What fails on ALL early 2000's Chevy SUV's!? CAR WIZARD shares what he's seen from the last 20 years
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- Опубликовано: 31 авг 2022
- All vehicles have common items that failure. The CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ will discuss what you SHOULD expect to break on a 1999-2010 Chevy Suburban, Escalade, Tahoe, Sierra or Silverado.
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I’m a former GM Partsman. This video brings back some memories. One thing I’ll offer is this: If you ever go to a dealership to get a part and the parts person just walks to the shelf and puts it on the counter before you finish describing what you want THAT is a high failure item. GM had plenty.
Especially the 300% markup at the dealer .
Do people really buy parts at Dealers? WHY?
@@jcx5659 Sometimes a part isn't available anymore anywhere else.
@@OmniMontel and aftermarket stuff these days has such a high failure rate out of the box you're better off paying out the ass for an OEM replacement
@@marks93cobra There does seem to be a higher percentage of outright junk/borderline scam stuff than there was 10 to 15 years ago. What's weird to me is that a decent amount of it seems to be not priced like that but most of the known name parts still seem to be decent.
When someone says "don't modify your vehicle, the engineers know better..." I think of videos like this and realize they don't work on anything themselves.
LMAO Scotty Kilmer
To be fair, I'm sure the bean counters have some say in terms of the materials used, and engineers have to make compromises
@@gwinbeer usually
@@gwinbeer Yep. A cheap part that is $5 less than a better part, times 1 million vehicles is $5 Million dollars. Especially if the part is likely to fail outside of the warranty. I have ties to companies who distribute equipment from large companies. Part of the model for the business selling and servicing the equipment is the callback. The more something fails, the more service calls can be made.
I'm pretty sure the engineers come up with a vehicle that would cost about $100,000..and the bean counters have to find where the cuts are to get it to the $35,000 or whatever price point
My Mom has my Grandparents old 2007 Tahoe LTZ. It’s got 430,000 (267,000 miles) kilometres on it and still going strong. Original engine and transmission. Only broke down once because it needed a new battery.
My dad has 2010 Tahoe he bought with 4k miles on it in 2011, and it’s currently at 340k miles. It is the most reliable truck I’ve ever seen. We live in The rust belt and have abused this truck every year sense we got it. I’ve pulled trees down with this thing and everything still works, even the fuel management! Really goes to show what proper maintenance and annual rust proofing can do
RE: I just started driving this truck as my daily for college and work, and have put about a couple thousand on it. It sat for a bit so not much has changed but she still runs minty fresh. Burns a little oil but with this kinda mileage you expect the rings to be less than factory fresh. Have new quarter panels and rockers on the way to make it look brand new.
Wow i have a 08 suburban LTZ with 210k miles this video scare me lol, but my SUV is reliable every thing works great, i even pull a trailer 8k pounds weight with load for thousands of miles, my wife love this suv
Like they say even the broken watch is right twice a day. I had 3 GM 2 Chevy's they rotted out bad. Brake lines brake module transmission fuel pumps. Wen my brake lines and module went on my last truck I scrapped it way to much to fix. The engines were not bad just everything else around it failed. Joys of living in the rust belt.
That is a rust belt issue
@@markchapman2585 that is a rust belt issue not a general motors or Chevy problem trust me I have a Yukon with 432 thousand miles on it in Kansas City quality maintenance is job one
@andy n So living in a rust belt you don't have a reliable car. Are you just stupid🤡🤡🤡🤡🤡
I love the 99-06 full size GM products for their simplicity. They're inexpensive, easy to work on, and have great parts availability.
2005 Denali still running
I agree, I have a 2005 Silverado with a built 4.8, and an '04 Yukon Denali. Both are awesome!
Lm7 with cathedral ports oooowee
2002 Tahoe spent 6k on it and dropped about 8k into it I’ll have this baby for years to come
@@steeleflex Oh wow. New engine?
I've had 2 Suburbans, and the passengers always break the knobs off on the rear seat AC/Heater controls. If you're cold or hot, turn the knob till it stops and then keep on going. Everyone knows twisting the knob off makes the heater or AC go into turbo mode.
Hahaha good one!
My heat for my 2004 control is in Heat in the winter and Cool in summer. Change 2 it twice a year. The windows work. There are some people whose best talent is tearing things up.
I had the radio's volume dial and tune dial fall of in my hand while turning it normally, I think GM's just bad at designing controls that don't fall off
@@321CatboxWA Cunts 😠
The worst part is those knobs don’t even control the ac. They’re the volume for the two headphone jacks😂
For the broken manifold bolts there is a company that makes a bracket you can bolt to the head and then clamps the manifold against the head. Not an ideal fix but if you’re on a budget it’s worth it
I have a 07 and almost everything you covered I've had to fix +5 broken headbolts, grrr now she has 260k miles. I got it 5yrs ago with 220k on her, I gave her all the love and now she is a joy to drive and road trip in.
I hope this is the start of a series, covering this same topic on a variety of cars. This is super valuable information that everyone can use. Thank you so much
He should make the same video as this one on early 2000's Toyota Corolla problems.
Will be a very very short video😅
Yes! Would really like to see a video on the 3.5 ecoboost. I love mine but it has a turbo coolant line leak 😔
Same! I need one on the crown vic
@@joeyshuster8569 The Crown Vic's were very good and solid cars Joey!☺👍
Agree
Only 30 views and already 20 likes , that’s how you know there’s a lot of love for the wizard in the RUclips car Community .
He's loved that's for sure,such a wealth of knowledge!👌👊💪💪💪
Mr and Mrs Wizard are da bomb! I have so many notes from these vids for when I go vehicle shopping again. I only trust a few mechanic's opinions on here and this guy is one of them! I know just enough about cars to know when someone is full of it or not.
WHO? 😉
Watching this guy is educational. I took notes so I can inspect my 2004 Burb and get items replaced if needed.
One thing worth mentioning when budgeting with these trucks are the typical idler, pitman arm deaths that in turn stress inner tie rods that then EAT front tires up. Just about every early 2k model that comes in has OVER a degree of play in their front steering linkage that leads to tire replacement every 6 months if not corrected. One of the most overlooked expenses we've had at our shop. Typically customers will ho through 2 sets of tires before realizing we arent trying to rip them off.
ay i just picked up 05 colorado needed wheel bearings and tie rod ends. pitman and idler arm is my next move. nobody really knows about them, but that tightened up my 99 s10 a lot. good call. parts stores didn't carry it, i had to go to dealership for pitman arm. a tip i learned working on mercedes. half the parts for imports u just can't find in retail store but dealership has in stock at reasonable price. just dont pay them to do the labor :)
@@ATF2099 I've owned quite a few Mercedes and BMWs that people didn't want to repair and that's spot on, I buy from the dealership and do it myself. Most of it's not even worth ordering online when you can get it from the dealership within 20 bucks of price.
2:50 A long, LONG time ago when I worked in a parts store, I had a customer come in and buy an alternator and new battery. He installed it in the parking lot, came back in and said he wanted to return them because they didn't work. I went out there to check his install, and used a multi meter to check the wiring: The mega fuse had blown. We had one on the shelf, put that in, and it was fixed.
I'm surprised you took back the alternator. Most shops wont do a full refund on electrical components because the trial-and-error guys may have misconnected something and ruined the parts.
@@rollydoucet8909to hell with the next sucker 😆
@@rollydoucet8909 He never stated he took back the alternator.. read again.
How sad that the fuel saving system sounds like a good thing at first...but at the cost of the engine's reliability
Ideology destroys everything it comes into contact with including cars sadly so this should come as no surprise though will laugh at California not having a working power grid to charge all those EVs.
@@MrKillswitch88 - I’m for the environment and EVs, but like you’ve pointed out. We need the infrastructure to support them. Don’t even get me started on subsidized ethanol.
@Yippee Skippy Just because people you didn't vote for are present doesn't mean they're "unelected". I'd like to know who you think wasn't elected that enacted CAFE standards.
Edit: And they already tried the thing you suggested since it was the default.
It's seems even worse now that gm has implemented cylinder deactivation (to me it sounds like afm problems on steroids).
@Yippee Skippy Pretty much no one actually enforcing anything is elected and never have been.
Edit: One of the main things I take issue with is agencies that both make and enforce rules on the public. This setup diminishes separation of powers.
One of the most common things you didn't mention is intake gaskets causing lean codes. When it happens I change the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, knock sensors and harness. Usually around 100k and the tune up is easy to do at the same time. Also at 100k I will recommend water pump (they all will be leaking by then), serpentine belt(s), and both tensioners. Good under the hood for another 100k!
I have beat the dog shit outta LS and ls variant motors.. and NEVER have I had a head gasket problem.
Yes water pump. Mine failed right at 120k. Also the electric fan motors
I have a p219a code, I probably have to change the intake gasket is what people say
Yes, the lower intake gasket goes because of the early versions that used dexcool which wrecks the gaskets. The tell on this is the too early replacement on the cap and rotor from coolant steaming up into the cap.
@@brandonkelsey1092 He was talking about intake gaskets.
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe and I love it! They aren’t overly complicated to work on yet I still dread doing the heater core replacement when the time comes.
I bought it for $700 in 2020 with a blown transmission and thanks to RUclips videos just like yours was able to rebuild it. Not perfectly I suspect and might live a shorter life span than a done professionally one but so far it drives. 😅
My Chevy 5.3 SUVs have Transmissions rebuilt in Mexico - no issues at all and they run well for another 200k miles I'm sure.
I'd definitely get another one for that price. Heater core went out In my 04 tahoe years ago, but I just bypassed it and kept going. Probably going to have to rebuild my transmission too before to long though.
Pay the extra get it built right
I have a 2002 Suburban that I purchased new. It turned 20 yrs old this last month.I have over 265K on it. While i have had some of these issues, I still drive it every day. Runs great!
Which model?
What's your mpg on the 2002 suburban?
@@fast_life7 I really don’t know. Guessing 12/18
Surprised by the lack of calling the 4L60E by it's commonly know nickname, "A box of neutrals" 😂😂😂
Just driving along and boom, 5 neutrals haha.
Lmao. That's the truth. If you plan on towing with a 60e good luck to you
4L-slippy-E
Goes PNNNNN
3rd gear is the electronic failsafe, and that's a 1:1. Well, you don't go anywhere fast at a 1:1 ratio behind a torque converter.
I also learned that if you drive with the transmission in the manual selection and have second to last/highest gear selected, the AFM is deactivated.
Again, the amount of fuel burned is worth the internal parts failure repair and down time, or even worse, sitting on the side and waiting for a tow.
Great video! Over the 2 years I've had my 2008 Tahoe LS, a couple things I've had to fix that I found was VERY COMMON are the Heater Hose fittings against the front firewall and the issue with the charcoal canister failing and spewing pellets all throughout your air venting system on the fuel tank.
WHEN that heater hose fitting fails, you'll notice you're losing a little bit of coolant at first and you might not even be able to see where it's coming from, but it will get worse FAST and you'll see coolant spraying from the fitting on the left, most of the time. They're a pain in the butt to get to, but replace BOTH of them.
If you're a person who likes to "top off" the gas tank, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Somehow, gas gets backed up into the charcoal canister and destroys the netting that holds those pellets in place and then those pellets get spewed all over your fuel tank's venting system. IF you're lucky, you can vacuum the pellets out from the hose connections at the cannister, but if you're at the point where the fuel pump shuts off every few seconds, you're gonna have to drop the fuel tank and vacuum and blow out all of those lines.
I have a video on my channel about how to do that.
Overall, I love my Tahoe, tho. First truck for me and it's totally worth it.
Topping off is a danger to any make and model, not just GM trucks.
1:40 Oil Pressure Sensor (Transducer)
2:45 Corroded connections on the Main Fuse (No Start) (07+ models)
3:39 Active Fuel Management (AFM) Failure (Lifter Failure) (07+ models)
5:14 A/C Belt Tensioner Failure
6:19 Coils, plugs, and wires
8:15 Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts
9:50 Knock Sensor Failure/Corrosion (00-06 models)
10:46 Instrument Cluster Stepper Motor Failure (mostly affects 03-06 models)
11:43 HVAC Blend/Recirculate Door Actuators
13:20 Transmission cooler line leaks
14:05 Oil Cooler Blockoff plate leaks
14:55 Oil pan gasket, rear main seal
15:05 Oil Pickup tube o-ring (low/no oil pressure)
15:46 Front differential Axle Seals
16:12 ABS module bad solder joints (00-06 more common)
17:12 4l60e go PNNNNNN
Matt's Honorable mentions:
- can't fill up with fuel -- clogged/failed evap cannister (fills evap system with charcoal). Replace the charcoal cannister, rear vent solenoid, and front purge solenoid. Also, clear all evap lines of charcoal pellets (shop vac works). When you fill up with gas, the air in your tank needs to be displaced. The evap system is supposed to manage this, but when clogged with charcoal pellets, the air tries to go back out through the filler hose, triggering the fuel filler to think your tank is full and turn off.
- stuttering idle -- leaking intake manifold gaskets, leaking valve cover to intake manifold hoses. If the hose feels loose on the intake manifold tube, its likely leaking. This leak will cause a poor idle.
- Clunking when braking/accelerating -- motor mounts. the stuttering idle above can exacerbate this problem by causing excessive wear on the motor mounts. This can cause clunking under acceleration as your engine/transmission shifts around
- excessive body rolls -- front sway bar link is broken/missing.
- low speed vibration -- ujoints on the driveshaft are bad
- slow cool leak/drip from front of motor -- water pump is going out. weep hole is leaking to indicate as such
probably missing some other good ones, but those are off the top of my head. I've owned a 2000 & 2008 Tahoe, as well as a 2006 suburban 2500. gmt800 is by far the best platform. the gmt900's have some improvements, but the addition of things like AFM and cheaper interior plastic really hurt that platform.
Thanks for the video Wizard!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the intel. I'm getting a 'Evap system leak test fail' on my 2001 Suburban. Care to comment?
'07 GMC Sierra in the family since new w/ 296,000 miles now. Most of the failures were covered in this video; Oil pickup o-ring, oil pressure sensor, cam cover gaskets, oil cooler lines, and new front axles/wheel bearings. Other than that it's been an incredible truck and never left us stranded. I love that it's still simple enough that I can do all the repairs myself.
Bingo PAL…
but did they all happen at 100k like insinuated here? I bet not...
2005 GMC left my family stranded plenty of times. Glad you had a better experience.
Thank you, Car Wizard, for sharing your experience and expertise on early 2000's Chevy SUVs. 👍👍
But then the exhaust leak has its own set of consequences, which I’m surprised you didn’t mention, Wizard. Besides the O2 sensor reading diluted and cooler air than it should, which is crucial for the fuel mapping, the hot air coming out right there generally damages or destroys parts around it, and depending on the make and model of vehicle, can ruin the alternator connectors, power steering hoses, of course ignition parts, brake booster vacuum line, vacuum lines in general, engine harness wiring, ABS pump connectors and brake lines can prematurely rust, as oxygen plus heat make for rapid oxidation, but then there’s the most dreaded yet subtle consequence of all. Our own psychological phenomena. When our cars start to break down, the issues tend to start piling up, and by then, our resolve tends to wane, while the repair bill tends to grow, the oil changes stretch out, air filters are forgotten altogether, you stop washing it, dirt and mud never get rinsed from the nether regions where rust takes it’s cancerous toll, and the noises which at one point grabbed our attention and got fixed, now are just part of a cacophonous non-symphony, yet quickly become ignored by our ears, and that rust bubble is just a bit of dirt, and that rattle in the back is just a rusty muffler, but it’s leaking scalding hot air right onto the fuel pump and it’s wiring, and that mud has called up the EVAP parts, rust has rotten most of the fasteners such that ANY repair turns into an evil game of attrition versus determination, and, maybe it’s time for this car to go to the junkyard, even though you just spent $1,000 to get that AC blowing cold, and $600 on new tires, and $800 on shocks and some bushings and control arms, not to mention you did two window motors yourself at $50 a pop, and you just spent $100 on nice new “custom fit” seat covers to bandage over the cracked leather. Your car is paid for, yet you are prepared to start all over again paying $400/month whether you like it or not, when you couldn’t bring yourself to pay half that much on upkeep of the vehicle you once fell in love with and cherished? Oh, how logic and emotion clash to bring uncertainty to both. Make it happen. Car Wizard gets it. I get it. Get it.
This is the best thing ive read in a long time.
Playing whack a mole was fun, until a brake line failed around year-17, sending us into a red-lit intersection. Lucky. I pulled over, pedal to the floor, half expecting to see nothing wet with hood open and spouse testing pedal. Instead, a thin fountain went out the engine bay from right in the middle an unmolested straight section of line.
Anyone in these '99-10 owes their family new brake lines, if you're still banking on OE. Don't.
@@hcjpbluesky9916no l
And so familiarity breeds contempt. Like a marriage going sour, you held on through a couple more vacations despite the urge to just stop pretending you still cared.
But you're still young, midlife crisis looming, but young enough to start over with another partnership. Next time you vow to do better, to be more faithful. Though deep down you wonder if you're strong enough for the unknown.
Soon enough the day will come when the futility of always trading up, with the concurrent rise in costs, isn't really worth the pursuit of perfection. The day you begin to provide prosthetics and cosmetics to the situation, you'll be on the road to understanding mortality, and it's inevitability. Then the odd sounds and occasional miscues will be glossed over by the knowledge that in the end, it's not about how we look, or how many miles we covered, but rather if we had a life worth the remembering.
--Notes left in a '49 Cadillac.
I used to be a Gm tech when these came out ... 1/2 ton chassis with 4l60 did hundreds of them and transfer cases especially if they are left in auto 4x4 mode.. stretch the chain which was 900 bucks if it didn't destroy the aluminum case. Rear axles I swear were made of glass.. among alot of Delphi electronic issues ... but majority of the issues is lack of maintenance
Those ol 4l60s just never held up? I'm sure it was a lack of maintenance, but still, kinda sucks because I always wanted a gmt800 Tahoe or Yukon, but whenever I find them they're either rusted out or don't have any trans maintenance history.
My 2002 Silverado Z71 is still rolling strong. But, I do all the work myself, never had an issue with the transmission, had an issue with the transfer case, rebuild and away we go. It's honestly the easiest vehicle to work on I've ever owned.
Those trucks may have a few issues, but they run forever.
Probably why my 2004 I-6 Envoy still works. That and I removed the front prop shafts (making bearing noises). I don't use 4WD anyway.
At least the 4l60e is cheap to rebuild in comparison the the 6l80.
The only thing that stopped me from getting a 3rd gen Tahoe instead of my 4runner is of all 10 I have looked around, non of them are maintained properly. It seems like in bigger metro area people that buy these trucks never cared about common maintenance. I've seen oil as dark as coal, burnt transmission fluid that are dark brown, A/C overcharged to oblivion, and so much more. From all mechanics I've talked to, these trucks if maintained are the last generation of GM trucks that can *challenge* Toyota truck reliability. Yet there're people out there don't know where their transmission dipstick is, while the actual dipstick rusted off from the salt, along with the tube; there're people that changes their oil only when the oil light comes on. They're solid trucks, but lots of their owners aren't. Why people can't just treat their vehicle well.
DID YOU FIND MY RACING UNDERWEAR....IT'S GOT STRIPES DOWN THE SIDE..AND A SKID MARK IN THE BACK...?
I have owned a few. I wrench on my own stuff so its not that big of a deal for me to keep them on the road. BUT I install boxes and boxes of parts on mine. Mind you they are old, my current one is a 2014 with 125k. Bought it with a bad trans, $1600in parts and I rebuilt it myself. Upper control arms, oil pressure switch/intake gasket, maf, 02 sensors, belt tensioner/idler, DS door panel, DS seat foam worn out, 4wd range switch. All within about a year.
@@mph5896 > 2014 with a bad transmission
That just proved my point. But still, I wish I could have a place to work on it yet I don't. Hence I picked the brainless choice.
got a 99 gmc suburban 5.7 4wd great truck .. end of an era
Around where I'm at it seems that Tahoe/Suburban owners are not car or truck people. They just buy it cheap because they want to have a big SUV and then show little regard for maintenance.
Update; Sold my 2004 Silverado and purchased a 2003 GMC Sierra from an elderly man it was in fantastic shape and there were 2 things wrong with it. #1 Oil Pressure sending unit causing the guage to stay at 80 with the leak e spoke of and the Passenger side blend door actuator (Had I known how much of a pain that thing was to change I would have demanded $500 less on the price!). Always had great luck with these trucks and the things that go bad are usually minor.
Even my dad's 2003 Dodge Ram had an overdrive button. Same deal with those, don't haul anything heavy in overdrive. It may be a small non descript button on the side of the gear selector lever but it is always a good idea to know how to use it and when to use it. Then you won't burn up a transmission every few years!!
I've got a 2004 avalanche. I'd like to add vapor canister and/or its purge solenoid to the list. Anyone else who has spent 20+ minutes at a gas station struggling to pump 1/3 of a gallon at a time will know exactly what I'm talking about. 😡
YES!! 😂
I've got a Tahoe, was going to say the same. Pretty easy fix. Got mine with the check engine light for cheap and fixed it for cheap.
Yeah ...just did that on my 04’ Tahoe ...pain in the butt till you get it fixed.
Spot on. You can count on it
Canister filter clogs up ,can set a solenoid code if the slow fill ups dont get to you first
Wise advice on towing. Up in Canada, the big problem is rusty brake lines. You will need to replace them. And make sure you check and service your exposed spare and its storage and lowering mechanism. People always ignore them and find they can’t fix a flat.
2011 Yukon unfortunately found out about this only as I tried to lower the spare after a flat. Ended up having have it towed to a shop where they had to break the entire mechanism to get the spare off. 😫
I have a 2004 and that transmission has served me well. Every time I connect a trailer it goes into tow/hall mode. That trans no has over 295k on it. I change the fluid every 2 years. I love it. I have also changed the cluster. All break lines, fuel lines, hvac components like blend doors. The vehicle has never left me sit.
Most all of those problems I can take care of myself, the transmission, I have rebuilt a few, but those are a little more complicated than the ones I have rebuilt, the GM TH 200, 350 and 400. Those are much easier than the over drive units. It's really good to know about all the problems those have, I am considering buying one, around a 2004, Tahoe. Very informative, and educational, thank you sir, I realize this is kind of old, still very helpful.
All this info is GOLD and the Wizard shares it with us for free. Anyone with a tool set and half a clue is now one step ahead for watching this video.
Hats off to you Mr. Wizard. As per others recommendations, you should name this and make it an ongoing miniseries. Truly priceless information here.
I got 2 miles down the road from the house with the camper and realized I forgot to put it in tow/haul mode. I flipped it on at the traffic light and my wife started freaking out cause she saw the light come on 🤣 I had to explain to her what I did. I think I lost 1/2 a MPG on my trip compared to not pulling the camper.
Keep the good info coming Car Wizard. Thank you ! All the problems Car Wizard has mentioned have been issues of my Tahoe at one time or another
But at 330,000 actual miles , it still doesn’t burn oil . I am slowly but surely replacing worn out parts. I would rather go that route as opposed to buying another suv , period. GM built a decent truck / suv from 2006 and beyond
Thanks for super informative and concise vids! They are perfectly edited!
Almost everything you have mentioned i have replaced on my 2002 Tahoe 4x4 Just had the oil pickup tube o-ring and pan gasket replaced as mine is at 176k. Have heard horror stories of people not replacing that part and when they get near the 200k mark they fail and start sucking air and trash the motor.
Would have done it myself but I don't have the tools to lower the front differential. Up next for me is the differential seals as they are leaking.
These trucks last forever if you take care of them. I would much rather have my 02 Tahoe then a new 2022 Tahoe that has lots more electronics that can fall.
My 97 made it to 252k before trans went then my 07 was sold running strong at 293k they are great if you maintain them
My 2001 Yukon 4x4 has had the exact same problems. But ĺike u we love this suv.
We had the abs fail on our Yukon and I found a place on eBay that rebuilt it for me for under $200. This was back 15+ years ago! Great info Wizard!
While somewhat pricey,I replaced my cast iron manifolds with smog legal headers and new bolts within the first 6 months of my used truck. Bonus was a little more power and peace of mind, and after 3 years of use I do not have an exhaust leak 😊
The blower motor resistor and the 5.5 MM bolts that go with it!
As a long time GMC / Chevy owner this was absolutely spot on. These are still great vehicles and I have had dozens in my fleet hit 350,000 miles. I have a 2008 Avalanche in the shop right now for a AFM delete. My shop loves and hates me.
what is AFM?
@@jamesmedina2062 Active Fuel Management
If it wasn't for the fact that GM subs most of their parts out to the lowest bidders, these trucks would be bulletproof.
@S Silva (Suds) The main problem lies with the fact that they continue to replace engineers with accountants.
How are you deleting the AFM?
My old 2000 GMC 2500 with the 6.0 was a great truck with the only foible being the separate AC belt that would break once a year. Agree with the AFM debacle. Had it happen on a later Suburban resulting in a bad lifter and a bent pushrod. Did the work myself but lost confidence in those engines. I have 2 Corvettes over 40 years old on the original engine builds and those days are long gone I'm afraid.
1998 with over 375k try that
@@greystone83 My '89 obs c/3500 1ton sm465, It crossed 1million in 2017. Still does burnouts.
@@sloppyoppie that is so cool
I have owned 5 GMT-800s, all pre-2006. In Texas, vehicles must annually pass a safety inspection, to include a test of the parking / emergency brake. That's when you find out that yours doesn't work. All but one of mine had failure here.
That's interesting. I've driven my 05 in NY for the last 5 years and haven't had any issue with seized parking brake. I use it every time I park, so I'm guessing that bit of exercise kept it healthy. I would think Texas would be the ideal place to keep these in perfect shape.
My 04 Suburban had the knock sensor fail, so I tied the failed rear one to the good front one. Works like a champ!
Me to
You missed the hard brake lines. On 06 back, at least, the hard brake lines rust out and then what happens? You push the brake pedal and the fluid goes pssst out the nice hole. I had a 2000 Yukon XL and one would pop and then I'd fix that one, then another and fix and another. All of them ended up being replaced. This is why you can go into any auto parts store and get complete brake line kits for these. I'm in the salt belt so those southern trucks likely won't have this issue.
The stainless steel line kits really aren't the much money considering you'd never need to replace it agin. Had the same issue on a Super Duty and it wrecked my master cylinder at the same time.
Same.
I'm just going to start knocking on wood. 2008 suburban with 230k miles, honestly been one of the most reliable vehicles I've owned. Only thing we've had to do other than normal maintenance items is the rear end axel seals had to be replaced. Almost any vehicle can be reliable if you take maintenance seriously.
JINXED
You can push it to 260k miles, my 02 Yukon XL made it
@@umad42 oh I think so, I wrench on the side all manufacturers have there issues but im familiar with gm dumbness. Very proud that I've only had to take a vehicle to a mechanic maybe twice every decade. Again like I've told family and friends maintenance is key. Don't let problems snowball.
@@umad42 my Silverado is 254000 and doing great
Did you buy it new?
We bought our 03 Suburban new. It now has nearly 600k miles on it, going for a million. Replaced the engine with a GM crate engine at 500k, which turned out to be an excellent decision. We have faced many of the issues Dave mentioned, plus a few more, the most annoying of which is rust out although we have always kept the vehicle clean. Would like to get it fixed, but can't find anyone in our area (Newton) who will repair anything but wreck damage. We love the Suburban and plan to keep it indefinitely. I really enjoyed the video!
Newton Ks?
Best fix is drive south and buy another from outside the rust belt as in the south they basically last forever and use your current truck for parts. There are still plenty of them about.
Great video! 2004 Avalanche Z66 with 175k miles... I've had most of these failures. Just had the ABS sensor fix done. Just had a rear main seal done (now I'm wondering if it was the oil cooler delete). I've replaced the AC blend door, the transmission. the camshaft, the belt tensioner, the heated seat coil, the master Power Window Door Lock & Mirror Control Switch (twice), the dash cluster... pretty much everything on my 20 year old has been replaced... and now I have a 2 amp draw on the Radio fuse line that I can't figure out!!! I love this truck.
I know a transmission shop owner who has upgraded GM 4L60E transmissions to the 4L80E for a few hundred dollars more and it solves the problems with the 4L60E transmission. The extra cost is usually because of the different wiring harness adapters and different U joints or Yokes.
The dashboards in the 2007-2014 was more brittle than a dollar store candy cane. i've never seen one that wasn't cracked to pieces. Also, the airbag sensors on the front grille are notorious for cracking and shorting out. I owned 2 vehicles (06 sierra and 08 tahoe) both with the same issue.
It's a heat thing, had no problems with the three we owned in WI.
I have a non cracked 07
I have a buddy that bought his in cali and brought it to Chicago and its cracked
Aint lying my shyt looks like someone been tap dancing on it.
Funny. I have an 06 Sierra and 08 tahoe lol
I have one of these that I love more than my other newer cars! For sentimental reason I do not get rid of. Oil all over, dashboard lights on, driver seat won’t go forward, locks get weird at times. Ac switch. Most of what you pointed out. I love how it runs even with all that. I refuse to let it go. Idk where to start on my suburban issues but this video is definitely helpful. Thanks for sharing!
Good video but a corrections suggested- 2006 5.3L has AFM I own one. The solution is to have it disabled in a tune mod by skilled personnel like PCM of NC. The biggest issue is that some of the oil that operates the AFM gets into the cylinders ruining the catalytic converters over time and that will happen in cases where it otherwise appears to be functioning, not outright failing. It also fowls the plugs in the cylinders where it’s worse. There is virtually no fuel savings from AFM from the measurements I before and after the feature was turned off. Good tips throughout, thanks.
I really like this format of reviewing/sharing common vehicle failures in hopes that others can become more knowledgeable of the kinds of problems they may experience and what things to keep an eye on so they can better prepare to budget for these repairs when they happen. Am looking forward to future episodes where the Wizard can share his experience/expertise on other common makes and models. Nice work! Cheers
When my lifter stuck in mine i went ahead and replaced all of these at once and not 10,000 miles later the transmission ate itself like you said. I’m getting ready to rebuild it but I’m really glad you made this video because now I know about the overdrive thing. No one ever told me that.
you sure you want to put more money into a car that has so many common problems?
@@ImGerald Sadly many people have to do this as it's still cheaper than buying another car. I still see PT Cruisers at times. Probably gonna be a rarity someday.
@@ImGerald see 20:00
@@TessaTheCat_ yeah you have a point there. Especially with the insane prices of used cars.
@@7x779 💯
Hey Wizard I’m a old fan here that’s been following your channel cents 2013 or 2014 I believe. I’m off & on watching your videos and I Enjoy every minute of them..
Really liked the tip on the transmission when hauling. Thats the trailer icon button to be used
Missed a few things... Radiators in any GM vehicle of this era tend to stress crack in the side tanks, usually around 150k-175k miles. Can't even begin to guess how many GM radiators I've replaced due to this. Will be doing my own here in a few days as well lol.
Another 4L60e failure that isn't really the transmissions fault (although it isn't the best design either) is the sun shell in them. When people shift from reverse to drive without bringing the vehicle to a stop first (such as when they are backing out of a parking spot and then throw it in drive while it is still rolling backwards), it tends to lead to a failure of the sun shell. It'll either crack at the base of the splines or the splines get physically stripped off of it.
Also, the plastic on both the interior and exterior door handles tend to break on the GMT800 (1999-2006) platform as well. The exterior handles people tend to pull them up and out when opening the door which fatigues the plastic. The interior ones have a structurally narrow point in the plastic and when they break they almost always break off right at the base of the handle. The plastic GMT800 truck tailgate handles are extremely common to break.
They may have some quirks but the 90's and early 2000s (up to 2006/7) GM trucks are the pinnacle of GM trucks and overall pretty well built. I have a GMT800 yukon xl that is rare and sought after due to it being a 3/4 ton with the 8.1L aka 496 big block in it. People try to buy it off me all the time. The answer is always "not for sale". I tow 7k lbs with it literally almost everyday (it has the 4l85e transmission, which is much stronger than the 4l60e). Even as a heavy hauler it is extremely reliable and I'm not about to give it up.
I thought the 8.1s had the 4L85e transmission no?
Temperature control module! Manual one not digital!
@@alecmurray8339 looks like he edited his comment and didn't say anything about you mentioning it
@@jonnardjackson2884 I have a digital temp controller, can I replace it with a manual one when it craps out?
@@rackaddict8227 I am not sure! But I don’t think so!
Up until early-mid 2000K's was peak Chevy/GM. Good solid reliable easy to work on yourself trucks. And those 'Like A Rock' commercials are stuck in my head to this day. Would love to see a review on the GMT 400 platforms 88-98. Still see them on the road daily from Suburbans to Yukons Sierras and Silverado/Cheyennes. Think Hoovey just bought a nice one recently as well.
Yup my 1990 Silverado had turbo 400 and 180000 mi . Still see em . I should of kept it .
My 2001 Sierra transmission gave out at 300K miles. The engine is still running fine, Knock on wood.
Bought a brand new 2000 Silverado extended cab 2WD that year. Regular oil changes, brake pads and transmission filter/fluid changes. At 333,085 miles 1st gear went out. I tow a lot so I replaced the bad 4L60e with a 4L80e and decided, despite the 5.3 cranking immediately, I'd replace it as well with an LY6 6.0 Gen IV. I deleted DOD, swapped original cam with a Trailblazer SS cam, long tube headers, 3" dual exhaust, larger DBC TB, electric fans and water pump. Every hose is now SS braided with AN fittings including radiator, a 3 row without transmission cooler. Separate transmission and oil coolers with thermostats. Practically everything is now new except the body and frame. I love that truck and will keep it to my last day.
Inherited my Dad's 2003 Yukon XL which currently has around 115,000 miles. I just had it's 4L60e rebuilt after a fluid/filter change yielded a non moving vehicle. I plan on keeping it to my last day as well.
I never tow in OD, I leave it in 3rd.
I have a 2006 GMC Envoy with the 5.3, the Oil Pressure Sensor failed at about 70k miles, but you are able to reach back there and replace it without taking the manifold off. Shop wanted something like $450 to do it, luckily I was able to buy the part and a full mechanics socket set for only $300ish
Thank you Car Wizard for your patience and words of wisdom, I’ve always helped out the best I could with friends and family in spite of my cancer and all the failed back spinal surgeries and pain it takes to keep up with my 05 silverado. I truly wished we had more human beings out there like you, but it’s unfortunately hard to find someone like yourself, one you could really count on for close honest advice. Keep up the great work you are an inspiration for every diy mechanic looking to save a few dollars to help stretch their budgets in these weird uncertain times. The days of helping one and other are gone I’m afraid.
I bought a 2007 Tahoe with the 5.3 new for my wife. It has 120k miles. I have replaced a lot of the parts you talk about, but I maintain all my vehicles, and I trust my mechanic. He knows I will say go ahead and do it. But really its been super reliable. I have offered to replace it for my wife several times she says, "No, its reliable" I think the key is keeping up with issues so its not one big bill.
You nailed it on the head, it's mostly small stuff and easy to keep up with if you maintain your vehicles properly. Every vehicle, regardless of make or model, has quirks. My 2003 Yukon XL is a rare 3/4 ton with the 496 big block in it. It is a sought after version because it is pretty rare and mine is also pretty darn clean at 176k miles. Most just see another suburban going down the road but some recognize it as the rare spec version that it is (8 lugs and its larger factory stance is a dead giveaway lol). I've been offered twice it's value many times, but I refuse to sell it. I use it to tow a 7k lb trailer for work almost everyday and it is far too reliable for me to part with it.
@@catfishbilly7425 Euro cars have more quirks. you'll be spending hundreds to thousands yearly if it's a 10 year old car. Maintaining them yourself is a must or else you have to be rich.
Sold my 07 Silverado with the 5.3 at 293k
Jeez, as a Toyota tech it's insane to me that stuff failing like this is considered normal
I bought 2013 Infiniti SUV , built in Japan with 180k miles. I replaced no parts at all, everything original, no check engine light, no leaks.
I own a 2000 and 2003 Subrban and a 2007 Yukon. They have been largely reliable until recently but they are high mileage vehicles. Currently dealing with an oil leak, AC blowing hot, misfiring, two with transmission issues, and an instrument cluster failure. You pretty much covered it all in this excellent video. Thanks!
Best video ever. I got a 2007 had oil sensor fail and thanks to you managed to sort it out. Much love from Sweden
Got all of them except 3 I have dealt with quite often. Gas cap seals setting off the evap code. The brake light switch failure that causes the cruise to turn off... all the time. Leaf springs, notorious for breaking.
@@labourlawact7826 leaf springs don't come to a stop.
@@labourlawact7826 I don't blame you, I blame the public school system, and the meth crisis.
@@beausw Yeah ☺
@@labourlawact7826 you got the queen's English right in your name. Happy labor day weekend! Cheers.
@@beausw I'm actually from Africa. ☺
I'm perfectly happy with my 1986 and 1996 GM vehicles. They still going!
Nobody asked
Used to have a 1996 Suburban SLE 1500 and it was great
rigo62982 you're a Douce
Easier and cheaper to work on
I have owned Chevrolets since 1994 and have been happy with all of them.
Hoovie sent me here. A good day.. I have 50+ years in the trade and I enjoy these videos. . Wizard is a no nonsense kind of a guy.
Thanks Wizard! This video was very helpful. I have many of these symptoms on my 2005 Chevy Tahoe. This was very reassuring. Thanks!
The wheel bearings on 1500's seemed to go quite frequently. I worked at an AutoZone that stocked 10 of them at a time
That's more of a problem with the aftermarket bearings. They factory ones do go bad on occasion, but if it gets replaced with one from AutoZone, OReilly's or any other aftermarket bearing... then you'll end up doing the job again a year later, and again another year after that, and again and again... it becomes an endless cycle. I had one customer that we warrantied the same wheel bearing 7 times in 4 years. I refuse to install the aftermarket ones anymore, especially ones for GMs. The aftermarket bearings for GMT800 trucks/suvs are absolute GARBAGE and in my experience seldom last more than 1.5 - 2 years. If you replace the bad bearing with an OE replacement bearing (which cost about $50 more for the part) then chances are you'll never have to replace it again.
@@catfishbilly7425 I have a ‘99 Sierra 1500. I’ve put probably half a dozen front hubs in it over the years between the left and right sides. First time was from corrosion killing the ABS sensor (NY winters) next couple were from cheap Autozone bearings. Finally sprung for the pricier hubs and they lasted till the sensors died again. You can buy just the sensors, but between the aluminum corroding and the plastic sensor housing they almost never come out.
My first one went after 18 years second one went at 20, spend the 200 bucks on good ones lol
I bought a 04 Suburban Z71 a little over a year ago and it's been great. There are a handful of issues but it's mostly little things. I honestly enjoy having the small projects. I get to learn of to fix it as I go along and so far I've had a 100% success rate. I feel that this year GM trucks were the last generation that was built to last. As long as you can keep them from rusting and treat them good they'll be good to you and your family. I love the body style also. The newer ones (07+) just don't have the handsome looks of the older generations. Long live the GMT-800!
I agree with you. I have an 04 Z71 Tahoe 4x4 and a 2012 Tahoe and I must say I love my 2004 more than any vehicle I've ever owned.
Nice chrome bumpers on the older trucks 👍
04 Avalanche, 185k and still going strong. Normal stuff, I'm surprised the ball joints are still good, I expected they'd need replaced 3 years ago. Iowa so it's just rusting away. Every time I think of trading I look at prices and what I'm "upgrading" to and just keep driving it. I'd love to find a clean, rust free replacement but they don't exist here, I'll have to go South for that.
Lol right 😂
@@richc9503 lol right Just another confidant Bow tie girl owner
I have to hand it to you Wizard, you nailed it.
I have already had, and repaired every one of your points except AFM (2001 doesn't have it), trans cooler lines, and 4l60E.
But ALL the other things you mentioned failed on my 2001 Tahoe before 150,000 miles.
This Tahoe is the same as mine, 07 Tahoe 2wd and the oil pressure sensor that you mentioned - I didn't like changing that one. Transmission went out while towing, and I was in tow mode. That oil filter bypass plated area, mine is currently leaking, 😅 Good info on this vehicle.
Also worth mentioning if you buy a 2008-2009 Denali/Escalade/Suburban with the 6.2 they won’t have any of the AFM hardware. 2007 had the hardware but was never active but in 2008/2009 they removed it entirely. 2010 was the first year they had the hardware and was fully active.
I’m looking at a 2010 chevy tahoe with 300k mikes yeah yeah I know a lot of miles , but drives really good, interior/exterior looks really good, any advice on this? Is it worth getting it?
Definitely get it.. I have had all these problems with my Tahoe but I still enjoy my Tahoe over my 323i.
I always look forward to the “Bob Ross of mechanics” dropping a new video.. Love you man.
so funny but true! Except that painting and fixing cars generate different emotions!
@@jamesmedina2062 Facts. I bet Bob Ross never skinned any knuckles with a paint brush.
Evap sensor on top of the engine. It was about $24 when I replaced it myself.
Awesome and value filled video! Only thing I can think of is the air suspension compressor goes out frequently and gives a service suspension code. Imma go look at my 07 Escalade and check out the stuff mentioned!
Got a 2004 GMC SIERRA 5.3 with 315,000 plus....besides regular maintenance parts, two alternators, three water pumps, one knock sensor and one oil sending unit she still runs great! Not sure why but a few of the relays were failing....replaced all relays...all good now! 👍
One thing that I have found on this particular model and year of Silverado and Tahoe is that all of the plastic on the dash and the knee bolsters turn into glass basically. The minute you go to try to take it apart after they age the plastic just shatters in your hand we tell customers that if we have to take their dash apart expect to have to pay for replacement parts
thats most GM vehicles in my experience...they cut so many corners on the interior unless its a cadillac
This is the problem that I'm running into. I'm also having problems finding replacement parts for the inside without the price gouging.
I have a 2002 Silverado LT that I inherited from my dad , and a 2003 Tahoe I purchased from my brother. Both of these were purchased new by my family members and have been garage kept in the south since new. I have found these factors to be a major reason that I don't have most of the problems in the video. I'm amazed at the corrosion I see under the hood when I watch videos like this.
Great video! Yep, my hand is up with the ABS light. Will try to get to the box soon to resolder it. I have a 2002 Suburban with the 5.3L engine. Knock sesnors were bad on it. Replaced and still bad so I got another set and installed them on passenger side engine head. There are two hole perfect for the knock sensors.
You make some of the most helpful videos. I have a 2004 gmc with the 5.3. I had multiple issues from this video that answered what I needed to do on my own truck. Probably saving me thousands. Thank you wizard! You deserve your success.
We have an 03 Yukon Denali that we’ve owned since brand new and it has been the most reliable vehicle we have ever owned. I can count on one hand the times we have had to replace or fix a broken part. Of course we maintain the vehicle and don’t beat on it. It still looks and drives like new with 156k miles on it.
I should hope so with only 150k.
I have a rusty old 96 Tahoe with the Vortec V8. 340K on the odemeter. Only major repairs was a worn out brake line. I don't count things like tires, brakes, exhaust, etc.
@@stansmith4054 ol' faithful, the Chevy 350, R.I.P.
@@EvanDickersonM81 Anyone who expects a 19 year old vehicle with 150k on it to run and look like new is living in la la land
@@stansmith4054 repair*
Trials and tribulations of auto mechanics are unsurpassed by any other means love your videos straight to the point with no BS. I can't count how many GM's I've done all of this to I guessed it there to keep us busy
Thanks Wizard, I have a 247,000 mile 2009, I’ve taken care of most of what you said, will look into the ABS sensor and oil pressure sending unit. For most daily driving & towing, I leave the gear selector in “5th” never leaves v8 mode, saves on trans shifting. How did I miss this 5 months ago? Oh ya, was under my burban on the weekends….
The 5.3 Chevy (pre AFM) will always be one of my favorites everything about them is just simple and reliable for the most part.
The AFM engines aren’t that bad tbh
I have 165k miles on my 2014 Silverado and yea it has a lifter tick but who cares
On our 2013 Silverado it has 280k miles and no lifter tick
@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit I got 167K out of my 2008 Silverado, it started with a small tick in the morning then progressively increased till it started to misfire, I got a GM crate engine installed and also installed a de-activator for the AFM, with the price of trucks it was worth it since the rest of the vehicle is in good shape.
@@edc6333 my 2011 Chevy Suburban LT has 304,500 miles and it's still going strong, and still has the crappy AFM system! All we did was oil/filter changes every 5000 miles, air filter as needed, transmission oil changes every 30,000 miles (as well as rear diff), coolant flushes every 50,000 miles, new spark plugs and coils every 100,000miles as well as the water pump, Vbelt every 50,000 miles.
@@Nanaehhco45 Thats pretty damn good!
My 07 Av with AFM has a 180k miles and runs smooth and silent still.
Maintenance is key.
I actually took notes being that in my family there are at least 4 of these and guess who they call. Now I can say sure let me look. Thanks Wizard 👍
man i still remember this guy wizard man i dropped out of college to pursue my car selling dreams. this guy was sanding down a mustang i love you wizard.
Just purchase an 02 Tahoe the information you just gave is absolute Paramount to a person is not a mechanic such as myself I appreciate the heads-up and I bet there is a lot more but for now I do appreciate it. Everything you mentioned as a non mechanic I believe I can do myself thanks again.
Own nothing but GM vehicles and these years you covered are some of the best ones I’ve ever had. Dealt with several of these issues but they’re relatively easy to fix and the pre AFM motors will run forever. I still trust these over some other brands.
Legend has it: The Car Wizard can hear sign language.
i just subscribed brother i love ur videos. i picked up an 06 Lm7 Lt3 z71 almost a year ago and there’s small things here n there like some u mentioned but other than that it hasn’t left me stranded. i’m also navy so i drive back n forth from base to my folks when i can. keep up the great work
Awesome video. Just helped me diagnose and most likely fix 3 issues with my 02 tahoe. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
Another thing as well to help preserve the life of the transmission, is to get the fluid and filter changed in regular intervals. Overtime the fluid can become dark and sometimes burnt. It loses its protective minerals and can no longer protect your transmission. It's a fairly easy job to do yourself, although messy. I wish GM would use a drain plug on the transmission pans as well.
You can buy from Amazon a transmission pan with a drain plug built in..
Mine has 364k miles and the transmission fluid has never been changed. I've owned the truck since 56k. I know I should have done it, but my bad, I never did it. Still shifting fine although I wouldn't even consider changing the fluid now. I've been told the transmission is the weak point of this truck. but you'd never know it from my experience.
This is some phenomenal stuff. One of my favorite most informative videos I've seen. I'm sure more than one person has posted something like this and it is well deserved.
I have to agree that early 2000 suburbans were the most reliable. This is kinda funny but true… yesterday my granddaughter came to visit, we were checking the air in her Ford Focus tires because her tire pressure light was on. When we finished with her car she asked if I wanted to check my sub and truck, I said sure. She then asked if we were taking the truck or sub for the trip to her fathers, (my son). I told her it would be the suburban. She then remarked that she doesn’t remember us ever having another vehicles. I told her that she wouldn’t because she was just 3 years old in 02 when I bought my Silverado Duramax and the Suburban new! They just don’t make them like they used to!
Spot on video!
I bought a brand new 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3 loaded.4x4. I live in New Jersey.
This vehicle never missed a scheduled maintance.
Never towed anything.
Never off roading.
And it snows about once a year in NJ and it was washed regularly after road saltings.
I had it 10 years and at 90,000 miles had enough.
Instrument cluster ✔
Belt tensioner ✔
Coil failure ✔
Exaust manifold bolt ✔
ABS failure lights ✔
Brake lines all rusted out and failed one by one ✔
The frame looked like someone threw acid on it at 90 k miles.
I recieved a recall notice about the frame rust but when I brought the vehicle back to Chevrolet I was informed my vehicle was not in the range of vehicles in question by 350.
Dont get me wrong the 5.3 v8 was a beast .
I was always a Chevy guy up to that point but am now in a Ford F 150 king cab and never will go back.
FYI my neighbor has a 2013 Tahoe LT and GM never put cabin air filters in them. It has a musty stink . Breathing not an option for GM
Love the glasses man.
You are 100% correct on your points. I’ve been in auto parts for over a decade and I thank God for the GM full size variants. They keep my doors open.
Never knew about the overdrive on the 4L60s.
That’s great information to have.
You didn’t mention the vapor canisters back at the gas tank or the solenoid under the hood. I’ve sold a bunch of those over the years. Great channel. Been watching for years now. TTYL ✌️
I really like these kinds of videos - covering the “whats going to beeak on xyz vehicle”. Super helpful. Please do more. Especially with all the “must buy electric” stupidity occuring right now - older gas cars are going to need people keeping them on the road longer and longer.
Never had an engine issue with my 2011 Silverado with AFM. I’m religious with oil changes for all my vehicles and won’t go a mile past 5k between changes. I think that is a huge part of these engines. I had over 170k when I sold it and the only thing I noticed was the valve cover was beginning to seep oil. It was a solid truck, really thinking about buying another one
Picked a 2006 Suburban up for CHEAP because they had that oil pressure sending unit fail, but a shop quoted them $2k for a RMS replacement with no guarantee there wasn't engine damage from 0 oil pressure. $20 part and I was one happy buddy!