@@CadgerChristmasLightShow unfortunately yes. There’s alot of great auto mechanics out there but there’s also a lot of terrible ones too. Dealerships too.
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow so incredibly rare these days. No wonder people ship their cars many states away from Kansas just for service. I believe that Jag F-Type had a Louisiana plate, for instance.
My 2005 F150 Lariat has zero sludge at 227k miles. Change the oil every 4-5k miles with Penzoil synthetic. I agree, if it's sludged, time for a rebuilt motor.
Keep taking good care of that engine and it should see 300-400k, I've seen them with more but you can reliably expect that kind of mileage out of a 3V that's been cared for and driven properly.
thanks for posting, taking care of an engine is important and changing the oil with good oil at 5000 miles is really important. You probably don’t put the pedal down when Engine is cold, -10 C
@@jamesyarbrough4777 this works on some engines. I had an 02 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4l which i did that to and it didnt exactly help. Just pulled the valve cover and upper oil pan, scraped it out, much better afterwards. As for motor flushes, the technician really should know the design of it. When I first began working as an automotive technician, I was at a Kia dealership. I remember we would sell motor flushes on 3.8L Kia Sorentos (I think that was also in the Sedona back then,) but not on any other engine. The 3.8L was, apparently, the only one without these little mesh oil passage filters. The other engines, at that time, had at least one per bank in the block, only accessible with the head removed. Anyways, know the engine. Motor flushes are gambles. Hah I don't even know why I went off on flushes when you said more frequent oil changes.
You have to be careful when buying a car in today's market. I was helping my sister get a car about 2 months ago and she wanted this camaro from a chevy dealer. It only had 45k miles on it. I was looking it over and the engine, transmission, and other things were replaced with junkyard parts. I crawled under it and you could see the heat tabs on the engine block and there was writing on the transmission and ECU. I told my sister no way. If this is what's on a major dealership lot, can't imagine what's on an independent lot. I think the car was in a flood. The strut mounts and bolts everywhere were really rusty. and the trunk smelled like a swamp.
Can't believe some of the junk the main dealers are selling these days. Stuff they would never have touched before but they are desperate for sales, so almost everything they get they sell.
Used to, about 30% of trade-ins would go instantly to the auction block with another 20% going after not being sold in a week's time. Now everything is being kept on lot after a really quick maintenance tour just due to the fact that even trash is selling 20% higher now than it did this time last year and 30% over March 2020 prices. As long as people keep paying a premium for any old garbage, stealerships will keep selling trash.
It’s illegal for anyone to sell salvage or flooded cars, these dealerships need to be held accountable, very few of dealerships are honest and managed well, but a lot are run by scammers and crooks.
blame insurance companies too. they only use used parts. the car may have hit road debris on the freeway busting the oil pans and insurance destroyed the cars integrity
You are right on the money! It kills me to see customers wasting money on timing chains and so on. Some of them you can't tell them that they are throwing away money, some blame you
Yup, I wouldn't have put anything on that nasty engine... all sludged up? No way, drive it till it dies or get a new engine. Sludge dosen't just happen, that's a pretty severe lack of care.
I've worked at a dealership most of my working life in parts and always work with the technician (where possible) to come up with a comprehensive parts list. Then the advisor comes back and says "is this right? how is it that much?" To which I reply "they may not need all of that but if you give them a number and we come in above it we're the bad guys, nobody is going to complain about coming in below budget if they don't end up needing all of that." How well that gets conveyed to the customer seems to determine whether we get the job or if they take it to the "I know a guy who can do it cheaper" who inevitably messes it up.
@@406Steven and when that cheaper person messes it up, many of my customers do end up returning with apologies. They pay what we ask. We fix it. They're on the road and haven't come back for those issues. It comes down to education on the subject. Man... I could launch into what should be taught in schools... Just use your imagination 😑
@@danielkoontz6732 They come back MAD when the other shop messes up. My experience is that you have to document absolutely everything as thoroughly as possible. We just had a lube shop toast a 6.6 gasser in a newer Chevy by running it without oil. Busted out the cell phone and took video of it going on the rack, draining the pan, pouring the oil they out in afterwards through a coffee filter, and then cutting apart the oil filter. The customer and the manager of the lube shop ended up in our shop talking about it and the customer had to be restrained from assaulting the manager. All over "saving" a few $ on an oil change.
Yeah you can get away with replacing timing chains and phasers but you have to make sure that's actually what it needs and not just throw parts at it with crossed fingers.
This is why the Wizard is so respected, and he helps to restore my trust in mechanics after being burned a few times. Many would cut corners and STILL charge the $7K. Wizard is thorough, and being thorough is what keeps you on the road many miles and years down the line. It is ALWAYS in the details!
Oh trust me. He's making great profit. Charging between 75-135 an hour for labor. Pays emoloyee mechanic 20-22 an hour.....even at low end that's 4 times the amount in just labor profit. He's just fine ha
Totally did the engine replacement after my father in law bought the truck. He died shortly after. Glad he never knew the engine was junk. We replaced it so we could drive it for sentimental reasons
I have a 2009 version of this engine. 146,000 miles with no issues. I change the oil religiously. I honestly love the power band of this engine and what those variable timing phasers do to to make usable torque at the right rpms. I tow a 6100lb camper and can keep up with traffic just fine on the hills with it's 310 hp.
@@caryhuffii7224 Like most Fords they get a bad rep because people treated their car like crap then when it eventually breaks down it's the vehicles fault. Take good care of them and they hold up a very long time.
@@alb12345672 I'd save up for an engine, just in case. The front 4WD hubs may or may not need anything, otherwise just change all the fluids and enjoy.
We've learned this some years ago, now we are very upfront with the customer about what is wrong and why we're recommending a new engine... when they ask for cheaper options I say "the best I can do is put the pin back in the grenade".
I learned the hard way with a Kia Optima. I kept paying to have the cheaper options done only to lose all that money ($2400 over 5 months) when the engine blew up anyway. I now know how to diagnose most electrical/mechanical things on a car, even if I am not physically able to do the work myself.
I've been a parts guy for the last 23 years. A couple of years after the three valves came out and my shops were busting plugs off in them. Then a couple years after that the phasers started failing.So now I pretty much refuse to sell the phasers off the shelf unless I get them from the dealer. But some shops insist on doing them. So I tell them there will be no labor claim on them when they fail or the engine goes to crap. I have some shops that heed that advise and some that don't (buy here pay here lots). Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for explaining all that is required for the engine replacement. When you did your first video, I looked up the cost of the 3 valve 5.4L on PowerTrain products. Truly, you showed today swapping an engine is not just the cost of the engine.
I have the 4.6 3v in my mustang. For years now after every oil change my cars engine will make a random tapping noise at random intervals like someone is typing but goes away after a few minutes. Always right after the oil change. Other than that the engine still runs good
I also think why a lot of these 5.4s are failing is because people always want to use thicker oil. These engines need 5w 20 not 10w 30 and that thicker oil generates more heat and more friction causing the sludge.
The 5.4 2v (used on the 10th generation "Jelly Bean" Ford trucks), the 5.4 4v (used in various Lincolns), and any variant of the 4.6 (2v and 3v) are great engines. The 5.4 3v is a bad engine unless you do religious 3000 mile oil changes. The 5.4 3v is known to sludge up and the sludge is what kills the engine. If you owned the truck since day 1 and do 3000 mile oil changes, its likely your 5.4 3v will last a long time. If the engine is idled like a police car, change it based on hours, which is typically 300 hours per change.
@@Kevinb1821 When you drain the oil, the oil in the pick up drains out and lets air in. When you fill the oil back up it won't displace the air in the tube because the air would need to move down which it can't. So when you first start it there is a quick moment where the air is being pushed out of the pump and galleys and no oil is present. The best thing you can do is pull the fuse for the fuel pump and let the starter roll the engine over for about 10 seconds so it pushed the air out under no load and very low RPM. I absolutely love the 3v engines and have had no major issues out of any of them.
Love your videos!!!!!.....The price of big trucks are about to plummet when gas gets $6-$7 a gallon. My chevy long bed has a 35 gallon tank @ $7 that would be $245 for a full tank. Let that sink in...Just crazy.
"To every season, there is a season." This happened in the 1970's, then again in the 2000's. Prices will drop on those vehicles. But, our economy will not run without the gas guzzlers ever. Yeah it sucks to fill my F150s 36 gallon tank. Luckily I work from home and use it as a run-about vehicle. People will still buy them, and manufactures will still build them.
@@leechburglights yeah I agree. I am so fortunate I don't have to depend on that vehicle, but I live in a rule agriculture Community where a lot of people do and it's going to hurt.
@@jasontodd5953 we tried to tell people a year ago this was going to happen. 80 million people didn’t listen and now like the Vice President said last week “you get what you voted for”
Thank you for all of your good informative videos I think I speak for most consumers when I say that at the end of the day all the customer wants is to be treated fair and honest, with no BS or unnecessary up selling. I would like to find a mechanic in my area that will be as thorough and honest as you are. I hope there are shop owners out there who watch your content and understand that if they treat their customers fairly they will build a loyal long-term clientele base. Unfortunately there are a lot of dishonest shoemaker mechanics out there who charge good money for subpar work.
That sludge didn't appear out of thin air, or come from an engine design flaw. That was from lack of routine oil changes. Then that sludge carried over into the oil passages blocking the oil flow. The phasers going bad was just a symptom of the neglect. I can only imagine how bad the crank, rod and cam bearings must've looked. Once the cam phasers started clacking that was the death knell of the engine. It's simple folks: DO. THE. MAINTENANCE! If the previous owner changed the oil on a consistent and regular basis this might have been avoided.
That's what people don't get. MAINTENANCE! These tritons will last hundreds of thousands of miles IF they are taken care of. Neglect any piece of equipment and you will get premature failure.
Yes and no. Yes they need maintenance, but they need it more than what the book recommends. They can't go 4.5-5k like the book says. And if they're short tripped a lot, you can have issues at 3k even. And 30 weight is a no go on them as well. So you're correct that it can be prevented, but you can't fault a person by following the manufactures recommendations. Since the v10s without the phasers can go the normal oci without issue.
@@_r.t- I drive a '14 Cayman S and I change it yearly. It only sees about 2000-2500 miles per year, so it comes out just barely brown. I still say it is cheap insurance! Thanx.
7:50 No Wizard that is not what happens in a shop that is what happens in YOUR shop. Not all mechanics are created equal and you sir are the benchmark to which all others are measured in my eyes.
LMAO that the customer is spending $7,000 on an engine swap, then they're going to hit the roof over another $20? Reminds me of famous story about the rich guy that spent $800 on a dinner party, then goes on a rant and rave against the restaurant because they declined his $5 off expired coupon. Thanks for the great video Wizard. For those of you not familiar with the concept of a core charge, certain auto parts are rebuildable IF you turn in the original part UNMOLESTED. The seller selling you the new part tacks on an additional fee called a core charge. You get that core charge money BACK if the old, returned part is returned in original condition (returned the way you found it when you removed it from the vehicle), not disassembled, modified, etc. The part seller evaluates the returned part and if it meets the requirements for returning the part, you get that back. But if they get it back, and it's been modified, disassembled, damaged beyond their ability to rebuild, etc. you don't get that core charge refunded.
Amazing that's all I could say I have work for several shops and trust me what you're saying will blow them away thank you for being a honest wizard 🙏🙏🙏
That crud inside the engine looks like the results of trying to get 10k miles out of an oil change. I've got 300k miles on my 96 k1500 5.7 - bo sludge under the valve covers on the lifter valley area. I changed the oil every 3k miles and uses marvel mystery oil every so often with a 500 mile change. No engine flush !
Still got my 04 f150 with the 5.4. The truck has never failed me. 200k+ and still going strong. I'm meticulous with the oil changes and have one of the best mechanics for the 5.4 3v 10 minutes from my house. Awesome truck for me!
Got an 07 F150 with the 5.4L too. Has 175k miles on it. Actually just did a 1300 road trip this week. Never left me stranded. The key is to change the oil every 3k-5k miles and you will be fine.
Thanks for the info, I've owned 2 older models (99 &01) with 5.4s and loved them . I'm new to your channel and was watching some of your older stuff and saw your video on newer 5.4 motors. You probably saved me a lot of money because I'm looking for a little newer truck and I was actually seeking out a 5.4 Now if it's not a 4.6 I immediately move on
Makes sense to me, especially with those parts which will wear out and might need a lot of work when it's time to change them. Do it right or don't do it at all. (Except when you're Hoovie 😊)
3V is not a good engine. BUT once you understand them they are fairly straightforward to work on. I just worked on one yesterday. Engine had a loud top end tick, and they kept driving it. Popped off the pass side valve cover and one of the rocker arms had locked up and ate into the cam. IF it would have been caught sooner, just a rocker arm. Fix: I used the cheese wedge, pulled the phaser, and cam. Replaced the cam, all rockers on pass bank, cam bolt, and put it all back together with a new valve cover gasket. $350 in parts and 2.5 hours I was in and out. Engine runs like a clock now and sounds great. Maybe a bandaid fix, but its good for now.
I wish your shop was closer to me because we could use an honest mechanic shop in South Alabama! all the ones down here love to lie just to take the customers money and it makes me sick that a good mechanic shop is hard to find around here...I have been doing my own work on my vehicles because I am tired of getting ripped off..Take for example in 2010 my moms 2004 Kia Optima she bought new broke the timing belt and i tried telling them it needed to be done but they kept putting it off until it broke and they sent it to the Kia dealer where they bought it and the dealer replaced the belt and told them it was fine..A few months later the motor locked up and she hired a local mechanic to swap the motor and he ruined it so bad that the car ended up being scrapped and ever since then I have yet to find an honest mechanic down here...why is it so hard to find an honest mechanic like the Wizard? anyways Wizard thanks for being an honest stand up guy looking out for the customers and I am sure the owner of this truck will get many years use out of that truck thanks to you and your guys hard work..good job Mr. Wizard!
Wow, I do believe that some 5.4's are fine candidates for repair*, but anyone seeing that amount of sludge should have known to not bother with new phasers! I wonder are those cheap aftermarket phasers too? * - Properly fixed with uprated OEM parts only, phasers, chains, guides and tensioners, followers, seals, solenoids, etc. Definitely a new motor here (and before the phasers) was the call.
if I spend $7k on a new engine I'd spend little extra replace as many older replaceable parts. Also improves gas mileage microscopically just a factor for today's gas prices
@@nickd.7267 it's 100% not worth it which he went over. If prices were normal things things wouldn't get done, it would be off to the junk yard. If you had a clean truck you loved, putting a new engine and Trans basically gives you a new truck with an old style.
Obviously this engine had other issues with all the sludge buildup but I'd like to point something out here - those phasers and timing chains are definitely not OEM Ford parts (notice the chain doesn't even sit fully on the teeth of the phaser here). If you are doing work on your 3v ONLY use OEM parts, not only are they the best quality parts for this job but they have actually revised and updated designs for the chains, phasers, roller followers, and even the tensioners. Its been very well documented that using other branded parts _cough_ *dorman* _cough_ leads to premature failure on these timing jobs. The OEM stuff is more expensive yes, but it's worth it. And the kit comes in a cool Ford Performance box, too. :)
I appreciate your integrity and your willingness to educate the motoring public. Years ago, I had a self-employed "Wizard", just like you. Sadly, 3 heart-attcks later, he had to retire. You two "Wizards" demonstrated that people of honour can still make a decent living in to-day's environment. Greatly enjoy your and Mrs. Wizard's videos.
Wizard I did a sure fire way to increase the reliability of my Ram 1500 for me during my ownership. It's called riding the commuter bus. Likely what this 5.4 3 valve owner should have did instead of mileing the thing out with long oil changes. 3k mile oil change intervals keeps these 3 valves happy Wizard. Almost no one does that mind you.
How much does that oil change cost you? Isn't that a huge cost factor, I mean assuming 100$ for oil means 1000$ every 30.000 miles or 5000$ at 150k miles. Just wondering if driving the crap out of the engine and replace it when it's done would be financially more viable. Just put the money for the saved oil change in a basket and you'll save up the money in no time.
@@peiguy1982 according to wizard it's a 7k $ job. And here in Europe (good synthetic) oil is very expensive plus the labor involved and the time wasted of going to the shop, so all in all changing oil at that rate sounds insane to me. My (Diesel) engine on my old car had oil changes every 37.500 miles (specified by the manufacturer) and ran like new when I sold it with 180k miles on it. Of course if it's just a 20$ job in the US why not. I had like 5 oil changes in 10 years at let's say 150$ each that would be 750$ all in all. Changing every 3k miles would have been 12times that so 9000$. But sorry for asking, have a nice day :)
@@computercrack Computercrack….HMMM….you sound like a bean counter. You are probably not even mechanical inclined. What you did not factor, is that the engine would be running like crap or eventually FAIL before your calculated END GAME SAVINGS! Goodness dude, I mean REALLY????
@@computercrack I live in Canada things are expensive here too. And if you tried that mileage on a diesel here with the emissions system here it would be big trouble. A 20k km oil change on my last vehicle a Ram 1500 ecodiesel would have been a 20k engine job for sure. Yes it's over 20k dollars. Changing the oil on that was 275 at the dealer. Obviously your diesel was pre-emissions. I just don't think you will have too many mechanically minded people agreeing that going long on oil changes will save you money in the end. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. 7k USD is about 10k Canadian.
When I was a kid back in the sixties I helped my dad overhaul the 283 in a '62 Chevy Bel air he had purchased. I literally used a spoon and butter knife to scrape off the half inch of crud off the lifter area on the heads and lifter valley. Fun memories
My 2005 has 214,000 on it. I'm the third owner and I did have to change the timing chain tensioners at around 151,000ish. Other than that I just change oil regularly. and so far so good.
The Car Wizards has the coolest walk on RUclips! I'd love to see a continuous loop video of him just waddling around on his stubby little legs with Pantera's WALK as the background music!
What do you do with the radiator? Do you flush it or replace it? Those rusty hoses would mean there could be rust in the radiator. Thanks for the content it is great!
I replaced mine. And I also took the opportunity since the engine was out to backflush the heater cores to get the gunk out. Heater cores are just too hard to get to lol
The people who make Evaporust now make a similar product (Thermocure) for cooling systems, it cleans out rust deposits and suspends it in the water, which you then drain and flush a few times. I hear the cast iron winds up as-cast gray.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 Thank you.I was wondering the same thing and didn't know what to use as there's so many crap products mixed with good on the shelves.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to show us what to look for,and why, when we're looking to buy a vehicle.You never just say,"I hate this or that" without describing why and I appreciate it.I've actually warned my family and a few friends about the problem vehicles from your reviews.My nephew has a nice new Chevy truck he traded in his Ford for as it had the 5.4.
Having been bought up watching top gear in England I can say hand on heart these episodes are better. No smutty talk, no obvious scripts. These are more professional and informative. The wizard is a pleasure to watch and learn.
These videos are for vehicle knowledge. Top Gear is for entertainment. Not a whole lot of used regular guy vehicle reviews on Top Gear that I can recall.
Mr. Wizard is honest and straight up looking out for his customer. Rare and obviously so awesome. Wish Omega had multiple shops because everyone would flock to his business..
2 things that would be nice for us with the 5.4 3V to know. 1. How many miles it has on it. 2. What is the probable cause of the failure and what we can do to help avoid getting in this situation. I know regular oil changes.......but more detail. Oil you like for this engine? Change interval you recommend with that oil? Any other preventative maintenance tips or hints for this engine? By the way, I love the interaction between you and Tyler! He's my number one RUclips channel and your climbing that latter fast. Love your content!
An independent mechanic in my area (Alberta) recommends replacing the timing chain tensioners as PM, every 100,000 km (60,000 mi). Expensive, yes, but cheaper than…you know.
@@shiftfocus1 The core issue with the 5.4 3v is sludge buildup, not the timing chain tensioners. Doing 3000 mile oil + filter changes is how you prevent sludge buildup, which is what'll kill the engine.
@@bill_clinton697 I agree, Im a mechanic with 25 years experience. I would not be doing tensioners ever 60K. I would be doing frequent oil changes with quality synthetic oil . No longer than 5K miles,in between oil changes. Most failures happen when people dont change their oil, or only do it when they remember.
WIZ,HELLO,there are ohr FORD MECHANICS,where is how I realised the 3 valve engine , car do NOT have his thank old,but I only n a sntheitic oil,jus a 3,5 v6,6spd auto, FORD TAURUS, 2013,ONLY 36 K, 3 OL CHANGES NOW, THANKS,,,,,,🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have the ‘07 with a 115k miles. I change the oil every 3k miles or 6 months religiously. But I can’t say I trust it won’t break down on me after hearing all the issues these particular engines are known for…. I love my F150 anyhow and keeping it.
I had a 5.4 that I put a lot of miles on, 350k Kms. No issue. Sold it to a buddy to use as a farm truck. Used and abused no issues. He sold it to a neighbor for a knock around ranch truck. No issues. When I had the truck 90% of the mileage was long highway trips, 7 hours plus. Did this keep the sludge away?
@@repairvehicle yes. 2008 but It does not have AFM in that year model and has more reliable 6 speed. 227K on the original drive train and I daily drive it to work.
@@memphistiger4647 From one Memphis Tiger(GTG!) to another that has an '06 Escalade ESV Platinum w/ 189K excellent miles...we got the last of the good GMs.
So @Car Wizard, you find yourself at the point where you have a great foundation of a 04-09 F150 with good bones but the Triton has croaked. Rather than dropping another 3 valve in it, is there a better crate motor solution such as a 460 V8 or even the 6.8 V-10 or some other offering ? Would love to know your thoughts.
Honesty and Integrity is rare, some shops still don't get that, once you find that shop or mechanic that has that ethos, your more than likely to stick with them for a long time, I would fixed that truck , 7000 grand new powertrain pretty much a new truck with a better engine, I applaud your honesty and ethos Wizard, look forward hearing the truck when it's done.
Just our of curiosity, what in these motors causes them to fail so frequently? And what do the motors from Power Train Products improve on or fix so that their replacement motors don't fail?
Here it's explained: ruclips.net/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/видео.html&ab_channel=CarWizard It's a matter of oil passage too small. You MUST change oil frequently on these.
@@mayshack the mechanic at fordtechmakeyouloco RUclips breaks it all down. Mostly it looses oil pressure and it has defective valve rockers. But Wizzard is right here.
Just had my 2016 Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi torn apart due to a failed lifter and subsequent cam damage. $5000 later, I’m thinking it would have been a good video to share given it’s a know issue. Perhaps the Wizard could do one of those.
@@repairvehicle Usually 6,500-7,500 miles between changes which is more frequent than the oil indicator or manual calls out. Just rolled past 124,000 miles when I started to get the misfire on cylinder 3.
@Grant Adamson that's your problem long oil change intervals. Full synthetic oil under normal highway driving cannot last longer than 5k miles max. Car manufacturers know this bu would not tell you. They know, they will make more money either in new vehicles purchase or repaired, because customers will be back shortly. If you tell them to change oil every 3k miles max with full synthetic, dealers will be bankrupt. I have done video about customer running 3.6 v6 ram engine for over 500k miles without engine repairs. But oil changes were done every 2 weeks, 5k miles full synthetic highway driving and no towing.
Hey Wizzy you may or may not have read my past comments and like me you are a mechanic with standards and morals, KEEP IT UP we mechanics get a bad rap because of the cowboys and rip off merchants that are out there, these days I do it as a sideline and for a few extra bucks, I get so many customers that come to me for simple repairs and I tell them if you go elsewhere you may get the job cheaper and the response is always the same "I trust you and know it will be done right", you can't beat that.
Always transparent and honest, I really really like the car wizard. The follow up to this video should mention what improvements does the company make that makes this engine miles more reliable than the original one.
5.4s are not for people that think they can push oil changes 30K miles. The 09-10 5.4 3Vs (last gen 5.4) are good engines, but you have to stay on top of maintenance 100%.
You see a lot of these and 3.6 cars at Dollar Bill's Easy Auto. The thing I see most is northeastern rust belt stuff making it's way south rather than getting scrapped. Even the big guys do it. It's easier than ever to get ripped off. Thanks for your honesty, Car
180k+ miles on our '08 Expy. Nothing wrong with it. Nothing wrong with this engine. It's all about proper care so I'm really not buying in to the drama.
he continues to make videos about this eventhough another youtuber said this was fixable with a high output oil pump without replacing the engine, and he is an ex ford tech and does work on ford vehicles out of his own garage. i guess it pays the bills
A lot of parts from the factory are superseded (updated) from the factory, so these older vehicles can be built better than new, so as long as the body, and frame are rot free. Screw paying 60K for a new vehicle with unknow problems that will develop in time. I just dumped a small fortune rebuilding/restoring my '06 Escape. Lucky for me, I am able to do my own repairs and I prefer to use factory parts when available. Wizard, you are 100% correct in this video and are very honest. In the long run you are saving your customers A LOT of money down the road. Hopefully, lesson learned from the new client.
I have a 2003 with the 2v. So far so good only about 135.000. With truck prices being what they are and this truck having sentimental value I want to know if the $7000 is a real price? I know estimate and things come up. But In this market it’s the right choice for me when the time comes. I love your channel.
When Ford introduced this engine every Ford fan said its best engine ever made, better than competitors. Now, same Ford fans hate this engine, same thing is about 7.3 gas, just give a time. There's already issues with 7.3 gas.
I applaud you for doing the job the right way. No one likes to shell out a lot of money for car repairs but when its done properly like you do…well then its a little bit easier to take. Bravo!
I've had mechanics who wouldn't do any work that wasn't authorized. In a way, they were great, but in another way, I would rather get my shit diagnosed and taken care of at the same time. Anyone who would get pissy about a bill coming from Omega doesn't understand quality work. Do you want to come back next week, get charged more labour, just to get done what was recommended in the first place? Common sense, folks! And, the F-Type behind you... Thanks for another great episode, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
2 valve heads will go right on the original 3 valve block with no issues. you don’t have to replace the entire engine if you want to go this route. yes, it will need tuned.
It's doable, I'm not familiar with which sensors will plug directly in and which will need to be re-wired but a tune is definitely necessary. I'd rather run the 3V heads with lockouts on the cams (disables the variable timing) and just tune from there.
@@jwelchon2416 For sure, you lose some torque at lower RPMs but the tune makes up for a little of it. This way you can keep the engine and it can be done about as easily as a phaser swap. The 3V heads flow really well, the only downfall once you get the lockouts done is the spark plugs still take a special procedure to replace.
Yep lol. I bought an 05 f150 thinking a triton was just one type of engine. My previous truck was the 2v motor and I thought hey that one was still going strong at 275,000 I'll just get another one...... That was when I learned what a 3v was lol. Needless to say I watched all of fordtechmaluloco channel and did a complete timing job on it. It now has 214,000 miles on it and I'm debating on what to do when this motor goes. With today's prices I would be financially ahead if I swapped it out. Like you said the rest of the truck is great! It's just that motor is very unforgiving if you don't change the oil regularly.
My dad had a 98 F-150 5.4 triton and LOVED it, the thing chewed up spark plugs and coil packs like crazy, but he was a mechanic and didn’t care, always kept a few spares laying around in anticipation for when it would lose a cylinder 😂 I bought an 06 F150 with a Triton… started slapping and clicking like crazy winning a couple months, got rid of it and never looked back
What kills these engines is the small oil passages they used, once that sludge gets in there it reduces the oil the top end gets until lit fails. Doesn’t matter how many times you replace it it’s just going to fail again because the issue isn’t in the top end it’s the block. Can be avoided with regular oil changes with high quality oil but these are work trucks not sports cars, they shouldn’t need that level of maintenance.
@@geraldchapman6865 "...they shouldn't need that level of maintenance." I 100% agree! Unfortunately, that's where Toyota beat Ford. They're much more tolerant of owners doing just basic level of maintenance.
Yup and too complicated along with trying to squeeze every mpg and cost cutting measures as possible (like the tiny oil passages) , where as if they went with larger oil passages they would of had to strengthen the block more and use more strong metal and that costs more. Like Ford and the pinto with the gas tank death debacle. THEY KNEW it would leak and pour like crazy after a accident but to retool them at the time was multi millions so they left them as is (Even exec notes came to light saying they wouldn’t put there family members near a pinto,sad)and lost way more then they would of retooling and doing it right. They just never learn. Like Chrysler and there 2.7L in the fleet chargers and optional engine in Canada, it’s JUNK and was known to be junk many years before they continued to use it due to the small Passages getting gunked and clogged thus oil starving the engine and seizing it. Same with ppl who changed there oil/used high quality synthetic oil every 2-4K miles STILL had the oil issues.
@@B0xlife1 yup! Cost cutting is what killed Ford, Chrysler, and GM. Everyone in Detroit (and the Midwest) blamed the Japanese, but it was really the US automakers to blame.
Had this exact engine in my 2009 F-150 and little did I know while owning it how bad of an engine it was. Luckily I drove it for 120,000 miles from new and sold it a few years ago with no problems. Then I stumbled upon your videos about a year after selling it and was made aware of how bad that engine was. I feel very lucky to have gotten about 10 years and 120,000 miles out of it without any issues.
The 09-10 5.4 3v was a lot more reliable but most issues stem from lack of maintenance to the engine. Whether people like it or not the 5.4 is a high maintenance engine, I have an 09 with 113xxx miles no issues at all I always do oil changes at 5k with motor craft filter.
I’m the type of person that doesn’t want to take my car to the shop because the Shop already has tons of vehicles to repair. Why make the load worse than it already is? Thank You Toyota!
Hi Car Wizard, Let me start with saying I enjoy watching your channel. I have an 07 f150 with the 5.4 3-valve that currently has 231k miles. I have now owned it for 2 years and have put on about 25,000 miles. The truck came with all service records since it was new and the engine oil has been well maintained. It still has the original engine & transmission including original timing components. I think with the right owner, these engines can prove to be mostly reliable. It does however require someone who cares and actually does scheduled maintenance and doesn't leave things unattended for months on end. I think you have stated this with some of your other videos about the 3-valve triton but I REALLY think it is understated that these engines require you to take care of them. Just like in this example of the f150 in your video, it will inevitably give you problems if you don't properly maintain the oil. With that said I have been extremely happy with my truck and I have no doubt with my caring approach on maintenance with it, that my truck will continue to perform and not cause me problems for many more miles to come. Thanks!
Sludge? Looks like the inside of a Mitsubishi 2.7 engine. I bought a replacement 4.7 V8 for my wife's 2003 Durango from Powertrain Products.. Never got to see the value of the new motor. She wrecked the car after 1500 miles with the new engine.
Ouch! Yeah, those 99-04 4.7s would blow head gaskets with just moderate heat, plus the coolant intrusion. Later ones in the '06-08 Ram, Durango, and Aspens were good tho with the improved head design. Powertraim Products 4.7s are good! A couple of guys in our Jeep community replaced their WJs with them.
I'd love to ask the car wizard one question about my truck. 2000 Sierra 5.3 motor rear main seal leak not pouring out just minor. Already put 12-14 k in repairs I'm thinking of doing it my question is would bluedevil work to reseal it or not I'm at almost 200 k miles no oil burning issues or any issues engine wise.
Thank you car wizard. I went through that with a Ford dealer after having the transmission out seven weeks later at $20 seal went out. They wanted another $600. I just paid to have it towed home and fixed it myself. They tried to tell me the new fluid causes seals to fail 🤨.
He should replace the radiator. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango and the engine had to be rebuilt I was required to install a new radiator in order for the engine warranty to be honored in case of engine issues. Same with other parts. No new parts, no engine warranty.
I learned the wisdom of your thinking back in the 80s. I worked for a company with about 25 vans on the road. Mechanic, one owner and myself got very efficient at what we called big tuneups. Once the other owner wanted to cheap out, we acquiesced, he got stuck in Ohio (we were in NJ). Funny thing, he stopped complaining about the F600 wrecker we’d picked up cheap too.
It's not always an economic question. This customer advised that this is his father's truck and wanted to restore it back to working condition. You can't put a price on love or sentimental value.
I can understand the sentimental value if it was a ‘67 Impala convertible like the one in the Chevy commercial over Christmas….. a car like that is totally worth pouring more money into it than it may be worth after it’s restored because they just don’t make them anymore. But an ‘05 F150 is a dime a dozen and he could buy another one in the same color in working order.
Hey let's add wiring harness and electrical issues to an already expensive swap, right? That LS engine is not going to be plug and play, and it's not going to talk to those Ford electronics.
@@atx-cvpi_99 do they have the same sludging issues though? I have looked it up and haven't found any reports of the Australian equivalent having the same issues???
From the West to the East Omega is truly the best I personally wish gentlemen like Dave or Jonny would be in charge of testing new mechanics before they get their license.
Glad you do this properly., I'd trust you to work on my cars, and that's saying a lot, because there are only maybe a half dozen people including you on this Earth I'd trust to work on my cars. So many people don't do this right, a friend of mine got a early 2000's Honda Odyssey for his grandparents back around 2016 after their 80's Dodge Caravan bit the dust. The Odyssey had a new engine and transmission put in before it was traded into the dealership my buddy got it from. I'm no mechanic, but I have enough mechanical inclination to know immediately noticed a belt noise, and more specifically, that while the engine had clearly just been replaced, the old power steering lines were leaking, they'd reused the old alternator which was making a noise, power steering pump (also noisy), the belt had dry rot cracks, and something, I believe an idler pulley was making a horrid noise. Add that to the fact that the brake rotors were grooved like records, the tires were from I think 2008 (8 years old at the time, still okay tread but OLD!), and the van had a few minor issues like the radio didn't work, I was able to get some money off the dealer asking price for my friend, more than the total cost of the repairs certainly. We did most of the work ourselves, I still hate that van to this day, it was out for blood! Truthfully I think the dealership lowballed the hell out of the people that traded it in and were expecting to ask high, and sell for at least somewhat of a profit. I can understand that, but if someone came along and paid what they were asking for it? Man, they might as well have been committing robbery at that point.
The story here is. Don't take your 5.4 to him he will sell you a motor. Always new oil pump with (OEM) phaser replacements if yours is knocking (chattering or codes) off idle. If its only knocking at hot idle then its just the locking pin in the phaser that locks the phaser in base position at idle. That pin gets loose/worn and its mainly just noise at hot idle. 90% of these are absolutely fixable and are fixed daily although that one is done at this point but i also think i see Dorman phasers in there lol.
Yeah I’ve got an 06 king ranch it just rolled over 335k miles, this was an oilfield truck for years hence the high miles, and yes the motor ticks like a time X. I’m gonna drop a reman motor in from powertrain products soon, I’ve rebuilt the entire front end and rebuilt the transmission. Really enjoy your videos thanks so much.
You absolutely do it the right way, all auto technicians should follow your example. It's amazing how many people don't do the proper maintenance and end up spending a fortune in the end. Oil is cheep.
I learned to be a believer in, “While we are in that part of the engine, we should fix this preventively”. 1980 Porsche 911SC airbox blew. Engine out so we replaced the crappy rubber clutch and oil leaks. Lots of money saved by not pulling the engine multiple times!
You’re a stand up and transparent guy wizard. You do your job correctly, and I applaud you for that.
Isn't it sad that mechanics like the wizard are so rare that we have to congratulate them?
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow unfortunately yes. There’s alot of great auto mechanics out there but there’s also a lot of terrible ones too. Dealerships too.
@@CadgerChristmasLightShow so incredibly rare these days. No wonder people ship their cars many states away from Kansas just for service. I believe that Jag F-Type had a Louisiana plate, for instance.
No b.s. with the Wizard.
@@hellkitty1014 Here recently he worked on a Mini Cooper S with California license plates
I agree quit messing around with the phasers and use the photon torpedos!
Beam me up Scotty!
Lol Fasho
Dammit Jim it's dead!
He sounds like a frustrated old woman!!!
the phasers were not set to stun. They were supposed to be set to stun. Get yourself hurt, son.
My 2005 F150 Lariat has zero sludge at 227k miles. Change the oil every 4-5k miles with Penzoil synthetic. I agree, if it's sludged, time for a rebuilt motor.
Keep taking good care of that engine and it should see 300-400k, I've seen them with more but you can reliably expect that kind of mileage out of a 3V that's been cared for and driven properly.
thanks for posting, taking care of an engine is important and changing the oil with good oil at 5000 miles is really important. You probably don’t put the pedal down when Engine is cold, -10 C
i respectfully disagree. its worth a shot to do short oil changes and it may clean up
Oils cheaper than an engine. It might be excessive but I change my oil every 2k or every 6 months since it’s not my every day ride.
@@jamesyarbrough4777 this works on some engines. I had an 02 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4l which i did that to and it didnt exactly help. Just pulled the valve cover and upper oil pan, scraped it out, much better afterwards.
As for motor flushes, the technician really should know the design of it.
When I first began working as an automotive technician, I was at a Kia dealership. I remember we would sell motor flushes on 3.8L Kia Sorentos (I think that was also in the Sedona back then,) but not on any other engine. The 3.8L was, apparently, the only one without these little mesh oil passage filters. The other engines, at that time, had at least one per bank in the block, only accessible with the head removed.
Anyways, know the engine. Motor flushes are gambles.
Hah I don't even know why I went off on flushes when you said more frequent oil changes.
Sometimes It Is Not About Price, It's About Getting The Correct Work Done 😎
So true!!!!
Damn right. Paying more is better then paying for nothing.
Pay once, cry once.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 lol you said it
I don’t know how he does it. I would be the type to throw in the towel.
You have to be careful when buying a car in today's market. I was helping my sister get a car about 2 months ago and she wanted this camaro from a chevy dealer. It only had 45k miles on it. I was looking it over and the engine, transmission, and other things were replaced with junkyard parts. I crawled under it and you could see the heat tabs on the engine block and there was writing on the transmission and ECU. I told my sister no way. If this is what's on a major dealership lot, can't imagine what's on an independent lot.
I think the car was in a flood. The strut mounts and bolts everywhere were really rusty. and the trunk smelled like a swamp.
Can't believe some of the junk the main dealers are selling these days. Stuff they would never have touched before but they are desperate for sales, so almost everything they get they sell.
Used to, about 30% of trade-ins would go instantly to the auction block with another 20% going after not being sold in a week's time. Now everything is being kept on lot after a really quick maintenance tour just due to the fact that even trash is selling 20% higher now than it did this time last year and 30% over March 2020 prices.
As long as people keep paying a premium for any old garbage, stealerships will keep selling trash.
It’s illegal for anyone to sell salvage or flooded cars, these dealerships need to be held accountable, very few of dealerships are honest and managed well, but a lot are run by scammers and crooks.
You were looking into a used camaro that’s what you get.
blame insurance companies too. they only use used parts. the car may have hit road debris on the freeway busting the oil pans and insurance destroyed the cars integrity
You are right on the money! It kills me to see customers wasting money on timing chains and so on. Some of them you can't tell them that they are throwing away money, some blame you
Yup, I wouldn't have put anything on that nasty engine... all sludged up? No way, drive it till it dies or get a new engine. Sludge dosen't just happen, that's a pretty severe lack of care.
I've worked at a dealership most of my working life in parts and always work with the technician (where possible) to come up with a comprehensive parts list. Then the advisor comes back and says "is this right? how is it that much?" To which I reply "they may not need all of that but if you give them a number and we come in above it we're the bad guys, nobody is going to complain about coming in below budget if they don't end up needing all of that." How well that gets conveyed to the customer seems to determine whether we get the job or if they take it to the "I know a guy who can do it cheaper" who inevitably messes it up.
@@406Steven and when that cheaper person messes it up, many of my customers do end up returning with apologies. They pay what we ask. We fix it. They're on the road and haven't come back for those issues.
It comes down to education on the subject. Man... I could launch into what should be taught in schools... Just use your imagination 😑
@@danielkoontz6732 They come back MAD when the other shop messes up. My experience is that you have to document absolutely everything as thoroughly as possible. We just had a lube shop toast a 6.6 gasser in a newer Chevy by running it without oil. Busted out the cell phone and took video of it going on the rack, draining the pan, pouring the oil they out in afterwards through a coffee filter, and then cutting apart the oil filter. The customer and the manager of the lube shop ended up in our shop talking about it and the customer had to be restrained from assaulting the manager. All over "saving" a few $ on an oil change.
Yeah you can get away with replacing timing chains and phasers but you have to make sure that's actually what it needs and not just throw parts at it with crossed fingers.
This is why the Wizard is so respected, and he helps to restore my trust in mechanics after being burned a few times. Many would cut corners and STILL charge the $7K. Wizard is thorough, and being thorough is what keeps you on the road many miles and years down the line.
It is ALWAYS in the details!
I love that the wizard cares more about the customers rather than pure profit. If every business was like this the world would be a better place.
Oh trust me. He's making great profit. Charging between 75-135 an hour for labor. Pays emoloyee mechanic 20-22 an hour.....even at low end that's 4 times the amount in just labor profit. He's just fine ha
Totally did the engine replacement after my father in law bought the truck. He died shortly after. Glad he never knew the engine was junk. We replaced it so we could drive it for sentimental reasons
I have a 2009 version of this engine. 146,000 miles with no issues. I change the oil religiously. I honestly love the power band of this engine and what those variable timing phasers do to to make usable torque at the right rpms. I tow a 6100lb camper and can keep up with traffic just fine on the hills with it's 310 hp.
It's not a bad engine like it's portrayed to be. You see them still driving around fine with 250k miles.
@@caryhuffii7224 Like most Fords they get a bad rep because people treated their car like crap then when it eventually breaks down it's the vehicles fault. Take good care of them and they hold up a very long time.
Thinking of buying a 10' with 212K :lol:. Runs very good.
@@alb12345672 I'd save up for an engine, just in case. The front 4WD hubs may or may not need anything, otherwise just change all the fluids and enjoy.
@@406Steven Yeah, 5K for an Expedition EL, even if it needs a motor, still a deal.
We've learned this some years ago, now we are very upfront with the customer about what is wrong and why we're recommending a new engine... when they ask for cheaper options I say "the best I can do is put the pin back in the grenade".
I learned the hard way with a Kia Optima. I kept paying to have the cheaper options done only to lose all that money ($2400 over 5 months) when the engine blew up anyway.
I now know how to diagnose most electrical/mechanical things on a car, even if I am not physically able to do the work myself.
I love this response Pardon me if I Biden"ize" that line Thanks
@@AdamIsUrqed the kia/hyundai engines like to blow up
@@jayrichards3672 And the Trump version would be the engine did not lock up. It as RIGGED or there was fraud.
I've been a parts guy for the last 23 years. A couple of years after the three valves came out and my shops were busting plugs off in them. Then a couple years after that the phasers started failing.So now I pretty much refuse to sell the phasers off the shelf unless I get them from the dealer. But some shops insist on doing them. So I tell them there will be no labor claim on them when they fail or the engine goes to crap. I have some shops that heed that advise and some that don't (buy here pay here lots). Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for explaining all that is required for the engine replacement. When you did your first video, I looked up the cost of the 3 valve 5.4L on PowerTrain products. Truly, you showed today swapping an engine is not just the cost of the engine.
The 5.4’s are not bad at all if you take care of them ! I’ve seen many with 400K plus miles on them ! I’ve owned two ! No issues at all!
I quizzed several of the techs at my dealer on how to ensure they don’t fail. To a man they all said: change the oil on schedule.
I have the 4.6 3v in my mustang. For years now after every oil change my cars engine will make a random tapping noise at random intervals like someone is typing but goes away after a few minutes. Always right after the oil change. Other than that the engine still runs good
I also think why a lot of these 5.4s are failing is because people always want to use thicker oil. These engines need 5w 20 not 10w 30 and that thicker oil generates more heat and more friction causing the sludge.
The 5.4 2v (used on the 10th generation "Jelly Bean" Ford trucks), the 5.4 4v (used in various Lincolns), and any variant of the 4.6 (2v and 3v) are great engines. The 5.4 3v is a bad engine unless you do religious 3000 mile oil changes. The 5.4 3v is known to sludge up and the sludge is what kills the engine.
If you owned the truck since day 1 and do 3000 mile oil changes, its likely your 5.4 3v will last a long time. If the engine is idled like a police car, change it based on hours, which is typically 300 hours per change.
@@Kevinb1821 When you drain the oil, the oil in the pick up drains out and lets air in. When you fill the oil back up it won't displace the air in the tube because the air would need to move down which it can't. So when you first start it there is a quick moment where the air is being pushed out of the pump and galleys and no oil is present. The best thing you can do is pull the fuse for the fuel pump and let the starter roll the engine over for about 10 seconds so it pushed the air out under no load and very low RPM. I absolutely love the 3v engines and have had no major issues out of any of them.
Love your videos!!!!!.....The price of big trucks are about to plummet when gas gets $6-$7 a gallon. My chevy long bed has a 35 gallon tank @ $7 that would be $245 for a full tank. Let that sink in...Just crazy.
Have fun with that
"To every season, there is a season." This happened in the 1970's, then again in the 2000's. Prices will drop on those vehicles. But, our economy will not run without the gas guzzlers ever. Yeah it sucks to fill my F150s 36 gallon tank. Luckily I work from home and use it as a run-about vehicle. People will still buy them, and manufactures will still build them.
@@leechburglights yeah I agree. I am so fortunate I don't have to depend on that vehicle, but I live in a rule agriculture Community where a lot of people do and it's going to hurt.
@@jasontodd5953 we tried to tell people a year ago this was going to happen. 80 million people didn’t listen and now like the Vice President said last week “you get what you voted for”
your right jason and the car demand will rise
Thank you for all of your good informative videos
I think I speak for most consumers when I say that at the end of the day all the customer wants is to be treated fair and honest, with no BS or unnecessary up selling.
I would like to find a mechanic in my area that will be as thorough and honest as you are.
I hope there are shop owners out there who watch your content and understand that if they treat their customers fairly they will build a loyal long-term clientele base.
Unfortunately there are a lot of dishonest shoemaker mechanics out there who charge good money for subpar work.
That sludge didn't appear out of thin air, or come from an engine design flaw. That was from lack of routine oil changes. Then that sludge carried over into the oil passages blocking the oil flow. The phasers going bad was just a symptom of the neglect. I can only imagine how bad the crank, rod and cam bearings must've looked. Once the cam phasers started clacking that was the death knell of the engine.
It's simple folks: DO. THE. MAINTENANCE! If the previous owner changed the oil on a consistent and regular basis this might have been avoided.
That's what people don't get. MAINTENANCE! These tritons will last hundreds of thousands of miles IF they are taken care of. Neglect any piece of equipment and you will get premature failure.
Changing your oil every 3000 miles or at least once per year prevents a lot of problems on many many cars.
@@Flies2FLL I don't put many miles on my 05 f150 much any more but I change the oil every spring and fall
Yes and no. Yes they need maintenance, but they need it more than what the book recommends. They can't go 4.5-5k like the book says. And if they're short tripped a lot, you can have issues at 3k even. And 30 weight is a no go on them as well. So you're correct that it can be prevented, but you can't fault a person by following the manufactures recommendations. Since the v10s without the phasers can go the normal oci without issue.
@@_r.t- I drive a '14 Cayman S and I change it yearly. It only sees about 2000-2500 miles per year, so it comes out just barely brown. I still say it is cheap insurance! Thanx.
7:50 No Wizard that is not what happens in a shop that is what happens in YOUR shop. Not all mechanics are created equal and you sir are the benchmark to which all others are measured in my eyes.
I really wish a mechanic like you was in my area. The value of good, honest mechanics is so important!
Really you want one that’ll charge you $300 to $500 an hour!!
LMAO that the customer is spending $7,000 on an engine swap, then they're going to hit the roof over another $20? Reminds me of famous story about the rich guy that spent $800 on a dinner party, then goes on a rant and rave against the restaurant because they declined his $5 off expired coupon. Thanks for the great video Wizard.
For those of you not familiar with the concept of a core charge, certain auto parts are rebuildable IF you turn in the original part UNMOLESTED. The seller selling you the new part tacks on an additional fee called a core charge. You get that core charge money BACK if the old, returned part is returned in original condition (returned the way you found it when you removed it from the vehicle), not disassembled, modified, etc. The part seller evaluates the returned part and if it meets the requirements for returning the part, you get that back. But if they get it back, and it's been modified, disassembled, damaged beyond their ability to rebuild, etc. you don't get that core charge refunded.
Amazing that's all I could say I have work for several shops and trust me what you're saying will blow them away thank you for being a honest wizard 🙏🙏🙏
That crud inside the engine looks like the results of trying to get 10k miles out of an oil change.
I've got 300k miles on my 96 k1500 5.7 - bo sludge under the valve covers on the lifter valley area. I changed the oil every 3k miles and uses marvel mystery oil every so often with a 500 mile change. No engine flush !
Still got my 04 f150 with the 5.4. The truck has never failed me. 200k+ and still going strong. I'm meticulous with the oil changes and have one of the best mechanics for the 5.4 3v 10 minutes from my house. Awesome truck for me!
Wheres ur mechanic??
Got an 07 F150 with the 5.4L too. Has 175k miles on it. Actually just did a 1300 road trip this week. Never left me stranded. The key is to change the oil every 3k-5k miles and you will be fine.
The Car Wizzard is a true professional great video !!!!!!
Thanks for the info, I've owned 2 older models (99 &01) with 5.4s and loved them . I'm new to your channel and was watching some of your older stuff and saw your video on newer 5.4 motors. You probably saved me a lot of money because I'm looking for a little newer truck and I was actually seeking out a 5.4
Now if it's not a 4.6 I immediately move on
Makes sense to me, especially with those parts which will wear out and might need a lot of work when it's time to change them. Do it right or don't do it at all. (Except when you're Hoovie 😊)
This was my Dad's favorite quote. Do it right or don't do it at all.
3V is not a good engine. BUT once you understand them they are fairly straightforward to work on.
I just worked on one yesterday. Engine had a loud top end tick, and they kept driving it. Popped off the pass side valve cover and one of the rocker arms had locked up and ate into the cam. IF it would have been caught sooner, just a rocker arm. Fix: I used the cheese wedge, pulled the phaser, and cam. Replaced the cam, all rockers on pass bank, cam bolt, and put it all back together with a new valve cover gasket. $350 in parts and 2.5 hours I was in and out. Engine runs like a clock now and sounds great. Maybe a bandaid fix, but its good for now.
Right on
I wish your shop was closer to me because we could use an honest mechanic shop in South Alabama! all the ones down here love to lie just to take the customers money and it makes me sick that a good mechanic shop is hard to find around here...I have been doing my own work on my vehicles because I am tired of getting ripped off..Take for example in 2010 my moms 2004 Kia Optima she bought new broke the timing belt and i tried telling them it needed to be done but they kept putting it off until it broke and they sent it to the Kia dealer where they bought it and the dealer replaced the belt and told them it was fine..A few months later the motor locked up and she hired a local mechanic to swap the motor and he ruined it so bad that the car ended up being scrapped and ever since then I have yet to find an honest mechanic down here...why is it so hard to find an honest mechanic like the Wizard? anyways Wizard thanks for being an honest stand up guy looking out for the customers and I am sure the owner of this truck will get many years use out of that truck thanks to you and your guys hard work..good job Mr. Wizard!
Wow, I do believe that some 5.4's are fine candidates for repair*, but anyone seeing that amount of sludge should have known to not bother with new phasers! I wonder are those cheap aftermarket phasers too?
* - Properly fixed with uprated OEM parts only, phasers, chains, guides and tensioners, followers, seals, solenoids, etc.
Definitely a new motor here (and before the phasers) was the call.
if I spend $7k on a new engine I'd spend little extra replace as many older replaceable parts. Also improves gas mileage microscopically just a factor for today's gas prices
If I spent $7000 on an engine replacement that either better be a diesel or a ridiculously clean truck.
@@nickd.7267 good luck with diesel prices
@@nickd.7267 it's 100% not worth it which he went over. If prices were normal things things wouldn't get done, it would be off to the junk yard. If you had a clean truck you loved, putting a new engine and Trans basically gives you a new truck with an old style.
@@WCGwkf With an engine known for vulnerability more than reliability. With or without white glove maintenance. Put a 2 valve in that shit.
Obviously this engine had other issues with all the sludge buildup but I'd like to point something out here - those phasers and timing chains are definitely not OEM Ford parts (notice the chain doesn't even sit fully on the teeth of the phaser here). If you are doing work on your 3v ONLY use OEM parts, not only are they the best quality parts for this job but they have actually revised and updated designs for the chains, phasers, roller followers, and even the tensioners. Its been very well documented that using other branded parts _cough_ *dorman* _cough_ leads to premature failure on these timing jobs. The OEM stuff is more expensive yes, but it's worth it. And the kit comes in a cool Ford Performance box, too. :)
I appreciate your integrity and your willingness to educate the motoring public. Years ago, I had a self-employed "Wizard", just like you. Sadly, 3 heart-attcks later, he had to retire. You two "Wizards" demonstrated that people of honour can still make a decent living in to-day's environment. Greatly enjoy your and Mrs. Wizard's videos.
Wizard I did a sure fire way to increase the reliability of my Ram 1500 for me during my ownership. It's called riding the commuter bus. Likely what this 5.4 3 valve owner should have did instead of mileing the thing out with long oil changes. 3k mile oil change intervals keeps these 3 valves happy Wizard. Almost no one does that mind you.
How much does that oil change cost you? Isn't that a huge cost factor, I mean assuming 100$ for oil means 1000$ every 30.000 miles or 5000$ at 150k miles. Just wondering if driving the crap out of the engine and replace it when it's done would be financially more viable. Just put the money for the saved oil change in a basket and you'll save up the money in no time.
@@computercrack No the engine replacement is over 10k dollars. What you're saying is stupid and insane. Oil is cheap. It's not a corolla engine.
@@peiguy1982 according to wizard it's a 7k $ job. And here in Europe (good synthetic) oil is very expensive plus the labor involved and the time wasted of going to the shop, so all in all changing oil at that rate sounds insane to me. My (Diesel) engine on my old car had oil changes every 37.500 miles (specified by the manufacturer) and ran like new when I sold it with 180k miles on it. Of course if it's just a 20$ job in the US why not. I had like 5 oil changes in 10 years at let's say 150$ each that would be 750$ all in all. Changing every 3k miles would have been 12times that so 9000$. But sorry for asking, have a nice day :)
@@computercrack Computercrack….HMMM….you sound like a bean counter. You are probably not even mechanical inclined. What you did not factor, is that the engine would be running like crap or eventually FAIL before your calculated END GAME SAVINGS! Goodness dude, I mean REALLY????
@@computercrack I live in Canada things are expensive here too. And if you tried that mileage on a diesel here with the emissions system here it would be big trouble. A 20k km oil change on my last vehicle a Ram 1500 ecodiesel would have been a 20k engine job for sure. Yes it's over 20k dollars. Changing the oil on that was 275 at the dealer. Obviously your diesel was pre-emissions. I just don't think you will have too many mechanically minded people agreeing that going long on oil changes will save you money in the end. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. 7k USD is about 10k Canadian.
When I was a kid back in the sixties I helped my dad overhaul the 283 in a '62 Chevy Bel air he had purchased. I literally used a spoon and butter knife to scrape off the half inch of crud off the lifter area on the heads and lifter valley. Fun memories
With that amount of sludge in that engine, I'd say the owner skipped on oil changes, and that may well be the cause of the engines failure.
or used Quaker State...
@@ajdahun That's old news. Quaker State is worlds better now. Hopefully. 😅
Let's say an oil change cost $80. How many oil changes can you get done for #7,000? HOW does it save money to skimp on oil changes?
exactly! I can attribute every 5.4 3v failure I have seen to lack of maintenance!
except one reman engine from ford that dropped a valve within 5000kms
I can't wait to see how the brand new 3 valve runs! Definitely looking forward to the next video
I have a 2004 f150. 3v 5.4L. 140k miles. Owned it since new. Oil change EVERY 3000 miles. Not even a tick, rattle, or ping.
❤️
you changed oil to often unless you used it for work, but hopefully it makes it to 200k, there shouldn't be a problem with the engine at 140k.
@@HermannTheGreat ide much rather change the oil before it wears out than wear out components from worn out oil
My 2005 has 214,000 on it. I'm the third owner and I did have to change the timing chain tensioners at around 151,000ish. Other than that I just change oil regularly. and so far so good.
@@_r.t- Oil doesn't wear out before 10k miles, that's a myth that has been disproven through lab testing.
The Car Wizards has the coolest walk on RUclips! I'd love to see a continuous loop video of him just waddling around on his stubby little legs with Pantera's WALK as the background music!
What do you do with the radiator? Do you flush it or replace it? Those rusty hoses would mean there could be rust in the radiator. Thanks for the content it is great!
I replaced mine. And I also took the opportunity since the engine was out to backflush the heater cores to get the gunk out. Heater cores are just too hard to get to lol
@@Bill_Hartnett yes they are
The people who make Evaporust now make a similar product (Thermocure) for cooling systems, it cleans out rust deposits and suspends it in the water, which you then drain and flush a few times. I hear the cast iron winds up as-cast gray.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 Thank you.I was wondering the same thing and didn't know what to use as there's so many crap products mixed with good on the shelves.
I had my timing belt done on a 220 k mile sequoia. Told the mechanic to change the radiator and all belts and hoses. Flush the cooling system too.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to show us what to look for,and why, when we're looking to buy a vehicle.You never just say,"I hate this or that" without describing why and I appreciate it.I've actually warned my family and a few friends about the problem vehicles from your reviews.My nephew has a nice new Chevy truck he traded in his Ford for as it had the 5.4.
Having been bought up watching top gear in England I can say hand on heart these episodes are better. No smutty talk, no obvious scripts. These are more professional and informative. The wizard is a pleasure to watch and learn.
These videos are for vehicle knowledge. Top Gear is for entertainment. Not a whole lot of used regular guy vehicle reviews on Top Gear that I can recall.
Mr. Wizard is honest and straight up looking out for his customer. Rare and obviously so awesome. Wish Omega had multiple shops because everyone would flock to his business..
Lol! 5.4 three valve! The Wizards favourite!😂
Had one in my ‘05 Navigator….traded it in before it puked😬
2 things that would be nice for us with the 5.4 3V to know. 1. How many miles it has on it. 2. What is the probable cause of the failure and what we can do to help avoid getting in this situation. I know regular oil changes.......but more detail. Oil you like for this engine? Change interval you recommend with that oil? Any other preventative maintenance tips or hints for this engine? By the way, I love the interaction between you and Tyler! He's my number one RUclips channel and your climbing that latter fast. Love your content!
An independent mechanic in my area (Alberta) recommends replacing the timing chain tensioners as PM, every 100,000 km (60,000 mi). Expensive, yes, but cheaper than…you know.
@@shiftfocus1 The core issue with the 5.4 3v is sludge buildup, not the timing chain tensioners. Doing 3000 mile oil + filter changes is how you prevent sludge buildup, which is what'll kill the engine.
@@bill_clinton697 I agree, Im a mechanic with 25 years experience. I would not be doing tensioners ever 60K.
I would be doing frequent oil changes with quality synthetic oil .
No longer than 5K miles,in between oil changes.
Most failures happen when people dont change their oil, or only do it when they remember.
WIZ,HELLO,there are ohr FORD MECHANICS,where is how I realised the 3 valve engine , car do NOT have his thank old,but I only n a sntheitic oil,jus a 3,5 v6,6spd auto, FORD TAURUS, 2013,ONLY 36 K, 3 OL CHANGES NOW, THANKS,,,,,,🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have the ‘07 with a 115k miles.
I change the oil every 3k miles or 6 months religiously.
But I can’t say I trust it won’t break down on me after hearing all the issues these particular engines are known for….
I love my F150 anyhow and keeping it.
Have you done your sparkplugs yet?
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq
Yes, at 100K foils also.
Do not use anything but Motorcraft spark plugs or they will crack.
I had a 5.4 that I put a lot of miles on, 350k Kms. No issue. Sold it to a buddy to use as a farm truck. Used and abused no issues. He sold it to a neighbor for a knock around ranch truck. No issues. When I had the truck 90% of the mileage was long highway trips, 7 hours plus. Did this keep the sludge away?
5.4 is best engine when it comes making money, it always keeps shops and dealers in business.
Currently any GM 5.3 /6.2 with active fuel management as well as their 8 speed tranny can join the list.
@@memphistiger4647, are you gm vehicle owner?
@@repairvehicle yes. 2008 but It does not have AFM in that year model and has more reliable 6 speed. 227K on the original drive train and I daily drive it to work.
@@memphistiger4647 From one Memphis Tiger(GTG!) to another that has an '06 Escalade ESV Platinum w/ 189K excellent miles...we got the last of the good GMs.
@@hellkitty1014 what is your mpg with 6.0?
I wish Omega would be here in West Palm Beach area
It would nice to have incredible bloke like Dave in FL
So @Car Wizard, you find yourself at the point where you have a great foundation of a 04-09 F150 with good bones but the Triton has croaked. Rather than dropping another 3 valve in it, is there a better crate motor solution such as a 460 V8 or even the 6.8 V-10 or some other offering ? Would love to know your thoughts.
Me 2, I'd like to know
Honesty and Integrity is rare, some shops still don't get that, once you find that shop or mechanic that has that ethos, your more than likely to stick with them for a long time, I would fixed that truck , 7000 grand new powertrain pretty much a new truck with a better engine, I applaud your honesty and ethos Wizard, look forward hearing the truck when it's done.
Definitely wanting a part 2
Wow over 650k SUBS OMG....when I began watching this channel on my original RUclips you had like 8k subs. Congrats on your success, just amazing!!!
Just our of curiosity, what in these motors causes them to fail so frequently? And what do the motors from Power Train Products improve on or fix so that their replacement motors don't fail?
Here it's explained: ruclips.net/video/xcN_WcGr4BU/видео.html&ab_channel=CarWizard It's a matter of oil passage too small. You MUST change oil frequently on these.
Past episodes pointed out primarily failure to do oil changes every 3000 miles/5000km. the replacement will fail if not carefully maintained .
Sludge in the oil combined with neglected mantience
@@mayshack Following…also Go Noles
@@mayshack the mechanic at fordtechmakeyouloco RUclips breaks it all down. Mostly it looses oil pressure and it has defective valve rockers. But Wizzard is right here.
I wish all mechanics was this honest!!
Just had my 2016 Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi torn apart due to a failed lifter and subsequent cam damage. $5000 later, I’m thinking it would have been a good video to share given it’s a know issue. Perhaps the Wizard could do one of those.
How often were you changing oil?
happened to me too
@@repairvehicle Usually 6,500-7,500 miles between changes which is more frequent than the oil indicator or manual calls out. Just rolled past 124,000 miles when I started to get the misfire on cylinder 3.
@@repairvehicle you could change the oil in those hemis on schedule and they'd still fail. It was a design flaw.
@Grant Adamson that's your problem long oil change intervals. Full synthetic oil under normal highway driving cannot last longer than 5k miles max. Car manufacturers know this bu would not tell you. They know, they will make more money either in new vehicles purchase or repaired, because customers will be back shortly. If you tell them to change oil every 3k miles max with full synthetic, dealers will be bankrupt. I have done video about customer running 3.6 v6 ram engine for over 500k miles without engine repairs. But oil changes were done every 2 weeks, 5k miles full synthetic highway driving and no towing.
Hey Wizzy you may or may not have read my past comments and like me you are a mechanic with standards and morals, KEEP IT UP we mechanics get a bad rap because of the cowboys and rip off merchants that are out there, these days I do it as a sideline and for a few extra bucks, I get so many customers that come to me for simple repairs and I tell them if you go elsewhere you may get the job cheaper and the response is always the same "I trust you and know it will be done right", you can't beat that.
Unless there's a core charge, the old one would make a great anchor for the yacht!
Always transparent and honest, I really really like the car wizard.
The follow up to this video should mention what improvements does the company make that makes this engine miles more reliable than the original one.
5.4s are not for people that think they can push oil changes 30K miles.
The 09-10 5.4 3Vs (last gen 5.4) are good engines, but you have to stay on top of maintenance 100%.
You see a lot of these and 3.6 cars at Dollar Bill's Easy Auto. The thing I see most is northeastern rust belt stuff making it's way south rather than getting scrapped. Even the big guys do it. It's easier than ever to get ripped off. Thanks for your honesty, Car
180k+ miles on our '08 Expy. Nothing wrong with it. Nothing wrong with this engine. It's all about proper care so I'm really not buying in to the drama.
he continues to make videos about this eventhough another youtuber said this was fixable with a high output oil pump without replacing the engine, and he is an ex ford tech and does work on ford vehicles out of his own garage. i guess it pays the bills
A lot of parts from the factory are superseded (updated) from the factory, so these older vehicles can be built better than new, so as long as the body, and frame are rot free. Screw paying 60K for a new vehicle with unknow problems that will develop in time.
I just dumped a small fortune rebuilding/restoring my '06 Escape. Lucky for me, I am able to do my own repairs and I prefer to use factory parts when available.
Wizard, you are 100% correct in this video and are very honest. In the long run you are saving your customers A LOT of money down the road.
Hopefully, lesson learned from the new client.
This is the reason to never, ever buy any Ford vehicle with the 5.4 L 3-valve Triton V8 engine.
The 4.6L is solid though.
No wonder Ford Europe source their engines externally! Peugeot/Citroen for the diesel engines and Mazda for petrol engines.🙄
That engine failed due to lack of maintenance you can tell by the sludge, there are plenty of 5.4s 3v with 250k miles
I have a 2003 with the 2v. So far so good only about 135.000. With truck prices being what they are and this truck having sentimental value I want to know if the $7000 is a real price? I know estimate and things come up. But In this market it’s the right choice for me when the time comes. I love your channel.
When Ford introduced this engine every Ford fan said its best engine ever made, better than competitors. Now, same Ford fans hate this engine, same thing is about 7.3 gas, just give a time. There's already issues with 7.3 gas.
Well... the engine when new did perform well, it just doesn't age well because of a flawed design.
@@micglou Due to extended oil change interval too.
What's been happening with the 7.3 gas?
@@micglou that's his point. Not a good engine if it can't stand up to the test of time.
@@micglou looks like they never changed the oil an used cheap oil too...never had this with synthetic oil
I applaud you for doing the job the right way. No one likes to shell out a lot of money for car repairs but when its done properly like you do…well then its a little bit easier to take. Bravo!
Hopefully those parts can be recycled. Probably asked before, but would be interesting the price for this vs a crate engine swap to a 5L v-8 etc.
I've had mechanics who wouldn't do any work that wasn't authorized. In a way, they were great, but in another way, I would rather get my shit diagnosed and taken care of at the same time. Anyone who would get pissy about a bill coming from Omega doesn't understand quality work. Do you want to come back next week, get charged more labour, just to get done what was recommended in the first place? Common sense, folks!
And, the F-Type behind you...
Thanks for another great episode, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Is it possible to replace it with a 5.4 2 valve engine? I am guessing it would wig the electronics out.
2 valve heads will go right on the original 3 valve block with no issues. you don’t have to replace the entire engine if you want to go this route. yes, it will need tuned.
It's doable, I'm not familiar with which sensors will plug directly in and which will need to be re-wired but a tune is definitely necessary. I'd rather run the 3V heads with lockouts on the cams (disables the variable timing) and just tune from there.
@@406Steven I did not know that could be done. Yes, that would seem to be the thing to do.
@@jwelchon2416 For sure, you lose some torque at lower RPMs but the tune makes up for a little of it. This way you can keep the engine and it can be done about as easily as a phaser swap. The 3V heads flow really well, the only downfall once you get the lockouts done is the spark plugs still take a special procedure to replace.
the youtube automotive community is lucky to have you sir. greetings from greece , love your videos
That Engine Has Covid-19 😎
HAHALOLLOL
Yep lol. I bought an 05 f150 thinking a triton was just one type of engine. My previous truck was the 2v motor and I thought hey that one was still going strong at 275,000 I'll just get another one...... That was when I learned what a 3v was lol. Needless to say I watched all of fordtechmaluloco channel and did a complete timing job on it. It now has 214,000 miles on it and I'm debating on what to do when this motor goes. With today's prices I would be financially ahead if I swapped it out. Like you said the rest of the truck is great! It's just that motor is very unforgiving if you don't change the oil regularly.
I've also had to use the "blue tipped wrench" to get an O2 sensor out of an expedition. Lol! I'm gonna start calling it that 🤙
"It can't be tight if it's liquid!" lol
We call it the Chevy wrench lol
Gotta love the ole spicy wrench.
My dad had a 98 F-150 5.4 triton and LOVED it, the thing chewed up spark plugs and coil packs like crazy, but he was a mechanic and didn’t care, always kept a few spares laying around in anticipation for when it would lose a cylinder 😂 I bought an 06 F150 with a Triton… started slapping and clicking like crazy winning a couple months, got rid of it and never looked back
The bottom end of the 5.4 is pretty stout. Ford screwed up by making the top end/valve train too complicated.
What kills these engines is the small oil passages they used, once that sludge gets in there it reduces the oil the top end gets until lit fails. Doesn’t matter how many times you replace it it’s just going to fail again because the issue isn’t in the top end it’s the block. Can be avoided with regular oil changes with high quality oil but these are work trucks not sports cars, they shouldn’t need that level of maintenance.
@@geraldchapman6865 "...they shouldn't need that level of maintenance."
I 100% agree! Unfortunately, that's where Toyota beat Ford. They're much more tolerant of owners doing just basic level of maintenance.
Yup and too complicated along with trying to squeeze every mpg and cost cutting measures as possible (like the tiny oil passages) , where as if they went with larger oil passages they would of had to strengthen the block more and use more strong metal and that costs more.
Like Ford and the pinto with the gas tank death debacle. THEY KNEW it would leak and pour like crazy after a accident but to retool them at the time was multi millions so they left them as is (Even exec notes came to light saying they wouldn’t put there family members near a pinto,sad)and lost way more then they would of retooling and doing it right.
They just never learn.
Like Chrysler and there 2.7L in the fleet chargers and optional engine in Canada, it’s JUNK and was known to be junk many years before they continued to use it due to the small
Passages getting gunked and clogged thus oil starving the engine and seizing it. Same with ppl who changed there oil/used high quality synthetic oil every 2-4K miles STILL had the oil issues.
@@B0xlife1 yup! Cost cutting is what killed Ford, Chrysler, and GM. Everyone in Detroit (and the Midwest) blamed the Japanese, but it was really the US automakers to blame.
Had this exact engine in my 2009 F-150 and little did I know while owning it how bad of an engine it was. Luckily I drove it for 120,000 miles from new and sold it a few years ago with no problems. Then I stumbled upon your videos about a year after selling it and was made aware of how bad that engine was. I feel very lucky to have gotten about 10 years and 120,000 miles out of it without any issues.
The 09-10 5.4 3v was a lot more reliable but most issues stem from lack of maintenance to the engine. Whether people like it or not the 5.4 is a high maintenance engine, I have an 09 with 113xxx miles no issues at all I always do oil changes at 5k with motor craft filter.
The 09+ aren't terrible you actually change the oil regularly.
@@mph5896 I bought it brand new in 09 and changed the oil every 3K miles so that probably had a lot do do with it.
I’m the type of person that doesn’t want to take my car to the shop because the Shop already has tons of vehicles to repair. Why make the load worse than it already is? Thank You Toyota!
Milion miles brand
@@repairvehicle IF you change the oil.
@Hott Puppy , of course, common sense
Ls400 here….running like new with 185k miles 😎 1uz motor is the GOAT
@D K one of the best v8 motors ever made
Hi Car Wizard,
Let me start with saying I enjoy watching your channel. I have an 07 f150 with the 5.4 3-valve that currently has 231k miles. I have now owned it for 2 years and have put on about 25,000 miles. The truck came with all service records since it was new and the engine oil has been well maintained. It still has the original engine & transmission including original timing components. I think with the right owner, these engines can prove to be mostly reliable. It does however require someone who cares and actually does scheduled maintenance and doesn't leave things unattended for months on end. I think you have stated this with some of your other videos about the 3-valve triton but I REALLY think it is understated that these engines require you to take care of them. Just like in this example of the f150 in your video, it will inevitably give you problems if you don't properly maintain the oil. With that said I have been extremely happy with my truck and I have no doubt with my caring approach on maintenance with it, that my truck will continue to perform and not cause me problems for many more miles to come. Thanks!
How often do you change your oil?
@@repairvehicle Every 3k to 4k miles. Synthetic 5w30
@Gavin J. , you are a smart man. I wish more people would realize this not just with 5.4.
Sludge? Looks like the inside of a Mitsubishi 2.7 engine. I bought a replacement 4.7 V8 for my wife's 2003 Durango from Powertrain Products..
Never got to see the value of the new motor. She wrecked the car after 1500 miles with the new engine.
Oh man that blows.
Ouch! Yeah, those 99-04 4.7s would blow head gaskets with just moderate heat, plus the coolant intrusion. Later ones in the '06-08 Ram, Durango, and Aspens were good tho with the improved head design. Powertraim Products 4.7s are good! A couple of guys in our Jeep community replaced their WJs with them.
Man... nobody should doubt you... you are the gold standard when it comes to mechanics. Absolutely, you replace old accessory parts...
I'd love to ask the car wizard one question about my truck. 2000 Sierra 5.3 motor rear main seal leak not pouring out just minor. Already put 12-14 k in repairs I'm thinking of doing it my question is would bluedevil work to reseal it or not I'm at almost 200 k miles no oil burning issues or any issues engine wise.
try it... they have a guarantee
It's just a bandage on the broken bone. Good job, you know how keep businesses in business and credit card companies wealthier.
I wouldn't put blue devil.... just let it leak till you need to take the engine out for something else
You want ATP205. Worked for me.
Just check the oil every fill-up. If it isn't that bad and not leaving a mess on the ground, let it be for now.
Thank you car wizard. I went through that with a Ford dealer after having the transmission out seven weeks later at $20 seal went out. They wanted another $600. I just paid to have it towed home and fixed it myself. They tried to tell me the new fluid causes seals to fail 🤨.
You can count on the Wizard to do the job right. I guess you are putting a long block in? I bet you flush the radiator out too?
This is a testament. CHANGE the oil folks. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. To quote Scotty Kilmer.
He should replace the radiator. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango and the engine had to be rebuilt I was required to install a new radiator in order for the engine warranty to be honored in case of engine issues. Same with other parts. No new parts, no engine warranty.
I learned the wisdom of your thinking back in the 80s. I worked for a company with about 25 vans on the road. Mechanic, one owner and myself got very efficient at what we called big tuneups. Once the other owner wanted to cheap out, we acquiesced, he got stuck in Ohio (we were in NJ). Funny thing, he stopped complaining about the F600 wrecker we’d picked up cheap too.
Putting 7 grand into a 17 year old F-150 is a waste. Sell it for scrap and cut your losses.
Seriously. Buy a first gen tundra for 5k. Problem solved
It's not always an economic question. This customer advised that this is his father's truck and wanted to restore it back to working condition. You can't put a price on love or sentimental value.
I can understand the sentimental value if it was a ‘67 Impala convertible like the one in the Chevy commercial over Christmas….. a car like that is totally worth pouring more money into it than it may be worth after it’s restored because they just don’t make them anymore. But an ‘05 F150 is a dime a dozen and he could buy another one in the same color in working order.
These videos can prove very beneficial when trying to explain to a customer as to why you had to replace all the pulleys and belts etc.
Time for an ls swap
Hey let's add wiring harness and electrical issues to an already expensive swap, right? That LS engine is not going to be plug and play, and it's not going to talk to those Ford electronics.
I've always said a nice way to get rid of 3-valve headache is importing the Aussie-spec Ford 4.0L 4-valve inline six engine aka "The Barra".
What about the 5.4 3v V8 Barras used in the BA-BF Fairmont and Fairlane?????
@@jrburger95 Those share many parts with the 3 valve Triton.
@@atx-cvpi_99 do they have the same sludging issues though? I have looked it up and haven't found any reports of the Australian equivalent having the same issues???
this guys doesn't understand the 5.4 and needs a lesson in how to make your point more effectively...he really drones on.
From the West to the East
Omega is truly the best
I personally wish gentlemen like Dave or Jonny would be in charge of testing new mechanics before they get their license.
Maintain your truck and it won't be a problem. Go seek a counselor, because some of you act like this engine stole your girlfriend and your dog.
For real! "Show me on the toy car where Ford hurt you"
I have an 07 F150 it’s been pretty good to be. I change the oil often and use a thicker oil.
Wizard that’s a big job. You the man!
Glad you do this properly., I'd trust you to work on my cars, and that's saying a lot, because there are only maybe a half dozen people including you on this Earth I'd trust to work on my cars. So many people don't do this right, a friend of mine got a early 2000's Honda Odyssey for his grandparents back around 2016 after their 80's Dodge Caravan bit the dust. The Odyssey had a new engine and transmission put in before it was traded into the dealership my buddy got it from. I'm no mechanic, but I have enough mechanical inclination to know immediately noticed a belt noise, and more specifically, that while the engine had clearly just been replaced, the old power steering lines were leaking, they'd reused the old alternator which was making a noise, power steering pump (also noisy), the belt had dry rot cracks, and something, I believe an idler pulley was making a horrid noise. Add that to the fact that the brake rotors were grooved like records, the tires were from I think 2008 (8 years old at the time, still okay tread but OLD!), and the van had a few minor issues like the radio didn't work, I was able to get some money off the dealer asking price for my friend, more than the total cost of the repairs certainly. We did most of the work ourselves, I still hate that van to this day, it was out for blood!
Truthfully I think the dealership lowballed the hell out of the people that traded it in and were expecting to ask high, and sell for at least somewhat of a profit. I can understand that, but if someone came along and paid what they were asking for it? Man, they might as well have been committing robbery at that point.
The story here is. Don't take your 5.4 to him he will sell you a motor. Always new oil pump with (OEM) phaser replacements if yours is knocking (chattering or codes) off idle. If its only knocking at hot idle then its just the locking pin in the phaser that locks the phaser in base position at idle. That pin gets loose/worn and its mainly just noise at hot idle. 90% of these are absolutely fixable and are fixed daily although that one is done at this point but i also think i see Dorman phasers in there lol.
Boy if I knew a mechanic as ethical, competent, and professional as you, I wouldn't be a strictly DIY mechanic who does everything myself.
That Sprayway window cleaner is the bomb. Glass guy for a dozen years
You are right about today's car values and prices. I bought a new Rav4 in 2016 and my local dealer recently offered me more than I paid for it.
Yeah I’ve got an 06 king ranch it just rolled over 335k miles, this was an oilfield truck for years hence the high miles, and yes the motor ticks like a time
X. I’m gonna drop a reman motor in from powertrain products soon, I’ve rebuilt the entire front end and rebuilt the transmission. Really enjoy your videos thanks so much.
You absolutely do it the right way, all auto technicians should follow your example. It's amazing how many people don't do the proper maintenance and end up spending a fortune in the end. Oil is cheep.
I learned to be a believer in, “While we are in that part of the engine, we should fix this preventively”. 1980 Porsche 911SC airbox blew. Engine out so we replaced the crappy rubber clutch and oil leaks. Lots of money saved by not pulling the engine multiple times!