[EP11] Fibreglass Boat Transom Replacement From The Outside
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Nearing the time of sale of my beloved Haines I discovered the transom had water ingress and rot especially around the engine bolt holes and rear well drain holes due to a poor design. I replace the transom from the rear using marine plywood and variety of methods and tricks I researched and thought up myself.
This series features the semi restoration of a very cheap Haines Signature 530F in need of a lot of work. It aims to educate people on how to perform good quality, but very budget orientated repairs and modifications to all things mechanical especially boat building.
I did my transom in 2005 and this brought back many memories. I separated the deck and went from the inside but so many of the techniques we both used were the same. I too was obsessed with no cavities and made it super strong and millimetre perfect. People at the time said it was "over-engineered" but 16 years later it's still solid as a rock and in rough weather I like knowing my boat is stronger than it came out of the factory. Outstanding video and thank you for sharing your project with us. Iain
It will last forever, thanks to your effort.
I'm debating on if I want to do my transom and floor but so worried about my motor falling off lol cause I am not a fiberglass guy I can get away with patches but a whole transom yikes been watching videos for over a month
Awesome video definitely helps when doing this for the first time, how long did the process take
As someone who does this for a living (at least 3 transoms per month anyways), you did a GREAT job. There is a few things I would have done differently, but, you did a great job on this. I think this is one of the best videos I have seen on a DIY transom replacement on RUclips. Biggest thing I would have done is not to ever put any plywood on the boat again, but since you did, you probably would have been better off pre saturating each piece with resin (especially on the end grains) and glassed it with that 1708 Biax before putting it to the boat. I think this transom will DEFF hold up and you did great!
I appreciate your comment, and that is some good advice ^^
Just wondering what you would use instead of marine ply?
@@cameronpratley4034 coosa board or any other HDPF board that is reinforced with fiberglass. If you go Coosa, you must go with Bluewater 26 not the 20.
except those two huge voids on the first layer WTF? his second layer was full plywood starboard to port, but his first is just the 2.5 feet in the middle and what was up with that non symmetrical shape, I just gotta know the thinking, like why leave that piece if the matching piece was cut off, or vice versa why put it there if the other side didnt have one? we just like odd polygons? Again for a "solid" transom why have two huge voids in the first layer, 4 if you count the bilges which now dump on untreated plywood?!? Be honest bro it was a weekend warrior hack at best, the sorta thing you do if you wanna buy cheap and sell high to someone who will never inspect the inner side of that work. btw two easy to get opyions besides plywood that will last longer than the plywood are poly carbonate dimensional lumber and if you want a see through hull or transom, acrylic sheets. Make a sandwich of 2.5 oz mat, biax, plexiglass,biax,plexiglass, biax (45 degrees rotated) plexiglass, biax,2.5 oz mat - with 1/8 inch p[lexi that laminate core is approaching 3/4" as well as bullet proof to alot of pistols :) wrap the area with 6 mil polyethylene and put a vacuum pump on it, to suck out bubbles and press all the fiber homogenously. make sure you use clear slow set epoxy, once hard... the boat i mean, wet sand with 2500 grit, buff with 600 rpm and polishing compound then hand wax, you can actually make an entire boat like glass.
@MrDarchangelomni seems like you love the sound of your own voice dude.quit bitchin he done a brilliant job
Man awesome job , I’m about to do my boats transom and I’ll be watching this video a few times through it. Cheers dude
Yes, a speeded up video, without awful ‘music’ blasting out, that I have to mute and then miss dialogue.
Thankyou 🎉👏👏👏.
Big fat no no, always from the inside. Why, you just made the transom weak it not only is bonded by a 50mm bond. Source me been a composite technician for 25yrs. Putting ply back in is going backwards there is newer products that are way better these days
I used West system Epoxy for all gluing and filling. Stronger, more fresible and seals water. Nice clean job!
heyy you have an 205 Gti :) i had two of theese.... Flying coffin
It'll be the next project most likely.
Dude, I repair broken wind turbine blades in the US, That is one of the best repairs I have ever seen! Thanks for sharing!!
NOOOOOO. put composite panel into it! (Great video though).
Then cut it all up when you need to rebuild the floor as well wood floats composite out in the middle of a lake will sink...I'll stay with wood that is one of the reasons they use wood... And in the floor wood and spray foam but they get wet as well I have sliced a couple boats open to do major repair work...it is good money but dusty and working with fiberglass can get itchy at times...
3-4x the material cost. $$
@@robertp7209 3-4 times of bugger all..
I know I am a Yank. lol But I have to say very impressive. I have done many many transom repairs. Your is a job above. Thanks
Great video, I have the same boat and your video will help as I have not tackled fiberglass before. Great tips through out video, thank you. Nice to know the transom has not got a full double plywood sheet construction.
Nice work but what a poor design it should be a 2 inch thick sheet of plywood
Even considering how cheap plywood is, they only designed the middle section thicker, damn shame. Could have come across the entire width the same, I’d say 1.5 inch minimum, glass between layers of wood. I would use either 3 x 1/2”, or 2 x 3/4 “. Which means the job gets done from the inside.
Better than the last person I watched try this
Never replace a transom from the outside period !!!
Sometimes you have to bit inside is normal there is to much contamination from the release agent's from the mold and the gel coat breaks down after a while. It is safer to slice the inside ...
It’s easier that’s why it’s done, and accordingly, less hours and lower cost. That’s the only reason.
Thanks for posting; very helpful. Question: at 2:30 in the video, you mention "...some sources say 8x, some say 10x...". Could you mention the sources? If there's somewhere I can read-up on this sort of thing, I'm very interested.
Think I found a google book on fibreglassing and had a read of common repairs
@@cheapthrillsgarage Thanks, I'll do some more digging.
Without even watching the video I already see a BIG mistake brother. The fiberglass hull is like a perfect egg that you NEVER compromise. Especially cutting out the transom 😳. What you’re supposed to do is cut the old wood that supports the transom FROM THE INSIDE. Even if it means cutting/removing the rear top capping along the top sides near stern… then you have working space. After stripping all plywood from inner transom.. down to inner skin then cardboard template, multi layered plywood with epoxy glue and screws through transom from inside out (avoid engine mount bolt area). Can remove screws between layers after glue dries. Now glass in your 3-5” thick transom that has not been compromised. Take it from an ole pirate of Caribbean. I’ve had two friends lost to sea from that type work.
Perhaps you should watch the video and listen as to why it was done this way, and that yes I also explain the best way is from the inside, however this video is on how to do it from the outside.
@@cheapthrillsgarage I worked many years at Marathon boatyard in the Fla. Keys. I was the space age goop guy in the 80s. I will be very surprised if this hull lasts. The only thing holding your transom in is two inches of lapped glass. Good luck mate.
@@citizen1675 same i was thinking 🤦♂️🤦♂️
A zip saw with a chisel blade would be my choice ...but thatz me...great job..my next year's project on my boat .cheers
To fill in the gaps I used an old product called Tiger hair.
Insane level of detail! So impressive!
We did the transom for the big black RIB for the WA Police TRG that are 24ft long have 2 x 250s on the back from memory. They were doing donuts on the Swan River basically (yours and my money at work there!) and dug the bow in and flipped over and someone noticed the transom was cracking badly when they got it salvaged. We basically put 1 inch of ply in the middle with over an Inch of solid glass either side. That thing wasn't going anywhere, and it's been a while since I bought my own glassing supplies I must say ;)
Honestly, To me this seems kind of backwards Here's why... Once you cut that outside skin off. You've ruined The factory gel coat That was sprayed in the mold before the hall was laid up, You basically Destroyed the value of the boat You're not certified And Even if you were certified you still ruin the value of the boat. You couldn't sell it! That kind of repair.
Takes away all the strength integrity Of the original layup of the hull The moment you cut through all those layers, It doesn't take any more time to Pull the rub rail Pull the insert and drill the rivets. Pop the top, then Nothing's in your way. You cut the few layers of Matt They used to cap over the transom. On the inside Get some pie bars and wedges and remove the transom Along with inspect the stringers Makes sense To me What doesn't make sense to me? Is once you remove the outside Transom skin and And dig out the rotten wood.
What do you do when you find out? The strings are rotted too Or need replaced glass to transom up just to cut the deck open. Or is that the point when you decide? Pull rub rail, insert and drill out the rivets, And do it right first time
How did you do the corners with the new glass? Did you overlap each strip of glass to the intersecting? Curious as I’m doing the same repair to my boat. Thanks
Im digging out my two 3/4 inch sheet transoms plywood from the inside,don't have much experience and don,t know anyone that does,so here i am,the wood looks like there is epoxy around the outdrive as i can see the mat on both sides about 20 inches from the sides.Once i get the first piece fit.Im at 13 min now and im in to new territory,set up will be important.
Nice job only fault is u should have spread a cabisol mix on with a tile trowl prior to fitting your half sheets of plywood. What it does is fill any voids that you will have due to the two surfaces not being dead flat. Otherwise your getting there. It’s the little things when doing this work. Have to say I didn’t like the look or how they were left open at the transom, the stringers. Youmist a opportunity to make sure you will get 0 water infiltrating
should have gone composite
*with compisite
Coosa = 3-4x the cost. $$.
hey great video, im about to take on this project myself. Do you remember how much resin you used? also nice gti!
Good step is to resin the would let it dry. Then re-resin. The wood absorbs resin and will create air pockets. Also good to sand after each dry session to get the next layer if you are going to apply another layer,, a rough surface to stick on.
Quick question -- why did you build it in layers instead of building the entire thing and putting it in? Thanks.
Pry bar. Excellent job. Will go for it and follow your video
Great video. Really appreciated. I have same boat with a transom I think is in the same condition. Thinking of repowering so thinking of replacing transom first.
Best video I've seen for transom replacement
Friend, you should have cleared epoxied those plywood sheets before you put them in. If you did that, you would have defiantly sealed them from rot later on. Go though this much trouble you need to dot every I.
Plywood is a weird material the grains will swell and split the only thing you can do is make sure water can't get in most of the time it is from the bumper that goes around the boat along with the plug areas in the back by the motor I've done a lot of them and they are not fun.. it's mostly where the top and bottom join each other where the water leaks in... On some boats you have to remove the floor as well as cut out the the top back sides to get to the screws and brackets along with floor for inboard motors.... And then a repaint... The mat is not as string as the screen the door screen type fiberglass is stronger and it's called a rolled boat the boats with the mat type of fiberglass is called a chopper gun or blown in they are not as strong boats most of the time cheaper boats... But if you do repairs use the screen ...
If he has plenty of resin on the glass cloth it will penetrate the 1st layer of plywood, enough. End grains always absorb much more though.
Its a good thing he did not use epoxy to coat the plywood before he put them in, or the polyester resin would never have adhered to the wood. The Amine Blush would have kept the poly resin he was using from getting adhesion to the plywood. I do agree he could have coated the plywood in Polyester resin since that is the material he chose to use. I personally think that poly is an ok choice for this project but best would have been Vinylester resin as he was planning on gelcoating at the end. If he was going to use marine paint, like awlgrip/awlcraft then epoxy for sure, but with epoxy, you can not use gelcoat. He could have used a vinylester resin but in all honesty, it appears he used a good quality isophallic resin based on the color (not the shit brown boatyard resin) and that was good enough and Vinylester resin in near impossible to get right now at least in the USA and poly is good enough as long as you don't oversaturate the cloth as it is very brittle. Epoxy is more flexible.
@@hullhealersboatworksrestor4377 amine blush can be easily cleaned off, first.
@@robertp7209 can be cleaned off yes, however why risk applying gelcoat over epoxy. Have had issues where I know I cleaned the blush and still had spots not properly cure. It’s just not a risk that seems worth taking. Plus you have to then prime over it with duratech primer to be safer. And it’s way more money.
i have to recommend a caulk gun. empty a tube of caulk and go at it.
Awesome job and video. Best I have seen!!!
Perfection in auto painting and home garage don’t go together
Nice job. Thank you for posting 🙏
Looks like ribs and stringers might be in bad shape also.
This is COMPLETELY WRONG!
You NEVER cut your hull.
You separate your upper hull from your lower, lift it off, remove the old rotted transom plywood, then inlay a replacement. Pour in resin.
Fiberglass only has strength when initially molded as a whole unit, and you just destroyed that. Patch sections of matting and resin have next to no true structural strength, and piss poor adhesion. Hopefully you at least used proper epoxy resin and not polyurethane resin. Jeez the stupidity of some people.
Settle down champ. Yes the way you mentioned is better, but if you’d watched the video you’ll hear I mention that. Sometimes that isn’t viable or worthwhile for the value of the project, so here’s the best practice for doing it from the outside. 3 years on, 225HP bolted to the back and after smacking a few sand bars it’s as good as gold if done right.
How much money did you spend on the main transom rebuild? And any idea on how much time approx all up. Bit of a guess I know. Over how many days about. Cheers Mick
Probably $1500 and 4 days in the shed.
Lol😂 I call my crowbar my smash n grab:)
We call that a digging bar here in usa
Hey mate used your techniques to do my floor and transform but woundering why you didn't just spray flow coat instead of paint
I don’t think it’s any less hassle, getting a spray gun, comp, hose and nasking everywhere up is just as time consuming.
You put the layers on backwards. The larger piece goes on first for the largest area of bond then work outwards going smaller and smaller to fill the area.
Nope, that is actually incorrect. You start small and work your war bigger. That way each bit you put down is all independently bonded to the workpiece by the small area it is larger than the last. If you put the large layer down first, you are relying on once single surface of bonding, if that fails or does not set, it all lifts off.
Could you please supply a list of material you bought, how much would you charge for that job? My friend wants me to do his transom the same way but not sure what to charge, oh yeah he's not that good of a friend lol
I spent about $1200 AUD on materials, and spent probably the best part of 4 full days doing it.
- Biaxial matting
- Chop strand matting
- Core material, use Thermolite
- Resin/catalyst
- Flow coat
- Cabosil filler
- Q Cells filler
Thanks for creating and sharing this video. Not exactly the way I would have done it but I'm sure it will be fine and last quite a while. Question - is that a P38 I saw in the background?
Not being a smartass, but how would you have done it. Just a general idea. I never would have thought to replace the transom from the outside. It would seem like less work than tearing up the whole back of the boat. I ask because I am looking for a project boat. Its seems that 8 of 10 older boats have bad transoms.
Disco 1
Why is there holes down on the bottom corners to let water in to rot out the transom ? WTF ? I cant even process that shoddy workmanship wow
Those chambers are sealed, but yeah I agree it was disappointing to find.
Heck of a well done job:)
Bro what an epic repair job! Had you been present for the original build this repair would never be required! Wonderful eye for detail bravo!🙏🙏🙏
Looks like a good job to me 👍
Just watched one on another channel I got an audio visual of eating a little log in the dark on the river and ending up at the bottom 😳.
Did wet the plywood with resin first, then put glass down???
Yes soak it 2-3 times
Excellent job buddy.nice pug in the garage too
We call that a pinch bar
Great job, hoping the boat I have on my channel doesn't end up needing a transom! Keep up the great work.
Hey mate, I’m about to attempt a similar transom rebuild on my 4.8m. Just wondering if you can give me an idea of how much matting and resin that you used for the job? I live remotely and have to order all the materials but am a bit unsure of how much I’ll need.
Cheers
I’d recommend 15m of matting and 10L of resin.
@@cheapthrillsgarage thanks mate!
Hello there! Just came across this video! I have a simular project to do! Do you by chance have a BOM list to share? How much did it finally end up costing? Most appreciated! Take care
Fantastic good work! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Hmm 225hp on a 5.3mtr boat....wonder what haines originally rated Max hp on this model...
I did mine back in 2008 and some folks give me hell with all sorts of nasty comments and bad wishes, Guess what it's now 2022, and my (Wellcraft V20 1984) is currently powered by a 2015 Etech 135 HO still running strong, the transom is solid as a rock as it did from day one, I poured mine with Arjay 2011. BTW I have a jack plate with a 4" setback. I pity anyone doing the extra work from the inside and going back with wood. My hull is now 90 percent composite material and once I do the stringers and deck sometime in the future it will be 100 percent composite. Wood has no place in Boats in 2022 I pity builders who still do this.
fair play man lovely job!.....wish me luck!!! 🤟🤟🤟
I done fibreglass for 40 years mekp is added at 1.5 to 2% never do you go below 1.5% does not matter how hot it is .and layer up at 60 to 40 % of resin bog or filler to thin and and glass should be worked a lot more .last 10 years I have only done transom. Also approved to do repairs to aircraft up to dash 8. Written two books on glass work
So excellent🎯. Amazing! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Cheap thrillist, why wouldn't you fis board instead of wood again? Then your back to same problem again in the future.😅
Nice work, I liked the narrative and step by step description. You'd make a good teacher. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
GG for the job! (But you working so close from the GTI it sacred me 😅)
Guy next door works on his boat all night long ,,an talks to him self ,crazy bugger ,foster for beer 🍺
We call them crowbars too. But u did a lousy job. That boat is so not gonna last long. What a waste of money & time. It's gonna end up in a boat junkyard before the year is over. Hopefully u didn't block off the holes for the bilge pumps to pump the water out of.
Nice Job!
Didn't know one can rebuild transom from the outside, now I do!
Thanks!👍🚤
Well done! I put a new transom and stringers/deck in my boat a couple of years back. I did it all from the inside but used many of the same techniques. I used epoxy instead of polyester resin. The epoxy is more expensive but as I understand it, it will adheres better and has a longer pot life. If I ever do it again, I think I will go with polyester resin since I have some experience now and I can go quicker.
All glass matt manufacturers tell us to lay the widest layer into a repair and place smaller pieces in the low areas as you work till glass is just proud of the original surface. Look good Ethier way though. Let us k ow how long the paint holds up.
I'm confused about why people say to use epoxy if it's below the water line but transom repairs are done with polyester resin which is not recommended for below the water line.
Not gonna lie, I feel like this transom would of had another season in it if it was 2 inches thick. I am NOT a boat expert by any means obviously.
We call that a prybar or a "BFS" - Big fuckin screwdriver.
Good build, thanks for posting.👍
Never done a transom but I’m attempting this season. Wish me luck
Awesome video! Are you a shipwright builder? If not how do you know where to start what you need and what you are talking about? It rolls off your tongue with authority so guessing you have done quite a few beforehand.
Thanks
An empty caulk tube works great for injecting thickend resin into gaps, west marine sells empty tubes for just that purpose
I have two old boats I need to fix transom on! This will be very helpful thanks man :)
Very nice work, shame you didn’t have a couple of friends there to help you out. I know what it’s like to work solo, and most of the time it sucks.
Those chainsaw wheel blades are illegal in most places now because of how dangerous they are
you would think the boat builders would stop using marine grade wood? thats funny because it dosent look marine grade to me. why use wood near water? but thats a lot of work, good job!
That old wood wasnt bad at all, you could have stopped to water from getting in and it would have last another 25+ years. lol
Why would you use wood and not starboard? Sandwiching any wood between non-breathable fiberglass is guaranteed to result in more rot.
I have done two transoms before. It's definitely labor intensive. The first was with marine plywood.
The second, I used pour in composite transom. I will never use wood again. The pour in is so much easier and stronger. No cutting, fitting, or filling.
Michael, what brand pour in would you recommend?
man you done a terriffic job. excellent thanks for shareing mate
Most of the time when the transom is rotten so is the floor but I like working on glass boats better than aluminum boats I never liked riviting them and checking for leaks just to noisy...
Don't use thinner use alcohol to do cleaning for dust etc. For clean tools use thinner but it will effect the fiberglass resin
Instead of using a syringe, an icing bag that one would use to decorate cakes works spot on as well. Cheers
looks a sturdy job! Is that a 10kg tub of resin? Did you just need the one?
I call it a Rock bar. Overkill is always good.
I enjoyed your video.
awesome vid, will be my reference when replacing my transom
Having done this i highly recommend a belt sander with a shop vac attached to the vacuum. Dont breathe in the dust , not even a little
hi where r u i seek some where in brisbane to buy resin online is only from syd and mel also could you tell me the mix as in resin to hardener as if i was mixing 400ml of resin thanks
I have seen a handful of these transom replacement videos. it seems to me these boat makers should pick a better material than plywood for their transom cores. I know if I were buying a boat I would be overjoyed to pay extra for no plywood in the transom.
Nothing wrong with marine plywood, unfortunately the manufacturer failed to seal it properly with all the screw holes like trim tabs and cleats and other penetrations incl the 4 for the motor. If it’s sealed with resin, it’s waterproof. I prefer epoxy resins. If the manufacturer cored the holes with solid glass, water if leaking past a poor caulked screw hole, would not reach the wood, ever. Once again, more labor to do it right. More cost. Synthetic Coosa transoms are 3-4 X the material cost of same thickness marine plywood. It can’t hold much moisture if it does leak, but if in freezing climates off season may still delaminate when the moisture freezes. Any work I do, can never leak. I’ve rebuilt my 92 Grady Sailfish, stringers and bulkheads, and decks. Between 12-14 yrs ago I did the work, no degradation at all. I recently completed the last bit of it so I was able to check the condition.
@@robertp7209 yes I agree but if they used a resin then seal or no seal no failure and if manufactured in quantity the cost wouldn’t be to great after seeing 5 videos showing failures I’d gladly pay up for it plus they could claim they have the best transom on the market
@@pghgeo816 competition is forcing the conversion to synthetics like Coosa. Grady White a premium boat manufacturer has converted over, don’t know if every model, but I know they have. There is a lot of plywood in those boats not only transom, but stringers, bulkheads, and coring for the decks - just about every horizontal surface one stands on, is a sandwich of 1/2 in. Ply. Same labor to cut and install, just the material cost. The larger models also have the side hulls cored with 3/8 or 1/2 in. End grain balsa as well as sections of the bottom hull up forward.
@@robertp7209 you are way more informed than I on the subject I do realize that many of these boats are fiberglass laid on plywood but it seems to me judging by the number of transom repair video that plywood cores in the transom is a weakness more than other parts of the boats
@@pghgeo816 - more penetrations, including those metal caps. All points of leaks, only takes one, spreads like a sponge.
Great video. Labor intensive. Good outcome.
Mate that first layer of glass looked really drynlaynup
Just subscribed…. Love these vids…. keep it up….
What kind of mask did you wear to paint the 2 pack?
Great job and informative video!
Interested to know the cost of it all
About $1200
very good job i know its not that easy we missed all the sanding