This is Why Maintaining the Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engine is so Important!
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2018
- Come along as we show you just how important maintaining the 5.4L 3v engine is.
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Brian, At 61 years old and working on gasoline engines since I was 12, I guess I would consider myself an O'l school mechanic. I can fix any motor that has a carb and distributor. However the computer cars of today I try to avoid them all together. To me they are WAY over engineered and complicated for me to work on. All I do is get frustrated with how they were made and how hard they are to wrench. I'm puzzled on what these stupid engineers were thinking. Back in 05 I bought a new F150 5.4 Triton. When it started missing and cutting out around 130k miles I bought a new set of spark plugs and started replacing them. It took me an hour just to replace the #4 cylinder up front and as you know that's the easiest one to do. I got so frustrated that I ended up taking it to a local mechanic to finish up on the other 7. So then at 160k the phaser's went out. I said to myself what in the heck am I going to do? I don't have 3 grand to pay someone to do it so I guess I'll have to do it myself. And then I found you on RUclips. Thanks to you I was able to do it all myself. I took ALL of your recommendations on the upgraded parts and I want to tell you I'm SO HAPPY with the outcome. It drives and sounds like a brand new truck! I'm so grateful to you and that you are so kind to put out there ALL your expertise and knowledge for us. You are a blessing to guys like me! Thank you SO MUCH for helping me thru the process as THERE WAS NO WAY I couldn't have done it without you my friend. God bless you and your family. Your awesome !!!!!
Ditto for me, mine had 174K and was dead for an entire year. A month ago I stumbled across this channel and last Saturday my '05 is back on the road!
@steve thats why you avoid the 3 valve engine they are crap because of the cam phasers and varable cam timing they added to it. 2 valve triton is what to pick for reliablity. 97 and 98 had gasket issues but 99-03 tritons are solid.
steve xxx I drive a 65 chevy C20 because I CAN fix it.
Linuxx 2v engines spat spark plugs out for a few years. The 3v is reliable with proper maintenance
@MrErik the 2 valve is the better engine you tighten your spark plugs on the 2v a couple pounds more then the stock rating and you wont shoot out a plug. 3 valve is trouble
Bought my 97 2V 5.4 Expedition new in 96 and now with over 432k miles. Just changed the head gaskets and replaced the timing chain guides for the first time. The thing was clean as a whistle and cylinder cross hatches we're still like new! These things run forever if you take care of them. I use Mobil 1 (synthetic)10-30 and have always changed the oil every 10k religiously. Amazing longevity!
nice mileage you got out of it! BUT thats the 2 valve engine you have. in this video hes talking about the 3 valve engine which is not as durable. 2 valve engines are more simple and deffinitley are my choice i avoid the 3 valve engine like the plague. ive been using full synthetic 5-20 on my 2 valve engine it has 330 000 kms on it still sounds great. im thinking of going to 5-30 but i really dont beat on my truck i just store some tools in it.
I’m guessing you live in the Midwest or somewhere with nice environmental temps !!!
Never seen a 2v quit unless the owner never checked the oil
Austin Howze you ain't lying those things just keep on going I had one with 200k and pulled it out just cause I wanted more power and put the 4v in which is just as good as the 2v
That's because it's a 2V which Ford should have kept. The 3V is a POS by comparison.
As a guy that loves Fords-paid for my last house working on them, I've learned on thing to cover my butt before doing any repair to the Ford 3V-check the oil pressure at idle. If it's below 25 there's no reason to repair anything until you fix the oil pressure loss. Most of the time a view in the oil pan with the camera shows timing chain guides blocking the strainer. Sometimes it's sludge from lack of maintenance. Most every time the bearings and crank have too much wear allowing oil pressure loss.
Glad to hear someone suggest 5W-30. For most North American climates that's all I will run. More cushion on the bearings and allows for longer life. 5W-20 was just for gas mileage. Of course, much thicker than that and variable valve components malfunction and pistons get hot from lack of oil being squirted on them.
Love those broken Fords though.
all manufacturers aim to engineer *reliable* slow failures else customers love 'em too much
I was told by a well trusted mechanic to use a product called ats chemical 505 cro to clean the engine. He said it was far better than seafoam or anything else. Also ats chemical 505crf for the fuel system cleaning. He said it has in his experience stopped oil consumption and helps with the exact same things he mentions can go wrong in this video. Has anyone had any experience with these products or have a reason why to not use them ? Also what oil filter do you guys think is best motorcraft/mobile 1/k&n gold ?
I love how you roasted The Car Wizard on his video of him trashing the 5.4L motor. That was so awesome!
its late but he didn't roast car wizard. if you go by the recommended oil change 5k and oil weight you will have engine issue. It shouldn't be like that. both said you need to do changes religiously at 3k to make the engine last. Most people will go by the manual and have engine failure,,, crap
Well compared to the 2v yeah the 3v sucks
Hearing all this makes me love my 2V 5.4 even more. I know the 3Vs can be really good engines but I'd hate to lose an engine because I'm stressed out and forget a few things
so when he said to use 5w30 did he mean only for the 3v or doesn't that also include the 3v
@@WADEPH33R3 I use 5w30 on all of my modular engines. It’s what Ford designed them to run on them they went to 5w20 to meet CAFE standards…. I rather have engine protection than gain 2 mpg
The proof is in the maintenance. Good comparison.
Not just intervals, quality of oil and filter, replacement of the pcv, engine flushes etc. I have an expedition with 311k miles on it, still runs good. Small oil leaks but you cant be too picky when you have that many miles.
no its not
BS, He has another video on why you should NOT follow the Ford maintenance guidelines.
WRONG!!! WRONG. WRONG!!!You could do everything right with this piece of shit engine and still find yourself several thousand dollars in debt fixing it.
@ CFOS sounds like you have a personal problem with this engine.
Been running 5/30 full synthetic.Change oil 3 times a year religiously. My 2002 f150 has 268,000. Still strong still fun still working good.
What brand oil do you use?
I have 253000 on my 5.4 3v, all original phasers change oil every 3000 miles, I know I'll change those phasers one day but for now they still going strong
Same here. I'm at 265,500, although I do get a little rattle, but it's had the rattle since I got the truck with 74k on it
285000km. Only thing done to motor is spark plugs once. Yes time to do them again but been very good so far
Greg Dixon regular maintenance and oil changes and these engines will live long
377.890 mile on my 01 2V
SaltLife I use valvoline 5w-20 conventional with the ford motorcraft oil filter 820s.
Your videos have been a life saver for us 5.4 3v owners. Keep em coming!
I have a 97 F-250 HD with 307k on the clock. Runs beautiful. Flawless performance. 5.8 all day.
Glad to see you have jobs backed up, a larger work area, and seem to be 150% recovered from working for the dealer life.
Damn I feel like driving out to Chicago just to have him work on my truck. Thanks for the videos
Agreed. These engines really needed a full synthetic oil ran at 5k intervals or less. Changing the oil is more important than the viscosity. The difference in operating temp in cst between a 5w20 and a 5w30 is only about 10% so that’s not a huge problem. 5w30 also has a wider viscosity spread and will shear faster than a 5w20. Both work well in this engine...if you actually change it religiously.
Is the 5w20 full synthetic oil good for the 5.4l v8 if you change the oil every 3k
I agree every 5,000 KMs no iffs or butts. Just do it. Mine has done 130,000 KMs in. Ford Fairlane 2006 model. She truly truly looks and runs like new. Awesome 👍
I always run a higher viscosity oil. My 09 f150 had 275.000 kms on it when I traded it in. That's about 175 000 miles and it still ran great. No cam issues at all.
Moving to North Carolina this fall. I think in the spring I'm going to have you go through my 2004 5.4 3V and update the timing system and oil pump. I've been nutty about maintenance and switched to 5w-30 motorcraft 5+ years ago. You are 100% worth the drive man. 12 hours from NC is worth an expert working on your baby.
It really is all about the maintenance. I’ve owned two 5.4L 3v’s with both having over 160k with absolutely no issues...just sold an 03 2v 5.4 with 336k on it and I currently have an 05 6.0 psd with 254k(egr deleted) but I am meticulous with all maintenance intervals as I used to turn wrenches for a living. Love your videos bro, keep up the hard work!
You’re a fantastic technician and I appreciate your passion. Keep making great videos for the rest of us. Thanks
I really like how he explains all the failure Ford builds into his truck
😉
Looove the older Ford Triton 5.4L V8s. Basic maintenance & can't kill em! Altho, I am super impressed with my 3.5L V6 Ecoboost equipped F150 Platinum FX4. Best truck ever in my opinion!
I have an 04 heritage F150 5.4L that i bought with 20 miles on it. I have changed the oil every 3-5 thousand miles and I now have 170,000 miles on it. I still runs and drives great. You have to do regular scheduled maintenance for sufficient high mileage use. I thank you for your channel and all you do to let me know how to keep mine running strong. I also have a 4.6 - 06 mustang GT & a 2018 eco boost explorer so I'm always watching for tidbits of things I need to do in order to keep them maintained. Thanks again!!!
Hi Brian! As usual I enjoyed this video! I'm another old school mechanic and started working on cars out of the 50's. Cars and oil technology have certainly changed. Back then it was not unusual to take the rocker covers off a car that had not been maintained and to find that it was so sludged up. That you could read the name stamped in the rocker cover, imprinted in the top of the sludge! It was like black Jello. This would plug up the oil returns so bad, that all the oil would end up on top of the motor in the rocker valleys and it would run out of oil in the sump, killing the engine. Today engines are much more sensitive to clean oil and even an engine engine that hasn't been maintained, looks great compared to what happened to these old engines.
Another good video. All the overhead cam engines I’ve worked on have plastic chain guides. Nothing wrong with them unless you have a tensioner fail. But if that happens nothing holds up. Something to be said about pushrod simplicity and reliability. I work on the new junk to make money and I drive the old junk to save money.
Great examples of both types of ownership. Thanks!
I knew I had heard you say in one of your videos to use 5w30! I finally found it! Thanks so much for your videos. I enjoy them and learn so much.
Great job. I have two Ford trucks, and F250 with the 2 valve 5.4 Triton and an F150 with the 4.2. I take obsessive care of them, and they run great. Thanks for the videos.
Great comparisons!!! Will certainly use 5-30 now in my 05 with 75k on it.
Has it ran better/provided better maintenance?
installed a melling HV oil pump over a year ago on my 09 5.4.... what a difference , how quiet it is and how smooth it idles now
5w30 is best thing I ever done for my truck 2007 f150 phasers failed at 72k swapped it all out did not do an oil pump tho knock on wood lol…. Here I am today 223k and still thumping along
I wish I lived closer to you to have you do this maintenance on my 2013 Expedition! You do good work!
Back in the 60's both of those would be considered very clean. I remember pulling a valve cover off of a car that was so heavy with sludge that we weighed it before and after cleaning and it had 5.2 lbs of sludge removed. On the engine itself we honed the cylinders, new rings, new valve seals and springs bolted it back together and it was fine for another 100,000 miles.
Had airport commercial Dodge vans ( 360's ) where the oil has turned to solid and had to remove the pan to trowel out the jello like oil. The new SF rated oil would never do that....
My 2007 f150 has 700k on it and I'm finally doing the timing on it, they phasers and are mint, I've been doing oil changes every 4000 kms the only major part I've had to do on it is the timing chains and guides
Good to see the new shop is busy. Great info on the importance of timely oil changes. Timely oil changes reduces the need for timing jobs.
I’m glad I finally found your video that has oil viscosity recommendation. Thank you so much. We really like our new rig 2014 Ford Expedition el.
i use to work on a fleet of vehicles which included super dutys f-250 and f-350 with the 5.4 3v engine along with some f-450s with the 6.8 3v engines and we found a problem using 5w-20 oil lots of noise/slapping since then we changed to 5w-30 oil and our engines had so many less problems
The plastic timing components are ok, but the chain guides should have a metal spine. Now on the factory tensioners the spring in them tends to get weak and allow the chain to be loose on Startup and the chain will sling around and often bust one of the chain guides. I prefer they metal tensioners with the little ratcheting arm that always keeps the chains tight, even in the absence of oil pressure.
Great Video. I've seen 4.6 with 350,000 miles and full synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles and those timing components looked new with maybe 20% grooved down tensioner arms and guides and I've seen a 4.6 with 130,000 miles and the chain ground all the way down into the tensioners and the chain guides completely busted to pieces. Maintenance is key for sure.
i love my 5.4l f250, i just rolled 160k on it today, your videos keep popping up on my feed but i switched to synthetic oil id say about at 143k or so and i can say shes running amazingly
just finished new timing set roler followers and lash adjusters. first time tearing into modular engine thanks to yoir videos wasnt baf at all. had slight tick so did it before major problem. hopefully another 175k miles . thanks again
I certainly hope RUclips is paying you well for the information you provide, at the very least you're repair business seems to be thriving. Do you recommend 5-30 on 3.5 Duratech? also is 5-7K change intervals acceptable?
I have a 5.4 3v, and a 3.5L eco. The dealer thought I was nuts when I asked them to do a trans flush on the 3.5L after 30K. They said the fluid was good for the life of the vehicle. I had to tell him, absolutely. But if I follow that guidance, the life of that trans will be less than 100K... >=|
Nicea Trya 9.5.18. You are absolutely correct......you can get much more life out of those Transmissions if the fluid is flushed at 30k mile intervals❗️The manufacturer recommended intervals are a marketing strategy to lower the perceived cost of ownership‼️
I had my transmission oil changed too...twice...no one seems to know how to completely drain it..even the dealer, because they only charged me for 7 quarts, and I think it holds something like 13 quarts. Then I went to a transmission specialty shop, and they did the same thing. I don't know if there is a torque convertor reservoir or what, but they aren't getting it all changed..just diluting it by about half.
The drilling company i work for has two 2011 F450 with the 3 valve 6.8 V10 both have over 250,000 miles on them without a transmission flush. They haul 1,100 gallons water with them also, off road and on road. One truck had y-pipe replaced, ball joints, tie rods, front wheel bearings, front axle u-joints, lifter tap fixed, and mass air flow sensor. The MAF sensor was replaced because the air filter was so dirty it got sucked up into the intake. The other truck had exhaust manifolds, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, front axle u-joints, and a transfer case at around 200,000 miles. Transfer case probably went becasue a new guy forced it from 4 low to 2 high while driving. I think the biggest problem with vehicles is letting them sit for long periods of time.
Brandon V very true
No they are right it will last forever. The transmission would never have failed at 100,000 miles because of trans fluid.
Definitely enjoyed this video man! Bought my 5.4 f150 new in 2006 and getting ready to do the timing set at 180,000 miles. She's been ticking for too long!!!
I have an 06 f150 with 105000 I was getting a rattle on cold starts so I took the front cover off the engine and found both tensioners were blown everything thing else was in great shape replaced both tensioners sounds great now thanks for your videos Brian it really helped me
As a retired Ford, Lincoln, Mercury technician, I would tell my customers that besides their house, their car or truck was their next biggest investment in life, and changing the oil would help with that investment.
U recomnned 5w20 or 5w30 for colder weathers on the 2v 5.4
And not buying a ford. 😂
@@1manarmyguzman629 5w30
Gowing up, my dad always told me cars are the worst investment you can possibly make. I laugh at the thought of people buying $50k trucks.
@@Gtbomb1 definitely dont buy a GM
It’s funny I was on the fence about oil weight and I was like let me search on RUclips for that one guy who knows fords inside and out sure enough makuloco shows up nails the answer immediately
Great video I own since new a 2002 F150 XLT 5.4 Triton 2 valve 4x4 with 4 speed auto 135,000 miles
Thanks for a very objective and comprehensive comparison! Truly informative.
Thanks for this video! I think this was an awesome opportunity for comparison. I have a question for you...if you were to buy a new F-150 today, which engine would you choose, and why? I'm asking because I'm currently weighing the decision of buying a new F-150 later this year. I do my own routine maintenance and tend to keep vehicles a very long time (bought my current F-150 new in 2004) so longevity and ease of service is important. Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated!
Very true and great wisdom just wish people take it
I had a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 85000 miles . Always changed oil every 3000 miles with 5w20 oil big mistake used it to tow a 4200 lbs travel trailer. Engine blew up. If I would have used 5 w30 it may have never have happened. $8500 for a new engine . In my opinion a 20 wight oil is to light for a 6000 lbs suv.
Daniel Sobkow oh I agree even my 99 explorer with a v8 calls for 5w20 oh hell na I use 10w30 no problem at all
it blows my mind that some people actually think you just have to put has in a vehicle and thats it
Thankyou for these tips. I recently purchased in Australia 🦘 a 5.4ltr 3 valve in a 2006 Fairlane. The last Fairlane Ford made in Australia. She has only done 90,000 miles or 130,000 KMs. Serviced and loved every 5,000Kms she is in absolutely amazing running order. Cheers my AMERICAN MATES.
Just had to replace my front hub 2010 F150 4wd . Was simple after watching this guy's video . Thanks
I always use 5w 30 when they are about 75k miles and over. Use recommended in new motors. After that get that nice syrup!
I’m a Honda tech and Honda has had the same issue. Ridiculously long OCI using 0W20/5W20 oils causing chain & VCT sprocket noise. All of Honda’s K24 engines are built here in the states. Engines shipped to European assembly plants are spec’d for either 0W40 or 5W40 European long life oils. These oils are much higher in anti wear additives and detergents than GL-5 USA spec’d oils. Here in the States emissions are required to be warranted for 80k miles so manufacturers have demanded lower anti wear zinc levels in GL5 oils. I highly recommend my customers to run either 0W30 or 0W40 in their Honda & Toyota engines. If they don’t want to spend the extra money for the oil I at least try to run a decent 5W30 oil in. My personal Honda is now 13yrs old and has never had anything engine- wise other than the required tuneup and valve adjustment. Chain, guides, VTC sprocket all factory and the engine is spotless inside.
You run 5-30,0-30,0-40?
I have an 06 f150 5.4 and the motor is as quiet as the day I first got it, I have always used mobil 1 synthetic and kept up with oil changes. I changed the plugs and coils at 100k and this truck runs like a champ.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make these videos. I’ve got the 3V fitted in my ‘06 Ford Falcon. Great knowing that my maintenance regime will be worth it in the long run... and if something ever does go wrong, I will know how to fix it!
BrentReyno How does that truck motor feel in a car? I bet the torque is nice?
It’s awesome! You rarely need to take it above 1750rpm.
It’s also mated to a ZF 6 speed automatic with sequential shift and a LSD. I’ll have to upload a 0-60
Honestly the 5.4 is a strong engine even if you abuse it. Near 200k on my father's only oil changes and filters. everything else is factory. I think my uncle's 5.4 is the same story but with 240k...
my 2010 f150 work truck has 350k lol
As soon as i heard you say switch to 5w30 on one of your other vids i did. Thank you sir for passing on your knowledge to us.😎👍👍
RockfordT1 Bass 15W-40 is better.
As soon as I heard this I had to replay that part multiple times. 😳
Making the switch this coming oil change on my 2010 because of this.
Why stop at 15-40w go to straight 50W like the shady used car lots do to hide rod knocks until the new owner has there oil changed to hear banging going on.. there is a few shady lots by me. The state has tried shutting them down twice!
Luca Fuoco i started to run 5w30 and it seems perfectly fine(3 oil changes with 5w30)
Thanks, bro awesome information which I appreciate very much. Always up for learning more every day.
Great video! Thanks to you i built a great running F150! Keep up the good work bro.
Great video. I think I'll switch right away to 5W-30 oil per the recommendation and reduce the oil interval to 5,000 miles instead of the factory set 7,500.
I have the 5.4 Triton 2v.
It has 220k miles and it's my daily driver.
I loved mine too. The only major thing I had to do was the TimeSert repair on the spark plug holes. Other than that just regular maintenance and when I sold it at 260,000 miles it was still running strong.
I have a 97 expedition with the 2 valve 5.4 motor I bought used with 171k miles. Change the oil every 3k miles with 5w20 high mileage synthetic blend and it runs great! Now has 215k miles. Just drove it from Alabama to Missouri.
Brian I changed over to 5W30 from 5W20 on my 2010 F150 Triton 5.L truck with 80K miles when you made this video and I can tell you my truck is incredibly quiet now. Its amazing how well it runs. Thank you.
Dude I bought a 2010 yesterday, should I put 5W30 in her next oil change? 128k on the odometer, only went for it because of the perfect maintenance record on the CARFAX
What oil did the 5.4 that was maintained well use?
Full synthetic oil, factory filter, 5000 mile intervals in modern engines.
Excellent video Brian. I'll switch to 5w-30 on my 2007 expedition.
You have a bunch of good videos and share a ton of good information
Lol, I remember pulling intakes off of 70s V8s running Penzoil and they had a half inch of muck in the valley by the time they died at 100k
Van Der Hoof Pennzoil literally makes the best conventional oil you can get. They also make some of the highest quality synthetic around as well. This isn't the 70's anymore. Shell Oil Petroleum owns them now and then make some of the highest quality products you can buy that are readily available. Just ask Dodge who puts it factory fill in their high performance hemis and used to as well in their Vipers before they halted production. They also factory fill Ferraris with Pennzoil so there's also that
yup, most that had penz oil clunked out around 70,000, don't care about the penz of today not going to ever use it, use Valvoline , clean engine no issues ever,
Doug Boerger I agree. I use Valvoline or Chevron and have super clean engines. At 130k I start dumping a few oz of sea foam in the oil 150 miles before I change it to remove any varnish. I go 250-300k miles and the body dies before the engine. Trans flush about every 25k and I get 300k trouble free miles from Dodge Caravan transmissions that everybody seems to think are trouble prone. I've never had either an engine or trans failure.
Used conventional Mobil in a 1999 intrepid bought new for the 13 years I owned it, still ran fine when i sold it. Those 2.7 sludge motors almost never made it that long. Now I've had my 1988 pickup for almost 10 years, 333,000 original miles on engine that's never been overhauled, still using conventional Mobil since I've had it and after replacing valve covers, can still see everything under there, no buildup or sludge whatsoever. Edit: valve cover gaskets replaced, not valve covers.
Pensoil is Parifin braised, like candles. That why you get that build up on conventional oil
Thank you for your beneficial videos my friend
I have a question: my car is 2007 mercury mountaineer 3v 4.6 I’m using 5w20 as in the manual and I live in Saudi Arabia the temperature is around 40 degrees centigrade should i use 5w30 or deferent oil?
Thank you
Hussain Hejazi i dont think you would have problems finding oil in saudi Arabia😂
I'd go to 5w30 if I were you.
Have an '05 F150 5.4L 3V with 218K miles. During my annual service had the phazers, timing chains with guides, tensioners, etc. replaced. Also had a Melling HD oil pump installed while it was torn apart. There was only a trace amount of varnish build-up to be seen on any of the exposed areas and parts. It now runs like a top! As a note, I use 5-20W Amsoil and I change it once a year or 15,000, whichever comes first (the secret is in their filter). By the way my truck's normal daily weight 8,500 pounds. When pulling my 28' travel trailer, it's over 9K. All I ever feed my engine is 91 octane, non-ethanol gasoline, that's to my Edge Evolution CTS2 Programmer, S&B cold-air intake, BBK 81mm throttle body, Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, Jet Performance MAF/AIT sensor, 3.73 differentials and other upgrades. Will never own another truck ... too late in life!
Brian, great video!! Awesome explanation in comparison between those two trucks. Now I can see the difference!!! Thanks for the education! :)
Great video. Do you recommend 5W-30 for the 5.4 2-valve as well?
I've wondered about this for a while: is there a specific reason why Ford decided to use 3 valves instead of 4 and SOHC instead of DOHC?
They should’ve whent pushrod, and stuck to 2 valves
After 13 years I just had the valve covers off my original owner 2009 5.4 for the first time. It was dealer serviced with Motorcraft oil until 2018 and then I experimented with several different brands before settling on Mobil 1 for it. I could not believe how clean the valve covers, cams, and top of the cylinder heads were as there is no buildup, sludge or discolouration and everything is still shiny silver clean with no signs of wear on the cams,etc. I did not expect to see that level of cleanliness in a 13 year old motor even though it’s had the oil changed religiously since new, I guess proper maintenance does pay off.
Thanks for the 5/30 advice. Mine has 186 and is good but I want to give it the best chance.
Ford tech make you loco is the standard for Ford. Ford buy this man a truck so he doesn't turn into ramtruckmakuloco
ford your too late.... he already bought him a ram
... he works on Fords so he can drive a good RAM!
🤗
Quick question. Why does one side have less varnish than the other? My 4.6 with just under 200K had the same thing. One side slight varnish and one side brand new
crankcase vapors being sucked up to the drivers side.
Thanks!
01' F-250 Super Duty 4x4 Crew Cab with the Triton V-10, same as the 5.4, just two extra cylinders. Only 135k miles, but almost every one of those miles has been towing a trailer, or cab-over camper on with a trailer. Just towed from Seattle to Maine with 11,500 pounds of trailer and truck fully loaded. Total weight of truck and trailer for this trip was 21,000 lbs. Never an issue. I perform an oil change once a year if I don't use the truck much that year, or I change the oil every 3,500 miles. Always have used 5-20 synthetic. It does not even leak or seep oil. Awesome truck so far.
Wish this guy was located in Alabama . I'm Ford guy and watch this guy videos all the time . Top Notch Tech
What about the 2 valves?? 5-20 or 5-30?
depending on season:
5w30 winter or 10w40 summer
The super thin 5w20 delivers low pressure because it leaks out of all dynamic surfaces before the camshaft rear sees any lub.
5w20 is like driving with 1/2 tire pressure: premature wear!
👍
So 5w 30 is what i should start running? I have 2 5.4 tritons and was gonna do oil changes today
It depends on your climate.
It shouldnt matter, as long as its API SN they all meet the same standards. Pick your favorite colour or your brand of choice, Motorcraft is a fine oil at a reasonable price.
I usually run castrol high mileage and live in ny. But he said start running 5w 30
Whatever is on sale with a filter, and meets the spec.
Yes definitely use 5w30 Motorcraft oil
That first engine looks beautiful!
Thanks for the oil recommendation. I was wondering about that.
That second engine wasn't abused too badly. There's no sludge in there, it's a dark film covering. Too bad Ford can't make them right the first time instead of having to redesign parts.
CAD and engine room thrashing may not expose the same problems that real world day to day grind and neglect will.
Would you recommend switching to 5w30 on the 4.6 3v mustang engine as well?
SSG3084 I would like to know this as well!!
SSG3084 Is 5w30 better for just the phasers or the whole engine?
I have an explorer with the 2v 4.6.
4.6 are way more reliable and bullet proof then the 5.4
AH404 I don't know that's why I am asking myself
In another video Brian posted about a year ago or so he does recommend 5w-30 for the 4.6L 3v as well. As I recall he says that these Triton engines call for 5w-30 in South America and seem to have less issues as here in States and Canada. BTW 5w-30 was what Ford spec'd for the modular engines until the CAFE standards were changed in the early 2000's.
Very professional! Thanks for the tip.
My ‘05 f150 is at 109k and I’ve recently seen lots chatter about 5w 30 vs 5w 20. Then I decided to go to benchmark of standards…you. I am switching to 5w 30 asap. Thanks
Get this guy the 2018 f150 Diesel
y the added cost of the motor , + cost of all that EPA BS emissions control shit you will have to constantly have to fix , it's not worth it
Do you recomend engine oil flush to prolong vvt life
This kit- amzn.to/2rrAvwj
Thanks for the info.
I just picked up an '09 F150 5.4 with 70k miles. I need to get a long service life from this truck. Thanks for the tip on the 5w 30 oil.
I'm looking at 2003-2007 Expeditions for sale in my area with the 5.4 Triton; around the $4,900 to $7,900 range, with about 153K to 180K miles on them. Thanks for this video.
Good engines, but NOT tolerant of poor maintenance
I am a tech in a Chevrolet we have had terrible issues in the 2.4 Ecotec and 3.6 vvt engines with timing chain issues. I have personally torn engines down that have so much buildup from lack of service I have had to scrape the sluge off of timing component bolts. Changing your oil is the cheapest insurance you can have. $30 every 3k can save you thousands
cayugabrother1 That is no joke, I work at a Chevrolet dealer also and it's not uncommon to have one of those engines every couple weeks come for timing chains or rods and pistons(2.4). Expensive/good oil is still cheaper than an engine.
cayugabrother1 Any tips on maintaince on a 4.3l V6 ecotec3 2016 silverado?
The 4.3 ecotec is just a 5.3 minus the front cylinders. Changr your oil every 5k and keep good fuel in it. This engine ises high pressure fuel system like a diesel and contaminated fuel can ruin things quick
cayugabrother1 I forgot to mention I have flex fuel. Would i still need high grade fuel?
When I say high grade fuel I'm referring to fresh fuel. Don't put any old gas in it thats been sitting around the garage for a long time or sometimes junkyards sell fuel they pull from vehicles. Thoes are the things to stay away from
Great update Brian👍
Have an 05 F250 with the 5.4 on my parents farm, has 400,000km (250,000mi) changed the oil every 10,000km (6500) castrol syntec 5-20w and Fram synthetic oil filters, coolant and transmission flush every 100,000km along with spark plugs and still runs great. Engine is completely original no major mechanical work done to the engine, other than replacing two of ignition coils. Truck was used on the farm and survived my brother and me in our high school days. I'll use Valvoline's old slogan "Change your oil, not your engine"
I have a 2012 f150 5.0, 185k miles(mostly hwy)
I’m suspecting I should have some heavy maintenance done soon for longevity sake. Ballpark how much a job like this costs?
$1-2,000? or $2-3,000?
StoneysWorkshop Same question.....ballpark price for this job?
StoneysWorkshop I too would like to know the cost but really the # of hours + parts cost please!
About 2000 for basic timing component replacement at a private shop at a dealer probably 4000
Michael Trower wow for the dealer cost you could almost get a new engine!
derekisthematrix yes you are correct a reman engine is about 3200 plus labor and parts to install
Also virtually ever manufacture uses plastic guides for timing chains. Virtually the entire industry.
Josh Leviton I noticed that too. I watched a bently documentary and they were using plastic guides in the engine lol. I have a 4.6 3v on my 08 Mustang GT. 170k miles and runs better now than when it was new lol. I use steel tensioners from the older GTs instead of the plastic pos ones Ford put in the newer mustangs
Floor-It-Duh
Chrysler doesn't anymore on the 5.7, since the 2008-2012 Challengers and Chargers had timing chain issues.
There's a good reason to use plastic versus metal in this case. Metal on metal causes wear and the softer metal is going to give. Trust me, you would rather have the guides fail first instead of the chain.
Floor-It-Duh
Better to make a better quality guide to begin with and not use cheap plastic.....plastic will wear before metal.
If the guide fails the chain can fail to.
That is the point. So that the guide does wear first. It is literally the point.
This way if for whatever reason it fails the guide fails first and instead of both chains and guides failing at the same time all at once leading to a catastrophic destruction of your engine you have the chance to limp it off the road and prevent having to buy an entire new engine.
There is no "better quality". Have you ever handled them? I have. They are tough as shit for plastic. It's not normal plastic like you think. The people who engineered them and the plastic know full well and far more than either me or you and I say this as a mechanic.
It's called built in failure points. It's done to save you money versus having to buy an entire new product.
I installed a phaser lockout, big cams and better springs, ported the heads and shorty headers. Full synthetic oil every 5k. Changed the spark plugs every 25k to help avoid the nightmare of one breaking and falling in. I drove the snot out of the truck for 150k miles before needed a bigger back seat. I never had an issue from the engine. I did manage to break a drive shaft though.
320000km on my 2009 5.4 3v oil change changed every 5000km pennzoil ultra synthetic 5w20 and Mobil 1 filter , has the slight tick at startup and in the summer when it’s at a hot idle it rattles sometimes . Will be switching to 5w30 for summertime , was going to do the cam phaser delete but with this many km I don’t feel like spending 3500$ on it , so till it blows up I’ll keep driving it , plugs changed every 80000 km still has great power . And preformed great in the -50 weather we had in Canada this winter
What dis the guides look like in the nasty truck? Was there a difference in those parts?
I should have shown those, they were all in pieces both sides. Phaser came apart VCT solenoids cracked off
OUCH
John Ferguson I was wondering too as I didn't know if I missed it.
If you take care of a 5.4 it will last forever. Just like any other engine. They have a bad rep because idiots bought them and didn't take care of them and blamed everyone else but themselves. The 3 valve 5.4 is a good engine.
A P Dont forget all the youtube mechanics talking crap for views.
Agreed.
bought a well maintained 2010 lariat any tips? other than 5w30 oil?
No sirve. No tiene fuerza. No quema llanta
Thanks for the helpful information.