Replacing A Boat Transom | Grady White Restoration Project!
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- Опубликовано: 13 ноя 2023
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Hey DIY enthusiasts and boat lovers! Welcome back! Today, we're tackling the project of a poured liquid transom as we show you a transom upgrade that's not only doable at home but promises a boatload of benefits. Get ready to bid farewell to rot issues and say hello to a solid bond that lasts a lifetime!
Join us as we demonstrate how you can upgrade your boat's transom with Carbon Core right in your own backyard…we'll show you the ropes! It's not just an upgrade, it's an investment in the longevity of your vessel.
We share the tips on how to prep your boat for the best, rock-solid bond. Follow these steps, and you'll be cruising with confidence in no time.
Discover why these poured transoms are a game-changer. This liquid ceramic solution ensures your transom will never rot, providing long-lasting durability that stands up to the elements.
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Time to turn your garage into a maritime workshop and take your boat to new levels of durability.
Let's get started on this DIY adventure together! ⚓
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#DIYBoatUpgrade #transom #NoRotNoWorries 
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Hey guys!
If you’re tackling a project like this one, enjoy 10% OFF everything you need with products from FGCI!!
Use our code: PFB10
at
fgci.com
Thanks for your support & enjoy!
You reminded me of 1971, Anacostia River in Washington, DC where my stepdads 28ft cabin cruiser was wintered & your
work here reminded me of what we did every spring for 4-5 yrs;; looking for rotten spots, cutting them out, & repairing it
all. Then the scraping for the bottom coat that had to go into the water wet. Scrubbing the nasty oily hull was fun as
well so thanks for the walk down memory lane. I have no boat but I appreciate all your explanations / reasons for all
you did w/ this big job. I'm hoping to build a pontoon this summer but the jury is still out. Thanks for the videos
I repaired the transom in my 1991 Mako 211 with liquid transom seven years ago, and I couldn't be happier with how it came out. I just cut the top of the transom off drilled two big holes where the stringers were, so I could clean out all of the wood, using hydrochloric acid over and over again to remove all of the wood. Then I put patches over the holes and just poured it, reinforcing the stringers at the same time. You can put the outboard in the up position and jump up and down on the foot and the whole boat and trailer will go up and down. There is zero flex in the transom.
Bad ass Ralph! That transom will last forever! 🤙
Ditto, My pour was back in 2008, using Arjay, and it is solid to this day. I have no regrets, I removed the skin and did the pour as you did, and worked like a champ, great job, now enjoy that Boat.
That’s definitely reassuring to hear! Thank you bud! 🤙
I'm glad I saw this video when I did. I am about to start my own boat project and was going to use Carbon Core. Glad to have dodged a bullet! Thanks
Glad the video helped! Go through FGCI, use their arjay 6011 transom pour, use our discount code and save a decent amount off that order and wait til we put out our second transom vid next week using this product! I’m sure you’ll do just fine! 🤙
Really cool project. Enjoyed watching the progress and final result.
Thanks Joseph! We appreciate you watching and commenting. I’m posting another transom video next week if you’re interested! 🤙
I have used Seacast. They are an awesome company and the product works amazing! My transom is ROCK solid.
That’s awesome to hear! Poured transom is really the way to go if youre DIY! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating agreed.
This is the first video I have watched from your channel. Great narrative, very clear and descriptive on what you were doing and honest on what went right and what went wrong.
Thank you so much we really appreciate that! Thank you for watching! 🤙
I came across your channel and found it interesting, since i own a mini cruiser yacht.
You are an honest narrator, clear and concise. Your work is superb!.
I'll bet if i have to, i can do this with good results following your project.
Good luck with future endeavors.
Thank you so much for the kind words Edward! I truly appreciate it. Just trying to get better with every video. I’m finishing up my second transom to date. Should be done tomorrow and video should be up Monday in case you’re interested in watching! This one’s even better! Thank you again! 🤙
Awesome! Great to have dad helping out and joining in the memories. nice Benny Hill moment there whacking the funnel!
I’m lucky to have him helping whenever he can. Lord knows he’s done so much for me! Thanks so much for commenting🤙
I don't think you stated it in the video, but I would recommend using something like a Palm Sander to vibrate across the whole transom to make sure you get a complete fill with no trapped air bubbles. Same thing they do when pouring concrete walls.
That’s a good idea but for this product you don’t need to. It has its own off gassing properties that allow the air bubbles to escape. If I were using SeaCast for example I’d use a mallet or something like you stated to help with the bubbles. 🤙
In the shop they size cut 3 new layers and refresh the front and sides and bottom. After filling the middle put a block of wood same size as the hole. And clamp a concrete vibrator on where the motor goes. Then fill the sides. Remove the wood block and tape it. Put holes in the tape. When it starts to come out of the tape seal it off. Top off the sides. But definitely put 2-3 new layers in all corners. The 3” cut is preferred though. But we used a planer a lot for cleanup in and out where we could.
I did a similar project with a 1989 Mako 211 - I would suggest a few changes 1) add a few layers of fiberglass cloth to the inside of the transom before replacing the back panel. this would add strength to the finished composite pour. 2) refinish the entire transom surface before mounting the engine and hardware - it's a lot easier and simpler to work without the engine in the way.
Thanks for the comment Wayne! I agree. Unfortunately we were pressed for time to finish the exterior of the transom. We had an appointment to mount the motor and all we were able to do was what you saw in the video. I thought I had given us enough time but one delay after another left us with no option. Nothing rushed ever comes out right. Lesson learned! 🤙
I did a few transoms and i put some Peg board panels cut to shape with small spacers between them they will give you a very strong transom also used to use it in the bottom of brine boxes on Prawn trawlers when repairing as they drop stuff and punch holes but with the pegboard and matting and resin no way are they going to brake it again once we did one the mate and i get plenty of work fixing brine boxes and freezer floors.
@@bobmulder4064What material are the pegboard panels made of please
@@bobmulder4064What material are the pegboard panels made of please
@@Phantom-mk4kp I am pretty sure it is Masonite. The resin goes through all the holes making it very strong
I am glad you explained why you choose to do a poor then use cusa board. Yes not in a shop in the baking sun with heat it makes good sense. I think it turned out very nice also. Great job getting that boat back in the water.
Thank you so much for that! Imo the pour is the best for the diy person. It’s hard to get things laminated in time with the heat down here during summer. If things kick off too soon, you’d have to rip stuff out and start again and that could get expensive. 🤙
Thanks for the Straight-Up honest review of vendor.
Godspeed
No prob Glenn! Thanks for watching! 🤙
Excellent video and commentary! I learned something today...I never knew that you could 'pour' a new transom. Also, it seems that one of the more popular boats for new transoms is a Grady White. That's sad...I always liked them but would never buy a used one just for that reason. Looking forward to more videos.
Thank you so much for the kind words! We actually have another poured transom video I’m getting out next week and you guessed it… I’m a Grady lol. If you’re going to buy a Grady, definitely get a survey done. Unfortunately most older ones have this issue. It just is what it is. Even their early 2000 models had some issues. I believe they finally went away from using wood but not 100% sure. I don’t blame you for not wanting to buy a used one. We knew what we were getting ourselves into with this one. And because we’re doing the work ourselves, we figured it was worth it! Thanks again! 🤙
I love the video I have a 24ft Grady needing this done and it was a great video to watch to learn about the process and seeing what way I need to go with my boat
Awesome George! I’m glad this video could help! If you need help just write us an email! We’re happy to help! Good luck! 🤙
There's something else which would really make the boat look sharp - a new rub rail. They come in many styles & materials, and are easy to put on - use a heat gun to soften the base track so that it conforms to the hull contour. Plus when you take the old one off, you get to see how the hull / cap plate seam is doing - and reseal it if needed. I pulled all the screws on mine and resealed the entire seam. The rub rail I used was a 2" wide all rubber by Tessilmare, sold by Go2Marine. Most manufacturers have videos to describe the entire process - the boat looks like new - and you can bang almost anything because the cap material is all rubber.
That’s definitely on our list of things to do! Once we paint/gelcoat the topside and fix all the dings, we’re going to install a new rub rail. I’ll check out that company you mentioned. Just not sure what color or style we should go with. Thanks for the tip!🤙
the all rubber is available in white or black - I did the white ( on a tan hull ) and it looks very sharp. @@perfectfitboating
I’m liking the all white! It’ll make it look a lot more modern! 🤙
Used Sea Cast to replace a transom. Was bullet proof!
Heck yeah! 🤙
Thanks for the heads up on carbon core.
No problem! Just trying to be honest! Thanks for the comment!
Although I have never attempted one of these projects I’ve always been curious as to what is involved.
I’m in the skilled trades business. Planning ahead and thinking out the next step is most critical.
I admire your tenacity and reasoning behind your methods.
Hope you all the success in everything you try.
Wow thank you so much for the kind words. We really appreciate that! We try our best! Thank you for watching and for your kindness! 🤙
Loved the video, I used the same material 2 years ago. It worked really well. I cut the top off the transom and gutted it with a chainsaw. Boat is still going strong.
Awesome John! Love to hear people doing projects like this and having success! Thanks so much for the comment! 🤙
Wow! Excellent video! You really know what you are doing there... hopefully I will find a nice used boat with a good transom....
Thank you Jeff we appreciate the kind words! I’m just learning little by little and actually applying it. You can find them out there it just takes patience. Or, do what we did and build it up yourself. We have an informative video on fiberglass coming out today that you’re not gonna want to miss! Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Great job liked the attention to detail congrats!!!
Thanks so much Steve! We appreciate the support! 🤙
Turned out nice. Great job.
Thanks Todd we appreciate that! 🤙
Wow, what a great video, and Thank you for explaining why you went with the poured product over the coosa board or plywood. I too do all the boat work on my boat by myself, and people dont realize how hard that is, so thank you for the explanation and the time to make and share the video of the hard work.
Thank you so much for the comment! Working on a boat by yourself is very tough especially doing big projects like this! Youre very welcome and glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching and commenting! 🤙
Once again nice job
Thank you brotha! 🤙
Nice work keep up the good work and I love that you’re wife is doing a lot of work on the boat
Thanks Larry! She’s a trooper and definitely not afraid to get her hands dirty! She’s had her fair share of bumps and bruises and itchy fiberglass nights! Without her this project would’ve taken twice as long! 🤙
Wow you make it look so easy, nice work good video 👍
Thank you Jeremy! It definitely isn’t! lol thanks for the comment! 🤙
Wow...this was an amazing and eye-opening video. Kudos for a job well done!
Thank you frank we appreciate that! And thank you for watching! 🤙
Great job!! Very interesting project to watch and helped me on my boat a well....Thanks
Thank you buddy! Glad we can help! Thank you for commenting! 🤙
Cool. Thanks for the video.
Youre welcome and thank you for commenting🤙
Great video. I doubt the first company you used will be around much longer. You gave a fair, unbiased review. Now, let’s see the fish!
Thank you so much! Well, I hope they get their act together. For their employees sake, id hate to see their company go under. 🤙
Great informative video. I enjoyed it. Good job!
Hey there thank you for the comment! We’re glad you liked it! Thank so much! 🤙
👍 " I GROUND everything out" !
👍
Your on point sir very good video really appreciate it
Thank you Orlando we appreciate you watching and for the kind words! Just trying our best! Youre very welcome! 🤙
Super sick!
Thanks man! 🤘
Never seen this done always wondered how it was done awesome video
Thanks Randy! There’s all different types of ways to do it. And they all work. This is just one of them. Imo the best way to diy! 🤙
Nice job looks awesome
Thanks Chris! We appreciate that! Came out better than I expected. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
That's really good to know about that company, I'll look elsewhere for product. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
Youre welcome Donald! And thank you so much for commenting! It’s unfortunate but I have to be honest. Projects like this take time and money that many of us don’t have. And all we want as consumers is good service. I don’t like to put companies on blast but maybe in this little niche, this video will help make a difference. At the very least, it’ll save others from potential headaches. 🤙
@@perfectfitboatingI greatly appreciate that, and to think I paid for there sample box and liked some of the products. The heads up is far better than a headache down the road.
Wow what a job thanks for sharing..
Definitely was! Thank you so much for the comment! 🤙
Nice video - well done
Thanks Jonas we appreciate that! 🤙
I used a similar product I got from Melbourne, Florida. Mine had some chopped fiberglass in addition to the spheres. I repowered my 25' Wellcraft and never had any problems.
Awesome to hear! Nothing like not having to worry about the transom failing. I think that might be SeaCast as they’re based in Florida. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Wow I had no idea how it was done and if I decide to do it I will contact you to do it. Definitely a young man’s game ( I am 76) Good job.
Thank you sir! You can definitely do it! You got this! Just shoot us an email! 🤙
Great job with the project. I used the Carbon Core too. I did a 1987 Bass Cat fishing boat. I cut the top cap off and drilled and chiseled the bad wood out. Dangerously I also used a power chain saw. This works great,,, but very dangerous.
I too had a bit of an issue with the guys at Carbon Core. I called for some advice and comfort in using there product. They were hard to talk to and acted like I was bothering them with my questions?
I ordered 2 5 gallon pales. and only used 1 5 gallon and about 1 gallon of the other. Thanks again for the video!
Hey Scott thanks so much for the comment! I’m glad to hear your project worked out and you came out unscathed!🤣 I don’t think chainsaws were meant to be used on transoms 😂
Ya know that’s the feeling I got when talking to those guys over there. I’m assuming they don’t deal too much with regular diy guys like ourselves and they deal more with boat manufacturers. They made me feel like I was a nuisance. I guess that’s the state of affairs with these companies nowadays! 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for watching Scott! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating thanks for the reply. Take care.
Excelente video, muy buen trabajo
Gracias hermano y gracias por el apoyo! 🤙
Good job mate, and well done for naming and shaming companies who don't do as they advertise 👍
Thanks for the kind words. Believe it or not I don’t like to do that but I feel it’s the only way I can help others from suffering the same fate.
We have another transom video coming out next week and we do it from the inside of the boat this time. In case youre interested! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating Totally understand buddy but unfortunately we have no choice in some cases.
I'll subscribe look forward to the next project, you have a good educational channel mate nice one 👍
@@switchedon6530 appreciate you man! 🙏
I use that company and thank God I didn't have to call them back! My transom is a lot narrower than yours was thank God and I could drill mine and vacuum it from the top. I could never be happy with my outcome. I had to do the same at the end I was a little short. I had to mix up some epoxy myself 😂
I can see how a narrower transom with the whole cap exposed can be done from the top. That’s ideal! Nothing wrong with mixing some material and adding if youre short. How’s it holding up?
Great video great job.
Thank you buddy! 🤙
Fantastic job my brother👍...I reckon you did some excellent work there!...much respect from zimbabwe 🇿🇼
Thank you my friend I appreciate the positive comment! Thank you for watching! 🤙
That's amazing, thanks for the info,
Thanks Mike! We appreciate that! Glad you liked the video and youre very welcome!🤙
Great job
Thanks John! We appreciate that! 🤙
Done a few on Bertrams (completely removing inboards and making them outboards) but did them a little differently. On the skin when remounting, you mentioned you used putty on the cut seam between the skin and the glass on the transom. Was that a epoxy putty you mixed up or a ureathane putty from a can? Secondly, when you used the wood blocks (outside) to help stabilize the skin in place you could have or should have used some interior steel to stop the stresses from pushing the cut skin inward when you apply power to the engine. This location is a possible area to get stress cracks and the seam opening. Thirdly after you poured the liquid you can use a vibrator (like a back massager) all along the transom to help the bubbles or pockets to break up. All in all it is a hell of a project isnt it? Fun to tackle and hope all works out great....Grady White is a very capable boat....Great East Coast boat.
Hey Scott thanks for the comment! For the seam I used thickened resin. The stuff out of the can was for fairing. I didn’t think about that steel that’s a great idea. So far no stress cracks and this transom super solid. This liquid also self gassing so there is no need to hit it with a mallet in order to get the air bubbles out like you would with seacast for example. But that’s a very good tip! It’s a HELL of a project! 🤣 we love our Grady and youre right it’s very capable for what it is! Thanks Scott! 🤙
I have used SeaCast before. Works great.
Awesome stuff! Perfect for the diy person!🤙
If you guys do another. Buy an electric planer. And a concrete vibrator you could clamp on. 2-3 layers on all outside edges and front seal. Cut a 2x4 same size as the fill hole. Fill the bottom. Put block of wood in. Clamp on vibrator. Then fill from tops. Pull block out and tape over real quick. Put a couple holes in big pre made tape patch after you put it on. When it starts to come out the holes seal the patch. And top off the sides. Seal the cuts with 3 layers from small to bigger every time. And use a sticker roller. That’s also where the planer comes in handy again is stepping the outside for the repair layers so it’s flat when your done. Do a 1.5” first. 2.5” second. 4” third and final flat with the original plane. Sand filler paint. Like new.
Thanks so much for your advice! We actually are going to do another transom in about 2 weeks on another Grady White boat! But this time we’re going to do it from the inside instead of cutting the outside skin. The great thing about this product that we will use this next time Arjay and the product that we showed in this video have off gassing properties so it does not allow any air gaps or air pockets when poured. Those planers really do help a lot! I wish I had had one when I was doing this transom!! Thanks so much for your comment!!
@@perfectfitboating yea if you want to pop the cap then yea do it from inside. But with a poor job a cut out is still fine if you leave the 4-5”. Just gotta step it and layer the repair and I’ve seen them get brackets with duels and still go 20 years. They say it’s expanding and degassing but if you ever cut one out you’ll see it still has gaps on the top under the flat areas etc. too easy to just buy a cheap sawzall style vibe and do the block and clamp trick. Another way is put it under a couple sandbags on the bottom near the back. But that’s not great. The block in the transom puts it right where it needs to be where the bubbles end up. On the transom cap. It’s even worth putting a little putty in there to guide the bubbles towards the center hole and the sides of you want to be fancy about it. My dad taught me about glass work. Vacuum vs weight vs water techniques. Offset and stacking layering. Cross glassing. How to stack densities. He worked at Apache and turnberry in the early 80’s to late 90’s and a couple others… I mean if you’re just flipping stuff then yea meh. But if you maybe come across something you want to keep.
@@perfectfitboating with a cut and poor. The most important thing is to build up the edges all around. That gives the poor something to lock into cause the cut ends up weakening the back. And the front isn’t built up that great. So usually poor jobs start cracking low and forward. Which also cracks the cap to the sides. But if you put 4-5 layers 4” up against the back and 6-8 on the front. All around. And can add a couple layers forward of the front wall too. It’ll last. It gives the poor something to hold onto better cause once you cut the back it changes everything. For big weight it’s even worth doing a couple upright supports forward of the front seal and built over the stringers. There’s a 23 seacraft in Naples with originally twin 300’s now 450’s on a Armstrong. Still going after 25 years we redid that one. Full enclosed it. Added 3 uprights to the forward onto stringers. 3 layers to the forward. But an extra 3 6” wide in front of the supports. Planed most of the back out and tied it to the sides on the inside. Then vacuumed it to 1/2” full back with plastic and a ac vacuum and tape. Custom 200 gal way forward. Boat did right at 70 with the 300’s. And that one was a pour job. Family so I know the history still and he says still a tank and does right about 80 now. Takes it 100 miles out often to the drop off.
Man you have some awesome knowledge and experience! We’d love to chat with you if you don’t mind, maybe you can write us an email and we I can throw some ideas at you for our next project! Thanks so much brother! 🤙
Nice work! I used Arjay 6011 pourable transom compound for my project and so far I’m happy with it. I was able to buy it locally so shipping wasn’t an issue and tech support was readily available.
That’s awesome! Shipping for this stuff is killer! I believe Arjay and this stuff is the same but I could be wrong. How long ago did you do it and what size boat and motor do you have?
@@perfectfitboating I bought the stuff about a year and a half ago, did my my pour in December of last year. Boat is a 2000 Sportcraft Sport Cat 23 CC with twin 200 HP Mercury Optimax’s.
@@josephwhitehead1692 nice! That transoms plenty strong! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating for sure. And because I replaced it from the inside rather than the outside, the inside skin is reinforced with 1708 and 1/2 inch Coosa.
@@josephwhitehead1692 I thought about doing it from the inside and In hindsight, that’s the better option. Next transom I do will be done that way.
Great info on company not taking care of there customers. Good to know customer service isn’t any good plus there charts for quantities is incorrect which means there really not reliable thanks again
Thanks William! Just sharing my experience. It’s a shame because their product is very good. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Good job my friend. I had the GW open and my transom was rotted more than yours. I drilled into it to mount a ladder and the wood oozed out in a brown liquid. It was so waterlogged the back of the boat sat so low, water always came in the drain holes. If I kept the boat I was going to install the full transom with SeaCast and an engine bracket. Just a heads up, The gas tanks in those are made with thin aluminum. I took it out and had Aim Alloy in Broward repair it.
Thank you is much brother! Most of these older Grady’s are all rotted. I actually have another video where i patched up the fuel tank (not original) and truck bed coated it. I’ll eventually put a new tank in her. Thanks for the comment man! 🤙
Heard that. Good on ya. I’d do the same thing if customer service isn’t a priority.
Ya know with the state of affairs we’re in (gas, groceries, living expenses) all high, bad customer service is the straw the broke the camels back. Idk about you but we’re tired of it everywhere we go. We go out less and less and we fix a lot of things ourselves like this video for example. Thanks for the comment brother! 🤙
Was looking into doing this, gonna keep an eye out for how this holds up in the future.
Imo it’s the best way to ensure you have a solid bond. Unless you’re highly skilled working with fiberglass and have done transoms before. We’ve been using the boat for 3 months now there isn’t any signs of stress, cracking or anything. I would definitely recommend this method for the diy’er.
I did it seven years ago to my Mako 211 transom. It is as strong as the day after I poured it.
ADELANTE!
i have a bass boat that needs the transom re-done...i was planning on using carbon core but after watching your video i think i will look at seacast instead. thanx for the heads up.
Thanks for the comment! You really can’t go wrong with sea cast! If I ever do another project like this I’ll be using them and I’ll make another video! Good luck! Let us know how it turned out!🤙
I’m going to have to do the same thing on my 18’ center console I hear you about doing it on your own
I wish you good luck! But you can do it. Just take your time and prep the best you can. Cover all the holes so you do get leaks. That’s the worst part. You got this! 🤙
With modern adhesives I would glue down aluminium edging straps to reduce water ingress.
That’s a good idea! In this case the aluminum edging I put in were coated on the inside with sealant just in case! 🤙
I used marine plywood and epoxy on my 19 ft 1986 Aquasport. 2 layers of 1708. Has a Yamaha 115 four stroke on it. If and I mean “if” I ever do this again I’ll pour it
Nothing wrong with plywood if it’s sealed properly imo. Did you have a hard time laying up the glass by yourself ?
Very good job thanks for sharing
The poured material will dry and harden without being exposed to outside air ? You can just close the cap immediately?
Thank you for the comment Dr.! Yes even though it’s sealed, at this point in the process it wasn’t completely sealed. What you don’t see in the video is I opened up the pouring holes on the top to help pour more material. 🤙
Salam dari Indonesia 🇲🇨👍
terima kasih atas komentarnya dan terima kasih telah memperingatkan 🤙 hope I said that right 🤣
Great video! I have a 20’ boat with a Mercruser stern drive. It has transsom rot, we are going to pull the engine and drive and rebuild the transome.
I am still deciding on either cosa board or a poured Sea Cast system. Have you done a IO transom?
Hey Russell thanks for the comment! And great for you for taking on a project like this! Although I haven’t done an I/O before I think the process would be close to the same. Either sea cast or coosa would be a great choice. If you’re confident in getting good laminations then go with coosa! It’s cheaper. Sea cast will guarantee a perfect bond. And that’s why I chose poured over coosa. I just didn’t have the man power, and experience and the weather to do it. Resin kicks awfully quick here in south Florida! 🤣 good luck! Let us know how it turns out. I hope this video was able to help! 🤙
Is or do you ever vibrate the mix during the pour to eliminate voids and bubbles?
Not with this product… it has off gassing properties so you don’t get those voids and air bubbles! 🤙
You need to get a mic. Gave you a thumbs up . Best wishes
Thanks man. We since did get a mic. And we’re doing another transom this week. 🤙
Man you have put a lot of work into that boat.
Yes sir! We’ve put a lot of blood sweat and tears! 🤣
Its a Grady White...gotta take care of good stuff1
That’s right!
The minute I saw "replacing the transom" I already knew you would never want to do it again.
🤣🤣🤣
Excelente trabajo bro! Nadie se imagina lo complicado y la envergadura del proyecto que estas haciendo, genial que lo graves para que otros puedan tomarlo como guía en futuros proyectos. Un abrazo bien grande bro! 🌊
Gracias bro! Este trabajito era bastante complicado y tomó bastante tiempo para estudiar y planificar. Ojalá el video ayude muchas personas! Gracias por el apoyo mi hermano! Un abrazo!
Awsome
Thanks Jim! 🤙
I thought about this when I first saw this video. I have a sailboat that was rear-ended by a unattentive motorist desmet to repair the sailboat was 15,000. Hest three layers of fiberglass I figure six grand I'll have it back in the water. Apparently this stuff won't work on my boat. But you never know I might get a small boat in and give it a try there's a lot of boats for sale The only thing wrong with them the transoms are rotten. It's not that big a deal to fix if you know how to work fiberglass and have some carpentry skills.
So sorry to hear about your sailboat getting hit. Repairs for fiberglass are crazy expensive. Labor is expensive and the material is expensive too. If you can save yourself the money and diy, I’d go that route for sure. Fiberglass has its little tricks and I keep learning how to work with it. But anyone can learn fairly quick! Good luck finding another boat. Don’t be scared to take on a project like that. It’s more time than anything! 🤙
Buen trabajo
Gracias Wilfredo! 🤙
Great job!! Can you tell me how many gallons you used? My boat is a very similar size. Keep up the great content!!
Hey Mike! Thanks for the comment!
So we used 4 5 gallon drums and had to mic an additional 2 gallons I’d say. So 22 gallons! Thank you bud!🤙
I've got a transom project similar to your transom but a smaller boat. So once you put the panel back you used a putty to fill crack then 1 layer of cloth( or more?). Then more putty to even it out, then primer and then gel coat? Is that right? Thanks and enjoyed the video. Oh are you still satisfied using a liquid transom?
Hey mark! That’s correct. I filled the gaps with putty, let it cure then I came back and grinded out 2-3 inches out of each side of the cut on a bevel. Then filled with two layers of 1708 and 1 matt. Then I sanded that down. Then faired it with fairing compound. Primer then marine paint not gel coat. Looking back I should’ve gone with gelcoat.
I’m extremely satisfied at the results of the transom. I won’t ever have to worry about it again. If I do it again, I’m using arjay from FGCI! Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for the comment.
Anyway I always use epoxy based fairing compound. I do like your channel tho. I’m a subscriber now
Thank you so much! We appreciate that! 🤙
Sitting in East-Afica, with God knows how many old hulls - we use multi layered marine plywood, fibreglassed over. I am scared of poor bonding to the sides and bottom of the hull. At times we use rot resitant timber like Teak or Mninga.
Thank you so much for the comment! I thought I replied to you when you first commented. I apologize!
People have been using plywood and fiberglass for years with boats. In our boat there’s still some wood that is perfectly fine. As long as you prep the surfaces and encapsulate the wood completely you should be fine! 🤙
Quick ?. What was the total weight gain going with the 4 stroke, pour transom and the bracket delete?
Hard to tell. This boat had a fiberglass bracket that weighed maybe 250 and it had a 2 stroke evinrude that weighs maybe 450. Carbon core is lighter than wood. Not sure off the top of my head by how much. But the new four stoke weighs 600. We also got rid of the bracket so I think we’re about the same as when we started. Scuppers stay above the water line even with two people standing at the stern. 🤙
Good work guys ! What's was the final cost of the poured transom?
Thank you so much! I want to say that it cost a total of just around 1600 to do it yourself. Paints, resins, fillers brushes rollers etc. If we would’ve ordered another bucket of the stuff you can add another $380 or so to it. I think if you get this job done by someone youre looking at 5-6k 🤙
what has been your experience using eastpoxy as a finish?
I can tell you the paint is very diy friendly. It sprays very well and it rolls and rips very well too. But it’s all in the prep and I’m too impatient sometimes. It also doesn’t help I’m in south Florida and it’s 90° half the time so you have to work fairly quick. If you’re going to use it, follow the instructions to a T and use the additive that helps with shine and hardness! HUGE difference! It’s not an awlgrip two part paint but it’s great for the price too! 🤙
I'm not sure if mentioned in the video how much doing it that way cost but could you please give me an idea as my hearing let's me down occasionally and for planning or costing purposes. Thanks I did enjoy your presentation. Cheers Mick.
Hey mick! Thanks for the comment. The cost for the project was around $1500 for this size of boat. We actually have another transom video coming out next week. We do a smaller Grady white 19 and we take the skin off the INSIDE of the transom this time. We’re going to do a breakdown of cost AND we’re going to have an extended detailed version for sale for anyone that wants to actually do it themselves in case you’re interested! Thanks for watching! 🤙
Thanks for responding. Are you guys in Australia or USA? Just did online search and there seems to be no product available and no distributor. They can send by water from Florida but expensive.
As lot of people are after this now it seems in Australia by the comments and forums. All asking the same question. Where can we get it locally. Same questions you would have had. Looking forward to your response. Cheers Mick
Can't you just work the volume by measuring everything and multiply it out and convert it to gallons/litres? CHEERS MICK
We’re in the states. Fortunately, we have a local dealer just 40 minutes away. Check out arjay 6011. It’s the same product. They’re on Amazon and that’s what we use on the new video I mentioned. Email me if you have anymore questions. I’m happy to help! 🤙
You absolutely could.
For about $35 you can get an infrared thermometer gun and use it to check for gaps when pouring.
This liquid has a self gassing feature so there’s no pockets of air. If not I would’ve hit the transom with a mallet to help. 🤙
Hey cap what year is your boat and was the boat on the water most of the time before you purchased it?
Cap this boat is from 1985! A year younger than I am! 🤣 I think this boat was kept in the water a long time ago. It had barnacles on the bottom. I suspect It was also partially sunk. There was a water line 8” up from the floor in the cabin. That’s why there was so much rot. But I’ve redone almost all of it! 🤙
@perfectfitboating wow that explains it all cap but you are doing great 👍 that was a task that i would not take cap but you did it .
@OutOnTheReef thank you for the kind words cap! We’re trying to get that overnight video out this week! I have to admit, doing an overnight on a boat is A LOT of work. I didn’t expect it to be so much. Over time we will get more and more efficient. And filming on top of that was even harder. We’ll see how it comes out! PROP CLEAR! 🤙
Good work, where are you located? Do you do work in Florida?
We’re in south Florida!
Hi could you type out the board you mentioned, sounded like cuzar board thanks
Coosa board or k-cell board 🤙
Confused, how is the transom tied into the sides of the boat from the interior?
Hi Eric! The transom is already tied to the sides of the boat from the interior from factory. When you do a transom this way, you’re basically hollowing out the cavity where the wood was and pouring into that cavity and all the interior layups are untouched. Hope that helps! 👍
No glass on the outside at all?? Just fill in the cut line with epoxy? Edit* i rewatched i saw where it was grinded and glass was added.
🤙
Not dished out enough and not wide enough over the cut, and need multi layers of roving and glass mat , half the thickness of original thickness and 12 inches wide at least
Doesn't 3M 5200 cure and bond well in your conditions, especially if you were to compress your skin with some wood boards? Liquid transom is heavier than plywood, if my calculations were correct. I have to do this project in some near future on my old alumacraft, but considering getting another hull to work on while i use mine... strangely find working on old boats relaxing 😂
If I remember correctly it’s as light or just a hair lighter than plywood. And I wouldn’t use 5200 for that. 5200 doesn’t flex at all. Fiberglass can flex and 5200 would prob fail. I think the poured transom is a great option! Check out FGCI they have a poured transom liquid and you can use our discount code to get 10% off PFB10
It’s a love hate thing working on old boats for me🤣 now that I’m not pressured to get her on the water, I can take my time with projects and it’s pretty relaxing. So I can totally understand where you’re coming from. Thanks for commenting! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating i am not sold on the flex part. Once your liquid transom cures it is not flexible either. I always wanted to find a model showing how forces get distributed on the hull from the motor...
There’s a reason why manufacturers don’t use 5200 for bonding structural parts. It’s always glassed. 🤷🏻♂️
@perfectfitboating this can be investigated. But i think it is more of a price issue. You can use 4200, which is flexible
@KoShuFW 4200 isn’t flexible at all. We used that for our floor hatches and they all come apart because they don’t flex. I’ve discussed that with the pros at FGCI which we have a video talking about that very subject.
Edit: 4200 will stop adhering when flexed is what I meant to say.
Check out our video of the fiberglass store and we speak about the adhesives vs the sealants. It’s pretty good. 🤙
🤙🏼
I hope you took care of the termites... they are gonna eat the rest of the boat... they are now going to find a new home and your house and garage may be the next place they go...
Sure did. The whole process took me over 3 weeks to do. And so far no termites in the house….yet! 🤷🏻♂️
High-pressure water to clean that
That can help. 🤙
It’s always that stupid joint on the transom, why they don’t glass it from the factory instead of sticking a piece of trim on there idk
Always man! I don’t get it either. We’re doing another transom this week on another Grady. Same story. Same joint. Same rot 🤷🏻♂️
Never! Cut the rear fiberglass out of a boat. You simply uncap the transom at the top exposing the rotted wood inside. Take a forsner drill bit(width of the rotted transom) welded to a steel rod and drill subsequent holes right next to eachother removing the majority of the material. Finally, use a chainsaw to remove the remaining wood inside the transom. Clean it up very well and reinstall new wood(marine grade plywood) and epoxy or liquid transom(i've never used.)
No. You can’t get all the rotted wood out that way. Especially up past where the motor mounts. You could do it the way you’re saying but you’d have plenty of wood left in there. It was almost impossible to take out even with the skin off. She’s holding strong with 50 hours on the new heavier motor so we did something right 🤙
That’s like saying “Never cross the streams”.
Con rodillo. Uffff que bruto daño el bote.
Te gusto tanto el video que tuvistes que comentar dos veces!? 🤣
@@perfectfitboating Vi tal trabajo tan mal hecho. Que no lo soporte y comenté. Un día vienes a Colombia y te enseño como se hace bien.
If the back is this bad, you think the other parts are not the same? The sides and the bottom? Isn't this boat gone beyond the point of repair?
When you say sides and bottom I’m not sure what youre referring to. The floors and stringers?
Stringers were replaced, boat is almost done being restored and we use it often. We took this on as a project and knew what we were getting ourselves into. 🤙
@@perfectfitboating I'm probably wrong. I have no clue how boats are built, aren't the other sides also with wood inside?
I've seen pictures of such rot in catamarans which had this structure all around.
@@AlJay0032 no you’re not wrong. Some boats have a coring material on the sides and Lining the hull. Usually made of balsa. This boat doesn’t have that though. Good question though! 🤙
🥰🥰🥰
Yea some companies just suck.
That’s how it is man. Luckily we’re partnered with FGCI and they’re an amazing company!
I though you shouldn't use Formula 27 below the water line.
I haven’t heard that but this boat isn’t kept in the water and lives its life on the trailer so I don’t think it’ll be an issue. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Well Done
Thanks David! We appreciate that! 🤙
just mix your own pour hahahaha save yourself 10times the money
Hey trust me I’ve thought about it. I’m all about saving where I can. This mix is a ceramic so i wouldn’t even know where to start to copy it. I’ve heard of boatyards mixing their own for smaller transoms before with success… maybe we have to experiment 😆
@@perfectfitboating ceramic, yea indeed, so heres how you do it, you buy either precut or you cut yourself glassfibre strands in to around 1/3 inch pieces little longer shorter is fine it dosnt take much you dont want to thicken the resin with it is a good guideline, this is just for reinforceing so it dosnt crack becuse pure resin is very brittle, then you buy a big bag of chalk powder and this you use to thicken the batch and the more chalk you use the more money you save but if you add to much u cant pour it but it will become a great gelcoat filler or if u add the fibreglass cuttings you get good glassfibre putty and if you want you can add colouring to, when it comes to how much cathalyst you need, you should prob go as low as you possible can (says on the sticker) and if you use epoxy take slow cure epoxy, wich i dont recomend becuse its way to expensive and who cares if water somehow got trapped inside it takes for example 22 years instead of 20 years to start degrade, becuse thats how it works trapped water will get acidic and start to degrade the resin no matter what resin that acidc water will degrade everything and it dose take a really long time, a propper haul out every now and then and let boat dry up, clean it well and get the strongest vax u can find and rub it in well and your boat will last forever no matter poly or epoxy and yea never EVER use screws, drill hole SEAL hole with resin and use bolt/nut and silicone to fill the void, goodluck and sorry for my broken english
Your English is perfectly fine man I appreciate the response! You have me considering some things! 🤙