@@MauiWauiPineappleExpress that is if you are paying someone to install it and you are buying the sending unit. If you are buying a bare fuel pump and doing it yourself you can do it for under 75 dollars for everything.
I picked up a 2004 Gmc Yukon XL SLT Loaded. Paid $2800 back in May of this year. Fastforward to now I have put almost 50,000km on it and all i've done is oil changes, trans and diff fluid changes, a cv axle, a ujoint, tierods and an evap purge valve. It has 420,000km on it. I couldn't be happier with my cheap purchase.
Two of my three 2UZs have had timing belt/water pump service lately at over 260k miles. The other just hit 50k, and I'm replacing it due to age even though it "looks" brand new. Take care of them, and they'll take care of you.
@@connor3288 Both look new, but the belt is almost 20 years old on the '04 Tundra I just bought. I'll do the labor and just replace the belt. Not that big of a deal, and I'd rather know it's new.
@@alabama2uzage is definitely something a lot of people neglect. Appearance can only go so far on parts that are supposed to wear and tear over time. If it looks good after all these years it wouldn't be surprising if it cracked and broke with light usage
@@Fony_turgeson Yep, smdh. Seen a bunch of clips where mechanics showed a timing belt in terrible condition, dry cracked, frayed, and still not broken. Obviously no belt should ever achieve that condition if maintainence schedule is followed, and easy enough to inspect belt condition occasionally.
To add to the maintenance list for the first gen Sequoias . The lower ball joints are a common issue and any honest mechanic would recommend getting OEM . And If you’re looking at 05-07 Sequoia another issue could be the SAIS . If you’re looking for a sequoia the 03-04 are the more desirable but the 05-07 get a slightly better gas mileage. And the 4x4 on these rigs are pretty good.
@@petercollingwood522 Secondary air injection system. There's a pump under the intake manifold on the later 2uz's that pushes air straight into the exhaust on cold starts to warm up the catalytic converters quicker. It's the vacuum cleaner type sound you may have heard before. Really only there to satisfy the EPA and $$$ when it breaks so it's easiest to bypass the system.
Excellent video, Mr Wizard! This is the first time I recall you stating the the 5.4 Triton "can be" a reliable engine IF the engine oil is changed and oil levels are maintained. There are so many example of these engines with 250k+ miles on them with the original timing gear (go to Autotrader, and see for yourself!). You're right though: low oil/skipped oil changes will kill the 5.4 3v engines, leading to premature failure. But, they can have a long(er) service life with frequent oil changes. And, for the $1200 timing belt/water pump change on the Toyota/Lexus products every 90k miles, $3,000 can change the timing on the Ford at 180k miles if it fails (IF). It's sort of a wash in this regard, except the Toyotas cost much more to buy, and still may have the trans issues. The concept of looking at these vehicles as a total cost, flaws included, is spot on!
I changed the starter and battery on my 2017 chev Silverado this year. Did the work myself. $450 all in. The starter on these trucks are easy to change.
In the Armada, you do not have to drop the fuel tank. There is a cover over the fuel pump under the second row seat right behind the driver that puts you right in the fuel pump.
@GMCJay_lly skip the 6.0 the 8.1 is the superior motor across the lineup my family has owned something like 50 gmt 400 and 800 models for personal or construction plow trucks suvs for the family chevy and gmc trucks are king from that era , and the mighty 8.1 sits at the top !!! Also the 8.1 with the Allison transmission is far superior to the 8.1 with the 4l80 ... definitely check it out... but I've literally had all of the 305 sbc 350 sbc 454 BBC 5.3 6.0 8.1 in numerous trucks and suvs driven by myself on the regular like I said something like 50 different trucks and suvs and my current truck is a 8.1 I'll never get rid of it !!! My current family hauler is a 5.3 tahoe ... will drive it till it dies ,,, has 304965 thousand miles currently with the original motor and trans ....
8:46 The other frequent failure point for these was rotted out frames. My wife and I live in the Midwest rust belt and wanted a firts gen Sequoia. Finally had to give up and buy something else because we couldn't find one that had a solid enough frame to tow our small (3500 lb) camper without doubling our budget
I own a 03 gmc jukon that has 230.000 miles on it and it still runs great. I have put a water pump a well bearing on it but as the motor it still runs smooth and great
I wish I never sold my 03 Yukon Denali. It could do everything I needed in a vehicle. 6L engine AWD comfortable for long 12 hour trips. Used it like a pickup when the 3rd role seats were removed. The dog loved it too.
Also, the reason why the starter is expensive to replace on the Toyota 4.7L V8 is because the starter is located in the "V" area of the engine, which means that the intake manifold has to be removed. That's the reason for the high labor cost.
I have an 08 4Runner with 185,000 miles on the original starter. When it goes, I’ll do the starter, valve cover gaskets, and secondary air injection at the same time.
yup, all UZ V8s have their starters mounted to the top of the flywheel instead of the bottom, and you might as well do intake manifold gasket and knock sensors while you’re in there.
Bought my 06 Expedition with 214k miles off my brother. it now has 226k miles. and the only "major" repair i had to make was a noise roller rocker. didn't take me long at all. I absolutely love that truck, its an absolute tank. It wasn't the smartest idea buying it as a first vehicle, but i got it from my brother for a really good price. And thankfully I'm mechanically inclined to where i don't have to deal with shop rejections and extremely high maintenance fees. expeditions are great, as long as you can fix them yourself, and you buy one with a good service history.
I'd say if you bought one of the GM vehicles mentioned in that year range and it's in good shape (not ticking), the best investment I think you can make is to do a full AFM delete. Costs a bit of money but will pay dividends in the years to come afterwards, because it's either that or you're looking at a new (rebuilt) motor which costs at least the same amount. Or you could buy a rebuilt motor that already has the delete kit installed but somtimes these tend to be a bit more expensive obviously than a standard rebuilt engine with AFM. But it will be worth it if you do the delete kit (which basically replaces the collapsable lifters with solid lifters and disabled the AFM software). (OK the price has probably gone up, but I remember checking back in around 2020, and it was about $3500 to pay someone to do it. The parts themselves at the time were about $1500 if you bought a new cam with it). One thing that was omitted I think for the GM vehicles that was somewhat common, was the o-ring in the pick-up tube in the oil pain would sometimes come apart or break, causing the engine to not draw the proper amount of oil up (thus low oil pressure). This isn't a huge job, but it does require dropping the oil pan. On my 2013 Silverado I had to replace the oil pump because it was registering low oil pressure. Luckily I caught it in time, where it was on the low-end of what GM said was acceptable oil pressure, otherwise I would have had suffered a siezed motor probably. After that was done, of course it continue to run fine until about 180k when I sold it (still runs today as the buyer is still driving it). Also when it comes to oil pressure, be careful because a dealer witll tell you that at idle- 12-15 psi is normal, but it's not. My reserach has told me that about 20 psi is minimum at idle and you really need at least 35 psi+ at highway speeds is what I remember mine being when it was new and sort of the metric I saw people (mechanics) mention on forums (I believe at 35-38 psi this is when the AFM system is activated as it's operated by oil pressure). 5k mile oil changes are OK, although I later found that I probably should have done it more often like every 3-4k miles, although mine never developed the collapsed lifter, but it did start to burn oil due to the AFM system which is a commonly known problem with this system (I believe it causes excessive wear on the rings when AFM is active as those cylinders where it seems to develop, are not firing -- although some say that the first and second cylinders are more prone to wear because of how the engine sits at a slight angle as well).
One thing I Forgot to mention that I considered was to do an engine swap... get a rebuilt 4.8L V8, which only puts out about 5% less power than the 5.3L version (which all of the 5.3L's were AFM but some of the 4.8L's apparently aren't -- some are or maybe none are, but the 5.3L's were). So if you don't mind 300 HP vs 315 HP, you could also look into swapping for a 4.8L non-AFM engine or even the 6.2L which I don't think had AFM either, and not have to worry about it again. You could probably buy a 4.8L rebuilt engine for about as much as you'd pay to have the lifters done (again, this is based on pricing from a few years ago, but it likely isn't that much more at least just for the motor -- installation will probably make it a $6 or $7k job). You do have to be careful, but since the 6- speed automatic was an option for the 4.8L it should be a suitable replacement for the 5.3L. Some programing will probably need to be done, as the engine computer and trans PCM/computer will need to be replaced or reprogrammed.
GMT 900 Trucks would benefit from the AFM delete as you mentioned. Also, a high pressure oil pump, a 40k unit transmission cooler and a high performance thermostat alongside reprogramming the fans. These would make them like tanks. Almost as reliable as a Land Cruiser even.
Oh the infamous 4.7 toyota woahs. Timing belt driven water pump and under tge intake starter. Toyota got rid of both of those problems when they rolled out the replacement 4.6 motor. The 4.6 is a timing chain, belt driven water pump, and block mount starter.
Pre-DOD GM trucks and SUVs are really the way to go. Not too old, but new enough to be comfortable and capable. After 180K miles, my 02' Tahoe has only needed a fuel pump and regular maintenance. Never had a check engine light on, only one brake job, original 4L60E with plenty of towing done.
I really love my Escalade. I'm saving for if/when the engine goes. If the 4.7 doesn't go first in Wj. Both are very nice condition. The Jeep I have for 9 yrs. And first thing I did was change ALL fluids. Also a lot of engine parts ( just because I knew I was going to long arm lift on it) . I usually keep my vehicles until someone slams into them. I kinda want to get a 2023 Escalade but new GN's just seem to have so many issues. Since retirement is down the road, znd my 3 midlife crisis is also maybe a new Corvette with bumper to bumper warranty lol.
I loved my 05 Sequoia. 05-07 have the 5-speed auto and 30hp more with vvti. 03-04 have a 4 speed auto but it has upgraded internals over the earlier ones and 4x4 is a direct swap. They're pretty easy to swap except the stupid starter. 😂 05+ also had rear air suspension in limiteds and sr5 sport. Probably shot by now. Easy to swap to springs. I sold mine before I deployed at 300k because I didn't want it sitting while I was gone. The guy I sold it to is still driving it. I am shopping for another (or maybe a 4runner or gx470) because I really liked it and have added another kid since I sold it. The 2nd and 3rd gen have significantly less room behind the 3rd row.
I have a 2012 Expedition King Ranch that I bought at a Ford dealership in October of 2022 with only 39k miles. I now have 46k miles and I'm about to do my second oil change. I think it'll last a long time by changing the oil every 3500 miles.
On the 5.4 3V, the worst issue is not timing chain or phasers, but roller followers. These are what grenade the engine if the retention clip and spring are displaced. The valve falls into the cylinder. FordtechMakuloco does timing chain and phaser jobs all the time. But you have to replace the roller followers. They are the ticking time bombs.
@@lbrown7164 Comparing apples to apples, I would take a 5.3 Chevy from 2004-2006 all day long over a similar year 5.4 3v. 2007-2014 5.3 Chevy, I would also take that all day long over a 5.4l 3v.
@@theshield1613 I have owned a few with over 200k as well. I wrench on them, so I am not afraid of them. Last one I did I had the passenger cam out in 45 minutes and it was still hot. Roller rocker locked up and took out a lobe.
The chevy is a very good choice. They're also becoming more common in the junk yard. I knew alot that had the same platform and they just kept on going. The ford is also a decent option. The 5.4 3v does have it's issues. I own one so I know. The best advice I can give on these is to make sure it got the timing job done first or you plan to do it. If you don't plan to have this truck for long, then just keep using it till it quits. Personally the 5.4 ain't that bad as a engine. It just gets a bad wrap. But alot of these are still going well over 100k. I replaced all the timing stuff because I felt it was the right thing to do. The phasers were clicking, but no actual issues. Make sure you run 5w30 also.
I love my 1997 c2500 chevrolet suburban 6.5 turbo diesel, I do all my own work so i only pay for parts and 2wd diesel mileage is unbeatable for a truck that does heavy pulling several times a week. 11 years ownership and 400,000 miles on the clock and i'm still loving it.
Car Wizard is so chill; yet never fails to share important information. If I were in Kansas (or if he were in Alabama), then I'd recommend his shop without hesitation.
I can't tell you how many of these videos that I've watched and you've saved my arse!! Thank you so much for taking the time to do these very informative reviews.
Can’t believe I got a like!😂 Mr. Wizard, just want to say thanks for all the great content! I’ve been a tech for about 4 years now. I have watched, learned, and looked up to you since the beginning, your one of the best! Thank you for helping me become a better tech. Happy Sunday!
Got a 2004 Sequoia 4WD in 2020. Had 154k miles. Now 180k. Paid $4000. No major issues. Heavy on gas, but that's par for the course. Great for utility and leisure. Got Denso water pump and timing belt kit for $170 from Amazon, my local mechanic fitted for $400. If starter goes bad will replace it myself.
I had an '05 QX56 for a while, engine & transmission were brilliant despite 220k+ miles. The biggest issues it had were bad HVAC actuators that required the entire dash disassembly to replace a couple of them, a bad instrument cluster (had it rebuilt for $300), and there were loads of random electronic problems - nothing major but a number were pretty annoying at times. I'm sure the early years of that generation had more of this than the later ones however, in 2008 they made some mods to the engine to gain some power, but at the cost of requiring premium fuel, adding insult to the pre-existing low mileage injury. My mileage on it wasn't as bad as Wizard states here but it was pretty bad - about 11 or 12 around town, 17-18 highway. I did really enjoy it though, made a nice overlander/camping rig. Sold it and now have a '12 Yukon that is great. I really wish other OEMs would have used a simpler V8 engine design like GM had/has with the LS-based Vortecs. I was at a gas station the other day and premium was $.90 (!) more per gallon than regular unleaded. The Yukon's 5.3 is flex fuel so it can run on any grade or combination of unleaded gas or E85 which is quite a bit cheaper but gets about 2-2.5 mpg less.
I don't know how much the cost would swing, but you might include a full brake service as a 4th repair that will have to be done on every car at some point.
The rear hatch/door handle is really problematic on the Sequoia. It breaks and can be a real pain to replace. Full timing belt/water pump, etc change is 800-900 bucks, not 1,400. I've had it done twice.. at 100k and 200k. I currently have 210k on my '06
Would have been worth mentioning that the LX470 sitting behind you is going to have nearly identical preventable issues as the Sequoia since it's the same 2UZ engine. Same starter in the middle of the V, same timing belt/water pump, and I believe same fuel pump. Having just dumped a 2003 Sequoia w 290k miles and a dead transmission, I can vouch for those issues. Got it cheap, ran it hard, and it owed me no favors. There is no way on Earth you're getting 19 MPG out of one of those though.
I have a 2007 suburban with 292k miles. One of the lifters started ticking about 12k miles ago on cold starts . Still going strong. Once the engine fails I might just buy a brand new engine instead of trying to gamble on trying to find a well maintained one.
I’d be interested in a video or two on minivans. I just had one of my kids door ding a really nice, late model RAV 4 and it cost me $750. Those sliding doors sound really good now.
I do like how less stressful bigger engines work and how simpler they seem to be compared to newer downsized ones. Of course the fuel economy is not the same but with a little effort they can be not the dinosaur like 😂 but the savings on maintenance if well kept can be huge.
The smaller engines are high strung and stressed to the maximum. There are many reasons why older V8's can be bored and stroked for far more power. Just adding a turbo means way higher maintenance. In aircraft, the same basic engine is restricted to half the serviceable hours if its turbocharged.
I have a 2014 Escalade, worst problem I had was all the chrome delaminated from the rims and corrosion set it, it's at 80k miles now, just replaced all oxygen sensors, only other issue was improving the battery to engine ground cable. I always change oil at 50% notice, Pennzoil Platinum mixed with Amzoil, and I use Marvel oil in oil and fuel. And I replaced all brakes and rotors. I will buy another maybe next year.
Thanks! You just showed that is better to buy a good old American SUV than an import one. How come you didn’t put the Dodge Durango in to close the circle?
Really great video as always but a couple of points. You didn't mention a brake job on any of these. Brakes are going to fail before before a water pump or starter and I imagine the price will vary between these different models. You also titled the video "Buy This, Not That" but you didn't mention any lemons! I was so looking forward to the Jeep bashing again. I might just lose sleep over it.
First time hearing about the Sequoia transmission issue - I have a first gen, no problem. The rest is spot on. But in terms of looks, quality and reliability - Toyota Sequoia is in another league compared to the other 3 SUV's,
Nobody is going to tell me a Tahoe or Expedition looks nicer than a sequoia. They are all plain boxes. The sequoia is great because the 2UZ is bulletproof. Never heard of transmission failures.
He said Toyotas have transmission issues never heard of that in any Toyota lol. Even the CVT transmission that Toyota use on some of their cars I still don’t hear those having problems
The 5.4 can be a very reliable engine if properly maintained. The key word is if. Now they’re almost 20 years old finding a 5.4 that you know was properly maintained will be hard. Of course that is true for any modern used vehicle.
Seems to be real-world prices to me. In the late 90's I owned a 91 Olds Cutlass Supreme and a 89 Pontiac Grand Prix. They were practically the same car just different body style and options. The fuel pump went out in the Olds, and the dealer charged $225 to fix it. Then when the fuel pump in the Gran Prix was going bad, I got rid of it (did have it for 6 years). To hear that almost 25 years later that a fuel pump job will cost $900, I'm not surprised. Sure I wouldn't be happy to pay for it, but I wasn't happy to pay $225 back in 1998.
Yep, starters on the old Sequoias are pretty involved, on the UZ V8s they are under the intake and it is not fun to do. Also on the later models you have air injection which is under the intake as well, when that goes it is a nightmare if you want to replace the system. When I did one it was 8 hours and I replaced the starter while I was in there. Never really seen a transmission on one of those fail that wasn’t high mileage.
love that lexus sitting behind you. picked up an 08 gx470 and I love it.
Год назад+4
Hey, @CarWizard I have a Lovely 2005 Ford F-150 with the 3Valve 5.4, It's in great condition right now... What should I do NOW to make sure it's gonna last (other than regular Oil changes) ? Should I look at the cam phasers? Replace them and the chains? The truck has done 178000km or 120.000 miles
A new 1st gen Sequoia was in the 30K range. Considering the cost of a new Sequoia today > 80K, and also considering the lack of good 'gen 1 examples' for sale (people keep them), makes the costs of repairs seem low. I have the same motor in a Tundra, starter just gave out after 23 years, about 200$ for the 'toyota part' part. Not hard to install but does take some time. I spent most of the time cleaning the rat habitat under the intake, after the weight reduction my MPG increased by 1.
I do like these kinds of videos. Can you do one of the more modern midsize SUV's like Cadillac XT5, Lincoln Nautilus, Dodge Durango/Grand Cherokee, whatever other relevant models from Lexus/Toyota and such?
Would have liked to know for the 6-10k price range what mileage where the vehicles versus how much life they might reasonably have left. I know sequoia are usually more expensive than Chevy and sometimes with more miles.
Awesome video! Its worth mentioning that GM 4.8L does not have AFM. I know I'm medium to advanced level on the DIYer scale, but long or missed oil changes on trucks are baffling to me. Not all, but a very good number of the older ones can have the oil changed without jacking the vehicle as long as you're on the medium or thinner side and can slide under. Grab a box wrench, loosen the drain plug, slide the drain pan underneath, and remove the drain plug with your fingers. THATS IT!!! Some filters can be tricky, but once you get the old one off, get a FRAM or a K&N. Frams come with grippy coating on the head and KNs have a hex knob tacked on for easy removal. Anytime you're doing a timing belt on a motor with a water pump that runs off of the timing, its standard practice to replace it the same way you replace the tensioner. Here's the unfortunate reality of the used cars market. There are lots of well maintained vehicles out there, but those won't be the ones for sale in a hurry. A good number will be put up for sale when the current owner discovers a very expensive repair coming soon even though the vehicle still runs well with no warning lights or obvious big money noises. Case in point. Actually an 07 4.8 Tahoe where i met a side customer to do oil change on that and another vehicle. About 160k miles and no signs of major issues. When i undid the drain plug that already had damaged threads by the last guy, lots and lots of metal glitter came out with the last quart of old oil. Even more when i poured in a quart to wash things down. Shockingly enough, the motor sounded and ran just fine. No noises or check engine light. I advised the customer to avoid driving the vehicle and sell it immediately.
I 2nd that but wizard is not s minivan guy. I have a 2016 odyssey I got new and I can say with minivans its the little things that make the big difference. Look at what you need and buy on that. For me i required 3 car seats in the 2nd row so... 1 toyota sienna- no 2nd row middle seat latch anchors and it drove like a bus. Eliminated 2 dodge grand caravan- cheap but no 2nd row seat. Eliminated. 3 kia sedona- 2nd row seats not removeable. Eliminated 4. Honda odyssey, drove like a car and has latch anchors in all 3 2nd row seats. Buy even though i was well aware of hondas tranny troubled past.
I replaced the fuel pump on a Tahoe and I got the bare fuel pump with filter for 38 dollars. And did it out in the driveway in less than 2 hours. Total cost 55 dollars as I replaced clamps and hoses as well on the top of the sending unit.
I know a guy that sold his Lexus LS400 and bough a Yukon. He had just under 100k miles and is on his 3rd fuel pump. No trap door so the tank has to be dropped each time to replace. Very expensive to do.
I have learned a lot from your channel. I have 2001 Mercedes e320. Got it with 60k miles. It’s solid but I have more in repairs then I bought the car for 2 years ago for $3800
Thanks for your information. Quick question. What is your take on Jasper engines and transmissions? Are they well made or is it all fluff. I respect your opinion.
Im a food delivery guy (Door Dash, Uber eats) i have an honda accord but need a bigger suv for groceries. Would you please post a video on what type of car would be good for our high mileage profession. (Rav, crv,pilot, etc.) PLEASE and thank you so much for these type of videos. God Bless!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Favorite series: car wizard sits and chats with us. Informing us with his priceless knowledge
Yeah and also not having to hear his wife yapping
priceless? this time its nothing but prices!
@@Dreddy72🥁
I love these too.
seriously though, his knowledge is invaluable. Where else could you learn these things he shares without being in the auto industry for years
Car Wizard is better than Consumer Reports. This man is a national treasure.
I like the LX behind you.
I just replaced the fuel pump in my 2011 GMC Yukon Denali XL, it cost me $788 with $100 discount included, Wizard is spot on!
That's expensive!
@@MauiWauiPineappleExpress Not really.
@@MauiWauiPineappleExpress not if you need to hire another male, to do the work you can't do.
@@petercollingwood522Not everyone has an extra $800 lying around 👀
@@MauiWauiPineappleExpress that is if you are paying someone to install it and you are buying the sending unit. If you are buying a bare fuel pump and doing it yourself you can do it for under 75 dollars for everything.
I picked up a 2004 Gmc Yukon XL SLT Loaded. Paid $2800 back in May of this year. Fastforward to now I have put almost 50,000km on it and all i've done is oil changes, trans and diff fluid changes, a cv axle, a ujoint, tierods and an evap purge valve. It has 420,000km on it. I couldn't be happier with my cheap purchase.
Two of my three 2UZs have had timing belt/water pump service lately at over 260k miles. The other just hit 50k, and I'm replacing it due to age even though it "looks" brand new.
Take care of them, and they'll take care of you.
The belt or car looks new? On my car if belt condition looked good, no cracks/pliable/not dryed out, and under the mileage interval, I would run it.
@@connor3288 Both look new, but the belt is almost 20 years old on the '04 Tundra I just bought. I'll do the labor and just replace the belt. Not that big of a deal, and I'd rather know it's new.
@@alabama2uzage is definitely something a lot of people neglect. Appearance can only go so far on parts that are supposed to wear and tear over time. If it looks good after all these years it wouldn't be surprising if it cracked and broke with light usage
people put too much into timing belts they hardly ever break just like a serpentine belt same thing if looks fine leave it
@@Fony_turgeson Yep, smdh. Seen a bunch of clips where mechanics showed a timing belt in terrible condition, dry cracked, frayed, and still not broken. Obviously no belt should ever achieve that condition if maintainence schedule is followed, and easy enough to inspect belt condition occasionally.
Tires tires tires. The big ignored expenise of SUVs
Most have 4...
To add to the maintenance list for the first gen Sequoias . The lower ball joints are a common issue and any honest mechanic would recommend getting OEM . And If you’re looking at 05-07 Sequoia another issue could be the SAIS . If you’re looking for a sequoia the 03-04 are the more desirable but the 05-07 get a slightly better gas mileage. And the 4x4 on these rigs are pretty good.
The SAIS can be bypassed easily.
What's SAIS?
@@petercollingwood522 You know that google is a thing and it's free, right?
@@petercollingwood522 secondary air injection system
@@petercollingwood522 Secondary air injection system. There's a pump under the intake manifold on the later 2uz's that pushes air straight into the exhaust on cold starts to warm up the catalytic converters quicker. It's the vacuum cleaner type sound you may have heard before. Really only there to satisfy the EPA and $$$ when it breaks so it's easiest to bypass the system.
Dude you’re already almost to 1 million followers. Talk about crazy fast growth - well deserved! You’re my favorite mechanic to watch by far
Excellent video, Mr Wizard! This is the first time I recall you stating the the 5.4 Triton "can be" a reliable engine IF the engine oil is changed and oil levels are maintained. There are so many example of these engines with 250k+ miles on them with the original timing gear (go to Autotrader, and see for yourself!). You're right though: low oil/skipped oil changes will kill the 5.4 3v engines, leading to premature failure. But, they can have a long(er) service life with frequent oil changes. And, for the $1200 timing belt/water pump change on the Toyota/Lexus products every 90k miles, $3,000 can change the timing on the Ford at 180k miles if it fails (IF). It's sort of a wash in this regard, except the Toyotas cost much more to buy, and still may have the trans issues. The concept of looking at these vehicles as a total cost, flaws included, is spot on!
I changed the starter and battery on my 2017 chev Silverado this year. Did the work myself. $450 all in. The starter on these trucks are easy to change.
These wizard chats are worth an hourly labor rate. They’ve probably saved the audience tens of thousands across the whole lineup
Yeah honestly if Car Wizard starts a patreon with these videos I'd pay for it
00-06 Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/XL for the win!
Great DIY vehicles & rust free in So Cal & AZ.
In the Armada, you do not have to drop the fuel tank. There is a cover over the fuel pump under the second row seat right behind the driver that puts you right in the fuel pump.
Just purchased a 2005 Avalanche 2500 4X4 with an 8.1 Big Block from the original owner . Overlooked truck but bulletproof .
My father in law ownes 3 of them and I own a 8.1 2500 hd pickup they are Absolutely bulletproof
Considering trading/selling my ccsb 4x4 lly for a rust free clean 8.1. Or maybe a 6.0 QuadraSteer. I love the GMT-800 platform.
You guys are on the money ! Also have a GMC 2500HD 4X4 , 6.0 , G80 , 4.10 .
@@GMCJay_lly
@GMCJay_lly skip the 6.0 the 8.1 is the superior motor across the lineup my family has owned something like 50 gmt 400 and 800 models for personal or construction plow trucks suvs for the family chevy and gmc trucks are king from that era , and the mighty 8.1 sits at the top !!! Also the 8.1 with the Allison transmission is far superior to the 8.1 with the 4l80 ... definitely check it out... but I've literally had all of the 305 sbc 350 sbc 454 BBC 5.3 6.0 8.1 in numerous trucks and suvs driven by myself on the regular like I said something like 50 different trucks and suvs and my current truck is a 8.1 I'll never get rid of it !!! My current family hauler is a 5.3 tahoe ... will drive it till it dies ,,, has 304965 thousand miles currently with the original motor and trans ....
@@mrgmc6314 What's the fuel consumption of the 8.1?
8:46 The other frequent failure point for these was rotted out frames. My wife and I live in the Midwest rust belt and wanted a firts gen Sequoia. Finally had to give up and buy something else because we couldn't find one that had a solid enough frame to tow our small (3500 lb) camper without doubling our budget
I have a sequoia with 240k miles , still runs new everything works
That cat problem on the nissan v8 also happened on the 2.5 i4 starting with the 2002 Altima. Post-renault nissans love to eat cats AND cvts!
Nissan = poop
Aren’t cats and all emission related items warrantied by law for 10 years?
I own a 03 gmc jukon that has 230.000 miles on it and it still runs great. I have put a water pump a well bearing on it but as the motor it still runs smooth and great
I ❤ the GMT-800's.
I wish I never sold my 03 Yukon Denali. It could do everything I needed in a vehicle. 6L engine AWD comfortable for long 12 hour trips. Used it like a pickup when the 3rd role seats were removed. The dog loved it too.
Also, the reason why the starter is expensive to replace on the Toyota 4.7L V8 is because the starter is located in the "V" area of the engine, which means that the intake manifold has to be removed. That's the reason for the high labor cost.
I have an 08 4Runner with 185,000 miles on the original starter. When it goes, I’ll do the starter, valve cover gaskets, and secondary air injection at the same time.
yup, all UZ V8s have their starters mounted to the top of the flywheel instead of the bottom, and you might as well do intake manifold gasket and knock sensors while you’re in there.
We love these buy this not that videos please keep making them 👍
Me, too.
Bought my 06 Expedition with 214k miles off my brother. it now has 226k miles. and the only "major" repair i had to make was a noise roller rocker. didn't take me long at all. I absolutely love that truck, its an absolute tank.
It wasn't the smartest idea buying it as a first vehicle, but i got it from my brother for a really good price. And thankfully I'm mechanically inclined to where i don't have to deal with shop rejections and extremely high maintenance fees. expeditions are great, as long as you can fix them yourself, and you buy one with a good service history.
They are amazing cars and parts are fairly inexpensive. Make sure to change oil prematurely on these and you’re golden.
I'd say if you bought one of the GM vehicles mentioned in that year range and it's in good shape (not ticking), the best investment I think you can make is to do a full AFM delete. Costs a bit of money but will pay dividends in the years to come afterwards, because it's either that or you're looking at a new (rebuilt) motor which costs at least the same amount. Or you could buy a rebuilt motor that already has the delete kit installed but somtimes these tend to be a bit more expensive obviously than a standard rebuilt engine with AFM. But it will be worth it if you do the delete kit (which basically replaces the collapsable lifters with solid lifters and disabled the AFM software). (OK the price has probably gone up, but I remember checking back in around 2020, and it was about $3500 to pay someone to do it. The parts themselves at the time were about $1500 if you bought a new cam with it).
One thing that was omitted I think for the GM vehicles that was somewhat common, was the o-ring in the pick-up tube in the oil pain would sometimes come apart or break, causing the engine to not draw the proper amount of oil up (thus low oil pressure). This isn't a huge job, but it does require dropping the oil pan. On my 2013 Silverado I had to replace the oil pump because it was registering low oil pressure. Luckily I caught it in time, where it was on the low-end of what GM said was acceptable oil pressure, otherwise I would have had suffered a siezed motor probably. After that was done, of course it continue to run fine until about 180k when I sold it (still runs today as the buyer is still driving it). Also when it comes to oil pressure, be careful because a dealer witll tell you that at idle- 12-15 psi is normal, but it's not. My reserach has told me that about 20 psi is minimum at idle and you really need at least 35 psi+ at highway speeds is what I remember mine being when it was new and sort of the metric I saw people (mechanics) mention on forums (I believe at 35-38 psi this is when the AFM system is activated as it's operated by oil pressure). 5k mile oil changes are OK, although I later found that I probably should have done it more often like every 3-4k miles, although mine never developed the collapsed lifter, but it did start to burn oil due to the AFM system which is a commonly known problem with this system (I believe it causes excessive wear on the rings when AFM is active as those cylinders where it seems to develop, are not firing -- although some say that the first and second cylinders are more prone to wear because of how the engine sits at a slight angle as well).
Good input keep it coming
One thing I Forgot to mention that I considered was to do an engine swap... get a rebuilt 4.8L V8, which only puts out about 5% less power than the 5.3L version (which all of the 5.3L's were AFM but some of the 4.8L's apparently aren't -- some are or maybe none are, but the 5.3L's were). So if you don't mind 300 HP vs 315 HP, you could also look into swapping for a 4.8L non-AFM engine or even the 6.2L which I don't think had AFM either, and not have to worry about it again. You could probably buy a 4.8L rebuilt engine for about as much as you'd pay to have the lifters done (again, this is based on pricing from a few years ago, but it likely isn't that much more at least just for the motor -- installation will probably make it a $6 or $7k job). You do have to be careful, but since the 6- speed automatic was an option for the 4.8L it should be a suitable replacement for the 5.3L. Some programing will probably need to be done, as the engine computer and trans PCM/computer will need to be replaced or reprogrammed.
GMT 900 Trucks would benefit from the AFM delete as you mentioned. Also, a high pressure oil pump, a 40k unit transmission cooler and a high performance thermostat alongside reprogramming the fans. These would make them like tanks. Almost as reliable as a Land Cruiser even.
Greatly appreciated
Need top 10 vehicles
Need to do for different car categories.
Keep up good work
Oh the infamous 4.7 toyota woahs. Timing belt driven water pump and under tge intake starter. Toyota got rid of both of those problems when they rolled out the replacement 4.6 motor. The 4.6 is a timing chain, belt driven water pump, and block mount starter.
Pre-DOD GM trucks and SUVs are really the way to go. Not too old, but new enough to be comfortable and capable.
After 180K miles, my 02' Tahoe has only needed a fuel pump and regular maintenance. Never had a check engine light on, only one brake job, original 4L60E with plenty of towing done.
Another good choice is the early GMT 900s with the 6.2 before they added DoD. The only issue is the fuel economy.
I really love my Escalade. I'm saving for if/when the engine goes. If the 4.7 doesn't go first in Wj. Both are very nice condition. The Jeep I have for 9 yrs. And first thing I did was change ALL fluids. Also a lot of engine parts ( just because I knew I was going to long arm lift on it) . I usually keep my vehicles until someone slams into them. I kinda want to get a 2023 Escalade but new GN's just seem to have so many issues. Since retirement is down the road, znd my 3 midlife crisis is also maybe a new Corvette with bumper to bumper warranty lol.
I loved my 05 Sequoia. 05-07 have the 5-speed auto and 30hp more with vvti. 03-04 have a 4 speed auto but it has upgraded internals over the earlier ones and 4x4 is a direct swap. They're pretty easy to swap except the stupid starter. 😂
05+ also had rear air suspension in limiteds and sr5 sport. Probably shot by now. Easy to swap to springs.
I sold mine before I deployed at 300k because I didn't want it sitting while I was gone. The guy I sold it to is still driving it. I am shopping for another (or maybe a 4runner or gx470) because I really liked it and have added another kid since I sold it.
The 2nd and 3rd gen have significantly less room behind the 3rd row.
I have a 2012 Expedition King Ranch that I bought at a Ford dealership in October of 2022 with only 39k miles. I now have 46k miles and I'm about to do my second oil change. I think it'll last a long time by changing the oil every 3500 miles.
Really low mileage in 10 years
On the 5.4 3V, the worst issue is not timing chain or phasers, but roller followers. These are what grenade the engine if the retention clip and spring are displaced. The valve falls into the cylinder. FordtechMakuloco does timing chain and phaser jobs all the time. But you have to replace the roller followers. They are the ticking time bombs.
People keep driving them with engine noise. Costly mistake.
Would you say the Ford engine is totally inferior to the GMC
@@lbrown7164 Comparing apples to apples, I would take a 5.3 Chevy from 2004-2006 all day long over a similar year 5.4 3v. 2007-2014 5.3 Chevy, I would also take that all day long over a 5.4l 3v.
My 5.4l 3v v8 has over 200k original engine, maintenance is very important on the 5 4l v8.
@@theshield1613 I have owned a few with over 200k as well. I wrench on them, so I am not afraid of them. Last one I did I had the passenger cam out in 45 minutes and it was still hot. Roller rocker locked up and took out a lobe.
Love the gmt800 seat you are using for the vids. Good comfy seats!
They're the best
had an 07 expedition EL and it was a perfect car until the cam phaser engine failure. unbelievable that that was not a recall.
The chevy is a very good choice. They're also becoming more common in the junk yard.
I knew alot that had the same platform and they just kept on going.
The ford is also a decent option. The 5.4 3v does have it's issues. I own one so I know.
The best advice I can give on these is to make sure it got the timing job done first or you plan to do it. If you don't plan to have this truck for long, then just keep using it till it quits.
Personally the 5.4 ain't that bad as a engine. It just gets a bad wrap. But alot of these are still going well over 100k.
I replaced all the timing stuff because I felt it was the right thing to do. The phasers were clicking, but no actual issues.
Make sure you run 5w30 also.
This is great advice, unlike from some other RUclips mechanics. Thank you for videos like this 👍
I love my 1997 c2500 chevrolet suburban 6.5 turbo diesel, I do all my own work so i only pay for parts and 2wd diesel mileage is unbeatable for a truck that does heavy pulling several times a week. 11 years ownership and 400,000 miles on the clock and i'm still loving it.
I love these videos where the Wizard just keeps it real. What about one with Camaro/Mustang/Challenger/350z/335i?
Car Wizard is so chill; yet never fails to share important information. If I were in Kansas (or if he were in Alabama), then I'd recommend his shop without hesitation.
I can't tell you how many of these videos that I've watched and you've saved my arse!! Thank you so much for taking the time to do these very informative reviews.
Just mentioning the left engine mount as a common failure for the GMT900 also. GM tech here, I replace those all the time!
Can’t believe I got a like!😂
Mr. Wizard, just want to say thanks for all the great content! I’ve been a tech for about 4 years now. I have watched, learned, and looked up to you since the beginning, your one of the best! Thank you for helping me become a better tech.
Happy Sunday!
Can go around 100k miles. Especially on escalade
Thanks for the tip, out of interest what's the cost to get that done?
@@dhillaz OEM part is around $150 if I remember correctly. And about $400-$600 in labor depending on where you get it done.
@@brandoneastman9710 Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This is helpful for me to advise my son.
My 2010 Qx56 got 18-19 highway with 93 octane. Yes, very powerful engine it has. Very excellent safety features also.
Got a 2004 Sequoia 4WD in 2020. Had 154k miles. Now 180k. Paid $4000. No major issues. Heavy on gas, but that's par for the course. Great for utility and leisure.
Got Denso water pump and timing belt kit for $170 from Amazon, my local mechanic fitted for $400. If starter goes bad will replace it myself.
Too many miles on that
@@busman2050 nah. The V8 4.7 I force engine is good for 500,000 miles.
I had an '05 QX56 for a while, engine & transmission were brilliant despite 220k+ miles. The biggest issues it had were bad HVAC actuators that required the entire dash disassembly to replace a couple of them, a bad instrument cluster (had it rebuilt for $300), and there were loads of random electronic problems - nothing major but a number were pretty annoying at times. I'm sure the early years of that generation had more of this than the later ones however, in 2008 they made some mods to the engine to gain some power, but at the cost of requiring premium fuel, adding insult to the pre-existing low mileage injury. My mileage on it wasn't as bad as Wizard states here but it was pretty bad - about 11 or 12 around town, 17-18 highway. I did really enjoy it though, made a nice overlander/camping rig. Sold it and now have a '12 Yukon that is great.
I really wish other OEMs would have used a simpler V8 engine design like GM had/has with the LS-based Vortecs. I was at a gas station the other day and premium was $.90 (!) more per gallon than regular unleaded. The Yukon's 5.3 is flex fuel so it can run on any grade or combination of unleaded gas or E85 which is quite a bit cheaper but gets about 2-2.5 mpg less.
I don't know how much the cost would swing, but you might include a full brake service as a 4th repair that will have to be done on every car at some point.
2012 Expedition here. 190,000 miles. Runs fantastic. Only had the leadframe issue and a water pump go bad.
why did he skip to mention 2012-2014 ?
The rear hatch/door handle is really problematic on the Sequoia. It breaks and can be a real pain to replace. Full timing belt/water pump, etc change is 800-900 bucks, not 1,400. I've had it done twice.. at 100k and 200k. I currently have 210k on my '06
Prices depends on where you live
Would have been worth mentioning that the LX470 sitting behind you is going to have nearly identical preventable issues as the Sequoia since it's the same 2UZ engine. Same starter in the middle of the V, same timing belt/water pump, and I believe same fuel pump. Having just dumped a 2003 Sequoia w 290k miles and a dead transmission, I can vouch for those issues. Got it cheap, ran it hard, and it owed me no favors. There is no way on Earth you're getting 19 MPG out of one of those though.
I know a couple people who cannot get more than 14 15mpg out of their big toyota v8s. 😅they like their gas
Yeah no idea how he said that Sequoias are good on gas 😂
My 4Runner is lucky to get 15mpg
My lifted 4th gen with 2UZ got 14 mpg’s with occasional 15 Mpgs but that was pushing it .
I have a 2007 suburban with 292k miles. One of the lifters started ticking about 12k miles ago on cold starts . Still going strong. Once the engine fails I might just buy a brand new engine instead of trying to gamble on trying to find a well maintained one.
I’d be interested in a video or two on minivans. I just had one of my kids door ding a really nice, late model RAV 4 and it cost me $750. Those sliding doors sound really good now.
I do like how less stressful bigger engines work and how simpler they seem to be compared to newer downsized ones. Of course the fuel economy is not the same but with a little effort they can be not the dinosaur like 😂 but the savings on maintenance if well kept can be huge.
Torque > rpm, H/P
The smaller engines are high strung and stressed to the maximum. There are many reasons why older V8's can be bored and stroked for far more power. Just adding a turbo means way higher maintenance. In aircraft, the same basic engine is restricted to half the serviceable hours if its turbocharged.
Water pump on a Ford Explorer 2011-16 internal runs off Timing chain big bucks ! 3.5 L Duratech v6
Surprised with the Sequoia, no mention of the lower ball joints and the exhaust manifold issues. Wizard only briefly brought up the timing belt
I have a 2014 Escalade, worst problem I had was all the chrome delaminated from the rims and corrosion set it, it's at 80k miles now, just replaced all oxygen sensors, only other issue was improving the battery to engine ground cable. I always change oil at 50% notice, Pennzoil Platinum mixed with Amzoil, and I use Marvel oil in oil and fuel. And I replaced all brakes and rotors.
I will buy another maybe next year.
I personally would not touch a Chevy after 2006 model years.
^this
Not necessarily I have a 2017 2500 HD with a 6 L with the six speed automatic that does not have active fuel management and this thing is a tank
Love my gmt800
@GMCJay_lly very reliable and the best years
@@Blue-moon12 they did still make the good ones in 07 for a half year as well! My friend has an 07 Sierra with 06 body still running like a champ
Thanks! You just showed that is better to buy a good old American SUV than an import one. How come you didn’t put the Dodge Durango in to close the circle?
It’s way smaller than these
Really great video as always but a couple of points. You didn't mention a brake job on any of these. Brakes are going to fail before before a water pump or starter and I imagine the price will vary between these different models. You also titled the video "Buy This, Not That" but you didn't mention any lemons! I was so looking forward to the Jeep bashing again. I might just lose sleep over it.
First time hearing about the Sequoia transmission issue - I have a first gen, no problem. The rest is spot on. But in terms of looks, quality and reliability - Toyota Sequoia is in another league compared to the other 3 SUV's,
Nobody is going to tell me a Tahoe or Expedition looks nicer than a sequoia. They are all plain boxes. The sequoia is great because the 2UZ is bulletproof. Never heard of transmission failures.
He said Toyotas have transmission issues never heard of that in any Toyota lol. Even the CVT transmission that Toyota use on some of their cars I still don’t hear those having problems
@@mvpjoshy9688 The early 8-speeds that came out around 2018 had major problems. They've been fixed now, though.
GMT900 with AFM are very reliable as long as you don’t skip oil changes.
The 5.4 can be a very reliable engine if properly maintained. The key word is if. Now they’re almost 20 years old finding a 5.4 that you know was properly maintained will be hard. Of course that is true for any modern used vehicle.
05 sequoia owner, bought it a year ago and so far only thing I’ve done is a tire change. Lbj needed but timing belt is new
I have a 2010 2500 suburban LT 4x4 and it has the 6.0 with no AFM and I love it
Seems to be real-world prices to me. In the late 90's I owned a 91 Olds Cutlass Supreme and a 89 Pontiac Grand Prix. They were practically the same car just different body style and options. The fuel pump went out in the Olds, and the dealer charged $225 to fix it. Then when the fuel pump in the Gran Prix was going bad, I got rid of it (did have it for 6 years). To hear that almost 25 years later that a fuel pump job will cost $900, I'm not surprised. Sure I wouldn't be happy to pay for it, but I wasn't happy to pay $225 back in 1998.
Its the same old saying, I" pay me now or pay me a LOT later " it cost to ride new and big !
right, i’ve noticed over the years with purchasing cars, you either pay a lot of money upfront or you pay alot of money down the line.
***Great info. Can you do a Sedan versus SUV, cost to own. Example: lexus rx350 vs lexus es350,
I love learning about so much on your channel. I appreciate all the information you give out. Thank you for everything you do. 😊
Yep, starters on the old Sequoias are pretty involved, on the UZ V8s they are under the intake and it is not fun to do. Also on the later models you have air injection which is under the intake as well, when that goes it is a nightmare if you want to replace the system. When I did one it was 8 hours and I replaced the starter while I was in there. Never really seen a transmission on one of those fail that wasn’t high mileage.
This video came at the perfect time! Currently looking at buying an SUV. I'm too tall for my '05 Camry, lol!
love that lexus sitting behind you. picked up an 08 gx470 and I love it.
Hey, @CarWizard I have a Lovely 2005 Ford F-150 with the 3Valve 5.4, It's in great condition right now... What should I do NOW to make sure it's gonna last (other than regular Oil changes) ?
Should I look at the cam phasers? Replace them and the chains? The truck has done 178000km or 120.000 miles
A new 1st gen Sequoia was in the 30K range. Considering the cost of a new Sequoia today > 80K, and also considering the lack of good 'gen 1 examples' for sale (people keep them), makes the costs of repairs seem low. I have the same motor in a Tundra, starter just gave out after 23 years, about 200$ for the 'toyota part' part. Not hard to install but does take some time. I spent most of the time cleaning the rat habitat under the intake, after the weight reduction my MPG increased by 1.
$32k-$43k range actually
@@dakotakline461 I was offered a new 2nd gen for 32.5, I offered them 32. Ended up walking away. This was 2008-2009 time frame.
11:52 Yeah, most Nissan products around a 2005-2010 range had that cat converter issue
I do like these kinds of videos. Can you do one of the more modern midsize SUV's like Cadillac XT5, Lincoln Nautilus, Dodge Durango/Grand Cherokee, whatever other relevant models from Lexus/Toyota and such?
Would have liked to know for the 6-10k price range what mileage where the vehicles versus how much life they might reasonably have left.
I know sequoia are usually more expensive than Chevy and sometimes with more miles.
More of these type of videos please! Super helpful when purchasing a good used vehicle.
Awesome video! Its worth mentioning that GM 4.8L does not have AFM.
I know I'm medium to advanced level on the DIYer scale, but long or missed oil changes on trucks are baffling to me. Not all, but a very good number of the older ones can have the oil changed without jacking the vehicle as long as you're on the medium or thinner side and can slide under. Grab a box wrench, loosen the drain plug, slide the drain pan underneath, and remove the drain plug with your fingers. THATS IT!!! Some filters can be tricky, but once you get the old one off, get a FRAM or a K&N. Frams come with grippy coating on the head and KNs have a hex knob tacked on for easy removal.
Anytime you're doing a timing belt on a motor with a water pump that runs off of the timing, its standard practice to replace it the same way you replace the tensioner.
Here's the unfortunate reality of the used cars market. There are lots of well maintained vehicles out there, but those won't be the ones for sale in a hurry. A good number will be put up for sale when the current owner discovers a very expensive repair coming soon even though the vehicle still runs well with no warning lights or obvious big money noises.
Case in point. Actually an 07 4.8 Tahoe where i met a side customer to do oil change on that and another vehicle. About 160k miles and no signs of major issues.
When i undid the drain plug that already had damaged threads by the last guy, lots and lots of metal glitter came out with the last quart of old oil. Even more when i poured in a quart to wash things down. Shockingly enough, the motor sounded and ran just fine. No noises or check engine light. I advised the customer to avoid driving the vehicle and sell it immediately.
I wonder if the ecoboost Expeditions are reliable
Just avoid the GMT900 and get the 800 instead. You won't get any of those AFM problems, because it doesn't have it.
They have delete kits for that.
I have a GMT900 withe the 6.2L. It doesn’t have AFM from the factory.
@ralphburrows4269 the Escalade and Yukon denali do, I think the sierra denali 1500 didn't though for some reason
I had a GMT900 and the built quality is the worst I've seen in any car. I didn't know they made plastics that cheap and brittle.
Man! Im so glad i found this channel 👍👏
good video, my 2014 qx80 upper cat disintegrated and clogged rear cat
Still waiting for one about minivans. Would be kinda cool
I 2nd that but wizard is not s minivan guy. I have a 2016 odyssey I got new and I can say with minivans its the little things that make the big difference. Look at what you need and buy on that. For me i required 3 car seats in the 2nd row so...
1 toyota sienna- no 2nd row middle seat latch anchors and it drove like a bus. Eliminated
2 dodge grand caravan- cheap but no 2nd row seat. Eliminated.
3 kia sedona- 2nd row seats not removeable. Eliminated
4. Honda odyssey, drove like a car and has latch anchors in all 3 2nd row seats. Buy even though i was well aware of hondas tranny troubled past.
Get a Honda or Toyota!!! Done!!
My mom had that Tahoe back in the day. It was a TANK. No problems at all. It was taken away when she went thru a divorce.
Are you saying she lost the truck but got to keep the kids?
I’ve been looking for an ‘07-‘09 Cadillac Escalade. It doesn’t have AFM, but does have the 6 speed auto.
I replaced the fuel pump on a Tahoe and I got the bare fuel pump with filter for 38 dollars. And did it out in the driveway in less than 2 hours. Total cost 55 dollars as I replaced clamps and hoses as well on the top of the sending unit.
Exactly. To replace a fuel pump $700? WOW!
As with anything else in these times using a mechanic is a luxury. I pity anyone that can't at least maintain their vehicles.
Mine was 400 for the part
I know a guy that sold his Lexus LS400 and bough a Yukon. He had just under 100k miles and is on his 3rd fuel pump. No trap door so the tank has to be dropped each time to replace. Very expensive to do.
This channel is both practical and informative! Thank you for providing it to us all.😀👍
I have learned a lot from your channel. I have 2001 Mercedes e320. Got it with 60k miles. It’s solid but I have more in repairs then I bought the car for 2 years ago for $3800
Is that the W210?
Those are solid cars my moms has 260k miles
My 2008 Escalade has a L94 which was not yet being equipped with AFM. Reference time 1:15-20
Awesome info for shopping, would love to see more of these!
Thanks for your information. Quick question. What is your take on Jasper engines and transmissions? Are they well made or is it all fluff. I respect your opinion.
I've wondered myself...
2011 Suburban 2500, 225k miles, no fuel management. Transmission did give up but $4k later it’s on the road again.
Fuel economiy on GMT900 is insanely great for a 7 or 8 seat SUV - I rented one for a long trip last year and we got 23MPG! Toyota is more like 14MPG.
I locked out the AFM keeping it in the V8 mode only and get 21mpg. It’s a 19 Yukon XL with the 5.3
Why don’t you recommend the Suburban/Tahoe/Escalade generation pre AFM?
Im a food delivery guy (Door Dash, Uber eats) i have an honda accord but need a bigger suv for groceries. Would you please post a video on what type of car would be good for our high mileage profession. (Rav, crv,pilot, etc.) PLEASE and thank you so much for these type of videos. God Bless!
I'd like to hear you're opinion on the Ford Flex and Aztec.
The best one is right behind you. Those LXs are tanks!
I love The Car Wizard videos, I just linked to his channel and mentioned him on one of my videos, keep up the good work.
Love your advice! 20 year tech and the Wizard is always spot on!
I want to see more series of these know before you buy videos from the Car Wizard, hopefully for four minivans.
My 04 Yukon has been a great vehicle and reliable. With routine 3-5k mile oil changes I've gotten 260k miles on the original engine/transmission.
Im planning on buying a gmt800 suburban or yukon xl at some point, hope it will last as long as yours since I'll try to keep up with that maintenance
I have 2 2002 Chevy suburbans and wouldn’t trade them for the world
GMT800 ❤