The Easiest Way To Replace A Boat Transom
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- Follow along with me as I figure out the easiest way to replace the transom on my aluminum boat. This is a long one, but if you are wanting to replace the transom on your boat, I feel you will benefit greatly by watching me do it first.
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I almost threw away an old Craftsman electric chainsaw until I used it and a shopvac to clean out a transom cavity.....REALLY speeded up the job. I've done several since and haven't found a better way.....Good informative video for anyone contemplating transom replacement. Once done they are almost indestructible.
Yes, it is rock solid! The chainsaw idea is brilliant. Thanks for the idea.
I used a Sawzall on the 2 I did. But good job. I used wood to replace both transom. The lund I had to remove the rear deck as you stated..
Chain saw great idea
The hardest part of doing something is getting started. Well done man!
Thanks Eric. I appreciate the comment.
The hardest part is doing it RIGHT! Every step down the Cheapest path is just another step into doing it over again, or accepting second-rate results that you wouldn't expect to pay full price for. 1st. leave the inner skin "Completely" alone. (options later). 2nd. cut the ""ENTIRE"" outer away,, Leaving 3 to 4 inches revied around. 3rd. Dig it ALL OUT! side to side and Clean the bottom completely. 4th using 3/4 melamine, Skin the back creating a form, clamp & thru bolt using 1/2" PVC a needed spacers. Now you have the opportunity to decide whether you want a notched-back or a "Full" Flatback transom. The Flatback is "Ideal" for the installation of a jack plate for every reason a jack plate is superior to a Hard transom mount. I personally install ones with longer shafts. To get the Powerhead UP & OUT of the water plus having the ability to kick along much shallower. Besides, your process is very time-consuming for nothing added.
@@bobandrews2328 God? Is that you? Make suggestions, not how you're somehow better than the next guy. Dick!
This stuff works fantastic. I am 3 years with my carbon bond transom holding up twin 200 v6 evinrudes on my 26ft center console.
I am sure it works fantastically. IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. This guy just made things worse. A year or so from now and this boat will fall apart where he failed to spend the money and where he failed to remove the corner wood will be completely rotted and gone. That little gap on top? Gonna screw it all. If you can't do it right, don't do it. 200 more woulda finished it right along with a little more work for the corners. Sloppy all the way and now... when it has to all come out, he will spend thousands instead of 200 more.
@@daddski1 Agree....
@@daddski1 If he keeps his boat indoors that's gonna last forever
@@daddski1 looks like his newest video confirms you're FOS
@@daddski1 The only good tip I got was the transom goo
As my father-in-law always said “ Anything worth doing is worth doing right”. Good luck with that!😎🎣
I applaud your approach to the problem that you were faced with. There are a number of people that commented on the potential weakness of the bond between the old wood and the new core, which I guess, only time will tell, but you have your boat ready for fishing! One quick note - the two pieces of angled aluminum you used to cap the transom may have been best mounted first then the two curved end caps fitted over the straight pieces - allowing water to be diverted from entering the transom again. Thanks for the video - hope the boat runs well and the fish are plentiful (within limits of course).
You should use 3M 5200 sealing caulk it's much better for boat applications than silicone. Nice video.
Hi Buggy Man. Thanks for the info.
I agree one hundred percent I used it around the outdrive on the transom it's the only way to go, 5200 is great stuff
Absolutely agree. I use 5200 for below the waterline and 4200 for above. 5200 is a permanent bond and 4200 is UV stable, I use it for deck fittings, windows, port lights, railings, screws, etc. 5200 is some strong, nasty stuff. There's also Sika-Flex which is great for above the waterline.
The most important thing you can tell from the video is, you're a good man. Great job and nice video.
I appreciate that.
When I was a kid, my father and grandfather did the same exact job on an old Artsto-Craft fiberglass boat. My job was to literally vacuum out the original transom wood! The entire thing was dust in between the two fg body pieces! They made a new transom out out pressure treated plywood. It turned out perfect..the engine didn't move around after they fixed it.
Thanks for an informative and entertaining video. Another option would be to use fiberglass resin to fill the void at the top of the transom. You would make an awesome neighbor!
Haha.. come over anytime!
Did the same with my Lowes boat similar to yours,but my mix came in smaller buckets and i filled mine right to the top,and yeah its rock solid
My boat is fiberglass but the transom core is plywood like yours. Yes there are many differences but many similarities too! Watching you gave me some insight into the problems I might face and built some confidence. I will attempt to repair the transom not replace. So seeing the wood first hand helps me understand more and what to expect. THANK YOU.
I'm so glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
I'm rebuilding my 26' sailboat transom to fill in an area where the builder left a flat-V cutout for the outboard, but I want to relocate the rudder to that spot and put the electric outboard on a bracket on the left side of the transom with the swim ladder on the right. I think this product is the way I'm going to go I want at least a 1.5" thick solid transom that's also bonded all the way around the perimeter to the hull sides and bottom, then filleted in with glass tape and epoxy. Thanks for the video. It showed me exactly what I will be dealing with.
Good luck on your project.
@@GoMidwestFishing Thank you.
He needed to remove ALL of the wood and do a solid one-piece pour. What he left will continue to rot, and will act as a hinge on each side of his poured material.
Curved/irregular hinges just don't work. The wood left was just on top. Bottom is full width. The wood was irregular enough to lock the orientation in. The material confirmed to the wood and gripped it 100%.
But yeah, the rest will probably rot eventually but there's a reason why that piece wasn't rotten yet. Less water reaches it.
Does anyone really think that the new carbon core that was installed has “less” strength than the rotten piece of wood that came out of it? Really ! I expect the repair may even be stronger than the original.
@@gerrylormr8299 The material he installed will indeed be very strong. The wood he left on the outsides is already harboring rot at it's edge and that rot will spread. He will end up with a very strong center of a transom flanked by 8 or 10 inches of effectively nothing but the outer sheets of aluminum. Eventually, and possibly soon, the weight and torque of that motor will cause the transom to flex at the point where the poured material meets whats left of that wood.
I would think at the very least, drilling holes into the wood for the new epoxy to bond to would have been a good idea to spread out the transition between the wood and carbon core. A line of 3/4" holes drilled into the wood with an extended drill bit would act as fingers between the carbon core and wood. Drill them at a diagonal from the top and use a rod to push the liquid in and air out once you pour the transom.
@@the_omg3242 that is a good idea but the irregular surface of the wood meeting the chemicals is more than enough to provide mechanical locking as well as increasing the surface area for bonding. Just see how much sanding of a flat surface does for bonding ability of paint, then the ridges in torn wood seem like Mount Everest in comparison. 👍
Wow... I don't know if I would have "tried" that without seeing it done 1st... BRAVE SOUL! Great work, and THANKS for videoing it.
Thanks Gary. I figure the boat was useless as is, so worst case scenario is, I leave it in the same condition.
Very helpful and informative for many of us considering how to tackle transom repair. Thank you
I applauses the effort, for someone who has never done a transom replacement. Although I do feel that the left sections of Wood transom should have been taken out. It just seem logical from support stand point to do so. Never practice aluminum welding on your good pieces. I had to weld a t-top but I practiced on the bench first. The Bondo filler, I think will eventually peel off, because of the high water contact. I’m not for sure but 3M 5200 might been a better choice. The Carbon Core filler seems to me a little pricey. Filling the top portion of the transom with foam is a no no, foam has no structural property at all and still can retain moisture. More core filler or even fiberglass would work better there. But hey if it’s working great and your enjoying the boat, why not. The terms
“One must learn to craw before they walk” comes to play here. Your video was a great stepping stone for me and/or others who try to attempt a project like so. We learn from others and their mistakes. Thanks for sharing. Let us know how the transom is doing.
Yeah....I would have went with the 5200 I owing he was going to have warp issues. He could have used the low temp rods for filling holes to weld that edge since he was pouring that. The pour would have supported and protected that filler weld but at least he was putting in the effort and it's all a learning process.
Props to him for trying what a million other boat owners would have never tried.
I actually screamed out "noo, it'll warp and never stick, that aluminium is a huge heat sink!" As soon as I saw the torch. 😁 Even steel plates warp badly even tho they carry the heat less than aluminium.
I replaced the transom in my 2000 Lund with marine plywood that i soaked with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy solution) to prevent any water intrusion. CPES is two part epoxy that is like diesel and penetrates the wood then cures in a couple of days. It fills all the wood pores making it water proof. 10 years later it is still rock solid. And yes i had to remove dozens of thru-bolts etc. and replace. It was a ton of work. This looks like a much quicker/easier solution but more expensive.
Layered up womanized...glued up. Don't go down as deep just slightly below the support panel inside the boat where you tried welding. (You can then run an angle piece to tie the transom to the support panel) Then lay another piece of womanized sandwiched up clear across the whole length on the inside of the transom. Cover it with aluminum, or just paint it...use longer motor attach bolts. I have done this on 14 foot boats to 24 foot boats and it lasts forever....marine grade plywood is over rated. Much cheaper to do, but if you don't try and go to clear down past the support panel just above the floor it goes much quicker and is plenty strong and stiff across the stern. I have to admire your work around tho....nothing like a job that succeeds no matter how you get it done. Good show....
Did the transom in my boat with Sea Cast, I like the fiberglass from reclaimed boats used to help bind the material together. Worked good on my boat after i removed what little wood remained.
Thanks for the info. I've watched a few people use Sea Cast. Looks like a good product as well.
Thank you for putting this out here. I think it's going to work fine. I'm guessing that without all the wood across the middle water won't be "wicked" into the side corners and they will remain solid for a long long time. Even untreated wood that doesn't stay wet can last for even 1000's of years. Wooden coffins from the pyramids, wooden roofs in ancient cliff dwellings are a good examples, as well as old barns and cabins. I really do enjoy the constructive suggestions and learning about other products. I've never had any luck with those aluminum welding sticks. Please try to ignore nasty comments and keyboard comedians.
Thanks Glen. I enjoy the troubleshooting process. I learned a lot and its been holding up great for a couple seasons now.
Well done mate .and good on you for filming the mishaps ,now someone else won’t try and weld up the gaps ,good job and it’s a pity you couldn’t have purchased a smaller size can of gunk ,keep up the good work ,and not so good work .👍
Guys you got to realize that while this may not be a perfect, ideal repair it's still a hell of a lot better than what he was running around with!! Remember he was running that boat prior to this repair with a completely rotten Transom!!
That looks solid as a rock dude I think you'll be perfectly fine!
Jesus, do not tell people this is a perfectly fine repair, you guys do not take boats seriously. I don't care if it's better than it was, people DROWN every year because of poor boat repairs. You guys need to realize there is a SAFETY FACTOR built into boats, or stronger than it needs to be. That safety factor WAS NOT met with this repair. Telling others its will be safe is just plain BAD advise. Hope it doesn't kill someone.
@@andrewweymouth202 Alot of people are also killed every day in car wrecks and a lot of people die from being fat obese slobs and eating poorly, I would feel perfectly fine getting in this guy's boat and going fishing with him! You need to calm the fuck down sir!
@@andrewweymouth202 If you're that damn scared and paranoid maybe you should take up origami. Make sure to wear safety gloves so you don't get a terrible paper cut!
@@joshotey2967 if you watched this video and thought it was a repaired properly, you know absolutely nothing about boat design, safety, or repair. You've done nothing but shown how ignorant you are. Good job. Go look at some of the other comments. You might learn something.
@@andrewweymouth202 dude, you need to take medication! Nobody is going to drown if the transom repair fails, which is highly unlikely. Yes, I probably would have removed all of the old wood, but I seriously doubt the transom repair will fail. It will be fine. I do agree that he should have used fiberglass and resin to fill the gap, which he can still do later.
You’ve given me inspiration to keep my boat and try this. Going the traditional route seems incredibly expensive. Like you may as well buy a new boat.
Redoing a transom is worth doing right, not easy or fast. I’ve redone transoms on tournament-type bass boats. When you’re running highway speeds on water with 300-500 lb motors on the back, you want right, not easy.
Kudos for putting this out there and taking the advice on the chin. I have never poured one of these so I won't be the Monday morning quarter back about the actual pour or reusing the wooden corners. However, suffice to say that setup will leak badly if going astern or in following swell. You have not sealed the engine well to the transom, the transom cap nor the corner caps. Water will get in there so please be very careful!!!!. Lastly, normal expanding foam absorbs water fyi.
I think it will work just fine plus the epoxy will bond watertight to the existing wood that was left thanks for posting this video and hope to see the year end review
As someone who didn't even know what a transom was when I clicked on the video I learned a lot, among which are that I feel a little better about not being a boat owner, and that I am also like your boat: the back is more shiny than the front.
It appears we both get to learn new things by watching each others channel. It makes me wonder how we learned anything before youtube.
Did my boat and that stuff is amazing. More solid than when it was new and probably better than if I had cut the transom out.
I agree!
Great job! Amazing how many key board boat transom repair experts are out there.
I was a boat repair tech for 25 years and probly did 100 transom in my time working on boats I've been disabled for the past 12 years in my time as a repair tech my primary boat repair was on fiberglass boats however I have done some aluminum boat repairs including transom I must say by not removing all of the wood has made weak spots at the edges where the wood meets the pour I have used the Coosa and plywood but never the pour however having removing as many as I have I can say with 100% confidence the remaining wood was still holding moisture this fact will inhibit the bond if you noticed the dark color of the wood on the floor that was because it was wet also by putting the foam to (keep the water out) I can tell you from experience that polyurethane foam also soaks up and holds water but I also would've taken the motorwell out and gotten the rest of the wood out it really wouldn't have been that much trouble and he would've had a better job getting all the rotten wood out I did like his angle aluminum over the top idea instead of using the old piece and I do applaude him for trying to do it himself n do like the pour transom be advised i am not bagging on his work but trying to help others who may read this
Amazing how much shit one dude who has no idea what he is doing can do wrong ! FFS, expanding foam ?
I did my transom like this. Your video was so so helpful. It went very very well and smoothly.
Hi Matt. Good to hear! I'm glad it helped. So far mine has been performing flawlessly. I'm sure yours will too.
I have a chance to buy a LUND with a great motor and trailer. The boat is in good shape but the transom was looking about like yours. I was ready to walk away from it until I saw this video. Great job and thanks for making this.
Hi JB Shark. It wasn't too bad to do. Anyone with a little know how can get it done. Don't listen to all the naysayers on here. I've been using it for over a year now and it has been flawless. Good luck on the build.
very impressive. great outcome, function and form. bravo.
If anyone else replaces their transom this way, I would suggest inserting the 2" angled spacers with the peaks facing the ground. It appeared to me that at least some if the spacers were inserted with the peaks pointed upwards, which probably created air pockets underneath. Admittedly it's a minor point but I'd rather not have air pockets in my transom. No disrespect meant towards this person...I admire his efforts.
I agree. I would’ve used some body hammers and straighten the transom on the exterior and use heat and water to quench to shrink the metal to take the wrinkles out. I would’ve also inserted some Kevlar cloth. Especially at the corners and the bottom and top edge.
I agree!!! this way there is no AIR POCKETS!!!
Looks good to me. Never heard of this stuff before. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment. It really did work great!
I used Rjay on my stingers and transom and it will never have to be replaced again! I love that stuff!
I love this stuff. I've seen several different manufactures now, and they all seem pretty great. I'm sure it will outlast the boat.
Strong work buddy. You've stuck around and replied to comments of all sorts. Kudos to you.
I run a 1996, 17' Alumacraft. Taking it out on the river for some catfishing tomorrow night. You can bet I'll be checking the transom in the morning!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I try, but sometimes I need a break of all the negativity. It's people like you that keep me motivated.
@@GoMidwestFishing Hey man, your video title is an eye catcher for sure.. it peeked my curiosity right away when I read 'liquid transom'. I'm not going to lie.. there were a lot of moments where I cringed, and then thought to myself: "that's not going to work... well, it was worth a shot.." But then you came at the problem from a different angle and found a reasonable solution with the resources and skill level available to you and completely proved me wrong!!! And did so in the most modest, informative and thorough way possible!! And guess what, as many of the comments that I've read here can attest to, some mistakes were made, a lot of lessons were learned, but most importantly, you inspired a lot of people to lose that initial fear, and just take the plunge and do your best and hope for a good outcome. Because at the end of the day, "there are multiple ways to skin the cow".. and you sir made it work in an economic and efficient-for-you manner, so kudos to you my friend and to hell with all the "experts" and naysayers. I'll start believing them once I've seen their documented and filmed version of such transom repair/replacement.. until then.. to hell with them!!!
@@rudytamayo2646 Wow, That made me smile. Thanks for that.
@@GoMidwestFishing glad to hear it man 👍👍👍 keep up the good work 🍻💪💪💪
Thanks for video. I believe the possible increase in speed was from raising engine height, 2" less drag very noticeable in smaller vessels. 88spl is beast of engine. Hard finding more power for weight ratio.
I believe the speed increase was from raising the motor. Many people have said the same thing, so that's probably the reason. I thought about replacing the engine, but after many comments on what a great engine that is, I decided to keep it. It still runs great! Thanks for watching.
Kudos to you for keeping this video up and still allow comments despite all the haters and their comments. My thoughts after watching the whole thing is this is a good solution to a problem. Is it the best solution? No, I think removing the entire aft interior and transom skin, then installing new, properly treated wood is the top shelf solution. This method however is far less time and labor intensive. The costs would be similar (you needed that 3rd bucket) as long as you could handle all the work yourself and have all the tools. You also need a good partner to help you buck back all the structural rivets in the transom. I think it got you back on the water fairly quick, working by yourself, certainly as cost effective as any other method and it will work for you. I was very happy to see you add that final piece of 1/4" aluminum. Good work, tight lines and thank you for the video!
Thanks for the constructive feedback. I've thought more than once about taking it down, but I realize with lots of views, comes lots of comments, good and bad. I was originally going to remove the skins, but I wasn't sure I could reconstruct it properly, so I did what I knew I could do. Its definitely not perfect, but it has been holding up well and it got me back on the water.
@@GoMidwestFishing Think we all learned from the video, and some good input from viewers. Appreciate you did the video ! Follow up updates will be appreciated .
there is a huge difference between a "hater" and a very concerned professional friend
Great video, very helpful and encouraging.
Thanks for sharing.
Just to let you know I'm not saying you are doing any thing wrong I just wanted to let you and others know it can be done much easier and cheaper but you are doing a great job
Hey, great job Midwest, I also used the same Carbon core for a fiberglass boat I had, I as you had the same result, and I also finished the top with Aluminum angle, it made me proud watching you go through the same moves to finish.
Hi Gary. That's great to hear. It makes me feel like I was on the right track then. Its been holding up great, and I love it. I'm glad it worked for you too.
Nice job. Little concerned where the composite meets and joins to the remainder of the old wood transom. Time will tell. Please keep us updated on this repair. Have fun fishing.
Drilling some holes into the left and right wood sections and pushing rebar into the holes and leaving the rebar sticking out two to three inches would tie and bond the wood to the core material for added strength. What is the beehive that someone talked about?
Excellent work. Well explained. One question that concerns me is the integrity of the transom really depends on how the transom is attached to the boat as a uniform one unit piece. What is holding the transom in place (excluding the aluminium each side) is the bond between the epoxy and the existing rotten transom. I trust the epoxy has bonded to the existing transom material well.
In otherwords if the aluminium was not there it is solely up to the joint strength between the two materials that is holding your motor in place.
Thanks for the comment. The only part of the old transom left was up in the corners, and that wood was still pretty solid. Otherwise the entire cavity was filled with the resin and formed one big piece. There are several bolts going through the transom too that hold it in place. Its very solid and not going anywhere. I guess I'm not entirely sure what you are asking, but I can tell you that it has held up perfectly after several fishing seasons now.
@@GoMidwestFishing Hi I have a soft transom in one place, the point I was making is the transom can only be as strong as the connection to the boat, the aluminum or fibreglass formwork? can not offer any substantial strength. The only strength can be where the joint of the remains of the transom join to the resin, and without some physical reinforcement to the joint. Not sure I would be happy strapping my 130hp to the back of the boat. Again a great video u did . Mike in NZ
Nice job my friend, I've been working on those rascals for over 40 years and have done quite a few of them and floors
Hi Jeff. Thank you for the nice comment.
Jeff, would be interested in a transom and floor job on a 24 foot four winns liberator with my assistance?
Thanks for this video. I think what you've done is very challenging and interesting. The techniques you used and problem solving skills were far more helpful than repairing the transom.
Beyond boating, using that stuff for other applications and using the drill to pulverize the rotted wood is very intelligent and smart. In fact, I can think of a number of what would have been impossible jobs other than boating application , can now be tackled with your technique and liquid Carbon core mix. Thank you and tight lines.
Your welcome. You are one of the few who really "gets it." This video was really about problem solving and finding ways to overcome obstacles. These techniques can be applied to anything. I learn by doing, which means I will make mistakes and it may not be perfect the first time, but now I have that experience behind me if I ever do it again.
Hey pal, I’m a little envious on the way that you pick that motor up using the auto jack… How many guys have auto jacks in their garage is huh??
I’m not sure if I said this before, no matter long or short videos, always so interesting and entertaining to watch, great job my man!
I'm glad you found my informational videos interesting to watch. I try to keep the boring parts out. I appreciate you watching even though you may never need to know this stuff.
@@GoMidwestFishing it was absolutely not boring, it's always fun and interesting to see someone doing a "half ass job" and don't even know it
GREAT VID! Thank you. Now I will have the confidence to fix mine.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck on yours!
I'm going to do something similar to a fiberglass Key West that the transom has been braced with metal and is really showing that bow in it now. Your video has give me some ideas and can help me make some decisions on materials and methods.
Thanks Bob. There are many ways to do this job. Find the way that works best for you. I'm happy that you got some ideas from this video. Good luck!
Good video. That product would probably work great for sailboat rudder repair too. Placing in some rebar would have really added some strength.
Looks good BUT I think you should have tied in the outer framing to the outside edges and also put in some 2 inch beahive core before filling .
I love epoxy for some jobs but with a 400 lb motor twisting and turning thats a lot of torque on that transom.
But looks like i will hold up for a few years 👍👍🚤🚤🚢🚤🚢.
Good job
Nicely done!😊
Good video man it looks like a good job from my house I wish I knew they sold liquid I’ve changed probably 3or 4 transoms but we used wood 👍
I didn't realize they sold liquid either. I thought I may have come up with a great idea, so I researched it and realized someone already makes it! It works great.
I appreciate all the work you put into this video. Plenty of frustration to be had without all the time to set up cameras and what not. Good info. Thanks!
Thanks for the nice comment. It does complicate things to film it all, but I know there are many people trying to do the same thing, so hopefully it helps you by watching someone else do it first.
A skill saw set for shallow cut cuts aluminum like butter. Hope that transom holds up for you
Great video, thanks for taking the time!
Thanks Steve. I appreciate the feedback.
Nice Job..turned out much better than I would have thought. Thanks for the upload.
Thanks Ray. Its been working great. I could have done a few things better, but it still works fine as is.
Doesn’t matter how strong the product is, if you don’t tie it in with the rest of the boat you will have two things....
1) A boat
2) A transom
I respect your efforts.
Yet that is exactly how transoms are built. When I was a kid, I did fiberglass work on boats. I think I rebuilt probably 10 outboard motorboat transoms. The strength is achieved by sandwiching the transom between the inner and outer skins of the boat. It looks to me that the resin used produces a pretty good bond with the aluminum, adding to that strength. The only issue I can see with it is that unlike plywood, the resin probably doesn't have a whole lot of structural strength across the width of the boat. So it may eventually develop cracks. Maybe it has glass fiber reinforcement, I don't know.
@@JW-fq1pp Depends how much flex the cured product has. Apparently it is designed to have some flex and is not brittle.
@@JW-fq1pp that is not wnat he is talking about. He is talking about the fact that the transom is not complete now. He failed to do the whole job in order to save 200 dollars. It will bite him or someone else one day when that transom rips the back of the boat off. Not IF but when
Looks like a great job and I appreciate the video . I am facing a similar repair on a bigger boat that has inboards. The only thing I’m curious about is if I could drive some kind of rod into the side wood kind of like rebar to increase the strength as a whole? I was quoted $5000-$6000 to do this repair and based on your video I’m thinking I can do it myself for around $1200. Thanks again for the video.
Looking back on mine, I think adding some kind of rebar would have been a better way of doing it. I don't see why you couldn't do it that way. Good luck on your build!
Over all job score is A. Top cap B+, ingenuity A+, work A. Camera skills A. After all that it doesn't matter what I think what matters is what you think. And looks like you're happy with it. So then it was a success. Thanks for the inspiration real red-blooded American Fisherman. Doesn't see a problem only sees the solution! Hats off to you my friend. Did a better job than I could have done that's for sure? Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Nice piece of work you did. Probably outlive the rest of the boat! And don't listen to those backyard Sunday quarterbacks that ain't never fixed anything in their lives. Let's see you do better and until ya do gramps use to say "don't tell me to show me! And until ya do quit flapping your jaws like an old fisherman's wife"
Your Gramps sounds like a smart man. Thanks for the report card. Looks like I did pretty good. 😁
I like the job you did, well done. As long as you're happy with it, that's all that really matters.
Hi Steve. I'm actually very happy with it. Even if I didn't do it perfectly, you wouldn't know it. It still looks like the day I made it. Thanks for the comment.
Good repair and it looked like there was no flex. The speed gain is from raising the motor those couple inches which trimmed the prop. You could have scraped the remaining mix out of the buckets and epoxied a laminate of plywood for the void. I would have used a flexible shaft drill and inserted some hardwood dowels to tie the wood with the eyebolts to the new transom pour. Maybe buoyancy foam would have been a better choice, it doesn't break down in water.
Buoyancy foam doesn't break down in water ? LOL
I used the same stuff for mine, worked out great, it’s stronger than OEM and lighter.
I agree. This stuff is strong! Glad to know someone else used it too.
I used Sea Cast on a boat one time. Gutted out all the old rotten wood, cleaned it all up, mixed the product and poured it in. Made a bullet proof transom.
Yep, its basically the same stuff. I'm glad to hear that it worked out for you. This stuff is amazing.
You could of poured gel-coat, polyester or similar with some fiberglass mat to fill that up, I actually just did something similar and it turned out great, and lol I used great stuff hose lol I couldn’t by one.
Nice camera work n job👍🏼
How much weight does this have compared to the wood? Also between the expanding form and the Carbon-Core how did you allow for drainage at the back of the boat? And if you could please do a follow up vid on how it is holding up after a season or two of use on the water. Thanks for the information on an option that I hadn't heard about.
The carbon core weighs 45 pounds per 5 gallon pail. I used 2 pails, so it weighs 90lbs. I've used the boat hard since then. Running at full speed though rough water. It's been flawless. Super solid. I really like it. As far as drainage, the transom doesn't go to the bottom of the boat. Water still flows under the floorboards and out the drain plug.
@@GoMidwestFishing thanks I boat a 100 dollar boat I want to learn how to. It is a 60s that was the same as my aunt had.
Some useful nuggets of information in here, but damn, son... You really ARE the undisputed King of Half-Ass, aren't ya?
f sure
Very interesting video, I would've drilled some holes into the wood that was left for the carbon core to into and grab.. I know you said it's supposed to bond with the wood, I was thinking it could help strengthen it a little more. Thankbyou for sharing , good job
😳
I was 20 miles from the gulf 15 miles from any ramp on the Suwannee in pitch blackness.
Id want all that wood out and more alloy support and id lift the entire boat with the hoist on that motor and jumped up and down in the back. Id rather is break now. Then be swimming in the dark on a outgoing tide of 8 mph with swamps on both sides. Needs to be redone.
Nice job and great idea.
You should overlap the trim pieces on the transom so that the angled aluminum you bought is covered by the curved side trim pieces that way water will naturally flow over the transom trim and off the transom instead of flowing down the curved corner trim pieces and then under the angled aluminum trim piece which will naturally funnel the water into the transom that’s not what you want. Maybe it’s not a big deal just something that caught my attention.
I agree. The reason I didn't is because it wouldn't fit under that corner piece. Good point though. The carbon core will never rot, so a little water leakage shouldn't hurt it. Thanks for the comment.
How do you think that stuff would do if poured into the floor of an old boat? I've got an 18 footer with the entire floor removed and a couple stringers removed that rotted out. My thinking is if it will hold your motor, it could probably make the hull stronger than ever before. (I'm not a fan of fiberglass)
Oh man, that's a tough one. It's designed as a transom material, so using it for anything else would be an experiment. It would add extra weight to your boat compared to fiberglass. I'm also not sure how it would hold up as a thin layer instead of a 2 inch thick slab. If you do use it, let me know how it turns out.
to make a solid bilge area without stringers only would stop all flex your boat needs to maintain integrity. Like this repair, in the short term it is working. In the long term you will kill your hull. Stringers coincide with the ridges under your boat. They are needed as is areas without to allow for flex among other things.
Nicely done!
Hope your weekend has been goid brother now that is a top fix
Thanks. Have a great week!
Not sure if you tried to be ironic.... it's definitely not a good job
Great stuff is not closed cell foam, as others have mentioned, but even marine closed cell two part will absorb water eventually. All about how much water getting to it.
Really makes me mad that boat builders don't water proof the wood. If they put on a few coats of poly resin on it, it would greatly extend it's life.
Neat product on the liquid pour thou. Never heard of it.
Perfect video on what not to do.it’s actually sad that this video is meant as a serious repair video and not a worse imitation of an episode of the Red Green show. He is actually using liquid duct tape! LMAO
Idk man have you seen the carbon core video that stuff tested stronger then plywood .
You couldn’t be more wrong. These liquid transom product are more durable, and more structurally sound than any marine plywood made.
@@buellb0y possible, in perfect world, but that would be if you removed all of the rotted wood and the liquid could get decent adhesion to all surfaces between skins and on the side edges. And all the surfaces were thoroughly cleaned from debris and any contamination or oils.... and then the transom sealed to prevent further water intrusion, But that’s not what occurred here. Bottom line there is a right way and a wrong way, and there was not a lot of “right” going on here. The remaining wood WILL deteriorate because spray foam is not a waterproof barrier. And when the transom buckles and flexes later on and needs to be fixed, again, the process will be a debacle. The moral of the story is these snake oil solutions are temporary and cheap, and while delaying the inevitable, nothing beats doing it right the first time.
@@buellb0y only when properly installed.
@@jhudds67 thats a really long paragraph to tell everyone that you have zero clue what you're talking about.
Good job their buddy. Looks great and very clear instruction on how you did it.
Thanks Bear Knuckles. (great name BTW) Its been working good for me, so I'm very happy with it.
The transom was backed with an untreated Parallam.....At least the wood in the transom wasn't CCA pressure treated.....The aluminum would have probably been destroyed......For small easy aluminum fixes there is a compound I use called Splash....It's a 2 part epoxy and you mix it underwater wearing gloves.....The result is like concrete.....Great looking finished product Rande!!
Great tip! I just looked up that splash product. I will keep that in mind next time I have a repair to do. Thanks Wes.
That expanding foam absorbs water. Th sides of the hull takes all the force to bad you did not clean all of the rotten wood out.
*too bad
I knew the comment section was gonna be juicy on this one... I just had to look. I'm no expert, but it appears to me to be stronger then it was... so at a minimum a life extender for this boat. I'm a fan of the mentality of doing things as cheaply as possible if the final result looks and performs properly. Looks wise you nailed it. Performance wise I cannot imagine that void space and that top cap working out. Have that top cap welded and see about if you can pour new material on the existing material and if they will bond correctly. If so get rid of that board that you left and no way it's not stronger or better then a brand new particle board transom. Sorry for the long comment, I wish you the best!
Hi Tim. I appreciate your thoughts. I would have to agree with most of what you said. The original top cap was just folded over without actually being connected to the inner side. That's why I didn't permanently connect the top cap together. I'm going to talk to carbon core to see if you can pour new product over old. The instructions say to do it in one continuous pour, so I'd assume probably not. No worries about the long comment. I like when people put some thought into what they want to say, and give some helpful feedback. I learn as I do things, so I enjoy hearing other opinions.
I'm 51 now but 33 years ago I did a transom repair too a 71 fiberglass woodson trihull. I pulled the screws and lifted the gunwales removed all the bad wood in the transom from side to side. Then I fiberglassed coated and layered marine grade plywood then cut it to shape using a template and slid it into the transom. Put all new stainless bolts and hardware in and bolted the motor back up with stainless bolts. That boat was still in use with a new motor 10 years ago.
Sounds like you did a great job if its still going.
Evinrude 88 what a piece of perfection, No Yamaha will ever measure up to the Johnson/Evinrude 70 and 88, these were truly time machines, never fail to start
I agree. It has been a solid runner since I've owned it.
Good job. BTW, Your boat is faster because you raised the engine height. Less drag.
Your right. It is about an inch higher. I didn't even consider that as the reason. Thanks for the input.
@@GoMidwestFishing you left the wooden corners, that is a crucial structural area. The top corners tie into the transom as it spans the FULL WIDTH. Effectively forming a box at the back of the boat. There is no mechanical connection between the filler and the wooden corners. This could fail spectacularly and injure yourself or others.
Plus the composite is lighter than rotted wood.
As someone familiar with composites, I was really skeptical about the claims that a liquid resin based product would provide the necessary tensile strength without any cloth or mat liner. I looked up the manufacturer’s website and saw it is indeed not recommended for the way you chose to use it. They recommend it for use with a liner, cloth, or mat.
Hi Drewdoestrucks. Thanks for the comment. Yes, they do recommend using a fiberglass liner if you are pouring it into a template. That would be the same install process as using coosa board or plywood. It would require removing the front or back aluminum to access the space. It can also be used as I did, by pouring it directly into the transom area. I've been using it for two years now without any issues, so I can confirm it does work well.
@@GoMidwestFishing I watched your follow up video. I suppose if it works it works. I am doing something similar but with better access. I think I’m gonna use a more traditional fiberglass layup.
👍 you got a steady hand Rande. I would have had that 5 gal bucket 🪣 all over the floor. Lol....Looks good
I was a little worried about that. It poured much better than I expected. That could have been a huge mess.
Dude. You have way more patience than i would ever have! I just replaced the wood on mine. Just saying, but awesome video
i applaud your effort on this but have a primary concern and suggestion. Structurally, the vertical joint between the new carbon core and the old wood on the left and right is not going to be able to take much stress. This leaves the thin aluminum on the front and back to take a lot of the load. if you see a bend or crack in the aluminum at this location (front or back) it is time to move on. My suggestion is to, from the top preferably, remove the rest of the wood on the left and right. See what carbon core says about cold joints (can it be placed on itself once cured). if it bonds well, pour that back where the wood has been left. Sorry for the novel. Ignore the haters and tight lines!
1
Should have put pipe tubes where the bolts go through to hold the engine on.
You did one heck of a job! Interesting video.
Thanks. Really appreciate it.
Very informative.
I'm about to 😊start replacing a transom on a 1073 Hewescraft.
Thanks for the tips .
1973
Glad to help
They make a fiberglass laced bondo. I used to call it Tiger Hair. I would use that to fill in the remaining space.
Thanks for the info. I will look into that.
@@GoMidwestFishing Evercoat still makes it. Google FR 1190 Tiger Hair
@@L2fish Will do. Thanks!
Actually, many manufacturers use that stuff for complete transoms. It is incredibly hard and dense...you can even drill and tap it. The problem is...HE DIDN’T REDO THE ENTIRE TRANSOM!! He has an entirely free-floating center section, not physically attached to the wood outer sections and not attached to either of the boat’s side hulls. It will fail with very little warning.
Exactly!
I don't know much about boat construction, but was wondering what it was attached to,so basically it's the skin of the boat doing structural work?
@@matthewholzmueller6292 yup, corner caps or gussets tie into the wooden sections and the entire side of the boat holds the transom. The only thing holding the transom here is the aluminum top rail. Not good. If he had removed all the wood and poured the ENTIRE transom it would probably be ok.
I think you are right i wouldn't want that boat after he is done.
Yep, should have removed all the wood, duct taped over the top rail section all the way up the sides, and poured in from the sides. Nothing holding that 2x20 in that void except aluminum skin and a bunch of wood screws.
Nice job! I'm impressed!
Good way to do it. Much better than wood. In marine industry we use Chockfast or Epocast or Quanticast between foundation and engines, gearboxes etc. I think this will work well here too. It is incredible strong.
Thanks for the info
Great video! Interested for a follow up to see how this is holding up. I do no understand where the strength, keeping it from sheering, cracking would come from? Cannot understand why boats have wood that is not sealed or coated in them. That didn't even look like marine plywood. I hope the poly foam was closed cell. I'd use Sikaflex 591 or 3M 5200 to seal the aluminum not that Flex junk. I'd use the same where the aluminum comes together. That flex stuff might last a year or two, it is just siliconized rubber. I always use 3M 5200 for marine (I'm on salt water) jobs, and for things I never want to come apart and 3M 4200 for things I want to seal but may disassemble in the future.
Thanks for all the info. It might come in handy in the future.
Because both boat makers, and the repair bunch want to do it on the cheap. Several years ago I replaced the transom and stringers in a 19' bass boat I owned, and I started looking for appropriate plywood. I called several companies that repaired boat transoms, and they all said "Huh?" when I asked where they got their Douglas Marine grade plywood. All of them told me they just used treated exterior plywood, which is why it spits the resin/glass after a few years. I finally find 4X8 3/4" thick Douglas at a Hardwood specialty store. Sanded them, glassed them and sandwiched them together with lag bolts. Sanded that down to the right thickness then glassed it in. The rest of the boat may fall apart, but that transom looks like a dinner table.
@@Rem1061 Wood transoms are not “cheap”. This is a riveted aluminum skinned boat. Wood is strong and will last a lifetime if taken care of. This transom failed because someone allowed water to enter the transom probably by drilling into it with no proper sealer.
There is no such thing as “Marine Grade” plywood. That is a marketing tool used to attract buyers. This plywood is only void free, thin layered and is constructed with ordinary exterior plywood glue.
Wood is light, strong, flexible and a perfectly fine choice for rivet boats.
Marine plywood is a myth
@@Ibanezflyingfingers Pretty sure I never said wood transoms are "cheap" since I have built them myself. The transoms most companies PUT IN are made from cheap pine plywood which spits the resin within a few years. Douglas Fir is the best (or one of the best) marine grade plywood to use.
To weld aluminum you really need someone with a tig welder to the job that way it looks like a pro did it.
I agree! Never tried welding aluminum before and wanted to experiment. There was too much surface area to heat up, so it never got hot enough. Thanks for the feedback.
The problem with that is finding someone that CAN weld it that wants to get involved. This is a pretty Mickey Mouse repair of a major structural part of the boat and aluminum can be hard to weld well even with the right equipment. Maybe he earns himself a hundred bucks on welding it, but if it breaks and the boat sinks he could easily spend many times that defending himself from a lawsuit from the next of kin.
@@GoMidwestFishing Surprised you didn't want to practice first on some scrap metal if you'd never tried it before.
@@the_omg3242 the welder will only cover his work / welding not the entire boat. Mainly all he would do is seal up the crack where the caulking was removed. If the entire transom fell off the boat it would not be his problem. You're getting too technical talking anything more.
@@the_omg3242 Yeah, that might have helped. My main concern (which was correct) was thinking the surface was too large to get got enough. It was just an idea, so I thought I'd try it.
I see transom repair videos everywhere! Im no expert but do own several boats use transom savers on my boats never have hade pulling and warping 2 of my 30 year old+ boats, have had some support their whole lives never once had an issue
I also use transom savers on my boats. The real problem is that the transom is made of wood, and if it gets wet enough, it will eventually rot. That's what is great about the composite transoms. They won't rot in water. Thanks Chris for the comment.
So many experts commented, did any offer to help do the work?
I would've done it just like you did. Good job man.
An electric chainsaw would have done it quickly and it would be easy to control too. I may be modifying the transom of an old original 13' whaler from 15" to 20" because the 15" motor selections are really limited now day's. If the transom is still solid then I will create an all aluminum sandwich to raise the transom. If its rotten then it will be an all wood and fiberglass project.
I've gotten several comments about using a chainsaw. There seems to be a debate whether or not its a good idea. I think it would work good as long as you don't destroy the boat in the process. Thanks for the comment.
The 2 mph came from moving the motor up one hole. Less in the water less drag
I believe your correct on that one. Its amazing what one inch higher will do.
Hey you did it good job I replaced my bass boats transom for about $300 using coosa board I ordered. It lasted 5 years
I would think Coosa should last longer than 5 years. Mine has lasted 4 years so far, and still looks like the day I put it in.
Yeah nice job.....like the way you explain in easy to understand language and also the way you did the job doesnt make the transom replacement look so complex...Cheers
Thanks Ken. I appreciate the feedback. I try to make videos for the average person (which I consider myself to be). I love hearing comments confirming that.