for you though. Don't forget to kick back
An 64 and want to do this, geezz
Superb explanation! I like the cutting of the ice & water shield as it will show later on! Keep up the amazing content.
Been a nailer now for two months before that I was a skilled laborer now I can c myself owning my own roofing company easy
lets get it brotha
👏🏼 Great educational Video! 🙌🏼
Thank you
Thanks I’m starting on roofing this video was very helpful 👍 keep it up with that good work 👊
I appreciate it! Have fun n be safe
Awesome tutorial video! Very informative and helpful.
Happy to help
i started using my first cut shingle on top of my first starter instead of cutting a piece of starter, makes no difference just feels smoother when your trying to get your first few bundles on!
Great video. Thanks. I have a question. I'm roofing an old wooden garage which is 20ft long and the distance from the bottom edge of the roof (at the eaves) to the peak is 78" at one end and 80" at the other. I was planning to snap 2 reference lines and the question is should I snap them an equal distance up from the bottom edge of the roof and deal with the difference in rise when I reach the ridge or should I slant the snap lines such that each absorbs 1" of the differences in rise.
you are the best from all
Wow 👏😮 that was super funny, brother you make me laugh so hard
Such a well made video good job
Thank you! Glad you liked it
I usually do kinda like a moon walk to take all the bubbles out as I nail the paper down .
I used to run a chalk line with the old 3 tab to make sure they stay straight. Don't really have to do it with the heritage style though. Your videos are by far the most informative I've ran across so far. Every step is thoroughly explained and by the book. I thought I was a pretty fast shingler until I watched your speed shingling videos. Dude you blaze through a 30 square roof in half the time it would take me. A good video on how to roof and flash around dormers would be a big hit. Ive started to see alot of questionable installs that I've been called to fix because the half price cut throat bid was a half assed "handy man" who didn't even have the correct insurance to be performing work on a roof. Also what is your preference on roofing a valley? California, Open, Closed Cut, Woven? Fantastic job bro. Keep up the good work.
In the valleys, I torch down a half a roll of modified bitumen, of course on roof slopes where I can still walk safely, this way it gives you freedom what type of valley you want to go with, regular straight, or California etc.. I strike a chalk line both sides of valley line where I don't want to nail from towards the middle of the valley.
Good video for people starting out shingling. Cutting the wave in the ice shield is necessary, if you don't, you will see it when facing your roof from below. Here in SoCal, we call it 'Fisheye'.
I made a long comment in the first part. If anybody is interested, check it out, especially if you are in a heavy weather area. Regarding starter shingle, we never extend it by the eve more than half inches, about three eights. Start laying down your starter on the opposing side from where you start shingling. This way you only cut it once. And your first shingle still may need a small cut if keyways happen to be offsett less than five or six inches. You can play with the size of your steps a little bit, as you getting nearer to the ridge it becomes less important since rainwater has less momentum. Chalk line I only use if your eve have more than one beginning, lower or higher sections that needs to be flushed once your on open field going up to the ridge. I ensure that my shingles keep a straight vertical line by extending my shingles just a bit higher, like an eight of an inch so I can see the line of the 'reveal' or also called 'exposure 'that guides me when I lay my shingles down.
Hope I was clear, if U have any questions, shoot me up.
I'm a new subscriber to your channel and want to say I like your approach to the attention to detail of what you do. Just a quick question/comment. I do mostly identical to the procedures that you explained. The one thing that I do different that I would be curious about your input on is I always start my starter on the rake first and then I will run across the eve and that will inherently give me my offset of about 7 in. Let me know what you think thank you.
That's good too! I used to do that as well. I let my guys do it np
The shingle packaging has directions on the back of the bundle. Even has pictures!
Can't teach you any of the stuff I showed her today!
I have done a lot of roofs but I guess I was doing it wrong, my nails too close to the seams. Thanks, I like the way you teach.
You are a kick ass teacher. Also pretty cool we're nearby eachother I am in chicagoland area but have been working in NW indiana a bit lately. Thanks for the helpful tips and taking the time to educate
Thank you!
Hey man I’ve been watching your videos for a while now, I’ve been a general contractor doing interior and exterior remodeling . I currently transitioning over to doing roofs, soffit and gutters kind of like you. It’s just more stressful trying to do everything (interior and exterior) do you have any tips or suggestions for getting more leads on roofs and exterior jobs? I’m currently in indianapolis IN . Props to you man you’re my inspiration 💯💪🏽
-American Brothers Roofing and Construction
Or how can I put myself out there? I know it’s pretty late in the season but this upcoming summer I want to put 100% into exterior only
oh right on! and yea i mean you can always push content and engage on facebook. ask for reviews from past and current clients. maybe even get a lead generator like home advisor or something..not the best idea but i've always had it and as long as you make the calls and monitor it closely it should be profitable
May not work for everyone but word of mouth was my bread and butter. When you know what you're doing and take pride in your work like this guy does the calls keep coming. I ran a small operation (regrettably) too afraid to bite off more than I could chew or have to keep laying people off. Just my experiance. Either way the best of luck to you brother! Keep on keepin on.
Do you guys ever use quick start? I think it works pretty good although it's sticky so on a hot day you better get it right. This stuff seems a little more forgiving. Great job btw.
i only use the break away starter shingles like in this video
I just watched one of the segments shingling this roof. Very good instruction. I watched because my garage roof is in bad shape more along one side than the other because of an awning that was screwed down into the roof. Really upsetting. Good video though.👍✌
Great instruction! We have a 13 pitch slate roof on the abandoned mansion we are restoring. We will continue to watch in case you ever do a slate roofing video so we can get some pointers. One of our videos is named "How NOT to do Slate". =)
oh i wanna check it out! i don't do slate though
The first and only rule to laying slate is Don’t!!😂
If you cut the ice and water shield - like you did to remove the bubbling - doesn’t that break the seal and defeat the purpose of the ice and water shield? Now you can get leaks in that seam, correct? I’m about to shingle a man-cave shed for the first time and appreciate the time you take to explain these things.
Question about starter shingles: have you ever used the starters that are on a roll? It's one continuous roll that relies on adhesive only apparently. Why or why not? Thanks
You might struggle trying to use that in my opinion. Maybe not on a cooler day or first thing in the morning but I don't personally prefer it. It'll do the same thing so no sweat if you already bought it
Been years since I shangled, but I'm gonna have to get on it again this coming year on my own home. Thanks a bunch for all your videos, brotha!
Good to see you on here again
perfect simpli perfect .................................
Have you ever come across a roof that didn't measure the same from the eave to the ridge when laying out where you will snap your lines? How do you make the adjustment so the shingles look OK towards the top of the roof?
gradually change the adjustment on the high side...lower the line a touch and snap for every shingle until its straight if its real bad
Exposing tar on starter was good. I'll give u that
I have to redo my mothers roof. It's going to be by myself. The only part I'm scared of is replacing a section of rotted plywood. Lol. Thanks for making these vids though.
u can do it.
What do you think about using impact resistant shingles, diy. Pros and cons. Thanks
Even not being new, I find it's best to do one task to completion if possible. You get in a groove and it ends up being faster in my experience. I'd rather not switch between laying shingles and then going over to do drip-edge or starter or whatever. Better to just lay all of one thing first, then go to the next.
absolutely! its a great technique to become efficient
Once you know how each piece goes, I like doing it as I go to stay more efficient..but I do agree with finishing each task to become familiar.
The essential craftsman said it best. If you have a dozen pieces to measure, measure them all! Dont measure one, cut one, then measure the next.
@@Brian-420 yessir! My next video is inspired by him. 36 minute video of me setting a world record
@ 15:10 if you do 11&1/4 every two rows wouldnt that drop every 2nd row 1/4 inch droping the tar line off the smooth part onto the granuals? wouldnt the seal strip be better off on the smooth part rather then the granuals?
Good stuff. With the starters, you should always nail as close as you can to the edge without puncturing the drip edge or rake metal. I've seen lots of guys who nail on the top 2" and that's wrong nail placement, the whole point of a starter shingle is to hold that bottom half of the shingle down from the wind, and to cover the seams of course, but if you high nail the hell out of it, it lessens the strength of staying on at higher winds.
Buh when you nail in shingle that goes to starter as well
@@sachgohlan2580 You don't think I know that? That's literally what happens with every shingle. The headlamp of the shingle underneath, even though it's only like 2", gets nails in it from the shingle above.
If you actually read what I said, I said that the bottom half of the starter would be completely loose if you don't nail within a inch of the bottom (starting after your overhang) and thats the only thing holding the half that's closest to the eaves, from wind pulling up on it. Although it's not very common for shingles to blow out at the eaves. That's like putting cap down without any seal strip on the ends to hold it down from the wind.
yea i try to nail close, but back in the day i used to nail high because i was worried about my shingle seam landing where a nail was. never had a problem with the high nails but yea its definitely much stronger when you nail closer to the bottom. thats why i stressed the importance of the starter being the same length as the shingle. its crazy that manufacturers even have different lengths between starter and shingles. if everything was the same length guys would have no problem low nailing on the starter.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I agree. Then there's just some guys who prefer buying the cheaper branded starter to save $3 a bundle, even if the starter and the laminated shingle are different sizes. I get that it can save $50 but that compared to making the installers have to worry about it and having to either cut back and add a starter in, or watch their nail placement entirely doesn't match up and gets annoying haha
@Josh I didn't read it properly. My bad
hello there my friend but i noticed that when you snapped out for your first 5 rows of shingles you had said it was 5 5/8 x 5 is 281/4 and your second control line should have been at 561/2 or am i wrong??? you said 28 for the first line and 56 for the second which is it
Yea what I did was dropped it a little bit so that it will cover any imperfections a new shingler might have. If I made it exact and a new shingler was trying to do it they probably would struggle. By lowering it a little it's more dummy proof and still unnoticeable
U can also fold the bubbles over and nail it down to get rid of the bubbles instead of cutting and it works through sane
Hey, VC. Is there any way to schedule a call? I think I’m getting scammed on my roof and need some guidance. From one vet to another.
zack.ahearn.az@gmail.com send your number
I noticed how when you left off the 1/8th that about 8rows up you came off an inch from the control line. So if you just run parrallel to the control line its still serving the same purpuse right?
With a correctly driven roofing nail, should you be able to feel the edges of the nail head or should it be truly flush to the shingle face? Nailing guides show the head just above the shingle face and use the term “flush”, but that’s not flush. Same question for roof sheathing and decking nails. Awesome videos and thanks!
Sheathing nails usually naturally penetrate a little bit but flush is okay. You can always hand bang one and that's roughly what you're trying to emulate with the gun. for shingles it's pretty much the same but you don't want a crater around the nail. Even with an adjustment on the gun and proper pressure from the compressor, it's hard to get a perfectly consistent nail depth. It's okay if the shingle dimples around the nail slightly but you don't want that crater around the head, that's a blow through and has no strength
@@NWIVeteranConstruction thanks! I just bought a Metabo roofing nailer and it consistently puts the nail head just a little proud off the shingle surface. I was going to return it for a Bostitch thinking it might not be powerful enough, but it sounds like it’s good to go. Thanks again.
@@usmc2msu213 that's exactly why I switched to Bostich, Hitachi shoots em good for a second then you need the hammer a bunch. I found that if you really pound it a little extra hard it will mostly prevent that
@@NWIVeteranConstruction On that note, the Metabo is getting swapped out for sure. Thanks again!
@@usmc2msu213 well keep in mind, Hitachi is a little more reliable. Less problems, especially in the colder weather.
"It's plenty good for me in real life" (the pink chalk line). Wouldn't it be best to use a more distinct color?
Another purpose for starters is for win resistance. Especially for the 1st row of shingles.
So always remember to read your bundles for warranty specs as they differ for different states and countries!!
How do you suggest cutting back overhang on a re roof to put on drip edge? I’ve used a circular saw and it burns out blades too quickly.
What do you mean? The circular saw part confused me
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I cut the overhang off with a circular saw to put the drip edge over the existing roof. I've see people use a machete to cut back the overhang but that doesn't work very well.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction in other words, how would you go about making the bottom edge flush with the roof to install the drip edge, so you don't see the old shingles overhang. I'm in az so our roofs look a little different, plus we have AC units on 99% of our roofs.
@@SFUPodcast az is rough for sure. I grew up there never roofed though. Uhm, honestly, I would just know the first rib on the drip edge and break it off so that it goes under the shingles but isn't long enough to hit a nail. Then face nail it. I have a video on installing a second layer that might help you. I prefer not to do a roof over. I actually pass them up often
@@NWIVeteranConstruction I do all the roofs by myself so the guy selling jobs mainly gets roof over jobs [as long as it's only 1 layer and the substrate looks okay] because it's less of a headache. I do tear off a lot but a 30 Sq house with 2 layers by myself in 125 degree heat isn't ideal haha.
Great video I'd lap a piece of i&w if you do have to slice it like that
not a bad idea
@@NWIVeteranConstruction prob really doesn't matter but wouldn't hurt
@@ivtec845 yea I mean, Ice and water seals to the decking really good so it's pretty dang good at that. Not to mention, water should never really get there anyway. If it does all the nails in the roof are gonna get to it as well
I use leftover termination tape from skylights if it’s cold out but anything above 75 degrees and it’s going to reseal instantly
When you cut the bubble in the ice and water isn't it supposed to overlap a foot atleast?
What about the adjustment in the lines for the ridge?
What is the reason for running starter strip up the rake edges?
Is ice and water shield at the eaves commonly used in milder climates like California?
I can't speak for them but I doubt it. It's typically used in cold climates where ice damming is common
I use the end of my roofing knife to measure how much the starter sticks out which is a little less than half inch.
Sadly, i would think the bubble cutting on the ice and water would fail inspection. You're supposed to lap side edge by at least 4 to 6 inches. When you cut the bubble and stick one side over another the lap is maybe a quarter inch.
If youre going to cut bubbles i eould think you would have to put a 6 inch wide piece under the bubble, and then lay the two pieces from the bubble cut over that piece.
2:59 Zak. My roof is sheated with 1/2 inch Plywood. Will 1 inch nails be long enough, or will they show on the underside of the eaves.
I can't think of many scenarios where you would want to use a shorter nail so that it's not visible, typically nails are going to penetrate all the way through decking and I'm pretty sure most code requires it to. However, a shorter nail MIGHT be the move in some unique situations where there is somehow a finished wood involved that the nails will Penetrate and show through... but typically you would use 1¼ in. Coil roofing nails for shingles, and if you need to secure your half inch decking you would use 8 penny nails or 2⅜ gun nails, preferably ring shanked.
Do you not have soffit That covers the wood? Like, your plywood is just exposed in the eaves?
The plywood is exposed in the eaves.
I am using Owen's Corning Duration shingles with weather guard on the first 2 rows from the drip edge and Pro Armour for my underlayment. I think that 1 inch should work in the eaves. Then 1 1/4 in the field.
Yes nothing covering the soffit. Just the exposed Plywood on the bottom side.
Why are starters used? Years ago we never used them. Curious!
So easy, a Cave-woman could do it!
Haha
@@NWIVeteranConstruction
A cave woman, (lols) am 64 with a bad back, and I think I am going to try this! Geezzz
How come u don’t jus hook the drip and mark 7? Or 7.25 if ur doing 1/2”?
It's Gatta be done this way. Like I said the easier math is multiples of 11 and done every other row
I am an Indiana Boy myself about to do 14 square on my mobile home just . have not done anything like this since i worked in the roofing trade in my early 20s then mid 20s became a welder
You use roofing nails for everything?
Hey Zach, how long of a line can you pop?
?
If you lay out your ice and watershield let it sit for 5 mins you wont have bubbles.
Then use fasteners after
I cant believe you guys stick with that 3/8 .925 two stones and one bear nipple stuff. Life is so much easier over here in the real world.
Lol WHAT
All the roofing video's I watch have a long straight edge. I was wanting to know how to start if it is straight and then recedes 2 foot and then continues straight, these are usually a over hang or just the way the house is not a square. I am 63 years old and need to put a new roof on but when I have roofers come out and measure it has come to my attention that my roof is 24 sq. , 26 sq., 29 sq, and so on, math is math. Hope you can answer my question even though this video is from 2 years ago. I happen to know my roof is 23 squares. It seems like tipping at $650.00 a square when I get these high square counts, will be looking for a answer, thanks.
I'm not 100% sure how to answer that, but you can watch my videos and find out how to start from all different situations, and you just have to use your basics and fundamentals to figure it out
Fair enough, I have been watching and will be able to figure it out, thanks for taking the time to respond, be safe.@@NWIVeteranConstruction
Bro the underlayment on the gable goes over the drip 😝
nah, doesn't really matter to me personally i've done it every way but in general this is the rule. exactly how i did it.
@@NWIVeteranConstruction oh but it does, if it leaks and tracks to the gable it will most likely go under the drip and onto the gable facia board. If you start putting metal on. Finish it don't stop halfway and start laying underlayment
@@NWIVeteranConstruction you should know better
start with a half starter, long time worry?
Why do hot dog buns come in 8 packs, but hot dogs in 10 packs? Some might say why do starter shingles not match the length of asphalt shingles .
My shingles was just newly installed , but it still leaks to the ceiling, what causes it.? Pls help my roof installer
Why is there a bubble in the ice and water shield if you are a veteran roofer.?
Shingle starter is for newbys ,turn a shingle upside down and use it as one then you can nail down the starter and top shingle at the same time and
6" overlap is what is recommended.
Shingle starter is the way to go. Your way is old school. And Ice and water shield will always bubble when left over night or even if the sun goes away for an hour. It was cooler out when I installed it so there was no sun. A veteran roofer worthy of offering advice would've already known that
@@NWIVeteranConstruction The old school ways were when things were done right by union roofers,none of them would use a starter shingle like that and if they ran them up the rake like you did,thinking they were going to hold shingles down they would be told to go down and clean up the ground and labor for the job and leave the roofing to the guys who knew what they were doing,you must remember one thing,them roofs that you throw together because you like to show everyone how fast you think you can use a nail gun will be replaced by someone else in 15-18 yrs because shingles are cheap quality coverups,nothing more then that,we replaced a shingle roof with a metal roof and now the homeowner has something that will last a lifetime and be proud of having it on their home.
I have seen many guys like you who have ego's about putting shingles on with a nail gun and bragging about how good they think they are, nobody really cares,I know a few mexicans who can nail damn near twice as fast as you can but they do not brag about it,they just move onto the next job.
Is it safe for someone to be inside the house while getting new roofing because im gettting mine done.
Yes you will be fine. It's loud af though, i recommend getting out of there awhile when the shingles start going down.
🥰🥰🥰
3:14 What kind of nails? I didn't understand the middle word. "Inch and a quarter [---?] nails." I know of some guys who use 3" nails, and the only reason I can see is cause they have to be long in order to get past the magnetic hammer head so that they can make that first hit without holding the nail with their left hand. I don't think they had any kind of hydraulics.
regular roofing nails are 1 1/4 inch.
How do you handle hand nail requests? How do you price a roof if the customer is adamant that no nail guns be used?
i don't. there is absolutely no benefit to hand nailing a roof. useless. I'll walk away lol you gatta explain to them that nobody does that anymore. i wouldn't do it if they paid me an extra 3k. no way. don't got the time for that. the nails in the guns have barbs on them that the help prevent the nails from pulling up (hand nails don't)..the guns have a depth adjustment on them to prevent overdriven and under driven nails...if that's not good enough the compressors have a pressure adjustment. so nails should be going in flush without issue...the tar on the shingles now a days is wayy better than it used to be (see GAF's wind test using barely any nails) so the tar plays an equal if not more important part than the nails...i just don't get it. some people are stuck in the past and some old school companies will offer it as an upsell and they really believe its a better roof system for some reason. dumb af
@@NWIVeteranConstruction It was last year mid covid and the old guy had his warranty claim was denied because of "too many blow throughs". I did the job time and material at $X/hr per guy. He also provided the nails to be hand nailed. They were copper. For architectural. I never had the request before but I did it. I'm a 3 guy on the books operation. I made out ok. The guy had rolls of I&W shield in his garage he bought in 2012 to cover the entire roof. It was the strangest job I ever did. He had an existing lightning rod system he paid us to replace made of 3/4' braided copper and 4 copper spikes or whatever they are called with 2 grounding rods on each side of the house seperate from the actual grounding rods for his panel. He was the most overkill homeowner I ever met. He was a vet and a widower. He also gave me a Contender in 357 maximum that used to be his deer gun because I noticed a mount in his living room eith a bunch of brass and reloading dies. He calls me a couple times a month to chat about whatever.
haha thats awesome! i had a few of those types of people. some good some bad things lol
I would just tell em I dont use a Bostich..Hitachi, metabo, or a super roofer only
I'm a retired builder/remodeler who's done more than my share of roofs. I AM one of those "old" guys who had to predominantly nail by hand "back in the day". This was mainly because nail guns were new or just coming into play. Plus, the original nailers were HEAVY. I had a Bostich framing nailer that was so damn heavy that the ROCK or ARNOLD would have had trouble muscling those bastards around. Of course, in time, the weight and ease of improved nailers made using them imperative. All the reasons you outlined for using nail guns are valid. The biggest drawback of nailing by hand is the ARTHRITIS and potential CARPEL TUNNEL you'll face growing older. I know. Feeling some of that now. There's a reason progress is called progress. Some people resist change because they're stuck in time. These are the people still riding horses to work.
Are you this job or over 45 years this guy's pretty good but I've always put my starters on and running up the gable no stop lines You do it long enough and can't keep it straight and something's wrong with you. I very rarely use the snap line My roofs can help beautiful
That shingle is an OC SURE NAIL with the enbedded cloth.
Also our warranty does not allow for a hangover on the rakes
Con esa paciencia seteba meter el sol
What color is that shingle anyway?
Hey, can someone help me? I'm in a little trouble. I did some brief work with a roofer years ago, and decided to do my own roof on my large detached garage. I have a messed up foot/ankle, so it's been difficult to stand on the roof. So, it's been very slow going. I did facia, replaced decking, and dried in. But almost daily for the last 6 weeks, we've had rain in the forecast. So I've been hesitant to start shingling cause I know it might take me 4-5 days. I remember the roofer I worked with use to do something with small pieces of underlayment to prevent water from getting under the shingles... but I can't find any info/video illustrating that technique. I know there's likely better techniques out there too. I did see one video where someone essentially set up a tarp tent over the roof and worked in the rain. Besides needing to spend 200-300 hundred on supplies/tarps to do something like that, we usually have high wind when the storms roll in. A tarp tent would blow away. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and any direction y'all can steer me will be greatly appreciated.
Watch part 3. I make the shingle process very easy for you. When you shingle, do like 5 - 10 rows to start with, and finish all the way across. That way you have a level line of shingles you can just put felt over instead of dealing with the stair steps. It'll be much easier that way
@@NWIVeteranConstruction brilliant! Thanks for the reply, I feel honored! I watched a ton of your videos before even starting. But never thought to paper over the shingle like that. Any tips for what you described? Do I just nail into the center of the shingle? Should I worry about the holes left from the nails when I pull up the felt? Would 1 row of felt be enough, or should I go all the way up to the peak so water doesn't get behind it, and still creep behind the shingles? I know I'm probably over-thinking this, lol.
@@johndespard3477 is barely even necessary. I'd honestly try to get somebody over to help if I were you. But yea the felt thing is barely necessary. If you go that route, stop your shingles under a row of felt, that way you can just pop the bottom of that felt loose, add a strip of felt that's 1 foot or so. And nail it with cap nails, obviously not making the shingle faces themselves. Just nail intelligently. But you Gatta get moving man if it's taking that long. Might be worth it to find a roofer to shingle, I bet somebody will come out for 20 a square to help if they're just a random roofer
@@NWIVeteranConstruction Thanks. Yeah, huh... I should just go for it. We keep having these days where it's gorgeous until about 3pm. But then it rains, and soaks everything. So the next morning it's gorgeous again, but the roof is wet. Rain is on the forecast all this week. Friday and Saturday look okay, but it seems to take a day or two for the roof to dry out. By then, it's raining again. It's only 6 squares. So yeah, that'd be incredible if I could get someone that cheap. All the hard stuff is done. Jacked the roof, did the deck, and the facia was a real bitch. They never did anything to protect the ends of the rafters. They were exposed and rotting. Plus nothing was square from the saddled roof. Pushed the walls out a bit. I pulled them in the best I could... but it's still a little funky. I respect what you guys do, and I love your videos! I've been hoping to finish the job myself, but yeah maybe I'll swallow my pride and hire someone.
Great video!! You need to get a microphone!!!!! :)
Also ne er overlap shingles or starters