I shoot F-Class with an Old guy he's 85 as i remember he has an Anschutz 54 he "clains" has over 200K rounds through which i don't doubt he shoots alot and keeps good records. He says the accuracy has fallen off but he can still clean a 100 yard small bore target with 10s and Xs with Eley ammo. Amazingly enough on a good day he can still whoop up on us younger guys (in our 40s-50s-60s) in F-Class and 100 yard .22 benchrest scoped and 50 yards off hand open sights. The man is a beast works hard and shoots hard. I have a Rem 513T made in 1954 with a pitted barrel that can still go clean at 100 yards with Eley ammo and the headspacing is non existant it closes on a no go gauge like it ain't even there. I've been a Gunsmith for 27 years, what you see in a bore scope really has no effect on how the rifle shoots. I have seen some barrels that looked like a sewer pipe inside that shot outstanding and some that looked new that shot horrible. What counts is whats on the target and the X-Count. Most people should just use the bore scope to keep an eye on carbon and copper or lead fouling and how their cleaning regiment is working for them. On a premium barrel i can generally judge how the barrel will shoot by how well I'm able to dial it in on the lathe. Upon arrival I put them in the centers on the lathe and put an indicator on them on each end and in the center. Some run real good and some look like a jump rope in the center. Those I send back to the supplier. Some of the truest barrels i have had were Green Mountain, Bartlein, Brux, Krieger, Jim T. Lewis and the worst were McGowan, X-Caliber, and sorry to say Muller and Remington. I had a brand new Rem 7-08 barrel with a .054" whip in the center guess how it shot.
I love to read comments by professionals like yourself. I have a MKII also and never could explain why it shot well (not good just well) and had such a terrible looking barrel inside. This rifle spends most of it's life now in the safe since I got a nice scoped CZ but I still shoot it because of it having the peep sights and I enjoy that sight system. New Subber of yours #6 ...
@@fls360 I am going to saturate the barrel with Bore Tech let it sit for an hour, take a nylon brush to it, then soak it again with Bore Tech let it sit for an hour then dry patch it.
I would say it is the wind. Even 1ms crosswind can throw a bullet 10-15mm aside and also cause vertical deflection and if I looked correctly you had a 2-4ms wind
before a re-barrel , try some J-B bore cleaning compound . Then try out some Norma T.A.C 22 ammo. The heavy consistent lube on this ammo does not require seasoning in most rifles. The J B is awesome for removing all breech end carbon ring . Norma T.A.C 22 is a extremely accurate ammunition. Not comparing apples and orange , I shoot a Ruger precision with a V-22 Bushnell. Squirrels are not safe !
Second the JB bore paste. They also make a bore polish(red package) which can make the surface of the rifling smoother. What have you go to lose at this point? That barrel has significant visible fouling and you won't know how it can perform until it's clean and there's a few dozen rounds down the barrel again.
BTW those "experts" don't know what they are talking about. I spent 30 years in the steel industry. One of the so called experts is on Rimfire Central. What they do not know is the tensile strength/yield of the screws. I put a spare screw in a vise to just see. I quit trying to break or stretch the screw at 70 in/lbs. Give that barrel a good scrubbing with JB Bore Bright. It will polish some of the roughness out. Use the one with the red markings. Count on 50 plus strokes.
Shot 3 position small bore for years and used the same rifle (REM 40X) the whole time. I shot everyday and used between 2 and 3 bricks a week. This was done over period of several years. The gun was as accurate the day I got it after all those rounds. I do believe looking at the bore that you are foul and need a deep clean. As Peter Messina and Kevin Adam suggested, a cleaning with a quality lead remover followed JB Bore compound will liven that thing up.
I have two Savage MK II's in Boyds Rimfire Hunter stocks. Both are torqued to 30 in/lbs. Started out at 15 and went up to 30 in 5 in/lb increments. Both grouped best at 30 in/lbs. Shooting for groups in the wind is a waste of time. A friend has a 100 yd indoor range - no wind. I do all of my testing at 100 yds. Both of the Savages shoot 1/2 moa at 100 yds. I have an Anschutz 54 made in 1972 that I bought from the CMP. It too groups 1/2 moa or better. No telling how many rounds have been down it's barrel.
I had a savage similar to yours, I did a lot of stock and trigger work , nothing seemed to help with constant accuracy.one day I put t barrel in the lathe and there was a considerable amount of run out between the barrel and action.
Sir, thank you for all of your content. I think your groups are being impacted by. the wind. Not only in a lateral movement but also in vertical. With a right twist barrel a wind from R to L a 22lr can be higher than point aim. Conversly L to R can be lower. It would be great if you could do a video on this phenomenon. Wind reading in my opinion is the greatest differentiator in 22lr accuracy. Just my opinion, but keep up the great content
Wow, i sure missed this video by a few hours! Well Eli, the squirrels in the tree`s will be safe with that gun around, i can hear them snickering at you all the way out to my house, lol. I would clean the bore and try it again though. That gun should shoot better than that. I`ve seen worse barrels than that one that shot better groups. Check your scope rings too, make sure they`re all tight.
Good carbon remover like boretech c4 and a bronze brush. My barrel has over 30k rounds on it now and that’s how I clean it every few 100 rounds. It still hammers.
The wind is a definite contributor to the inaccuracy, however, the misfire could be a hint of problems involving inconsistent primer strikes. Those Savages normally shoot very well, but I would cast a suspicious eye at the chamber. Also, the barrel was showing stress cracks that occur in all barrels with a number of rounds through them, but won't always adversely affect accuracy. The lip of the chamber where the firing pin pinches the cartridge rim may be worn enough to cause inconsistent primer strikes. I've never had that happen, but I have had a firing pin shorten by enough to cause inconsistent primer strikes and poor accuracy. The firing pin spring should weaken first, but in my case, the spring was fine. The pin was blunted and short. All of this is, of course, ruling out bedding. A lot of shooters use Kan o Kroil in the barrel to help put the first shot in the group. Maybe something like that will help the cold bore shot. I'm just guessing, but maybe you can find something here to latch on to.
i 2nd savage screws are junk. just had factory extras delivered few weeks ago for a couple 70848’s i have. love the rifles tho. shoot lights out. manual, phone call, and month delayed email all say different torque specs. I settled on 23 inch pounds. Given the Wheeler fat wrench has a plus/minus 2 inch pound spec.
I’d tighten it down even more, I’ve a couple off oryx chassis one on a tikka t1x and a howa 1500 both chassis are tightened down to 60inch pounds, I’m also a metal worker and 60inch pounds is recommended for the oryx chassis system
Happy Easter and Semper Fi, Marine. What trigger spring did you replace the original? My Savage Mark II set up is nearly exactly like yours (scope's different, same Oryx chassis). Even though my model is the XP from Dicks Sporting Goods, my Savage came a barrel that looks like the TR barrel. Same horizontal fluting, but my barrel seems to be an inch shorter than TR specs. Shoots about like yours, maybe a tad better with CCI SV. I'll have to buy a torque wrench and check how tight my Oryx screws are too.
I think the wind is messing with you. Maybe try a different ammo? I'm getting ready to decide if I'm going to scope or leave my red dot on my Ruger 10/22! I wish you good luck!
Have you thought about getting some aftermarket action screws? You say people are telling you the factory ones won't handle the torque. If there is a company out there that makes them out of better quality material that might be an easy cheap fix versus sending the action out to have it rebarreled.
Hi Eli! Love all your hard work bringing us such interesting and enjoyable videos 👍 If you want to know about torquing take-up (action) screws, get over to Gunblue490 it will be a real eye opener! Bottom line is if Oryx say it should be 30”lbs then that’s where it needs to be! As for the ‘not so good grouping’! With that wind blowing everything was moving about!! And yes start with the cheapest option and give that barrel a golly good scrubbing 😂 kindest regards from deepest Dorset England 🇬🇧🇺🇸
See the bore scope footage cleaned not long ago. Though the cleaning regimen was like my other 22's wet patch and nylon brush every 200 rounds is all needed. But I think this requires extra care because of the roughness.
@@Dayattherange the bore scope is nice but does always tell the tail. Try cleaning it with a bronze brush. Rimfires don’t need harsh cleaners try using oil. Try it What’s the worse that could happen?
as always, wonderful video! I doubt your barrel is shot out, do a good cleaing as other followers noted and also remove any carbon ring in the chamber. Keep the powder dry.......
Barrel swapping a Savage mark II is as simple as picking up a FVSR and dropping it in your chassis after you throw the playschool stock out. Don't waste any time trying to get that right. It's 300$..probably pocket change with your budget. I've seen your other rigs.
This is a case of a lose nut behind the trigger, nutten wrong with that rifle. Next time you go to the range you need 1 no wind 2 A different lot number of fresh ammo 3 no coffee. Try that, if the rifle still won't shoot let someone else see if they can get it to work. If it sill won't shoot well now you can start thinking there might be something wrong with that rifle.
Put it back in the 'back' of the safe facing the corner with a 'Dunce Hat' on the muzzle...then tell it to think about it's poor performance as it sits there in the dark! ...😁...get the CZ452 out and enjoy life again. ...😎
late to the vid, but ya i dont think you can shoot out a .22 barrel. i have dumped well north of 125,000 rnds down the pipe of my rem mod 512, and while i have had to replace the spring in my mag tube the barrel is still the factory from 1951. i clean it out every 10k or so but no problems with 100yrd MOA. been shooting it since 1982.
@@Dayattherange Social Media for the most part is impossible to get across accurately ones motivation but my comment is with the upmost respect...... If it was my gun and me on the trigger I’d look firstly at nailing down my environmental’s, switchy wind and what I assume is that target platform moving in the wind aren’t factors for consistency. You may have been through the hierarchy of mechanicals but a second run through won’t hurt. Bedding (does the barrel change clearance to the stock when torquing the action screws?) Scope rail Rings Scope Barrel harmonics Crown (already done) Chamber/headspace I hope you get it sorted, I know how frustrating it is when expectations aren’t met.
@@rvrski1 Oh yeah by the way head spacing also looked at and fixed by a well trained many years of experience gunsmith. Agree on the wind for sure the target was dancing. BUT you nailed it consistency is what I am looking for so I know what to expect. Not 6inch flyers on the first shot.
It's not possible to shoot a 22 lr barrel out. I know of Winchester 52s, Remington 40xs, and even Shutzen rifles with over 75-80 years of hard use that can still compete and win against the best of the best new target rifles. It is however possible to clean a barrel out and I would argue that once a brand of ammo has been identified as the competition load I would avoid cleaning the rifle from there on.
@@Dayattherange She is wrong. All .22s will need to be cleaned periodically. A lot depends on the barrel as to frequency. My Bergara starts losing accuracy at around 750 rounds. The carbon ring is not your friend. You can feel it when you push a brush down the bore. I use Bore Tech C4 to get rid of the carbon ring. Soak a bore mop with it and let it sit on the carbon ring for several hours. BTW I have used the dreaded bronze bore brush for decades. Will not harm the bore. Cleans the crud out a low faster than the nylon brushes.
IT'S A HIT AND MISS WITH THESE FACTORY LOW END BARRELS, J.B. LAP IT AND SEE IF IT WILL IMPROVE. I HAVE LOOKED AT A FEW VIDEOS ON THIS MODEL HERE ON RUclips, ALMOST ALL OF THEM SHOOT REALLY WELL. I HAVE TO PULL MINE OUT OF THE SAFE AND SHOOT IT, MY TIKKA .22 NEVER GAVE THE SAVAGE A CHANCE TO BE SHOT!!🤷♂️😉😂
lol my cheep savage shoots under 2" at 800 yards did nothing but put a brake on it and load development odvisly not a 22 lr but my cheap Savage 22 lr shoots .3s with Lapua Midas Plus and don't get me started on my 229.00 savage 22-250 lights out. I have had one savage that wouldn't shoot... then I put bullets in it...lol
take it out of the stock turn the barrel down heat the outside of the barrel and it will melt the lead out . gunsmith friend of mine was in school his instructor taught them that in class said it works why not try it you have nothing to loose if your thinking of rebarreling anyway
Lap the bore they are button rifled. Your Savage may not like that Eley. Your paper was flapping in the wind and I can't lie it's annoying because you wasted 6 minutes of my time that could have been spent on Nothin Fancy. That barrel looks to clean and that crown job could also be your problem. Remeber colored eggs are not crayons Marine.....It's ok to eat them tomorrow.
@@Dayattherange LOL.... wife an i had some friends over, so i missed when the video came out. I`ll be on the next one like a rat on a cheeto` though, lol.
You really should try a good cleaner to get out lead and or copper out of the bore. 22lr is such a low pressure and velocity round that it’s virtually impossible to shoot out barrels. My CZ 457 MTR shows accuracy degradation after 30 rounds or so. It’s 1.5 moa at the beginning then at 40 or fifty rounds it goes to 2-2.5 moa. I use pro shot and it cleans out lead great. I would recommend not shooting and plated 22 ammo through a gun you want good accuracy in. It’s totally fine for 10/22s and other semi autos but in these expensive bolt guns I’d just go with the sk or lapua. I have found that the Norma standard velocity 40gr lead round nose shoots very well for the price. It is pretty heavily lubed so your fingers get pretty nasty when loading mags but it shoots great and is much cheeper than anything else.
I shoot F-Class with an Old guy he's 85 as i remember he has an Anschutz 54 he "clains" has over 200K rounds through which i don't doubt he shoots alot and keeps good records. He says the accuracy has fallen off but he can still clean a 100 yard small bore target with 10s and Xs with Eley ammo. Amazingly enough on a good day he can still whoop up on us younger guys (in our 40s-50s-60s) in F-Class and 100 yard .22 benchrest scoped and 50 yards off hand open sights. The man is a beast works hard and shoots hard. I have a Rem 513T made in 1954 with a pitted barrel that can still go clean at 100 yards with Eley ammo and the headspacing is non existant it closes on a no go gauge like it ain't even there. I've been a Gunsmith for 27 years, what you see in a bore scope really has no effect on how the rifle shoots. I have seen some barrels that looked like a sewer pipe inside that shot outstanding and some that looked new that shot horrible. What counts is whats on the target and the X-Count. Most people should just use the bore scope to keep an eye on carbon and copper or lead fouling and how their cleaning regiment is working for them. On a premium barrel i can generally judge how the barrel will shoot by how well I'm able to dial it in on the lathe. Upon arrival I put them in the centers on the lathe and put an indicator on them on each end and in the center. Some run real good and some look like a jump rope in the center. Those I send back to the supplier. Some of the truest barrels i have had were Green Mountain, Bartlein, Brux, Krieger, Jim T. Lewis and the worst were McGowan, X-Caliber, and sorry to say Muller and Remington. I had a brand new Rem 7-08 barrel with a .054" whip in the center guess how it shot.
I love to read comments by professionals like yourself. I have a MKII also and never could explain why it shot well (not good just well) and had such a terrible looking barrel inside. This rifle spends most of it's life now in the safe since I got a nice scoped CZ but I still shoot it because of it having the peep sights and I enjoy that sight system. New Subber of yours #6 ...
Looking at that barrel borescope section, it just needs a REALLY good clean!
You think so Kevin I will give it a good soaking with Bore Tech
@@Dayattherange I'd even think about taking the bronze brush to it. Lead fouling is hard to get out with chemicals alone.
Bronze brush will not harm the barrel. Might harm the lead that's built up in it though.
@@fls360 I am going to saturate the barrel with Bore Tech let it sit for an hour, take a nylon brush to it, then soak it again with Bore Tech let it sit for an hour then dry patch it.
@@Dayattherange Don’t listen to them !! I wouldn’t put a bronze brush, copper plated or any non match rounds down any match .22 barrel .
I would say it is the wind. Even 1ms crosswind can throw a bullet 10-15mm aside and also cause vertical deflection and if I looked correctly you had a 2-4ms wind
use wind flags and sighers .I have done over 1" hold over before to bring in the ten
before a re-barrel , try some J-B bore cleaning compound . Then try out some Norma T.A.C 22 ammo. The heavy consistent lube on this ammo does not require seasoning in most rifles. The J B is awesome for removing all breech end carbon ring . Norma T.A.C 22 is a extremely accurate ammunition. Not comparing apples and orange , I shoot a Ruger precision with a V-22 Bushnell. Squirrels are not safe !
Second the JB bore paste. They also make a bore polish(red package) which can make the surface of the rifling smoother. What have you go to lose at this point? That barrel has significant visible fouling and you won't know how it can perform until it's clean and there's a few dozen rounds down the barrel again.
BTW those "experts" don't know what they are talking about. I spent 30 years in the steel industry. One of the so called experts is on Rimfire Central. What they do not know is the tensile strength/yield of the screws. I put a spare screw in a vise to just see. I quit trying to break or stretch the screw at 70 in/lbs. Give that barrel a good scrubbing with JB Bore Bright. It will polish some of the roughness out. Use the one with the red markings. Count on 50 plus strokes.
Never had good luck with any savage, sold them all. Thanks happy Easter.
Shot 3 position small bore for years and used the same rifle (REM 40X) the whole time. I shot everyday and used between 2 and 3 bricks a week. This was done over period of several years. The gun was as accurate the day I got it after all those rounds. I do believe looking at the bore that you are foul and need a deep clean. As Peter Messina and Kevin Adam suggested, a cleaning with a quality lead remover followed JB Bore compound will liven that thing up.
I have two Savage MK II's in Boyds Rimfire Hunter stocks. Both are torqued to 30 in/lbs. Started out at 15 and went up to 30 in 5 in/lb increments. Both grouped best at 30 in/lbs. Shooting for groups in the wind is a waste of time. A friend has a 100 yd indoor range - no wind. I do all of my testing at 100 yds. Both of the Savages shoot 1/2 moa at 100 yds. I have an Anschutz 54 made in 1972 that I bought from the CMP. It too groups 1/2 moa or better. No telling how many rounds have been down it's barrel.
I had a savage similar to yours, I did a lot of stock and trigger work , nothing seemed to help with constant accuracy.one day I put t barrel in the lathe and there was a considerable amount of run out between the barrel and action.
defiantly a defective gun
,however I wouldn't spend much time with the brand ,there are some superior European models out there
Sir, thank you for all of your content. I think your groups are being impacted by. the wind. Not only in a lateral movement but also in vertical. With a right twist barrel a wind from R to L a 22lr can be higher than point aim. Conversly L to R can be lower. It would be great if you could do a video on this phenomenon. Wind reading in my opinion is the greatest differentiator in 22lr accuracy. Just my opinion, but keep up the great content
Wow, i sure missed this video by a few hours!
Well Eli, the squirrels in the tree`s will be safe with that gun around, i can hear them snickering at you all the way out to my house, lol.
I would clean the bore and try it again though. That gun should shoot better than that. I`ve seen worse barrels than that one that shot better groups.
Check your scope rings too, make sure they`re all tight.
That swirling wind looks pretty tough
The wind is moving your target around. It’s opening up group massively
I have a couple old lakefield rifles that are the forerunner for the mk2
Good carbon remover like boretech c4 and a bronze brush. My barrel has over 30k rounds on it now and that’s how I clean it every few 100 rounds. It still hammers.
The wind is a definite contributor to the inaccuracy, however, the misfire could be a hint of problems involving inconsistent primer strikes. Those Savages normally shoot very well, but I would cast a suspicious eye at the chamber. Also, the barrel was showing stress cracks that occur in all barrels with a number of rounds through them, but won't always adversely affect accuracy. The lip of the chamber where the firing pin pinches the cartridge rim may be worn enough to cause inconsistent primer strikes. I've never had that happen, but I have had a firing pin shorten by enough to cause inconsistent primer strikes and poor accuracy. The firing pin spring should weaken first, but in my case, the spring was fine. The pin was blunted and short. All of this is, of course, ruling out bedding. A lot of shooters use Kan o Kroil in the barrel to help put the first shot in the group. Maybe something like that will help the cold bore shot. I'm just guessing, but maybe you can find something here to latch on to.
i 2nd savage screws are junk. just had factory extras delivered few weeks ago for a couple 70848’s i have. love the rifles tho. shoot lights out. manual, phone call, and month delayed email all say different torque specs. I settled on 23 inch pounds. Given the Wheeler fat wrench has a plus/minus 2 inch pound spec.
I’d tighten it down even more, I’ve a couple off oryx chassis one on a tikka t1x and a howa 1500 both chassis are tightened down to 60inch pounds, I’m also a metal worker and 60inch pounds is recommended for the oryx chassis system
Thats a lot of torque that even some centerfires do not get becareful, I do know the savage screws will not take that kind of torque.
the oryx chassis for my savage mark ii bv came with new action screws and they also recommended 60 in lbs.
Well I've 3 oryx chassis and I have them all at 60 inch pounds I've no trouble with them at all
Happy Easter and Semper Fi, Marine.
What trigger spring did you replace the original?
My Savage Mark II set up is nearly exactly like yours (scope's different, same Oryx chassis). Even though my model is the XP from Dicks Sporting Goods, my Savage came a barrel that looks like the TR barrel. Same horizontal fluting, but my barrel seems to be an inch shorter than TR specs. Shoots about like yours, maybe a tad better with CCI SV.
I'll have to buy a torque wrench and check how tight my Oryx screws are too.
That wind was whipping
Yeah man I am not lucky enough to get a calm day here.
What was the position of the wind? Perpendicular to to bore? Angled?
Perpendicular in a part of the video you can see that with the sand STORM behind me lol
And a savage 900tr also a forerunner to the mk2
I have a mark ii love it , its the original before the accutrigger.
I think the wind is messing with you. Maybe try a different ammo? I'm getting ready to decide if I'm going to scope or leave my red dot on my Ruger 10/22! I wish you good luck!
Have you thought about getting some aftermarket action screws? You say people are telling you the factory ones won't handle the torque. If there is a company out there that makes them out of better quality material that might be an easy cheap fix versus sending the action out to have it rebarreled.
Hi Eli! Love all your hard work bringing us such interesting and enjoyable videos 👍 If you want to know about torquing take-up (action) screws, get over to Gunblue490 it will be a real eye opener! Bottom line is if Oryx say it should be 30”lbs then that’s where it needs to be! As for the ‘not so good grouping’! With that wind blowing everything was moving about!! And yes start with the cheapest option and give that barrel a golly good scrubbing 😂 kindest regards from deepest Dorset England 🇬🇧🇺🇸
It’s basically impossible to shoot out a 22 barrel. When is the last time you cleaned it?
See the bore scope footage cleaned not long ago. Though the cleaning regimen was like my other 22's wet patch and nylon brush every 200 rounds is all needed. But I think this requires extra care because of the roughness.
@@Dayattherange the bore scope is nice but does always tell the tail. Try cleaning it with a bronze brush. Rimfires don’t need harsh cleaners try using oil. Try it What’s the worse that could happen?
It seemed a little windy or the table with the camera was moving a lot.
Maybe Kenny will see this and offer to re-barrel your Savage.
as always, wonderful video! I doubt your barrel is shot out, do a good cleaing as other followers noted and also remove any carbon ring in the chamber. Keep the powder dry.......
Barrel swapping a Savage mark II is as simple as picking up a FVSR and dropping it in your chassis after you throw the playschool stock out. Don't waste any time trying to get that right. It's 300$..probably pocket change with your budget. I've seen your other rigs.
This is a case of a lose nut behind the trigger, nutten wrong with that rifle. Next time you go to the range you need 1 no wind 2 A different lot number of fresh ammo 3 no coffee. Try that, if the rifle still won't shoot let someone else see if they can get it to work. If it sill won't shoot well now you can start thinking there might be something wrong with that rifle.
I'd blame it on wind
Eagle Eye precision Arizona
Put it back in the 'back' of the safe facing the corner with a 'Dunce Hat' on the muzzle...then tell it to think about it's poor performance as it sits there in the dark! ...😁...get the CZ452 out and enjoy life again. ...😎
late to the vid, but ya i dont think you can shoot out a .22 barrel. i have dumped well north of 125,000 rnds down the pipe of my rem mod 512, and while i have had to replace the spring in my mag tube the barrel is still the factory from 1951. i clean it out every 10k or so but no problems with 100yrd MOA. been shooting it since 1982.
That is awesome unfortunately I just think this barrel wasn't the greatest from the factory and the more I shot it the worst it got.
The barrel looks like it was rifled in a hurry so the metal looks like it stretched.
Send it to m r Savage he can do it Fred Moreo. Sharpshooters Supply Delphos Ohio
Am I think of a different shop, thought there was something going on with father son relationship might be thinking of a different shop in Ohio.
I think it's funny when you're self conscious even about a 22 lr not shooting super great moa (just appreciate it not hating)
Did it ever shoot?
It has shot but for some reason I always felt like it was luck not as consistent as I wanted it to be.
@@Dayattherange Social
Media for the most part is impossible to get across accurately ones motivation but my comment is with the upmost respect......
If it was my gun and me on the trigger I’d look firstly at nailing down my environmental’s, switchy wind and what I assume is that target platform moving in the wind aren’t factors for consistency.
You may have been through the hierarchy of mechanicals but a second run through won’t hurt.
Bedding (does the barrel change clearance to the stock when torquing the action
screws?)
Scope rail
Rings
Scope
Barrel harmonics
Crown (already done)
Chamber/headspace
I hope you get it sorted, I know how frustrating it is when expectations aren’t met.
@@rvrski1 Oh yeah by the way head spacing also looked at and fixed by a well trained many years of experience gunsmith. Agree on the wind for sure the target was dancing. BUT you nailed it consistency is what I am looking for so I know what to expect. Not 6inch flyers on the first shot.
It's not possible to shoot a 22 lr barrel out. I know of Winchester 52s, Remington 40xs, and even Shutzen rifles with over 75-80 years of hard use that can still compete and win against the best of the best new target rifles. It is however possible to clean a barrel out and I would argue that once a brand of ammo has been identified as the competition load I would avoid cleaning the rifle from there on.
Christy thank you but let me make sure I understand. Are you saying NEVER clean your 22LR rifle if so what about the carbon ring?
@@Dayattherange She is wrong. All .22s will need to be cleaned periodically. A lot depends on the barrel as to frequency. My Bergara starts losing accuracy at around 750 rounds. The carbon ring is not your friend. You can feel it when you push a brush down the bore. I use Bore Tech C4 to get rid of the carbon ring. Soak a bore mop with it and let it sit on the carbon ring for several hours. BTW I have used the dreaded bronze bore brush for decades. Will not harm the bore. Cleans the crud out a low faster than the nylon brushes.
IT'S A HIT AND MISS WITH THESE FACTORY LOW END BARRELS, J.B. LAP IT AND SEE IF IT WILL IMPROVE. I HAVE LOOKED AT A FEW VIDEOS ON THIS MODEL HERE ON RUclips, ALMOST ALL OF THEM SHOOT REALLY WELL.
I HAVE TO PULL MINE OUT OF THE SAFE AND SHOOT IT, MY TIKKA .22 NEVER GAVE THE SAVAGE A CHANCE TO BE SHOT!!🤷♂️😉😂
Sam G put them side by side and let me know how they shoot. Maybe enter them in the smallest group challenge.😁😁dayattherange.com/?page_id=7184
Hello all
You can only shoot out a 22 barrel if it is made of poor quality material, or you are doing something wrong.
Torque to 28 lbs
Why, don't waste your time and money on a Savage rifle!
lol my cheep savage shoots under 2" at 800 yards did nothing but put a brake on it and load development odvisly not a 22 lr but my cheap Savage 22 lr shoots .3s with Lapua Midas Plus and don't get me started on my 229.00 savage 22-250 lights out. I have had one savage that wouldn't shoot... then I put bullets in it...lol
with the movement of your target moving that much you are never going to get good groups
take it out of the stock turn the barrel down heat the outside of the barrel and it will melt the lead out . gunsmith friend of mine was in school his instructor taught them that in class said it works why not try it you have nothing to loose if your thinking of rebarreling anyway
I have heard many different ways but this is original and may have to try it hmmmm let me think through it.
@@Dayattherange hope it helps you out i enjoy your videos
Lap the bore they are button rifled. Your Savage may not like that Eley. Your paper was flapping in the wind and I can't lie it's annoying because you wasted 6 minutes of my time that could have been spent on Nothin Fancy. That barrel looks to clean and that crown job could also be your problem. Remeber colored eggs are not crayons Marine.....It's ok to eat them tomorrow.
The Savage is a cheap entry level gun. My opinion your wasting your time and money trying to make it a bench gun
first 😂
Woooo JD you beat Derp and Vinny C LOL
@@Dayattherange LOL.... wife an i had some friends over, so i missed when the video came out. I`ll be on the next one like a rat on a cheeto` though, lol.
You really should try a good cleaner to get out lead and or copper out of the bore. 22lr is such a low pressure and velocity round that it’s virtually impossible to shoot out barrels. My CZ 457 MTR shows accuracy degradation after 30 rounds or so. It’s 1.5 moa at the beginning then at 40 or fifty rounds it goes to 2-2.5 moa. I use pro shot and it cleans out lead great. I would recommend not shooting and plated 22 ammo through a gun you want good accuracy in. It’s totally fine for 10/22s and other semi autos but in these expensive bolt guns I’d just go with the sk or lapua. I have found that the Norma standard velocity 40gr lead round nose shoots very well for the price. It is pretty heavily lubed so your fingers get pretty nasty when loading mags but it shoots great and is much cheeper than anything else.