Whaler 17 Restoration Project Ep 2

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  • Опубликовано: 19 мар 2024
  • 1968 Boston Whaler 17 restoration/ rebuild. It's been a minute since I've been back to work on this, but we're picking up where we left off from Ep 1.
    I gave the bottom a once over, grinding out previous repairs from the outside and uncovering some pretty good sized cracks along the keel and tunnels. I found the start of the keel crack, flipped the boat back over and then dug some more wet foam out of the inside. From there it was time to glass and rebuild, you can see how weak the factory laminate is without foam to support. Then some 2 part foam and laying down the new deck. The deck is a super light, super cheap PolyIso board from @lowes. Might catch some flak for that, but PolyIso is often used in boat building and the 1/2" thickness will have plenty of reinforcement from the 2 part foam under it. Also, cut and fit a transom core of 1 1/2" Coosa for the transom and got a few layers of 1708 on it so far.
    I flew back from CA and this was a sprint from Thursday to Monday, crammed in a messy tent with a propane heater. Apologies if the worksite looked like a tornado went through... it sort of did. Enjoy!
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Комментарии • 18

  • @tydengr
    @tydengr Месяц назад +2

    for sure It will come out a very nice one

  • @thomasbarbjr.5934
    @thomasbarbjr.5934 2 дня назад +1

    Hey Tom. Nice work. I have the same hull in super rough shape. I plan to do the same thing. The goboard is a great idea and I think I will use that as well. What are your thoughts on creating a skeleton frame with go board supports under the deck for foam compartments? I’m thinking of doing that and gluing the deck panels to the framing, then holes to pour foam in each compartment. Maybe that would keep the deck panel from warping.

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  День назад

      Yeah, the warping was my fault from too big of a foam pour. If I were to do it again I think I'd probably do a stringer grid out of 3" PolyIso foam (same material as GoBoard but wider). I would pour foam, sand/ level and fill, and then glue deck panels. Voids are inevitable in any top down pour.

  • @sbuzz5889
    @sbuzz5889 День назад

    go board ? it is back by foam?

  • @matthewsilva285
    @matthewsilva285 2 месяца назад +1

    Hey Tom, thanks for posting! I have a 16 Currituck I'm weighing with a scale followed by a 13'. I'm gonna find out whether or not to refoam or seal it up and run them for the summer lol.

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  2 месяца назад

      For the record refoaming should be the last resort! All Whalers have water in the foam and most do just fine. I’m certainly not going to say this was necessary or everyone should cut open their Whalers.

    • @matthewsilva285
      @matthewsilva285 2 месяца назад

      Absolutely agree with your statement, hence actually weighing them to see just how bad they are. Keep up the good work, we are looking forward to see some more video!

  • @kevinvey9474
    @kevinvey9474 2 месяца назад +1

    Good morning Tom, good to hear from you. I don't think I would have done anything differently. Foam exspansion is at best a geuss

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  2 месяца назад

      I should have let the deck bond a bit longer and harden up, or even glass it down but jumped the gun. Watching the deck rise in the time lapse was brutal!

  • @spinfish1434
    @spinfish1434 Месяц назад +1

    You’re making great Progress! How do you like the GoBoard after working with it? Looks very interesting and a lot less expensive then Coosa Board. Definitely keep up the narration, this series will definitely get more views! Your project looks great, looking forward to the next episode! 👍

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  Месяц назад

      Yeah it was good to get back to it, definitely had to rush but all good. I think the GoBoard is awesome. Thought long and hard about Plywood vs. Divinycell at $140/ sheet, less so about Coosa at $330/sheet. I had a scrap piece of 1 1/2" Coosa for the transom so it felt wrong to go plywood. I've done a few stringers out of 4" PolyIso roof board so had no worries about using this. The 1/2" wouldn't work for a traditional deck, but with a solid foam filled hull there is plenty of support. The top will get 1708 so it'll have dent resistance too when we throw a mooring on there.

    • @spinfish1434
      @spinfish1434 Месяц назад +1

      @@capttomharty Sounds good, what are your future plans for the boat? I watched the whole video in one sitting lol. Love this stuff. Keep the videos and narration coming!

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  Месяц назад +2

      @@spinfish1434 This will be a beater on Nantucket for the whole family to use. Fishing, clams, beach, waterskiing, and probably a bit of light duty work.

  • @masondawes1647
    @masondawes1647 Месяц назад

    How much of a budget would you set aside for a job like this including the foam and decking. Also how did you flip her to work on bottom ?

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  Месяц назад +1

      Lots of variables of course, but looking to do this for around $2k in materials. As for flipping, without the foam it only took 2 of us to lift.

    • @masondawes1647
      @masondawes1647 Месяц назад

      @@capttomhartythanks for the information I really appreciate your videos

  • @motorcoach123
    @motorcoach123 21 день назад

    I'm working on a 17 for my boss and can't seem to find the wire from the bow light to the consol , you have any insight on this ?

    • @capttomharty
      @capttomharty  21 день назад

      If you look at my first video on this project you can see the original wiring. It comes up through the foam at the bow, but does go bad over time. Its common to run a wire under the rub rail if the factory wire is compromised.