I had a 08' 5.4 and it dropped cylinder #8 because the oil tensioner blew out. That was after the dealer had just replaced the cam phasers. Needless to say I done with that truck.
@@CarWizard I had a 5.4 Liter 32valve in my 2005 Lincoln Navigator and I sold it 3 years ago with 296k on it and the only thing I ever did was run Mobil 1 and normal maintenance. I did change the AC accumulator and the condenser but that was it.
I would hope they would replace the tensioner while doing phasers, but maybe not. The biggest failures on these engines are those items and the hassle of changing plugs on them.
@@mikesamra9126 The 4Vs weren't affected by any of the issues that the 3Vs had because they didn't have the variable cam timing system that causes most of the problems in the 3Vs like in this video.
I had a 04’ F-150 that I bought in 10’ from a Ford dealer. I told them the only way I would buy it was with a Ford warranty. They gave me the warranty for an extra $1500. 6 months later the engine dropped a valve in the # 3 cylinder. Paid my $75 dollar deductible and they put a new engine in it. Mind you it took the Ford dealer 5 weeks to do it. I sold the truck ASAP!!!
I wouldn’t recommend keeping the towing hitch stinger in the truck. There was a guy in my home town that died when he rolled his pickup and the hitch stinger that was stored behind the seat struck him in the back of the head. I wouldn’t recommend keeping it in your vehicle. Get a locking hitch pin or keep it in a bed tool box or your garage/shed/shop.
I keep it attached to with a locking hitch pin. Im used to it being there so every time I go back there I watch out for it plus It saved my rear bumper when some lady rear ended me at 25 MPH in a subdivision. The hitch took most of the impact.
Good advice ! Thank you for sharing that sad but sobering story. I moved my hitch out of the cab, and I made sure everything else is either secure or I took it out of the truck.
My story is completely different. I always used synthetic oil (5W30...not 5W20). I did the Melling HV pump and all other associated components. Also did new upgraded rollers. I did all the work myself and my 5.4 3 valve is running strong! Feel bad for people who do get a bad engine. It's quite an expense. I'll keep my truck till it falls apart. I'm so familiar with it now and it's an easy fix vs. A new truck payment.
@@Macinro191 FordTechMakuloco has a video somewhere where he explains that the only place that uses 5W20 in the 5.4L is North America and all the troubles they're having. He also noted that South America uses the 5W30 and doesn't experience this trouble. The only reason 5W20 is used in North America is for the fuel economy rating. FordTechMakuloco is pretty much the God of the 5.4L's and repair. He has a 4 part series on doing the entire timing job on this engine. I used that and his recommendations on getting the Melling Oil Pump.
I do want to point this out for future owners. There's different versions of the 5.4. The 2v, 3v and 4v. The 3v is the one Wizard is showing and that's the one to stay far away from. The 2v came out in 97 and was replaced by the 3v in 04. The 2v's are very stout and reliable engines that have proven to go 300k, 400k miles and more. The 4v was in the Navigators and Lincoln trucks. The F150 never got it sadly, but that is also a fairly stout engine. Just because it's a 5.4 doesn't always mean to run away
No reason to stay away from a 3v. If you do routine oil changes with quality oil it will be fine. Also typically these engines just need timing components, and the engine itself is fine. Wizard clearly just doesn't know how to properly fix these engines at all and just throws in a new one. Go check out fordtechmakuloco. Wizard is clueless here.
@@JustAvignone I would agree with this if it came to my own Fords (Excursion V10, E350 van 5.4 2v, Lincoln Town Car) because I do all the maintenance myself and use the recommended Motorcraft oil and filter, changing them religiously. In fact, that’s probably why they’re all running smoothly. I would be extremely cautious buying the vehicle used though, due to this issue because you never really know how they were treated. In this case, the owner got the truck for free so a new engine/transmission are well worth it. All he/she has to do is maintain it right and it’ll last forever.
@@JustAvignone Wizard has worked for a shop way back in the day that fixed them before by doing what was recommended. Only to have those same vehicles return later with the same problem. The shop put a stop to the “fix”. Wizard just might have more experience with them then you think. It’s a design flaw. It’s like the Jeep Liberty’s that had the gas tank behind the rear axle. They exploded upon a collision from the rear. The fix? A recall from Chrysler to put a damn hitch in the back and that would potentially avoid the Jeep’s from exploding because of a design failure. That was just hilarious on their part. Needless to say I sold the Jeep.
Man, good to know about the issues with these 5.4 3 valve engines. I have a '97 F-150 with the 4.6 that I've been nursing along for almost 23 years now. guess I'll hold onto it for a while longer.
@BL Dontmatter Heh, yeah, I've heard from others that did the same job who said an engine swap is easier than changing head gaskets in one of those trucks.
@@americanchauvinist1210 yes he’s really good, I enjoy his videos. I suppose if you have one that has been extremely well maintained you could get away with just timing components. But both of the 3 valve 5.4s I’ve dealt with had rattling phasers, broken exhaust manifold studs and stuck spark plugs. I would hate to charge a customer to fix all those issues, then have the engine fail entirely when they could have just replaced the entire engine for another $1-2k.
@@DanielJaegerFilms I hear you and that was my “perfect” situation. Pulled the valve covers no sludge very clean. Did the crankshaft test to see if thrush washers were toast. Pass that test too. And no broken plastic guides all factory parts at 197,000 miles. Oh but one guide did have a crack so I got in just in time before it crumbled!
@@DanielJaegerFilms I watched your video cuz I was debating to just do powertrain engine but it was nearly a 70% more cost to do with everything checking out I decided to just replace parts
I got my engine replaced in my 2008 FX4 with a engine from Accurate Engines. Since I live only 1 mile from them they said that they could install the engine for me. TOTAL cost for the engine and install was only $4250. And this includes a 100,000 mile warranty.
You don't ALWAYS have to replace this engine. But there are so many flaws with it, it can cost as much to replace that many parts as to just get a reman. It's a good idea to replace all the roller followers any time major work is being done. And everyone reports it's almost impossible to change the plugs without breaking some of them. FordTechMakuloco has many videos on this....
Proper oil changes are key on these. We have a 2011 expedition with the "dreaded" 5.4 3v, over 200k on the original engine. What kills these is cheap oil and late oil changes.
This truck looks clean and well kept and the family seems attached for what ever reason. Which makes you wonder if the owner who kept the truck so clean and is so attached, would also be slacker in changing the oil and filter? Doesn't make sense.
I have a 2005 I bought new, always maintained. At 75K started to get the start-up rattle, which I wasn't happy about. Took it to FordTech, both timing chain tensioners gaskets were leaking. I had the entire timing replaced, roller followers with high volume oil pump. Cost $3000, runs like a champ now with 93K. Figure I'll get another 15 years out of it.
@@jjdub35 Yes it’s still running fine. Got 106k on it now, which I suppose isn’t a lot since I had the work done. But I don’t put that many miles on it annually and I do hope it lasts another 14 years. FordTech does an excellent job.
Very interesting, Wizard. A person I worked with had one with the Ecotech V6. At 50,000 miles the dreaded tick showed up. Luckily under warranty. It was a warranty claim for $10,000 Canadian, and that was not for a new engine. Another friend had an F-150 with the 3 valve 5.4. He spent over $4,000 trying to fix the old engine. He finally just traded it in. Great taste in cars, he got a Jeep with the death wabble.
It's crazy to me how filming an everyday job can be so interesting and entertaining to watch. I wish I could have been there when you and Hoovie first collaborated. I bet at that moment you were thinking this guy is crazy for wanting to film you work on cars. But fast forward several years and here we are. You with a very successful busniness and RUclips channel as well as Hoovie! Great Work! AND WE HAVE TO GIVE PROPS TO MISSES WIZARD AS WELL FOR THE SUPPORT ALONG THE WAY!
This is the same year and color as my Dad's last truck. I always loved the simple look of these trucks, and it was a fairly good truck. It's a shame he had a 5.4, he replaced the Cam Phasers himself and it blew up and he was pissed. luckily the Dealership he sold it to gave him around 10k because they must have known it was worth a lot more if they swapped the engine.
I have a 2009 with that engine. Runs perfect..why late production and I run synthetic since I bought it 5 years old with 104,000 miles. Proper maintenance is the key.
@@fakebrake you got lucky. 95% of the ones with proper maintenance still failed before 150k. I mean I guess that's OK for a Ford. But a 99-2006 5.3 chevy is 10x the engine. The 5.4 3valve is the absolute worst engine in history know for a fact by anybody that knows anything about vehicles. You defending that piece of shit let's me know all I need to. Lol
I'm so glad my 2004 Lincoln Navigator 5.4 liter engine is a rare 32 valve engine. I got lucky because I didn't know about this at the time of purchase. Once I did hear about this I did a vin check on mine. Yes it's the original 137k mileage engine
Bought 2007 F150 5.4 3v Triton FX4 brand new. Always kept up regular maintenance, including oil changes every 5k miles using Motorcraft oil and filters. Still running strong with 192k miles. No sludge. There is no doubt there can be issues with these engines, but doing regular maintenance with quality parts goes a long way.
There was an F-150 for sale here in the UK at a good price, thanks to the Wizard I knew to look if it was a 5.4 3V and as it was I left it well alone. 👍
If you want to know the real deal behind these 3v engines (5.4 and 4.6 pretty much identical) visit the FordTechMakuloco channel. Ford has made many updates to the internal parts on these engines and are quite reliable if you've made all the updates. You can fix these without a whole engine swap if you catch it in time - don't ignore ticking/tapping noises and if you crack into it make all the upgrades and drive it for 300k.
I watch his channel when he drops a video. Cheap parts and poor diagnostics is what kills these engines. The upgrade parts do make them better than when new. My dad had an 08 with the 5.4 3V. It had the timing set and lifter put in it. It ran well until totaled out by an 18 wheeler.
I had a 2004 with the stupid step side bed and the extended cab. Between the imminent demise of the 5.4 (after Cam Phaser actuator replacements), coils, needing plugs and the aforementioned body style, it got traded for a 2018 3.5LTT Plat. Love it, but still have the cam phasers. Want the 7.3, a good 'ol push rod. Can't wait to see what I had a near miss on...
Change the oil WHEN YOU’RE SUPPOSED TO and use a high quality oil. Sold mine with 242,000 on the clock and it was running great! It regularly towed a boat, 28’ camper, and a trailer with atvs. I’d still be driving it had I not found such a good deal on a new one in ‘18.
I see these type videos and they scare me but I change my oil religiously and honestly baby my pickup. It’s an ‘08 with 110k(I bought it in 18 with. 60k). It’s my daily driver and I pull a 30ft travel trailer as well. Knowing that some have no issues gives me a little hope.
2004 Navigator with 204,000 miles on the clock. only dead right now because of the dreaded Fuel pump relay. other than that runs like a top - normally...
I have a 2009 f150 with a 5.4 3v triton and it has 277000 miles on it she still runs strong never had an issue with it I really think the later ones are actually pretty good but the older ones not so much
I have a 09 Lariat, 5.4 with 135K on it. I have been good about oil changes and drove it like a car, though it was a work vehicle. When I liquidated the company I kept it as an occasional use truck. So far, so good.
Recently wrecked my '02 with the 5.4L 2V, I was rear-ended at a stop light and it was deemed a total loss (airbags went off). That was one reliable truck, had 210k miles without any rust or mechanical issues. Started shopping for a new truck and there were a lot of nice, cheap 11th gens. However, I decided to completely avoid the 5.4L 3V, but still wanted a V8. Overpaid for a '12 with decent miles, just to avoid the first gen of the 5.0L as well.
Oh man. I've had many of those in my bay with seized plugs. Decarb, 3/8 impact to bump them out while warm. Never broke one since doing it that way. Yeah, once those piles sludge up, they are done. Most customers didn't buy engines, they towed them away.
Mr wizard I just purchased a 2006 e350;superduty it’s extremely clean rust free to the point the factory paint is on the frame rails this van sat and lived near the desert California and a sheriff used it to pick up prisoners . It has the and spot light if one peas to escape I assume or maybe illegal crossing the border . It runs perfect not a a hitch perfect they even sent me the oil change service manual it’s perfect . I looked at the damper and notice it was a little larger gap from the timing cover I have not taken a crow bat to check if there is any thrust bushing play I seen that was another nightmare . Anyway I really like the van but I want to be serious is this a nightmare about to happen I have had a 12 k offer so I guess you would say jump in that and run
I have an 09 F150 5.4 3v with 260 k mi, some low rattle at idle, some occasional off-idle rattle which goes away when I rev it up, but no loud ticks. Idles great. Uses no oil. Was a fleet work truck with spotty maintenance. I may pull the pan to see if there are tensioner pieces in the oil pump pickup. Its sister truck is at 300 k mi with no problems.
My dad had a 2006 or 2005 3v 5.4 f150 and by some miracle it made it to 260,000 miles. It’s been gone for a few months but by the end (before traded it) it was running on 6 cylinders and was at the end of its life. Good truck up until then. Well taken care of just had it life cycle. Funny thing is it kept eating spark plugs up and getting them really fouled up. We never looked into the issue farther cause we knew the truck was just done.
I'm not sure why the car wizard is so against the cam phaser/timing chain fix. My 2006 f150 ran okay after the fix.. for about two hours. It burnt to the ground.. That was an expensive mistake.
No one wants to spend the engine tear down hours, for something that's a Ford product and prone to not fixing the issue. You can replace everything and still have small oil passages, it's part of why it's a junk engine.
When they changed the body style in 09 they also heavily went through the 5.4 to the point where it didn’t share much with the 04-08 trucks. If you pause the video and look at the list most of the trucks were 05-07
Alot of it has to do with maintenance too. A good schedule with frequent oil changes with quality synthetic and a good filter make all the difference with these.
When I bought mine 6 years ago from the dealer it had new phasers, tensioners, chains, the list goes on all done before it hit their lot with the paperwork included from the dealer. I have religiously changed the oil and used 5w30. So far so good at 45k miles later. I'm currently at 182k miles but often wonder when will it blow.
Curious to see that timing chain and how lumpy the actual links are , BIGGEST PROBLEM THAT THESE 3v ENGINES FACE IS THE AFTERMARKET TIMING CHAIN KITS TECHS INSTALL , the dorman phasers and other aftermarket brand phasers are junk and the chains are way more rough edged than the actual Ford timing chain, and for that very reason, it wears the guides 3-4 times faster leaving you with another timing job/new engine just only 15-20k later. If people just buy the OEM Ford timing parts the engines WILL last 200k+ as long as you maintain it. My mother had an 05 expedition with the 5.4 3v, og engine and tranny lasted 167,000 miles no major issues. Car wizard you should definitely compare the actual Ford timing chain to the aftermarket timing chain and you’ll see the difference on how much more rough edged the aftermarket chain is and that’s why these aftermarket kits destroy these engines.
In 2011, my dad bought a 2004 Ford F150 Lariat with fairly low mileage for about $14,000 (I was little at the time so I don't know the specifics). He drove that thing for a few years and then my brother drove it after that all the way on up to around 265,000 miles without too many issues until it started having cam phaser problems, then my brother sold it for cheap. It still ran though, but these trucks can be okay-ish as long as you take care of them. I personally think these trucks with the 4.6 are awesome and have aged really well.
Your 3-valve video saved me a huge headache because I was going to buy that year F-150. I guess I will be hanging on to my 2001 Ford Expedition with 250,000 miles on it. She has the Triton 5. 4 which still runs great but the truck is rusting away on me. Thanks car wizard.
It's crazy to see the used market appreciate on most vehicles with over 200k miles on it. I'd like to see what failed on this engine if not to satisfy curiosity but to deter others from being hosed on buying one.
I bought a 2018 F150 with 150K miles on it. Not that long ago I wouldn't even consider a vehicle with that many miles, but two things changed my mind: The very high cost of the used cars I prefer (3-4 years old, less than 60K miles), and the fact that every car I've owned in the last 20 years has gone well over 200K trouble free miles. 100K is the new 50K.
@@MrJeffcoley1 I'm still driving a 2001 Toyota 4Runner with 185k miles and a 1996 Toyota Tacoma with 395k miles. At this stage it's far cheaper to keep them going if they fail than buying a newer one.
Inflation is killing the lower and middle classes. New cars really aren’t that much more expensive. Used cars have doubled, tripled in price and they are junk. No one is selling a good one.
The price for trucks is absolutely insane but you can still find good deals if you look hard enough. I recently picked up a '99 4.8L Silverado 4x4 round body with 113K for just under $6000. Put another $1500 into maintenance stuff like changing fluids, shocks and a new steering gear box but hopefully she will be good for a long time.
Here in California I consistently see trucks that are easily 20 years old with over 200k miles going for 12-15 grand and if you want a Tacoma, Tundra or any Diesel you're looking at 20+ it's completely absurd
Hello there, I owned an 04 f150 for 6 years with the 3valve, it had the cam phaser tick the whole time I had it, I kept up on the maintenance on it better than anything else I have ever owned, but this past year it started to develop a misfire so I took it to a mechanic, and he couldn't figure it out, so when I got myself some money, I bought a toyota sequoia, sold the truck for about what I paid for the toyota, but I do miss it. I did want to put a new engine in it, but didn't have the money.
Had an 04 3 valve. please read because its crazy. My dad bought this truck. The truck was grandpa owned, barley any rust ( in the north east) and only had 132k on it. The timing chain came out of alignment due to the cam phasers going bad. this caused the timing chain to chip a hole in the timing chain cover. The serpentine belt then got shredded through the hole into the motor. The crazy part was was that the motor was still able to idle after this process. Mechanic said the motor was a total loss due to the little bits of serpentine placed throughout it. Put a new motor in the truck 7k later. now its a lawn ornament because the fuel pump went out and my father cant bring himself to spend the money to get it fixed, and rightfully so. The chassis they put that motor into were great, the motor really really fucked over a lot of people. if you have a 3v sell asap. its a time bomb waiting to blow your money.
But isn't it the roller followers that are actually killing these things? Where those replaced with the updated roller follower version when they did the phasers/timing/pump on this one? FordTechMakuloco seems to make a living off these engines and his repair/replace process seems to be getting the job done (at least based on customer reviews).
I definitely wish I would have learned about switching over from 5w20 to 5w30 sooner. At 171k I'm just starting to hear the ticking noise coming from 2 & 3 (it runs buttery smooth otherwise). I got it at 110k and have been keeping up on the oil changes with quality synth, but I have no records for the previous owner. FTM is getting his hands on it next week for all of the recommended services.
I have my F150 2004 like this one........with 150 000 miles and it work perfect.....I was aware long time ago about these problem...... 1) Spark plug problem 2) Manyfold craking 3)Chance oil each 3000 miles...or (4) times a year My truck is a work horse and I still make alot of money with my business.....and I don't care to spend $15K for repair (deductible on business anyway) I'm in Montreal QC Canada....I'm willing to go down at your place to replace the motor and transmission when it will be the time
Shops would rather replace the engine than repair it, because repairs have a risk associated with it. Since the shop doesn’t care if you are spending $7000, why wouldn’t they recommend a replacement engine, it’s less potential headache for them.
With $700 in genuine Ford parts, that includes an oil pump upgrade for more oil pressure, 8 hours of labor will take care of the timing chain, tensioners, upgraded roller rockers, and vvt solenoids. It is a tedious job, but no more expensive than a timing chain job on many other cars. The trick is to keep an ear out for chain slapping/rattle due to the failed tensioners. So, if DYI it is $700 or so . . . totally refreshed and good for 200K+. If done by a shop, yes . . . they must be meticulous or face a lot of warranty work. Costs, about $3500.
This particular engine (and MANY others) has serious design problems that a shop cannot fix. It needs to be rebuilt and highly modified by a place that has the knowledge and tools to do this kind of thing. The best a regular repair shop can do is put a very expensive band aid on it, and it will fail again very soon. In this case it is not so much a risk as it is a sure thing. You would be doing a temporary repair on an engine that you KNOW is going to fail.
@@geraldscott4302 I can't agree more. When I find a car with a part which is defective or has a very high error rate, then I don't understand the logic of replacing the defective part with another defective part. Instead I find a way to replace the part with a properly designed part, or get rid of the vehicle. I also note the manufacturer and avoid them in the future.
I’m happy to hear that you use Powertrain Products engines. I just had my 5.4L 3V triton replaced in a 2005 F150. They have great reviews. I’m at about 500 miles and so far it’s great.
At 3:35 you said the engine was is sludged up, that's because he didn't change the oil at regular good intervals and didn't use fully symethetic oil LIKE I DID, and I'm still getting good clean predictible driving mileage out of it at 364,000 miles usiing Royal Purple fully synthetic oil with a Wix 10050 filter. Never had any engine work done to it except I did change the VCT's which was so easy to do, like easier than changing spark plugs on a lawn mower. With that any miles on my truck, I also never had any work done on my transmission except proper fluid changes and filter changes, I think at 100,000 miles. The 3v 5.4 motor is a wonderful motor if you change the oils frequently.
I know people personally who have 300k+ on 5.4 3 valves and they run perfectly. I'm a contrarian but I honestly believe if you are religious about maintenance these engines do ok. Especially the last couple years of them. At this point, the price of used trucks isn't even worth it. I would put a replacement in this in a second. I'd never buy one used though and I'd be wary of the mass rebuilders.
this is correct ive seen people sell them with high mileage original motors that sounds mint heck mines an 05 5.4 3v with 170k miles runs like a champ, i hear they lock up cause of faulty oil pressure and poor maintenance
@@destructoidx99 poor maintenance causes the oil flow issues. The pressure is fine it's just stuck behind a bunch of sludge. I've rebuilt quite a few, had one that the chains were rattling because the sludge packed the tensioners completely solid.
I have an 04' F150 5.4 3v and have over 200k. I love my truck and it never breaks. I've been meticulous with the maintenance. I have an awesome mechanic here in Illinois as well🙂
I'd put a 24v 4.6 in it, good performer and a fraction of the cost of a 5.4, not nearly as many issues as the 5.4 but you can get similar power and torque out of it
@@CJColvin I prefer the 24v 4.6 as it's a better engine option than the InTech and the V10 as it's more plentiful and cheaper than the InTech and V10 engines and they make bolt on supercharger kits for them so you can turn your old truck into a sleeper
How will this effect the check engine light and emissions components, many people live in a state where if the check engine light is on the truck won't pass inspection, no cats, no inspection and then it can't be registered. If there is a viable way to do this and make everything function properly where all the monitors are set and ready at the time of the inspection then I would say this is a really good idea.
Guess I got a unicorn. I have an 05 5.4 3v at just under 300k miles and it’s been great. No rust anywhere, some dings and scratches. Pulled dump trailers packed to the gills with wood and steel from a demo job and regularly pull a big 72” deck Badboy mower and have the bed full of tools with minimal sagging and no mods. I’ve changed plugs, coils, tires, lights, and fluids but nothing other than those few regular wear and tear consumable type things.
My 06 F150 5.4 is still running strong! It tows my camper fine and has been with me from North Dakota, to Washington State, to Louisiana, and now Missouri! DON’T JINX ME WIZARD!
Watch Wes Work has a good video tearing down one of these just when the clicking started. He showed and explained that by the time the ticking starts, often much of the oil pressure to the top of the engine is just gone due to the way the engine is designed. He also said that many ford trucks since whatever year have an oil pressure gauge that actually is just a switch where if you have more than something like 7psi oil pressure it goes to the middle, and if you don't it goes all the way to the left. Basically just a very misleading oil pressure light. Not to mention the actual oil pressure sensor is on the bottom of the engine It seems like the reason you have to just replace the whole engine when this problem occurs is because it has been starved of oil on the top end for quite some time
And you have to be RELIGIOUS with oil changes; I bet most if not ALL the people saying they haven’t had any problems have likely been changing their oil at 3000 miles on the dot EVERY SINGLE TIME.
@@dbrandon4528 depends on the climate you are driving in. If you drive in a climate where the temperature goes below freezing sometimes then 0wxx oil is the best. If you drive in hot climates then you should not use 0wxx oil!
Normally I would agree. I use 10w40 in my Crown Vic 4.6L 2 valve that the book says to use 5w30 in. BUT, it does not have VVT. Engines that have VVT, like the 5.4 must have the recommended oil viscosity, or the VVT will not work properly.
Love your shirt....my buddie's just pulled the oil cap to check his level on his Triton...there was some yellow soupy crud on the bottom of the cap, and in the neck.....I have never seen that before...
main cause of these engines going to hell is poor maintenance. so many people and shops nowadays think you can go 7500 or 10k miles on oil changes. that is pure stupidity and laziness especialy with modern engines with complex timing chains and active cam timing/cylinder deactivation. oil changes are dirt cheap, engines are very expensive. i do 3k miles even with synthetic i dont care what the manufacturer says the oil can go, they only care the engine lasts long enough to get out of warranty.
I agree, relying on past and present oil monitoring systems is foolish, I'm old school 2-99s one 4.2 V6 two wheel drive, one 4.6 V8 four-wheel drive for winter Dura blend change every 5,000 miles. ✌️
They will eventually fail even with proper maintenance. I’ve heard of it myself. I knew someone that had a 2005 Expedition that had a 5.4 3 valve and they still had to replace the cam phasers and the timing chain and it’s had regular 5000 mile oil changes on it. It did last longer than many other 3 valve 5.4 liter engines though.
@@atx-cvpi_99 5000 is still too much IMO on these cuckoo-clock modern engines. the older the oil gets the less it protects and more apt it is to burnoff. i work mostly on Subarus and have seen way too many engines 2 or 3 quarts low after a 5k oil change interval. and then even if the oil can go 5k or more can the filter?? or is it gone into bypass mode and sending unfiltered oil through the engine. 3k oil change is cheap insurance. my mothers 2006 outback has always had 3k changes using Shell Rotella T and it was spotless inside when i did valve cover gaskets at 280k
I’d recommend looking at FordTechmakuloco as the authority on Ford 5.4 3v. Not all of these need new engines. Some are properly fixed with phasers and full timing kit. There are tests to see if it makes more sense to go full engine.
Not worth the gamble in my shop, or the other 715 listed shops in the video. If it doesnt work out, you just burned up the customers cash for nothing, and STILL needs a new engine. Not on my watch.
@@CarWizard fair enough, you are being up front with your customers which is best based on your experience with the motor. Which is why they came to you. I just wanted to mention there are proven tests to see if the engine would make a good candidate to fix. Compression, oil pressure at certain rpm, and I believe a scan tool to show variable timing behavior. The other youtuber I linked has a ton of info on these (and other Ford). True even he swaps the ones that aren't good candidates.
One of my favorite channels, entertaining and informative. Looking forward to more on this truck, my brother had a F 250 and it was a good driver. Very comfortable at highway speeds, could tow just about anything. He sold it and got a newer one, he's had good luck with it so far.
HERE’S THE TRUTH I’ve had four of them, all 4x4’s, and I bought all of them for less than 10k combined, because mechanics keep ranting on them. I replaced the, plugs, rockers, timing chains, cam phasers, solenoids, oil pump and exhaust manifolds on all of them; for less than 1k each. However, a mechanic couldn’t do it for that price, if they wanted to stay in business. It’s a horrible nightmare of a job, plus I’m a farmer / rancher, I already had most of the tools, and believe me I’m already accustomed to working on stupid things engineers do. IF you can find a (real mechanic) willing to do the engine swap, have them do it and enjoy the warranty, because it will get used.
You sound like a typical VW Passat owner. "I've had 10 VW Passats and they are the best, most reliable cars. As soon as I hear weird noises I sell it and get another one." lmao
I have one of these. It’s an 06 2wd. It’s on its 3rd salvaged engine at $2500 each. Now it cranks over but won’t run. I subscribed so I could see the internals of this engine when you get it torn down.
I’ve personally had two of those trucks with that motor in it both made it to 500,000 miles before I sold them in perfect running order. The key to keeping those motors running is to run a full synthetic oil and high-grade filter and change every 3 to 5000 miles without fail!
I agree. However, the fact that these engines are so prone to fail catastrophically if strict maintenance isn't adhered to... well it speaks to the overall poor design. We have all missed an oil change by 1000 miles or so. It happens. Modern synthetic oils are so good these days that most any other engine can wait to 7500 miles as an oil change interval, if not used for regular towing or extreme duty and conditions. This particular instance, like the 6.0 diesel, is an example of a really bad design and as consumers, we should be able to count on better reliability.
My 04 park avenue had werid transmission problems when I had bought it. I replaced all solenoids in the transmission, fixed all codes. Took it to Kansas city back to Colorado springs no problem. Since then I have added a shift kit to.my 4t65e transmission it has helped it even more. Sometimes winging it, can get u by no problem.
Run Archoil 9100 every oil change in your oil to prevent sludge build up. Put seafoam in the oil 50-100 miles before oil change and get the oil really hot on a long drive. It works wonders for keeping sludge at a minimum. Works great on my 6.0L Powerstroke Excursion...
It seems like a common theme with Ford engines. In Australia and Europe the Land Rover Discovery 3 2.7lt V6 diesel and the Discovery 4 3.0lt V6 diesel are both well known for complete engine failure.
Wow. I didn’t know these engines were that bad. I hated getting rid of my 2007 F-150 with the 5.4L. I drove it until it had 280k miles, which is when it was giving me trouble. That’s when I got rid of it. Block was solid. I only really changed the gasket to the oil filter housing. I often wished I had kept it and redid the engine before it died. I guess I got lucky.
Mine is at 292k miles on all original internal engine parts. Just like any truck, take care of it and it will take care of you. The GM dod lifters are worse than this issue.
I have a 2006 f150 5.4 and have always changed the oil on time. I disconnected the 2 VCT valves and live with worse gas mileage. 208,000 miles if it goes some more I'm happy. Lots of rust though but I'm cheap i just put some strong duct tape over the rust holes and rust paint over the tape ) Other issues I fixed [but i drive the heck out of my work truck] = broken tranny [tried pulling a heavier truck out of the snow covered under warranty] + new alternator + broken rear passenger side leaf spring + broken driveshaft u-joint.
I’ve got an 06 Explorer 4x4 with the 4.6 3v with 191k miles and ZERO evidence of cam phaser issues. I don’t know if the previous owners dealt with it or not but I couldn’t find evidence of that in its service history. I’d like to know the Wizards opinion on the 4.6 3v vs the 5.4 3v. It’s my spare vehicle/winter beater and it will probably serve me well in that capacity. I’ll be happy to make it to 300k.
the 4.6 doesn't really get talked about like this because everyone knows the 4.6 is toyota tier reliable when taken care of. as long as the transmission is in good health it should make 300K.
@@jorgey4 So is the 5.4, do oil changes at the proper time with quality oil and you'll have no issues. These "oiling issues" are all from people doing oil changes once every 10k miles or so after the oil has started to slug and clog the galleys.
We have an 07 F150 with the Triton. Searched for 6 months before I found it used with 106k miles motor was never opened up, all original well cared for. Truck had the oil changed regularly every 3-4k miles since new and we continue to change it using 5-20 dino oil. Truck just reached 173,000 miles engine still runs like a sewing machine no ticks. Tows my Street rod too. Most of the failures are attributed to lack of maintenance and Ford made so many of them when they show up in shops broken it seems like a high failure rate but not really. I will agree that Triton engines are hypersensitive to clean thin oil to ensure proper lubrication.
I was a hoovie guy but i quickly got to following you and the mrs. We wish you the best from metro detroit. Cant wait for the yacht vids in the spring! Love yall! The soreks
Maybe One Question for those who do own these 5.4L Triton V8's... Is it Possible to do an Engine Swap From a 5.4L to the More Reliable 4.6L Triton V8, since those were still available around that time? If not, what would be the reason?
Currently the owner of a 2007 Ford Expedition with the 5.4 3v. Oil changes performed every 4000 miles and transmission fluid changed every 25,000to 30,000 miles. Had the timing chain, cam tensioners and phasers changed at 192,000. Still rolling strong. The only reason I still have this vehicle is for the reasons stated by the wizard. Prices for vehicles, both used and new, have skyrocketed!! I will hold onto this vehicle if no other major engine issues come about but rest assure, my next vehicle will not have a Triton engine. Keep up the good work Wiz!!
Should try turning it over in reverse, if it spins backwards then one of the roller followers failed, got pushed off the lash adjuster, then the keepers came off of a valve spring and it dropped a valve. That's another common failure on these.
It's funny that the Wizard brought up truck values. My Trans went out on my 03 Envoy over the summer and I have been looking to buy a used pickup to replace it in the last couple months and I have just decided to get my Envoy's Trans rebuilt. I can't even look at a truck for less than 20 grand that's worth owning in my area. Never in my life would I have considered a transmission rebuild on a modern vehicle but I couldn't replace my Envoy today for anywhere near the 4000 dollars I paid for it 5 years ago. Times are insane.
my client's 04 F150 has the 3V 5.4 with 220K miles. the top end is ticking. it's probably the roller followers like the Fordtechmakuloco videos show. I really don't understand how a Ford 5.4 "locks up".. if you change the oil on time and don't ignore the timing chain components and followers it should run 200-300K.
To bad for the owner, the truck looks good. Prices for new and used trucks are through the roof! I think a engine change would be the way to go. Just my opinion.
I had a 2001 2v that was locked up. Biggest problem was getting the torque converter off. I finally dropped the oil pan, started loosening the rod bolts, and when it let loose I was able to spin it over. What a pain in the butt. Very hard vehicles to work on in my opinion.
Also, my used one, which came out of a wreck, lasted about 3 years and then a headgasket blew at about 180,000 miles. And, didn’t they have spark plug blowing out issues on the early ones, then the late ones had breaking off spark plugs? Not my favorite engines for sure. Loved the truck tho.
I’m a mechanic and I’m the Ford guy, I know my way around them 5.4s lol and I drive one to lol basically the way to keep it on the road is use decent oil and change it regularly and do spark plugs every 50 ish. Nobody did that so most of them need motors now.
@@ericshaffer3092 i agree that its a bit dramatic but the numbers don't lie. A good motor worth it salt should able to go longer if something like this arises.
Wizard big fan of you brother! Thanks for all the content and the boat videos are awesome. Honestly watching you is better then what they have on TV lol
I have an ‘08 Ram 1500 regular bed/cab RWD with the 4.7V8/6 speed manual. All the typical options wanted today. It has 40,XXX miles. No rust, no major damage. Inside of the bed with no liner looks almost new. I paid $16,3XX new. It would probably bring that today on a dealer lot. Last year for a half ton pickup with a manual.
I have a 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, I bought it new and it has 113,000 miles on it; being a California truck it has zero rust, and it still looks, and drives like a new truck. I keep toying with the idea of trading it in for something that gets better gas mileage, but, every time that I do consider trading it in, I run across one of these videos about how much in demand used vehicles are, and how people are wanting to keep their current vehicles on the road, and then I reconsider getting rid of my Avalanche. It does have a couple of minor oil leaks; if I lived near the Wizzads shop, I would have him fix the leaks for me. 🙂
i wonder how the 5.0L that was introduced in 2011 has been holding up. I know the ecoboost has its problems but i haven't heard a lot about the 5.0l save a few. I currently own a 2017 5.0l
Ecoboost has carbon buildup on intake valves and timing chain issues. 5.0 is known for oil leaks and spark plug/ignition coil issues. Overall both are decently reliable as long as you properly maintain them.
@@Cynsham The Gen 2 Ecoboost no longer has carbon issues as Ford moved to Direct and Port injection. The Gen 2 came out in 2017. They do have Cam Phaser issues though
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I had a 08' 5.4 and it dropped cylinder #8 because the oil tensioner blew out. That was after the dealer had just replaced the cam phasers. Needless to say I done with that truck.
There we have it. New cam phasers DID NOT fix the problem. Thank you!
Just learned of a Shop in Macpherson, KS found this out the hard way. Big cam Phaser job..... And still messed up. 🤦♂️
@@CarWizard I had a 5.4 Liter 32valve in my 2005 Lincoln Navigator and I sold it 3 years ago with 296k on it and the only thing I ever did was run Mobil 1 and normal maintenance. I did change the AC accumulator and the condenser but that was it.
I would hope they would replace the tensioner while doing phasers, but maybe not. The biggest failures on these engines are those items and the hassle of changing plugs on them.
@@mikesamra9126 The 4Vs weren't affected by any of the issues that the 3Vs had because they didn't have the variable cam timing system that causes most of the problems in the 3Vs like in this video.
I had a 04’ F-150 that I bought in 10’ from a Ford dealer. I told them the only way I would buy it was with a Ford warranty. They gave me the warranty for an extra $1500. 6 months later the engine dropped a valve in the # 3 cylinder. Paid my $75 dollar deductible and they put a new engine in it. Mind you it took the Ford dealer 5 weeks to do it. I sold the truck ASAP!!!
Best 1575 youve ever spent. Hope you didnt lose too much on the resale.
Nice!
You should of driven it until almost the end of the warranty. You are one of very lucky few that made out on an extended warranty.
Winner: Dealer
@@OffTheBeatenPath_ There will be a kick back in the warranty sold.
I wouldn’t recommend keeping the towing hitch stinger in the truck. There was a guy in my home town that died when he rolled his pickup and the hitch stinger that was stored behind the seat struck him in the back of the head. I wouldn’t recommend keeping it in your vehicle. Get a locking hitch pin or keep it in a bed tool box or your garage/shed/shop.
I keep it attached to with a locking hitch pin. Im used to it being there so every time I go back there I watch out for it plus It saved my rear bumper when some lady rear ended me at 25 MPH in a subdivision. The hitch took most of the impact.
Or if your truck is like mine, just let the hitch rust into the receiver permanantly so that nobody can ever remove it if they tried
@@chris-2105 Been there, done that lol.
Good advice ! Thank you for sharing that sad but sobering story. I moved my hitch out of the cab, and I made sure everything else is either secure or I took it out of the truck.
I got rid of my 2007 F150 before the 5.4 3V went bad. The frames on these rust out also. My frame was shot, and I traded it.
My story is completely different. I always used synthetic oil (5W30...not 5W20). I did the Melling HV pump and all other associated components. Also did new upgraded rollers. I did all the work myself and my 5.4 3 valve is running strong! Feel bad for people who do get a bad engine. It's quite an expense. I'll keep my truck till it falls apart. I'm so familiar with it now and it's an easy fix vs. A new truck payment.
why the oil change?
@@Macinro191 FordTechMakuloco has a video somewhere where he explains that the only place that uses 5W20 in the 5.4L is North America and all the troubles they're having. He also noted that South America uses the 5W30 and doesn't experience this trouble. The only reason 5W20 is used in North America is for the fuel economy rating. FordTechMakuloco is pretty much the God of the 5.4L's and repair. He has a 4 part series on doing the entire timing job on this engine. I used that and his recommendations on getting the Melling Oil Pump.
@BigPlaneFixer would you recommend 5W40 or just 5W30?
@@Shepherd2833 5W30 Full Synthetic.
@@BigPlaneFixer thanks
I do want to point this out for future owners. There's different versions of the 5.4. The 2v, 3v and 4v. The 3v is the one Wizard is showing and that's the one to stay far away from. The 2v came out in 97 and was replaced by the 3v in 04. The 2v's are very stout and reliable engines that have proven to go 300k, 400k miles and more. The 4v was in the Navigators and Lincoln trucks. The F150 never got it sadly, but that is also a fairly stout engine. Just because it's a 5.4 doesn't always mean to run away
No reason to stay away from a 3v. If you do routine oil changes with quality oil it will be fine. Also typically these engines just need timing components, and the engine itself is fine. Wizard clearly just doesn't know how to properly fix these engines at all and just throws in a new one. Go check out fordtechmakuloco. Wizard is clueless here.
The 5.4 2v just likes to eject its spark plugs.
@@JustAvignone also have to consider that fordtechmakuloco knows ford like the back of his hand, and car wizard’s expertise is foreign cars
@@JustAvignone I would agree with this if it came to my own Fords (Excursion V10, E350 van 5.4 2v, Lincoln Town Car) because I do all the maintenance myself and use the recommended Motorcraft oil and filter, changing them religiously. In fact, that’s probably why they’re all running smoothly. I would be extremely cautious buying the vehicle used though, due to this issue because you never really know how they were treated. In this case, the owner got the truck for free so a new engine/transmission are well worth it. All he/she has to do is maintain it right and it’ll last forever.
@@JustAvignone Wizard has worked for a shop way back in the day that fixed them before by doing what was recommended. Only to have those same vehicles return later with the same problem. The shop put a stop to the “fix”. Wizard just might have more experience with them then you think.
It’s a design flaw. It’s like the Jeep Liberty’s that had the gas tank behind the rear axle. They exploded upon a collision from the rear. The fix? A recall from Chrysler to put a damn hitch in the back and that would potentially avoid the Jeep’s from exploding because of a design failure. That was just hilarious on their part. Needless to say I sold the Jeep.
Man, good to know about the issues with these 5.4 3 valve engines. I have a '97 F-150 with the 4.6 that I've been nursing along for almost 23 years now. guess I'll hold onto it for a while longer.
@BL Dontmatter It is a great engine. I did have to put head gaskets in mine which was not a pleasant job though.
@BL Dontmatter Hopefully these last the rest of the time I have the truck, cause I won't be doin that job twice! lol.
@BL Dontmatter Heh, yeah, I've heard from others that did the same job who said an engine swap is easier than changing head gaskets in one of those trucks.
Engine replacement is the way to go on these. Both of the 5.4 3 valve engine replacements I’ve done have also had no issues whatsoever.
Depends on many factors....
Ever heard of makuloco? Lol but it’s really worth it to do timing before you have issues
@@americanchauvinist1210 yes he’s really good, I enjoy his videos. I suppose if you have one that has been extremely well maintained you could get away with just timing components. But both of the 3 valve 5.4s I’ve dealt with had rattling phasers, broken exhaust manifold studs and stuck spark plugs. I would hate to charge a customer to fix all those issues, then have the engine fail entirely when they could have just replaced the entire engine for another $1-2k.
@@DanielJaegerFilms I hear you and that was my “perfect” situation. Pulled the valve covers no sludge very clean. Did the crankshaft test to see if thrush washers were toast. Pass that test too. And no broken plastic guides all factory parts at 197,000 miles. Oh but one guide did have a crack so I got in just in time before it crumbled!
@@DanielJaegerFilms I watched your video cuz I was debating to just do powertrain engine but it was nearly a 70% more cost to do with everything checking out I decided to just replace parts
I got my engine replaced in my 2008 FX4 with a engine from Accurate Engines. Since I live only 1 mile from them they said that they could install the engine for me. TOTAL cost for the engine and install was only $4250. And this includes a 100,000 mile warranty.
That's a damn good deal.
That’s a good deal
You don't ALWAYS have to replace this engine. But there are so many flaws with it, it can cost as much to replace that many parts as to just get a reman. It's a good idea to replace all the roller followers any time major work is being done. And everyone reports it's almost impossible to change the plugs without breaking some of them. FordTechMakuloco has many videos on this....
Proper oil changes are key on these. We have a 2011 expedition with the "dreaded" 5.4 3v, over 200k on the original engine. What kills these is cheap oil and late oil changes.
I have 195,000 or so miles on my 2004 F150 with the 5.4 3V. I've done the maintenance and used Motorcraft oil and filters. No issues.
This truck looks clean and well kept and the family seems attached for what ever reason. Which makes you wonder if the owner who kept the truck so clean and is so attached, would also be slacker in changing the oil and filter? Doesn't make sense.
My 2005 Ford F-150 5.4 3v has almost 300000 and still running very strong. A good maintenance is the key.
The 5.4 wasn’t “dreaded” from 2008-2011.
What would you consider cheap oil?
I have a 2005 I bought new, always maintained. At 75K started to get the start-up rattle, which I wasn't happy about. Took it to FordTech, both timing chain tensioners gaskets were leaking. I had the entire timing replaced, roller followers with high volume oil pump. Cost $3000, runs like a champ now with 93K. Figure I'll get another 15 years out of it.
Good luck 🤞
FordTechMakuloco?
@@turf7empest Yes
@@chenny1182Still happy with the results? Considering doing the same.
@@jjdub35 Yes it’s still running fine. Got 106k on it now, which I suppose isn’t a lot since I had the work done. But I don’t put that many miles on it annually and I do hope it lasts another 14 years. FordTech does an excellent job.
Very interesting, Wizard. A person I worked with had one with the Ecotech V6. At 50,000 miles the dreaded tick showed up. Luckily under warranty. It was a warranty claim for $10,000 Canadian, and that was not for a new engine. Another friend had an F-150 with the 3 valve 5.4. He spent over $4,000 trying to fix the old engine. He finally just traded it in. Great taste in cars, he got a Jeep with the death wabble.
Ecoboost! Ecotec is GM brand 😉
It's crazy to me how filming an everyday job can be so interesting and entertaining to watch. I wish I could have been there when you and Hoovie first collaborated. I bet at that moment you were thinking this guy is crazy for wanting to film you work on cars. But fast forward several years and here we are. You with a very successful busniness and RUclips channel as well as Hoovie! Great Work! AND WE HAVE TO GIVE PROPS TO MISSES WIZARD AS WELL FOR THE SUPPORT ALONG THE WAY!
@Andrew_koala 🖕🏻
either Mrs or missus.. misses; to fail to hit, reach, catch, or otherwise make contact with.
This is the same year and color as my Dad's last truck. I always loved the simple look of these trucks, and it was a fairly good truck. It's a shame he had a 5.4, he replaced the Cam Phasers himself and it blew up and he was pissed. luckily the Dealership he sold it to gave him around 10k because they must have known it was worth a lot more if they swapped the engine.
I have a 2009 with that engine. Runs perfect..why late production and I run synthetic since I bought it 5 years old with 104,000 miles. Proper maintenance is the key.
104k??? Lol well your time is almost up bud.
and you are wrong.
@@fakebrake you got lucky. 95% of the ones with proper maintenance still failed before 150k. I mean I guess that's OK for a Ford. But a 99-2006 5.3 chevy is 10x the engine. The 5.4 3valve is the absolute worst engine in history know for a fact by anybody that knows anything about vehicles. You defending that piece of shit let's me know all I need to. Lol
I'm so glad my 2004 Lincoln Navigator 5.4 liter engine is a rare 32 valve engine. I got lucky because I didn't know about this at the time of purchase. Once I did hear about this I did a vin check on mine. Yes it's the original 137k mileage engine
Yes, that was the last year for the InTech V8. Great engines also used on the first gen starting in '99
@@MrCarGuy so question I have is; is it a rare engine or easy to get specific parts for? I'm hoping you say the later. Means maybe cheaper I hope. Lol
So the 2 valve?
@@alexandersteele4212 32 divided X 8 = 4
@@alexandersteele4212 🤦♂️
Bought 2007 F150 5.4 3v Triton FX4 brand new. Always kept up regular maintenance, including oil changes every 5k miles using Motorcraft oil and filters. Still running strong with 192k miles. No sludge. There is no doubt there can be issues with these engines, but doing regular maintenance with quality parts goes a long way.
There was an F-150 for sale here in the UK at a good price, thanks to the Wizard I knew to look if it was a 5.4 3V and as it was I left it well alone. 👍
Don't walk away.
Run!
I'm surprised you would even drive F150 in Britain
Didn't even know they sold them up there
@@darthdarthbinkss They aren't sold by Ford in the UK, but some people import them
Yeah
Definitely interested in seeing the video on what caused this engine to lock up, sounds exciting digging in diagnosing it internally.
These are absolute gold that you give your honest opinion about the cars and especially about the mechanical side of the cars!
“Another one”- DJ Khaled
I like that that's good
🤣 DJ Khaled is basically 5.4 3 valve.
Garbage
@@samholdsworth420 agreed
"They don't you to succeed" 🤣
Lmao
Looking forward to see the disassembled engine!
If you want to know the real deal behind these 3v engines (5.4 and 4.6 pretty much identical) visit the FordTechMakuloco channel. Ford has made many updates to the internal parts on these engines and are quite reliable if you've made all the updates. You can fix these without a whole engine swap if you catch it in time - don't ignore ticking/tapping noises and if you crack into it make all the upgrades and drive it for 300k.
True.🎯
It's so much easier for shops to just swap engines that don't know how to fix things properly.
I watch his channel when he drops a video. Cheap parts and poor diagnostics is what kills these engines. The upgrade parts do make them better than when new. My dad had an 08 with the 5.4 3V. It had the timing set and lifter put in it. It ran well until totaled out by an 18 wheeler.
Thank you - his channel is excellent regarding the 5 4 ~ I appreciate you sharing this gold
I had a 2004 with the stupid step side bed and the extended cab. Between the imminent demise of the 5.4 (after Cam Phaser actuator replacements), coils, needing plugs and the aforementioned body style, it got traded for a 2018 3.5LTT Plat. Love it, but still have the cam phasers. Want the 7.3, a good 'ol push rod. Can't wait to see what I had a near miss on...
It’s actually a really nice truck. Worth fixing in todays market. I’d detail it, fix the rust, and drive it for another 100k with a new engine.
I don't think it's worth it if it cost 7000 to replace the engine 3-4k maybe
@@JDMHaze You clearly haven’t seen todays truck prices then
@@waterloo123100 used?
5.0 coyote gen 2 or 3 maybe
@@JDMHazeyou can find a used 150 or any pick up now for 15k minimum with decent miles 150k +. Just do ur du diligence
There is a pickup truck shortage at dealers right now, but plenty of F-150 3 valves available. Nice looking trucks too.
I liked my 2005 5.4 L but I'm glad I got rid of it before it had any problems.
You are smart. People think they are saving a lot of money keeping a car forever. They probably are saving some, but it’s not worth the headache.
The 2005 expedition has the same problem
Change the oil WHEN YOU’RE SUPPOSED TO and use a high quality oil. Sold mine with 242,000 on the clock and it was running great! It regularly towed a boat, 28’ camper, and a trailer with atvs. I’d still be driving it had I not found such a good deal on a new one in ‘18.
I had one of these for a company truck. I was religious about changing the oil, and it was the most reliable truck I ever had.
I see these type videos and they scare me but I change my oil religiously and honestly baby my pickup. It’s an ‘08 with 110k(I bought it in 18 with. 60k). It’s my daily driver and I pull a 30ft travel trailer as well. Knowing that some have no issues gives me a little hope.
@@IraqVet0608 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum every 5k miles with Motorcraft filter. Truck will go for many miles!
2004 Navigator with 204,000 miles on the clock. only dead right now because of the dreaded Fuel pump relay. other than that runs like a top - normally...
Yep.....248000 on my 06......runs like a champ...... original engine.. transmission and rear end.......
I have a 2009 f150 with a 5.4 3v triton and it has 277000 miles on it she still runs strong never had an issue with it I really think the later ones are actually pretty good but the older ones not so much
I have a 09 Lariat, 5.4 with 135K on it. I have been good about oil changes and drove it like a car, though it was a work vehicle. When I liquidated the company I kept it as an occasional use truck. So far, so good.
Do you go with high milage full synthetic oil with 277k miles?
@@hydrobuu yeah I did I use 5w30 full synthetic every 3000 miles
@@Paramount531 yeah it should go a lot longer
Recently wrecked my '02 with the 5.4L 2V, I was rear-ended at a stop light and it was deemed a total loss (airbags went off). That was one reliable truck, had 210k miles without any rust or mechanical issues. Started shopping for a new truck and there were a lot of nice, cheap 11th gens. However, I decided to completely avoid the 5.4L 3V, but still wanted a V8. Overpaid for a '12 with decent miles, just to avoid the first gen of the 5.0L as well.
Oh man. I've had many of those in my bay with seized plugs. Decarb, 3/8 impact to bump them out while warm. Never broke one since doing it that way. Yeah, once those piles sludge up, they are done. Most customers didn't buy engines, they towed them away.
Mr wizard I just purchased a 2006 e350;superduty it’s extremely clean rust free to the point the factory paint is on the frame rails this van sat and lived near the desert California and a sheriff used it to pick up prisoners . It has the and spot light if one peas to escape I assume or maybe illegal crossing the border . It runs perfect not a a hitch perfect they even sent me the oil change service manual it’s perfect . I looked at the damper and notice it was a little larger gap from the timing cover I have not taken a crow bat to check if there is any thrust bushing play I seen that was another nightmare . Anyway I really like the van but I want to be serious is this a nightmare about to happen I have had a 12 k offer so I guess you would say jump in that and run
As a owner of a 5.4 3v with 200k+ miles on it. For some reason I just like to hear Car Wizard talk about how bad it is. lol
My 09 broke at 233,000 with fantastic record of maintenance. I guess God doesn't like me?
I'm almost at 300k with no issues and have the 06 F250 it's our work truck too
Literally was thinking about making this comment a month ago. Now our navigator very likely will need a new motor.
I have an 09 F150 5.4 3v with 260 k mi, some low rattle at idle, some occasional off-idle rattle which goes away when I rev it up, but no loud ticks. Idles great. Uses no oil. Was a fleet work truck with spotty maintenance. I may pull the pan to see if there are tensioner pieces in the oil pump pickup. Its sister truck is at 300 k mi with no problems.
You gave 0 info regarding how long your previous motor lasted since motors aren’t invincible
My dad had a 2006 or 2005 3v 5.4 f150 and by some miracle it made it to 260,000 miles. It’s been gone for a few months but by the end (before traded it) it was running on 6 cylinders and was at the end of its life. Good truck up until then. Well taken care of just had it life cycle. Funny thing is it kept eating spark plugs up and getting them really fouled up. We never looked into the issue farther cause we knew the truck was just done.
I'm not sure why the car wizard is so against the cam phaser/timing chain fix. My 2006 f150 ran okay after the fix.. for about two hours. It burnt to the ground.. That was an expensive mistake.
No one wants to spend the engine tear down hours, for something that's a Ford product and prone to not fixing the issue. You can replace everything and still have small oil passages, it's part of why it's a junk engine.
😂
You’re presentation skills have improved such an impressive amount since you started out. It’s inspiring! Thanks for all the great content
A coworker has a 2010 F-150 with the 5.4L that he bought new. It has 347,000 miles. I guess they got it figured out by 2010.
I hear stuff all over the spectrum with those engines it’s a flip of a coin whether or not it’ll blow up and that’s kinda scuffed
When they changed the body style in 09 they also heavily went through the 5.4 to the point where it didn’t share much with the 04-08 trucks. If you pause the video and look at the list most of the trucks were 05-07
06 and up and are the " better" motors...
Alot of it has to do with maintenance too. A good schedule with frequent oil changes with quality synthetic and a good filter make all the difference with these.
I'd put a 1.4 turbo engine from a Jetta Volkswagen in that Truck so it can pull everything
When I bought mine 6 years ago from the dealer it had new phasers, tensioners, chains, the list goes on all done before it hit their lot with the paperwork included from the dealer. I have religiously changed the oil and used 5w30. So far so good at 45k miles later. I'm currently at 182k miles but often wonder when will it blow.
I'm in the same boat with 213K. I'm happy to know others do 5w-30
Curious to see that timing chain and how lumpy the actual links are , BIGGEST PROBLEM THAT THESE 3v ENGINES FACE IS THE AFTERMARKET TIMING CHAIN KITS TECHS INSTALL , the dorman phasers and other aftermarket brand phasers are junk and the chains are way more rough edged than the actual Ford timing chain, and for that very reason, it wears the guides 3-4 times faster leaving you with another timing job/new engine just only 15-20k later. If people just buy the OEM Ford timing parts the engines WILL last 200k+ as long as you maintain it. My mother had an 05 expedition with the 5.4 3v, og engine and tranny lasted 167,000 miles no major issues. Car wizard you should definitely compare the actual Ford timing chain to the aftermarket timing chain and you’ll see the difference on how much more rough edged the aftermarket chain is and that’s why these aftermarket kits destroy these engines.
Can't you just used upgraded guides?
you think 167k is something to brag about?
@@lilpoindexter who said I was bragging
@@lilpoindexter it’s 167k on an OG power train and still had plenty of life left..
@@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic ummm, what !?
In 2011, my dad bought a 2004 Ford F150 Lariat with fairly low mileage for about $14,000 (I was little at the time so I don't know the specifics). He drove that thing for a few years and then my brother drove it after that all the way on up to around 265,000 miles without too many issues until it started having cam phaser problems, then my brother sold it for cheap. It still ran though, but these trucks can be okay-ish as long as you take care of them. I personally think these trucks with the 4.6 are awesome and have aged really well.
just a little tickin? Keep on rippin!
Your 3-valve video saved me a huge headache because I was going to buy that year F-150. I guess I will be hanging on to my 2001 Ford Expedition with 250,000 miles on it. She has the Triton 5. 4 which still runs great but the truck is rusting away on me. Thanks car wizard.
Love the Weyland-Yutani shirt. Building Better Worlds!
If you have a 5.4 and have timing problems… you don’t need a new engine, check out FordTechMakuloco!! I am on 80k miles since I fixed it.
Thank you! I'm at 150k since I fixed it and purrs like a kitten.
@Livin' Large with Marc did you also do the high volume pump? I think that’s wha really does the trick.
@Livin' Large with Marc hell yeah, same here. I’m still driving the truck to this day and hopefully for much longer 🤞🏼
The 3vs are fine, they just require solid maintenance that you cannot skimp on it.
I had the 5.4 quad cam in my old falcon and I loved it.
715 recorded engines the 3v is fine really dude
715 vs the millions still on the road. Not to mention the Winstar 3.8l V6 actually has a class action lawsuit out on it.
It's crazy to see the used market appreciate on most vehicles with over 200k miles on it. I'd like to see what failed on this engine if not to satisfy curiosity but to deter others from being hosed on buying one.
I bought a 2018 F150 with 150K miles on it. Not that long ago I wouldn't even consider a vehicle with that many miles, but two things changed my mind: The very high cost of the used cars I prefer (3-4 years old, less than 60K miles), and the fact that every car I've owned in the last 20 years has gone well over 200K trouble free miles.
100K is the new 50K.
@@MrJeffcoley1 I'm still driving a 2001 Toyota 4Runner with 185k miles and a 1996 Toyota Tacoma with 395k miles. At this stage it's far cheaper to keep them going if they fail than buying a newer one.
Inflation is killing the lower and middle classes. New cars really aren’t that much more expensive. Used cars have doubled, tripled in price and they are junk. No one is selling a good one.
The price for trucks is absolutely insane but you can still find good deals if you look hard enough. I recently picked up a '99 4.8L Silverado 4x4 round body with 113K for just under $6000. Put another $1500 into maintenance stuff like changing fluids, shocks and a new steering gear box but hopefully she will be good for a long time.
Here in California I consistently see trucks that are easily 20 years old with over 200k miles going for 12-15 grand and if you want a Tacoma, Tundra or any Diesel you're looking at 20+ it's completely absurd
Hello there, I owned an 04 f150 for 6 years with the 3valve, it had the cam phaser tick the whole time I had it, I kept up on the maintenance on it better than anything else I have ever owned, but this past year it started to develop a misfire so I took it to a mechanic, and he couldn't figure it out, so when I got myself some money, I bought a toyota sequoia, sold the truck for about what I paid for the toyota, but I do miss it. I did want to put a new engine in it, but didn't have the money.
glad to hear they upgraded engineering flaw!1 Makes replacement a no brainer.
BTW~ trimming back the beard looks much better!! Cheers
Have a 15' and 16' Ford F450 with the v10. Both Ford dealer serviced. Both engines failed before 100k miles. $13,000 each to replace.
The wizard came in his street clothes just to warn us about the perils of the 3 valve Triton
Had an 04 3 valve. please read because its crazy. My dad bought this truck. The truck was grandpa owned, barley any rust ( in the north east) and only had 132k on it. The timing chain came out of alignment due to the cam phasers going bad. this caused the timing chain to chip a hole in the timing chain cover. The serpentine belt then got shredded through the hole into the motor. The crazy part was was that the motor was still able to idle after this process. Mechanic said the motor was a total loss due to the little bits of serpentine placed throughout it. Put a new motor in the truck 7k later. now its a lawn ornament because the fuel pump went out and my father cant bring himself to spend the money to get it fixed, and rightfully so. The chassis they put that motor into were great, the motor really really fucked over a lot of people. if you have a 3v sell asap. its a time bomb waiting to blow your money.
But isn't it the roller followers that are actually killing these things? Where those replaced with the updated roller follower version when they did the phasers/timing/pump on this one? FordTechMakuloco seems to make a living off these engines and his repair/replace process seems to be getting the job done (at least based on customer reviews).
That guy is a like Ford wizard.
your absolutely correct
ftm is literally the jesus of ford mechanics
FTM puts down many failures of this engine to owner neglect in changing oil.
I definitely wish I would have learned about switching over from 5w20 to 5w30 sooner. At 171k I'm just starting to hear the ticking noise coming from 2 & 3 (it runs buttery smooth otherwise). I got it at 110k and have been keeping up on the oil changes with quality synth, but I have no records for the previous owner. FTM is getting his hands on it next week for all of the recommended services.
I have my F150 2004 like this one........with 150 000 miles and it work perfect.....I was aware long time ago about these problem......
1) Spark plug problem
2) Manyfold craking
3)Chance oil each 3000 miles...or (4) times a year
My truck is a work horse and I still make alot of money with my business.....and I don't care to spend $15K for repair (deductible on business anyway)
I'm in Montreal QC Canada....I'm willing to go down at your place to replace the motor and transmission when it will be the time
Shops would rather replace the engine than repair it, because repairs have a risk associated with it. Since the shop doesn’t care if you are spending $7000, why wouldn’t they recommend a replacement engine, it’s less potential headache for them.
You Nailed it!🎯
With $700 in genuine Ford parts, that includes an oil pump upgrade for more oil pressure, 8 hours of labor will take care of the timing chain, tensioners, upgraded roller rockers, and vvt solenoids. It is a tedious job, but no more expensive than a timing chain job on many other cars.
The trick is to keep an ear out for chain slapping/rattle due to the failed tensioners.
So, if DYI it is $700 or so . . . totally refreshed and good for 200K+. If done by a shop, yes . . . they must be meticulous or face a lot of warranty work. Costs, about $3500.
And that’s a bad thing?
This particular engine (and MANY others) has serious design problems that a shop cannot fix. It needs to be rebuilt and highly modified by a place that has the knowledge and tools to do this kind of thing. The best a regular repair shop can do is put a very expensive band aid on it, and it will fail again very soon. In this case it is not so much a risk as it is a sure thing. You would be doing a temporary repair on an engine that you KNOW is going to fail.
@@geraldscott4302 I can't agree more. When I find a car with a part which is defective or has a very high error rate, then I don't understand the logic of replacing the defective part with another defective part. Instead I find a way to replace the part with a properly designed part, or get rid of the vehicle. I also note the manufacturer and avoid them in the future.
I’m happy to hear that you use Powertrain Products engines. I just had my 5.4L 3V triton replaced in a 2005 F150. They have great reviews. I’m at about 500 miles and so far it’s great.
Wow - Wizard has put 16 engines into this one truck! That has to be a record!
And they call ME "Mr. Literal!" LOL!
i mean it wouldn't surprise me since the 3v is the worst gasser that ive seen from ford
@@braydenjames561 allow me to introduce the 3.8l V6, which actually has a class action lawsuit out on it.
At 3:35 you said the engine was is sludged up, that's because he didn't change the oil at regular good intervals and didn't use fully symethetic oil LIKE I DID, and I'm still getting good clean predictible driving mileage out of it at 364,000 miles usiing Royal Purple fully synthetic oil with a Wix 10050 filter. Never had any engine work done to it except I did change the VCT's which was so easy to do, like easier than changing spark plugs on a lawn mower. With that any miles on my truck, I also never had any work done on my transmission except proper fluid changes and filter changes, I think at 100,000 miles. The 3v 5.4 motor is a wonderful motor if you change the oils frequently.
I know people personally who have 300k+ on 5.4 3 valves and they run perfectly. I'm a contrarian but I honestly believe if you are religious about maintenance these engines do ok. Especially the last couple years of them. At this point, the price of used trucks isn't even worth it. I would put a replacement in this in a second. I'd never buy one used though and I'd be wary of the mass rebuilders.
this is correct ive seen people sell them with high mileage original motors that sounds mint heck mines an 05 5.4 3v with 170k miles runs like a champ, i hear they lock up cause of faulty oil pressure and poor maintenance
@@destructoidx99 They're very sensitive to long oil change intervals and sludge build-up.
@@destructoidx99 poor maintenance causes the oil flow issues. The pressure is fine it's just stuck behind a bunch of sludge. I've rebuilt quite a few, had one that the chains were rattling because the sludge packed the tensioners completely solid.
I have an 04' F150 5.4 3v and have over 200k. I love my truck and it never breaks. I've been meticulous with the maintenance. I have an awesome mechanic here in Illinois as well🙂
I'd put a 24v 4.6 in it, good performer and a fraction of the cost of a 5.4, not nearly as many issues as the 5.4 but you can get similar power and torque out of it
You can also put a 5.4L DOHC 32V Intech V8 out of an 04 Lincoln Navigator or even the 6.8L SOHC 3V Triton V10 in it as well.
Would a Coyote fit? If it does fit and can be swapped for 7k,it makes sense.
@@CJColvin I prefer the 24v 4.6 as it's a better engine option than the InTech and the V10 as it's more plentiful and cheaper than the InTech and V10 engines and they make bolt on supercharger kits for them so you can turn your old truck into a sleeper
How will this effect the check engine light and emissions components, many people live in a state where if the check engine light is on the truck won't pass inspection, no cats, no inspection and then it can't be registered. If there is a viable way to do this and make everything function properly where all the monitors are set and ready at the time of the inspection then I would say this is a really good idea.
@@chazzcoolidge2654 It would with modifications to the engine mount but it might be a nightmare getting the old chassis to jive with the new engine
Guess I got a unicorn. I have an 05 5.4 3v at just under 300k miles and it’s been great. No rust anywhere, some dings and scratches. Pulled dump trailers packed to the gills with wood and steel from a demo job and regularly pull a big 72” deck Badboy mower and have the bed full of tools with minimal sagging and no mods. I’ve changed plugs, coils, tires, lights, and fluids but nothing other than those few regular wear and tear consumable type things.
My 06 F150 5.4 is still running strong! It tows my camper fine and has been with me from North Dakota, to Washington State, to Louisiana, and now Missouri! DON’T JINX ME WIZARD!
I have a 06 super duty 250 that I tow a 37 foot fifth wheel with. I don't need the jinx either.
Watch Wes Work has a good video tearing down one of these just when the clicking started. He showed and explained that by the time the ticking starts, often much of the oil pressure to the top of the engine is just gone due to the way the engine is designed.
He also said that many ford trucks since whatever year have an oil pressure gauge that actually is just a switch where if you have more than something like 7psi oil pressure it goes to the middle, and if you don't it goes all the way to the left. Basically just a very misleading oil pressure light. Not to mention the actual oil pressure sensor is on the bottom of the engine
It seems like the reason you have to just replace the whole engine when this problem occurs is because it has been starved of oil on the top end for quite some time
You dont have to replace the whole engine unless its dropped a valve. Just upgrade the timing and oil system with better parts =300,000 miles.
IMO 5w30 should be used in these trucks instead of dealer recommended 5w20. Engine runs smoother with 5w30
And you have to be RELIGIOUS with oil changes; I bet most if not ALL the people saying they haven’t had any problems have likely been changing their oil at 3000 miles on the dot EVERY SINGLE TIME.
I would run 0w20 to get that oil moving fast as possible. I run 0w40 in my 5.3 with 140k on it to keep the lifters quiet
@@dbrandon4528 depends on the climate you are driving in. If you drive in a climate where the temperature goes below freezing sometimes then 0wxx oil is the best. If you drive in hot climates then you should not use 0wxx oil!
Normally I would agree. I use 10w40 in my Crown Vic 4.6L 2 valve that the book says to use 5w30 in. BUT, it does not have VVT. Engines that have VVT, like the 5.4 must have the recommended oil viscosity, or the VVT will not work properly.
@@Shabbe02 not true.
Love your shirt....my buddie's just pulled the oil cap to check his level on his Triton...there was some yellow soupy crud on the bottom of the cap, and in the neck.....I have never seen that before...
Condensation, normal
Source: seen it on a vehicle I had from 150k miles to 350k miles with no coolant/oil issues
main cause of these engines going to hell is poor maintenance. so many people and shops nowadays think you can go 7500 or 10k miles on oil changes. that is pure stupidity and laziness especialy with modern engines with complex timing chains and active cam timing/cylinder deactivation. oil changes are dirt cheap, engines are very expensive. i do 3k miles even with synthetic i dont care what the manufacturer says the oil can go, they only care the engine lasts long enough to get out of warranty.
I agree, relying on past and present oil monitoring systems is foolish, I'm old school 2-99s one 4.2 V6 two wheel drive, one 4.6 V8 four-wheel drive for winter Dura blend change every 5,000 miles. ✌️
They will eventually fail even with proper maintenance. I’ve heard of it myself. I knew someone that had a 2005 Expedition that had a 5.4 3 valve and they still had to replace the cam phasers and the timing chain and it’s had regular 5000 mile oil changes on it. It did last longer than many other 3 valve 5.4 liter engines though.
@@atx-cvpi_99 5000 is still too much IMO on these cuckoo-clock modern engines. the older the oil gets the less it protects and more apt it is to burnoff. i work mostly on Subarus and have seen way too many engines 2 or 3 quarts low after a 5k oil change interval. and then even if the oil can go 5k or more can the filter?? or is it gone into bypass mode and sending unfiltered oil through the engine. 3k oil change is cheap insurance. my mothers 2006 outback has always had 3k changes using Shell Rotella T and it was spotless inside when i did valve cover gaskets at 280k
I’d recommend looking at FordTechmakuloco as the authority on Ford 5.4 3v. Not all of these need new engines. Some are properly fixed with phasers and full timing kit. There are tests to see if it makes more sense to go full engine.
Not worth the gamble in my shop, or the other 715 listed shops in the video. If it doesnt work out, you just burned up the customers cash for nothing, and STILL needs a new engine. Not on my watch.
@@CarWizard Really, not worth doing a visual and compression test??????? WOW
@@CarWizard fair enough, you are being up front with your customers which is best based on your experience with the motor. Which is why they came to you. I just wanted to mention there are proven tests to see if the engine would make a good candidate to fix. Compression, oil pressure at certain rpm, and I believe a scan tool to show variable timing behavior. The other youtuber I linked has a ton of info on these (and other Ford). True even he swaps the ones that aren't good candidates.
The fixed 5.4s are alright. But I'd rather swap a 5.0 or a 4.6 into it
@Self Made Auto Orrrr, add a 5.9 Cummins and lift it at least 2 inches with some beef cake tires
@@jakebkilgore2086 Or maybe even the new 7.3L Godzilla V8, or the 6.2L BOSS V8, or even a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it.
My 5.0 has been great
4.6 all day. Dead reliable engine
@@ttgk8506 If you can get one from an early newer body style f-150, then it's perfect
One of my favorite channels, entertaining and informative. Looking forward to more on this truck, my brother had a F 250 and it was a good driver. Very comfortable at highway speeds, could tow just about anything. He sold it and got a newer one, he's had good luck with it so far.
HERE’S THE TRUTH
I’ve had four of them, all 4x4’s, and I bought all of them for less than 10k combined, because mechanics keep ranting on them. I replaced the, plugs, rockers, timing chains, cam phasers, solenoids, oil pump and exhaust manifolds on all of them; for less than 1k each. However, a mechanic couldn’t do it for that price, if they wanted to stay in business. It’s a horrible nightmare of a job, plus I’m a farmer / rancher, I already had most of the tools, and believe me I’m already accustomed to working on stupid things engineers do. IF you can find a (real mechanic) willing to do the engine swap, have them do it and enjoy the warranty, because it will get used.
Excellent comments.
There's no way you replaced all of that for 1k.
@@nolife1199 I’m thinking more like $1600 in parts. Unless he uses dorman or generic
You sound like a typical VW Passat owner. "I've had 10 VW Passats and they are the best, most reliable cars. As soon as I hear weird noises I sell it and get another one." lmao
I have one of these. It’s an 06 2wd. It’s on its 3rd salvaged engine at $2500 each. Now it cranks over but won’t run. I subscribed so I could see the internals of this engine when you get it torn down.
I’ve personally had two of those trucks with that motor in it both made it to 500,000 miles before I sold them in perfect running order. The key to keeping those motors running is to run a full synthetic oil and high-grade filter and change every 3 to 5000 miles without fail!
Oil is cheap; engines are expensive!
Perfect maintenance like that is how they last.
Those tiny oil passages get clogged with just one missed oil change and the count down clock begins.
Same, I had one with 4.500.000 miles on it in perfect running condition. /s
I agree. However, the fact that these engines are so prone to fail catastrophically if strict maintenance isn't adhered to... well it speaks to the overall poor design. We have all missed an oil change by 1000 miles or so. It happens. Modern synthetic oils are so good these days that most any other engine can wait to 7500 miles as an oil change interval, if not used for regular towing or extreme duty and conditions. This particular instance, like the 6.0 diesel, is an example of a really bad design and as consumers, we should be able to count on better reliability.
Yeah you can tell by the condition of the rest of this truck it was just neglected to death.
My 04 park avenue had werid transmission problems when I had bought it. I replaced all solenoids in the transmission, fixed all codes. Took it to Kansas city back to Colorado springs no problem. Since then I have added a shift kit to.my 4t65e transmission it has helped it even more. Sometimes winging it, can get u by no problem.
The funny thing is I know several mechanic friends who think these are great trucks, lol.
They made the power of the 5.4L 4V and got the mileage of the 4.6L 2V. But God they had lots of internal issues.
Run Archoil 9100 every oil change in your oil to prevent sludge build up. Put seafoam in the oil 50-100 miles before oil change and get the oil really hot on a long drive. It works wonders for keeping sludge at a minimum. Works great on my 6.0L Powerstroke Excursion...
It seems like a common theme with Ford engines. In Australia and Europe the Land Rover Discovery 3 2.7lt V6 diesel and the Discovery 4 3.0lt V6 diesel are both well known for complete engine failure.
That 3.0 liter diesel engine is the same exact engine in the 2018-2021 Ford F-150.
Wow. I didn’t know these engines were that bad. I hated getting rid of my 2007 F-150 with the 5.4L. I drove it until it had 280k miles, which is when it was giving me trouble. That’s when I got rid of it. Block was solid. I only really changed the gasket to the oil filter housing. I often wished I had kept it and redid the engine before it died. I guess I got lucky.
Mine is at 292k miles on all original internal engine parts. Just like any truck, take care of it and it will take care of you. The GM dod lifters are worse than this issue.
Interesting how wizard hates them but ive seen many that lasted a long time, i wonder what the real issue is?
Still wouldn't happen on properly designed engines. The InTech variants had no such issues
He's a Chevy guy so if he gets a chance to bash a ford he takes it
@@ericshaffer3092 they all do it
I have a 2006 f150 5.4 and have always changed the oil on time. I disconnected the 2 VCT valves and live with worse gas mileage. 208,000 miles if it goes some more I'm happy. Lots of rust though but I'm cheap i just put some strong duct tape over the rust holes and rust paint over the tape )
Other issues I fixed [but i drive the heck out of my work truck] = broken tranny [tried pulling a heavier truck out of the snow covered under warranty] + new alternator + broken rear passenger side leaf spring + broken driveshaft u-joint.
I’ve got an 06 Explorer 4x4 with the 4.6 3v with 191k miles and ZERO evidence of cam phaser issues. I don’t know if the previous owners dealt with it or not but I couldn’t find evidence of that in its service history. I’d like to know the Wizards opinion on the 4.6 3v vs the 5.4 3v. It’s my spare vehicle/winter beater and it will probably serve me well in that capacity. I’ll be happy to make it to 300k.
the 4.6 doesn't really get talked about like this because everyone knows the 4.6 is toyota tier reliable when taken care of. as long as the transmission is in good health it should make 300K.
I think the only real worry is the 5.4L 3V, non the 5.4L 2V or the 4.6L of any kind.
@@jorgey4 So is the 5.4, do oil changes at the proper time with quality oil and you'll have no issues. These "oiling issues" are all from people doing oil changes once every 10k miles or so after the oil has started to slug and clog the galleys.
We have an 07 F150 with the Triton. Searched for 6 months before I found it used with 106k miles motor was never opened up, all original well cared for.
Truck had the oil changed regularly every 3-4k miles since new and we continue to change it using 5-20 dino oil. Truck just reached 173,000 miles engine still runs like a sewing machine no ticks. Tows my Street rod too. Most of the failures are attributed to lack of maintenance and Ford made so many of them when they show up in shops broken it seems like a high failure rate but not really. I will agree that Triton engines are hypersensitive to clean thin oil to ensure proper lubrication.
I would replace the engine and keep the truck! That generation of Ford is really nice. They are good engines if you take care of them.
I was a hoovie guy but i quickly got to following you and the mrs. We wish you the best from metro detroit. Cant wait for the yacht vids in the spring! Love yall! The soreks
Maybe One Question for those who do own these 5.4L Triton V8's...
Is it Possible to do an Engine Swap From a 5.4L to the More Reliable 4.6L Triton V8, since those were still available around that time?
If not, what would be the reason?
Why not just put an ls in it?
Wouldn’t be a fail. My 4.6L F150 runs fine w/ 5 speed…. Really the drivetrain was the only reason I bought it.
Or just change your oil
I would put a 5.0 coyote in the truck.
@@waterloo123100 Nope, still will fail, just takes a little longer.
Currently the owner of a 2007 Ford Expedition with the 5.4 3v. Oil changes performed every 4000 miles and transmission fluid changed every 25,000to 30,000 miles. Had the timing chain, cam tensioners and phasers changed at 192,000. Still rolling strong. The only reason I still have this vehicle is for the reasons stated by the wizard. Prices for vehicles, both used and new, have skyrocketed!! I will hold onto this vehicle if no other major engine issues come about but rest assure, my next vehicle will not have a Triton engine. Keep up the good work Wiz!!
Should try turning it over in reverse, if it spins backwards then one of the roller followers failed, got pushed off the lash adjuster, then the keepers came off of a valve spring and it dropped a valve. That's another common failure on these.
It's funny that the Wizard brought up truck values. My Trans went out on my 03 Envoy over the summer and I have been looking to buy a used pickup to replace it in the last couple months and I have just decided to get my Envoy's Trans rebuilt. I can't even look at a truck for less than 20 grand that's worth owning in my area. Never in my life would I have considered a transmission rebuild on a modern vehicle but I couldn't replace my Envoy today for anywhere near the 4000 dollars I paid for it 5 years ago. Times are insane.
Best motor ever! 226K miles and going strong. You should watch Fordmakuloco channel. He fixes a lot of them.
my client's 04 F150 has the 3V 5.4 with 220K miles. the top end is ticking. it's probably the roller followers like the Fordtechmakuloco videos show.
I really don't understand how a Ford 5.4 "locks up".. if you change the oil on time and don't ignore the timing chain components and followers it should run 200-300K.
bah just keep driving it
To bad for the owner, the truck looks good. Prices for new and used trucks are through the roof! I think a engine change would be the way to go. Just my opinion.
I had a 2001 2v that was locked up. Biggest problem was getting the torque converter off. I finally dropped the oil pan, started loosening the rod bolts, and when it let loose I was able to spin it over. What a pain in the butt. Very hard vehicles to work on in my opinion.
Also, my used one, which came out of a wreck, lasted about 3 years and then a headgasket blew at about 180,000 miles. And, didn’t they have spark plug blowing out issues on the early ones, then the late ones had breaking off spark plugs? Not my favorite engines for sure. Loved the truck tho.
I’m a mechanic and I’m the Ford guy, I know my way around them 5.4s lol and I drive one to lol basically the way to keep it on the road is use decent oil and change it regularly and do spark plugs every 50 ish. Nobody did that so most of them need motors now.
I agree , the lizard is just a Chevy guy that gets to bash a ford when he's got the chance
@@ericshaffer3092 yes indeed. His bias is not great for true consumer advice.
@@ericshaffer3092 i agree that its a bit dramatic but the numbers don't lie. A good motor worth it salt should able to go longer if something like this arises.
Wizard big fan of you brother! Thanks for all the content and the boat videos are awesome. Honestly watching you is better then what they have on TV lol
these engines were updated in 2009. So the 2009-2010 5.4 f-150's are good trucks but yea they really messed up. Unacceptable.
I have an ‘08 Ram 1500 regular bed/cab RWD with the 4.7V8/6 speed manual. All the typical options wanted today. It has 40,XXX miles. No rust, no major damage. Inside of the bed with no liner looks almost new.
I paid $16,3XX new. It would probably bring that today on a dealer lot. Last year for a half ton pickup with a manual.
Can you swap a 5.0l into these?
Not quickly and not cheap. Coyotes and their cores are still very valuable.
We have a 2004 Silver Mercury Marauder with the 4.6 L DOHC engine 300HP.
It has 185,000 miles still going strong and never been apart.
I wish that you would investigate the reason the engine locked up. I’m so glad we sold our Triton engined F150 and bought a Tacoma.
I have a 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, I bought it new and it has 113,000 miles on it; being a California truck it has zero rust, and it still looks, and drives like a new truck. I keep toying with the idea of trading it in for something that gets better gas mileage, but, every time that I do consider trading it in, I run across one of these videos about how much in demand used vehicles are, and how people are wanting to keep their current vehicles on the road, and then I reconsider getting rid of my Avalanche.
It does have a couple of minor oil leaks; if I lived near the Wizzads shop, I would have him fix the leaks for me. 🙂
i wonder how the 5.0L that was introduced in 2011 has been holding up. I know the ecoboost has its problems but i haven't heard a lot about the 5.0l save a few. I currently own a 2017 5.0l
Most Ford truck engines post 2011 are good. The Ecoboost is pretty solid overall as is the 5.0. Some problems with both but overall reliable.
Ecoboost has carbon buildup on intake valves and timing chain issues. 5.0 is known for oil leaks and spark plug/ignition coil issues. Overall both are decently reliable as long as you properly maintain them.
You are good with that 5.0. Just change the oil regularly!
@@Cynsham The Gen 2 Ecoboost no longer has carbon issues as Ford moved to Direct and Port injection. The Gen 2 came out in 2017. They do have Cam Phaser issues though
@@DJR5280 Agreed.
They all don't rust, I have a 93 Chevy K1500 Cheyenne that doesn't have any rust.
But it has lived it's life in New Mexico.