Likewise - very informative. Subscribed as I am doing the same on my Chaparral - floor replacement. Winter project so foaming (in Canada) May be some months into the new year. Cheers!
@@michaelromer2016 Do you happen to have your resin, Kevlar, foam supply list posted anywhere. Love to get some materials ordered. Cracking up on earlier videos complaining you weren't sealing the deck, rot, etc etc... LOL
Your videos are very thorough, I can see the need for that. I find myself skipping ahead, but I have done some regular fiberglass work where I can see you are targeting the newbie. Thats a good thing, and I am sure it is appreciated!
What density are you using ? I had bought some 16 lb from Us Compistes, it didn't expand well . I bought some fresh stock from another vender and it worked great
Might you know the maximum temp this mixture becomes and for approximately h ow long - when it sets? I have an app where I can see using this to fill voids (to help preventing rattling) in an interior car plastic panel. My concern is that this heat could distort the original shape of the interior panel. Do you know of any such similar products that have a lower cure temp.
I have a 88 Mako walkaround. Previous owner removed the foam under the cabin liner, which now moves around a bit in a choppy sea. The hull rattles above the water line when hit by ways. Any thoughts on how to get foam up into the sides and under the liner to support it?
I bought an old Wellcraft (1988 210 classic) about three weeks ago. Your excellent videos will come in handy for repairs. Did you do the sea trials of Canyon Lake?
Maichel I already subscribed. Thanks . Although I was not clear on the location of the holes. you kindly answered me : 3 holes . To the back, in the middle and to the front. If you had a scheme, drawing or tutorial, which is more didactic for beginners, I would appreciate it. Thank you. Health and prosperity and Peace for all!. great greeting
Hello You have amazing videos I was watching you measure the moisture content on a transom tear-out. Did you know those are about as worthless as trolling motors on a ship. They only measure the surface of wood. Moisture is measured by weight. Take a block of wood and soak it in water for a day and then start a daily weight measurement and at the end of 30 days see how much it weighs.😊 I did a test with calcium chloride and a piece of wood and in a box. I covered the box with some cloth and an unbelievable thing happened. The cloth absorbed all the moisture and this experiment was done in March of 2021 And to this day the cloth is sill as soaked as the day I started the experiment, unbelievable. I’m wondering if you were to try this if a damp cloth like this would be beneficial in your trade and perhaps it could slow down a drying process in anything that needs to cure slowly. Re; my comment about the moisture meter. I’m guessing you only need the surface free of moisture to lay the glass on?
No recomendable si se va a sellar la zona y tengamos madera descubierta en la parte interior , al encapsular la zona queda la humedad y por efecto del calor sufre condensación y la madera se degradaria por el pasar del tiempo , hasta puede pudrirse ya que es un material organico
Thankyou vm very useful your tutorial. I need fill empty spaces in two sent of my canoe. and I can see a lot of more security filling that air spaces. But I dont know where to do the holes .i supose one big in the top but I" living in South America and Is not easy to obtain closed cell liquid urethane foam expanded .Health for you and yours
I recommend 3 holes. One towards the rear, middle, and lastly in the front. This gives the best opportunity for foam to reach all areas. Please subscribe!
Quick one foaming a bow section (commercial boat building) I wasn't paying attention to mixture it came shooting out that hole it was whistling like a train and I'm rushing to scrape away and at same time hide excess,it was funny as hell no one saw it no cameras then so I got away with it and if that boat ever sinks it won't be by the bow!
The msds sheet should have all the specs for any product used including expansion factors and quantities as well as pupose use and other pertinent data that should be read prior to use of any such product. Msds sheets can be obtained at place of purchase. Msds is .anufacturers specifications and data sheet.
For those who don't know and don't want to damage the threads for your cap, just stick a flat head screw driver we through the inner cap seal. And then press down gently and pri off the cap. You can still cover your tin if you don't use it all.
Es contraproducente , la expansión necesita el calor generado por el cambio de estado , si alteramos la temperatura y alarga el tiempo necesario que necesita la expansión , va presentar deformación ,alterando su estructura del núcleo , no va ser homogéneo , para sistemas de frio no serviría , quizas como relleno , pero eso implica que tengamos que usar mas material , me di cuenta de eso cuando trabajaba en ambientes fríos
The A/B foam gets kinda pricey... you can add bits of styrofoam to the mix. It is a closed cell foam and is actually lighter then the marine expanding foam. It works great, fills the voids and saves you tons of $$$. Have not tried it in a transom though...
Thank you for this very interesting and informative tutorial. I was wondering if you retained the plywood discs and refitted and plugged them using epoxy, or if that wasn't necessary.
For the open holes one option is you can cut out the foam approximately the thickness of the floor then just fill the holes with Bondo or auto body filler, let harden, sand flush and smooth then paint.
Alex, no problem. I’m building a floor here in a month on the Glastron series. Subscribe and take a look there as I will detail it even further. Thanks!!!
Foam is expensive, i collected mayby 250+ 2 liter water bottles. Took the labels off rinsed fresh water and dried them then put the caps back on and shaved them under the sole, then fomed them all in. Save lots money, used maybe 1 gallon of foam on 16ft hull.
Interesting Video, but honestly, i would never ever use foam again in a boat. I just removed the old foam from my boat and it was soaked with water….a real pain. The water was most probably coming in from the top over the years or even condensation. There was no way to see that water in the bilge as it was captured within the foam. Now i will do a sort of ladder with stringers which i will cut from foam and than laminate over with fibreglass and epoxy. The different compartments will have small holes at the bottom of them so the water (if any) can travel freely to the bilge….like that water can besten, an even more important the bilgepump can do its job ! With the regard to the your deck…..i would also have glassed the deck with fibreglass and epoxy to seal it for ever !
Great point! I coated the deck in later videos. I have a video series now that is underway and no foam is used. I don’t drill holes between the various bulk heads, rather they are sealed from each other. Please subscribe!
I don’t know boat application but if you use it on a house you can spread studs to 24” on center. Pretty strong stuff. Close cell is completely waterproof. The only issue is that if the foam left any voids there will still be raw wood.
@@stephenc2296 I did my glastron cxv16 much smaller but i applied 2 coats of polyester resin to the sanded cut wood allowing each to harden for an hour between coats then assembled and all screws and holes touched up with polyester resin during assembly . Don’t leave any wood bare and coat before assembly or you could do like many manufacturers and just use bare wood many do lolo = rotten stringers and floor 10-15 years = new boat sale lolo.Ps I work in industrial electronics and mechanical i can believe some of the boat manufacturers using cheap staples on back of Seats and cheap metal staples = rust and on wiring fire waiting to happen . I use stainless staples on seat bottoms pads and run all wiring in wire loom and heat shrink and solder all connectors and water proof and lots of fuses
The boat needs to be lifted at one end to assist in the pour going to the very end, mixing it with just a couple of stirs is sufficient because it will mix further as you pour it through the hole. It if is already foaming it is far to late and will not travel to the furthest reaches before it as gone completely off consequently leaving air pockets..
@@pivertigineux se debe evitar dejar bolsas de aire , ya que puede presentar filtraciones y se alojaría en esas zonas , por que el agua ingresa molécula por molécula y es difícil observarla, lo mejor es inyectar la zona de un solo vertido , calculando y midiendo el volumen de espacio con relación del peso de la espuma, cuanto más denso la espuma el sellado será más óptimo
Can you add A/B foam to an open compartment? Reason I ask is I’d like to add foam to my floor but also see/make sure it’s going where I want, and install floor over top later on.
You could do that but the process to shape the foam afterwards is a mess. It’s common for the foam to not cover 100% of the inner compartments. The foam is meant as a plan B.
Es aplicable, pero tiene que ser mayormente denso y eso se consigue con cálculos , el volumen del espacio a inyectar y el peso del material (foam) y protejerla antes del inyectado con madera contrachapada para uso marino, ya que la espuma no debe estar expuesta por lo delicado que es.
Foam is required by US coast Guard Regulations on new boats. Foam is not waterproof it is meant to Displace water in compartments in the event the boat sinks. It should float at or just partially below the surface. Foam usually becomes waterlogged when people do not keep their bilges dry as much as possible. Also by not properly sealing Hull or floor penetrations.
@@bowlweevil4161 All two part foams will soak up water over time. Read the specs. Coast guard only tests for 30 days. Polyethylene is the proper foam. Available in sheets, pool noodles.
I have an air Inflatable kayak it's getting older has a lot of little holes. Curious if I were to pour some Marine foam inside instead of air?? I can leave it inside the rubber kayak.. Or cut it out and have a all foam kayak us the rubber like a mold.!i
The rubber foam isn’t rigid enough to work as a mold. Once you started the pour the kayak would take on an odd shape and certain voids would be visible.
tip tap a screwdriver into the seal on part b. pierce it and pop it off, can still use the original cap , what you did with the channel locks was kinda dumb.
The softness is that you didn’t fully mix the product. To reduce cleanup... take a damp sponge to the parameter of the holes which will reduce the bonding and simplify cleanup. I use foam with a 2 second cream time so chance of spillage is greater.
I am curious if anyone has experience pouring the two part, foam in the hull unmixed? Letting it mingle under the deck??? I know lazy, but i hate rushing and making a mess! LOL. PS. you seem to have a great extra hand there, thinks ahead for you with mixer etc. Hard to find...
Letting them mix underneath is not advised. The foam only activates once the two parts are stirred. If you worried, pour the mix when it is cooler outside. The hotter it is outside the less time you have to pour it.
if you use a mixer tube then it would potentially work but the key is to get the ratios at exactly 50/50 the big guys buy this stuff in 45 gal drums but they use metered pumps through a mixer tube at the tip to dispense it Regardless it must be mixed
nick king.. Yes it`s contain a lot of isocyanate and if you not mix this right, it`s not blended right, then the core of foam not get hardened, the result of this is leaking isocyanate for a long long time
@@dragstardragstar2016 i got poisoned from 2 cans of g-t stu-f Comsumer grade expandable canned foam insulation . I was applying using it using the plastic tube that screws to the nozzle while wearing a new carbon filtered N95 half mask and goggles nitrile gloves outside injected it in to 6 1/2 holes in my new boat floor stand above the boat sides with a light wind at my back . At no time did my respirator covered face dip below the side of my 16 foot glastron boat and work time was 4-5 min with wind at my back . I should have taken them to court the canned foam only said contains MDI =methyl di isocyanate but disguised . Can you imagine some mom or dad applying that poison to a child’s bed room or anywhere in the house criminal .Big box building stores carry 1000 of cans of this poison . Also I worked in auto body as a kid to college it just came in use in auto refinishing as I graduated in electronics, many of my friend in auto body had to quit a few years later because of isocyanate poisoning
Also for the record isocyanate has no chemical smell and even sanding clearcoat or old auto paint releases isocyanate. Also using construction glues windshield sealer and panel bonkers contain isocyanate not all but most . I recently replaced rockers on a f150 welded rockers and most of cab corners but did not want to pull box so I used epoxy panel bond on the back of the cab and screws till it hardened but most panel bond is not epoxy but is polyurethane and hardener is isocyanate. No wonder people get sick when is used to for home insulation
You don't measure your cavity and mix to fill just that area? I have watched several others and that is what they say to do so you don't over fill and crack something.
You never close it in no matter what expanding foam you use. It won't crack if it has somewhere to go. I had a boss on a demo cut a grove in a foundation wall and put expanding foam in it and nailed a board overtop. Split a 9 inch thick cement foundation wall into pieces. Never ever close in expanding foam.
Hi. I saw that you used 2 lb. density foam. I understand that there are multiple densities available. Any idea what the benefits are between low density ( 2 lb. like you used) and high density foam ( up to 16 lb. density)? I figure the low density equals lower total weight added to the boat. Any other advantages?
@@SJV82 afirmativo , es más ventajoso ya que evita que se filtre el agua y se alojé en la zona de la espuma y ocasione pudrición, ya que el agua contiene micro organismos marinos y eso conlleva a descomponerse
just curious why that deck has no lamination on the bottom side at all? Or does it? It looked like it had none when looking at the holes. I always recommend against wood on a boat, however if fully sealed with glass, it will not ever rot. if you did not lay any glass on bottom or at the very least coat it with a layer of epoxy or poly resin, that floor will rot 100% in a few years. I hope not, but in my experience, it will rot. It sucks that wood rots like it does but it is just not made to get wet. Especially not that wood, that looks to be redwood of some sort, not marine grade ply, but I could be wrong with that as well. You took so much attention to detail with foam! This comment is not meant to bash you or your work, just generally curious/figured id give my professional opinion.
Thanks for your comments! I did coat the bottom of the aquatek before installing it. There shouldn’t be any bare wood exposed. I’ve been hammering that floor since this project completed. Works great still. Very solid!
As a boat builder we rarely ever put the foam back in our rebuilds. It traps moisture and that is the reason the deck rotted in the first place. We also have gotten away from using plywood for decks and sterns. We are using koosa. A carbon board that will not rot ever and is totally none absorbent. We only use foam to install fuel tanks or around insulated boxes. Plywood sucks for decks.
@m4keyourself It wouldn't take more than a sample set to fill the paper thin linings of a cheap cooler. On the flip side, if you cared that much you'd likely be better off buying a good cooler. However the question remains posed and open to a valid answer, which "wtf" is not.
I am on day 3 of removing waterlogged foam from the bottom of my boat. I am at over 500 lbs already. This made me cringe. I understand the pros and cons to flotation foam. Still made me cringe to watch it go in.
Sean, I went back and forth for a while with the foam. It's a tough one, but even Amazon sells a knock off, closed cell foam for cheap, and it's too well priced to not install. Please hit that subscribe button! Thanks again.
Two part foams may say they are closed cell but they will break down with exposure to water and soak up water. Go to US Composites and read the data sheet. Especially when exposed to freeze thaw. Does not need to be submerged, just exposure. Two part foam needs to be COMPLETELY encapsulated. Pink foam boards will degrade pretty much instantly when exposed to fuel. Polyethylene foam will not soak up water and is chemically resistant. With the following at 14:30 and 21:30. ruclips.net/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/видео.html
The stuff is toxic as hell full of isocyanate,the isocyanate gas is heavier than air and filling the hull and you don’t smell it .I got poisoned doing same thing on my 16 foot glastron using 2 cans of expandable foam outside in light wind and wearing a n95 . First symptoms are runny stuffy nose eyes then hot flashes then can’t breath followed by huge mucus in lungs and drowning in you own fluids . Now everyone has a life time limit and it varies once your life time limit is reached even sanding clear coat 20 years old can trigger the same . Several friends had to quit auto body when isocyanate was used as a paint hardener
I have watched the whole video and it would just use less then requested and wait until you find the right material so that nothing is wasted because it too expensive to waste it
Because it is not waterproof! They break down, all two parts will soak up water. Watch the following at 14:30 and 21:30, ruclips.net/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/видео.html. Class dismissed!!
Gary this is not advised and will cause permanent and future damage to your stringers/hull. Foam will expand your hull/stringers to the point where they will break. I sheared a hull in half one time because of what you recommended. Don’t ever do that with commercial grade foam.
Having spent 40 years in the boat trade i have lost count of the jobs where i have had to dig soggy waterlogged foam out of tanks & double bottoms. None of it is waterproof, its utter shite.
ditto and 100% agreed .. and with the very bad mixing with a stick for 15 sec of this guy the chance of that PU being a nice closed celled structure and close to zero. A hand mix was better back in the days of R11 but in these days of R414B or now even less, it's near on impossible to hand mix.
I'll be epoxying XPS into my hull at some point. That stuff never waterlogs no matter how many years it spends in the ocean bobbing around killing marine life.
My friend bought a 16ft foam filled boat, just as you described it was a nightmare to clean out the wet sponge. How many foam hulls actually prove their worth?
Exactly I only do my own cars and boats but did work in a gm dealership for my entire teens and early twenties in auto body /and assisting mechanics with engine and transmission rebuilds and installs full time while attending school and college.Working there was a great education in its self I got a degree in swearing lolol to compliment my early years at a private school in England before moving to Canada lololo
@@merlin1346 I restore old car 15 years average age to personally drive here in Canada many have urethane foam in unibody it gives the doors pillars a nice beefy sound when you close the doors but it hold water and salt lolol. I oil undercoat all my personal but hard to get oil in to rockets foam filled lolo
Foam by its very nature is mainly air pockets and unless the area you are putting it in is totally water tight it will not act as a buoyancy aid. Those small air pockets can quickly be replace by water leaving a totally soggy mess weighing down your boat. The only way foam can act as a buoyancy aid is in small water tight compartments at the bow or sides of the boat.
I believe this type of foam is closed-cell, not open-cell, so it wouldn't absorb water. I don't think anyone would use open cell foam in this type of application.
@@hootowl6354 All two part foams will absorb water over time. read data sheets. :Polyethylene will not. Think pool noodles. A good boat manufacture will not use two part foam.
@@ricker76er Read the data sheets from the manufacture. Prolonged exposure to moisture. and the foam will fail. Does not have to be submerged .Just do a search on RUclips on replacing foam. Why are there so many videos about folks replacing wet foam if its "closed cell".?? The foam starts out closed cell but breaks down. Especially with freeze thaw. The foam holds water causes corrosion and defeats the purpose of it. Just trying to educate people.
@@bryanturner683 use two heavy duty trash bags to pour the foam into under the deck. Had this in my aluminum Jon boat that I recently removed to add some deck boxes. It allows the foam to expand but not stick to the aluminum. This was a manufacturer install, the boat is 2012 model and the foam and plastic bags were in great shape with zero degradation. By heavy duty bags I mean truly heavy duty like the big lawn bags.
I talked about this in other peoples’ comments. They use foam like this to lift peoples’ concrete drive ways up to level or their walkways. You cover it will your foot, good luck! I heard my stringers start cracking once when I made the mistake you mentioned.
I get why you like the idea of flotation but I've dug this stuff out when it's wet and seen the damage it does and there's no way this would ever go under my floor.
Sweet. You just guaranteed that all the wood in that boat is going to rot. One of the first things I've checked with every boat I've ever bought is if it has had foam poured. If it has, that'd it, I'm done. I've seen everything I need to see at that point, and I sure ain't going to buy it.
@@michaelromer2016 I just started a floor restoration on a 86 stratos and I found out they poured foam and it's a wet nightmare. And I was thinking...wouldn't pouring this foam in there clog the channel for water to drain to the back of the boat to the bilge or drain plug?
I do agree that the foam is a bit risky the problem with these older boats is most of them were built like that from the factory the foam actually does serve a couple purposes though and unless if you are going to add a ton of new stringers and wood in that hull to help strengthen it you actually kind of need it because the foam actually gives the hull a lot more structural integrity and I'm pretty sure it is also supposed to help the boat from sinking all the way down to the bottom of the lake in case if you were taking on water
Every bass boat that I have taken apart that had foam, the foam was one giant water logged sponge. That stuff is only good is you can seal it so water never comes in contact with it.
@@michaelromer2016 Depends on how often water contacts it. Do you hose out your boat? Is the foam 100% completely sealed? even if the wood doesnt rot, the foam will soak water and cant float.
Хобби
Likewise - very informative. Subscribed as I am doing the same on my Chaparral - floor replacement. Winter project so foaming (in Canada) May be some months into the new year. Cheers!
Thanks Paul!
dug a lot of that stuff out of boats when it became waterlogged, check monthly for dryness and expect to replace every few years.
Awesome work! just started demo on my '86 Chaparral xlc restore, will definitely use your videos for reference!
Thanks for your comments!
@@michaelromer2016 Do you happen to have your resin, Kevlar, foam supply list posted anywhere. Love to get some materials ordered.
Cracking up on earlier videos complaining you weren't sealing the deck, rot, etc etc... LOL
great video mate. hey once its sanded can you stand on the foam bits or do you glass in the timber again?
Your videos are very thorough, I can see the need for that. I find myself skipping ahead, but I have done some regular fiberglass work where I can see you are targeting the newbie. Thats a good thing, and I am sure it is appreciated!
Thanks for your wonderful comments!
What density are you using ? I had bought some 16 lb from Us Compistes, it didn't expand well . I bought some fresh stock from another vender and it worked great
Might you know the maximum temp this mixture becomes and for approximately h ow long - when it sets? I have an app where I can see using this to fill voids (to help preventing rattling) in an interior car plastic panel. My concern is that this heat could distort the original shape of the interior panel. Do you know of any such similar products that have a lower cure temp.
That was so satisfying to watch haha. Could you use more smaller diameter holes if it were a long area say 3x1 ft. Thanks subscribed.
Thanks. This vid helped me a lot!
After clean up so you plug up the pour holes with wood? do you leave them open? What is the next step? glass over the whole deck?
I have a 88 Mako walkaround. Previous owner removed the foam under the cabin liner, which now moves around a bit in a choppy sea. The hull rattles above the water line when hit by ways. Any thoughts on how to get foam up into the sides and under the liner to support it?
Just found your Channel, great job on the expansion foam. 💛👍👍🚤
I used US Composites on a deck re-core. Great products. Best price on epoxy.
So did you just use the foam to recore your deck? How did it do
Nice work good to know if you need to fix your floor
I bought an old Wellcraft (1988 210 classic) about three weeks ago. Your excellent videos will come in handy for repairs. Did you do the sea trials of Canyon Lake?
Bill L Most of the testing was in Lake Minnetonka. I have taken it for a lot of trips in Texas too. Not in Canyon Lake though.
Maichel I already subscribed. Thanks . Although I was not clear on the location of the holes. you kindly answered me : 3 holes . To the back, in the middle and to the front. If you had a scheme, drawing or tutorial, which is more didactic for beginners, I would appreciate it. Thank you. Health and prosperity and Peace for all!.
great greeting
its a nice video, can we make that PU foam out of part A and B mix as foam core material of fiberglass project for boat? thanks.
Hello
You have amazing videos
I was watching you measure the moisture content on a transom tear-out.
Did you know those are about as worthless as trolling motors on a ship.
They only measure the surface of wood.
Moisture is measured by weight.
Take a block of wood and soak it in water for a day and then start a daily weight measurement and at the end of 30 days see how much it weighs.😊
I did a test with calcium chloride and a piece of wood and in a box.
I covered the box with some cloth and an unbelievable thing happened.
The cloth absorbed all the moisture and this experiment was done in March of 2021
And to this day the cloth is sill as soaked as the day I started the experiment, unbelievable.
I’m wondering if you were to try this if a damp cloth like this would be beneficial in your trade and perhaps it could slow down a drying process in anything that needs to cure slowly.
Re; my comment about the moisture meter.
I’m guessing you only need the surface free of moisture to lay the glass on?
If you spray the inside with water lightly it will react faster, if its a hot day with high humidity it also helps.
No recomendable si se va a sellar la zona y tengamos madera descubierta en la parte interior , al encapsular la zona queda la humedad y por efecto del calor sufre condensación y la madera se degradaria por el pasar del tiempo , hasta puede pudrirse ya que es un material organico
Thankyou vm very useful your tutorial. I need fill empty spaces in two sent of my canoe. and I can see a lot of more security filling that air spaces. But I dont know where to do the holes .i supose one big in the top but I" living in South America and Is not easy to obtain closed cell liquid urethane foam
expanded .Health for you and yours
I recommend 3 holes. One towards the rear, middle, and lastly in the front. This gives the best opportunity for foam to reach all areas. Please subscribe!
I spent years on the decks of USN destroyers, and I would have taken a marlinspike to the part b can after about 10 seconds.
I have a 16ft boat how much foam would I need for that
If you spike through the inner cap with a screwdriver then just lever it off, the threads will not be damaged at all.
That was the obvious thing to do so it doesn't give you much confidence in the rest of the video
Where do you purchase your marine foam from
Quick one foaming a bow section (commercial boat building) I wasn't paying attention to mixture it came shooting out that hole it was whistling like a train and I'm rushing to scrape away and at same time hide excess,it was funny as hell no one saw it no cameras then so I got away with it and if that boat ever sinks it won't be by the bow!
The msds sheet should have all the specs for any product used including expansion factors and quantities as well as pupose use and other pertinent data that should be read prior to use of any such product. Msds sheets can be obtained at place of purchase. Msds is .anufacturers specifications and data sheet.
Ok what I did is take painters tape and mask off the holes it makes clean up a breeze
For those who don't know and don't want to damage the threads for your cap, just stick a flat head screw driver we through the inner cap seal. And then press down gently and pri off the cap. You can still cover your tin if you don't use it all.
Sir where you bought poli yourithene from ?
Thank you. Can you tell me where did you buy the part A and B?
Nice job, car ramrod!
To slow down the reaction (foaming) put the 2 pac liquids in the refrigerator and lower it to "a cold day" temperature - 15 Deg C.
Es contraproducente , la expansión necesita el calor generado por el cambio de estado , si alteramos la temperatura y alarga el tiempo necesario que necesita la expansión , va presentar deformación ,alterando su estructura del núcleo , no va ser homogéneo , para sistemas de frio no serviría , quizas como relleno , pero eso implica que tengamos que usar mas material , me di cuenta de eso cuando trabajaba en ambientes fríos
The A/B foam gets kinda pricey... you can add bits of styrofoam to the mix. It is a closed cell foam and is actually lighter then the marine expanding foam. It works great, fills the voids and saves you tons of $$$. Have not tried it in a transom though...
I don’t believe styrofoam is approved for marine use (coast guard?). Gasoline will melt it and render it useless.
Styrofoam can soak up water.
Thank you for this very interesting and informative tutorial.
I was wondering if you retained the plywood discs and refitted and plugged them using epoxy, or if that wasn't necessary.
For the open holes one option is you can cut out the foam approximately the thickness of the floor then just fill the holes with Bondo or auto body filler, let harden, sand flush and smooth then paint.
Bondo has no place on a boat repair
@@daveschilt307 It wouldn't be my choice (even on my car!).
@@daveschilt307 why?
@@daveschilt307 If you're working on small repair spots and on a tight budget bondo fiberglass will get the job done
Good video. Thanks.
How much time do you give it to expand before you pour the next one?
Alex, no problem. I’m building a floor here in a month on the Glastron series. Subscribe and take a look there as I will detail it even further. Thanks!!!
A hole one end and another diagonally opposite and block the poured on as soon as the goo goes in it will spread right across with little void.
Foam is expensive, i collected mayby 250+ 2 liter water bottles. Took the labels off rinsed fresh water and dried them then put the caps back on and shaved them under the sole, then fomed them all in. Save lots money, used maybe 1 gallon of foam on 16ft hull.
That is some impressive cheapness you've got there!
@@fredio54 like that
that would prolly work really well actually. much more resistant to moisture as well
When do you know when to stop pouring?
Interesting Video, but honestly, i would never ever use foam again in a boat. I just removed the old foam from my boat and it was soaked with water….a real pain. The water was most probably coming in from the top over the years or even condensation. There was no way to see that water in the bilge as it was captured within the foam. Now i will do a sort of ladder with stringers which i will cut from foam and than laminate over with fibreglass and epoxy. The different compartments will have small holes at the bottom of them so the water (if any) can travel freely to the bilge….like that water can besten, an even more important the bilgepump can do its job !
With the regard to the your deck…..i would also have glassed the deck with fibreglass and epoxy to seal it for ever !
Great point! I coated the deck in later videos. I have a video series now that is underway and no foam is used. I don’t drill holes between the various bulk heads, rather they are sealed from each other. Please subscribe!
You could've put wax paper down around the hole with painters tape and then the overflow wouldn't have adhered to the wood decking.
How do you know how much to mix?
Does this protect the bottom of the ply or did you seal it with resin before screwing it down on the stringers?
I don’t know boat application but if you use it on a house you can spread studs to 24” on center. Pretty strong stuff. Close cell is completely waterproof. The only issue is that if the foam left any voids there will still be raw wood.
@@stephenc2296 I did my glastron cxv16 much smaller but i applied 2 coats of polyester resin to the sanded cut wood allowing each to harden for an hour between coats then assembled and all screws and holes touched up with polyester resin during assembly . Don’t leave any wood bare and coat before assembly or you could do like many manufacturers and just use bare wood many do lolo = rotten stringers and floor 10-15 years = new boat sale lolo.Ps I work in industrial electronics and mechanical i can believe some of the boat manufacturers using cheap staples on back of Seats and cheap metal staples = rust and on wiring fire waiting to happen . I use stainless staples on seat bottoms pads and run all wiring in wire loom and heat shrink and solder all connectors and water proof and lots of fuses
After you poured and filled rear compartment did you relevel the boat or lowered it down to create foam to run to bow?
I poured in three spots (on each side) to avoid needing to change the boats position.
It would be nice to know the volume of the space being filled
How much transom pour you used
The boat needs to be lifted at one end to assist in the pour going to the very end, mixing it with just a couple of stirs is sufficient because it will mix further as you pour it through the hole. It if is already foaming it is far to late and will not travel to the furthest reaches before it as gone completely off consequently leaving air pockets..
@@pivertigineux se debe evitar dejar bolsas de aire , ya que puede presentar filtraciones y se alojaría en esas zonas , por que el agua ingresa molécula por molécula y es difícil observarla, lo mejor es inyectar la zona de un solo vertido , calculando y midiendo el volumen de espacio con relación del peso de la espuma, cuanto más denso la espuma el sellado será más óptimo
@@pivertigineux nope
Can you add A/B foam to an open compartment? Reason I ask is I’d like to add foam to my floor but also see/make sure it’s going where I want, and install floor over top later on.
You could do that but the process to shape the foam afterwards is a mess. It’s common for the foam to not cover 100% of the inner compartments. The foam is meant as a plan B.
Es aplicable, pero tiene que ser mayormente denso y eso se consigue con cálculos , el volumen del espacio a inyectar y el peso del material (foam) y protejerla antes del inyectado con madera contrachapada para uso marino, ya que la espuma no debe estar expuesta por lo delicado que es.
2 zip ties on any type of rod chucked up in a drill makes a cheap and disposable mixing device.
Great idea!!
does it work on a pond prowler 8 fishing boat a plastic boat
Foam is required by US coast Guard Regulations on new boats. Foam is not waterproof it is meant to Displace water in compartments in the event the boat sinks. It should float at or just partially below the surface. Foam usually becomes waterlogged when people do not keep their bilges dry as much as possible. Also by not properly sealing Hull or floor penetrations.
you have to use closed cell foam or you are waisting your time and your boat will sink
@@bowlweevil4161 All two part foams will soak up water over time. Read the specs. Coast guard only tests for 30 days. Polyethylene is the proper foam. Available in sheets, pool noodles.
I have an 18 foot Cheverton boat how do I work out how much foam mix do I need ?
Coast guard regs have formulas, they are a good read
Is that Kevlar tabbing or just yellow resin?
That’s real deal Kevlar. Watch the whole series.
I have an air Inflatable kayak it's getting older has a lot of little holes. Curious if I were to pour some Marine foam inside instead of air?? I can leave it inside the rubber kayak.. Or cut it out and have a all foam kayak us the rubber like a mold.!i
The rubber foam isn’t rigid enough to work as a mold. Once you started the pour the kayak would take on an odd shape and certain voids would be visible.
tip tap a screwdriver into the seal on part b. pierce it and pop it off, can still use the original cap , what you did with the channel locks was kinda dumb.
The softness is that you didn’t fully mix the product. To reduce cleanup... take a damp sponge to the parameter of the holes which will reduce the bonding and simplify cleanup. I use foam with a 2 second cream time so chance of spillage is greater.
Is there any chance of it swelling the floor or hull?
There might be if you put your foot on a hole while it’s undergoing the chemical reaction. Thanks! Please subscribe.
There is a Very good chance of swelling parts of the boat that are unintended. Foam will expand in all directions. Make sure everything well braced.
I am curious if anyone has experience pouring the two part, foam in the hull unmixed? Letting it mingle under the deck??? I know lazy, but i hate rushing and making a mess! LOL. PS. you seem to have a great extra hand there, thinks ahead for you with mixer etc. Hard to find...
Letting them mix underneath is not advised. The foam only activates once the two parts are stirred. If you worried, pour the mix when it is cooler outside. The hotter it is outside the less time you have to pour it.
if you use a mixer tube then it would potentially work but the key is to get the ratios at exactly 50/50 the big guys buy this stuff in 45 gal drums but they use metered pumps through a mixer tube at the tip to dispense it Regardless it must be mixed
Thanks
raise the bow a couple of feet so the liquid will run to the stern and expand foreward to and not have voids in expanded foam
I’ve heard this same advice before. I can see how it would be beneficial. Please subscribe!
One question does hardener or activator or any of it contain isocyanate ?
nick king.. Yes it`s contain a lot of isocyanate and if you not mix this right, it`s not blended right, then the core of foam not get hardened, the result of this is leaking isocyanate for a long long time
@@dragstardragstar2016 i got poisoned from 2 cans of g-t stu-f Comsumer grade expandable canned foam insulation . I was applying using it using the plastic tube that screws to the nozzle while wearing a new carbon filtered N95 half mask and goggles nitrile gloves outside injected it in to 6 1/2 holes in my new boat floor stand above the boat sides with a light wind at my back . At no time did my respirator covered face dip below the side of my 16 foot glastron boat and work time was 4-5 min with wind at my back . I should have taken them to court the canned foam only said contains MDI =methyl di isocyanate but disguised . Can you imagine some mom or dad applying that poison to a child’s bed room or anywhere in the house criminal .Big box building stores carry 1000 of cans of this poison . Also I worked in auto body as a kid to college it just came in use in auto refinishing as I graduated in electronics, many of my friend in auto body had to quit a few years later because of isocyanate poisoning
Also for the record isocyanate has no chemical smell and even sanding clearcoat or old auto paint releases isocyanate. Also using construction glues windshield sealer and panel bonkers contain isocyanate not all but most . I recently replaced rockers on a f150 welded rockers and most of cab corners but did not want to pull box so I used epoxy panel bond on the back of the cab and screws till it hardened but most panel bond is not epoxy but is polyurethane and hardener is isocyanate. No wonder people get sick when is used to for home insulation
You don't measure your cavity and mix to fill just that area? I have watched several others and that is what they say to do so you don't over fill and crack something.
They measure it to save money. The expanding foam has an area to escape, through multiple holes that are drilled in the floor.
You never close it in no matter what expanding foam you use. It won't crack if it has somewhere to go. I had a boss on a demo cut a grove in a foundation wall and put expanding foam in it and nailed a board overtop. Split a 9 inch thick cement foundation wall into pieces. Never ever close in expanding foam.
Hi. I saw that you used 2 lb. density foam. I understand that there are multiple densities available. Any idea what the benefits are between low density ( 2 lb. like you used) and high density foam ( up to 16 lb. density)? I figure the low density equals lower total weight added to the boat. Any other advantages?
Its cost. 4lb foam expands half as much as 2lb foam and a gallon of each costs the same.
I seen people repairing boat transoms with the 16lb foam, dig out old rotted wood and pour 16lb foam in and I guess it's super strong..
@@SJV82 afirmativo , es más ventajoso ya que evita que se filtre el agua y se alojé en la zona de la espuma y ocasione pudrición, ya que el agua contiene micro organismos marinos y eso conlleva a descomponerse
Has any one tried air/foam-crete for this job? It would never absorb water, is very strong and light...and way cheaper.
😂genius opening the turn on lid to get it we’re it won’t close anymore 😅
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How much total area and how much material did you have to use
Hey! Check the US Composites website as the official amount you need for coverage varies. Please subscribe!
just curious why that deck has no lamination on the bottom side at all? Or does it? It looked like it had none when looking at the holes. I always recommend against wood on a boat, however if fully sealed with glass, it will not ever rot. if you did not lay any glass on bottom or at the very least coat it with a layer of epoxy or poly resin, that floor will rot 100% in a few years. I hope not, but in my experience, it will rot. It sucks that wood rots like it does but it is just not made to get wet. Especially not that wood, that looks to be redwood of some sort, not marine grade ply, but I could be wrong with that as well. You took so much attention to detail with foam! This comment is not meant to bash you or your work, just generally curious/figured id give my professional opinion.
Thanks for your comments! I did coat the bottom of the aquatek before installing it. There shouldn’t be any bare wood exposed. I’ve been hammering that floor since this project completed. Works great still. Very solid!
Nice, try adding 1% of FLG graphene powder to both parts, mix very well first, your foam will be many times stronger, and fire retardant .
Do you have a link to where you buy that?
Was that "bird" in the background a doorbell @00:07 ? 😂
As a boat builder we rarely ever put the foam back in our rebuilds. It traps moisture and that is the reason the deck rotted in the first place. We also have gotten away from using plywood for decks and sterns. We are using koosa. A carbon board that will not rot ever and is totally none absorbent. We only use foam to install fuel tanks or around insulated boxes. Plywood sucks for decks.
...COOSA (not koosa)...
shouldn't use foam there'd either, it will trap water and corrode the tank. Ask me how I know.
how much space does one of those mixtures youre making fill?
How long is your boat?
@@michaelromer2016 17 ft
can it be used on a aluminum boat???
DONT. it will trap water and cause corrosion.!!!!!!!1. use Polyethylene foam, good drainage
@05:09... yeah, I would have needed that advice earlier.... :-D
Would sprayfoam do the same job?
Absolutely not spray foam is open cell foam and should not be used on a boat. Great question please hit that subscribe button.
@@michaelromer2016 the foam I install is closed cell
Mathieu Larocque you are good then thanks
@@michaelromer2016 It depends on which foam you use. That is a silly answer. Both are available.
Could you use it to fill the voids in a cheaper cooler ❓❓
Yep, sure could. Not sure why Mr 4 for A is complaining so violently.
@m4keyourself And yet you're wrong, I have. What are you going on about?
@m4keyourself It wouldn't take more than a sample set to fill the paper thin linings of a cheap cooler. On the flip side, if you cared that much you'd likely be better off buying a good cooler. However the question remains posed and open to a valid answer, which "wtf" is not.
I am on day 3 of removing waterlogged foam from the bottom of my boat. I am at over 500 lbs already. This made me cringe. I understand the pros and cons to flotation foam. Still made me cringe to watch it go in.
Sean, I went back and forth for a while with the foam. It's a tough one, but even Amazon sells a knock off, closed cell foam for cheap, and it's too well priced to not install. Please hit that subscribe button! Thanks again.
Agree, pouring foam is garbage, don’t use it. I spent a lot of my life repairing boats, wet foam is a nightmare.
Stir for 5 seconds, reverse for 5 seconds and reverse once more, then pour.
Where do you get this ??
US Composites in Florida. Please subscribe!
Is it closed cell foam.
Two part foams may say they are closed cell but they will break down with exposure to water and soak up water. Go to US Composites and read the data sheet. Especially when exposed to freeze thaw. Does not need to be submerged, just exposure. Two part foam needs to be COMPLETELY encapsulated. Pink foam boards will degrade pretty much instantly when exposed to fuel. Polyethylene foam will not soak up water and is chemically resistant. With the following at 14:30 and 21:30. ruclips.net/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/видео.html
Poxa vou fazer assim na minha cano de fibra
Makes me want to go get a caramel sunday.
The stuff is toxic as hell full of isocyanate,the isocyanate gas is heavier than air and filling the hull and you don’t smell it .I got poisoned doing same thing on my 16 foot glastron using 2 cans of expandable foam outside in light wind and wearing a n95 . First symptoms are runny stuffy nose eyes then hot flashes then can’t breath followed by huge mucus in lungs and drowning in you own fluids . Now everyone has a life time limit and it varies once your life time limit is reached even sanding clear coat 20 years old can trigger the same . Several friends had to quit auto body when isocyanate was used as a paint hardener
Cool, any link where to buy this foam ?
If I did this the double bottom would not be down already. void city underneath.
Show us the boat when done!
I have watched the whole video and it would just use less then requested and wait until you find the right material so that nothing is wasted because it too expensive to waste it
I think I ended up wasting about 4 feet by 2 feet worth of foam. It was close. Thanks. Please subscribe!
Trippin over dollars to save dimes, those paper towels prolly cost more then the plastic mixing cup.....
But really great video good job
.....AND WHY can't you just use closed sell spray foam again...? I was absent for that class.
Because it is not waterproof! They break down, all two parts will soak up water. Watch the following at 14:30 and 21:30, ruclips.net/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/видео.html. Class dismissed!!
After filling a hole place a heavy block over hole so instead of wasting foam when it comes out it will spread inside more
Gary this is not advised and will cause permanent and future damage to your stringers/hull. Foam will expand your hull/stringers to the point where they will break. I sheared a hull in half one time because of what you recommended. Don’t ever do that with commercial grade foam.
Having spent 40 years in the boat trade i have lost count of the jobs where i have had to dig soggy waterlogged foam out of tanks & double bottoms. None of it is waterproof, its utter shite.
ditto and 100% agreed .. and with the very bad mixing with a stick for 15 sec of this guy the chance of that PU being a nice closed celled structure and close to zero. A hand mix was better back in the days of R11 but in these days of R414B or now even less, it's near on impossible to hand mix.
I'll be epoxying XPS into my hull at some point. That stuff never waterlogs no matter how many years it spends in the ocean bobbing around killing marine life.
My friend bought a 16ft foam filled boat, just as you described it was a nightmare to clean out the wet sponge. How many foam hulls actually prove their worth?
Exactly I only do my own cars and boats but did work in a gm dealership for my entire teens and early twenties in auto body /and assisting mechanics with engine and transmission rebuilds and installs full time while attending school and college.Working there was a great education in its self I got a degree in swearing lolol to compliment my early years at a private school in England before moving to Canada lololo
@@merlin1346 I restore old car 15 years average age to personally drive here in Canada many have urethane foam in unibody it gives the doors pillars a nice beefy sound when you close the doors but it hold water and salt lolol. I oil undercoat all my personal but hard to get oil in to rockets foam filled lolo
Wax the floorboards to prevent the foam sticking.
Foam by its very nature is mainly air pockets and unless the area you are putting it in is totally water tight it will not act as a buoyancy aid. Those small air pockets can quickly be replace by water leaving a totally soggy mess weighing down your boat. The only way foam can act as a buoyancy aid is in small water tight compartments at the bow or sides of the boat.
I believe this type of foam is closed-cell, not open-cell, so it wouldn't absorb water. I don't think anyone would use open cell foam in this type of application.
@@hootowl6354 All two part foams will absorb water over time. read data sheets. :Polyethylene will not. Think pool noodles. A good boat manufacture will not use two part foam.
This is closed cell foam. Not a sponge. Closed cell foam by its very nature does not absorb water.
@@ricker76er Read the data sheets from the manufacture. Prolonged exposure to moisture. and the foam will fail. Does not have to be submerged .Just do a search on RUclips on replacing foam. Why are there so many videos about folks replacing wet foam if its "closed cell".?? The foam starts out closed cell but breaks down. Especially with freeze thaw. The foam holds water causes corrosion and defeats the purpose of it. Just trying to educate people.
@@bryanturner683 use two heavy duty trash bags to pour the foam into under the deck. Had this in my aluminum Jon boat that I recently removed to add some deck boxes.
It allows the foam to expand but not stick to the aluminum.
This was a manufacturer install, the boat is 2012 model and the foam and plastic bags were in great shape with zero degradation.
By heavy duty bags I mean truly heavy duty like the big lawn bags.
Use a standard screwdriver in poke a Hall in the middle of it and pry it it’ll save the edge
"tempted to put your put on the hole" what does that even mean?
Should have covered one hole which would have forced better coverage
I talked about this in other peoples’ comments. They use foam like this to lift peoples’ concrete drive ways up to level or their walkways. You cover it will your foot, good luck! I heard my stringers start cracking once when I made the mistake you mentioned.
I have a dog named Jellyfish Jones.😪👍
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pUT A BRICK ON THE HOLE
So foam glory holes.
I get why you like the idea of flotation but I've dug this stuff out when it's wet and seen the damage it does and there's no way this would ever go under my floor.
Continue to watch the series to see how the foam is sealed below the floor
Sweet. You just guaranteed that all the wood in that boat is going to rot. One of the first things I've checked with every boat I've ever bought is if it has had foam poured. If it has, that'd it, I'm done. I've seen everything I need to see at that point, and I sure ain't going to buy it.
When can I count on this rot to happen? I’ll need to schedule rebuilding it again around that time.
@@michaelromer2016 I just started a floor restoration on a 86 stratos and I found out they poured foam and it's a wet nightmare. And I was thinking...wouldn't pouring this foam in there clog the channel for water to drain to the back of the boat to the bilge or drain plug?
I do agree that the foam is a bit risky the problem with these older boats is most of them were built like that from the factory the foam actually does serve a couple purposes though and unless if you are going to add a ton of new stringers and wood in that hull to help strengthen it you actually kind of need it because the foam actually gives the hull a lot more structural integrity and I'm pretty sure it is also supposed to help the boat from sinking all the way down to the bottom of the lake in case if you were taking on water
Every bass boat that I have taken apart that had foam, the foam was one giant water logged sponge. That stuff is only good is you can seal it so water never comes in contact with it.
@@michaelromer2016 Depends on how often water contacts it. Do you hose out your boat? Is the foam 100% completely sealed? even if the wood doesnt rot, the foam will soak water and cant float.
"Nice" & "Hot" don't belong in the same sentence! 😉
I agree in this context. Thanks and please subscribe!
I'm subscribed 😉
@@BBare. thanks so much!!!
guaranteeing deck and any cheap below deck plywood will turn into a wet mess of rot in a few years