I've got a question that I havent been able to find online anywhere I have looked. I am considering repowering my 24 foot strendrive aluminium boat with a bracketed outboard. An was wondering how much wood you would have to build up on the transom to accommodate a bracket and outboard. Any advice would be greatly appreciated👍
Another great instructional video! I haven’t got a boat of my own yet, and when I do finally get one, it will have to be a project in order to be feasible. Your videos have certainly increased my confidence in the areas where my skills are deficient to non-existent, and they’ve reinforced the knowledge and skills that I already possess. Thank you very much for being so thorough!
Ok, this settles it. You ARE the most talented boat-guy on the planet! .... I hope one day, before I "assume room temperature", to meet you and say 'thank you', in person... As an old dude, I love learning new stuff, and this is the RUclips channel to learn from!
Hahah Thank you! Lol on the room temperature comment, I've never heard that put that way lol. Maybe one day! Anything is possible :) We definitely try to make the videos as helpful and educational as possible :)
Wish I would have seen this earlier. And add a vote to use Kevlar over fiberglass. And Kevlar more into the design. It is more expensive, but man will it increase strength without adding much weight. Nice video. Learned a bunch. Love your channel.
I still learn a lot hanging around boat shops in Florida. You guys have way more experience than the fresh water guys. Seen a Florida guy only replace a 1 foot section of transom on a bass boat right where the engine sits that blew me away. The workmanship was very good and neat. He also did it from the inside.
It's so important to mix the mekt properly. That includes scraping the sides of the bucket while mixing. The reason why he's getting away with it is that he is mixing and stirring in the mekt every time he uses the roller. If you are working from a bucket, stir the mekt thoroughly. Nothing worse than resin that does not cure.
A comes a dash I made my own several years ago best thing I ever did takes a little bit of thinking to get it right but once you do it’s so nice that you don’t have no more sag or rot
I'm watching this video for the third time! I just love how easy you make this project look. As a fiberglass newbie I appreciate your guidance. I did a transom just like this on my 1968 Chriscraft 23 Commander and I can tell you that it's not as easy as it looks here but armed with your help it came out as good as yours. I used plywood instead of Coosa because I was on a bit of a budget. Also, it's so nice to see a professional using polyester resin and not that damned epoxy. Polyester is what was used in building the boat in the first place and in my opinion that's what should be used in a major repair such as this. Epoxy is great stuff and has it's place but too brittle for boat building. Keep up the good work!
For marking the Coosa you can try gypsym chalk markers, typically used to mark out bare steel. It will mark up white so you can see your line. Just a thought.
Take two couple years ago I made my own dash piece that holds in all my buttons and center counsel gauges and nice turned out great sure nice not to worry about rot used cutting boards you know the plastic like cutting boards worked great
When trying to get all the air out, I use a bondo spreader. Run it across the fiberglass gently and it will push out the air and soak the resin into the glass.
nice work man a tip for next time is to go over all sharp ends corners and so on with that puddy stuff to get a nice radius and thanks to that you will eliminate the airpockets u get from a 90 degree angel :) keep up the grats vids man :D
Nice work. One suggestion instead of trying to hammer the two side pieces out into your thickened epoxy. I like to cut my boards with a light taper like a wedge. You can then slide the center section down and it wedges the two side pieces out into place and everything will be supper tight.
Regarding your instrument cluster. Remove those black faceplates and think about making a curved dash out of fiberglass and blend it it to the deck color or hull color. You could get technical and make little eyelids to shade the glass faces on a sunny day. Oh and don't forget the purple LEDs.
Nice Job! I would have suggested that rather than the screws to pull the transom together (2 layers of coosa plus existing inside fiberglass transom) I believe you would have achieved best contact with Machine screws with washers and nuts to draw everything together tight.
still convinced, welding and fab of aluminum is for me. Just amazed that will hold a big 4-stroke, 4 feet away on a bracket, jumping waves. Never seems strong enough to me.
The methods in the video were atrocious. Fiberglass work done correctly is immensely strong, but the boat repair in the vid will be suspect from day one.
@@Resistculturaldecline don't care. seen bolts and washers pulling thru and gaps between brackets and transoms before. Even new, it all has such leverage and torque on it. I'm amazed. I'm more into 1/2'' alloy plate. Have no opinion on the work done. Would never do, or want to do myself.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing I certainly hear what you're saying. In our hobby some of our hulls are 400lbs bare but most are 550-600lbs. 20'1" hull length and use 24" set back in some applications but most setbacks are 10"-14" with v6 up to 600hp with full kill builds. Some of these hulls were used as marathon racers on the Mississippi River and ran for thousands of miles over 100mph across chop, over the course of decades. But nothing like ocean swells. Lot of whitecaps with the occasional cargo barge wakes to negotiate. We don't get the impact of continuouly clearing big air like fast ocean rigs, our abuse is gazillions of jackhammer shock and material fatigue. We haven't found an aluminum yet to resist the fatigue. We have aluminum or steel in the transom in a fabbed grid pattern but it's not to necessarily give panel strength much as to prevent compression from over zealots wrench turners. We've broken jackplates and engine clamp brackets, broken bolts, even some exhaust housings, seats, etc. but not one single transom has let go since 1988 after leaving wood. 95% of these transoms even after 30 years don't have one single stress crack. Aluminum structure can be made very strong, they just get real heavy before they do. Aluminum also has a lot of fatigue if flexed repeatedly, so long as it thick enough and gusseted enough to not move at all. But the dynamic shock not absorbed in one area, get transferred down the line into one thing or another.
You know, that's something that we really don't see a lot of down here, or well not where we are at least. I think I've only seen a couple of totally aluminum or steel boats come into the marina in almost a decade! lol
First off great video. BTW you can get white or silver sharpies for drawing the outline on darker materials. Secondly safety procedures for handling the fiberglass mat like gloves, glasses, and a mask. Also MEK-P is nicknamed Methyl Ethyl Death in the safety industry since it’s an an organic peroxide - unstable, explosive, and not nice to your body- irritant, fatal if inhaled or ingested….SDS are your friend….keep up the good work on these vids!
Great Video! My son and I just finished rebuilding the transom, on our old project boat. We made a video on our channel for a series were we will be fixing up the boat to brand new, and saving money while doing it.
I think I would cut the top caps off so I could I could put in bend in more and thinner layers of Coosa board without having to cut them. Alternatively more thinner layers with staggered cuts, locations and angles. Perhaps removing the inside glass wall leaving the outer hull intact. Bevel out the stringers for access and fit in a wedge later. I would have formed a fillet inside at bottom, sides and stringer junctions to allow several layers of glass to tie in and out of those adjacent surfaces.
Removing the inside glass leaving the outside intact and being able to access 100% of the inside surface must be the best way. At least that is how I do it. cut out the inside glass and remove the old plywood and sand everything. Remove all traces of edges from the inside of the old glass. Then cut the Coosa board or plywood to a good enough size with some gaps around it. Drill many holes, about every 2" in it to help excess resin and air to move out. Saturate all layers and put in at least 2 layers of mat between the old glass and the new board plus additional mats between the plywood or coosa board and use big clamps. If done right there will be no air or excess resin left. After some curing, sand and clean all surfaces, fill the gaps arround the edges and lay on the mats. I thought that was how everyone did it. Perhaps I am doing it wrong... I am trying to understand why anyone would cut the outside of the hull 😱and leave the inside intact. Also how to get the air out of the corners with parts of the outside still in place 🤔
The trick to that rib roller is to go very patiently slowly with it from the center to edges pushing out the air, painstakingly, because otherwise if you just roll around fast you are only pushing air bubbles around. Great video though. You may want to make less resin to accommodate the time it takes to rib roll slowly.
Just got here. Worked space age goop in Marathon boatyard for years in the 80s. One question. Did that transom fall out when they hit the first wave? What holds the transom to the rest of the boat?
seems like there was no taper /overlap joint to the existing hull where it joins the transom.. what is to stop this butt joint from separating when under stress?there is a formula for the taper , I may be wrong, but logics says otherwise.
Pre saturate each piece of fiberglass prior to installation on your next project. This will ensure each piece has as much resin as it can hold. You might encounter delimitation in the future with dry glass. Good luck!
he should star whit matt first that the wowing. he need to use Q cell on polyester . not epoxy powder. he need to have perfectly wet glass before adding a second layer of glass . to much air on the glass brother .. u did the right steps. good job doing it by ur self . alot of work ..
Question: I rebuilt the transom with C on a wahoo. But did not cut from the back. Seems so much easier than what I did. Is that a solid method? Don't need to pull cap nor deal with stringers
It’s interesting to see the process of fixing fiberglass boats. All I work on up here at the Great Lakes is aluminum boats. That’s all a little different. And not as dusty to work on lol
Is it a necessity to jack up the boat prior to doing transom rebuild? It seems like some people put it on boat stands and others leave it on the trailer? Is their an advantage to either?
I have used a lot of coosa board on repair projects, when cutting the sheet in half as you did, the idea is to make a key hole pattern cut, not just a wavy line. The keyhole will lock the pieces together. I have made many straight cuts through coosa and laid it side by side with no problem. It somewhat depends on where the board is used and under what type of load is on it. The biggest issue I see people make with any core material is failure to wet it and the repair area out thoroughly with unthickened resin with adequate thickened resin for bedding the core. I see Post concerning using Matt and epoxy resin,as long as it is stitch mat(no binder) it works very well , such as in 1708 . 1708 is great stuff, I see you used roving, it is very strong. You can use the roving and 1708 together , just flip the mat side toward the roving and use epoxy resin with no problems.
Awesome! Thank you for the info. You can probably tell, I'm not the best fiberglass guy in town lol I can get the job done, but it's not something that I do everyday, and this is only my 4th transom, so I'm definitely no expert! So, thank you for the tips! They are much appreciated :)
silver sharpie for marking on coosa board!!!! you should really look into laminating polyester resin for this type of work i have found it to make stronger bonds!!!!
This is crazy I've never worked on boat glassing. But have worked with specialty glassing for many years. The process looks right but your laminating job is lacking. The fiber should fully soak the resin. When bonding you should use a more viscous resin so its thicker and hold to gravity so when they are clamped or screwed together the resin can ooze out. Alot like bonding two piece's of wood with wood glue. Any air is a weak spot that will spread. Only a matter of time.
coosa rep suggested [me] to drill 1 inch holes on the smaller piece and epoxy/resin together. that allows the epoxy/resin to evenly spread. imo cutting the top gunnel to slide the transom as one unit w/have been best. nice haircut
I just did my ranger transom with 2 in coosa and routed the edges of it so that I didn’t have to cut coosa to fit it in and was able to get it in keeping it all one piece then glassed and faired it
Both!Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Are you sure that fiberglass isn’t a dry layup with lots of air trapped? It never transluced the way a good wet out of cloth does. Or was it the woven fabric?
dry a a bone , it's the real reason he didn't us plywood, cause he didn't want to run the risk of drybond . Coosa board is holds up better to voids which is why it's better for novices to use.
Coosa boards some really nice stuff. I wish it was a little cheaper though I did a complete Bumble bee bass boat rebuild with coosa and it was almost to expensive.
That looks nice, You know epoxy does not saturate the same way polyester resin does but that's OK. It is just the different chemical combinations, the fiberglass is fully saturated and solid. It will last a long long time. For the console, pull the old boards out and cut a backer with some leftover 1/2" Coosa and build it up with layers of fiberglass matt and polyester resin until you get it flush. While you are at it, fill the other old holes on the console. 1/4" holes get thickened resin fills, larger holes require a thickened resin fill and CSM matt over top to prevent the plug fill from popping out 2 years later. Sand it all smooth and fare everything out and finish (did you pick paint or gelcoat?). That way you have a perfect clean sheet console that is solid and will allow you to do whatever you want. Just adding new starboard panels does nothing to help the main console structure and it will always look patched and be full of holes. You have done it right on this boat so far, don't take a shortcut now. If you like the look of the starboard, just add a thin sheet to the rebuilt console.
FYI, you should Google resin bound fibreglass repairs. The strength of the fibreglass repair comes from the matting itself, not the resin. By adding too much resin it actually makes the process more brittle and it wouldn't be the first boat to be condemned because of resin bound fiberglass...
Awesome video! Super helpful! Any chance on getting a run down/list of supplies needed? Mainly how much 1.5 oz matting needed and how much 24oz woven is needed.. and if I missed any other needed matting! Again great video very attentive and knowledgeable!
4: 50" X 96" pieces of 1.5 Oz Mat 4: 50" X 96" pieces of 24 Oz Fabmat 2: 5 Gallon of GP Hand Lay Up 2: Gallons of Acetone 2: Bottles of MEK 1: Gallon of Gel Coat 1: Quart of Clear Duratec 1: 3/4" X 6" Rib Roller 6: 9" Roller Covers
Ive molded for several producer befor, among them Hydrolift, and theres a few issues i would like to point out so you know for next time, an others might take i to consideration. First, the chopped mat should never be cit with knife or scissors. Well it can, but u have to rip off the clean cut edges. This will make the glass bind better and reduce the risk of delamination aswell as pro ide a smooth er edge to sand down. Second, when applyong woven mats both LT and DBLT to a core material in this case coosa, u have to use chopped mat as a foundation. Woven Mats sometimes hav 150 or 300g chopped mat on the back, but still use chopped mat to the core to avoid delamination. Woven Mats are also really hard to get the air out of and to saturate with polyesther aswell so use a iron roller and roll same direction towards an edge. As i said, no critique, but advice to make ur builds last longer and look better 👍
Thank you for the information! Some people miss the point of the video, which is to help people to fix their own stuff! So instead of complaing about what is shown through portions of the video, you've given helpful information that everyone can benefit from! So thank you!
I would have liked to see a description of LT and DBLT woven AND wtf is chopped matt. I know what a "chopper gun" is but I wouldn't use that on a transom. That's interior mold shit. Also, someone brought up a good point. If woven has binders or any chemical that might repel epoxy resin, we should know that and what the recommended resin should be. I dont want to find out 40 miles offshore, at night in heavy seas. Thanks for the post.
How's the ocean master 23 holding up since the Coosa transom job!? I'm literally doing the exact same thing to my pursuit 2350. Cutting from the outside as well. Throwing a bracket on as well.
At the moment of cutting the transom, do not you worry they will break into 2 parts? , I work in a body shop, I have experience cutting and replacing the panel in most cars. and my concern has always been convertibles. because the structure (unibody) one part is conformed to the other and it is always necessary to secure the frame so that it does not bend with the weight of itself. Do you understand what I mean?
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
I work from the inside leaving the outer glass 6 layers glass than ply forced into the wet glass than 6 layers of glass than a smaller piece of ply short of sides and upper edge pyramid style huge amount of strength no air.
I had taken out the water soaked foam from the back of my boat hull. Do I need to strengthening the back portion hull with marine plywood to replace the support of the previous soaked damaged foam to prevent the hull from giving way or just thickening the hull with new Fibreglass? I don’t intend to put back the foam. I just add on a 1100 gph bilge pump. Because I feel that the damage soaked foam give weight and sinking problem if the are damaged and soaked with water. Please advise? Thanks.
Good call on using Coosa board. My personal opinion is wood has no place in a boat unless it’s furniture or trim, not structural. Pressure or chemically treated wood has low adherence to polyesters or epoxy. Wood does what it supposed to do decompose or keep boat yards busy.
My original thought was to do Acrylic on the dashboard but after thinking @boutit more you should do Starboard as that is. Probably be more of a DIYer choice because of its availability Etc that’s what I’ve been using mostly over the last 20 years btw We have a local distributor that offers free delivery and pretty decent pricing to a commercial business I was in the CustomWoodworking field and I found out my local sign guy got the same deal I did on Starboard and his shop was real close to my marina although if I got it at my shop it was easy for me to breakdown large sheets into more manageable sizes due to having a full Woodworking shop for me to use sometimes I would do my cut list and machine everything at home
On a Wooden hull boat, would glassing the bottom be possible or not possible? Its a 40' Chris Craft 1967. I would like to know what you think of this idea I have of glassing the bottom. Thank you
We don't really do this outside of our own projects, but if you had a shop do this these days, my guess something like this is going to be from $8-15K depending on who is doing it
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I've got a question that I havent been able to find online anywhere I have looked. I am considering repowering my 24 foot strendrive aluminium boat with a bracketed outboard. An was wondering how much wood you would have to build up on the transom to accommodate a bracket and outboard. Any advice would be greatly appreciated👍
Could you possible do a video on transom repair when both sides of transom are cracked and damaged? Also is there any videos on stringer replacement?
@@aussiefluffbutt4627 my dad did his. Transom it was 3”measured through the drain plug hole JT
@@aussiefluffbutt4627 also check out Fresico boater he did a sea ray it might help you JT
@@williamthompson2908 frisco boater did a sea ray complete biottom that should help you if your still looking JT
You are the greatest boat repairer expert!
Another great instructional video! I haven’t got a boat of my own yet, and when I do finally get one, it will have to be a project in order to be feasible. Your videos have certainly increased my confidence in the areas where my skills are deficient to non-existent, and they’ve reinforced the knowledge and skills that I already possess. Thank you very much for being so thorough!
Awesome! Thank you! You will be able to handle any project you get, it's more a matter of how long will it take and how much will it cost :/ lol
Born Again Boating That’s what I was afraid of, lol!
Ok, this settles it. You ARE the most talented boat-guy on the planet! .... I hope one day, before I "assume room temperature", to meet you and say 'thank you', in person... As an old dude, I love learning new stuff, and this is the RUclips channel to learn from!
Hahah Thank you! Lol on the room temperature comment, I've never heard that put that way lol. Maybe one day! Anything is possible :) We definitely try to make the videos as helpful and educational as possible :)
Wish I would have seen this earlier. And add a vote to use Kevlar over fiberglass. And Kevlar more into the design. It is more expensive, but man will it increase strength without adding much weight. Nice video. Learned a bunch. Love your channel.
That’s a big job. It takes a bit of planning to pull it off successfully.
I still learn a lot hanging around boat shops in Florida. You guys have way more experience than the fresh water guys. Seen a Florida guy only replace a 1 foot section of transom on a bass boat right where the engine sits that blew me away. The workmanship was very good and neat. He also did it from the inside.
Need to learn offset scribing. More exact and a time saver.
That's a nice tent to work in.. great video! Cheers!
Informative, educational, professional and admirable! Love the video.
Thanks to the steve letting u use his place
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's so important to mix the mekt properly. That includes scraping the sides of the bucket while mixing. The reason why he's getting away with it is that he is mixing and stirring in the mekt every time he uses the roller. If you are working from a bucket, stir the mekt thoroughly. Nothing worse than resin that does not cure.
You make hard work look easy! Wish I had 1/4 of your skillz.
A comes a dash I made my own several years ago best thing I ever did takes a little bit of thinking to get it right but once you do it’s so nice that you don’t have no more sag or rot
Thanks for all the info. I've been enjoying all your videos. I would like to see acrylic on the dash.
Acrylic Aaron for sure. I did my center console dash in black and it looks great!
I love starboard I have used and 7 years still satisfied
I'm watching this video for the third time! I just love how easy you make this project look. As a fiberglass newbie I appreciate your guidance. I did a transom just like this on my 1968 Chriscraft 23 Commander and I can tell you that it's not as easy as it looks here but armed with your help it came out as good as yours. I used plywood instead of Coosa because I was on a bit of a budget. Also, it's so nice to see a professional using polyester resin and not that damned epoxy. Polyester is what was used in building the boat in the first place and in my opinion that's what should be used in a major repair such as this. Epoxy is great stuff and has it's place but too brittle for boat building. Keep up the good work!
For marking the Coosa you can try gypsym chalk markers, typically used to mark out bare steel. It will mark up white so you can see your line. Just a thought.
Thank you!
Great job I just want to jump in their and start rolling you make it looks so easy 👍🏼
Take two couple years ago I made my own dash piece that holds in all my buttons and center counsel gauges and nice turned out great sure nice not to worry about rot used cutting boards you know the plastic like cutting boards worked great
Definitely do an acrylic dashboard. BTW Boatoutfitters is awesome and they will cut, shape and bend anything for you!
When trying to get all the air out, I use a bondo spreader. Run it across the fiberglass gently and it will push out the air and soak the resin into the glass.
nice work man a tip for next time is to go over all sharp ends corners and so on with that puddy stuff to get a nice radius and thanks to that you will eliminate the airpockets u get from a 90 degree angel :) keep up the grats vids man :D
Thank you!
Almost everyone who are doing this are not using enough resin like this dude.
Man that is a lot of information on fiberglassing. Enjoyed the video! I'm voting acrylic.
a lot of BAD information...
Amazing !! Very talented! Like a work of art. I can’t wait for the next video !!!
Thank you!
Your welcome !
Nice work. One suggestion instead of trying to hammer the two side pieces out into your thickened epoxy. I like to cut my boards with a light taper like a wedge. You can then slide the center section down and it wedges the two side pieces out into place and everything will be supper tight.
It looked like it was purely polyester resin and not epoxy. Thickened un-reinforced polyester seems like such a bad idea.
Regarding your instrument cluster. Remove those black faceplates and think about making a curved dash out of fiberglass and blend it it to the deck color or hull color. You could get technical and make little eyelids to shade the glass faces on a sunny day. Oh and don't forget the purple LEDs.
Nice Job! I would have suggested that rather than the screws to pull the transom together (2 layers of coosa plus existing inside fiberglass transom) I believe you would have achieved best contact with Machine screws with washers and nuts to draw everything together tight.
👍👍 for acrylic!
Great video as always, come on next Tuesday...
still convinced, welding and fab of aluminum is for me. Just amazed that will hold a big 4-stroke, 4 feet away on a bracket, jumping waves. Never seems strong enough to me.
The methods in the video were atrocious. Fiberglass work done correctly is immensely strong, but the boat repair in the vid will be suspect from day one.
@@Resistculturaldecline don't care. seen bolts and washers pulling thru and gaps between brackets and transoms before. Even new, it all has such leverage and torque on it. I'm amazed. I'm more into 1/2'' alloy plate. Have no opinion on the work done. Would never do, or want to do myself.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing I certainly hear what you're saying. In our hobby some of our hulls are 400lbs bare but most are 550-600lbs. 20'1" hull length and use 24" set back in some applications but most setbacks are 10"-14" with v6 up to 600hp with full kill builds.
Some of these hulls were used as marathon racers on the Mississippi River and ran for thousands of miles over 100mph across chop, over the course of decades. But nothing like ocean swells. Lot of whitecaps with the occasional cargo barge wakes to negotiate.
We don't get the impact of continuouly clearing big air like fast ocean rigs, our abuse is gazillions of jackhammer shock and material fatigue. We haven't found an aluminum yet to resist the fatigue. We have aluminum or steel in the transom in a fabbed grid pattern but it's not to necessarily give panel strength much as to prevent compression from over zealots wrench turners.
We've broken jackplates and engine clamp brackets, broken bolts, even some exhaust housings, seats, etc. but not one single transom has let go since 1988 after leaving wood. 95% of these transoms even after 30 years don't have one single stress crack.
Aluminum structure can be made very strong, they just get real heavy before they do. Aluminum also has a lot of fatigue if flexed repeatedly, so long as it thick enough and gusseted enough to not move at all. But the dynamic shock not absorbed in one area, get transferred down the line into one thing or another.
Same here.
You know, that's something that we really don't see a lot of down here, or well not where we are at least. I think I've only seen a couple of totally aluminum or steel boats come into the marina in almost a decade! lol
First off great video. BTW you can get white or silver sharpies for drawing the outline on darker materials. Secondly safety procedures for handling the fiberglass mat like gloves, glasses, and a mask. Also MEK-P is nicknamed Methyl Ethyl Death in the safety industry since it’s an an organic peroxide - unstable, explosive, and not nice to your body- irritant, fatal if inhaled or ingested….SDS are your friend….keep up the good work on these vids!
I was thinking the same 😂😅
Great Video! My son and I just finished rebuilding the transom, on our old project boat. We made a video on our channel for a series were we will be fixing up the boat to brand new, and saving money while doing it.
I think I would cut the top caps off so I could I could put in bend in more and thinner layers of Coosa board without having to cut them. Alternatively more thinner layers with staggered cuts, locations and angles. Perhaps removing the inside glass wall leaving the outer hull intact. Bevel out the stringers for access and fit in a wedge later. I would have formed a fillet inside at bottom, sides and stringer junctions to allow several layers of glass to tie in and out of those adjacent surfaces.
Removing the inside glass leaving the outside intact and being able to access 100% of the inside surface must be the best way. At least that is how I do it. cut out the inside glass and remove the old plywood and sand everything.
Remove all traces of edges from the inside of the old glass. Then cut the Coosa board or plywood to a good enough size with some gaps around it. Drill many holes, about every 2" in it to help excess resin and air to move out. Saturate all layers and put in at least 2 layers of mat between the old glass and the new board plus additional mats between the plywood or coosa board and use big clamps. If done right there will be no air or excess resin left. After some curing, sand and clean all surfaces, fill the gaps arround the edges and lay on the mats. I thought that was how everyone did it. Perhaps I am doing it wrong...
I am trying to understand why anyone would cut the outside of the hull 😱and leave the inside intact. Also how to get the air out of the corners with parts of the outside still in place 🤔
The trick to that rib roller is to go very patiently slowly with it from the center to edges pushing out the air, painstakingly, because otherwise if you just roll around fast you are only pushing air bubbles around. Great video though. You may want to make less resin to accommodate the time it takes to rib roll slowly.
I've done a lot of glass work and this video is one of the best I have ever seen good job
Awesome! Thank you!
You obviously don't know shit about glass work. I'd like to know when it sunk?
You make it look and sound easy.. cheers!
Just got here. Worked space age goop in Marathon boatyard for years in the 80s. One question. Did that transom fall out when they hit the first wave? What holds the transom to the rest of the boat?
I think stingers and Keys "reforcement" inside the transom 🤷♂️🤷♂️
NICE JOB! Great instruction, you guys are true pros
Thank you!
Impressive work! Love these how to's. keep it up.
Thanks a lot!
Thanks Steve!! Awesome video Aaron always heard about Coosa board for transoms on the boat forum I'm on but never seen it installed
Save this for the professionals you might be disappointed great video keep them coming
seems like there was no taper /overlap joint to the existing hull where it joins the transom.. what is to stop this butt joint from separating when under stress?there is a formula for the taper , I may be wrong, but logics says otherwise.
Pre saturate each piece of fiberglass prior to installation on your next project. This will ensure each piece has as much resin as it can hold.
You might encounter delimitation in the future with dry glass.
Good luck!
did you consider some putty of some sort between the coosa and the edges of the boat before the glass?
he should star whit matt first that the wowing. he need to use Q cell on polyester . not epoxy powder. he need to have perfectly wet glass before adding a second layer of glass . to much air on the glass brother .. u did the right steps. good job doing it by ur self . alot of work ..
Question: I rebuilt the transom with C on a wahoo. But did not cut from the back. Seems so much easier than what I did. Is that a solid method? Don't need to pull cap nor deal with stringers
It’s interesting to see the process of fixing fiberglass boats. All I work on up here at the Great Lakes is aluminum boats. That’s all a little different. And not as dusty to work on lol
Is it a necessity to jack up the boat prior to doing transom rebuild? It seems like some people put it on boat stands and others leave it on the trailer? Is their an advantage to either?
I have used a lot of coosa board on repair projects, when cutting the sheet in half as you did, the idea is to make a key hole pattern cut, not just a wavy line. The keyhole will lock the pieces together. I have made many straight cuts through coosa and laid it side by side with no problem. It somewhat depends on where the board is used and under what type of load is on it. The biggest issue I see people make with any core material is failure to wet it and the repair area out thoroughly with unthickened resin with adequate thickened resin for bedding the core. I see Post concerning using Matt and epoxy resin,as long as it is stitch mat(no binder) it works very well , such as in 1708 . 1708 is great stuff, I see you used roving, it is very
strong. You can use the roving and 1708 together , just flip the mat side toward the roving and use epoxy resin with no problems.
Awesome! Thank you for the info. You can probably tell, I'm not the best fiberglass guy in town lol I can get the job done, but it's not something that I do everyday, and this is only my 4th transom, so I'm definitely no expert! So, thank you for the tips! They are much appreciated :)
Acrylic! I've used Boat Outfitters as well and they are great!
silver sharpie for marking on coosa board!!!! you should really look into laminating polyester resin for this type of work i have found it to make stronger bonds!!!!
Amazing, you are a great teacher!
Cardboard is the ultimate money saver that no one appreciates lol. I use that stuff all the time!!!
one last thought: the zig zag, would it have been better off center? to the side?
Nice job on the teaching side👍👊
Brother I have a hidra spot and I would like to get my transom done as you did in this video, when you can do it and how much it?
This is crazy I've never worked on boat glassing. But have worked with specialty glassing for many years. The process looks right but your laminating job is lacking. The fiber should fully soak the resin. When bonding you should use a more viscous resin so its thicker and hold to gravity so when they are clamped or screwed together the resin can ooze out. Alot like bonding two piece's of wood with wood glue. Any air is a weak spot that will spread. Only a matter of time.
My dad always told me that the stingers and the knees in the transom were the ones that really made the most strength. transom
coosa rep suggested [me] to drill 1 inch holes on the smaller piece and epoxy/resin together. that allows the epoxy/resin to evenly spread. imo cutting the top gunnel to slide the transom as one unit w/have been best. nice haircut
Soap stone my friend soap stone!!! Marks perfect on black.
I just did my ranger transom with 2 in coosa and routed the edges of it so that I didn’t have to cut coosa to fit it in and was able to get it in keeping it all one piece then glassed and faired it
Boss.sampan ni panjang brapa kaki??lebar dan tingi?
I wish you posted more videos throughout the week
If I could afford an editor that might be possible :) lol
Really excellent tutorial! Thanks! 😊
How did you learn how to work on boats and such? Did you go to school for it or just started working at a shop? Would love to know!
Both!Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
I don't know much about fiberglass, but air pockets this big? Good luck with that transom lasting...
Are you sure that fiberglass isn’t a dry layup with lots of air trapped? It never transluced the way a good wet out of cloth does. Or was it the woven fabric?
dry a a bone , it's the real reason he didn't us plywood, cause he didn't want to run the risk of drybond . Coosa board is holds up better to voids which is why it's better for novices to use.
Coosa boards some really nice stuff. I wish it was a little cheaper though I did a complete Bumble bee bass boat rebuild with coosa and it was almost to expensive.
Great video makes me want to give a try the organisation appears to be the key as in most tasks.😉👍
Thank you! Yes, it's definitely in the organization for sure!
do you have a video that shows how you cut the back off? and cleaned? ty
ruclips.net/p/PLDFOb030syP54VqPsBAmYtBj32Sxyaxfk
That looks nice, You know epoxy does not saturate the same way polyester resin does but that's OK. It is just the different chemical combinations, the fiberglass is fully saturated and solid. It will last a long long time.
For the console, pull the old boards out and cut a backer with some leftover 1/2" Coosa and build it up with layers of fiberglass matt and polyester resin until you get it flush. While you are at it, fill the other old holes on the console. 1/4" holes get thickened resin fills, larger holes require a thickened resin fill and CSM matt over top to prevent the plug fill from popping out 2 years later. Sand it all smooth and fare everything out and finish (did you pick paint or gelcoat?). That way you have a perfect clean sheet console that is solid and will allow you to do whatever you want. Just adding new starboard panels does nothing to help the main console structure and it will always look patched and be full of holes. You have done it right on this boat so far, don't take a shortcut now. If you like the look of the starboard, just add a thin sheet to the rebuilt console.
Oh man, now you're trying to get me to fix all the stuff on the console! lol
Was there no place in Florida where you could buy non folded fiberglass sheet? Those folds weaken the fiber.
acrylic dash for sure, it would look amazing in black
FYI, you should Google resin bound fibreglass repairs. The strength of the fibreglass repair comes from the matting itself, not the resin. By adding too much resin it actually makes the process more brittle and it wouldn't be the first boat to be condemned because of resin bound fiberglass...
I subscribed because of this 4 year old video.. lol don’t stop bro
Thanks so much bro! I won't.
Excellent work!!
Can you do this exactly the same way with marine plywood?
Anything wrong with leaving stainless or brass screws in the coosa to provide extra strength?
Awesome video! Super helpful! Any chance on getting a run down/list of supplies needed?
Mainly how much 1.5 oz matting needed and how much 24oz woven is needed.. and if I missed any other needed matting!
Again great video very attentive and knowledgeable!
4: 50" X 96" pieces of 1.5 Oz Mat
4: 50" X 96" pieces of 24 Oz Fabmat
2: 5 Gallon of GP Hand Lay Up
2: Gallons of Acetone
2: Bottles of MEK
1: Gallon of Gel Coat
1: Quart of Clear Duratec
1: 3/4" X 6" Rib Roller
6: 9" Roller Covers
Born Again Boating the 24oz fabmat is the woven roving,correct?
I use a red sharpie worked great for me
Nice!
Great video and thanks for taking the time. You got us going in the right direction... thanks again...
Glad to help
Ive molded for several producer befor, among them Hydrolift, and theres a few issues i would like to point out so you know for next time, an others might take i to consideration. First, the chopped mat should never be cit with knife or scissors. Well it can, but u have to rip off the clean cut edges. This will make the glass bind better and reduce the risk of delamination aswell as pro ide a smooth er edge to sand down.
Second, when applyong woven mats both LT and DBLT to a core material in this case coosa, u have to use chopped mat as a foundation. Woven Mats sometimes hav 150 or 300g chopped mat on the back, but still use chopped mat to the core to avoid delamination. Woven Mats are also really hard to get the air out of and to saturate with polyesther aswell so use a iron roller and roll same direction towards an edge.
As i said, no critique, but advice to make ur builds last longer and look better 👍
Thank you for the information! Some people miss the point of the video, which is to help people to fix their own stuff! So instead of complaing about what is shown through portions of the video, you've given helpful information that everyone can benefit from! So thank you!
I would have liked to see a description of LT and DBLT woven AND wtf is chopped matt. I know what a "chopper gun" is but I wouldn't use that on a transom. That's interior mold shit. Also, someone brought up a good point. If woven has binders or any chemical that might repel epoxy resin, we should know that and what the recommended resin should be. I dont want to find out 40 miles offshore, at night in heavy seas. Thanks for the post.
How's the ocean master 23 holding up since the Coosa transom job!? I'm literally doing the exact same thing to my pursuit 2350. Cutting from the outside as well. Throwing a bracket on as well.
Great video. Very informative. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
After renewing the transom, do we really need to strengthening the boat hull with wood rib to strengthening the boat safety from cracking?
Do you need to use a new roller everytime? Presumably they get ruined by the set resin?
At the moment of cutting the transom, do not you worry they will break into 2 parts? , I work in a body shop, I have experience cutting and replacing the panel in most cars. and my concern has always been convertibles. because the structure (unibody) one part is conformed to the other and it is always necessary to secure the frame so that it does not bend with the weight of itself. Do you understand what I mean?
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
I work from the inside leaving the outer glass 6 layers glass than ply forced into the wet glass than 6 layers of glass than a smaller piece of ply short of sides and upper edge pyramid style huge amount of strength no air.
How do you do all that before it sets up?
I had taken out the water soaked foam from the back of my boat hull. Do I need to strengthening the back portion hull with marine plywood to replace the support of the previous soaked damaged foam to prevent the hull from giving way or just thickening the hull with new Fibreglass? I don’t intend to put back the foam. I just add on a 1100 gph bilge pump. Because I feel that the damage soaked foam give weight and sinking problem if the are damaged and soaked with water. Please advise? Thanks.
Good call on using Coosa board. My personal opinion is wood has no place in a boat unless it’s furniture or trim, not structural. Pressure or chemically treated wood has low adherence to polyesters or epoxy. Wood does what it supposed to do decompose or keep boat yards busy.
So what ties it into the hull?
Is this mixture of resin and silica a good compound to bond floor to stringers? If not what is the best way to do this??
I'm curious. After watching this series I wonder about the cost of this type of project. We talking $10,000 more or less?
So why do so many transoms need to be replaced ?
My original thought was to do Acrylic on the dashboard but after thinking @boutit more you should do Starboard as that is. Probably be more of a DIYer choice because of its availability Etc that’s what I’ve been using mostly over the last 20 years btw We have a local distributor that offers free delivery and pretty decent pricing to a commercial business I was in the CustomWoodworking field and I found out my local sign guy got the same deal I did on Starboard and his shop was real close to my marina although if I got it at my shop it was easy for me to breakdown large sheets into more manageable sizes due to having a full Woodworking shop for me to use sometimes I would do my cut list and machine everything at home
My vote is for acrylic on dash 👌👌
Legend has it this boat is still floating! ahhahahahahahahahahahaahhaahhaahahahahahahahahhaahahahhahaahha
On a Wooden hull boat, would glassing the bottom be possible or not possible? Its a 40' Chris Craft 1967. I would like to know what you think of this idea I have of glassing the bottom. Thank you
Umm, idk is thats a good idea, this is more of a question for Andy over at Boatworkstoday :)
Born Again Boating I’ll ask him thank you
How much you charge to do a job this size, just as a general range of cost for labour ?
We don't really do this outside of our own projects, but if you had a shop do this these days, my guess something like this is going to be from $8-15K depending on who is doing it
The acrylic would look very nice! Would the plan be one piece or 3?
Well, I don't really have a plan at this point lol
Eric Slaughter hopefully one and heated and bent