I’m a former GM Partsman. This video brings back some memories. One thing I’ll offer is this: If you ever go to a dealership to get a part and the parts person just walks to the shelf and puts it on the counter before you finish describing what you want THAT is a high failure item. GM had plenty.
@@marks93cobra There does seem to be a higher percentage of outright junk/borderline scam stuff than there was 10 to 15 years ago. What's weird to me is that a decent amount of it seems to be not priced like that but most of the known name parts still seem to be decent.
1:40 Oil Pressure Sensor (Transducer) 2:45 Corroded connections on the Main Fuse (No Start) (07+ models) 3:39 Active Fuel Management (AFM) Failure (Lifter Failure) (07+ models) 5:14 A/C Belt Tensioner Failure 6:19 Coils, plugs, and wires 8:15 Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts 9:50 Knock Sensor Failure/Corrosion (00-06 models) 10:46 Instrument Cluster Stepper Motor Failure (mostly affects 03-06 models) 11:43 HVAC Blend/Recirculate Door Actuators 13:20 Transmission cooler line leaks 14:05 Oil Cooler Blockoff plate leaks 14:55 Oil pan gasket, rear main seal 15:05 Oil Pickup tube o-ring (low/no oil pressure) 15:46 Front differential Axle Seals 16:12 ABS module bad solder joints (00-06 more common) 17:12 4l60e go PNNNNNN Matt's Honorable mentions: - can't fill up with fuel -- clogged/failed evap cannister (fills evap system with charcoal). Replace the charcoal cannister, rear vent solenoid, and front purge solenoid. Also, clear all evap lines of charcoal pellets (shop vac works). When you fill up with gas, the air in your tank needs to be displaced. The evap system is supposed to manage this, but when clogged with charcoal pellets, the air tries to go back out through the filler hose, triggering the fuel filler to think your tank is full and turn off. - stuttering idle -- leaking intake manifold gaskets, leaking valve cover to intake manifold hoses. If the hose feels loose on the intake manifold tube, its likely leaking. This leak will cause a poor idle. - Clunking when braking/accelerating -- motor mounts. the stuttering idle above can exacerbate this problem by causing excessive wear on the motor mounts. This can cause clunking under acceleration as your engine/transmission shifts around - excessive body rolls -- front sway bar link is broken/missing. - low speed vibration -- ujoints on the driveshaft are bad - slow cool leak/drip from front of motor -- water pump is going out. weep hole is leaking to indicate as such probably missing some other good ones, but those are off the top of my head. I've owned a 2000 & 2008 Tahoe, as well as a 2006 suburban 2500. gmt800 is by far the best platform. the gmt900's have some improvements, but the addition of things like AFM and cheaper interior plastic really hurt that platform. Thanks for the video Wizard!
very , very well done sir . thank you for this amazing video , i own n love my 2007 and 2011 Tahoe LTZ's and agree on everything . id like to add that for no or low oil pressure , ! 1 in 3 times the sensor hasn't failed but the " oil pressure sensor " under it ( that should not exist ) is plugged up , (can remove or replace ) changing the pressure sensor will work for a month or less or until someone stomps on that gas pedal and kicks up some debris in the oil ,.
I've had 2 Suburbans, and the passengers always break the knobs off on the rear seat AC/Heater controls. If you're cold or hot, turn the knob till it stops and then keep on going. Everyone knows twisting the knob off makes the heater or AC go into turbo mode.
My heat for my 2004 control is in Heat in the winter and Cool in summer. Change 2 it twice a year. The windows work. There are some people whose best talent is tearing things up.
I had the radio's volume dial and tune dial fall of in my hand while turning it normally, I think GM's just bad at designing controls that don't fall off
I have to agree that early 2000 suburbans were the most reliable. This is kinda funny but true… yesterday my granddaughter came to visit, we were checking the air in her Ford Focus tires because her tire pressure light was on. When we finished with her car she asked if I wanted to check my sub and truck, I said sure. She then asked if we were taking the truck or sub for the trip to her fathers, (my son). I told her it would be the suburban. She then remarked that she doesn’t remember us ever having another vehicles. I told her that she wouldn’t because she was just 3 years old in 02 when I bought my Silverado Duramax and the Suburban new! They just don’t make them like they used to!
I hope this is the start of a series, covering this same topic on a variety of cars. This is super valuable information that everyone can use. Thank you so much
My dad has 2010 Tahoe he bought with 4k miles on it in 2011, and it’s currently at 340k miles. It is the most reliable truck I’ve ever seen. We live in The rust belt and have abused this truck every year sense we got it. I’ve pulled trees down with this thing and everything still works, even the fuel management! Really goes to show what proper maintenance and annual rust proofing can do RE: I just started driving this truck as my daily for college and work, and have put about a couple thousand on it. It sat for a bit so not much has changed but she still runs minty fresh. Burns a little oil but with this kinda mileage you expect the rings to be less than factory fresh. Have new quarter panels and rockers on the way to make it look brand new.
Wow i have a 08 suburban LTZ with 210k miles this video scare me lol, but my SUV is reliable every thing works great, i even pull a trailer 8k pounds weight with load for thousands of miles, my wife love this suv
Like they say even the broken watch is right twice a day. I had 3 GM 2 Chevy's they rotted out bad. Brake lines brake module transmission fuel pumps. Wen my brake lines and module went on my last truck I scrapped it way to much to fix. The engines were not bad just everything else around it failed. Joys of living in the rust belt.
@@markchapman2585 that is a rust belt issue not a general motors or Chevy problem trust me I have a Yukon with 432 thousand miles on it in Kansas City quality maintenance is job one
My Mom has my Grandparents old 2007 Tahoe LTZ. It’s got 430,000 (267,000 miles) kilometres on it and still going strong. Original engine and transmission. Only broke down once because it needed a new battery.
When someone says "don't modify your vehicle, the engineers know better..." I think of videos like this and realize they don't work on anything themselves.
@@gwinbeer Yep. A cheap part that is $5 less than a better part, times 1 million vehicles is $5 Million dollars. Especially if the part is likely to fail outside of the warranty. I have ties to companies who distribute equipment from large companies. Part of the model for the business selling and servicing the equipment is the callback. The more something fails, the more service calls can be made.
I'm pretty sure the engineers come up with a vehicle that would cost about $100,000..and the bean counters have to find where the cuts are to get it to the $35,000 or whatever price point
I used to be a Gm tech when these came out ... 1/2 ton chassis with 4l60 did hundreds of them and transfer cases especially if they are left in auto 4x4 mode.. stretch the chain which was 900 bucks if it didn't destroy the aluminum case. Rear axles I swear were made of glass.. among alot of Delphi electronic issues ... but majority of the issues is lack of maintenance
Those ol 4l60s just never held up? I'm sure it was a lack of maintenance, but still, kinda sucks because I always wanted a gmt800 Tahoe or Yukon, but whenever I find them they're either rusted out or don't have any trans maintenance history.
My 2002 Silverado Z71 is still rolling strong. But, I do all the work myself, never had an issue with the transmission, had an issue with the transfer case, rebuild and away we go. It's honestly the easiest vehicle to work on I've ever owned.
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe and I love it! They aren’t overly complicated to work on yet I still dread doing the heater core replacement when the time comes. I bought it for $700 in 2020 with a blown transmission and thanks to RUclips videos just like yours was able to rebuild it. Not perfectly I suspect and might live a shorter life span than a done professionally one but so far it drives. 😅
I'd definitely get another one for that price. Heater core went out In my 04 tahoe years ago, but I just bypassed it and kept going. Probably going to have to rebuild my transmission too before to long though.
The only thing that stopped me from getting a 3rd gen Tahoe instead of my 4runner is of all 10 I have looked around, non of them are maintained properly. It seems like in bigger metro area people that buy these trucks never cared about common maintenance. I've seen oil as dark as coal, burnt transmission fluid that are dark brown, A/C overcharged to oblivion, and so much more. From all mechanics I've talked to, these trucks if maintained are the last generation of GM trucks that can *challenge* Toyota truck reliability. Yet there're people out there don't know where their transmission dipstick is, while the actual dipstick rusted off from the salt, along with the tube; there're people that changes their oil only when the oil light comes on. They're solid trucks, but lots of their owners aren't. Why people can't just treat their vehicle well.
I have owned a few. I wrench on my own stuff so its not that big of a deal for me to keep them on the road. BUT I install boxes and boxes of parts on mine. Mind you they are old, my current one is a 2014 with 125k. Bought it with a bad trans, $1600in parts and I rebuilt it myself. Upper control arms, oil pressure switch/intake gasket, maf, 02 sensors, belt tensioner/idler, DS door panel, DS seat foam worn out, 4wd range switch. All within about a year.
@@mph5896 > 2014 with a bad transmission That just proved my point. But still, I wish I could have a place to work on it yet I don't. Hence I picked the brainless choice.
Around where I'm at it seems that Tahoe/Suburban owners are not car or truck people. They just buy it cheap because they want to have a big SUV and then show little regard for maintenance.
2:50 A long, LONG time ago when I worked in a parts store, I had a customer come in and buy an alternator and new battery. He installed it in the parking lot, came back in and said he wanted to return them because they didn't work. I went out there to check his install, and used a multi meter to check the wiring: The mega fuse had blown. We had one on the shelf, put that in, and it was fixed.
I'm surprised you took back the alternator. Most shops wont do a full refund on electrical components because the trial-and-error guys may have misconnected something and ruined the parts.
For the broken manifold bolts there is a company that makes a bracket you can bolt to the head and then clamps the manifold against the head. Not an ideal fix but if you’re on a budget it’s worth it
All this info is GOLD and the Wizard shares it with us for free. Anyone with a tool set and half a clue is now one step ahead for watching this video. Hats off to you Mr. Wizard. As per others recommendations, you should name this and make it an ongoing miniseries. Truly priceless information here.
Spot on video! I bought a brand new 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3 loaded.4x4. I live in New Jersey. This vehicle never missed a scheduled maintance. Never towed anything. Never off roading. And it snows about once a year in NJ and it was washed regularly after road saltings. I had it 10 years and at 90,000 miles had enough. Instrument cluster ✔ Belt tensioner ✔ Coil failure ✔ Exaust manifold bolt ✔ ABS failure lights ✔ Brake lines all rusted out and failed one by one ✔ The frame looked like someone threw acid on it at 90 k miles. I recieved a recall notice about the frame rust but when I brought the vehicle back to Chevrolet I was informed my vehicle was not in the range of vehicles in question by 350. Dont get me wrong the 5.3 v8 was a beast . I was always a Chevy guy up to that point but am now in a Ford F 150 king cab and never will go back. FYI my neighbor has a 2013 Tahoe LT and GM never put cabin air filters in them. It has a musty stink . Breathing not an option for GM
I have a 2002 Suburban that I purchased new. It turned 20 yrs old this last month.I have over 265K on it. While i have had some of these issues, I still drive it every day. Runs great!
'07 GMC Sierra in the family since new w/ 296,000 miles now. Most of the failures were covered in this video; Oil pickup o-ring, oil pressure sensor, cam cover gaskets, oil cooler lines, and new front axles/wheel bearings. Other than that it's been an incredible truck and never left us stranded. I love that it's still simple enough that I can do all the repairs myself.
One of the most common things you didn't mention is intake gaskets causing lean codes. When it happens I change the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, knock sensors and harness. Usually around 100k and the tune up is easy to do at the same time. Also at 100k I will recommend water pump (they all will be leaking by then), serpentine belt(s), and both tensioners. Good under the hood for another 100k!
Yes, the lower intake gasket goes because of the early versions that used dexcool which wrecks the gaskets. The tell on this is the too early replacement on the cap and rotor from coolant steaming up into the cap.
I really like this format of reviewing/sharing common vehicle failures in hopes that others can become more knowledgeable of the kinds of problems they may experience and what things to keep an eye on so they can better prepare to budget for these repairs when they happen. Am looking forward to future episodes where the Wizard can share his experience/expertise on other common makes and models. Nice work! Cheers
Wise advice on towing. Up in Canada, the big problem is rusty brake lines. You will need to replace them. And make sure you check and service your exposed spare and its storage and lowering mechanism. People always ignore them and find they can’t fix a flat.
2011 Yukon unfortunately found out about this only as I tried to lower the spare after a flat. Ended up having have it towed to a shop where they had to break the entire mechanism to get the spare off. 😫
One thing worth mentioning when budgeting with these trucks are the typical idler, pitman arm deaths that in turn stress inner tie rods that then EAT front tires up. Just about every early 2k model that comes in has OVER a degree of play in their front steering linkage that leads to tire replacement every 6 months if not corrected. One of the most overlooked expenses we've had at our shop. Typically customers will ho through 2 sets of tires before realizing we arent trying to rip them off.
ay i just picked up 05 colorado needed wheel bearings and tie rod ends. pitman and idler arm is my next move. nobody really knows about them, but that tightened up my 99 s10 a lot. good call. parts stores didn't carry it, i had to go to dealership for pitman arm. a tip i learned working on mercedes. half the parts for imports u just can't find in retail store but dealership has in stock at reasonable price. just dont pay them to do the labor :)
@@ATF2099 I've owned quite a few Mercedes and BMWs that people didn't want to repair and that's spot on, I buy from the dealership and do it myself. Most of it's not even worth ordering online when you can get it from the dealership within 20 bucks of price.
Almost everything you have mentioned i have replaced on my 2002 Tahoe 4x4 Just had the oil pickup tube o-ring and pan gasket replaced as mine is at 176k. Have heard horror stories of people not replacing that part and when they get near the 200k mark they fail and start sucking air and trash the motor. Would have done it myself but I don't have the tools to lower the front differential. Up next for me is the differential seals as they are leaking. These trucks last forever if you take care of them. I would much rather have my 02 Tahoe then a new 2022 Tahoe that has lots more electronics that can fall.
When my lifter stuck in mine i went ahead and replaced all of these at once and not 10,000 miles later the transmission ate itself like you said. I’m getting ready to rebuild it but I’m really glad you made this video because now I know about the overdrive thing. No one ever told me that.
@@ImGerald Sadly many people have to do this as it's still cheaper than buying another car. I still see PT Cruisers at times. Probably gonna be a rarity someday.
I have a 2004 and that transmission has served me well. Every time I connect a trailer it goes into tow/hall mode. That trans no has over 295k on it. I change the fluid every 2 years. I love it. I have also changed the cluster. All break lines, fuel lines, hvac components like blend doors. The vehicle has never left me sit.
Thank you Car Wizard for your patience and words of wisdom, I’ve always helped out the best I could with friends and family in spite of my cancer and all the failed back spinal surgeries and pain it takes to keep up with my 05 silverado. I truly wished we had more human beings out there like you, but it’s unfortunately hard to find someone like yourself, one you could really count on for close honest advice. Keep up the great work you are an inspiration for every diy mechanic looking to save a few dollars to help stretch their budgets in these weird uncertain times. The days of helping one and other are gone I’m afraid.
I have a 07 and almost everything you covered I've had to fix +5 broken headbolts, grrr now she has 260k miles. I got it 5yrs ago with 220k on her, I gave her all the love and now she is a joy to drive and road trip in.
Missed a few things... Radiators in any GM vehicle of this era tend to stress crack in the side tanks, usually around 150k-175k miles. Can't even begin to guess how many GM radiators I've replaced due to this. Will be doing my own here in a few days as well lol. Another 4L60e failure that isn't really the transmissions fault (although it isn't the best design either) is the sun shell in them. When people shift from reverse to drive without bringing the vehicle to a stop first (such as when they are backing out of a parking spot and then throw it in drive while it is still rolling backwards), it tends to lead to a failure of the sun shell. It'll either crack at the base of the splines or the splines get physically stripped off of it. Also, the plastic on both the interior and exterior door handles tend to break on the GMT800 (1999-2006) platform as well. The exterior handles people tend to pull them up and out when opening the door which fatigues the plastic. The interior ones have a structurally narrow point in the plastic and when they break they almost always break off right at the base of the handle. The plastic GMT800 truck tailgate handles are extremely common to break. They may have some quirks but the 90's and early 2000s (up to 2006/7) GM trucks are the pinnacle of GM trucks and overall pretty well built. I have a GMT800 yukon xl that is rare and sought after due to it being a 3/4 ton with the 8.1L aka 496 big block in it. People try to buy it off me all the time. The answer is always "not for sale". I tow 7k lbs with it literally almost everyday (it has the 4l85e transmission, which is much stronger than the 4l60e). Even as a heavy hauler it is extremely reliable and I'm not about to give it up.
The dashboards in the 2007-2014 was more brittle than a dollar store candy cane. i've never seen one that wasn't cracked to pieces. Also, the airbag sensors on the front grille are notorious for cracking and shorting out. I owned 2 vehicles (06 sierra and 08 tahoe) both with the same issue.
My brothers 2008 Z71 hasn't had any of these problems except for the AFM. He took it to a shop for a tune up and asked them to change the oil. Guess they didn't About 5 months later he drove to my place and we heard the lifter tick. I checked the oil and it was about 3 and a half quarts low. He said the low oil light came on about half-mile from my place. Got some oil in it. He scheduled to have the AFM delete done. Hasn't had a problem since. These are exceptional rigs.
You missed the hard brake lines. On 06 back, at least, the hard brake lines rust out and then what happens? You push the brake pedal and the fluid goes pssst out the nice hole. I had a 2000 Yukon XL and one would pop and then I'd fix that one, then another and fix and another. All of them ended up being replaced. This is why you can go into any auto parts store and get complete brake line kits for these. I'm in the salt belt so those southern trucks likely won't have this issue.
The stainless steel line kits really aren't the much money considering you'd never need to replace it agin. Had the same issue on a Super Duty and it wrecked my master cylinder at the same time.
I bought a 04 Suburban Z71 a little over a year ago and it's been great. There are a handful of issues but it's mostly little things. I honestly enjoy having the small projects. I get to learn of to fix it as I go along and so far I've had a 100% success rate. I feel that this year GM trucks were the last generation that was built to last. As long as you can keep them from rusting and treat them good they'll be good to you and your family. I love the body style also. The newer ones (07+) just don't have the handsome looks of the older generations. Long live the GMT-800!
04 Avalanche, 185k and still going strong. Normal stuff, I'm surprised the ball joints are still good, I expected they'd need replaced 3 years ago. Iowa so it's just rusting away. Every time I think of trading I look at prices and what I'm "upgrading" to and just keep driving it. I'd love to find a clean, rust free replacement but they don't exist here, I'll have to go South for that.
Picked a 2006 Suburban up for CHEAP because they had that oil pressure sending unit fail, but a shop quoted them $2k for a RMS replacement with no guarantee there wasn't engine damage from 0 oil pressure. $20 part and I was one happy buddy!
I bought a 2007 Tahoe with the 5.3 new for my wife. It has 120k miles. I have replaced a lot of the parts you talk about, but I maintain all my vehicles, and I trust my mechanic. He knows I will say go ahead and do it. But really its been super reliable. I have offered to replace it for my wife several times she says, "No, its reliable" I think the key is keeping up with issues so its not one big bill.
You nailed it on the head, it's mostly small stuff and easy to keep up with if you maintain your vehicles properly. Every vehicle, regardless of make or model, has quirks. My 2003 Yukon XL is a rare 3/4 ton with the 496 big block in it. It is a sought after version because it is pretty rare and mine is also pretty darn clean at 176k miles. Most just see another suburban going down the road but some recognize it as the rare spec version that it is (8 lugs and its larger factory stance is a dead giveaway lol). I've been offered twice it's value many times, but I refuse to sell it. I use it to tow a 7k lb trailer for work almost everyday and it is far too reliable for me to part with it.
@@catfishbilly7425 Euro cars have more quirks. you'll be spending hundreds to thousands yearly if it's a 10 year old car. Maintaining them yourself is a must or else you have to be rich.
Got all of them except 3 I have dealt with quite often. Gas cap seals setting off the evap code. The brake light switch failure that causes the cruise to turn off... all the time. Leaf springs, notorious for breaking.
As a long time GMC / Chevy owner this was absolutely spot on. These are still great vehicles and I have had dozens in my fleet hit 350,000 miles. I have a 2008 Avalanche in the shop right now for a AFM delete. My shop loves and hates me.
Great video! Over the 2 years I've had my 2008 Tahoe LS, a couple things I've had to fix that I found was VERY COMMON are the Heater Hose fittings against the front firewall and the issue with the charcoal canister failing and spewing pellets all throughout your air venting system on the fuel tank. WHEN that heater hose fitting fails, you'll notice you're losing a little bit of coolant at first and you might not even be able to see where it's coming from, but it will get worse FAST and you'll see coolant spraying from the fitting on the left, most of the time. They're a pain in the butt to get to, but replace BOTH of them. If you're a person who likes to "top off" the gas tank, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Somehow, gas gets backed up into the charcoal canister and destroys the netting that holds those pellets in place and then those pellets get spewed all over your fuel tank's venting system. IF you're lucky, you can vacuum the pellets out from the hose connections at the cannister, but if you're at the point where the fuel pump shuts off every few seconds, you're gonna have to drop the fuel tank and vacuum and blow out all of those lines. I have a video on my channel about how to do that. Overall, I love my Tahoe, tho. First truck for me and it's totally worth it.
Good video but a corrections suggested- 2006 5.3L has AFM I own one. The solution is to have it disabled in a tune mod by skilled personnel like PCM of NC. The biggest issue is that some of the oil that operates the AFM gets into the cylinders ruining the catalytic converters over time and that will happen in cases where it otherwise appears to be functioning, not outright failing. It also fowls the plugs in the cylinders where it’s worse. There is virtually no fuel savings from AFM from the measurements I before and after the feature was turned off. Good tips throughout, thanks.
My old 2000 GMC 2500 with the 6.0 was a great truck with the only foible being the separate AC belt that would break once a year. Agree with the AFM debacle. Had it happen on a later Suburban resulting in a bad lifter and a bent pushrod. Did the work myself but lost confidence in those engines. I have 2 Corvettes over 40 years old on the original engine builds and those days are long gone I'm afraid.
That's more of a problem with the aftermarket bearings. They factory ones do go bad on occasion, but if it gets replaced with one from AutoZone, OReilly's or any other aftermarket bearing... then you'll end up doing the job again a year later, and again another year after that, and again and again... it becomes an endless cycle. I had one customer that we warrantied the same wheel bearing 7 times in 4 years. I refuse to install the aftermarket ones anymore, especially ones for GMs. The aftermarket bearings for GMT800 trucks/suvs are absolute GARBAGE and in my experience seldom last more than 1.5 - 2 years. If you replace the bad bearing with an OE replacement bearing (which cost about $50 more for the part) then chances are you'll never have to replace it again.
@@catfishbilly7425 I have a ‘99 Sierra 1500. I’ve put probably half a dozen front hubs in it over the years between the left and right sides. First time was from corrosion killing the ABS sensor (NY winters) next couple were from cheap Autozone bearings. Finally sprung for the pricier hubs and they lasted till the sensors died again. You can buy just the sensors, but between the aluminum corroding and the plastic sensor housing they almost never come out.
We bought our 03 Suburban new. It now has nearly 600k miles on it, going for a million. Replaced the engine with a GM crate engine at 500k, which turned out to be an excellent decision. We have faced many of the issues Dave mentioned, plus a few more, the most annoying of which is rust out although we have always kept the vehicle clean. Would like to get it fixed, but can't find anyone in our area (Newton) who will repair anything but wreck damage. We love the Suburban and plan to keep it indefinitely. I really enjoyed the video!
Best fix is drive south and buy another from outside the rust belt as in the south they basically last forever and use your current truck for parts. There are still plenty of them about.
When you say that "we have always kept the vehicle clean", do you mean washing and waxing the "shiny" parts? How clean do you keep the under carriage? This is WHERE the rust starts! I hope you are (at least) giving the "dirty side" a THOROUGH flushing EVERY Spring! You'll get back BIG dividends!!
I know a transmission shop owner who has upgraded GM 4L60E transmissions to the 4L80E for a few hundred dollars more and it solves the problems with the 4L60E transmission. The extra cost is usually because of the different wiring harness adapters and different U joints or Yokes.
Ideology destroys everything it comes into contact with including cars sadly so this should come as no surprise though will laugh at California not having a working power grid to charge all those EVs.
@@MrKillswitch88 - I’m for the environment and EVs, but like you’ve pointed out. We need the infrastructure to support them. Don’t even get me started on subsidized ethanol.
@Yippee Skippy Just because people you didn't vote for are present doesn't mean they're "unelected". I'd like to know who you think wasn't elected that enacted CAFE standards. Edit: And they already tried the thing you suggested since it was the default.
@Yippee Skippy Pretty much no one actually enforcing anything is elected and never have been. Edit: One of the main things I take issue with is agencies that both make and enforce rules on the public. This setup diminishes separation of powers.
Up until early-mid 2000K's was peak Chevy/GM. Good solid reliable easy to work on yourself trucks. And those 'Like A Rock' commercials are stuck in my head to this day. Would love to see a review on the GMT 400 platforms 88-98. Still see them on the road daily from Suburbans to Yukons Sierras and Silverado/Cheyennes. Think Hoovey just bought a nice one recently as well.
I'm just going to start knocking on wood. 2008 suburban with 230k miles, honestly been one of the most reliable vehicles I've owned. Only thing we've had to do other than normal maintenance items is the rear end axel seals had to be replaced. Almost any vehicle can be reliable if you take maintenance seriously.
@@umad42 oh I think so, I wrench on the side all manufacturers have there issues but im familiar with gm dumbness. Very proud that I've only had to take a vehicle to a mechanic maybe twice every decade. Again like I've told family and friends maintenance is key. Don't let problems snowball.
Car Wizard, from a guy with a 2006 Silverado I can say that almost EVERYTHING you've pointed out has happened on my truck. Your analysis, like always, is absolutely spot-on. Thank you for what you do!
I really like these kinds of videos - covering the “whats going to beeak on xyz vehicle”. Super helpful. Please do more. Especially with all the “must buy electric” stupidity occuring right now - older gas cars are going to need people keeping them on the road longer and longer.
I've done most of the things mentioned. Working on the actuators soon. Changed the AT already too. Plenty might go wrong, most are fixable by the common guy. I plan to keep it for as long as possible because no truck or full size SUV is worth 80+ thousand dollars. I can change a lot of parts on my old truck for a fraction of that.
Also worth mentioning if you buy a 2008-2009 Denali/Escalade/Suburban with the 6.2 they won’t have any of the AFM hardware. 2007 had the hardware but was never active but in 2008/2009 they removed it entirely. 2010 was the first year they had the hardware and was fully active.
I’m looking at a 2010 chevy tahoe with 300k mikes yeah yeah I know a lot of miles , but drives really good, interior/exterior looks really good, any advice on this? Is it worth getting it?
I know I'm a bit late to the party with answering , but it sounds like highway miles to me. I hope you've gotten it and good luck with it! @@Mrwinecontreras
While somewhat pricey,I replaced my cast iron manifolds with smog legal headers and new bolts within the first 6 months of my used truck. Bonus was a little more power and peace of mind, and after 3 years of use I do not have an exhaust leak 😊
Got a 2004 GMC SIERRA 5.3 with 315,000 plus....besides regular maintenance parts, two alternators, three water pumps, one knock sensor and one oil sending unit she still runs great! Not sure why but a few of the relays were failing....replaced all relays...all good now! 👍
I would like to add that another thing to cause the oil pressure sending unit to fail on the earlier models is the little screen they put in gets clogged and won't let oil get to sending unit, also, you can slightly decrease the change of breaking a spark plug wire with making a few full rotations with the wire on the plug, and can't forget the PCV valve failures, but I thoroughly enjoyed learning a few more things, love your content
yeah, i replaced the screen filter underneath the oil sending unite for my 2007 tahoe LTZ, . it was a little cumbersome but I got it done, the engineers corrected one problem to keep the rollers clean on the lifters but created another one when using a gas filter for motor oil
That particular body style has quite a few statistically verified common failures. Exterior rear glass pop button usually deteriorates and becomes useless, that doesn't seem like a crazy Big fix however, you must remove the rear trim panel with the bow tie that sits above the license plate. In order to remove this trim panel you have to remove the inside hatch trim panel and access the 10 mm fasteners which secure that trim plate to the exterior of the vehicle. The plastic panel and the metal clips along with the bolts 10 to brake seized up and wreak havoc on that trim panel the best advice I could give as far as that goes is to not repair it. The window switches are notorious for going bad. The finish on HVAC control head buttons typically wear out from use, there are companies that offer vinyl overlay stickers for those control buttons but it would drive me nuts. Rear defroster tabs are constantly breaking off. They can actually be glued back on with the permatex defroster tab glue kit. The rear disc brake backing plate typically is nonexistent, the rear end axle seals typically have leaked long-term and caused rear end to be poorly lubricated. The side-view mirror adjustment motors go out quite often along with that power window switch. Also the motor mounts are a common failure especially the driver side. Overall for somebody that can either do their own maintenance or knows someone that they can trust to handle that for them I would highly recommend one of these vehicles provided that you either do an active fuel management delete as you mentioned in your video and they also offer a plug in OBD module that you can use which is available on Amazon to defeat that. Thanks for your honest review of this vehicle and I really enjoy your videos
*This is a great video Wizard. I did a lot of research before buying my 2010 Ford Explorer V8 and the first maintenance items I took care of right away was an oil change, replace the fluid of the transfer case and differential.*
Own nothing but GM vehicles and these years you covered are some of the best ones I’ve ever had. Dealt with several of these issues but they’re relatively easy to fix and the pre AFM motors will run forever. I still trust these over some other brands.
I got 2 miles down the road from the house with the camper and realized I forgot to put it in tow/haul mode. I flipped it on at the traffic light and my wife started freaking out cause she saw the light come on 🤣 I had to explain to her what I did. I think I lost 1/2 a MPG on my trip compared to not pulling the camper.
Love the glasses man. You are 100% correct on your points. I’ve been in auto parts for over a decade and I thank God for the GM full size variants. They keep my doors open. Never knew about the overdrive on the 4L60s. That’s great information to have. You didn’t mention the vapor canisters back at the gas tank or the solenoid under the hood. I’ve sold a bunch of those over the years. Great channel. Been watching for years now. TTYL ✌️
I have a 2006 GMC Envoy with the 5.3, the Oil Pressure Sensor failed at about 70k miles, but you are able to reach back there and replace it without taking the manifold off. Shop wanted something like $450 to do it, luckily I was able to buy the part and a full mechanics socket set for only $300ish
We have an 03 Yukon Denali that we’ve owned since brand new and it has been the most reliable vehicle we have ever owned. I can count on one hand the times we have had to replace or fix a broken part. Of course we maintain the vehicle and don’t beat on it. It still looks and drives like new with 156k miles on it.
I have a rusty old 96 Tahoe with the Vortec V8. 340K on the odemeter. Only major repairs was a worn out brake line. I don't count things like tires, brakes, exhaust, etc.
Another thing as well to help preserve the life of the transmission, is to get the fluid and filter changed in regular intervals. Overtime the fluid can become dark and sometimes burnt. It loses its protective minerals and can no longer protect your transmission. It's a fairly easy job to do yourself, although messy. I wish GM would use a drain plug on the transmission pans as well.
Mine has 364k miles and the transmission fluid has never been changed. I've owned the truck since 56k. I know I should have done it, but my bad, I never did it. Still shifting fine although I wouldn't even consider changing the fluid now. I've been told the transmission is the weak point of this truck. but you'd never know it from my experience.
Dude seriously! Thank you for this video! This has helped me realize a few broken items. I LOVE my 06 Yukon xl that my dad passed on to me. I love cars but honestly when I started, I couldn’t even change my own oil. I started working on it and modifying a bunch of stuff and have learned SO MUCH and had a ton of fun doing it. I will say though I have a new respect for mechanics because there is nothing more humbling than working on a car
The AFM engines aren’t that bad tbh I have 165k miles on my 2014 Silverado and yea it has a lifter tick but who cares On our 2013 Silverado it has 280k miles and no lifter tick
@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit I got 167K out of my 2008 Silverado, it started with a small tick in the morning then progressively increased till it started to misfire, I got a GM crate engine installed and also installed a de-activator for the AFM, with the price of trucks it was worth it since the rest of the vehicle is in good shape.
@@edc6333 my 2011 Chevy Suburban LT has 304,500 miles and it's still going strong, and still has the crappy AFM system! All we did was oil/filter changes every 5000 miles, air filter as needed, transmission oil changes every 30,000 miles (as well as rear diff), coolant flushes every 50,000 miles, new spark plugs and coils every 100,000miles as well as the water pump, Vbelt every 50,000 miles.
I have an 05 GMC ive had rear seal leaking front diff leaked from everywhere had it rebuilt.. coil pack all replaced.. I also have a 08 tahoe with oil leaks but i just fix them because i love my older.. trucks more than the new ones.. I can guarantee that my trucks are better maintained than some of the newer trucks on the road rn..
Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge. Items you predicted correctly on my 09 Tahoe-- Blend door….check. Oil pressure issue….check. Oil leak…..check. Oil pickup tube O ring……check. Previous owner replaced coils and plugs. Tranny is beginning to shudder when going from coasting to adding power again at speed.
You're ready for a trans rebuild. If it hasn't grenaded already get it in fast. Mine did the same before the torque converter went out and destroyed the whole trans.
Thank you Wizard and Mrs. What can I expect to fail, with gas prices my disposable income? Wanted a Tahoe/Suburban, vs. a passenger van/family hauler, but for my budget, they were one-two tire into the scrapyard. Bought a Sequoia instead.
Great video! 2004 Avalanche Z66 with 175k miles... I've had most of these failures. Just had the ABS sensor fix done. Just had a rear main seal done (now I'm wondering if it was the oil cooler delete). I've replaced the AC blend door, the transmission. the camshaft, the belt tensioner, the heated seat coil, the master Power Window Door Lock & Mirror Control Switch (twice), the dash cluster... pretty much everything on my 20 year old has been replaced... and now I have a 2 amp draw on the Radio fuse line that I can't figure out!!! I love this truck.
One thing that I have found on this particular model and year of Silverado and Tahoe is that all of the plastic on the dash and the knee bolsters turn into glass basically. The minute you go to try to take it apart after they age the plastic just shatters in your hand we tell customers that if we have to take their dash apart expect to have to pay for replacement parts
But then the exhaust leak has its own set of consequences, which I’m surprised you didn’t mention, Wizard. Besides the O2 sensor reading diluted and cooler air than it should, which is crucial for the fuel mapping, the hot air coming out right there generally damages or destroys parts around it, and depending on the make and model of vehicle, can ruin the alternator connectors, power steering hoses, of course ignition parts, brake booster vacuum line, vacuum lines in general, engine harness wiring, ABS pump connectors and brake lines can prematurely rust, as oxygen plus heat make for rapid oxidation, but then there’s the most dreaded yet subtle consequence of all. Our own psychological phenomena. When our cars start to break down, the issues tend to start piling up, and by then, our resolve tends to wane, while the repair bill tends to grow, the oil changes stretch out, air filters are forgotten altogether, you stop washing it, dirt and mud never get rinsed from the nether regions where rust takes it’s cancerous toll, and the noises which at one point grabbed our attention and got fixed, now are just part of a cacophonous non-symphony, yet quickly become ignored by our ears, and that rust bubble is just a bit of dirt, and that rattle in the back is just a rusty muffler, but it’s leaking scalding hot air right onto the fuel pump and it’s wiring, and that mud has called up the EVAP parts, rust has rotten most of the fasteners such that ANY repair turns into an evil game of attrition versus determination, and, maybe it’s time for this car to go to the junkyard, even though you just spent $1,000 to get that AC blowing cold, and $600 on new tires, and $800 on shocks and some bushings and control arms, not to mention you did two window motors yourself at $50 a pop, and you just spent $100 on nice new “custom fit” seat covers to bandage over the cracked leather. Your car is paid for, yet you are prepared to start all over again paying $400/month whether you like it or not, when you couldn’t bring yourself to pay half that much on upkeep of the vehicle you once fell in love with and cherished? Oh, how logic and emotion clash to bring uncertainty to both. Make it happen. Car Wizard gets it. I get it. Get it.
Playing whack a mole was fun, until a brake line failed around year-17, sending us into a red-lit intersection. Lucky. I pulled over, pedal to the floor, half expecting to see nothing wet with hood open and spouse testing pedal. Instead, a thin fountain went out the engine bay from right in the middle an unmolested straight section of line. Anyone in these '99-10 owes their family new brake lines, if you're still banking on OE. Don't.
And so familiarity breeds contempt. Like a marriage going sour, you held on through a couple more vacations despite the urge to just stop pretending you still cared. But you're still young, midlife crisis looming, but young enough to start over with another partnership. Next time you vow to do better, to be more faithful. Though deep down you wonder if you're strong enough for the unknown. Soon enough the day will come when the futility of always trading up, with the concurrent rise in costs, isn't really worth the pursuit of perfection. The day you begin to provide prosthetics and cosmetics to the situation, you'll be on the road to understanding mortality, and it's inevitability. Then the odd sounds and occasional miscues will be glossed over by the knowledge that in the end, it's not about how we look, or how many miles we covered, but rather if we had a life worth the remembering. --Notes left in a '49 Cadillac.
In my gmt800 I had the transmission, plugs wires and exhaust header bolts done. Definitely pays dividends not to defer maintenance on these things. Prior owner did a poor job but overall these are solid trucks as long as you put in the time and money to keep them in proper shape.
If you service the 4L60e (almost nobody does) and install a HUGE cooler they last a LONG damn time. Most common transmission in the world id venture to guess. Great video
I own a 2000 and 2003 Subrban and a 2007 Yukon. They have been largely reliable until recently but they are high mileage vehicles. Currently dealing with an oil leak, AC blowing hot, misfiring, two with transmission issues, and an instrument cluster failure. You pretty much covered it all in this excellent video. Thanks!
The Wizard is doing God's work. This GM platform is perhaps the most sold truck platform in the US of the last 20 years. They are great...provided you get the right one. AFM/DFM(now) really did a number on the volume 5.3 V8, mostly due to poor oil change intervals and failing solenoids. The 5.3s from the GMT-800s are nearly bulletproof, as is the 6.0. So many people buy these in the used market, which I understand due to their styling(they still look good) space, cargo, and hauling abilities. But I'm so glad Wiz is informing the masses of what to look out for, especially since many of these are getting up there in age. The 07-14s brought more tech, but many more problems over the GMT-400/GMT-800.
The GMT-900s are still super solid trucks though. They don't have the old GMT-800 trucks reputation for being bulletproof, but if you take care of them they are just about as reliable
@@natezosso6822 But why??? I was never impressed u any of the Ford's I have driven or owned. Basically the same can be said of GM products; EXCEPT for my very first car - a 65 Pontiac Tempest with a 326 V-8 connected to a Powerglide trans. I LOVED that car. Too bad it got totalled out from under me. I got to fly a hospital bed for four weeks and relearn how to walk. That was on July 73.
These really are a great reliable vehicle from 99 to 2008. Yes they have common failure point’s but there well documented and easy to fix. What’s important is that the drivetrain is extremely reliable in the hands of a competent owner that maintains there vehicle. Odds are if you watch this channel you have some mechanical knowledge. Buying one of these GM vehicles is a great choice if it was maintained properly. Even if it has high mileage. The reliability will rival any other brand out there, they have good power and get decent fuel mileage. Overall just a nice ride to daily.
@@Thumper68 all my pals and relations w/ '13-16 have major expensive failures and downtimes. GM lost the plot, and Ford and the other ones ,namely Toyota and Ram, starting eating their lunch!
sorry charlie, love them, but they do not rival Toyota, in any way shape or form. As in, what would we use for fleet, for military, for xyz where u need max probability of success. There is no contest w/ Toyota
I have one of these that I love more than my other newer cars! For sentimental reason I do not get rid of. Oil all over, dashboard lights on, driver seat won’t go forward, locks get weird at times. Ac switch. Most of what you pointed out. I love how it runs even with all that. I refuse to let it go. Idk where to start on my suburban issues but this video is definitely helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Keep the good info coming Car Wizard. Thank you ! All the problems Car Wizard has mentioned have been issues of my Tahoe at one time or another But at 330,000 actual miles , it still doesn’t burn oil . I am slowly but surely replacing worn out parts. I would rather go that route as opposed to buying another suv , period. GM built a decent truck / suv from 2006 and beyond
I have owned 5 GMT-800s, all pre-2006. In Texas, vehicles must annually pass a safety inspection, to include a test of the parking / emergency brake. That's when you find out that yours doesn't work. All but one of mine had failure here.
That's interesting. I've driven my 05 in NY for the last 5 years and haven't had any issue with seized parking brake. I use it every time I park, so I'm guessing that bit of exercise kept it healthy. I would think Texas would be the ideal place to keep these in perfect shape.
In regards to the HVAC actuators, ALWAYS lower the blower motor before you change from heat to cool or head to foot vents. It puts less stress on the actuators. If you have auto AC, don’t use it!. Just set the temperature you want and leave it! The less you use the little motors the less they break
I learned something new today. I've been on the lookout for a 3/4 ton '00-'06 Suburban, need something bigger than my subarus. I had no idea about towing in overdrive ruining the transmission. I could easily see myself doing that had you not mentioned that. You probably just saved me a ton of money. Thank you!
If you buy a 3/4 ton it's going to have the 4l80e transmission. You can tow all day in o/d with it. Whole reason I bought a 3/4tin was to get away from the light duty tranny in the 1500s
@@kefwals8722 found an 06' 2500 sub w/131k miles...paid a bit much at 20k$ , but body almost mint, just replaced alternator, other than that solid 🪨 ( that's a rock not a turd)
@@tvmasterprobutts4246 my 03' has more miles now than I can't count since I had to replace the gauge cluster. Has to be 300k+ by now. I had issues with the rear end from it being shifted into reverse at 40mph. And the transfer case got a hole in it and leaked all the fluid out. Both made horrible noises like they were coming apart in me. I was positive they were toast. I filled and flushed them a couple times just to try to get me by for a bit. And they both fixed themselves somehow not I house if vibration from either. Never seen anything like it. The truck is self healing or something cause it rides smooth as it did before. If I ever kill it I'll be buying another 03-06 like it.
Great video, Wizard. Tons of great information in this one. I would love to add on: the front lower ball joints will also develop looseness/play around 100,000 miles (I've seen as early as 70k, as late as 125k). If you live in a state that has safety inspections (of which I do) where ball joints are a safety item, they WILL fail inspection for play. It's usually around 500-600 bucks for parts and labor. I live in PA, and I've failed and replaced probably over 100 of them on just Chevys alone. Extremely common. Also, the upper ball joints in the upper control arms will also begin to fail around 140k-150k miles. Sometimes sooner for the same thing. Also wheel bearings in the front past 100k; though that one varies wildly.
Right front wheel bearing on my 03 Avalanche was changed in 2015 when it had 70000 miles.The left one held up to 86000 miles.Now at136000 miles both still works well
Former GM tech. One year old trucks would fail NY state inspection for play in idler arm and pitman arm. The brand new parts had play when installed! Not a problem, but the inspection says any play in these joints fails. That said I would expect any vehicle, especially a truck, to need ball joints replaced around 100k
I have a 2007 Sierra 1500 new body with 218k miles That I have owned since 2015. I have no abs light and the gauges work perfectly. The air bag light has come on in the past due to the sensors rusting out.I change the oil every 5k miles with high quality high mileage oil and I have never had a lifter problem. These are good trucks if you maintain them and address the problems when they arise.
Should have gotten the Duramax. 2004 Sierra 2500HD here. 502,000 miles and still runs strong. All original except for things you would normally expect to wear out. Alternator, water pump, A/C compressor and condenser coil. I've also dropped about two grand on the front end. The biggest issue with these trucks was the fuel injectors. Bad design but that's finally been worked out.
My 2001 Suburban with the 5.3 and 4 speed automatic had 315k on it when my son in law traded it in. Transmission was original. I towed in third gear. Always. Towed a popup and a 24" travel trailer all over the country. Great truck. One of the best.
gauge clusters have issues on these and not just the oil pressure issue he mentioned. they also go through brakes very quickly likely just due to the weight of the vehicle. the transmission one is very true but there are lots of different possible points of failure on them. great video car wizard.
Yes that plastic T gets brittle with age. I live in North Dakota but one of those failed on my 2002 Suburban with 195k. We were towing a travel trailer back from wintering in Texas. Dumped all of the coolant about 15 miles north of Abilene. Some very nice Texans helped us out and we were back on the road in a few hours.
I just picked up an 03 Yukon xl and it seems to be dumping oil out the rear. I assumed rear main but when you mentioned the pressure gauge it clicked. Mine is pegged at 80.
It's easier on those than on the model he shows in the video. I have an 05 Sierra and can change the sending unit in about 20 minutes. Plenty of good videos on how to do it without the extra labor.
I've got a 2004 avalanche. I'd like to add vapor canister and/or its purge solenoid to the list. Anyone else who has spent 20+ minutes at a gas station struggling to pump 1/3 of a gallon at a time will know exactly what I'm talking about. 😡
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m a former GM Partsman. This video brings back some memories. One thing I’ll offer is this: If you ever go to a dealership to get a part and the parts person just walks to the shelf and puts it on the counter before you finish describing what you want THAT is a high failure item. GM had plenty.
Especially the 300% markup at the dealer .
Do people really buy parts at Dealers? WHY?
@@jcx5659 Sometimes a part isn't available anymore anywhere else.
@@OmniMontel and aftermarket stuff these days has such a high failure rate out of the box you're better off paying out the ass for an OEM replacement
@@marks93cobra There does seem to be a higher percentage of outright junk/borderline scam stuff than there was 10 to 15 years ago. What's weird to me is that a decent amount of it seems to be not priced like that but most of the known name parts still seem to be decent.
1:40 Oil Pressure Sensor (Transducer)
2:45 Corroded connections on the Main Fuse (No Start) (07+ models)
3:39 Active Fuel Management (AFM) Failure (Lifter Failure) (07+ models)
5:14 A/C Belt Tensioner Failure
6:19 Coils, plugs, and wires
8:15 Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts
9:50 Knock Sensor Failure/Corrosion (00-06 models)
10:46 Instrument Cluster Stepper Motor Failure (mostly affects 03-06 models)
11:43 HVAC Blend/Recirculate Door Actuators
13:20 Transmission cooler line leaks
14:05 Oil Cooler Blockoff plate leaks
14:55 Oil pan gasket, rear main seal
15:05 Oil Pickup tube o-ring (low/no oil pressure)
15:46 Front differential Axle Seals
16:12 ABS module bad solder joints (00-06 more common)
17:12 4l60e go PNNNNNN
Matt's Honorable mentions:
- can't fill up with fuel -- clogged/failed evap cannister (fills evap system with charcoal). Replace the charcoal cannister, rear vent solenoid, and front purge solenoid. Also, clear all evap lines of charcoal pellets (shop vac works). When you fill up with gas, the air in your tank needs to be displaced. The evap system is supposed to manage this, but when clogged with charcoal pellets, the air tries to go back out through the filler hose, triggering the fuel filler to think your tank is full and turn off.
- stuttering idle -- leaking intake manifold gaskets, leaking valve cover to intake manifold hoses. If the hose feels loose on the intake manifold tube, its likely leaking. This leak will cause a poor idle.
- Clunking when braking/accelerating -- motor mounts. the stuttering idle above can exacerbate this problem by causing excessive wear on the motor mounts. This can cause clunking under acceleration as your engine/transmission shifts around
- excessive body rolls -- front sway bar link is broken/missing.
- low speed vibration -- ujoints on the driveshaft are bad
- slow cool leak/drip from front of motor -- water pump is going out. weep hole is leaking to indicate as such
probably missing some other good ones, but those are off the top of my head. I've owned a 2000 & 2008 Tahoe, as well as a 2006 suburban 2500. gmt800 is by far the best platform. the gmt900's have some improvements, but the addition of things like AFM and cheaper interior plastic really hurt that platform.
Thanks for the video Wizard!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the intel. I'm getting a 'Evap system leak test fail' on my 2001 Suburban. Care to comment?
Heater coolant hose connections/hose too
very , very well done sir . thank you for this amazing video , i own n love my 2007 and 2011 Tahoe LTZ's and agree on everything . id like to add that for no or low oil pressure , ! 1 in 3 times the sensor hasn't failed but the " oil pressure sensor " under it ( that should not exist ) is plugged up , (can remove or replace ) changing the pressure sensor will work for a month or less or until someone stomps on that gas pedal and kicks up some debris in the oil ,.
Watching this guy is educational. I took notes so I can inspect my 2004 Burb and get items replaced if needed.
Nice ya was lot of same as my 05 yukon xl
I love the 99-06 full size GM products for their simplicity. They're inexpensive, easy to work on, and have great parts availability.
2005 Denali still running
I agree, I have a 2005 Silverado with a built 4.8, and an '04 Yukon Denali. Both are awesome!
Lm7 with cathedral ports oooowee
2002 Tahoe spent 6k on it and dropped about 8k into it I’ll have this baby for years to come
@@steeleflex Oh wow. New engine?
I've had 2 Suburbans, and the passengers always break the knobs off on the rear seat AC/Heater controls. If you're cold or hot, turn the knob till it stops and then keep on going. Everyone knows twisting the knob off makes the heater or AC go into turbo mode.
Hahaha good one!
My heat for my 2004 control is in Heat in the winter and Cool in summer. Change 2 it twice a year. The windows work. There are some people whose best talent is tearing things up.
I had the radio's volume dial and tune dial fall of in my hand while turning it normally, I think GM's just bad at designing controls that don't fall off
@@321CatboxWA Cunts 😠
The worst part is those knobs don’t even control the ac. They’re the volume for the two headphone jacks😂
I have to agree that early 2000 suburbans were the most reliable. This is kinda funny but true… yesterday my granddaughter came to visit, we were checking the air in her Ford Focus tires because her tire pressure light was on. When we finished with her car she asked if I wanted to check my sub and truck, I said sure. She then asked if we were taking the truck or sub for the trip to her fathers, (my son). I told her it would be the suburban. She then remarked that she doesn’t remember us ever having another vehicles. I told her that she wouldn’t because she was just 3 years old in 02 when I bought my Silverado Duramax and the Suburban new! They just don’t make them like they used to!
I hope this is the start of a series, covering this same topic on a variety of cars. This is super valuable information that everyone can use. Thank you so much
He should make the same video as this one on early 2000's Toyota Corolla problems.
Will be a very very short video😅
Yes! Would really like to see a video on the 3.5 ecoboost. I love mine but it has a turbo coolant line leak 😔
Same! I need one on the crown vic
@@joeyshuster8569 The Crown Vic's were very good and solid cars Joey!☺👍
Agree
My dad has 2010 Tahoe he bought with 4k miles on it in 2011, and it’s currently at 340k miles. It is the most reliable truck I’ve ever seen. We live in The rust belt and have abused this truck every year sense we got it. I’ve pulled trees down with this thing and everything still works, even the fuel management! Really goes to show what proper maintenance and annual rust proofing can do
RE: I just started driving this truck as my daily for college and work, and have put about a couple thousand on it. It sat for a bit so not much has changed but she still runs minty fresh. Burns a little oil but with this kinda mileage you expect the rings to be less than factory fresh. Have new quarter panels and rockers on the way to make it look brand new.
Wow i have a 08 suburban LTZ with 210k miles this video scare me lol, but my SUV is reliable every thing works great, i even pull a trailer 8k pounds weight with load for thousands of miles, my wife love this suv
Like they say even the broken watch is right twice a day. I had 3 GM 2 Chevy's they rotted out bad. Brake lines brake module transmission fuel pumps. Wen my brake lines and module went on my last truck I scrapped it way to much to fix. The engines were not bad just everything else around it failed. Joys of living in the rust belt.
That is a rust belt issue
@@markchapman2585 that is a rust belt issue not a general motors or Chevy problem trust me I have a Yukon with 432 thousand miles on it in Kansas City quality maintenance is job one
@andy n So living in a rust belt you don't have a reliable car. Are you just stupid🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡
My Mom has my Grandparents old 2007 Tahoe LTZ. It’s got 430,000 (267,000 miles) kilometres on it and still going strong. Original engine and transmission. Only broke down once because it needed a new battery.
When someone says "don't modify your vehicle, the engineers know better..." I think of videos like this and realize they don't work on anything themselves.
LMAO Scotty Kilmer
To be fair, I'm sure the bean counters have some say in terms of the materials used, and engineers have to make compromises
@@gwinbeer usually
@@gwinbeer Yep. A cheap part that is $5 less than a better part, times 1 million vehicles is $5 Million dollars. Especially if the part is likely to fail outside of the warranty. I have ties to companies who distribute equipment from large companies. Part of the model for the business selling and servicing the equipment is the callback. The more something fails, the more service calls can be made.
I'm pretty sure the engineers come up with a vehicle that would cost about $100,000..and the bean counters have to find where the cuts are to get it to the $35,000 or whatever price point
I used to be a Gm tech when these came out ... 1/2 ton chassis with 4l60 did hundreds of them and transfer cases especially if they are left in auto 4x4 mode.. stretch the chain which was 900 bucks if it didn't destroy the aluminum case. Rear axles I swear were made of glass.. among alot of Delphi electronic issues ... but majority of the issues is lack of maintenance
Those ol 4l60s just never held up? I'm sure it was a lack of maintenance, but still, kinda sucks because I always wanted a gmt800 Tahoe or Yukon, but whenever I find them they're either rusted out or don't have any trans maintenance history.
My 2002 Silverado Z71 is still rolling strong. But, I do all the work myself, never had an issue with the transmission, had an issue with the transfer case, rebuild and away we go. It's honestly the easiest vehicle to work on I've ever owned.
Those trucks may have a few issues, but they run forever.
Probably why my 2004 I-6 Envoy still works. That and I removed the front prop shafts (making bearing noises). I don't use 4WD anyway.
At least the 4l60e is cheap to rebuild in comparison the the 6l80.
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe and I love it! They aren’t overly complicated to work on yet I still dread doing the heater core replacement when the time comes.
I bought it for $700 in 2020 with a blown transmission and thanks to RUclips videos just like yours was able to rebuild it. Not perfectly I suspect and might live a shorter life span than a done professionally one but so far it drives. 😅
My Chevy 5.3 SUVs have Transmissions rebuilt in Mexico - no issues at all and they run well for another 200k miles I'm sure.
I'd definitely get another one for that price. Heater core went out In my 04 tahoe years ago, but I just bypassed it and kept going. Probably going to have to rebuild my transmission too before to long though.
Pay the extra get it built right
Nice!
Bravo! Sounds like you got a good deal.
The only thing that stopped me from getting a 3rd gen Tahoe instead of my 4runner is of all 10 I have looked around, non of them are maintained properly. It seems like in bigger metro area people that buy these trucks never cared about common maintenance. I've seen oil as dark as coal, burnt transmission fluid that are dark brown, A/C overcharged to oblivion, and so much more. From all mechanics I've talked to, these trucks if maintained are the last generation of GM trucks that can *challenge* Toyota truck reliability. Yet there're people out there don't know where their transmission dipstick is, while the actual dipstick rusted off from the salt, along with the tube; there're people that changes their oil only when the oil light comes on. They're solid trucks, but lots of their owners aren't. Why people can't just treat their vehicle well.
DID YOU FIND MY RACING UNDERWEAR....IT'S GOT STRIPES DOWN THE SIDE..AND A SKID MARK IN THE BACK...?
I have owned a few. I wrench on my own stuff so its not that big of a deal for me to keep them on the road. BUT I install boxes and boxes of parts on mine. Mind you they are old, my current one is a 2014 with 125k. Bought it with a bad trans, $1600in parts and I rebuilt it myself. Upper control arms, oil pressure switch/intake gasket, maf, 02 sensors, belt tensioner/idler, DS door panel, DS seat foam worn out, 4wd range switch. All within about a year.
@@mph5896 > 2014 with a bad transmission
That just proved my point. But still, I wish I could have a place to work on it yet I don't. Hence I picked the brainless choice.
got a 99 gmc suburban 5.7 4wd great truck .. end of an era
Around where I'm at it seems that Tahoe/Suburban owners are not car or truck people. They just buy it cheap because they want to have a big SUV and then show little regard for maintenance.
2:50 A long, LONG time ago when I worked in a parts store, I had a customer come in and buy an alternator and new battery. He installed it in the parking lot, came back in and said he wanted to return them because they didn't work. I went out there to check his install, and used a multi meter to check the wiring: The mega fuse had blown. We had one on the shelf, put that in, and it was fixed.
I'm surprised you took back the alternator. Most shops wont do a full refund on electrical components because the trial-and-error guys may have misconnected something and ruined the parts.
@@rollydoucet8909to hell with the next sucker 😆
@@rollydoucet8909 He never stated he took back the alternator.. read again.
For the broken manifold bolts there is a company that makes a bracket you can bolt to the head and then clamps the manifold against the head. Not an ideal fix but if you’re on a budget it’s worth it
All this info is GOLD and the Wizard shares it with us for free. Anyone with a tool set and half a clue is now one step ahead for watching this video.
Hats off to you Mr. Wizard. As per others recommendations, you should name this and make it an ongoing miniseries. Truly priceless information here.
Only 30 views and already 20 likes , that’s how you know there’s a lot of love for the wizard in the RUclips car Community .
He's loved that's for sure,such a wealth of knowledge!👌👊💪💪💪
WHO? 😉
Now it’s over 1 million views and 23k likes 🔥🔥any more remarks??
Spot on video!
I bought a brand new 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3 loaded.4x4. I live in New Jersey.
This vehicle never missed a scheduled maintance.
Never towed anything.
Never off roading.
And it snows about once a year in NJ and it was washed regularly after road saltings.
I had it 10 years and at 90,000 miles had enough.
Instrument cluster ✔
Belt tensioner ✔
Coil failure ✔
Exaust manifold bolt ✔
ABS failure lights ✔
Brake lines all rusted out and failed one by one ✔
The frame looked like someone threw acid on it at 90 k miles.
I recieved a recall notice about the frame rust but when I brought the vehicle back to Chevrolet I was informed my vehicle was not in the range of vehicles in question by 350.
Dont get me wrong the 5.3 v8 was a beast .
I was always a Chevy guy up to that point but am now in a Ford F 150 king cab and never will go back.
FYI my neighbor has a 2013 Tahoe LT and GM never put cabin air filters in them. It has a musty stink . Breathing not an option for GM
I have a 2002 Suburban that I purchased new. It turned 20 yrs old this last month.I have over 265K on it. While i have had some of these issues, I still drive it every day. Runs great!
Which model?
What's your mpg on the 2002 suburban?
@@fast_life7 I really don’t know. Guessing 12/18
'07 GMC Sierra in the family since new w/ 296,000 miles now. Most of the failures were covered in this video; Oil pickup o-ring, oil pressure sensor, cam cover gaskets, oil cooler lines, and new front axles/wheel bearings. Other than that it's been an incredible truck and never left us stranded. I love that it's still simple enough that I can do all the repairs myself.
Bingo PAL…
but did they all happen at 100k like insinuated here? I bet not...
2005 GMC left my family stranded plenty of times. Glad you had a better experience.
One of the most common things you didn't mention is intake gaskets causing lean codes. When it happens I change the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, knock sensors and harness. Usually around 100k and the tune up is easy to do at the same time. Also at 100k I will recommend water pump (they all will be leaking by then), serpentine belt(s), and both tensioners. Good under the hood for another 100k!
I have beat the dog shit outta LS and ls variant motors.. and NEVER have I had a head gasket problem.
Yes water pump. Mine failed right at 120k. Also the electric fan motors
I have a p219a code, I probably have to change the intake gasket is what people say
Yes, the lower intake gasket goes because of the early versions that used dexcool which wrecks the gaskets. The tell on this is the too early replacement on the cap and rotor from coolant steaming up into the cap.
@@brandonkelsey1092 He was talking about intake gaskets.
I really like this format of reviewing/sharing common vehicle failures in hopes that others can become more knowledgeable of the kinds of problems they may experience and what things to keep an eye on so they can better prepare to budget for these repairs when they happen. Am looking forward to future episodes where the Wizard can share his experience/expertise on other common makes and models. Nice work! Cheers
Wise advice on towing. Up in Canada, the big problem is rusty brake lines. You will need to replace them. And make sure you check and service your exposed spare and its storage and lowering mechanism. People always ignore them and find they can’t fix a flat.
2011 Yukon unfortunately found out about this only as I tried to lower the spare after a flat. Ended up having have it towed to a shop where they had to break the entire mechanism to get the spare off. 😫
One thing worth mentioning when budgeting with these trucks are the typical idler, pitman arm deaths that in turn stress inner tie rods that then EAT front tires up. Just about every early 2k model that comes in has OVER a degree of play in their front steering linkage that leads to tire replacement every 6 months if not corrected. One of the most overlooked expenses we've had at our shop. Typically customers will ho through 2 sets of tires before realizing we arent trying to rip them off.
ay i just picked up 05 colorado needed wheel bearings and tie rod ends. pitman and idler arm is my next move. nobody really knows about them, but that tightened up my 99 s10 a lot. good call. parts stores didn't carry it, i had to go to dealership for pitman arm. a tip i learned working on mercedes. half the parts for imports u just can't find in retail store but dealership has in stock at reasonable price. just dont pay them to do the labor :)
@@ATF2099 I've owned quite a few Mercedes and BMWs that people didn't want to repair and that's spot on, I buy from the dealership and do it myself. Most of it's not even worth ordering online when you can get it from the dealership within 20 bucks of price.
Almost everything you have mentioned i have replaced on my 2002 Tahoe 4x4 Just had the oil pickup tube o-ring and pan gasket replaced as mine is at 176k. Have heard horror stories of people not replacing that part and when they get near the 200k mark they fail and start sucking air and trash the motor.
Would have done it myself but I don't have the tools to lower the front differential. Up next for me is the differential seals as they are leaking.
These trucks last forever if you take care of them. I would much rather have my 02 Tahoe then a new 2022 Tahoe that has lots more electronics that can fall.
My 97 made it to 252k before trans went then my 07 was sold running strong at 293k they are great if you maintain them
My 2001 Yukon 4x4 has had the exact same problems. But ĺike u we love this suv.
When my lifter stuck in mine i went ahead and replaced all of these at once and not 10,000 miles later the transmission ate itself like you said. I’m getting ready to rebuild it but I’m really glad you made this video because now I know about the overdrive thing. No one ever told me that.
you sure you want to put more money into a car that has so many common problems?
@@ImGerald Sadly many people have to do this as it's still cheaper than buying another car. I still see PT Cruisers at times. Probably gonna be a rarity someday.
@@ImGerald see 20:00
@@TessaTheCat_ yeah you have a point there. Especially with the insane prices of used cars.
@@7x779 💯
I have a 2004 and that transmission has served me well. Every time I connect a trailer it goes into tow/hall mode. That trans no has over 295k on it. I change the fluid every 2 years. I love it. I have also changed the cluster. All break lines, fuel lines, hvac components like blend doors. The vehicle has never left me sit.
Thank you Car Wizard for your patience and words of wisdom, I’ve always helped out the best I could with friends and family in spite of my cancer and all the failed back spinal surgeries and pain it takes to keep up with my 05 silverado. I truly wished we had more human beings out there like you, but it’s unfortunately hard to find someone like yourself, one you could really count on for close honest advice. Keep up the great work you are an inspiration for every diy mechanic looking to save a few dollars to help stretch their budgets in these weird uncertain times. The days of helping one and other are gone I’m afraid.
We had the abs fail on our Yukon and I found a place on eBay that rebuilt it for me for under $200. This was back 15+ years ago! Great info Wizard!
I have a 07 and almost everything you covered I've had to fix +5 broken headbolts, grrr now she has 260k miles. I got it 5yrs ago with 220k on her, I gave her all the love and now she is a joy to drive and road trip in.
Missed a few things... Radiators in any GM vehicle of this era tend to stress crack in the side tanks, usually around 150k-175k miles. Can't even begin to guess how many GM radiators I've replaced due to this. Will be doing my own here in a few days as well lol.
Another 4L60e failure that isn't really the transmissions fault (although it isn't the best design either) is the sun shell in them. When people shift from reverse to drive without bringing the vehicle to a stop first (such as when they are backing out of a parking spot and then throw it in drive while it is still rolling backwards), it tends to lead to a failure of the sun shell. It'll either crack at the base of the splines or the splines get physically stripped off of it.
Also, the plastic on both the interior and exterior door handles tend to break on the GMT800 (1999-2006) platform as well. The exterior handles people tend to pull them up and out when opening the door which fatigues the plastic. The interior ones have a structurally narrow point in the plastic and when they break they almost always break off right at the base of the handle. The plastic GMT800 truck tailgate handles are extremely common to break.
They may have some quirks but the 90's and early 2000s (up to 2006/7) GM trucks are the pinnacle of GM trucks and overall pretty well built. I have a GMT800 yukon xl that is rare and sought after due to it being a 3/4 ton with the 8.1L aka 496 big block in it. People try to buy it off me all the time. The answer is always "not for sale". I tow 7k lbs with it literally almost everyday (it has the 4l85e transmission, which is much stronger than the 4l60e). Even as a heavy hauler it is extremely reliable and I'm not about to give it up.
I thought the 8.1s had the 4L85e transmission no?
Temperature control module! Manual one not digital!
@@alecmurray8339 looks like he edited his comment and didn't say anything about you mentioning it
@@jonnardjackson2884 I have a digital temp controller, can I replace it with a manual one when it craps out?
@@rackaddict8227 I am not sure! But I don’t think so!
The dashboards in the 2007-2014 was more brittle than a dollar store candy cane. i've never seen one that wasn't cracked to pieces. Also, the airbag sensors on the front grille are notorious for cracking and shorting out. I owned 2 vehicles (06 sierra and 08 tahoe) both with the same issue.
It's a heat thing, had no problems with the three we owned in WI.
I have a non cracked 07
I have a buddy that bought his in cali and brought it to Chicago and its cracked
Aint lying my shyt looks like someone been tap dancing on it.
Funny. I have an 06 Sierra and 08 tahoe lol
My brothers 2008 Z71 hasn't had any of these problems except for the AFM. He took it to a shop for a tune up and asked them to change the oil. Guess they didn't
About 5 months later he drove to my place and we heard the lifter tick. I checked the oil and it was about 3 and a half quarts low. He said the low oil light came on about half-mile from my place. Got some oil in it. He scheduled to have the AFM delete done. Hasn't had a problem since. These are exceptional rigs.
You missed the hard brake lines. On 06 back, at least, the hard brake lines rust out and then what happens? You push the brake pedal and the fluid goes pssst out the nice hole. I had a 2000 Yukon XL and one would pop and then I'd fix that one, then another and fix and another. All of them ended up being replaced. This is why you can go into any auto parts store and get complete brake line kits for these. I'm in the salt belt so those southern trucks likely won't have this issue.
The stainless steel line kits really aren't the much money considering you'd never need to replace it agin. Had the same issue on a Super Duty and it wrecked my master cylinder at the same time.
Same.
I bought a 04 Suburban Z71 a little over a year ago and it's been great. There are a handful of issues but it's mostly little things. I honestly enjoy having the small projects. I get to learn of to fix it as I go along and so far I've had a 100% success rate. I feel that this year GM trucks were the last generation that was built to last. As long as you can keep them from rusting and treat them good they'll be good to you and your family. I love the body style also. The newer ones (07+) just don't have the handsome looks of the older generations. Long live the GMT-800!
I agree with you. I have an 04 Z71 Tahoe 4x4 and a 2012 Tahoe and I must say I love my 2004 more than any vehicle I've ever owned.
Nice chrome bumpers on the older trucks 👍
04 Avalanche, 185k and still going strong. Normal stuff, I'm surprised the ball joints are still good, I expected they'd need replaced 3 years ago. Iowa so it's just rusting away. Every time I think of trading I look at prices and what I'm "upgrading" to and just keep driving it. I'd love to find a clean, rust free replacement but they don't exist here, I'll have to go South for that.
Lol right 😂
@@richc9503 lol right Just another confidant Bow tie girl owner
Picked a 2006 Suburban up for CHEAP because they had that oil pressure sending unit fail, but a shop quoted them $2k for a RMS replacement with no guarantee there wasn't engine damage from 0 oil pressure. $20 part and I was one happy buddy!
I bought a 2007 Tahoe with the 5.3 new for my wife. It has 120k miles. I have replaced a lot of the parts you talk about, but I maintain all my vehicles, and I trust my mechanic. He knows I will say go ahead and do it. But really its been super reliable. I have offered to replace it for my wife several times she says, "No, its reliable" I think the key is keeping up with issues so its not one big bill.
You nailed it on the head, it's mostly small stuff and easy to keep up with if you maintain your vehicles properly. Every vehicle, regardless of make or model, has quirks. My 2003 Yukon XL is a rare 3/4 ton with the 496 big block in it. It is a sought after version because it is pretty rare and mine is also pretty darn clean at 176k miles. Most just see another suburban going down the road but some recognize it as the rare spec version that it is (8 lugs and its larger factory stance is a dead giveaway lol). I've been offered twice it's value many times, but I refuse to sell it. I use it to tow a 7k lb trailer for work almost everyday and it is far too reliable for me to part with it.
@@catfishbilly7425 Euro cars have more quirks. you'll be spending hundreds to thousands yearly if it's a 10 year old car. Maintaining them yourself is a must or else you have to be rich.
Sold my 07 Silverado with the 5.3 at 293k
Jeez, as a Toyota tech it's insane to me that stuff failing like this is considered normal
I bought 2013 Infiniti SUV , built in Japan with 180k miles. I replaced no parts at all, everything original, no check engine light, no leaks.
Got all of them except 3 I have dealt with quite often. Gas cap seals setting off the evap code. The brake light switch failure that causes the cruise to turn off... all the time. Leaf springs, notorious for breaking.
@@BubblesTheCat1 leaf springs don't come to a stop.
@@BubblesTheCat1 I don't blame you, I blame the public school system, and the meth crisis.
@@beausw Yeah ☺
@@BubblesTheCat1 you got the queen's English right in your name. Happy labor day weekend! Cheers.
@@beausw I'm actually from Africa. ☺
My 04 Suburban had the knock sensor fail, so I tied the failed rear one to the good front one. Works like a champ!
Me to
As a long time GMC / Chevy owner this was absolutely spot on. These are still great vehicles and I have had dozens in my fleet hit 350,000 miles. I have a 2008 Avalanche in the shop right now for a AFM delete. My shop loves and hates me.
what is AFM?
@@jamesmedina2062 Active Fuel Management
If it wasn't for the fact that GM subs most of their parts out to the lowest bidders, these trucks would be bulletproof.
@S Silva (Suds) The main problem lies with the fact that they continue to replace engineers with accountants.
How are you deleting the AFM?
Great video! Over the 2 years I've had my 2008 Tahoe LS, a couple things I've had to fix that I found was VERY COMMON are the Heater Hose fittings against the front firewall and the issue with the charcoal canister failing and spewing pellets all throughout your air venting system on the fuel tank.
WHEN that heater hose fitting fails, you'll notice you're losing a little bit of coolant at first and you might not even be able to see where it's coming from, but it will get worse FAST and you'll see coolant spraying from the fitting on the left, most of the time. They're a pain in the butt to get to, but replace BOTH of them.
If you're a person who likes to "top off" the gas tank, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Somehow, gas gets backed up into the charcoal canister and destroys the netting that holds those pellets in place and then those pellets get spewed all over your fuel tank's venting system. IF you're lucky, you can vacuum the pellets out from the hose connections at the cannister, but if you're at the point where the fuel pump shuts off every few seconds, you're gonna have to drop the fuel tank and vacuum and blow out all of those lines.
I have a video on my channel about how to do that.
Overall, I love my Tahoe, tho. First truck for me and it's totally worth it.
Topping off is a danger to any make and model, not just GM trucks.
Good video but a corrections suggested- 2006 5.3L has AFM I own one. The solution is to have it disabled in a tune mod by skilled personnel like PCM of NC. The biggest issue is that some of the oil that operates the AFM gets into the cylinders ruining the catalytic converters over time and that will happen in cases where it otherwise appears to be functioning, not outright failing. It also fowls the plugs in the cylinders where it’s worse. There is virtually no fuel savings from AFM from the measurements I before and after the feature was turned off. Good tips throughout, thanks.
My old 2000 GMC 2500 with the 6.0 was a great truck with the only foible being the separate AC belt that would break once a year. Agree with the AFM debacle. Had it happen on a later Suburban resulting in a bad lifter and a bent pushrod. Did the work myself but lost confidence in those engines. I have 2 Corvettes over 40 years old on the original engine builds and those days are long gone I'm afraid.
1998 with over 375k try that
@@greystone83 My '89 obs c/3500 1ton sm465, It crossed 1million in 2017. Still does burnouts.
@@sloppyoppie that is so cool
All those problems with the AFM (DFM ) and GM STILL has them in current model trucks. Just to increase gas mileage by about 2%. What a f**king joke!!!
The wheel bearings on 1500's seemed to go quite frequently. I worked at an AutoZone that stocked 10 of them at a time
That's more of a problem with the aftermarket bearings. They factory ones do go bad on occasion, but if it gets replaced with one from AutoZone, OReilly's or any other aftermarket bearing... then you'll end up doing the job again a year later, and again another year after that, and again and again... it becomes an endless cycle. I had one customer that we warrantied the same wheel bearing 7 times in 4 years. I refuse to install the aftermarket ones anymore, especially ones for GMs. The aftermarket bearings for GMT800 trucks/suvs are absolute GARBAGE and in my experience seldom last more than 1.5 - 2 years. If you replace the bad bearing with an OE replacement bearing (which cost about $50 more for the part) then chances are you'll never have to replace it again.
@@catfishbilly7425 I have a ‘99 Sierra 1500. I’ve put probably half a dozen front hubs in it over the years between the left and right sides. First time was from corrosion killing the ABS sensor (NY winters) next couple were from cheap Autozone bearings. Finally sprung for the pricier hubs and they lasted till the sensors died again. You can buy just the sensors, but between the aluminum corroding and the plastic sensor housing they almost never come out.
My first one went after 18 years second one went at 20, spend the 200 bucks on good ones lol
We bought our 03 Suburban new. It now has nearly 600k miles on it, going for a million. Replaced the engine with a GM crate engine at 500k, which turned out to be an excellent decision. We have faced many of the issues Dave mentioned, plus a few more, the most annoying of which is rust out although we have always kept the vehicle clean. Would like to get it fixed, but can't find anyone in our area (Newton) who will repair anything but wreck damage. We love the Suburban and plan to keep it indefinitely. I really enjoyed the video!
Newton Ks?
Best fix is drive south and buy another from outside the rust belt as in the south they basically last forever and use your current truck for parts. There are still plenty of them about.
When you say that "we have always kept the vehicle clean", do you mean washing and waxing the "shiny" parts? How clean do you keep the under carriage? This is WHERE the rust starts! I hope you are (at least) giving the "dirty side" a THOROUGH flushing EVERY Spring! You'll get back BIG dividends!!
I know a transmission shop owner who has upgraded GM 4L60E transmissions to the 4L80E for a few hundred dollars more and it solves the problems with the 4L60E transmission. The extra cost is usually because of the different wiring harness adapters and different U joints or Yokes.
How sad that the fuel saving system sounds like a good thing at first...but at the cost of the engine's reliability
Ideology destroys everything it comes into contact with including cars sadly so this should come as no surprise though will laugh at California not having a working power grid to charge all those EVs.
@@MrKillswitch88 - I’m for the environment and EVs, but like you’ve pointed out. We need the infrastructure to support them. Don’t even get me started on subsidized ethanol.
@Yippee Skippy Just because people you didn't vote for are present doesn't mean they're "unelected". I'd like to know who you think wasn't elected that enacted CAFE standards.
Edit: And they already tried the thing you suggested since it was the default.
It's seems even worse now that gm has implemented cylinder deactivation (to me it sounds like afm problems on steroids).
@Yippee Skippy Pretty much no one actually enforcing anything is elected and never have been.
Edit: One of the main things I take issue with is agencies that both make and enforce rules on the public. This setup diminishes separation of powers.
Thank you, Car Wizard, for sharing your experience and expertise on early 2000's Chevy SUVs. 👍👍
Up until early-mid 2000K's was peak Chevy/GM. Good solid reliable easy to work on yourself trucks. And those 'Like A Rock' commercials are stuck in my head to this day. Would love to see a review on the GMT 400 platforms 88-98. Still see them on the road daily from Suburbans to Yukons Sierras and Silverado/Cheyennes. Think Hoovey just bought a nice one recently as well.
Yup my 1990 Silverado had turbo 400 and 180000 mi . Still see em . I should of kept it .
My 2001 Sierra transmission gave out at 300K miles. The engine is still running fine, Knock on wood.
I'm just going to start knocking on wood. 2008 suburban with 230k miles, honestly been one of the most reliable vehicles I've owned. Only thing we've had to do other than normal maintenance items is the rear end axel seals had to be replaced. Almost any vehicle can be reliable if you take maintenance seriously.
JINXED
You can push it to 260k miles, my 02 Yukon XL made it
@@umad42 oh I think so, I wrench on the side all manufacturers have there issues but im familiar with gm dumbness. Very proud that I've only had to take a vehicle to a mechanic maybe twice every decade. Again like I've told family and friends maintenance is key. Don't let problems snowball.
@@umad42 my Silverado is 254000 and doing great
Did you buy it new?
I just bought one a month ago with 241k 2002 5.3l suburban runs awesome.
Car Wizard, from a guy with a 2006 Silverado I can say that almost EVERYTHING you've pointed out has happened on my truck. Your analysis, like always, is absolutely spot-on. Thank you for what you do!
He's definitely seen his fair share of these.
@@anonymousplanetfambly4598EVERY general mechanic has lol.
I really like these kinds of videos - covering the “whats going to beeak on xyz vehicle”. Super helpful. Please do more. Especially with all the “must buy electric” stupidity occuring right now - older gas cars are going to need people keeping them on the road longer and longer.
I've done most of the things mentioned. Working on the actuators soon. Changed the AT already too. Plenty might go wrong, most are fixable by the common guy. I plan to keep it for as long as possible because no truck or full size SUV is worth 80+ thousand dollars. I can change a lot of parts on my old truck for a fraction of that.
I always look forward to the “Bob Ross of mechanics” dropping a new video.. Love you man.
so funny but true! Except that painting and fixing cars generate different emotions!
@@jamesmedina2062 Facts. I bet Bob Ross never skinned any knuckles with a paint brush.
Also worth mentioning if you buy a 2008-2009 Denali/Escalade/Suburban with the 6.2 they won’t have any of the AFM hardware. 2007 had the hardware but was never active but in 2008/2009 they removed it entirely. 2010 was the first year they had the hardware and was fully active.
I’m looking at a 2010 chevy tahoe with 300k mikes yeah yeah I know a lot of miles , but drives really good, interior/exterior looks really good, any advice on this? Is it worth getting it?
Definitely get it.. I have had all these problems with my Tahoe but I still enjoy my Tahoe over my 323i.
I know I'm a bit late to the party with answering , but it sounds like highway miles to me. I hope you've gotten it and good luck with it!
@@Mrwinecontreras
While somewhat pricey,I replaced my cast iron manifolds with smog legal headers and new bolts within the first 6 months of my used truck. Bonus was a little more power and peace of mind, and after 3 years of use I do not have an exhaust leak 😊
Got a 2004 GMC SIERRA 5.3 with 315,000 plus....besides regular maintenance parts, two alternators, three water pumps, one knock sensor and one oil sending unit she still runs great! Not sure why but a few of the relays were failing....replaced all relays...all good now! 👍
I would like to add that another thing to cause the oil pressure sending unit to fail on the earlier models is the little screen they put in gets clogged and won't let oil get to sending unit, also, you can slightly decrease the change of breaking a spark plug wire with making a few full rotations with the wire on the plug, and can't forget the PCV valve failures, but I thoroughly enjoyed learning a few more things, love your content
yeah, i replaced the screen filter underneath the oil sending unite for my 2007 tahoe LTZ,
. it was a little cumbersome but I got it done, the engineers corrected one problem to keep the rollers clean on the lifters but created another one when using a gas filter for motor oil
That particular body style has quite a few statistically verified common failures. Exterior rear glass pop button usually deteriorates and becomes useless, that doesn't seem like a crazy Big fix however, you must remove the rear trim panel with the bow tie that sits above the license plate. In order to remove this trim panel you have to remove the inside hatch trim panel and access the 10 mm fasteners which secure that trim plate to the exterior of the vehicle. The plastic panel and the metal clips along with the bolts 10 to brake seized up and wreak havoc on that trim panel the best advice I could give as far as that goes is to not repair it. The window switches are notorious for going bad. The finish on HVAC control head buttons typically wear out from use, there are companies that offer vinyl overlay stickers for those control buttons but it would drive me nuts. Rear defroster tabs are constantly breaking off. They can actually be glued back on with the permatex defroster tab glue kit. The rear disc brake backing plate typically is nonexistent, the rear end axle seals typically have leaked long-term and caused rear end to be poorly lubricated. The side-view mirror adjustment motors go out quite often along with that power window switch. Also the motor mounts are a common failure especially the driver side. Overall for somebody that can either do their own maintenance or knows someone that they can trust to handle that for them I would highly recommend one of these vehicles provided that you either do an active fuel management delete as you mentioned in your video and they also offer a plug in OBD module that you can use which is available on Amazon to defeat that. Thanks for your honest review of this vehicle and I really enjoy your videos
*This is a great video Wizard. I did a lot of research before buying my 2010 Ford Explorer V8 and the first maintenance items I took care of right away was an oil change, replace the fluid of the transfer case and differential.*
Own nothing but GM vehicles and these years you covered are some of the best ones I’ve ever had. Dealt with several of these issues but they’re relatively easy to fix and the pre AFM motors will run forever. I still trust these over some other brands.
Really liked the tip on the transmission when hauling. Thats the trailer icon button to be used
I got 2 miles down the road from the house with the camper and realized I forgot to put it in tow/haul mode. I flipped it on at the traffic light and my wife started freaking out cause she saw the light come on 🤣 I had to explain to her what I did. I think I lost 1/2 a MPG on my trip compared to not pulling the camper.
Love the glasses man.
You are 100% correct on your points. I’ve been in auto parts for over a decade and I thank God for the GM full size variants. They keep my doors open.
Never knew about the overdrive on the 4L60s.
That’s great information to have.
You didn’t mention the vapor canisters back at the gas tank or the solenoid under the hood. I’ve sold a bunch of those over the years. Great channel. Been watching for years now. TTYL ✌️
I have a 2006 GMC Envoy with the 5.3, the Oil Pressure Sensor failed at about 70k miles, but you are able to reach back there and replace it without taking the manifold off. Shop wanted something like $450 to do it, luckily I was able to buy the part and a full mechanics socket set for only $300ish
We have an 03 Yukon Denali that we’ve owned since brand new and it has been the most reliable vehicle we have ever owned. I can count on one hand the times we have had to replace or fix a broken part. Of course we maintain the vehicle and don’t beat on it. It still looks and drives like new with 156k miles on it.
I should hope so with only 150k.
I have a rusty old 96 Tahoe with the Vortec V8. 340K on the odemeter. Only major repairs was a worn out brake line. I don't count things like tires, brakes, exhaust, etc.
@@stansmith4054 ol' faithful, the Chevy 350, R.I.P.
@@EvanDickersonM81 Anyone who expects a 19 year old vehicle with 150k on it to run and look like new is living in la la land
@@stansmith4054 repair*
Another thing as well to help preserve the life of the transmission, is to get the fluid and filter changed in regular intervals. Overtime the fluid can become dark and sometimes burnt. It loses its protective minerals and can no longer protect your transmission. It's a fairly easy job to do yourself, although messy. I wish GM would use a drain plug on the transmission pans as well.
You can buy from Amazon a transmission pan with a drain plug built in..
Mine has 364k miles and the transmission fluid has never been changed. I've owned the truck since 56k. I know I should have done it, but my bad, I never did it. Still shifting fine although I wouldn't even consider changing the fluid now. I've been told the transmission is the weak point of this truck. but you'd never know it from my experience.
Dude seriously! Thank you for this video! This has helped me realize a few broken items. I LOVE my 06 Yukon xl that my dad passed on to me. I love cars but honestly when I started, I couldn’t even change my own oil. I started working on it and modifying a bunch of stuff and have learned SO MUCH and had a ton of fun doing it. I will say though I have a new respect for mechanics because there is nothing more humbling than working on a car
The 5.3 Chevy (pre AFM) will always be one of my favorites everything about them is just simple and reliable for the most part.
The AFM engines aren’t that bad tbh
I have 165k miles on my 2014 Silverado and yea it has a lifter tick but who cares
On our 2013 Silverado it has 280k miles and no lifter tick
@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit I got 167K out of my 2008 Silverado, it started with a small tick in the morning then progressively increased till it started to misfire, I got a GM crate engine installed and also installed a de-activator for the AFM, with the price of trucks it was worth it since the rest of the vehicle is in good shape.
@@edc6333 my 2011 Chevy Suburban LT has 304,500 miles and it's still going strong, and still has the crappy AFM system! All we did was oil/filter changes every 5000 miles, air filter as needed, transmission oil changes every 30,000 miles (as well as rear diff), coolant flushes every 50,000 miles, new spark plugs and coils every 100,000miles as well as the water pump, Vbelt every 50,000 miles.
@@ちくてぬしくけて Thats pretty damn good!
My 07 Av with AFM has a 180k miles and runs smooth and silent still.
Maintenance is key.
I have an 05 GMC ive had rear seal leaking front diff leaked from everywhere had it rebuilt.. coil pack all replaced.. I also have a 08 tahoe with oil leaks but i just fix them because i love my older.. trucks more than the new ones.. I can guarantee that my trucks are better maintained than some of the newer trucks on the road rn..
Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge. Items you predicted correctly on my 09 Tahoe-- Blend door….check. Oil pressure issue….check. Oil leak…..check. Oil pickup tube O ring……check. Previous owner replaced coils and plugs. Tranny is beginning to shudder when going from coasting to adding power again at speed.
You're ready for a trans rebuild. If it hasn't grenaded already get it in fast. Mine did the same before the torque converter went out and destroyed the whole trans.
Thank you Wizard and Mrs. What can I expect to fail, with gas prices my disposable income? Wanted a Tahoe/Suburban, vs. a passenger van/family hauler, but for my budget, they were one-two tire into the scrapyard. Bought a Sequoia instead.
I'm perfectly happy with my 1986 and 1996 GM vehicles. They still going!
Nobody asked
Used to have a 1996 Suburban SLE 1500 and it was great
rigo62982 you're a Douce
Easier and cheaper to work on
I have owned Chevrolets since 1994 and have been happy with all of them.
Great video! 2004 Avalanche Z66 with 175k miles... I've had most of these failures. Just had the ABS sensor fix done. Just had a rear main seal done (now I'm wondering if it was the oil cooler delete). I've replaced the AC blend door, the transmission. the camshaft, the belt tensioner, the heated seat coil, the master Power Window Door Lock & Mirror Control Switch (twice), the dash cluster... pretty much everything on my 20 year old has been replaced... and now I have a 2 amp draw on the Radio fuse line that I can't figure out!!! I love this truck.
One thing that I have found on this particular model and year of Silverado and Tahoe is that all of the plastic on the dash and the knee bolsters turn into glass basically. The minute you go to try to take it apart after they age the plastic just shatters in your hand we tell customers that if we have to take their dash apart expect to have to pay for replacement parts
thats most GM vehicles in my experience...they cut so many corners on the interior unless its a cadillac
This is the problem that I'm running into. I'm also having problems finding replacement parts for the inside without the price gouging.
I actually took notes being that in my family there are at least 4 of these and guess who they call. Now I can say sure let me look. Thanks Wizard 👍
But then the exhaust leak has its own set of consequences, which I’m surprised you didn’t mention, Wizard. Besides the O2 sensor reading diluted and cooler air than it should, which is crucial for the fuel mapping, the hot air coming out right there generally damages or destroys parts around it, and depending on the make and model of vehicle, can ruin the alternator connectors, power steering hoses, of course ignition parts, brake booster vacuum line, vacuum lines in general, engine harness wiring, ABS pump connectors and brake lines can prematurely rust, as oxygen plus heat make for rapid oxidation, but then there’s the most dreaded yet subtle consequence of all. Our own psychological phenomena. When our cars start to break down, the issues tend to start piling up, and by then, our resolve tends to wane, while the repair bill tends to grow, the oil changes stretch out, air filters are forgotten altogether, you stop washing it, dirt and mud never get rinsed from the nether regions where rust takes it’s cancerous toll, and the noises which at one point grabbed our attention and got fixed, now are just part of a cacophonous non-symphony, yet quickly become ignored by our ears, and that rust bubble is just a bit of dirt, and that rattle in the back is just a rusty muffler, but it’s leaking scalding hot air right onto the fuel pump and it’s wiring, and that mud has called up the EVAP parts, rust has rotten most of the fasteners such that ANY repair turns into an evil game of attrition versus determination, and, maybe it’s time for this car to go to the junkyard, even though you just spent $1,000 to get that AC blowing cold, and $600 on new tires, and $800 on shocks and some bushings and control arms, not to mention you did two window motors yourself at $50 a pop, and you just spent $100 on nice new “custom fit” seat covers to bandage over the cracked leather. Your car is paid for, yet you are prepared to start all over again paying $400/month whether you like it or not, when you couldn’t bring yourself to pay half that much on upkeep of the vehicle you once fell in love with and cherished? Oh, how logic and emotion clash to bring uncertainty to both. Make it happen. Car Wizard gets it. I get it. Get it.
This is the best thing ive read in a long time.
Playing whack a mole was fun, until a brake line failed around year-17, sending us into a red-lit intersection. Lucky. I pulled over, pedal to the floor, half expecting to see nothing wet with hood open and spouse testing pedal. Instead, a thin fountain went out the engine bay from right in the middle an unmolested straight section of line.
Anyone in these '99-10 owes their family new brake lines, if you're still banking on OE. Don't.
@@hcjpbluesky9916no l
And so familiarity breeds contempt. Like a marriage going sour, you held on through a couple more vacations despite the urge to just stop pretending you still cared.
But you're still young, midlife crisis looming, but young enough to start over with another partnership. Next time you vow to do better, to be more faithful. Though deep down you wonder if you're strong enough for the unknown.
Soon enough the day will come when the futility of always trading up, with the concurrent rise in costs, isn't really worth the pursuit of perfection. The day you begin to provide prosthetics and cosmetics to the situation, you'll be on the road to understanding mortality, and it's inevitability. Then the odd sounds and occasional miscues will be glossed over by the knowledge that in the end, it's not about how we look, or how many miles we covered, but rather if we had a life worth the remembering.
--Notes left in a '49 Cadillac.
I'm getting misty-eyed.
In my gmt800 I had the transmission, plugs wires and exhaust header bolts done. Definitely pays dividends not to defer maintenance on these things. Prior owner did a poor job but overall these are solid trucks as long as you put in the time and money to keep them in proper shape.
If you service the 4L60e (almost nobody does) and install a HUGE cooler they last a LONG damn time. Most common transmission in the world id venture to guess. Great video
I own a 2000 and 2003 Subrban and a 2007 Yukon. They have been largely reliable until recently but they are high mileage vehicles. Currently dealing with an oil leak, AC blowing hot, misfiring, two with transmission issues, and an instrument cluster failure. You pretty much covered it all in this excellent video. Thanks!
The Wizard is doing God's work. This GM platform is perhaps the most sold truck platform in the US of the last 20 years. They are great...provided you get the right one. AFM/DFM(now) really did a number on the volume 5.3 V8, mostly due to poor oil change intervals and failing solenoids. The 5.3s from the GMT-800s are nearly bulletproof, as is the 6.0.
So many people buy these in the used market, which I understand due to their styling(they still look good) space, cargo, and hauling abilities. But I'm so glad Wiz is informing the masses of what to look out for, especially since many of these are getting up there in age. The 07-14s brought more tech, but many more problems over the GMT-400/GMT-800.
The GMT-900s are still super solid trucks though. They don't have the old GMT-800 trucks reputation for being bulletproof, but if you take care of them they are just about as reliable
The AFM can be turned off for $50. Leave the hardware in place and no issues.
Everyone knows ford is the best selling truck
@@natezosso6822 But why??? I was never impressed u any of the Ford's I have driven or owned. Basically the same can be said of GM products; EXCEPT for my very first car - a 65 Pontiac Tempest with a 326 V-8 connected to a Powerglide trans. I LOVED that car. Too bad it got totalled out from under me. I got to fly a hospital bed for four weeks and relearn how to walk. That was on July 73.
@@rhondohslade idk man. 🤷 Because people buy them
These really are a great reliable vehicle from 99 to 2008. Yes they have common failure point’s but there well documented and easy to fix. What’s important is that the drivetrain is extremely reliable in the hands of a competent owner that maintains there vehicle. Odds are if you watch this channel you have some mechanical knowledge. Buying one of these GM vehicles is a great choice if it was maintained properly. Even if it has high mileage. The reliability will rival any other brand out there, they have good power and get decent fuel mileage. Overall just a nice ride to daily.
I’d say even later all the way up to like 2015-16. Pretty much anything with 6 speeds I can’t speak for anything after that.
@@Thumper68 all my pals and relations w/ '13-16 have major expensive failures and downtimes. GM lost the plot, and Ford and the other ones ,namely Toyota and Ram, starting eating their lunch!
sorry charlie, love them, but they do not rival Toyota, in any way shape or form. As in, what would we use for fleet, for military, for xyz where u need max probability of success. There is no contest w/ Toyota
@@18_rabbitIt's such s shame just about all of em build cars around planned obsolescence & made in Mexico for cheap labor, Toyota & Honda included.
I have one of these that I love more than my other newer cars! For sentimental reason I do not get rid of. Oil all over, dashboard lights on, driver seat won’t go forward, locks get weird at times. Ac switch. Most of what you pointed out. I love how it runs even with all that. I refuse to let it go. Idk where to start on my suburban issues but this video is definitely helpful. Thanks for sharing!
In the GMT900 pickups the 4.8 would be a good way to avoid afm without giving up to much performance.
Keep the good info coming Car Wizard. Thank you ! All the problems Car Wizard has mentioned have been issues of my Tahoe at one time or another
But at 330,000 actual miles , it still doesn’t burn oil . I am slowly but surely replacing worn out parts. I would rather go that route as opposed to buying another suv , period. GM built a decent truck / suv from 2006 and beyond
I have owned 5 GMT-800s, all pre-2006. In Texas, vehicles must annually pass a safety inspection, to include a test of the parking / emergency brake. That's when you find out that yours doesn't work. All but one of mine had failure here.
That's interesting. I've driven my 05 in NY for the last 5 years and haven't had any issue with seized parking brake. I use it every time I park, so I'm guessing that bit of exercise kept it healthy. I would think Texas would be the ideal place to keep these in perfect shape.
In regards to the HVAC actuators, ALWAYS lower the blower motor before you change from heat to cool or head to foot vents. It puts less stress on the actuators. If you have auto AC, don’t use it!. Just set the temperature you want and leave it! The less you use the little motors the less they break
why not use auto???
@@fargeeks auto makes more frequent use of temperature/mode changes for the best comfort
Surprised by the lack of calling the 4L60E by it's commonly know nickname, "A box of neutrals" 😂😂😂
Just driving along and boom, 5 neutrals haha.
Lmao. That's the truth. If you plan on towing with a 60e good luck to you
4L-slippy-E
Goes PNNNNN
3rd gear is the electronic failsafe, and that's a 1:1. Well, you don't go anywhere fast at a 1:1 ratio behind a torque converter.
Had a 2004 silverado 5.3 replaced 3 oil preasure sensors you can replace them with a 7/8 deep socket and u joint with extension no need to pull intake
I learned something new today. I've been on the lookout for a 3/4 ton '00-'06 Suburban, need something bigger than my subarus. I had no idea about towing in overdrive ruining the transmission. I could easily see myself doing that had you not mentioned that. You probably just saved me a ton of money. Thank you!
If you buy a 3/4 ton it's going to have the 4l80e transmission. You can tow all day in o/d with it. Whole reason I bought a 3/4tin was to get away from the light duty tranny in the 1500s
@@kefwals8722 found an 06' 2500 sub w/131k miles...paid a bit much at 20k$ , but body almost mint, just replaced alternator, other than that solid 🪨 ( that's a rock not a turd)
@@tvmasterprobutts4246 my 03' has more miles now than I can't count since I had to replace the gauge cluster. Has to be 300k+ by now. I had issues with the rear end from it being shifted into reverse at 40mph. And the transfer case got a hole in it and leaked all the fluid out. Both made horrible noises like they were coming apart in me. I was positive they were toast. I filled and flushed them a couple times just to try to get me by for a bit. And they both fixed themselves somehow not I house if vibration from either. Never seen anything like it. The truck is self healing or something cause it rides smooth as it did before. If I ever kill it I'll be buying another 03-06 like it.
Great video, Wizard. Tons of great information in this one. I would love to add on: the front lower ball joints will also develop looseness/play around 100,000 miles (I've seen as early as 70k, as late as 125k). If you live in a state that has safety inspections (of which I do) where ball joints are a safety item, they WILL fail inspection for play. It's usually around 500-600 bucks for parts and labor. I live in PA, and I've failed and replaced probably over 100 of them on just Chevys alone. Extremely common.
Also, the upper ball joints in the upper control arms will also begin to fail around 140k-150k miles. Sometimes sooner for the same thing. Also wheel bearings in the front past 100k; though that one varies wildly.
Agreed, I'd also do the Pitman & Idler Arm when at the same time as ball joints in addition to new sway bar bushings and endlinks.
Yeah front bearings are weird, my 05 Tahoe just had the originals changed at 210k, while I’ve also seen them fail at 100-150k
@@Darkman0198 the sad part is no matter what replacement bearings you use you'll NEVER get 100k out of them! Be lucky to get 30k!
Right front wheel bearing on my 03 Avalanche was changed in 2015 when it had 70000 miles.The left one held up to 86000 miles.Now at136000 miles both still works well
Former GM tech. One year old trucks would fail NY state inspection for play in idler arm and pitman arm. The brand new parts had play when installed! Not a problem, but the inspection says any play in these joints fails. That said I would expect any vehicle, especially a truck, to need ball joints replaced around 100k
I have a 2007 Sierra 1500 new body with 218k miles That I have owned since 2015. I have no abs light and the gauges work perfectly. The air bag light has come on in the past due to the sensors rusting out.I change the oil every 5k miles with high quality high mileage oil and I have never had a lifter problem. These are good trucks if you maintain them and address the problems when they arise.
2003 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 and I've dealt with almost all of these lol. 292k miles and still running strong though.
Should have gotten the Duramax. 2004 Sierra 2500HD here. 502,000 miles and still runs strong. All original except for things you would normally expect to wear out. Alternator, water pump, A/C compressor and condenser coil. I've also dropped about two grand on the front end. The biggest issue with these trucks was the fuel injectors. Bad design but that's finally been worked out.
135k on my exact truck. Brake lines rust. Front diff blewup at80k
but did you deal with them at only 100k like he is saying...I bet not
My 2001 Suburban with the 5.3 and 4 speed automatic had 315k on it when my son in law traded it in. Transmission was original. I towed in third gear. Always. Towed a popup and a 24" travel trailer all over the country. Great truck. One of the best.
gauge clusters have issues on these and not just the oil pressure issue he mentioned. they also go through brakes very quickly likely just due to the weight of the vehicle. the transmission one is very true but there are lots of different possible points of failure on them. great video car wizard.
Dont forget about the heater hose connectors by the firewall. Here in texas they are constantly failing due to heat and the crummy plastic design
Just did mine.. middle of summer
Yes that plastic T gets brittle with age. I live in North Dakota but one of those failed on my 2002 Suburban with 195k. We were towing a travel trailer back from wintering in Texas. Dumped all of the coolant about 15 miles north of Abilene. Some very nice Texans helped us out and we were back on the road in a few hours.
@@buckboard43 yea. I live in Nebraska now but do miss Texas
I just picked up an 03 Yukon xl and it seems to be dumping oil out the rear. I assumed rear main but when you mentioned the pressure gauge it clicked. Mine is pegged at 80.
It's easier on those than on the model he shows in the video. I have an 05 Sierra and can change the sending unit in about 20 minutes. Plenty of good videos on how to do it without the extra labor.
Thank you! I'll check it out.
Great video wizard- Have a 03 Tahoe with 280k miles, so far so good. Oil pan replace, AC compressor and instrument panel. LOVE IT though
I've got a 2004 avalanche. I'd like to add vapor canister and/or its purge solenoid to the list. Anyone else who has spent 20+ minutes at a gas station struggling to pump 1/3 of a gallon at a time will know exactly what I'm talking about. 😡
YES!! 😂
I've got a Tahoe, was going to say the same. Pretty easy fix. Got mine with the check engine light for cheap and fixed it for cheap.
Yeah ...just did that on my 04’ Tahoe ...pain in the butt till you get it fixed.
Spot on. You can count on it
Canister filter clogs up ,can set a solenoid code if the slow fill ups dont get to you first