Couple of ideas on the flyers....just some ideas to be used singly or together.....1.) Use a Waltz resizing die and make sure to get exactly the same bullet diameter by squishing the bullet down and it expands to a uniform 0.225" in the die. Doing this also assures concentricity of the bullet, which ( if it's not perfect) can account for flyers. 2.) Shoot off a bag, and not a front bipod. 3.) Load rounds singly to avoid bullet "Scratch" while feeding from a mag. All ( or none) may have an impact on your quest....but it's worth a try...an experiment to see how it goes.
@@RimfireSS i did the math and i couldn't build it for cheaper so i bought one. haven't lapped it, but i did slick up the action. might replace the cheap scope they come with. otherwise, I'm VERY happy with that zombie green stock and how it shoots
I’ve had weird vertical stringing at times in the past using a rear bag and bipod up front . My research at the time seemed to point to inconsistent hold and loading of the bipod . Might be worth trying to adjust tension on bipod or trying off of sandbags front and rear to see if makes a difference.
I bought this rifle several years ago at Walmart. I've only taken it out once. Unfortunately, the wind was exceeding 30 MPH that day, and I'm of the impression that the Savage Mk II's don't like Federal Automatch. Under those circumstances/conditions, the rifle would not group at all. I look forward to testing it with CCI SV, Wolf Match, SK, and Aguila Target. I still have high expectations of this rifle -- I don't get discouraged easily. Regarding flyers. I recommend testing the barrel independently, by loading each round into the chamber individually, like a single shot target rifle. This might rule out issues with magazine loading. Great video! Thanks!
@@AirGunVic I like to test the rifle the way its intended and designed to be shot. If I have to do things like single load to get it to group I’ll get rid of it. Unfortunately, even after all the work I did to the barrel it’s very inconsistent. The barrel was so bad there is still a bunch of chatter that causes the barrel to lead up very fast. Been doing this for a long time now and I’ve found that just spending alittle more money and buying the better rifle is worth it. I should have bought the fluted barrel TR version would have been the better choice. I was trying to show people that you don’t have to spend a bunch to get into the sport, but I have since found buying the cheapest rifle is not a very good option. Now I got a lemon, some guys get these and there good shooters, I unfortunately was not one of them.
People always laugh at Savage Rifles, they are not the prettiest but as you have shown, they can shoot with a little love................... $5K vs $500, I can live with.500 groups !! Thanks for sharing
Thanks!! After watching your last video on this gun I broke out my Savage MK II BV and took it out. I was getting about 1 inch groups at 75 yards with Remington Thunderbolts of all things. I tried it again with some Eley Tenx and results were the same. I did not foul the barrel though. I didn't have enough of the Tenex to do that. My friend had just bought FV-SR and we were sighting in the scope so I brought mine out. The bad thing is I forgot my camera so no video on it.
AHA ! the ever enduring search for accuracy. Read a lot of the comments. I would say most of the advice that you have received in the comment section is Sound. I would also try lapping the bore with j B. b o r e paste and see what that would do. tuners , ammo, trigger. Headspace critical on a 22lr. action screw torque settings.
On centerfire bullet/case concentricity of .001 or less cuts a lot of flyers out of groups. I might try this with my Hornady Concentricity kit (it has the function of straightening alignment).
My FV, in a Boyd’s Agility, Riton X1 Conquer scope, shot best with Lapua CenterX. At 50 yards, on a NRA 50 yard smallbore target, score of 50, 5 X’s, .417 inch spread. The Eley Tenex, scored 49. It dropped one flyer into the 9 ring, with a .588 spread. Now I want to lap mine, seeing your results.
I would pillar bed it first. A few good cleanings with some Jb bore paste would help finish it up also. Could also be headspace. Measure a fired case rim to see how close it is.
Great video Don! Lots of good advice already shared. Bottom metal and action bedding, pillars, tweaking may tighten up the groups. Ammo weight and measuring. I am not a fan. The high end 22lr ammo should already have quality control beyond my capability. Love the green stock.
mine leaded up like yours. after some research i bought kroil and J-b bore paste. not only did it clean it up very well, it doesn't lead up nearly as fast now... not sure why but the claim turned out to be true. cheers
I have the stainless btvs model and like others have mentioned getting the dip bottom magazine plate will help. Mine shot best at 25 inch pounds and the factory plate was bending really bad so I went with the dip. The dip plate is a 1/8 thick and will help hold the action in place. I also put pillars, bedded my action. There’s a video on RUclips superheterodyne that shows a easy way to add support pads and while doing that I went ahead and bedded my action and added pillars. The two center support pads usually doesn’t make contact on the boyds stocks and that bedding will take care of that shown In the video. My trigger pull is around the 14oz area with the mod and I wish I could get it down more but I’m satisfied with it. My rifle will shoot continuous .250-.375 5 shot groups so it’s worth doing. I shot a ara card the other day with a 250/12 x’s. Appreciate the video, I may try lapping my rifle at some point.
I have done exactly the same with my mark ii and am getting the same results. Took it and had it lot tested at Lapua for center x....wow, it's a shooter!
@@RimfireSS the DIP plate is thicker but still only addresses the forward action screw - the rear action screw still attaches through the wood stock only. It's a simple thing to pick up a piece of 1" x .125" steel at a hardware store and make your own plate that actually holds both action screws and eliminates compressing the wood stock altogether.
Don, this is from a limited sample, but I had two rifles that were throwing the one flyer . For the longest time I thought it was me . I found action torque settings that got rid of most of them . Really odd too , as one of the rifles was in an xrs chassis . It shot better at 30 in lbs that at 25 or 35. I honestly didn’t expect it to make a difference in a chassis but it did . Another thing to check is to see if one of the rounds is getting damaged in feeding . I didn’t review the video closely , but if it was a feed problem, I’d expect the same round in the mag to be the flyer most often . Let us know what you learn and thanks for another fine video .
Hey Don. I just caught your channel and this video caught my eye. I bought a savage mark ll from walmart a couple years ago that looks very simular to your build. It came in a Boyds zombie green At-One hybrid stock and weaver 3x9x40mm scope. Its some kinda walmart deal. Anyway it was like 350 dollars and l thought it shot great for what it is. Its been in the closet for couple years now. After seeing this lm now gonna take it out and rescope it aand do some lapping to see what happens. Glad l saw this now.
@@WilliamSquires-fc4kp so. Your in for some work my friend. I spent hours on this and it does shoot great for maybe 100 rounds, then the imperfect chatter I couldn't get out collects lead and it's off to cleaning again. And the cleaning takes awhile. If I had it to do over again I would have bought the TR model with the fluted barrel. Way better rifle and barrel. I tried to show people they didn't have to spend $800 to get into a decent rifle, but in the end as always, you get what u pay for. If you need a project and have time, have at it. But just fair warning the juice isn't worth the squeeze. I should probably make an update to this video
Hey Don. Thanks for the response ! Ok I get it. What what be your response to a better barrel all together ? Idk what my options would be with that ? I bought the gun basically to shoot varmit with at closer ranges. I shoot a custom built Remington 700bdl 220 swift. Shooting ground hogs and occasionally a prairie dog trip out west. I just put a Discovery opts 5-25x56 ED scope on it after seeing this video. Think oma play with ammo now since reading your response. I mean I'm not complaining bc it does shoot pretty good for what I'm using it for. Thanks so much and now I watch ur channel all the time too. 😅
Weight sort your ammo. Those fliers can be eliminated all together. While higher end offerings like the RWS tend to have less variation, it's still present. Only way to eliminate it all together is to weigh each round and sort into groups of like weights with no more than .02 variation. In gram weight my best performing ammo weight for 2 of my rifles are weights of 3.31-3.33. If I mix in a 3.28, guaranteed flyer. Do what you want with this info Don but I have spent years researching and testing this sharing with those that will listen. A retired USMC Scout Sniper in one of my gun groups became a true believer after I convinced him to weight sort the cheapest ammo he had, Aguila SE 40 gr LRN. He contacted me after a range trip to thank me. He was absolutely dumbfounded at the groups he shot with that ammo that day. His preferred competition ammo is SK Rifle Match. That day the Aguila turned in better groups than the SK. He competes in PRS and 22NRL with rifles that run up to $5,000 so he knows what he is doing. Lot of viewers will call BS and that's fine, like I said do what you want with this info. Enjoy all your videos.
@@RimfireSS like I told my Marine buddy, nothing ventured nothing gained. Killer budget build also. I have a purple At-One Thumb hole on one of mine its sick accurate and looks amazing doing it lol
Same rifle, same stock (dif color) Arken GenII SH4J. Shooting CCI standard, .3" or less at 50yds. I'm in disbelief. My 457 is intimidated. Oh, less the 200 rnds down the bore. Waiting for the wheels to fall off. Getting ready to run some of the good stuff through it. Can't imagine it being any better.
After watching your video first video with special match managed to get some it shoots great at 202 meters. Great job on the barrel it's shooting great 👍
Increase the action screws torque to 30 in/lbs. You will need the DIP heavy metal kit. My TR in the same stock shoots 1/2moa at 100 yds. The Harrell's tuner really helps. It loves SABRP and two lots of Rifle Match.
Most of the old school .22lr tuners aren't threaded. You just open up the collar to fit th OD of the barrel (~ +.002) and tighten a pinch bolt. You see the old 6 and 9 oz harrel tuners on e-bay pretty regularly. Almost all of them are opened up 1-1.25" already...but you could machine an aluminum bushing just to test the concept. Really enjoying your videos.
I kinda wish Savage and Marlin both would go ahead and drop their current line of bolt action 22s and replace them with a more modern design with just a tad thicker receiver walls and a more modern action in general. The 780 series Marlins had such a thin receiver tube the action would flex on trigger pull. Instead of fixing the issue they did a work around and put in a second action screw.
Hello Don, I missed this video . . . . Must have been obsessing with the Flyswatter challenge. The barrel/stock/bedding/ammo etc looks to me like it's "trying to shoot" and is being let down by something else If the rifle were mine I'd be looking very carefully at the internals of the bolt to reduce fliers. . . A clean up of the bolts internal machine marks and a check of the timing (is the striker going right forward each time or is it maybe hanging up because the cocking cam isn't rotating exactly the same each shot) has paid much greater dividends for me than the current fads of pillar bedding and shimming headspace. Cheers
That Zombie Green stock looks nice! I never would have considered going with a color like that. Makes me want to pick up one of these MKii FVs and play with upgrades. Lead lapping seems like a very involved process from the videos I've watched. Do you have a video that goes over how you do it? Do you think that JB bore cleaning compound would achieve similar results or is it not aggressive enough to knock out the tooling marks compared to lead lapping? Thanks!
I normally would have bought that color either but I seen it in another rifle and fell in love with it. I don’t have a video because there’s already so many other good ones on the subject. The nice thing about lead lapping is you get both the grooves and the lands. With JB bore paste you mainly get the lands but sometimes that’s enough. You could try it and see if it works. I lead lapped it because the chatter was bad on both the grooves and the lands and that was the only way to keep that lead from building up. It was somewhat involved but I only had a few hours into it.
Did you use lapping compound when you lapped it? Soft lead isn't going to do much again hard steel on its own. In my aerospace machine shop we sometimes lap a spline with cast iron blanks & lapping compound (porosity of cast iron will hold the lapping compound).
What length barrel is that? I just ordered a mkII fv-sr last night with a 16 barrel. Hoping it shoots well. If so I’ll put a better stock on it and have some fun.
@ Thank you Don. I’m waiting on a Savage fv-sr mkii to ship from Louisiana. Hoping it has a good barrel so I can add a decent stock and scope to do some bench shooting. You, Josh, and Mr. Revolver Guy gave me the bug. 😀
It’s the one used on the CZ 457 LRP I believe, got it on eBay. If I can find the link I’ll post it. www.ebay.com/itm/293149960061?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7DgSK2foR9K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-GzQQSU9QV2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It slips over the one on you rifle currently.
How long were you lapping and how many laps did you have to cast? We’re you able to get a bore diameter. The groves should lap with the lands. I did a restoration for a family, more for appearance than shooting, they wanted the original barrel it shot but bullets had very little rifling engagement. If you have a place I can send you photos of a customers rifle from Savage, I’ve never seen anything that rough and they refused a return, or to sell me parts. It soured me on them as a company. I’m glad to see your getting somewhere
@@RimfireSS Its a project you got a lot of marks out of it. Im anxious to see what the 100 and + targets look like, I mean if you get moa at 100 its ok for NRL22
Actually it’s a tad better now with the Rifle Match. But other ammunition it’s night and day. Rifle match was all I could get to shoot decent but now it shoots everything good.
I thought it was shooting good from the start? Savage knows something or they wouldn't be around still, but they've always been a value kind of company from what I've seen. Lead lapping? Won't a good cleaning undo that?
Oh no, lead lapping does the grooves and the lands. You make a cast of your bore and put compound on it. Takes all the rough spots down and smoothed out everything evenly. ruclips.net/video/bO9IvD0y64s/видео.html
Really? Always? Because I recall seeing some Model 99 rifles with AAAA walnut and Savage had the best engraver in N America. My 115 year old 1899 in 30-30 shoots 2 inch groups at 100 with Marbles peep sight and my 1957 Model 99 with K4 scope is a sub moa rifle. Nothing cheap about old Savage rifles.
Don, I was wondering if you have gone forward on this video (rifle); what did you find on the firing pin strikes on fired cases? I want to ask you about how and what your were trying to accomplish on lead lapping the bore; did you clean and slug the barrel first to gain a game-plan on what you were to achieve in the process? I would like to more about how all this panned-out. Chuck @@RimfireSS
@@Chuck_Carolina I did clean and slug the barrel before I lapped it. My Objective was to clean up all the rough spots in the rifling so it wouldn’t pick up so much lead while I shot it. The barrel was already accurate. I’m getting good primer strikes and the rifle shoots sub moa out to 200 yards with Lapua Long range. I replaced the bottom metal with the DIP one and put the Apache trigger kit in it which brought it down to 12oz. Not much more to be told. I don’t plan on bedding the stock The rifle shoots great and I’ve gone as far as I plan to with it.
Seen some good results reported from people checking this. A mkii I've seen had the strikes over lapping the edge of the rim. The case was quite a loose fit in the chamber, probably at the loose end of SAMMI spec. Compare it to a match chamber and you'll know what i mean.This would obviously force the case sideways in the chamber with the bulge in the rim. The headspace on SK could have been tightened by at least 0.004 thou on that rifle when checked. If you have one check what you have as it may be different. The entry to the chamber is also very Sharp on the examples I've seen. They need a slight chamfer or radius to ease the entry of the round and stop any scratching.
Additional comment regarding your measurements around the 14 minute mark: I'm not sure how you were getting "0.375" or "0.6." and if that is supposed to me MOA or what. Those were shot at 50 yards, right? When you pointed at your targets with your fingers the relative spacing looked more like double those numbers on some of them. You need (approximately) 0.5" at 50 yards for 1 MOA. Right? So .23 MOA would measure .115 across the weirdest spaces holes, right? Or was this the actual measurement, or did you average the measurement between each 5 shot group? I'm confused about your methods to get those numbers. Please tell me what I'm missing. Thanks so much! Lastly and aside from all that... Great shooting!
Still shoots great. I do have to clean it quite abit more than the more expensive rifles. You can only do so much with a chattered barrel. I probably should have gone up a grade to get the better barrel. Lesson learned
It is free floated. But it does run quite close to the stock. I’m not sure how much of a issue the “flier” actually is. I’ve been shooting this rifle a lot and it’s pretty consistent.
No offense intended but It looks to me like your group measurements are significantly off. If that is the standard rimfire target then that center circle is a half inch across. When you compare that to your groups even in the ones where the group is clearly larger than that circle by a significant amount you're still measuring less than 0.5 CTC. Even through experience in measuring .22 groups your measurements look significantly too small. Sure you didn't zero out the calipers for a different size bullet?
I’ve been measuring from the center of each of the two bullets furthest apart. When I measure the outside of the group and take the bullet size out there even smaller then when I measure center to center. All I can say is it’s easy to say the measurements don’t look right when your looking at a video.
Couple of ideas on the flyers....just some ideas to be used singly or together.....1.) Use a Waltz resizing die and make sure to get exactly the same bullet diameter by squishing the bullet down and it expands to a uniform 0.225" in the die. Doing this also assures concentricity of the bullet, which ( if it's not perfect) can account for flyers. 2.) Shoot off a bag, and not a front bipod. 3.) Load rounds singly to avoid bullet "Scratch" while feeding from a mag. All ( or none) may have an impact on your quest....but it's worth a try...an experiment to see how it goes.
I’ve tried all but trying to resize.
I'm impressed. That stock looks nice. Rifle seems to shoot well above its pay grade!
It does shoot very well. One of my favorites.
this exact rifle but with a threaded barrel is currently sold at walmart for 453 bucks and so far i love it
That’s awesome, there good rifles. Some are better than others but for the most part most are very accurate.
@@RimfireSS i did the math and i couldn't build it for cheaper so i bought one. haven't lapped it, but i did slick up the action. might replace the cheap scope they come with. otherwise, I'm VERY happy with that zombie green stock and how it shoots
We have room of those.
I’ve had weird vertical stringing at times in the past using a rear bag and bipod up front . My research at the time seemed to point to inconsistent hold and loading of the bipod . Might be worth trying to adjust tension on bipod or trying off of sandbags front and rear to see if makes a difference.
I bought this rifle several years ago at Walmart. I've only taken it out once. Unfortunately, the wind was exceeding 30 MPH that day, and I'm of the impression that the Savage Mk II's don't like Federal Automatch. Under those circumstances/conditions, the rifle would not group at all.
I look forward to testing it with CCI SV, Wolf Match, SK, and Aguila Target. I still have high expectations of this rifle -- I don't get discouraged easily.
Regarding flyers. I recommend testing the barrel independently, by loading each round into the chamber individually, like a single shot target rifle. This might rule out issues with magazine loading.
Great video! Thanks!
@@AirGunVic I like to test the rifle the way its intended and designed to be shot. If I have to do things like single load to get it to group I’ll get rid of it. Unfortunately, even after all the work I did to the barrel it’s very inconsistent. The barrel was so bad there is still a bunch of chatter that causes the barrel to lead up very fast. Been doing this for a long time now and I’ve found that just spending alittle more money and buying the better rifle is worth it. I should have bought the fluted barrel TR version would have been the better choice. I was trying to show people that you don’t have to spend a bunch to get into the sport, but I have since found buying the cheapest rifle is not a very good option. Now I got a lemon, some guys get these and there good shooters, I unfortunately was not one of them.
My step dad used to say that lol " you can't polish a turd " priceless !
Lol, we’ll it’s true.
People always laugh at Savage Rifles, they are not the prettiest but as you have shown,
they can shoot with a little love................... $5K vs $500, I can live with.500 groups !!
Thanks for sharing
I’m actually more proud of a cheap rifle that shoots. You expect that accuracy out of a top tier rifle.
Thanks!! After watching your last video on this gun I broke out my Savage MK II BV and took it out. I was getting about 1 inch groups at 75 yards with Remington Thunderbolts of all things. I tried it again with some Eley Tenx and results were the same. I did not foul the barrel though. I didn't have enough of the Tenex to do that. My friend had just bought FV-SR and we were sighting in the scope so I brought mine out. The bad thing is I forgot my camera so no video on it.
At least you got it out and had some fun!
AHA ! the ever enduring search for accuracy. Read a lot of the comments. I would say most of the advice that you have received in the comment section is Sound. I would also try lapping the bore with j B. b o r e paste and see what that would do. tuners , ammo, trigger. Headspace critical on a 22lr. action screw torque settings.
great shooting, i think it may be the mag. seem like every 4th and 5th shot is off. should have tried loading 5 at a time.
On centerfire bullet/case concentricity of .001 or less cuts a lot of flyers out of groups.
I might try this with my Hornady Concentricity kit (it has the function of straightening alignment).
My FV, in a Boyd’s Agility, Riton X1 Conquer scope, shot best with Lapua CenterX. At 50 yards, on a NRA 50 yard smallbore target, score of 50, 5 X’s, .417 inch spread. The Eley Tenex, scored 49. It dropped one flyer into the 9 ring, with a .588 spread. Now I want to lap mine, seeing your results.
It worked well. Shot sub moa at 200 a few days ago. Video will be out soon.
I would pillar bed it first. A few good cleanings with some Jb bore paste would help finish it up also. Could also be headspace. Measure a fired case rim to see how close it is.
Great video Don! Lots of good advice already shared. Bottom metal and action bedding, pillars, tweaking may tighten up the groups. Ammo weight and measuring. I am not a fan. The high end 22lr ammo should already have quality control beyond my capability. Love the green stock.
Damn !! That’s nothing to sneeze at 👍👍👍
mine leaded up like yours. after some research i bought kroil and J-b bore paste. not only did it clean it up very well, it doesn't lead up nearly as fast now... not sure why but the claim turned out to be true. cheers
My FV-SR shoots like a Dream with a Boyd's AT-1 stock and a suppressor.
Thanks Don. I enjoy shooting my MKII as well. Blessings
Honestly love the green stock... it's unique and stands out the bland colors of black, fde, etc. A great choice
I have the stainless btvs model and like others have mentioned getting the dip bottom magazine plate will help. Mine shot best at 25 inch pounds and the factory plate was bending really bad so I went with the dip. The dip plate is a 1/8 thick and will help hold the action in place. I also put pillars, bedded my action. There’s a video on RUclips superheterodyne that shows a easy way to add support pads and while doing that I went ahead and bedded my action and added pillars. The two center support pads usually doesn’t make contact on the boyds stocks and that bedding will take care of that shown In the video. My trigger pull is around the 14oz area with the mod and I wish I could get it down more but I’m satisfied with it. My rifle will shoot continuous .250-.375 5 shot groups so it’s worth doing. I shot a ara card the other day with a 250/12 x’s. Appreciate the video, I may try lapping my rifle at some point.
I’ll get that DIP bottom metal.
I have done exactly the same with my mark ii and am getting the same results. Took it and had it lot tested at Lapua for center x....wow, it's a shooter!
@@mapu7870 I really like this rifle. Most overlooked rifle out there.
@@RimfireSS the DIP plate is thicker but still only addresses the forward action screw - the rear action screw still attaches through the wood stock only. It's a simple thing to pick up a piece of 1" x .125" steel at a hardware store and make your own plate that actually holds both action screws and eliminates compressing the wood stock altogether.
Awesome stuff Don I now will be lapping my Savage 17HMR barrel because it won't hold a 1" group 100yds this video gives me hope at least.
Man, those things usually shoot good. I’ve had lapping do some miraculous things to barrels. Can’t hurt.
I'm thinking headspace. Perhaps a bolt shim might get rid of the fliers. I always use JB and Kroil on new barrels, so try that also.
I have the Pro Varmint thumbhole in Zombie green for my Savage 12FV in 22-250 and love it
Don, this is from a limited sample, but I had two rifles that were throwing the one flyer . For the longest time I thought it was me . I found action torque settings that got rid of most of them . Really odd too , as one of the rifles was in an xrs chassis . It shot better at 30 in lbs that at 25 or 35. I honestly didn’t expect it to make a difference in a chassis but it did . Another thing to check is to see if one of the rounds is getting damaged in feeding . I didn’t review the video closely , but if it was a feed problem, I’d expect the same round in the mag to be the flyer most often . Let us know what you learn and thanks for another fine video .
Rifle feeds perfectly, I’ll check the torque when I get my DIP bottom metal I ordered yesterday. Thanks
Very cool. Thank you for sharing
Hey Don. I just caught your channel and this video caught my eye. I bought a savage mark ll from walmart a couple years ago that looks very simular to your build. It came in a Boyds zombie green At-One hybrid stock and weaver 3x9x40mm scope. Its some kinda walmart deal. Anyway it was like 350 dollars and l thought it shot great for what it is. Its been in the closet for couple years now. After seeing this lm now gonna take it out and rescope it aand do some lapping to see what happens. Glad l saw this now.
@@WilliamSquires-fc4kp so. Your in for some work my friend. I spent hours on this and it does shoot great for maybe 100 rounds, then the imperfect chatter I couldn't get out collects lead and it's off to cleaning again. And the cleaning takes awhile. If I had it to do over again I would have bought the TR model with the fluted barrel. Way better rifle and barrel. I tried to show people they didn't have to spend $800 to get into a decent rifle, but in the end as always, you get what u pay for. If you need a project and have time, have at it. But just fair warning the juice isn't worth the squeeze. I should probably make an update to this video
Hey Don. Thanks for the response ! Ok I get it. What what be your response to a better barrel all together ? Idk what my options would be with that ? I bought the gun basically to shoot varmit with at closer ranges. I shoot a custom built Remington 700bdl 220 swift. Shooting ground hogs and occasionally a prairie dog trip out west. I just put a Discovery opts 5-25x56 ED scope on it after seeing this video. Think oma play with ammo now since reading your response. I mean I'm not complaining bc it does shoot pretty good for what I'm using it for. Thanks so much and now I watch ur channel all the time too. 😅
I've been eye balling this rifle for a while.. great review!
Just do it!!!
You should be proud of it for the money.
Very happy with it.
Looking good now .
Weight sort your ammo. Those fliers can be eliminated all together. While higher end offerings like the RWS tend to have less variation, it's still present. Only way to eliminate it all together is to weigh each round and sort into groups of like weights with no more than .02 variation. In gram weight my best performing ammo weight for 2 of my rifles are weights of 3.31-3.33. If I mix in a 3.28, guaranteed flyer. Do what you want with this info Don but I have spent years researching and testing this sharing with those that will listen. A retired USMC Scout Sniper in one of my gun groups became a true believer after I convinced him to weight sort the cheapest ammo he had, Aguila SE 40 gr LRN. He contacted me after a range trip to thank me. He was absolutely dumbfounded at the groups he shot with that ammo that day. His preferred competition ammo is SK Rifle Match. That day the Aguila turned in better groups than the SK. He competes in PRS and 22NRL with rifles that run up to $5,000 so he knows what he is doing. Lot of viewers will call BS and that's fine, like I said do what you want with this info. Enjoy all your videos.
I value your opinion. Thanks
@@RimfireSS like I told my Marine buddy, nothing ventured nothing gained. Killer budget build also. I have a purple At-One Thumb hole on one of mine its sick accurate and looks amazing doing it lol
Same rifle, same stock (dif color) Arken GenII SH4J. Shooting CCI standard, .3" or less at 50yds. I'm in disbelief. My 457 is intimidated. Oh, less the 200 rnds down the bore. Waiting for the wheels to fall off. Getting ready to run some of the good stuff through it. Can't imagine it being any better.
After watching your video first video with special match managed to get some it shoots great at 202 meters. Great job on the barrel it's shooting great 👍
Special match is awesome
That's a good looking gun, good job!
Thanks Kody.
Increase the action screws torque to 30 in/lbs. You will need the DIP heavy metal kit. My TR in the same stock shoots 1/2moa at 100 yds. The Harrell's tuner really helps. It loves SABRP and two lots of Rifle Match.
Can’t put a tuner on this rifle. No threads. Lol I’m happy with it.
Most of the old school .22lr tuners aren't threaded. You just open up the collar to fit th OD of the barrel (~ +.002) and tighten a pinch bolt.
You see the old 6 and 9 oz harrel tuners on e-bay pretty regularly. Almost all of them are opened up 1-1.25" already...but you could machine an aluminum bushing just to test the concept.
Really enjoying your videos.
@@jonathonschram3429 thanks for the info. And thanks for watching!
I kinda wish Savage and Marlin both would go ahead and drop their current line of bolt action 22s and replace them with a more modern design with just a tad thicker receiver walls and a more modern action in general. The 780 series Marlins had such a thin receiver tube the action would flex on trigger pull. Instead of fixing the issue they did a work around and put in a second action screw.
Yeah, and there B series uses a rotary magazine. I’ll never understand a precision rifle with a rotary magazine is not a good combination.
Now you got me wanting to build a budget rifle! Awesome progress!
Wait till you see Fridays video. Same rifle at 200 yards. Absolutely flabbergasted, in a good way.
I’d love a video on what you did and how
Check head space and cycle a mag through and check for bullet shaving, common problem.
I will. Thanks
Hello Don, I missed this video . . . . Must have been obsessing with the Flyswatter challenge. The barrel/stock/bedding/ammo etc looks to me like it's "trying to shoot" and is being let down by something else If the rifle were mine I'd be looking very carefully at the internals of the bolt to reduce fliers. . . A clean up of the bolts internal machine marks and a check of the timing (is the striker going right forward each time or is it maybe hanging up because the cocking cam isn't rotating exactly the same each shot) has paid much greater dividends for me than the current fads of pillar bedding and shimming headspace. Cheers
I’ve done all those things already. Bolt is smooth as silk and everything is operating fine. Rifle is super ammo fussy. It likes the good stuff.
Yes 1000% better!
Thanks for the great video. Any recommendations for learning how to lead lap a barrel?
ruclips.net/video/bO9IvD0y64s/видео.html
My barrel looks exactly like that. Still shoots lights out a 200. Did you polish the firing pin?
That Zombie Green stock looks nice! I never would have considered going with a color like that. Makes me want to pick up one of these MKii FVs and play with upgrades. Lead lapping seems like a very involved process from the videos I've watched. Do you have a video that goes over how you do it? Do you think that JB bore cleaning compound would achieve similar results or is it not aggressive enough to knock out the tooling marks compared to lead lapping? Thanks!
I normally would have bought that color either but I seen it in another rifle and fell in love with it. I don’t have a video because there’s already so many other good ones on the subject. The nice thing about lead lapping is you get both the grooves and the lands. With JB bore paste you mainly get the lands but sometimes that’s enough. You could try it and see if it works. I lead lapped it because the chatter was bad on both the grooves and the lands and that was the only way to keep that lead from building up. It was somewhat involved but I only had a few hours into it.
Did you use lapping compound when you lapped it? Soft lead isn't going to do much again hard steel on its own. In my aerospace machine shop we sometimes lap a spline with cast iron blanks & lapping compound (porosity of cast iron will hold the lapping compound).
Yes
hello, where did you get the knob?
They sell those on EBay, it’s actually for a CZ457.
www.ebay.com/itm/252421941523
How do you lead lap a barrel? Can I take it to a gunsmith? Sorry for the newb question.
@@BIGDEZUL there’s some good videos on RUclips, to much to try and explain. And a Gunsmith should be able to handle that for you.
@@RimfireSS it’s got me curious. I’m not brave enough to try it
Is barrel free floated? If not changing how you weight the bipod can cause vertical stringing. I had same problem with a different rifle.
It’s floated but your right. I’ve had that problem with a couple of my rifles. Don’t think that was it on this one though. Thanks
How did you do the lead lapping? Video your technique for us.
There’s already a ton of videos on it. I like this one.
ruclips.net/video/bO9IvD0y64s/видео.html
What length barrel is that? I just ordered a mkII fv-sr last night with a 16 barrel. Hoping it shoots well. If so I’ll put a better stock on it and have some fun.
@@JonFox-t5x it's at least a 20" but I'm not sure. Definitely not 16"
@ what borescope do you use? Is it the Teslong on Amazon? Which model is best?
@JonFox-t5x the Bluetooth model, not sure the exact model.
@ Thank you Don. I’m waiting on a Savage fv-sr mkii to ship from Louisiana. Hoping it has a good barrel so I can add a decent stock and scope to do some bench shooting. You, Josh, and Mr. Revolver Guy gave me the bug. 😀
@JonFox-t5x That's awesome! It's a great sport.
Try sorting ammo by rim thickness and weight.
Nope, been down that road. The juice ain’t worth the squeeze.
What bolt knob is this and where’d you get it!?
It’s the one used on the CZ 457 LRP I believe, got it on eBay. If I can find the link I’ll post it.
www.ebay.com/itm/293149960061?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7DgSK2foR9K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-GzQQSU9QV2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
It slips over the one on you rifle currently.
How long were you lapping and how many laps did you have to cast? We’re you able to get a bore diameter. The groves should lap with the lands. I did a restoration for a family, more for appearance than shooting, they wanted the original barrel it shot but bullets had very little rifling engagement. If you have a place I can send you photos of a customers rifle from Savage, I’ve never seen anything that rough and they refused a return, or to sell me parts. It soured me on them as a company. I’m glad to see your getting somewhere
Went through 5 casts. Started with 280 grit valve lapping compound. Went to 600 then 1000 then 1200. Took some time.
@@RimfireSS Its a project you got a lot of marks out of it. Im anxious to see what the 100 and + targets look like, I mean if you get moa at 100 its ok for NRL22
@@takedeadaim8671 what about sub MOA at 200? Video to come.
looks like when it was "dirty" on the last video it grouped better
Actually it’s a tad better now with the Rifle Match. But other ammunition it’s night and day. Rifle match was all I could get to shoot decent but now it shoots everything good.
What distance were you shooting???
At 11:40 it says 50 yards, you must have missed it.
I thought it was shooting good from the start? Savage knows something or they wouldn't be around still, but they've always been a value kind of company from what I've seen. Lead lapping? Won't a good cleaning undo that?
Oh no, lead lapping does the grooves and the lands. You make a cast of your bore and put compound on it. Takes all the rough spots down and smoothed out everything evenly.
ruclips.net/video/bO9IvD0y64s/видео.html
Really? Always? Because I recall seeing some Model 99 rifles with AAAA walnut and Savage had the best engraver in N America. My 115 year old 1899 in 30-30 shoots 2 inch groups at 100 with Marbles peep sight and my 1957 Model 99 with K4 scope is a sub moa rifle. Nothing cheap about old Savage rifles.
What's involved in lead lapping? Whats the prosess?
There’s a bunch of videos on RUclips.
ruclips.net/video/bO9IvD0y64s/видео.html
Where did you get the stock and how much was it
Boyd’s gunstock website. The pricing varies.
Ignition. Look at how the firing pin is hitting the cases. You want the firing pin to hit inboard of the rim only.
I’ll check that. Thanks Chuck
Don, I was wondering if you have gone forward on this video (rifle); what did you find on the firing pin strikes on fired cases? I want to ask you about how and what your were trying to accomplish on lead lapping the bore; did you clean and slug the barrel first to gain a game-plan on what you were to achieve in the process? I would like to more about how all this panned-out.
Chuck @@RimfireSS
@@Chuck_Carolina I did clean and slug the barrel before I lapped it. My Objective was to clean up all the rough spots in the rifling so it wouldn’t pick up so much lead while I shot it. The barrel was already accurate. I’m getting good primer strikes and the rifle shoots sub moa out to 200 yards with Lapua Long range. I replaced the bottom metal with the DIP one and put the Apache trigger kit in it which brought it down to 12oz. Not much more to be told. I don’t plan on bedding the stock The rifle shoots great and I’ve gone as far as I plan to with it.
Cool report, I understand other interests. TY@@RimfireSS
Seen some good results reported from people checking this. A mkii I've seen had the strikes over lapping the edge of the rim. The case was quite a loose fit in the chamber, probably at the loose end of SAMMI spec. Compare it to a match chamber and you'll know what i mean.This would obviously force the case sideways in the chamber with the bulge in the rim. The headspace on SK could have been tightened by at least 0.004 thou on that rifle when checked. If you have one check what you have as it may be different.
The entry to the chamber is also very Sharp on the examples I've seen. They need a slight chamfer or radius to ease the entry of the round and stop any scratching.
Can you use bolt shims on this rifle?
I believe so.
Hi. Just wondering How did you go about lead lapping this rifle.
Will the same stock fit on the fvsr? Also, will the accuracy suffer due to the short length?
I believe it will but check with Boyd’s, and I didn’t see any difference in accuracy at all. It’s just a way more useful stock and it looks so good!
Additional comment regarding your measurements around the 14 minute mark:
I'm not sure how you were getting "0.375" or "0.6." and if that is supposed to me MOA or what. Those were shot at 50 yards, right? When you pointed at your targets with your fingers the relative spacing looked more like double those numbers on some of them. You need (approximately) 0.5" at 50 yards for 1 MOA. Right?
So .23 MOA would measure .115 across the weirdest spaces holes, right? Or was this the actual measurement, or did you average the measurement between each 5 shot group? I'm confused about your methods to get those numbers. Please tell me what I'm missing. Thanks so much!
Lastly and aside from all that... Great shooting!
The proper way to measure a group is the center of each of the two bullets that are furthest apart with a micrometer.
Just curious... How is this shooting after 9 months ?
Still shoots great. I do have to clean it quite abit more than the more expensive rifles. You can only do so much with a chattered barrel. I probably should have gone up a grade to get the better barrel. Lesson learned
@@RimfireSS Wonder if Shilen or someone makes a barrel that would fit... Thanks for the reply.
How do you lead lap?
There’s a lot of good videos on RUclips that will give you step by step instructions.
Is the barrel free floated? Heat pressure???
It is free floated. But it does run quite close to the stock. I’m not sure how much of a issue the “flier” actually is. I’ve been shooting this rifle a lot and it’s pretty consistent.
Nice looking gun. How did the stock fit? Did you have to order the trigger guard separately
Keep up the great content.👍
I will. Thanks
You should do a video on lead lapping a .22 barrel
there are already so many good videos on this subject on youtube already.
stock torque you are close
No offense intended but It looks to me like your group measurements are significantly off. If that is the standard rimfire target then that center circle is a half inch across. When you compare that to your groups even in the ones where the group is clearly larger than that circle by a significant amount you're still measuring less than 0.5 CTC. Even through experience in measuring .22 groups your measurements look significantly too small. Sure you didn't zero out the calipers for a different size bullet?
I’ve been measuring from the center of each of the two bullets furthest apart. When I measure the outside of the group and take the bullet size out there even smaller then when I measure center to center. All I can say is it’s easy to say the measurements don’t look right when your looking at a video.
Needs bedding
Nah.
Human error on the flyers....it happens to the best of us....easy to blame the ammo or rifle...
It does, and it is easy to do, but i guarantee you it wasn’t all my fault.
@@RimfireSS A likely story! I thought of getting a Mark ll TR...I like the large bolt knob on yours....did you make it or buy it???
🇺🇸❤️🩹🙏❤️🩹🇺🇸
Bro just picked up a mark 2 btv used for 200 has a bushnell 4x12x40 mounted I have high Hope's lmao
Those have the better barrel too. I’m sure it will shoot.
I think i would have sent it back to savage . Thats not there quality.
I was going too but thought I’d see what I could do with it first.